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Photographic 

Sciences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  N.Y.  M580 

(716)  873-4503 


Ur 


CIHM/ICMH 

Microfiche 

Series. 


CIHM/ICMH 
Collection  de 
microfiches. 


Canadian  Institute  for  Historical  Microreproductions  /  Institut  Canadian  de  microreproductions  historiques 


1 


Technical  and  Bibliographic  Notes/Notes  techniques  et  bibliographiques 


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D 


n 


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Couverture  restaurde  et/ou  pellicul6e 


□    Cover  title  missing/ 
Ub  titre  de  couverture  manque 


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D 


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Ce  document  est  filmd  au  taux  de  reduction  indiqu6  ci-dessous. 


10X 

14X 

18X 

22X 

26X 

30X 

y 

12X 


16X 


20X 


24X 


28X 


32X 


The  copy  filmed  here  has  been  reproduced  thanks 
to  the  generosity  of: 

Mills  Memorial  Library 
McMatter  University 


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ginirositA  de: 

Mills  Memorial  Library 
McMakter  University 


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conformity  avec  les  conditions  du  contrat  de 
filmage. 


Original  copies  in  printed  paper  covers  are  filmed 
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sion, and  ending  on  the  last  page  with  a  printed 
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Les  exemplaires  originaux  dont  la  couverture  en 
papier  est  imprimAe  sent  filmAs  en  commengant 
par  le  premier  plat  et  en  terminant  soit  per  la 
dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  empreinte 
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d'impression  ou  a  illustration  et  en  terminant  par 
la  dernidre  page  qui  comporte  une  telle 
empreinte. 


The  last  recorded  frame  on  each  microfiche 
shall  contain  the  symbol  — ^-  (meaning  "CON- 
TINUED"), or  the  symbol  V  (meaning  "END"), 
whichever  applies. 


Un  des  symboles  suivants  apparaiitra  sur  la 
dernidre  image  de  cheque  microfiche,  selon  le 
cas:  le  symbols  — ^-  signifie  "A  SUIVRE",  le 
symbols  V  signifie  "FIN". 


Maps,  plates,  charts,  etc.,  may  be  filmed  at 
different  reduction  ratios.  Those  too  large  to  be 
entirely  included  in  one  exposure  are  filmed 
beginning  in  the  upper  left  hand  corner,  left  to 
right  and  top  to  bottom,  as  many  frames  as 
required.  The  following  diagrams  illustrate  the 
method: 


Les  cartes,  planches,  tableaux,  etc.,  psuvent  dtre 
film6s  A  des  taux  de  reduction  diffArents. 
Lorsque  le  document  est  trop  grand  pour  6tre 
reproduit  en  un  seul  clichA,  il  est  filmA  A  partir 
de  Tangle  supArieur  gauche,  de  gauche  A  droite, 
et  de  liaut  en  uas,  en  prenant  le  nombre 
d'images  ndcessaire.  Les  diagrammes  suivants 
illustrent  la  mAthode. 


1 

2 

3 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

AROUND    THE    WORLD 

DUE  WEST  TO  THE  FAR  EAST 


^^«p 


h 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


DUE  WEST  TO  THE  FAR  EAST 


BY 

KOBHRT  STUART  MacARTHUR 

AUTHOk   0|: 

'Current  QjustioHs  for  Tli inking  iMen"  "  The  Celestial  l.amp,''^ 
""Qtth/i  Truths  from  Qjtamt  Texts,"  *"liihle  'nij/inilttes 
ami  their  t/}llevijtnv  Interpretation,"  ''The  OlJ'/iook 
anJ  the   OU   Faith,"    "Sunday  0\'ii>ht   Lec- 
tures on  the  Land  and  the  'Hook,"  etc. 


Travel  makes  all  men  countrrmen,  makes  people  noblemen  and 
kiuiis,  every  man  tasting  of  liberty  and  dominion. 

—i,4moi  'Branson  lAlcott,  "  CoiicorJ  'ZJit/s  " 


PHILADELPHIA 

Zbe  Grltlitb  S.  'KowlanO  pxcse 

igoo 


Copyright  iQoo  by 
RoBtRT  STUART  MacARTHUR 


KIcctrotBpc&  anb  printeb  b^  tbe 
Hmerkan  Kaptiet  PubKcatJon  SocUtB 


\ 


To  the  (Members 

OI    THE 

Calvary?  JBaptlst  Cburcb 

AND 

Conorcflatlon 

H'/iosf  patuiui\  iiffi'ctiou^  atiJ  prayers 

maiic  the  tu\-nty-Jiftli  anniversary  of  the  preaent 

pastorate  possible;   ami  zcfiose  coiisiJerate  generosity 

made  the  celebration  of  that  anniversary  by 

a  trip  arotinJ  the  xtorlJ  also  possible 

THIS  VOLUME:  IS 

Bttcctionatclx}  H)c01catcD 

BY  THHIR 

Sincere  jftiend  and  (pastor 

l^ohert  Stuart  [MaetArthur 


t 


PREFACE 


Modern  facilities  for  travel  are  now  so  great 
that  the  circumnavigation  of  the  globe  is  com- 
paratively a  small  matter.     Travel  is   a   great 
educator.     A  Spanish  proverb  says,  "He  who 
would  bring  home  the  wealth  of  the  Indies,  must 
carry  the  wealth  of  the  Indies  with  him."     It  is 
certain  that  to  bring  back  a  coissiderable  amount 
of  information  the  tourist  must  carry  with  him 
no  small  degree  of  knowledge.     This  author  can 
make  no  special  claim  in  that  respect,  however 
nnich  he  may  appreciate  tlie  truth  of  the  proverb. 
But  whether  or  not  one  starts  thoroughly  fur- 
nished with  knowledge,  he  can  appreciate  the 
truth  of  Alcott's  words,  "  Traveling  is  no  fool's 
errand  to  him  who  carries  Jiis  eves  and  itinerarv 
with  him." 

An  enormous  amount  of  work  in  travel,  read- 
ing, observing,  and  writing  was  put  into  the  five 
months  occupied  in  making  this  journey;  that 
much  can  be  said  with  absolute  trutli  and  with 
equal  frankness.  The  Calvary  Church  gener- 
ously allowed  a  year  for  the  trip ;  but  a  senst  of 
duty  to  the  work  left  behind  forbade  the  full  ac- 
ceptance of  the  kind  offer. 

There  is  some  gain,  however,  in  seeing  how 
much  can  be  done  in  five  months.     Jules  Verne 

vii 


vui 


PREFACE 


was  daring  in  his  story  of  a  trip  around  the 
world  in  eighty  days ;  but  with  the  opening  of 
the  Trans-Siberian  Railway  the  journey  may  be 
made,  with  but  little  fatigue  and  equally  little 
risk,  in  thirty-three  days. 

This  volume  would  have  appeared  sooner  but 
for  a  disastrous  fire  which  necessitated  delay ; 
but  it  has  been  thought  wise  to  allow  the  text  to 
remain  as  it  was  originally  written.  The  author 
indulged  in  some  rather  bold  prophecies  "egard- 
ing  the  relation  of  Hawaii  to  the  United  States, 
and  also  touching  other  matters ;  and  it  is 
strangely  interesting  to  see  how  literally  history 
has  fulfilled  these  predictions. 

If  the  reader  can  get  any  part  of  the  enjoy- 
ment out  of  this  trip  which  the  writer  had  in 
making  the  journey,  investigating  historical  facts, 
and  recording  his  observations,  the  reader  will 
not  have  read,  nor  the  writer  have  traveled  and 
written,  in  vain. 

The  Author. 

New  York,  Calvary  Study,  Aug.  i,  1900. 


I 


CONTENTS 


..IIAPTBR  ^^,_„ 

I.  The  Start i 

A  (Jlimpse  of  Chicago— Salt  Lake  City— Our  I5ap- 
tist  Work— Some  Other  Matters— What  About  Mor- 
monistn  ? 

II.   Ogdkn  to  San  Francisco 15 

Oases  in  the  Desert- San  Francisco— A  'I'riji  to 
Oakland— A  Glimpse  of  Chinatown— A  Meeting  of 
Brethren. 

III.  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu 27 

The  Passengers— Xearing  the  Islands— In  Hono- 
lulu— A  Busy  Sunday. 

IV.  Visiting  the  Volcano 3^ 

Molokai— Other  Islands—Hawaii— Arriving  at  Hiio 
— The  Crater  of  Kilauea. 

V.    HiLO    AND    THE    IsLANDS 52 

Return  to  Ililo — Sunday  in  Hiio — Sensitive  Points 

This  and  That. 

VI.   Honolulu  Again 6e 

The  lolani  Palace— Buildings,  Schools,  and  Parks— 
The  Climate — Hawaii  Americanized. 

VII.   Hawaiian  History 77 

The  Native  Race— Foreign  Influence — Reactions — 
The  Revolution— Establishment  of  the  Republic- 
Royalist  Revolt. 

VIII.  The  Hawaiian  Future 53 

Future  of  the  Natives— The  Bishop  Museum  —  "  The 
Glorious  Fourth  "—The  Hawaiian  "Fourth." 

IX.   Religious  Development  of  Hawaii  .    .     105 
Obookia — Some  Missionaries — Foreign  Churches. 

ix 


V 

i 


CONTENTS 


X.   At  Ska  Acain ii6 

'I'lio  Sliip  and  rassengcrs — The  Chinese  Steerage — 
Mid-ocean  Taslinies — Crossing  the  Line — Arriving 
at  Vokuhania. 

XI.  Japanese  History 131 

Early  Japan — Introduction  of  Catholicism — Over- 
tluow  of  the  Jesuits — Opening  of  the  Country — 
Various  Items. 

XII.  A  Sunday  in  Yokohama 146 

The  Jinrikisha — Visiting  Churches — Some  Fine  In- 
stitutions— A  Glimpse  of  Vokohania. 

XIII.  Japan's  Ancient  Places 157 

Striking  Contrasts — A  Typhoon — Kamakura — 
Northward  to  Nikko. 

XIV.  To  THE  "Eastern  Capital"   ....     170 

off  for  Karuizawa — A  Glimpse  of  Tokyo — Asakusa 
— Back  to  Vokohama. 

XV.   Across  Three  Seas 180 

Leaving  Vokohama — A  Visit  to  Arima — Through 
the  Inland  Sea — OIT  for  Hong  Kong. 

XVI.   Japan's  Progress 191 

Japanese  Missions — The  School  Question — Several 
Japans — Passports — Some  Japanese  Words. 

XVII.   Religion  and  Morals 202 

Native  Religion — Lack  of  Morality — Work  of  Prot- 
estant Missionaries — Difficulties  of  the  Mission- 
aries— Up  to  1890. 

XVIII.   Peculiarities  of  Japan 213 

Cheap  I>iving — Diminutive  People — Practically 
Slaves — Politeness — Japanese  Handicaps. 

XIX.   The  Gibraltar  of  the  East  ....     226 

Hong  Kong  Harbor — The  Capital  City — Charac- 
teristic Spots — Three-Century-Old  Macao. 


.     ii6 


131 


146 


157 


170 


I  So 


191 


202 


COx\TEx\TS  xi 

XX.    A  Nick  of  China 2-8 

Nearing  Kwang-tuny— llie  Wallt-d  City— Streets  of 
Canton — Chief  .Sights. 

XXI.   More  About  China 252 

Chinese  Traits— The  Massacres— Leaving  Honu 
Js.ong — Orientals  Aboard, 

XXII.    SiNCJAI'ORK ^^, 

A  Floating  Home— Half- way  Around  the  World— 
1  he  Capital  of  the  Straits  Settlements— ']  he  Chinese 
Agani— Tropical  Heat. 

XXIII.  Penanc;  and  Cevi.on 276 

Penang— On  the  Indian  Ocean— A  Dilemma— The 
Island  of  Ceylon— The  Mahawanso— The  Island 
reople  To-day, 

XXIV.  Cities  of  Cevlon 29  > 

The  Trip  to  Kandy— Glimpses  of  Colombo— A  Com- 
parison. 

XXV.    "Indika" .302 

No  India— The  Count  y  Described— A  Rich  Conti- 
nent—  1  he  Government. 

XXVI.   Conquests  of  India ^jc 

The  Aborigines— The  Greek  Period— Modern  Con- 
tacts—Great Britain  in  Control— Religions  and  Peo- 
ples. 

XXVII.   Calcutta 32^ 

India's  Capital— The  City  of  Palaces— Serampore. 
XXVIII.   Benakes,  The  Holy  Citv -.40 

Poverty  Amid  Plenty— Penares— A  Strategic  Point 
— Comforts  of  Travel. 

XXIX.   Ganges  Cities ^eg 

Allahabad  —  Jubbulpore  —  Cawnpore  Memorials  — 
Ihe  Sepoy  Mutiny— British  Retribution, 


'i: 


XU 


CONTKNTS 


XXX.    LrcKNow 375 

The  City  of  tlio  Mutiny — Sir  Henry  Havelock — The 
Sikanchira  Maj^h — I.t-ssons  of  the  Mutiny. 

XXXI.    Dklhi 389 

Seven  Delhis — Palaces  and  Thrones — Marvelous 
I'iliars — Treasure  and  Slau(j;hter. 

XXXII.    AcRA 404 

The  MoRul  Capital — The  Taj  Mahal — The  Fort  and 
Other  liuildings. 

XXXIII.  Wkstf.rn  India 415 

Ajmere — Ahinedabad — Tombs  and  Mosques — Jey- 
pore  or  Jaipur. 

XXXIV.  Bombay 43° 

India's  Chief  Port — Public  Buildings — The  Native 
(Quarter — The  Parsis — The  Caves  of  Elephanta. 

XXXV.   Thr  Arabian  Ska 449 

Farewell   to   India — Aden — Entering  the   Red  Sea. 

XXXVf.   Thk  Red  Sea 462 

Its  Ports  and  its  Colors — Suez — The  Great  Canal — A 
Glance  at  Egypt. 

XXXVII.   Cairo   "The  Victorious".    ...     476 

The  First  City  of  Africa — At  the  Pyramids — The 
Sphinx — Streets  of  Cairo — Alexandria. 

XXXVIII.    "The  Isles  of  Greece"    ....    492 

Oriental  Passengers — Historic  Places — Rhodes — 
Apostolic  Associations — A  Glimpse  of  Athens — 
Smyrna — Troy. 

XXXIX.   Constantinople 514 

Constantinople — The  Suburbs. 

XL.   Constantinople  to  London  .    .    .     522 

A  I.ong  Rj  ilvvay  Ride — Days  in  London — Conclu- 
sion. 


-The 


-Jey- 


Vative 
a. 


I  Sea. 


al— A 


—The 


375 


.    .     .      389 

velous 

,    .     .      404 
rt  and 


415 


430 


.     449 


462 


476 


)des- 
lens- 


.     492 

.      522 


onclu- 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


THE  STAP.T 

ATRIP  around  the  world  is  a  small  matter 
to-day  compared  with  what  it  was  a  gene- 
ration, or  even  a  decade,  ago.  Bnt  it  is  still 
trne  that  long  journeys  by  land  and  sea  have  to 
be  taken,  many  inconveniences  have  to  be  ex- 
perienced, and  some  dangers  have  to  be  en- 
countered. 

Tli>;  start  was  made  from  New  York  on 
Tuesday,  June  4,  1895,  at  2  p.  m.,  by  the  Penn- 
sylvania Railway  for  Chicago.  One  does  not 
teel  that  he  has  really  started  so  long  as  he  still 
IS  in  our  own  country;  but  it  took  some  courage 
to  say  the  last  good-bye  to  familv  and  church 
friends,  and  to  take  the  first  step  toward  put- 
ting continents  and  oceans  between  the  trav- 
eler and  all  who  are  dearest  on  earth.  Not 
until  the  celebration  of  the  twenty-fifth  anni- 
versary of  the  pastorate  were  the  strength  and 
^naerness  of  the  pastoral  tie  fully  appreciated. 
The  view  of  members  of  the  family  and  the 
church  friends  who  came  to  the  station,  and  who 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


I 


I 
f ' 


watched  as  the  train  rolled  out,  will  long  remain 
as  a  cherished  memory. 

A  friend  of  college  days,  and  of  the  many 
years  since,  was  at  the  station  in  Philadelphia 
to  give  his  greeting  and  to  say  good-bye.  His 
courtesy  was  greatly  appreciated  ;  and  the  ride 
through  the  picturesque  regions  of  Pennsylvania 
was  much  enjoyed.  A  copiotis  rain  during  the 
night  settled  the  dust  and  cooled  the  heated  air. 
The  morning  found  us  at  Columbus,  Ohio,  and 
the  ride  to  Chicago,  over  finely  cultivated  fields, 
in  the  cool  air  and  in  the  bright  sunshine,  was 
truly  delightful. 

A  Glimpse  of  Chicago. — Early  in  the  after- 
noon Chicago,  with  its  black  smoke,  its  wonder- 
ful history,  and  its  brilliant  future,  appeared  in 
the  distance.  While  waiting  for  the  train  on 
the  Northwestern  road  there  was  time  for  reflec- 
tion on  Chicago.  The  most  remarkable  thing 
which  foreigners  who  visited  the  Columbian 
Exposition  at  Chicago  saw  was  Chicago.  In  its 
early  history  it  was  simply  an  Indian  trading- 
post  established  by  an  enterprising  French  Negro. 
In  1804  the  government  built  a  log  fort  and 
named  it  Henry  Dearborn,  after  the  secretary  of 
war  at  the  time.  During  the  war  of  18 12  the 
fort  was  evacuated,  and  in  181 6  a  new  one  was 
built.  It  was  not  until  1833  that  the  real  work 
of  making  a  city  was  begun.  It  is  not  a  little 
surprising  to  remember  now,  as  we  ride  through 
this  great  city,  that  in  1832  the  population  was 
less  than  one  hundred;  that  in  1833  it  was  two 


^  remain 

he  many 
ladelpliia 
I  ye.  His 
the  ride 
isylvania 
iring-  the 
sated  air. 
)liio,  and 
ed  fields, 
line,  was 


the  after- 

wonder- 

)earcd  in 

train  on 

or  reflec- 

le  thinj>^ 

himbian 

In  its 

trading- 

1  Negro. 

ort  and 

etary  of 

812  the 

one  was 

al  work 

a  little 

hrough 

ion  was 

was  two 


I 


THE   START 


thousand  ;  that  in  two  years  more  it  was  four 
thousand  ;  that  in  1845  it  was  twelve  thousand  ; 
and  that  in  1849  it  was  twenty-three  thousand  ; 
and  so  it  increased  until  in  1880  it  was  the  lead- 
ing city  of  the  West,  with  a  population  of  five 
hundred  and  three  thousand;  in  1890  it  had  one 
million  two  hundred  thousand,  and  in  1894  one 
million  five  hundred  tliousand.  It  is  no  wonder 
that  the  people  of  Chic.igoarc  proud  of  their  city. 
It  is  the  capital  of  a  vast  empire  Her  great 
fires  were  a  blessing  in  a  thin  disguise.  They 
gave  Chicagoans  an  opportunity  to  build  a  nobler 
city  and  to  show  their  undaunted  courage.  New 
York,  because  of  her  history  and  location,  must 
continue  to  possess  great  advantages  over  Chi- 
cago, but  the  Western  city  will  always  have  op- 
portunities and  successes  peculiarly  her  own. 

She  has  recently  made  rapid  strides  in  the  di- 
rection of  municipal  reform.  The  civic  federa- 
tion of  Chicago  is  already  a  great  power  for 
good.  Its  influence  is  felt  in  every  part  of  the 
city  government.  Its  president  is  Mr.  Lyman  J. 
Gage,  who  is  also  president  of  the  First  National 
Bank,  and  one  of  the  ablest  financiers  in  America.' 
The  administration  of  Mayor  Hopkins  was  a 
disappointment  to  all  lovers  of  municipal  re- 
form ;  and  the  people  resented  his  failure  in  his 
high  office  by  electing  George  B.  Swift  by  a  major- 
ity of  over  forty  thousand.  In  that  election  the 
city  adopted  the  Civil  Service  Law  passed  by 

•  Since  these  words  were  written  Mr.  Ciage,  as  all  know,  has 
hecome  Secretary  of  the  United  States  Treasury.  His  course 
therein  more  than  justifies  the  estimate  here  recorded. 


AROUND   TlIK    WORMJ 


i 

I' 
1 1 


the  State  legislature.  This  law  makes  it  certain 
that  the  city  will  have  a  better  govcrniiieiit;  and 
the  law  as  enacted  by  the  State  cannot  be  re- 
pealed by  any  city  council.  This  law  provides 
that  three  Civil  Service  commissioners  shall  be 
appointed  by  the  mayor,  that  competitive  ex- 
aminations shall  be  open  to  all  for  entrance  to 
municipal  service,  that  promotions  shall  be  made 
on  the  basis  of  merit,  and  that  politics  will  not 
be  considered  in  appointments,  promotions,  or 
removals.  Chicaq^o  is  thus  the  first  city  in  the 
country  to  adopt  such  a  system  for  its  own  ^ov- 
ernment.  Other  cities  will  have  to  imitate  her 
example.  Cities  govern  the  country.  If  they  are 
not  well  governed  there  is  no  hope  for  the  re- 
public. The  time  will  soon  come  in  New  York 
when  it  will  not  be  an  insuperal)le  barrier  to 
civic  promotion  that  a  man  is  an  American  by 
birth  and  a  Protestant  in  faith. 


SAI.T  lyAKR  City. — After  a  brief  stay  in  Chi- 
cago, on  we  rode  by  day  and  by  night  until  over 
sixteen  hundred  miles  were  passed,  and  Salt 
Lake  City  was  reached.  In  being  able  to  visit 
this  citv  a  long-cherished  wish  was  p-ratified. 
Indeed,  the  determination  to  make  this  visit  led 
to  the  selection  of  the  route  of  travel  chosen, 
and  to  the  postponement  of  a  visit  to  Los  An- 
geles and  other  interesting  places  in  its  vicinity. 
It  was  difficult  to  realize  on  the  way  to  the  hotel 
that  forty-eight  years  ago  this  valley  was  an  un- 
broken wilderness.  Now  it  is  cultivated  to  a 
degree  of   prosperity   scarcely   equaled   in   any 


TIIK   START 


l)art  of  the  country.  Ivveii  a  jj^lance  showed 
that  tlie  city  is  laid  out  iu  broad  streets  inter- 
secting one  another  at  right  angles,  that  these 
streets  are  bordered  with  eottonwood  trees,  Loni- 
bardy  poplars,  and  other  trees,  and  that  in  each 
gutter  a  stream  of  water  swiftly  flo-.vs,  making 
sweet  music  and  giving  life  and  jjeauty  to  all 
forms  of  vegetation.  A  glimpse  also  showed 
the  great  Mormon  Temple  and  Tabernacle,  the 
roof  of  the  latter  lookin<r  like  the  bottom  of  an 
overturned  boat,  or  like  a  huge  metallic  dish, 
cover,  and  forming  a  feature  of  the  city  as 
prominent  as  it  is  unsightly.  Of  both  these 
great  structures  fuller  mention  will  be  made 
later  in  this  chapter. 

It  is  well  known  that  Salt  Lake  City  was 
founded  July  24,  1847,  by  the  Mormons,  or 
"Latter-Day  Saints,"  as  they  called  themselves. 
On  that  day  Brigham  Young  stood  on  Ensign 
Peak,  the  "  Mount  of  Prophecy,"  and  announced 
to  his  followers  that  in  the  valley  below  should 
be  founded  the  new  "  City  of  Zion,"  as  the  future 
home  of  the  "  Saints."  Until  1871  these 
"Sai:  ts"  virtually  lived  apart  from  the  rest  of 
world ;  this  seclusion  they  desired,  to  enable 
them  to  carry  out  their  peculiar  social  and  re- 
ligious principles  and  practices.  It  is  altogether 
likely  that  they  believed  that  they  were  beyond 
the  jurisdiction  of  the  United  States,  and  that 
they  might  be  a  law  unto  themselves.  But 
mining  interests  drew  a  Gentile  population  to 
Salt  Lake  City  and  its  vicinity  ;  and  this  popu- 
lation has  so  increased  that  now,  in  its  outward 


k 


■I 

I' 

;■ 


6  AROUND   Till'    WORM) 

aspects,  the  city  differs  but  little  from  any  otlicr 
coinimiiiity  in  the  coinitry.  The  impress,  how- 
ever, of  its  first  settlers  is  fixed  in  the  names  of 
the  streets,  in  public  institutions,  and  in  the  lay- 
inj;  out  of  the  city.  The  temple  is  the  center  of 
everything.  Streets  are  laid  out  with  reference 
to  it,  and  they  are  east  or  west,  north  or  south, 
accordinj^  to  their  relation  to  this  j^reat  central 
building.  It  is  worth  much  to  any  relij^ious 
body  to  be  the  first  to  occupy  these  ^reat  West- 
ern fields  where  cities  so  soon  sprinj»^  into  exist- 
ence. There  is  here  a  lesson  for  our  Home  Mis- 
sion Society,  and  for  all  our  clnirches. 

Salt  Lake  City  is  situated  at  the  base  of  the 
Wasatch  Mountains.  It  has  a  pojMilation  of  per- 
haps sixty  thousand,  and  is  over  four  thousand 
feet  above  the  sea-level.  Its  public  buildinj^s, 
business  blocks,  and  private  residences  p^ivc  every 
indication  of  wealth  and  prosperity.  The  finest 
residences  are  on  the  mountain  bench,  which 
doubtless  was  once  the  shore  of  a  p^reat  inland 
sea,  whose  waters  ap^es  ago  receded  until  they 
finally  settled  in  the  basin  of  the  Great  Salt 
Lake.  One  of  the  leading  business  enterprises 
is  "  Zion's  Co-operative  Mercantile  Institution," 
which  is  popularly  known  as  the  "Co-op." 
Wherever  one  sees  a  buildinj^  with  the  mystic 
initials,  "  Z.  C.  M.  L,"  he  may  know  that  it  is  a 
branch  of  the  great  "Co-op."  Its  lieadquarters 
are  in  a  large  building,  and  it  does  a  business  of 
from  six  million  dollars  to  eight  million  dollars 
annually.  It  has  branches  in  at  least  four  towns 
in  the  Territory. 


TlIK   START 


Thmim.k  vScji'AKK. — This  point  is  very  attract- 
ive to  tile  tourist.  Here  are  tiie  Asseinl)ly  Hall, 
the  Tabernacle,  and  the  Temple.  The  hall  cost 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars,  and  it 
will  seat  about  two  thousand  person.s.  The 
Tabernacle  has  often  been  described  ;  it  is  ob- 
long and  its  acoustics  are  perfect.  It  is  literally 
true  that  in  it,  when  there  is  perfect  silence,  one 
can  hear  the  fallinj^  of  a  pin;  the  experiment 
was  succcssf;:lly  tried  by  our  j^niide  durinn^  our 
visit.  The  roof  is,  with  possibly  one  exception, 
the  lari»-est  self-supportiivjf  roof  in  the  world. 
The  seatin*^  capacity  of  the  buildin.ij  is  generally 
said  to  be  from  twelve  thousand  to  fifteen  thou- 
sand ;  but  this  is  certainly  an  overstatement. 
The  capacity  of  all  public  buildin<^s  is  almost 
invariably  exagi^erated.  Nine  thousand  is  a 
lart^e  fi<^urc  to  name  for  the  Tabernacle ;  per- 
haps it  can  hold  nine  thousand  and  seat  sevn 
thousand  five  hundred,  and  this  is  a  liberal 
fiji^ure. 

The  Temple  is,  with  the  exception  of  St. 
Patrick's  Cathedral,  New  York,  the  costliest  and 
j^randest  ecclesiastical  structure  in  our  country ; 
but  other  religious  liuildin.ci^s  now  in  process  of 
erection  will  equal  and  perhaps  surpass  it  in  this 
respect.  It  was  be.u^un  in  1853  and  completed  in 
1893;  its  cost  is  put  down  at  from  five  to  six 
million  dollars.  It  is  two  hundred  feet  lonpr,  one 
hundred  feet  wide,  and  one  hundred  feet  hicrh, 
with  a  tower  at  each  corner  two  hundred  and 
twenty  feet  hijrh.  Tiie  figure  which  represents  the 


angel  ISIoroni- 


-the  guardian  angel  of  IMormon- 


& 


8 


AROUND   THK    WORUD 


If 


isiii — is  of  gigantic  size.  It  represents  INIoroni 
as  a  herald,  bringing  to  the  earth  the  gospel  of 
the  latter-day  dispensation.  The  temple  is  bnilt 
wholly  of  snow-wh'te  granite  from  the  cotton- 
wood  canon  ;  it  is  said  that  it  can  be  seen  for 
fifty  miles  up  and  down  the  valley.  Gentiles 
are  not  permitted  to  enter  it ;  but  it  is  under- 
stood that  the  first  floor  is  used  for  baptisms,  and 
other  floors  for  celestial  marriages  and  the  vari- 
ous rites  which  belong  only  to  the  initiated. 
These  rites,  and  the  parts  of  the  building  where 
they  are  observed,  are  open  only  to  those  who 
have  passed  through  all  the  preceding  rites. 
Near  the  square  is  the  "  Bee  Hive,"  once  the 
home  of  Brigliani  Young.  Near  also  is  the 
Tithing  House,  and  not  far  distant  is  the  Gardo 
House,  or  the  "  Amelia  Palace,"  the  former  home 
of  Brigham  Yonng's  favorite  wife. 

Our  Baptist  Work. — In  the  winter  of  1871 
General  Dodge  was  sent  by  the  government  to 
Salt  Lake  City  as  Superintendent  of  Indian 
Affairs.  With  him  were  his  wife  and  two 
daughters.  They  were  all  leal-hearted  Baptists. 
As  early  as  1856  a  I\Irs.  Varney,  who  was  a  Bap- 
tist, came  with  her  Mormon  husband.  In  Feb- 
ruary, 1872,  during  a  visit  by  Rev.  Mr.  Brown, 
of  Evanston,  Wyoming,  a  Baptist  church  was 
organized.  It  was  the  first  Baptist  church  in 
Utah  Territory,  and,  with  the  exception  of  the 
Mormon  and  Roman  churches,  the  first  of  any 
denomination.  But  General  Dodge  and  his 
family  returned  to  Washington.     Other   mem- 


THE   START 


1 


5 


bers  iiiovcd  away  and  some  died,  and  tlie  work 
was  virtually  suspended. 

In  July,  1882,  Rev.  Dwight  Spencer,  as  gen- 
eral missionary  of  the  Home  Mission  Society,  re- 
suscitated the  church.  The  next  year  a  per- 
manent organization  was  formed,  and  in  March, 
1884,  a  house  of  worship  costing  fourteen  thou- 
sand dollars  was  dedicated.  The  first  i)astor 
was  Rev.  Dr.  li.  G.  DeWitt,  and  the  beloved 
Deacon  Kstey,  of  Brattleboro,  Vermont,  became 
responsible  for  his  salary.  His  service  of  two 
years  was  marked  by  prosi)erity.  Rev.  L.  L. 
Wood  was  the  next  pastor  ;  he  was  followed  by 
Rev.  D.  D.  Forward.  In  April,  1891,  Rev. 
Henry  B.  Steelman,  still  pastor  at  the  time  of 
this  visit,  took  up  the  work.  Mr.  Steelman  was 
a  helper  to  Dr.  Judson  for  one  year  in  Orange, 
and  for  two  years  in  New  York  ;  he  was  for  a 
time  a  pastor  in  Troy,  and  he  then  succeeded 
Dr.  Parmly  in  Jersey  City.  He  has  found  re- 
newed health  and  vigor  in  the  pure  air  of  Salt 
Lake  City.  His  work  is  wholesome  and  fruit- 
ful ;  every  brand  1  of  it  is  prosperous.  It  must 
be  remembered  tl'at  more  than  two-thirds  of  the 
population  are  Mormons,  and  they  are  as  hostile 
to  the  Baptist  faith  as  if  tliey  were  Romanists. 
The  church  is  an  institutional  cluirch  ;  its  lines 
of  work  are  many  and  its  work  on  every  line  is 
vigorous.  It  has  no  fewer  than  five  branches  in 
the  city  and  vicinity.  It  gave  me  much  pleasure 
to  worship  with  this  excellent  people,  and  then 
to  address  them  from  God's  word. 

Rev.  S.  G.  Adams  is  the  earnest  pastor  of  the 


fV 


i;i' 


r 
1a 


( 


I ' 


lO 


AROUND    THK    WORLD 


East  Side  Baptist  Cluircn,  under  the  direction 
of  the  Home  Mission  Society.  He  is  also  the 
missionary  for  Utah  Territory.  The  exercises 
of  Children's  Day  at  this  church  were  especially 
interesting.  Mr.  Adams  ought  to  liave  all  his 
time  for  missionary  work.  It  is  a  great  pity  that 
we  cannot  put  more  workers  into  this  territorial 
field.  This  earnest  brother  groans  over  the 
feebleness  of  Christian  work  in  the  territory  as 
a  whole,  and  I  deeply  sympathized  with  him  in 
the  hope  that  soon  we  may  be  able  to  enter  with 
an  adequate  force  on  the  work  in  this  hard  but 
hopeful  field  It  is  earnestly  commended  to  the 
consideration  of  the  Home  Mission  Society  and 
of  our  churches  generally. 

SoMK  OTHER  Matters. — The  Joint  City  and 
County  Building  is  of  extreme  beauty.  It 
towers  above  every  other  edifice  except  the 
Temple,  and  in  some  respects  above  that.  It  is 
topped  only  by  the  snow-clad  peaks  of  the  sur- 
rounding mountains.  It  is  a  graceful  combina- 
tion of  Roman  and  Byzantine  art,  and  in  all  its 
details  it  is  as  complete  as  its  general  effect  is 
imposing.  Its  cost  was  more  than  three-quarters 
of  a  million  dollars.  It  markr,  an  era  of  progress 
in  this  ambitious  and  prosperous  city. 

The  Sanitarium  Hot  Spring  Baths  are  said  to 
be  the  finest  in  all  the  details  of  the  buildings 
in  America.  The  Hotel  Knutsford  would  be 
called  quite  good  in  almost  any  city,  and  the 
Templeton,  under  Mormon  control,  is  reason- 
ably good.     The  city  is  one  of  the  largest  mili- 


THK    START 


II 


tary  posts  in  the  West,  Fort  Douglas  being  in 
the  neighborhood.  The  Hot  Springs  are  highly 
medicinal,  and  this  vicinity  must  more  and  more 
become  a  popular  resort  for  invalids  from  all 
parts  of  America.  The  river  Jordan  is  a  small 
river  of  yellow  water  flowing  from  Utah  Lake  to 
Salt  Lake.  The  river  received  its  name  because 
it  connects  this  lake  and  this  sea,  as  its  name- 
sake connects  the  Sea  of  Galilee  and  the  Dead 
Sea. 

The  Great  Salt  Lake  is  eighteen  miles  from 
the  city ;  it  is  the  Dead  Sea  of  America.  It  is 
first  mentioned  in  history  by  Baron  La  Houtan 
in  1689,  who  learned  from  Indians  of  its  exist- 
ence. Gen.  John  C.  Fremont  deserves  the  honor 
of  having  first  really  discovered  it,  while  on  his 
way  to  Oregon  in  1842.  Its  length  is  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-six  miles,  and  its  breadth  forty- 
five  miles.  In  the  years  from  1847  to  1856  it 
gradually  filled  up  about  six  feet,  and  then 
slowly  subsided  to  its  old  depth  of  about  twenty 
feet.  Although  many  streams  pour  into  it,  it  has 
no  outlet.  Its  salt  is  very  pure  ;  it  is  the  opinion 
of  salt-makers  that  there  is  seventeen  pe-  cent, 
of  solid  matter  in  the  lake.  The  lake  is  i.ow  a 
fashionable  bathing  resort,  and  trains  to  Saltair 
are  run  almost  hourly  from  Salt  Lake  City. 


What  about  Mormonism  ?—  It  is  still  very 
powerful.  It  has  wealth,  faith,  and  zeal.  The 
zeal  of  many  of  its  people  is  worthy  of  the  noblest 
causes.  The  writer  talked  with  representatives 
of  various  types  of  IMormoiiism ;  some  of  tliem 


r 


■MHiHIl 


12 


AROUND    THK    WORl.l) 


are  men  and  women  who  were  truly  converted 
in  England  and  elsewhere  before  they  adopted 
the  vagaries  of  Mornionism.  They  are  very  de- 
vout, loyal,  and  zealous.  They  stand  ready  to 
go,  at  their  own  charges,  to  any  part  of  the 
earth  to  preach  the  doctrines  of  Mormonism  ;  to 
preach,  as  they  told  me,  "  the  gospel  in  its  full- 
ness." A  man  who  was  just  getting  well  started 
in  life,  recently  mortgaged  his  farm  to  get  money 
to  go  on  a  mission  to  the  ends  of  the  earth.  Their 
zeal  rebukes  our  coldness. 

What  about  polygam>  ?  This  is  their  state- 
ment :  "  What  God  reveals  we  accept.  We  ask 
no  questions  ;  we  raise  no  objections.  The  rev- 
elation may  be  distasteful,  but  we  obey.  He  has 
revealed  his  will  regarding  polygamous  mar- 
riages, and  we  accept  the  doctrine.  But  the 
laws  of  the  United  States  are  against  the  prac- 
tice ;  we,  therefore,  hold  the  principle,  but  sus- 
pend the  practice."  This  is  a  fair  statement  of 
their  side  of  the  case.  But  do  they  suspend  the 
practice?  On  that  point  Gentiles  are  very  skep- 
tical, and  they  will  give  you  reasonable  grounds 
for  their  skepticism.  They  do  not  believe  in 
the  honesty  of  many  IVIormons  in  this  regard. 
There  is,  however,  at  least  ostensible  conformity 
to  the  law,  but  many  suggestions  are  made  as  to 
clandestine  violations  of  it.  Many  Gentiles  feel 
that  if  the  Territory  is  received  into  the  Union  as 
a  State  polygamy  will  be  ope.^.ly  and  defiantly 
practised,  and  there  is  ground  for  this  fear.^   The 

*  The  result  of  granting  statehood  to  the  Territory  has  more 
than  justified  the  fears  here  expressed  regarding  the  continuance 


hi 


THE   START 


13 


^ 


Mormons  have  been  and  are  an  industrious  peo- 
ple. They  have  literally  transformed  the  desert 
into  a  garden  ;  they  have  made  it  blossom  as  the 
rose. 

But  there  are  in  Mormouism  marked  elements 
of  weakness;  it  cannot  hold  the  young  people. 
I  attended  meetings  of  the  "  Young  Men's  Mutual 
Improvement  Association."  This  organization 
is  doing  much  work ;  but  at  the  Sunday  after- 
noon service  —  an  anniversary  gathering  —  the 
presidents  of  many  of  the  "  Stakes  "  complained 
bitterly  of  the  lack  of  interest  shown  by  the 
young  in  the  work.  President  Woodruff  spoke 
in  the  same  spirit;  a  strain  of  pathos  marked 
his  address  because  of  his  own  advanced  years, 
and  because  of  the  indifference  of  the  young. 
He  earnestly  exhorted  them  to  manifest  greater 
diligence,  but  it  was  evident  that  he  had  not 
much  hope  of  seeing  his  desire  realized.  It  is 
said  on  every  side  that  many  are  neglectful  of 
their  tithes.  The  Tabernacle  was  not  more  than 
two-thirds  full,  even  on  this  anniversary  occa- 
sion. There  is  not  now  the  religious  experience 
on  the  part  of  the  young  which  the  older  gen- 
eration possessed.  They  are  baptized  at  eight 
years,  and  no  religious  experience  is  expressed 
or  expected.  The  old  spirit  of  daring  and  of 
heroism,  which  made  many  of  the  pioneers  zea- 
lots and  martyrs,  is  now  largely  wanting ;  their 


of  polygamy.  The  election  of  Brigham  H.  Roberts,  although 
he  was  an  avowed  polygamist,  shows  the  hold  polygamy  has  on 
the  people.  But  the  refusal  of  the  House  to  seat  him  gives  po- 
lygamy a  stinging  rebuke. 


14 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


political  power  also  is  waning.     Salt  Lake  City 
is  in  the  hands  of  Gentiles. 

Few  pastors  or  missionaries  whom  I  met 
favored  giving  statehood  to  Utah ;  bnt  they 
recognize  that  it  is  coming,  and  they  do  not 
wish  to  be  found  as  earnestly  in  opposition. 
God  help  the  Christian  brethren  to  do  their  full 
duty  in  this  crisis.  Baptists  are  best  abie  to 
meet  the  errors  of  Mormonism,  and  God  is  giving 
us  great  opportunities.  Long  will  the  memory 
of  this  visit  live  in  the  writer's  mind.  Beautiful 
is  Salt  Lake  City,  glorious  arc  its  mountains,  and 
superb  is  the  historic  valley.  The  air  was  a  con- 
stant delight,  and  mere  living  was  an  inspiration. 
Rarer  than  even  Mr.  Lowell's  rare  days  in  June 
were  those  spent  in  the  congenial  friendship,  the 
perfect  atmosphere,  and  the  appreciated  rest  at 
Salt  Lake  City. 


II 


OGDEN   TO  SAN   FRANCISCO 

THE  word  "  Utah  "  is  of  Indian  derivation, 
and  is  said  to  mean,  "A  home  on  a  moun- 
tain "  ;  it  is  related  to  the  word  Ute,  the  name  of 
the  Indian  tribe.  The  Territory  contains  a  little 
over  eighty-four  thousand  square  miles,  and  the 
yearly  value  of  its  farm  products  is  not  less  than 
ten  million  dollars.  On  Monday  morning,  after 
the  two  days  of  rest  in  Salt  Lake  City,  in  com- 
pany with  Rev.  S.  G.  Adams,  who  is  full  of  facts 
regarding  Utah  and  of  zeal  in  religious  work,  the 
journey  of  thirty-seven  miles  was  made  from  Salt 
Lake  City  north  to  Ogden.  Ogden  is  a  railway 
and  manufacturing  town  ;  it  has  an  elevation  of 
over  four  thousand  feet,  and  a  population  of 
thirty  thousand  persons.  It  gives  employment 
to  a  great  number  of  men,  it  being  the  location 
of  the  shops  of  five  leading  trunk  lines.  It  is 
beautifully  situated  on  the  west  slope  of  the 
Wasatch  Mountains.  Its  wide,  well-paved,  and 
pleasantly  shaded  streets  are  lighted  with  elec- 
tricity. Pure  water  abounds;  and  the  people, 
like  those  of  many  other  sections,  affirm  that 
there  is  no  better  climate  in  the  United  States. 
Rev.  Dwight  Spencer  was  largely  instrumental 
in  the  building  of  the  ornate  Baptist  church  in 

15 


i6 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


Ogdeii ;  and  here,  Rev.  Richard  Hartley,  now 
so  much  esteemed  as  the  pastor  of  the  Hope 
Church,  New  York,  was  once  the  pastor.  He 
and  his  wife  are  still  appreciatively  remembered. 
The  present  pastor,  Rev.  L.  L.  Crandall,  is  doin<r 
excellent  work.  We  met  him  and  the  pastors  of 
most  of  the  other  churches  in  the  study  of  the 
Methodist  pastor  at  their  regular  Monday  meet- 
ing. The  sanctified  common  sense,  pulpit  and 
pastoral  ability,  and  religious  zeal  of  Pastor 
Crandall,  bear  constant  fruit.  The  pleasant 
drive,  the  hospitable  welcome  by  Mrs.  Crandall, 
and  the  fraternal  spirit  shown  in  many  ways 
made  a  charming  memory  as  the  long  journey 
was  resumed  that  beautiful  afternoon. 

Oases  in  the  Desert. — Already  we  had 
crossed  weary  miles  of  dreary  deserts.  Fortu- 
nately, however,  we  wer'^  not  troubled  by  alkali 
dust.  It  was  seen  all  along  the  road,  making 
the  sand  quite  white,  but  recent  rains  had  so 
completely  laid  it  that  it  caused  us  no  annoy- 
ance. As  one  looked  out  on  the  hundreds  of 
miles  of  desert  and  sage  brush  a  parody  on  the 
words  of  Tennyson  came  constantly  to  mind : 

Oh,  the  dreary,  dreary  sageland  !     Oh,  the  barren,  barren 
moor  ! 

But  there  are  oases  in  this  desert.  One  of  these 
was  at  Humboldt ;  and  a  fine  illustration  is  there 
given  of  the  magical  effects  produced  by  irriga- 
tion. Wearied  with  the  constant  view  of  sand 
and  sagebrush,  the  valley  in  this  neighborhood 


OGDICN    TO   SAN    FRANCISCO 


presented  a  most  delightful  appearance.  It  is 
eighty  miles  in  length  and  ten  in  breadth,  and 
IS  occupied  by  agriculturists  and  stock  raisers. 
A  river  flows  through  the  valley,  making  it  fer- 
tile and  beautiful.  This  river  runs  nearly  three 
hundred  miles  and  then  pours  its  waters  into 
Humboldt  Lake,  which  has  no  visible  outlet. 
1  he  railway  follows  the  river  and  also  the  old 
immigrant  trail.  Here  we  saw  many  specimens 
of  the  "noble  red  men."  As  seen  crouching  or 
skulking  by  the  railway  stations  he  is  very  red, 
but  by  no  means  noble.  At  Winnemucca,  named 
from  a  famous  Indian  chief  who  made  his  home 
in  this  region,  other  red  men,  their  wives  and 
children,  were  seen  ;  here  also  there  was  a  de- 
lightful oasis  and  an  opportunity  for  dropping 
postal  cards  to  friends  at  home. 

We  were  now  one  hundred  and  thirty-eight 
miles  distant  from  Wadsworth.  This,  as  aVliSle, 
is  tiie  most  uninteresting  of  all  the  deserts  crossed 
in  this  transcontinental  journey.  Some  distance 
beyond,  at  Mirage,  we  had  a  fine  opportunity  of 
witnessing  the  phenomenon  peculiar  to  the 
desert ;  the  optical  illusion  was  perfect,  and  it 
has  often  allured  immigrants  to  seek  refreshment 
where  none  was  to  be  had,  a  picture  of  life  in 
too  many  of  its  sad  features.  But  Wadsworth 
is  a  veritable  boon  in  this  dreary  waste  of  sand. 
We  were  soon  in  what  may  be  called  the  lake 
region  of  Nevada.  Shortly  after  leaving  Reno 
we  begin  to  climb  the  Sierra  Nevada  range. 
The  ra:ige  grows  rapidly  steeper ;  for  over  fifty 
miles  the  ascent  continues.    Very  grand  scenery 


i8 


AROUND   TIIK   WORM) 


stretches  out  on  every  side  ;  we  are  climbing  to 
Summit  Station,  tlie  hi<>;licst  point  reached  by 
the  Southern  Pacific  Railway  from  Oj^den  to 
San  Francisco.  The  road  follows  from  Reno 
the  course  of  the  Truckce  River.  Towering 
rocks,  foaming  rivers,  and  pine-clad  mountains 
attract,  delight,  and  inspire  the  traveler.  Truckce 
stands  at  the  eastern  base  of  the  Sierra  Nevada — 
the  snowy  saw,  as  the  words  mean — mountains. 
This  is  truly  an  Alpine  village.  Lumber  is  the 
leading  industry.  A  fellow-traveler  tells  us 
that  he  can  remember  when  there  was  a  dense 
forest  where  now  the  village  stands.  Up  we 
climb.  We  are  now  seven  thousand  feet  above 
the  sea.  Here  are  lakes  Tahoe,  Donner,  Webber, 
and  Independence.  Donner  Lake  is  made  mem- 
orable because  thirty-four  of  the  Donner  party 
died  of  .starvation  on  its  shores  in  the  year  1846. 
Bierstadt  has  made  the  beauty  of  this  lake,  high 
up  among  the  Sierras,  familiar  by  his  paintings. 
Here  are  great  mountain  peaks  :  Mount  Ralston, 
nine  thousand  one  hundred  and  forty  feet ;  Mount 
Tallac,  nine  thousand  seven  hundred  and  fifteen 
feet ;  Pyramid  Peak,  ten  thousand  fifty-two, 
and  Job's  Peak,  ten  thousand  six  hundred  and 
thirty-seven. 

For  forty  miles  there  is  an  almost  constant 
line  of  snow  sheds  to  protect  the  road  during 
winter  travel.  These  sheds  very  unpleasantly 
interrupt  the  view,  but  they  are  a  necessary  evil. 
We  experienced  cold  weather,  and  were  glad  to 
have  the  steam  turned  on  to  make  the  cars  com- 
fortable.    The  contrast  between  this  cold  and 


OGDKN    TO   SAN    KRANCISCO 


19 


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the  licat  in  New  York  on  Snnday,  Jnne  3,  was 
certainly  very  marked.  Two  j;reat  enj^ines 
draj^<;ed  the  train  upward,  while  we  could  ^et 
{glimpses  of  Donner  Lake  j^leaniin^ir  like  a  dia- 
mond in  its  setting  of  j^ranite.  A  panorama  of 
pine-clad  hills  and  of  splintered  mountain  i)eaks 
stretched  around  us.  Soon  we  reached  the  sum- 
mit, which  for  many  years  rij^htly  claimed  the 
honor  of  bein<^  the  highest  railway  point  in  our 
country.  This  is  the  "divide,"  whence  flow 
streams  by  many  courses  until  they  unite  in  the 
Sacramento. 

San  Francisco. — Going  through  Colfax  and 
Sacramento  in  the  night,  we  reached  Oakland  in 
the  morning,  and  were  .soon  in  San  Franci.sco. 
It  was  with  no  little  emotion  that  the  first  view 
of  the  bay  was  taken.  We  all  know  that  San 
Franci-sco  Bay  ranks  as  one  of  the  great  harbors 
of  the  world.  It  is  a  land-locked  .sheet  of  water 
about  fifty  miles  long.  Its  .shipments  are  great, 
and  it  lies  at  the  terminus  of  several  transconti- 
nental routes.  The  fir.st  view  of  San  Francisco 
from  the  deck  of  the  ferryboat  is  charming.  It 
is  truly  a  city  set  on  a  hill.  It  is  the  most  hilly 
city  I  have  ever  .seen.  It  cannot  but  command 
attention  ;  it  is  almost  equally  .sure  to  elicit  ad- 
miration. The  older  houses  are  florid  in  their 
architecture ;  the  newer  buildings,  such  as  the 
Mills  Building  and  the  Y.  M.  C.  A.,  are  plainer, 
and  so  in  much  better  taste.  The  fires  which 
have  swept  the  city  have  improved  it  greatly, 
but  there  is  still  work  for  fire  to  do  in  destroy- 


inj;-  the  uti.si<;litly  wooden  1)ll^l(Hn^^s  which  re- 
main. 

How  cool  are  tlic  trade  v.'nds  !  To  one  jnst 
from  New  York  they  were  a  l)enedietion.  An 
overcoat  was  necessary  for  comfort.  By  tlic  time 
these  winds  j;et  inland  they  lose  their  coolness, 
bnt  at  the  city  they  are  a  canse  for  constant 
^ratitnde.  Several  squares  are  worthy  of  con- 
sideration. On  Portsmouth  Scjuare,  on  July  8, 
1846,  Captain  Montj^omery,  of  the  United  States 
Sloop-of-war  Portsmouth,  then  lying  in  the  bay, 
at  the  connnand  of  Commodore  Sloat,  raised  the 
American  flag.  This  square  was  then  known  as  the 
"Verba  Huena";  it  is  now  Portsmouth  Square, 
San  Francisco.  A  salute  of  twenty-one  guns 
from  the  Portsmouth  ainionnced  the  fact  that  the 
United  States  had  taken  possession  of  Northern 
California.  Montgomery  Street  was  named  in 
honor  of  the  captain.  In  1849  a  signal  station 
was  established  on  Telegraph  Hill  to  give  notice 
of  the  approach  of  vessels. 

Under  the  guidance  of  Pastor  Hobart,  of  Oak- 
land, a  visit  was  made  to  the  Cliff  House  and  the 
Seal  Rocks.  Mayor  Stitro,  whose  name  is  fa- 
miliar all  over  the  country,  here  has  his  home. 
The  diploniacy  by  which  he  compelled  the  rail- 
way comprsiy  to  carry  passengers  for  five  instead 
of  fifteen  cents  is  well  known  in  the  East.  From 
what  is  known  as  Inspiration  Point  a  fine  view 
is  obtained  of  the  Pacific  Ocean  and  of  the 
Golden  Gate.  The  Seal  Rocks  and  their  strange 
occupants  are  deeply  interesting.  Three  conical 
rocks  rise  from  twenty  to  fifty  feet,  and  on  these 


OC.I)J;n    To    SAN    I'RANCISCO 


21 


rocks  often  scores  of  these  marine  nianinials, 
l)askinj;  in  the  sun  or  tuniblinj^^  into  tlie  sea,  may 
be  seen.  These  seals  seem  to  l)e  quite  tame  ; 
they  are  protected  by  law,  and  they  seem  to  be 
aware  that  their  safety  is  assured. 

A  Trip  to  Oakland. — Pastors  Hill  and 
ITobart,  of  Oakland,  honored  the  visitor  with  a 
call  at  the  Palace  Hotel,  San  PVancisco,  and  ar- 
ran<^ed  for  a  trip  to  Oakland,  and  a  mcetinj^  with 
the  pastors  of  the  two  cities.  Oakland  is  called 
the  "(iarden  City."  It  is  situated  on  the  east 
shore  of  San  Francisco  Bay,  and  it  slopes  down 
to  the  waters  from  the  mountains  which  rise 
back  of  the  city.  It  gets  its  name  from  a  j^rovc 
of  evergreen  oaks  in  which  originally  it  was 
built.  Wealthy  merchants  of  Oakland  and  San 
PVancisco  have  beautiful  villas  on  the  foothills, 
and  some  of  their  homes  will  rank  with  the 
finest  homes  in  the  suburbs  of  New  York.  In- 
deed, Oakland  is  destined  to  become  one  of  the 
most  beautiful  residence  cities  of  the  West.  One 
can  reach  Oakland  from  San  Francisco  every 
fifteen  minutes. 

Under  the  chaperonage  of  the  two  excellent 
pastors  named,  a  visit  was  made  to  California; 
College,  at  Highland  Park,  Oakland.  At  the 
college  Dr.  Samuel  B.  ]\Iorse,  president  and  pro- 
fessor of  mental  and  moral  philosophy,  met  us, 
and  courteously  showed  us  over  the  buildings 
and  part  of  the  grounds.  A  good  beginning  has 
been  made  here  for  an  enlarged  work.  The 
location  is  superb.     It  is  two  hundred  feet  above 


22 


AROUND    Tim   WORLD 


the  bay,  and  overlooks  the  city  of  Oakland 
and  commands  a  view  of  San  Francisco  Bay, 
reaching  from  the  Golden  Ciate  to  San  Jose. 
The  campus  contains  twelve  acres,  beautifully 
set  with  trees  and  shrubbery.  The  "  Mary 
Stuart  Hall  "  is  commodious  and  attractive.  On 
the  second  floor  is  the  Rockefeller  Library.  The 
Gray  mansion  was  erected  in  1888  by  Baptist 
women  in  California,  and  a  year  later  the  "  Hook 
Memorial "  as  a  dining  hall  and  dormitory.  There 
is  the  beginning  of  a  cabinet  and  museum.  The 
cost  of  board  and  tuition  is  very  reasonable,  and 
every  opportunity  of  acquiring  knowledge  will 
be  afforded  those  who  are  seeking  an  education 
under  Baptist  auspices. 

Not  far  distant,  at  Berkeley,  is  the  University 
of  California.  This  is  a  State  institution.  It  is 
an  integral  part,  perhaps  we  might  say  the 
climax,  of  the  public  educational  system  of  the 
State.  The  United  States  and  private  donors 
have  united  with  California  in  furnishing  facili- 
ties for  instruction  in  literature,  in  science,  law, 
medicine,  dentistry,  pharmacy,  and  art.  The 
opportunities  of  instruction  are  open  to  all  who 
are  properly  qualified,  without  distinction  of  sex. 
Here  is  a  great  institution  of  learning,  thoroughly 
equipped  in  all  respects  with  libraries,  museums, 
buildings,  grounds,  faculties  of  instruction,  and, 
in  a  word,  a  mr dern  outfit  for  giving  students  the 
best  facilities  and  the  latest  results  in  many  de- 
partments. There  are  older  institutions  in  the 
East  still  better  equipped  ;  but  this  university  is 
vigorously  following  their  lead. 


I 


OGDEN    TO   SAN    FRANCISCO 


23 


Seldom  are  two  institutions  of  learning,  the  one 
a  struggling  denominational  college  and  the  other 
a  great  State  institution,  brought  into  so  near 
neighborhood  and  so  sharp  a  comparison.    What 
in  these  conditions  is  the  duty  educationally  of 
the    various   denominations?     This   is  really  a 
very  serious  and  an  equally  practical  question. 
We  may  say  that  these  State  colleges  are  non- 
Christian,  or  perhaps,  in  some  cases,  anti-Chris- 
tian.    But  ought  we  to  allow  them  to  remain  in 
that   attitude   toward  Christ  and   the   church? 
Ought  we  not  to  rescue  them  from    their  hos- 
tility or  indifference  ?    Can  we  not  do  it  ?    What 
right  have  Christian  teachers  and  pastors  to  re- 
main^ indifferent  to  the  atmosphere  and  instruc- 
tion in  State  colleges  ?     Ought  not  our  boys  and 
girls  to  have  the  best  education  which  they  can 
procure  ?     Will  they  not  need  in  the  warfare  of 
life  the  best  possible  outfit  ?    Must  their  denomi- 
national loyalty  subject  them  to  educational  dis- 
advantages?    Is  It  true  denominational  loyalty 
to  accept   such  disadvantages?     These  are  im- 
portant questions.    They  are  not  asked  with  any 
desire  to  depreciate  the  work  done  in  California 
College ;  they  are  merely  suggested  by  the  visit 
to  those  two  schools  of  learning.     Might  we  not 
often  do  the  greatest  possible  service  to  Christ 
and  the  church  by  putting  into  these  great  State 
schools  as  professors,  men  distinguished  by  learn- 
ing, by  ability  to  teach,  by  personal  magnetism, 
by  social  attractiveness,  and  by  earnest  Christian 
character  and  denominational  loyalty?     Where 
could  men  of  these  characteristics  find  a  grander 


24 


AROUND    THE   WORLD 


field?  They  might  give  at  certain  times  each 
week  lectures  on  Christian  evidences  and  de- 
nominational doctrines.  Such  men  would  soon 
leaven  these  institutions  with  evangelical  and 
Christian  doctrine  and  with  a  knowledge  of  and 
regard  for  the  distinctive  principles  of  different 
denominations.  This  matter  is  surely  worthy 
the  thought  of  our  ablest  leaders. 

A  Glimpse  of  '*  Chinatown." — A  Christian 
man  or  woman  does  not  care  to  see  the  seamy 
and  dark  side  of  life,  except  so  far  as  the  sight 
may  stimulate  desire  and  effort  to  impro\  '^  the 
condition  of  our  sinful  and  sorrowiug  fellow- 
creatures.  With  this  desire  this  visit  was  made. 
Pastor  Hobart  and  two  other  gentlemen,  of  whom 
one  was  a  federal  officer  and  the  other  a  mu- 
nicipal officer,  the  former  at  least  being  also  an 
earnest  Christian  worker,  were  the  guides  on  this 
visit.  Our  Home  Mission  Chinese  church  is  a 
veritable  oasis  in  this  fearful  moral  desert.  We 
there  .saw  a  little  company  earnestly  engaged  in 
the  study  of  the  Bible.  The  leader  was  giving 
an  exposition  of  Scripture,  and  his  Chinese  hear- 
ers were  following  liim,  pencil  in  hand,  and  with 
much  sympathy  and  interest.  The  joss-house 
was  visited ;  so  were  opium  dens  and  other  abodes 
of  sin  and  varied  forms  of  indescribable  wretch- 
edness. Such  sights,  such  odors,  such  sins  !  One 
visit  is  enough  for  a  lifetime.  The  sight  of  the 
sinful  and  miserable  women  would  move  the 
hardest  heart.  One  wonders  that  life  is  possible 
in  such  a  fetid  and  poisonous  atmosphere.     It  is 


OGDEN    TO    SAN    FRANCISCO 


25 


said  that  one  poison  nentralizes  another,  and 
that  one  vile  odor  acts  as  a  disinfectant  of  other 
vile  odors.  Never  did  the  work  of  onr  Home 
Mission  Society  seem  to  be  more  needed  ;  never 
did  It  appear  to  be  so  beneficent  as  in  the  con- 
trasts seen  in  these  vile  purlieus. 

A  Meeting  oe   Brethren.— Throuo-h   the 
courtesy  of  Rev.  Messrs.  Hill  and  Hobart  an  op- 
portunity  was  given  at  Oakland  to  meet  many 
of  the  pastors  of  that  citv  and  of  San  Francisco. 
The  meeting  was  held  in  one  of  the  parlors  of 
the  Y.  M.  C.  A.     Rev.   H.  L.  Dictz,  a  German 
pastor  in  San  Francisco,  presided.     Rev.  Doctor 
Abbott,  known  and  loved  East  and  West,  made 
the  address  of  welcome.     The  visitor  then  spoke 
at    length,  and   prayer   was    offered    by   Doctor 
Morse.     This  tender  prayer  gave  great  comfort 
to  a  traveler  with  many  weary  miles  before  him 
and  so  many  dear  friends  left  behind  him.     It 
would  be  pleasant  to  iixention  the  names  of  all 
who  were  present  did  space  permit.     Their  fra- 
ternal courtesy  was  much  appreciated,  and  their 
kind  words  were  an  inspiration  and  a  benedic- 
tion.    The  world  is  small  after  all,  and  one  finds 
former  friendb  everywhere,  and  also  evidences 
that  his  work  in  one  part  of  the  field  sends  out 
some  helpful  influences  to  brothers  working  at 
remote  points  in  their  own  varied  spheres.     Our 
cause  in  these  two  cities,  and  throughout  Cali- 
fornia, is  advancing.     The  brethren  are  taking 
heart ;  they  see  brighter  days  in  the  near  future; 
indeed,  these  brighter  days  have  already  dawned.' 


F 


26 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


The  night  has  now  reached  its  noon.  Bags 
must  be  packed,  and  the  last  preparations  made 
for  sailing  on  the  morrow.  The  real  journey 
around  the  world  will  then  begin.  Then,  for  a 
time,  farewell  to  family,  church,  and  country, 
and  welcome  to  the  deep,  blue  Pacific,  and  to 
lands  in  and  beyond  the  Pacific. 


ide 
ley 
r  a 

to 


III 


SAN   FRANCISCO  TO   HONOLULU 

TT  was  with  equal  surprise  and  pleasure,  on 
±     coming  into  the  Palace  Hotel,  that  a  note 
was  received  from  Mrs.  M.  E.  Field,  of  the  Cal- 
vary Church,  New  York,  statin-  that  she  was  at 
the  Grand  Hotel,  and  was  to  sail  the  next  morn- 
ing on   the   "Australia,"  bound  for  Honolulu 
Her  surprise  was  equally  great,  and  perhaps  her 
pleasure  not  less,  when  her  pastor  called  on  her 
tne  next  morning  and  informed  her  that  he  also 
was  to  sail  on  the  same  steamer.     She  was  with 
a  party  of  friends  from  Los  Angeles,  California, 
who  had  planned  to  spend  a  month  among  the 
tairy-hke  islands  which  compose  the  "  Paradise 
of  the  Pacific."     We  were  soon  all  on  board,  and 
at  lo  A.  M.,  Saturday,  June  15,  1895,  M^e  sailed 
out  on  our  journey  of  six  days  for  those  historic 
and  now  quite  famous  islands.     One  passenger 
at  least  bade  a  long  good-bye  to  America  for  his 
journey  of   months  over  broad  seas  and  conti- 
nents.    He  now  realized  that  he  was  really  off 
for  his  around-the-world  trip,  though  until  now 
that  realization  had  not  fully  come. 

Soon  we  passed  through  the  narrow  strait, 
known  to  all  the  world  as  the  "Golden  Gate'' 
It  IS  impossible  not  to  have  serious  reflections  at 

27 


r 


28 


AROUND   THE   WORI^D 


such  a  time.  What  perils  and  experiences  may 
be  before  the  traveler?  When  will  home  and 
church  be  seen  again?  Such  thoughts  would 
come,  however  brave  and  trustful  one  might 
strive  to  be  ;  but  committing  to  Him  who  holds 
the  waters  in  the  hollow  of  his  hand  all  who 
are  dearest,  we  pushed  out  into  the  broad  and 
blue  Pacific. 

Compared  with  the  Atlantic  this  sea  doubtless 
deserves  its  name.  It  has  been  called  "  a  lazy, 
lolling,  good-natured  sea,"  but  as  we  entered 
upon  it,  it  was  far  from  being  good-natured  and 
lazy.  It  was  angry,  wild,  and  fierce.  Some 
passengers  could  not  forget  the  recent  fate  of  the 
ill-starred  "  Colimo,"  and  they  were  nervous  and 
troubled  to  no  small  degree.  The  "  Australia  " 
has  the  name  of  being  a  bad  "roller,"  and  on 
this  occasion  she  fully  justified  her  bad  reputation. 
She  rolled  constantly,  and  frequently  the  waves 
dashed  over  her  decks.  It  was  necessary  to  have 
all  the  chairs  lashed  firmly  in  order  that  passen- 
gers could  keep  their  seats.  In  some  cases  it 
was  also  necessary  to  pass  a  rope  in  front  of  those 
who  were  seated  to  which  they  might  cling  to 
make  their  safety  assured.  An  ominous  silence 
reigned  throughout  the  ship.  The  tables  were 
well-nigh  deserted  ;  and  the  passengers  slipped 
off  quietly  to  their  cabins.  A  very  small  meal 
fully  satisfied  this  writer,  and  that  was  eaten  on 
deck  ;  but  every  other  meal  was  taken  at  the 
table.  When  Sunday  morning  came  silence 
still  reigned  over  the  empty  decks  and  in  the 
deserted  saloon.     There  was  no  service  of  any 


SAN    FRANCISCO   TO    HONOLULU 


29 


kind,  although  there  were  three  clergymen  on 
board. 

But  after  about  twenty-four  hours  had  passed 
the  sea  became  calm,  and  passengers  who  had 
not  been  seen  since  the  first  hour  of  our  journey 
began  to  emerge  from  Lhtlr  cabins.  The  Pacific 
now  began  to  justify  its  name.  Another  day 
passed  and  the  great  ocean  became  smooth  as 
a  sea  of  glass,  and  of  a  lovely  sapphirine  blue. 
No  other  sea  is  of  such  a  beautiful  color.  It  is 
widely  different  from  the  Atlantic.  The  Atlantic 
IS  gray,  wrinkled,  crabbed;  the  Pacific,  in  its 
normal  condition,  is  serene,  blue,  and  sublimely 
tranquil. 

The  Passengers.— There  were  sixty  in  the 
cabin.  Among  them  was  our  omniscient  friend. 
Rev.  Joseph  Cook,  ix.  d.,  who  was  to  make  his 
second  trip  around  the  world.  Thirteen  years  be- 
fore this  he  made  the  trip,  lecturing  in  Australia, 
in  India,  and  in  other  countries  ;  he  now  proposed 
to  revisit  these  countries.  Possiblv  he  would 
spend  considerable  time  in  Japan.  All  students 
of  current  history  must  be  interested  in  the  new 
Japan  which  is  now  challenging  the  attention  of 
the  civilized  world.  It  has  been  said  that  Doc- 
tor Cook's  mission  is  to  oil  the  wheels  of  the 
universe ;  this  writer's  humble  but  useful  office 
on  this  trip  was  to  turn  the  faucet  and  let  the 
lubricating-  fluid  flow.  Perhaps  there  are  a  few 
questions  which  we  did  not  fully  settle  ;  but  the 
number  which  we  did  not  discuss,  and  in  our 
opinion  partially  settle,  is  very  small.     Doctor 


■i  W^MMMMWAUM&aii 


30 


AROUND    TIIK    WORI,D 


Cook  has  a  unique  mission  ;  and  nobly  does  lie 
perform  its  duties.  lie  has  stood  firmly  for  the 
harmony  between  science  and  religion  ;  and  he 
has  been  a  stout  advocate  of  a  conservative  and 
yet  progressive  theology.  Boston  has  honored 
liini,  and  he  has  honored  Poston.  He  was  to 
give  several  lectures  in  Honolulu,  and  to  be  the 
guest  of  Chief  Justice  Judd,  who  was  his  class- 
mate at  Yale  College. 

Rev.  Dr.  Pease  was  returning  to  his  mission 
field  on  the  Marshall  Islands,  and  the  "  Morning 
Star  "  was  waiting  in  Honolulu  to  carry  him  to 
his  field.  There  were  also  other  missionary 
workers,  both  men  and  women,  who  were  p-oing 
to  various  fields.  There  were  also  students  from 
Princeton,  Yale,  Harvard,  and  other  colleges, 
who  were  returning  to  their  homes  in  Honolulu. 
There  was  a  party  of  teachers  from  San  Fran- 
cisco, among  them  a  young  lady  who  received 
as  a  prize  for  popularity  the  tickets  for  the  round 
trip.  There  was  also  the  party  from  Los  An- 
geles, of  which  Mrs.  Field  was  one ;  and  there 
were  musicians  on  their  way  to  Australia  on  a 
professional  tour.  We  had  a  diversified  and 
altogether  an  interesting  company.  It  was  quite 
different  in  many  ways  from  the  groups  one 
meets  on  board  of  the  leading  Atlantic  liners. 


i. 


Nearing  the  Isi^ands. — Day  after  day  passed 
as  we  plow^ed  our  way  through  this  glorious 
sea.  Expectation  was  on  tiptoe  as  we  were  near- 
ing the  Hawaiian  Islands.  There  was  a  wonder- 
ful charm  in  being  far  out  on  this  pacific  sea ; 


Vo 


SAN    FRANCISCO   TO   HONOLULU 


31 


the  stars  never  seemed  so  bright,  the  breezes 
never  so  soft  and  alhiring.  Stirrinj^^  were  our 
emotions  when  we  first  saw  the  "  Southern 
Cross,"  and  tender  our  gratitude,  as  on  the  morn- 
ing of  the  sixth  day  we  got  our  first  glimpse  of 
Molokai.  This  island  is  widely  known  as  the 
abode  of  the  wretched  lepers,  who  unfortunately 
are  too  numerous  on  these  islands.  All  the 
morning  the  soft  breezes  kissed  our  cheeks. 
The  air  soon  became  laden  with  odors  of  tropical 
fruits  and  flowers,  and  birds  of  many  kinds 
came  out  to  greet  and  welcome  us.  It  seemed 
as  if  we  were  nearing  a  veritable  paradise  as  we 
approached  Honolulu.  We  had  read  much  of 
this  picturesque  and  delightful  land,  but  our 
realizations  soon  far  surpassed  our  anticipations. 
Some  one  has  expressed  this  wish  : 

Oh,  had  we  some  bright  little  isle  of  our  own, 
In  the  blue  summer  ocean,  far  off  alone. 

Well,  the  United  States  will,  we  believe,  soon 
have  this  wish  realized  here  in  these  tropical 
regions.  We  are  all  watching  for  the  island 
toward  which  we  are  making.  Yonder  is  Dia- 
mond Head  rising  grandly  from  the  sea  ;  it  is  a 
great  extinct  volcano.  Other  rocks  are  quickly 
seen,  but  they  promise  us  nothing  of  the  vernal 
vales  which  we  know  lie  beyond.  But  the  mo- 
ment the  ship  rounds  the  point  of  the  famous 
headland,  the  fairy-like  coast  is  revealed.  Here 
are  great  rocks  browned  by  the  bronze  of  the 
lava  which  centuries  ago  flowed  down  their 
sides ;  here  is  a  beach  of   dazzling  whiteness  ; 


32 


AROUND   TlIIv    WORLD 


here  arc  j^roves  of  cocoa  palms,  and  everywhere 
is  tlic  {glorious  sea,  like  a  huge  emerald,  as  it 
reflects  the  tints  from  its  coral  bottom.  Thus 
we  approach  Honolulu.  The  scene  changes. 
The  mountains  become  gloriously  green  ;  vistas 
of  Eden  open  to  our  gaze.  The  sea  rolls  in  its 
long  and  alluring  waves  upon  the  reef.  Within 
the  reef  the  water  is  tranquil  ;  it  is  a  tideless 
river.  There  lies  the  town.  Were  ever  before 
such  tints  seen  in  any  water?  To  what  shall 
they  be  compared?  They  look  as  if  one  of  the 
glorious  rainbows  so  common  in  this  tropical 
region  had  been  wrecked,  and  all  its  fragments 
were  lying  strewn  on  this  glorious  sea.  Never 
had  we  seen  such  colors  on  water.  We  may 
never  see  them  surpassed.  It  was  a  foretaste  of 
the  sea  of  glass. 

Our  students  are  wild  with  delight  as  their 
friends  rush  up  the  gang-plank.  Look  at  these 
groups  of  Hawaiian  boys  in  the  water.  They  are 
great  masculine — decidedly  masculine — water- 
nymphs.  They  are  out  for  the  opportunity  to 
dive  for  nickels  which  the  passengers  may  toss 
into  the  water.  Nickels  are  thrown.  The  boys 
dash  for  them,  swimming,  struggling,  diving. 
Up  they  come  with  the  nickels  in  their  mouths. 
Other  nickels  are  thrown,  and  the  process  is  re- 
peated until  the  ship  is  docked.  Yes,  this  is 
Honolulu.  See  the  groups  of  native  Hawaiians, 
barefooted  boys  and  girls  and  men.  See  the 
women  dressed  in  their  "mother-hubbards." 
The  missionary  women  taught  their  mothers  to 
wear  this  dress   in   exchange   for  the  garments 


SAN    FRANCISCO   TO    II0NOL,ULU 


33 


to 
toss 
:)ovs 


'llicr. 


i 


vvliicli  Mother  Nature  j;avc.  Now  tlicsc  dresses 
have  become  a  feature  iu  the  life  of  these  islauds. 
Observe  the  counuiugliuj^  of  races — Chiuese, 
Japanese,  Portuguese,  native  Hawaiiaus,  Ger- 
man, British,  and  American.  We  quickly  pass 
the  customs  and  soon  are  on  our  way  to  the 
hotel.  It  is  PViday  noon,  June  twenty-fnst. 
Balmy  is  the  air  ;  soft  and  sweet  is  every  breath. 
We  are  told  that  it  would  be  equally  balmy  if 
we  were  landing  in  January  instead  of  June. 
The  long-cherished  hope  has  reached  fruition  ; 
we  are  among  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

In  Honolulu. — No  sooner  is  our  room  se- 
cured than  we  are  out  to  see  the  strange  city. 
It  is  unique  ;  it  fascinates.  This  writer  comes, 
as  he  supposes,  as  a  stranger.  But  a  Honolulu 
welcome  is  an  experience  not  soon  to  be  for- 
gotten. Such  cordiality  cannot  l)e  surpassed. 
That  evening  calls  were  received  from  Rev. 
Douglass  Putnam  Birnie,  pastor  of  the  Central 
Union  Church  ;  from  Rev.  T.  D.  Garvin,  pastor 
of  the  Christian  Church  ;  and  on  Saturday  from 
Doctors  Hyde  and  Bingham,  and  Mrs.  Coan,  the 
widow  of  the  distinguished  Dr.  Titus  Coan. 
Saturday  a  long  drive  was  taken  with  Mr.  Gar- 
vin through  the  palm-shaded  streets  and  among 
the  tropical  charms  of  the  fields,  and  past  the 
beautiful  homes  of  wealth. 

Then  came  dinner  at  the  home  of  ]\Tr.  Bir- 
nie. Mr.  Birnie  was  a  student  in  the  Union 
Theological  Seminary,  New  York.  He  came 
here  a  few  months  ago  from  Boston.     His  posi- 

c 


r 


i: 

V 

■ 

I 

h 


34 


AkOlJNl)    THK    WORM) 


tion  here  is  difficult  and  corrcspondinj^ly  influ- 
ential. His  church  is  nominally  ii  union  church  ; 
it  is  really  a  Conj^rej^ational  church.  In  it  have 
been  and  are  members  of  Ha])tist  and  several 
other  churches ;  but  now  the  difTerent  denomi- 
nations are  beginnings  to  organize,  and  soon 
there  will  be  many  churches.  Mrs.  Hirnie  is  a 
New  York  lady,  and  is  .socially  and  religiously 
a  true  helpmeet  to  her  husband  in  his  responsi- 
ble position.  The  pastor  of  this  church  needs 
to  be  wise  as  a  serpent,  harmless  as  a  dove,  and 
yet  aggressive  as  a  lion. 

Most  interesting  was  it  at  table  to  eat  for  the 
first  *ime  the  /arOy  which  enters  in  many  forms 
so  largely  into  the  food,  both  of  V  native  and 
adopted  Hawaiians.     After  dinne  drove  to 

the  closing  entertainment  of  the  Kamehameha 
school  for  girls.  It  is  not  surprising  that  the 
Hawaiians  who  were  in  a  New  York  church 
some  time  ago  smiled  at  the  pastor's  pronuncia- 
tion of  that  word  ;  he  can  pronounce  it  more 
correctly  now.  Deeply  interesting  was  it  to 
reflect,  as  one  listened  to  the  recitations,  essays, 
and  other  exercises  of  these  girls,  that  two  gene- 
rations ago  their  fathers  and  motliers  were  naked 
savages.  Here  is  a  proof  of  the  value  of  missions. 
There  is  now  on  the  part  of  certain  classes  here 
criticism  of  the  missionaries  ;  but  let  it  be  remem- 
bered that  they,  with  God's  help,  have  trans- 
formed this  land.  They  have  made  parts  once 
a  desert,  and  marked  l3y  the  mirage,  literally 
blossom  as  the  rose.  Saturday  was  a  busy  and 
delightful  day. 


'i 


1 


i 


;1 


SAN    l-KANCISCO   TO   HONOLULU 


35 


A  HuSY  vSuNHAV. — Can  one  j^ct  away  from 
work  ?  A  Cliristian  luaii  in  j^ood  lualtli  ouj^ljt 
not  to  jj^ct  away  from  work.  Trnc  rest  is  in 
cluinj^e  of  work  and  scene  and  not  in  indolence. 
»Snnd;iy,  Jnne  twenty-tiiird,  was  especially  bnsy. 
One  mij^lit  fdl  colnmns  with  an  acconnt  of  the 
day's  work  and  the  historic  associations  which  it 
su«i^j^este(l ;  but  here  there  is  room  for  only  brief 
mention.  Under  the  jrnidancc  of  Rev.  ().  1*. 
Ivmerson,  corresponding^  secretary  of  the  Ha- 
waiian Hoard,  whose  knowledge  of  all  that  ])er- 
tains  to  these  islands  is  encyclopedic,  a  visit  at 
lo  A.  M.  was  made  to  the  Sunday-school  of  the 
Kawaihao  Church.  This  building  was  erected 
in  1839.  It  represents  the  very  heart  of  the 
religious  work  here.  It  is  intimately  associated 
witli  the  honored  names  of  Bingham,  Armstrong, 
Clarke,  and  Parker.  Hon.  W.  R.  Castle,  just 
appointed  minister  to  Washington,  is  the  stiperin- 
tendent  of  the  school.  As  we  arrived  he  was  en- 
tering on  his  duties  for  the  morning.  Here  Rev. 
Sereno  E.  Bishop,  the  author  of  tlie  recent  arti- 
cles on  Hawaii  in  the  "  Independent,"  was  met ; 
also  Rev.  J.  Kawlaune,  a  veteran  legislator  and 
once  a  pastor  ;  also  the  wife  of  Rev.  J.  K.  Josepa, 
a  man  who  stood  lieroically  against  the  corrup- 
tions of  the  royalist  period.  Back  of  the  church 
is  the  modest  burial  place  of  such  missionary 
heroes  as  Armstrong,  Castle,  Cooke,  and  other 
fathers  of  the  eariy  days. 

Then  we  hasten  to  the  Chinese  Sunday-school. 
This  mission  was  founded  by  Mr.  Damon.  It  is 
now  under  the  charge  of  his  son,  Mr,   F.  W. 


1^( 


fV 


36 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


Damon,  whose  brother,  Hon.  S.  M.  Damon,  is 
minister  of  finance.  Here  is  the  first  Chinese 
Younji;  Men's  Christian  Association  of  the  world. 
It  is  most  interesting  to  see  how  God  widens  the 
field  of  missionary  labors.  These  missionaries 
came  to  labor  for  native  Hawaiians,  and  now 
God  has  sent  to  this  field  tlionsands  of  Chinese, 
Japanese,  and  Portngnese.  Next  we  drove  to 
the  Japanese  mission.  This  work  was  begun  in 
1888.  The  Lyceum  was  generously  given  to 
the  work  by  the  Waterhouse  family.  Then  we 
passed  Queen  Kmma  Hall,  where  Mrs.  Coleman 
started  free  kindergarten  schools.  We  next 
visited  'he  native  Hawaiian  church,  called  the 
Kaumakapili,  built  by  the  missionary.  Rev. 
Lowell  Smith,  who  for  many  years  was  the 
pastor.  IMrs.  B.  Y.  Dillingham  was  the  super- 
intendent of  the  school.  Mr.  Emerson  was  the 
interpreter  of  the  brief  address  which  this  writer 
gave  here. 

Then  we  hastened  to  the  Central  Union 
Church,  wliere  the  writer  preached,  the  pastor. 
Rev.  D.  P.  Biruie,  leading  in  the  worship  This 
chr.rcli  was  recently  built  at  a  cost  of  one  bun- 
dled and  twenty-five  thousand  dollars;  it  is 
entirely  out  of  debt.  One  can  find  few  more 
intelligent  and  delightful  congregations.  Grad- 
uates of  many  of  our  leading  American  colleges 
are  found  in  the  audience.  Here  President 
Dole,  Chief  Justice  Judd,  senators,  representa- 
tives, and  many  others  prominent  in  the  political, 
social,  and  business  life  of  these  islands,  worship. 
This  has  been  called  the  "  court  "  church.    Great 


SAN    FRANCISCO   TO    HOMOMJI.U 


2>7 


HI,    IS 

iiiese 
^orld. 
IS  the 
laries 

now 
inese, 
ve  to 
iin  in 
in  to 
m  we 
eman 

next 
d  the 

Rev. 
IS  the 
super- 
is  the 
writer 

nion 

)astor, 

This 

hun- 

it    is 

more 

Grad- 

Icges 

ident 

senta- 


care  is  needed  at  this  critical  time  that  all  the 
affairs  of  the  church  be  wisely  managed  in  their 
relations  to  the  government  on  the  one  side,  and 
to  the  opposing  elements  on  the  other.  From 
this  church  go  the  money,  the  brain,  and  the 
management  of  much  of  the  missionary  work  in 
all  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

In  the  afternoon  we  visited  the  Portuguese 
school.  Tliis  school  delighted  the  heart,  but 
we  have  not  sufficient  space  to  speak  of  it  at 
length.  Then  we  drove  to  the  Lunalilo  Home, 
which  was  founded  l)y  King  Lunalilo  as  a  home 
for  asred  and  destitute  Hawaiians.  Here  another 
brief  address  was  made,  and  Mr.  Emerson  agani 
acted  as  interpreter.  On  our  way  back  we  took 
a  look  at  the  hospital. 

About  a  year  ago  Rev.  T.  D.  Garvin  came  from 
California  to  Honolulu.  He  found  that  there 
was  need  of  a  church  of  the  Disciples.  Soon  it 
was  organized,  taking  simply  the  name  Christian 
Church.  He  has  worked  heroically  and  success- 
fully. Already  a  goodly  n.anber  have  been  bap- 
tized. A  good  work  is  going  forward  among  the 
Japanese,  and  several  pror«inent  white  men  of 
various  nationalities  have  confessed  Christ  and 
been  baptized.  Worship  is  held  in  what  is  known 
as  Harmony  Hall.  Seldom  has  the  writer  more 
enjoyed  preaching  than  lie  did  here  on  this  Sun- 
day evening.  The  rooms  were  quite  full  and  the 
attention  was  close  and  the  spirit  of  the  service 
most  tender.  At  the  close  of  the  service  the 
Hon.  and  Mrs.  Albert  S.  Willis  were  met.  Mr. 
Willis  is  envoy  extraordinary  and  minister  plen- 


I'' 


11'; 


38 


AROUND   TIIK    WORLD 


ipotentiary  of  the  United  States  of  America — 
such  is  the  full  title — to  this  Republic.  They 
were  present  at  the  morning  service  also.  Mr. 
Willis  belongs  to  the  Christian  Church.  He 
enjoys  the  confidence  and  esteem  of  all  classes 
here,  alike  for  his  worth  as  a  man  and  for  his 
wisdom  as  American  minister. 

Sunday  was  a  busy  day ;  Monday  is  scarcely 
less  so.  The  "Australia"  goes  back  this  after- 
noon to  San  Francisco,  and  all  mail  matter  must 
scon  be  on  board.  No  one  is  lonely  in  this  lovely 
land.  This  is  lotus-land  indeed ;  here  Tennyson 
might  have  located  his  lotus-eaters.  Friends  are 
met  constantly.  '•  How  do  you  do?  I  heard  you 
four  weeks  ago  in  your  own  pulpit."  Another 
says,  "I  heard  your  last  sermon  in  Boston  last 
summer";  another,  "I  knew  you  by  your  picture 
in  the  '  Christian  Elerald.' "  To-morrow  we  start 
for  our  visit  to  the  volcano.  This  journey  will 
take  a  week ;  then  back  for  the  "  glorious 
Fourth";  then  a  lecture  for  the  Young  Men's 
Christian  Association,  and  other  addresses. 


It/ 


I 


11 


ii 


I 


I  I 


IV 


VISITING  THE   VOLCANO 

\17E   left   Honolulu   on   Tuesday,  June  25 

u^-  ^n  ^n,'  ^'^  """  ^''^^^^  ^^^e  ^^"le  steamer 
Kinau  The  trip  is  toward  the  windward 
islands  of  the  group,  and  of  these  Hawaii,  with 
Its  fountain  of  everlasting  fire,  is  the  largest. 
The  island  of  Hawaii  gives  its  name  to  the  en- 
tire group.  Prof.  James  D.  Dana,  whose  recent 
death  has  caused  genuine  sorrow,  not  only  in  the 
United  States,  but  tliroughout  the  world,  visited 
this  island  in  1841,  and  a  second  time  in  1887 
He  made  a  careful  study  of  the  volcanoes  here,  as 
also  those  of  the  rest  of  the  world.  To  him  the 
world  owes  much  for  his  careful  investigations 
and  his  admirable  descriptions. 

The  passengers  from  Honolulu  to  Hilo  were 
a  strangely  assorted  company.  In  the  steerage 
were  Chinese,  Japanese,  Portuguese,  and  native 
Hawaiian  men,  women,  and  children.  They 
ay  about  promiscuously  among  their  bags  and 
bundles.  When  seasick  they  were  bo^h  an 
ainusing  and  a  pitiable  assortment  of  humanity. 
Ihere  was  also  an  interesting  company  of  boys 
and  girls  from  the  Kamehameha  schools,  from 
Oahu  College,  and  from  still  other  institutions 
of  learning  in  Honolulu.     These  young  people 

39 


■I 


40 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


were  of  all  shades  of  color,  and  of  as  many  r?  ^ ; 
one  was  a  prince  from  Ponape,  one  of  the  Caro- 
line Islands.  Althongh  not  of  Hawaiian  blood, 
an  exception  was  made  in  his  case,  and  he  was 
admitted  into  a  school  intended  especially  for 
tlie  children  of  the  native  Hawaiians. 

A  most  interesting  passenger  is  a  gentleman 
who  bears  the  na?ne  of  a  distinguished  family  in 
Kentucky,  Rev.  Stephen  h.  Desha.  This  is  a 
well-known  Kentucky  name,  and  the  name  has 
a  remarkable  history  in  connection  with  this 
worthy  gentleman.  There  is  a  story  of  a  wild 
life  in  Kentucky  and  elsewhere  in  the  "States"; 
then  a  grave  crime  was  suspected ;  a  duel  was 
fought ;  then  a  hasty  flight ;  then  a  long  silence. 
Then  an  American  married  a  Hawaiian  woman 
on  the  island  of  Maui.  Several  ciJldren  were 
born ;  the  eldest  was  Stephen.  When  he  was 
but  fourteen  his  father  died  ;  but  the  boy  was 
educated  in  missionary  schools,  was  early  con- 
verted, and  in  due  time  was  ordained  as  a  preacher 
among  the  natives.  His  second  pastorate  was  at 
Hilo  (pronounce  the  vowels  after  the  continental 
method)  where  he  was  greatly  honored  for  his 
worth  and  work.  He  is  fair-haired  and  light  of 
complexion  and  has  blue  eyes.  He  laughingly 
says  that  the  natives  always  speak  of  him  as 
having  a  cat's  eyes.  He  married  a  Hawaiian 
woman.  She  is  now  dead,  but  there  are  four 
children  ;  two  of  them  quite  dark,  two  compar- 
atively light.  He  had  been  to  Honolulu  to  at- 
tend the  meeting  of  the  Hawaiian  Board  of  Mis- 
sions ;  he  then  remained  two  weeks  to  bring  his 


■I 
.1 


VISITING   THE   VOI.CANO 


41 


1) 


and  other  children  home  from  their  schools.  It 
was  interesting,  and  a  little  pathetic,  to  see  this 
noble  man  with  his  "  dusky "  and  motherless 
children.  He  is  a  great  power  in  all  these 
islands.  His  use  of  Hrglish  is  reasonably  good, 
and  he  often  acts  as  an  interpreter  and  always  as 
a  mediator  between  the  native  Hawaiians  and 
the  Americans.  His  children  constantly  spoke 
English,  and  sang  college  songs  familiar  in  all 
American  schools  and  colleges.  He  fears  that 
his  children  will  entirely  forget  their  mother 
and  their  mother's  tongue.  He  was  an  agreeable 
companion,  and  his  information  regarding  the 
islands,  their  strange  history,  and  their  wild  tra- 
ditions, was  as  useful  as  it  was  interesting. 

The  wife  of  the  Rev.  C.  W.  Hill,  of  Hilo,  was 
another  passenger,  and  she  also  was  returning 
from  the  meeting  of  the  Hawaiian  Board.  Her 
husband  is  pastor  of  the  Foreign  Hilo  Church, 
that  is,  the  church  made  up  of  all  who  are  not 
Hawaiians,  and  including  Americans,  Scotch, 
English,  and  others  who  have  found  a  home  in 
Hilo.  There  were  also  native  Hawaiians  in  the 
first  cabin,  some  of  whom  were  said  to  be  stout 
royalists,  and  so  not  in  sympathy  with  the  re- 
public ;  but  they  were  submissive  in  their  obe- 
dience and  very  cautious  in  their  speech.  Mr. 
Eugene  Koop,  of  New  York,  who  had  been  a 
fellow-passenger  on  the  "Australia"  from  San 
Francisco,  was  the  writer's  cabin  mate.  There 
were  Americans  on  their  way  to  sugar  planta- 
tions and  to  other  places  of  industry  in  Hawaii. 

There  was  also  with  us  Miss  Carter,  of  Hon- 


42 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


\U 


t:  \ 


olnlu,  the  sister  of  the  late  Hon.  Charles  L. 
Carter,  who  visited  Washington  in  the  interests 
of  the  islands,  and  who  was  shot  during  the  re- 
cent rebellion.  His  death  saddened  the  people 
of  all  shades  of  political  opinion.  He  was  a  bril- 
liant young  man,  and  he  left  a  wife  and  two 
young  children.  Miss  Carter  is  the  niece  of 
Chief  Justice  Judd,  and  is  an  enthusiastic  Ha- 
waiian. Although  she  has  traveled  in  many 
countries  she  always  returns  with  glowing  pa- 
triotism to  her  island  home. 

MoLOKAi. — Soon  after  leaving  Honolulu  we 
entered  the  channel  between  the  islands  of  Oahu 
and  Molokai,  where  the  water  was  rough  and 
many  passengers  became  ill.  The  "  Kinau  "  is 
no  doubt  a  great  improvement  on  her  predeces- 
sor, the  "lyike  Like,"  whose  passengers  mostly 
camped  out  on  deck  ;  the  "  Kinau  "  has  state- 
rooms and  reasonable  comforts.  But  it  now 
rolled  and  pitched,  and  pitched  and  rolled,  until 
there  was  an  absence  of  passengers  from  the 
decks,  and  silence  reigned  throughout  the  ship. 
Before  evening  we  passed  Molokai,  the  mysteri- 
ous home  of  the  exiled  lepers.  Leprosy  abounds 
in  these  islands,  about  one  out  of  every  hundred 
natives  being  so  afflicted.  The  disease  is  closely 
associated  with  other  diseases,  and  especially 
with  one  other  on  which  the  curse  of  God  pecu- 
liarly rests.  The  visits  of  sailors  from  many 
countries  and  for  several  generations,  and  the 
violation  of  moral  laws  incident  to  these  visits, 
together  with  poor  living  and  many  forms  of 


r.  I 


j 

i 

,1 


I 


VISITING   THK   VOLCANO 


43 


IS 


|aiiy 
the 

nts, 
of 


violation  of  sanitary  laws,  will  account  for  the 
prevalence  of  this  fearful  disease.  It  seems  now 
to  be  a  taint  in  the  Hawaiian  blood.  It  is  re- 
ceiving the  most  careful  study  of  medical  experts 
in  all  parts  of  the  world  ;  tliere  is  a  hospital  in 
Honolulu  in  which  experiments  are  constantly 
made.  The  disease  is  closely  watched,  and  the 
Board  of  Health  will  leave  no  method  of  cure 
untried.  But  few  Ano;lo-Saxons  have  been  at- 
tacked, the  victims  being^  mostly  Hawaiians, 
Portuguese,  and  natives  of  different  islands  in 
the  Pacific;  and  the  victims  are,  for  the  most 
part,  those  whose  violations  of  sanitary  and  moral 
laws  made  them  susceptible  to  almost  any  foul 
disease.  The  Protestant  people  of  Honolulu — 
especially  those  of  the  missionary  circles — have 
done  much  for  the  lepers ;  they  have  built  homes 
and  furnished  nurses  and  religious  workers.  The 
Romanists  have  done  the  minimum  of  labor,  but 
have  reaped  the  maximum  of  honor.  They 
claim,  and  doubtless  justly,  the  majority  of  the 
victims.  The  newspapers  at  the  time  of  Father 
Damien's  death  gave  broad  hints  as  to  his  life 
and  the  manner  in  which  it  was  believed  that 
he  had  contracted  the  disease ;  these  hints  are 
emphatically  repeated  here.  No  one  wishes  to 
detract  from  the  l^onor  due  to  the  Roman  Church 
for  her  work  here,  but  neither  ought  any  one  to 
fail  to  give  honor  to  Protestants,  to  whose  liber- 
ality this  place  of  refuge  is  so  largely  indebted, 
and  who  to-day  furnish  noble  nurses  and  pastors 
to  live  with  and  labor  for  the  victims  of  this 
fearful  disease. 


\\ 


44 


AROTJND    THK    WORLD 


i,. 


Othp:r  Islands. — We  pass  near  Maui,  Lanai, 
and  Kahoolavve.  At  Laliaina  on  Maui  we  drop 
anchor.  This  village  has  been  described  as  "a 
little  slice  of  civilization  beached  on  the  shore  of 
barbarism."  It  is  a  drowsy  and  dreamy  village, 
with  only  one  street,  and  that  one  with  but  one 
side,  for  the  sloping  sands  of  the  sea  form  its 
lower  edge.  There  are  houses  overhung  with 
green  trees  and  with  hammocks  invitingly  swung 
in  the  verandas.  It  is  truly  a  tropical  scene 
which  this  quaint  village  presents.  Once  it  was 
a  favorite  resort  of  the  Kamehamehas,  whose 
name  is  associated  with  all  that  is  most  heroic 
in  the  history  of  these  seagirt  isles.  I  have  found 
a  poem  on  Lahaina,  from  which  a  few  character- 
istic lines  are  selected : 


;  ! 


Where  the  new-comer 
In  deathless  summer 
Dreams  away  troubles  ; 
When  the  grape  blossoms 
And  blows  its  sweet  bubbles  ; 

Where  from  the  long  leaves 
The  fresh  dew  is  shaken  ; 
Where  the  wind  sleeps 
And  where  the  birds  waken. 

The  next  morning  we  are  at  Maalaea  and  soon 
at  Makena.  Yonder,  far  above,  is  Ulupalakua, 
"  ripe  bread-fruit  for  the  gods."  It  rises  two  thou- 
sand feet  above  us,  and  its  cool  air  comes  down 
to  temper  the  heat  of  the  tropical  sun.  Here  is 
Kawaihae, — the  spelling  begins  to  be  less  diffi- 
cult,— with  the  ruins  of  the  great  stone  temple. 


li 


'I 


VISITING   TIIK   VOLCANO 


45 


or  ^''/iciau^''''  to  the  j^^ods  which  once  stood  on  the 
shore.  Every  spot  is  sn^j^cstive  of  the  great  bat- 
tles of  the  Kamehaniehns,  and  Mr.  Desha  repeats 
the  stirring  traditions  of  the  wild  days  in  the 
remote  past.  Near  here  is  a  great  cattle  ranch 
owned  by  an  American  named  IMorris,  and  near 
here  are  also  some  large  sngar  plantations.  At 
Kealakekna,  on  the  west  coast  of  Hawaii,  Cap- 
tain Cook  was  killed  by  the  natives  in  1779,  and 
there  a  monument  has  been  erected  to  him.  The 
place  is  interesting  also  geologically  on  account 
of  the  great  cliffs  which  face  the  sea. 

At  different  places  in  the  vicinity  we  discharge 
freight  and  livestock,  the  latter  being  literally 
dropped  into  the  sea.  At  one  place,  tliere  being 
no  docks  at  any  of  these  landings,  a  rope  was 
connected  with  the  ship  and  worked  by  a  donkey- 
engine  on  the  shore,  and  mules  were  pushed  into 
the  sea,  falling  with  a  great  splash.  On  coming 
up  they  struggled  to  get  into  the  boat  which  the 
rope  was  hauling  to  the  shore,  but  the  sailors 
firmly  held  their  heads,  the  rope  was  rapidly 
pulled  and  the  boats  with  the  mules,  swimming 
and  splashing,  was  speedily  dragged  to  the  shore. 
Perhaps  they  were  more  frightened  than  hurt, 
but  they  certainly  were  very  much  frightened 
and  the  entire  process  seemed  very  cruel. 


Hawaii. — At  Kawaihae  we  first  touched  the 
island  of  Hawaii.  This  island  is  nearly  trian- 
gular ;  its  greatest  length  from  north  to  south  is 
ninety-three  miles,  and  its  extreme  width  is 
eighty  miles.     Its  mountain  slopes,  as  a  rule,  are 


46 


AKOUND    TlIK    VVONM) 


1^ 


<  ' 


ofcntle ;  it  has  five  volcanic  niouiitains,  and  is 
marked  by  an  almost  entire  al)sence  of  rivers, 
except  on  the  north  and  northeast  slopes.  The 
side  of  the  island  as  we  api)n)aeh  liilo  is  a  series 
of  magnificent  precipices  ;  sometimes  they  over- 
\mn<^  the  sea  ;  sometimes  they  are  perpendicular. 
One's  gaze  is  fascinated  by  this  remarkable  coast- 
line as  the  boat  advances.  We  soon  reach,  as  the 
evening  of  the  second  day  comes  on,  the  glorions 
valley  of  Waipio.  Between  green  and  lofty 
heights  are  verdant  valleys.  In  a  distance  of 
abont  sixty  miles  there  are  ninety-two  ravines, 
and  in  each  ravine  there  is  a  torrent  rnshing 
down  to  the  sea.  Some  of  these  torrents  are 
snperb  cascades,  one  of  them  making  a  leap  of 
eleven  thonsand  seven  hundred  feet  from  the 
clouds  and  falling  into  a  forest  of  bread-fruit 
trees.  After  every  heavy  shower  these  streams 
leap  over  the  rocks  and  fall  into  the  deep  valley. 
One  traveler  speaks  of  this  region  as  a  veritable 
realization  of  the  dream  of  the  lotus-eaters  as 
given  by  Tennyson : 


'1 


In  the  afternoon  they  came  unto  a  land, 

In  which  it  seemed  always  afternoon. 

All  round  the  coast  the  languid  air  did  swoon, 

Breathing  like  one  that  hath  a  weary  dream. 

f\ill-faced  above  the  valley  stood  the  moon  ; 

And  like  a  downward  smoke,  the  slender  stream 

Along  the  cliff  to  fall  and  pause  and  fall  did  seem. 


'       I     • 


A  land  of  streams  !     Some,  like  a  downward  smoke, 
Slow-dropping  veils  of  thinnest  lawn,  did  go  ; 
And  some  thro'  wavering  lights  and  shadows  broke, 
Rolling  a  slumbrous  sheet  of  foam  below. 


; 


VISITING   TIIK    VOLCANO 


47 


IS 


Ike. 
he. 


They  saw  the  gleaming'  river  seaward  tlow 

From  the  inner  land  :  far  off,  three  mountain-tops, 

Three  silent  pinnacles  of  aged  snow. 

Stood  sunset-llushed  :  and,  dew' d  with  showery  drops, 

Up-clomb  the  shadowy  pine  above  the  woven  topse. 

In  the  main  this  description  is  accnrate ;  it 
wonld  seem  as  if  it  had  been  written  for  this 
phice.  Near  here  tlie  boat  stopped,  and  in  the 
darkness,  tossing  abont  in  the  landinj;^  boat,  a 
lady  with  nnrse  and  baby  left  ns.  She  with  her 
baby  in  her  arms  was  to  ride  a  horse  for  two 
hours  over  the  gulches  to  her  home.  She  left  ns 
joyfully ;  indeed,  the  fate  which  one  should  en- 
counter would  have  to  be  fearful  not  to  be  better 
than  tossing^  about  on  our  lioat  as  she  lay  here  in 
the  trough  of  the  waves. 

Arriving  at  H11.0. — We  try  to  hold  our- 
selves in  our  berths  by  pressinjj;^  our  knees  on 
one  side  and  our  backs  on  the  other  as  we  voyage 
on  to  Hilo,  our  port  of  destination.  The  boat  is 
advertised  to  make  the  trip  in  twenty-four  hours, 
but  it  took  us  thirty-six.  The  boats  are  espe- 
cially intended  to  carry  freig^ht,  and  they  often 
wait  long-  to  load  and  to  unload.  At  2  A.  M.  we 
were  aroused.  This  was  Hilo.  Down  the  sway- 
ing- ladder  we  descended  and  into  the  dancing 
boat  we  jum])cd  or  fell.  It  is  abominable  that 
there  is  no  wharf  at  the  second  largest  place  on 
the  Hawaiian  Islands.  It  is  no  easy  matter  to 
be  very  amiable  at  2  A.  M.  in  these  circumstances. 
Up  another  swaying  ladder  we  climbed,  then 
into  a  carriage  for  the  hotel.     There  was  no  one 


.ill 


l'         I 


48 


AROUND   TIIK    WOULD 


to  receive  tis.  We  tried  a  door;  it  opened.  We 
entered;  it  was  a  l)edrooni, — ^ood.  We  tried 
anotiier  door ;  it  opened ;  another  l)edrooin, — j^ood 
aji^ain.  We  took  i)ossession,  went  to  bed,  and 
soon  were  asleep.  At  seven  we  were  np,  and  at 
eij^lit  we  were  in  the  lumbering  stage-coach  for 
the  Volcano  House. 

Thh  Cratkr  ok  Kilauka. — Until  recently 
the  trip  from  Hilo  to  the  crater  of  Kilauea  was 
a  horseback  ride  of  thirty  miles,  but  now  there 
is  a  reasonably  good  road  the  entire  distance.  It 
was  made  and  is  kept  in  repair  by  the  political 
and  other  prisoners.  Through  the  straggling 
town  of  Hilo  we  drive ;  then  past  acres  of  sugar 
plantations ;  then  through  other  acres  of  coflee 
fields.  Slowly  we  climbed.  Wonderful  was 
the  luxuriance  of  this  tropical  forest.  Great  va- 
rieties of  tropical  trees  were  on  each  hand,  and 
parasitical  plants  of  many  kinds  clustered  in 
rank  growths  around  the  trees.  In  four  jiours 
we  reached  tl  •  Half-way  House,  where  luncheon 
was  served  and  the  horses  were  changed.  The 
round-trip  tickets  include  all  expenses  until  we 
return  to  Honolulu.  This  house  was  kept  by  a 
young  man  who  once  lived  near  Chicago.  Could 
anything  be  more  lonely  than  his  life  now  ?  We 
passed  huts  of  a  few  feet  square  in  which  natives 
lived.  Then  we  reached  tasteful  and  really 
pretty  homes  in  a  clearing.  The  head  of  the 
house  came  out  for  his  mail.  Sometimes  he 
was  a  Portuguese,  but  usually  he  was  an  Ameri- 
can.    See  his  ornate  grounds,  the  rich  tropical 


'  i^ 


i\ 


VISITINd   Tm-    VOLCANO 


^9 


plants  with  their  ;;rcat  leaves  and  bri<;ht  colors. 
Sec  also  his  tree-fern  walks, — a  soft,  dry,  and 
comparatively  durable  walk, — his  neat  fences 
and  {^•ates.  He  has  a  little  coffee  patch  near  the 
cottage,  and,  within,  an  American  wife  with  her 
children.  It  was  all  very  stranj^^e  ;  it  seemed 
almost  a  dream.  See  the  joy  of  these  men  as 
they  ^ct  the  foreij^n  mail,  a  mail  from  the 
"States."  How  much  these  letters  mean  !  How 
much  this  local  paper  from  the  old  home  and 
the  other  papers  from  the  j^^reat  city!  Up  we 
climb;  the  seats  are  ^ettinj^  hard  and  our  backs 
tired.     But  here  we  are  at  the  Volcano  House. 

It  is  a  ji^ood  hotel,  and  is  under  the  direction 
of  the  steamship  company.  We  are  on  the  brink 
of  the  crater  of  Kilauea.  We  have  cliin])ed  four 
thousand  four  hundred  and  forty  feet  above  the 
sea  level  since  ei^ht  o'clock  this  morning.  The 
air  is  very  bracinj^^  and  cool.  Overcoats  while 
riding-  were  comfortable.  We  notice  fires  in  the 
office  and  parlor  of  the  hotel  on  this  Thursday, 
June  27,  in  this  island  of  the  Pacific  below  the 
Tropic  of  Cancer,  a  wonderful  chan^^-e  in  the  air 
since  we  left  Hilo.  It  is  no  wonder  that  the 
people  come  up  here  from  all  parts  of  the  coun- 
try for  coolness  and  rest.  Some  of  our  party  are 
to  return  with  the  first  sta^e-coach  of  the  morn- 
ing-, so  we  hasten  to  visit  the  crater.  Let  us 
stand  and  look  about  us  before  we  descend. 
Yonder  is  Mauna  Kea,  thirteen  thousand  eight 
hundred  and  five  feet  high,  crowned  with  snow, 
Kea  meaning  white.  Here  is  Mauna  Loa,  thir- 
teen thousand  six  hundred  and  seventy-five  feet, 

I) 


i<l 


f 

■  I 
'J 


.1 


50 


AROUND   THK   WCRLD 


V 


f'     * 


/    ' 


»i     :' 


!     ) 


\        < 


Mi 


Oil  whose  top  is  an  old  crater  which  is  occasion- 
ally active.  Here  is  Hualalai,  meaning  hot 
monntain,  and  at  our  feet  is  KiKinea. 

One  is  tempted  to  enlarge  on  the  history  of 
these  mountains,  especially  on  that  of  Kilauea, 
with  Professor  Dana's  charming  history  as  a 
guide,  but  only  a  few  facts  will  be  given.  Prof. 
C.  H.  Hitchcock  visited  the  crater  in  1886, 
and  in  "Science"  of  1887  he  gives  an  account 
of  his  visit.  The  recorded  history  of  the  crater 
begins  with  August,  1823,  when  some  missiona- 
ries visited  it.  The  readei"  is  referred  to  Professor 
Datia's  volume  published  by  Dodd,  ]\Iead  &  Co., 
New  York. 

From  our  position  at  the  hotel  we  see  a  lake 
of  blc^ck  lava  lying  nine  hundred  feet  below, 
which  is  nine  miles  in  circumference.  At  its 
remoter  end  is  a  pot  from  which  smoke  is  ascend- 
ing in  great  volumes.  Down  the  zigzag  trail 
the  guide  leads  three  of  us,  another  being  on 
horseback.  Over  the  sea  of  lava  in  its  various 
formations  we  pass,  a  sea  that  once  was  of  seeth- 
ing fire.  We  feel  the  lava  hot  beneath  our  feet. 
Under  this  crust  is  imprisoned  the  molten  mass 
which  often  has  spouted  forth  its  streams  of  fire 
from  its  terrible  fountains  below.  In  1880  lava 
streams  were  thrown  hundreds  of  feet  into  the 
air.  But  on  July  7,  1891,  tlie  crater  settled  six 
hundred  feet  below  its  ordinary  level.  On  De- 
cember 6,  1894,  the  fire  last  appeared ;  since 
tiien  the  volcano  has  not  been  active.  It  has 
been,  so  to  speak,  "  on  strike  "  since  that  date. 
Some  of  the  natives  say  that  the  goddess  Pele, 


i 


'vl 


VISITING    THK    VOLCAXO 


51 


SIX 

De- 

tince 
has 

Bate. 
*ele, 


the  patroness  of  the  ciatcr,  is  in  sympathy  with 
the  deposed  Lilinokakxni.  lUit  as  one  looks  at 
tliis  lava  lake,  or  into  the  awful  inferno  of  the 
crater,  he  can  well  imaoine  what  it  all  must  be 
when  fully  active.  Steam  still  rises  from  fis- 
sures, and  pieces  of  wood  burned  as  we  stuck 
them  into  the  blow-holes.  Leaping  over  the 
crevices,  passing  fiery  blow-holes,  we  finally 
came  to  tlie  l)rink  of  the  crater,  where  waves  of 
liquid  fire  often  dash  on  the  shore.  This  is  the 
corner  known  as  "  Ilalcniaunniii^^^  "  the  house  of 
everlasting  fire."  Wlicn  this  crater  is  doing  its 
best  it  utterly  dwarfs  all  others.  Tlien  Vesuvius 
and  ^Etna  are  a  child's  bonfire  compared  with 
this  terrific  sea  of  liquid  fire  and  flame. 

The  next  morning  we  visited  the  extinct 
crater  Kilaueaiki,  //'/meaning  little.  This  is  a 
crater  of  great  interest.  The  extinct  crater  of 
Ilalcakala,  "  the  house  of  the  sun,"  is  the  largest 
extinct  crater  in  the  world,  as  Kilauca  is  the 
largest  active  volcano.  This  extinct  one  is  said 
to  rear  its  dome  ten  thousand  feet  above  the  sea. 
Here  in  the  midst  of  these  terrific  monsters  of 
nature,  o'le  is  profoundly  impressed  with  the 
ignoranc^^  of  even  the  most  advanced  science 
regarding  tlies<'  mysteries.  To  this  region  it  is 
a  journey  of  crnly  two  weeks  from  New  York 
and  three  from  lM]if<'/pe,  artd  soon,  without  doubt, 
it  will  be  a  favorite  resort  for  tourists  from  all 
parts  of  tlie  world.  f{cre  the  mighty  power 
and  the  sublime  majesty  of  "  the  Creator  of  the 
ends  of  the  earth  "  are  imprej>«ively  seen. 


•I' 
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■  11 

:\ 

«     I 

( 


u 


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V 


'  '  '   I. 


HII.O   AND   THE    ISLANDS 

RETURN  TO  HILO.— On  Saturday  morn- 
ing-, June  29,  throug'li  the  courtesy  of  Dr. 
(Miss)  Frances  Wetmore,  who  studied  medicine 
in  Philadelphia,  and  who  now  practises  in  Hilo, 
the  return  to  Hilo  was  made  in  her  carriage, 
drawn  by  fleet  ponies.  This  was  a  welcome 
change  from  the  rough  stage-coach.  It  also 
gave  an  additional  day  at  the  crater  and  an 
opportunity  for  a  carriage  ride  in  the  vicinity. 
Hilo  ranks  next  in  size  to  Honolulu,  the  popula- 
tion of  the  town  being  three  tliousand  and  that 
of  the  disrrict  above  five  thousand.  Its  houses 
ace  half  hidden  among  palms  and  bread-fruit 
trees.  Rain  falls  here  with  great  frequency,  and 
the  entire  appearance  of  the  place  is  tropical  to 
an  unusual  degree.  Perhaps  it  is  the  most  beau- 
tiful of  Hawaiian  hamlets.  A  crescent  row  of 
houses  faces  the  shore.  It  is  said  that  many  of 
the  people  have  little  else  to  do  than 

To  watch  the  crisping  ripples  on  the  beach, 
The  tender  curving  lines  of  creamy  spray. 


On  the  way  we  had  the  opportunity  of  exam- 
ining  specimens   of    breadfruit,  mango,  guava, 
banana,  papaya,  palm,  tree-fern,  rubber  tree,  the 
52 


i  I 
■  t) 


K\ 


HlhO   AND   THP:    islands 


53 


1. ; 


indig^o  plant,  bamboo,  and  still  other  productions 
of  this  luxuriant  tropical  climate.  Dr.  Wetmore 
was  born  on  the  island,  and  has  been  a  careful 
student  of  botany  as  well  as  of  medicine. 

Almost  in.imediately  upon  our  arrival,  through 
the  courtesy  of  Rev.  C.  W.  Hill  and  Rev.  Stephen 
Desha,  horses  were  provided,  and,  accompanied 
by  these  excellent  friends,  we  visited  the  Rain- 
bo  *r  Waterfall,  saw  the  flume  in  which  the  sugar- 
cane is  quickly  borne  by  water  to  the  mills,  and 
the  three  hills  which  once  were  craters,  and  then 
we  galloped  off  to  Cocoanut  Island.  What  a 
fine  dash  we  made  with  our  ponies  as  we  reached 
the  hard  sand  on  the  crescent  beach  !  Did  we 
race  ?  Wf^ll,  we  soon  reached  the  island.  It  is 
just  across  the  bay  from  Plilo,  and  it  is  a  gem  of 
beauty.  Its  Hawaiian  name  is  Mokuola,  a  name 
which  means  "island  of  health  or  life."  This 
name  was  given  it  because  of  a  rock  which  was 
suppo.sed  to  be  possessed  of  health-giving  proper- 
ties. The  superstition  was,  and  perhaps  is,  that 
any  one  who  was  ill  would  be  immediately 
he:  led  by  swimming  three  times  imder  water 
around  this  ''ock.  Some  natives  come  even  now 
and  make  ti..  trial,  expecting  to  be  cured  of 
various  diseases.  Tradition  savs  that  Kalaniku- 
pule,  the  last  king  of  Oahu,  came  to  this  island, 
slew  the  king\s  warriors,  and  bore  away  his 
daughter  to  become  his  bride. 

We  saw  also  the  great  luva  fields  of  Hilo.  In 
1880  Manna  Loa  sent  onat  rbr  nine  months  a 
river  of  redhot  lava  which  flowed  toward  Hilo 
and  the  sea.     Its  progress  wa^  slow,  but  it  pushed 


11 


r. 


.} 


■  i 
.i.n 


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1    / 


l< 


54 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


forward.  Visitors  came  in  g^reat  inimbers  and 
camped  near.  The  air  qnivered,  the  forests 
blazed,  the  dreadful  river  flowed  toward  the 
town.  Hilo  was  in  terrible  danger,  and  the 
people  lived  in  awful  suspense,  ready  at  a  mo- 
ment's notice  to  leave  their  homes.  The  ignorant 
and  superstitious  believe  that  the  town  was  saved 
through  the  intercession  of  the  late  Princess 
Ruth  Keelikolani,  who  made  a  pilgrimage  to 
the  lava  stream  and  paid  propitiatory  offerings 
by  sacrificing  swine  to  Pele,  the  goddess  of  the 
volcano.  The  stream  suddenly  ceased  to  flow 
after  having  made  a  devastating  track  of  nearly 
fifty  miles. 

Sunday  in  Hilo. — Hilo  is  a  restful  place, 
nway  from  the  noisy  world.  Its  chief  event  is 
the  weekly  arrival  from  Honolulu  of  the  steamer, 
with  news  of  the  outer  world.  But  some  men 
get  rest  in  work.  It  was  arranged  before  going 
to  the  volcano  that  the  writer  should  preach  in 
Hilo  on  vSnnday,  June  30.  Why  not  preach?  It 
is  a  joy  to  fxalt  Christ  and  to  be  of  any  help  to 
men.  At  quarter  past  ten  a  short  address  was 
delivered  in  the  Portuguese  Sunday-school,  the 
pastor,  Rev.  R.  K.  Baptiste,  translating.  At 
half  past  ten  aii^aher  address  in  the  old  native 
Hawaiian  Church,  the  pastor.  Rev.  Stephen  L. 
Desha,  being  interpreter. 

This  is  the  old  church  in  which  the  honored 
and  nuw  sainted  "P'ather"  Titus  Coan  preached. 
This  ground  is  h'^toric.  Near  the  church  came 
the  natives,  two  generations  ago,  to  a  great  grass 


,ii: 


as 
le 


L. 


HILO    AND    THP:    ISLANDS 


55 


tabernacle,  to  ^ive  up  their  idols,  to  hear  the  gos- 
pel, and  to  receive  Christ.  They  remained  a 
month  at  a  time  in  a  feast  of  tabernacles.  A 
continuous  revival,  such  as  has  never  been  seen 
since  Pentecost,  except  in  tlie  Baptist  mission 
among  the  Telugus,  was  enjoyed.  Thousands 
confessed  Christ.  "F'ather"  Coan  would  often 
preach  nearly  all  day.  To  the  natives  he  often 
seemed  more  of  a  deity  than  a  man.  He  and 
"Father"  Lyman  sleep  in  the  cemetery  near  the 
church.  His  widow,  the  second  IVIrs.  Coan,  lives 
in  Honolulu.  The  stories  of  his  preaching  tours 
read  like  the  records  of  another  Apostle  Paul. 
Death  and  emigration  have  reduced  the  popula- 
tion, but  Mr.  Desha  ministers  to  a  noble  com- 
pany of  natives  in  this  church. 

At  eleven  the  service  began  in  the  "  foreign  " 
church  ;  here  Americans,  Scotchmen, — who  are 
very  successful  business  men  here, — and  other 
English-speaking  Christians  worship.  About  a 
year  ago  Mr.  Hill  became  the  pastor,  coming 
from  California  to  take  up  the  work.  He  holds 
services  in  the  afternoon  at  a  ranch  some  dis- 
tance out  of  the  town.  In  the  evening  the  four 
churches,  Portuguese,  Hawaiian,  Japanese,  and 
English-speaking,  met  in  "Father"  Coan's  old 
church  and  the  writer  spoke  at  considerable 
length,  his  remarks  being  translated  the  next 
Sunday  by  Pastors  Baptiste  and  Desha,  and  the 
Japanese  pastor,  to  their  respective  peoples.  The 
singing  of  a  choir  of  native  Hawaiian  boys  was 
truly  fine.  The  Hawaiians  are  naturally  musical. 
It  was  not  an  idle  Sunday,  but  a  happy  one. 


l! 


r 


I 


'i\\ 


]i 


56 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


Mv 


I'  . ' 


f  i  ■ 


I 


■I ' 
•1 


I  / 1 


)M 


\  ! 


1  t 


Hi  , 


I      I 
i 

1 


It  was  a  great  pleasure  to  meet  at  the  service 
and  elsewhere  Rev.  Charles  H.  Wetmore,  M,  d., 
the  father  of  Dr.  Frances  Wetmore.  He  came 
from  New  London,  Conn.,  and  Mrs.  Wetmore 
from  the  Berkshire  region,  in  1849.  ^^  ^^^^ 
done  noble  service  here  for  both  body  and  soul. 
He  has  made  a  careful  study  of  the  flowers,  the 
trees,  and  the  fish  in  Hawaiian  waters,  and  in  all 
these  matters  he  is  recognized  as  a  high  author- 
ity. 

On  Monday  morning  we  hastened  to  the  sugar 
mill  of  Mr.  C.  C.  Kennedy,  one  of  the  successful 
Scotchmen  of  whom  mention  was  made.  We 
saw  the  whole  process  of  sugar  making,  from  the 
crushing  of  the  cane  to  the  perfected  product. 
Mr.  Kennedy  has  discovered  methods  of  greatly 
reducing  labor  and  materially  saving  wastage. 
He  is  as  active  as  a  Christian  as  he  is  enterpris- 
ing and  successful  as  a  business  man.  So  great 
was  the  company  on  the  dock  to  say  "good-bye" 
that  one  almost  felt  as  if  he  were  leaving  home. 
A  more  hospitable  people  than  one  meets  here 
can  be  met  nowhere,  it  is  safe  to  say.  I  shall 
not  readily  forget  the  good-bye  of  the  Hawaiian 
pastor,  Rev.  J.  S.  Kalanaw,  who  was  the  associate 
pastor  with  "Father"  Coan.  He  kissed  my  hand 
again  and  again  as  we  parted. 

The  trip  back  to  Honolulu  was  marked  by  the 
usual  rolling  and  pitching  of  the  "Kinau  "  amid 
these  channels.  The  steamship  company  ought 
to  do  better  for  its  passengers.  It  is  abominable 
that  they  should  be  constantly  aroused  by  the 
lowering  and  raising  of  the  anchor ;  but  the  cli- 


M 


\^ 


lllhO   AND   THE    ISLANDS 


57 


max  was  reached  when  a  lot  of  squealing  swine 
were  put  on  board,  making  night  hideous  with 
their  porcine  music.  We  are  hastening  to  Hon- 
olulu to  keep  there  the  "glorious  Fourth,"  for 
which  great  preparations  are  being  made,  and 
hoping  to  catch  on  our  arrival  a  mail  steamei 
for  Victoria.  Regarding  the  island  of  Hawaii,  as 
we  leave  it  we  may  almost  say  in  "  Howard 
Glendon's  "  exaggerated  words  : 

I  go  ;  but  I  have  had 
At  least  a  little  while  in  Paradise, 
With  all  my  heart  anear  my  eyes, 
And  this  shall  make  me  glad. 


.v« 


1(1 


'I 


he 
id 
ht 
.le 
jie 
li- 


Sensitive  Points. — It  is  no  easy  matter  to 
avoid  "snags"  in  preaching,  or  in  delivering 
any  public  address  in  Honolulu.  This  fact  Dr. 
Joseph  Cook  learned  to  his  sorrow  in  making 
his  Fourth  of  July  speech.  In  almost  any  audi- 
ence are  found  Britons,  Germans,  native  Ha- 
waiians,  American-Hawaiians,  and  nati\e  Amer- 
icans. The  Hawaiians,  native  and  American, 
are  decided  royalists  or  equally  decided  repub- 
licans ;  and  the  native  resident  or  visiting  Amer- 
icans, are  either  decided  American  Democrats  or 
equally  decided  American  Republicans.  Of  sev- 
eral of  these  classes,  some  are  and  some  are  not 
annexationists.  Seldom  does  a  man  speak  any- 
where when  so  much  self-control,  self-poise,  en- 
tire fair-mindedness,  and  occasional  reticence  are 
necessary.  Honolulu  is  in  this  respect  a  very 
cosmopolitan  city  ;  but  in  some  other  respects  it 
possesses  many  of  the  qualities  of  village  life. 


:| 


■ 


I- 


l« 


«! 


■a 


■f 

t   •    I 

I  • 
I 

i 


I'f  ■ 

1     , 


58 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


Tlie  English-Speaking  population  is  relatively 
small,  and  what  one  knows  all  are  likely  soon  to 
know.  When  mingling  in  social  and  religions 
circles  a  great  degree  of  self-restraint  in  speech 
and  action  is  an  absolute  necessity.  I  have  met 
Hawaiians,  nctlive  -ind  American,  who  are  stout 
royalists.  The  feeling  on  all  the  points  involved 
is  deep  and  sensitive.  I  have  seen  American- 
Hawaiian  women  turn  their  backs  on  Amcrican- 
Hawaiians  who  had  spoken  or  written  against 
the  deposed  queen.  On  the  other  hand,  I  have 
seen  Hawaiian  republicans  look  askance  on 
those  known  to  be  in  sympathy  with  the  de- 
feated royalists. 

Revolutions  seem  to  be  the  normal  condition 
of  tropical  republics;  rumors  of  uprisings  against 
the  republic  are  in  all  the  newspapers  and  in 
many  conversations.  One  man  said:  "I  have  al- 
ready been  through  several  revolutions  of  greater 
or  less  magnitude,  and  I  am  prepared  for  another 
should  it  come  at  any  moment."  The  ex-queen 
is  not  without  supporters  and  even  admirers. 
Some  of  this  class  are  turbulent  spirits  who  have 
noth'.ng  to  lose,  and  perhaps  something  to  gain, 
by  a  revolution  ;  some  are  men  who  are  willing 
to  do  anything  except  honest  work  ;  some  are 
men  who  fed  royally  at  the  public  crib  in  the  old 
days  and  who  are  now  outside  the  breastworks ; 
some  are  men  who  love  imperialism  and  hate  all 
forms  of  republicanism ;  some  of  the  women  who 
are  supporters  of  the  ex-queen  were  her  school- 
mates in  the  early  days  and  cherish  for  her 
no   little   affection ;   and   some,  both   men   and 


Nil 


HII,0   AND    TIIK    ISLANDS 


59 


nd 


women,  honestly  believe  that  she  was  j^reatly 
wronged,  anrl  they  now  desire  to  see  her  restored 
to  the  palace  and  the  throne.  Those  who  oppose 
her  believe  that  her  title  to  the  throne  was 
always  In  doubt,  and  that  her  alliance  with  the 
opium  and  lottery  rings,  her  insane  attempt  to 
overthrow  the  Liberal  Constitution  which  she 
had  solemnly  sworn  to  uphold,  and  many  ele- 
ments in  her  character,  show  that  she  was  utterly 
unfit  to  rule.  They  believe  that  her  effort  to 
clothe  herself  with  absolute  power  made  her 
guilty  of  treason.  They  also  affirm  that  the 
pure  and  unmixed  Hawaiians  are  not  capable 
of  ruling  these  islands.  These  natives  are  kind, 
amiable,  easy-going,  laughter-loving  children  of 
nature. 

The  question  is.  Who  shall  rule  these  islands? 
Shall  they  be  ruled  by  the  fourteen  thousand 
five  hundred  Chinese,  or  by  the  twenty  thousand 
Japanese,  or  by  the  eight  thousand  five  hundred 
Portuguese,  mostly  ignorant  Catholics,  unable  to 
read  or  write  in  any  language,  or  by  the  English- 
speaking  people,  numbering  in  all  about  ten 
thousand?  That  was  the  problem  before  the 
people  on  July  4,  1894.  It  w^as  a  very  serious 
problem,  and  to  its  solution  the  best  men  of 
Hawaii  gave  their  ripest  thought.  The  Repub- 
lic of  Hawaii  was  the  result ;  and  it  must  be 
admitted  that,  taking  all  the  conditions  into 
account,  the  constitution  shows  statesmanship  of 
a  high  order.  In  some  respects  it  is  an  improve- 
ment on  that  of  the  United  States.  It  limits 
the  suffrage  for  representatives  to  all  male  citi- 


■V 

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f 

■r  1 

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60 


AROUND    TIIK    WORI.U 


zens  of  twenty  years,  "  who  can  fluently  speak, 
read,  and  write  tlic  Rnj^lisli  or  Hawaiian  lan- 
jruaf(e";  and  voters  for  senators  ninst  in  addition 
to  this  edncational  qnalification,  have  a  money 
income  of  six  hnndred  dollars,  or  possess  real 
estate  in  Hawaii  worth  fifteen  hnndred  dollars, 
or  personal  property  worth  three  thonsand  dol- 
lars. There  are  string^ent  provisions  reg-arding 
the  natnralization  of  foreigners,  so  that  no  large 
nnniber  of  Asiatics  can  speedily  become  citizen- 
ized. 

Men  of  very  high  character  are  in  the  govern- 
ment. President  Dole  is  a  native  of  Hawaii,  the 
son  of  honored  missionaries ;  next,  perhaps,  in 
influence  in  shaping  policies  is  Hon.  Lorrin 
Thnrston,  who  v  s  premier  in  the  reform  gov- 
ernment nnder  i  e  monarchy,  an  able  lawyer 
and  an  experienced  diplomat  ;  and  it  is  necessary 
only  to  mention  the  names  of  Samuel  M.  Damon, 
minister  of  finance ;  W.  O  Smith,  attorney 
general ;  F.  M.  Hatch,  minister  of  foreign  affairs  ; 
J.  A.  King,  an  Englishman,  minister  of  the  inte- 
rior, and  Chief  Justice  Judd,  son  of  the  noble 
missionary  physician,  Dr.  G.  P.  Judd,  to  show 
the  character  of  the  men  who  are  at  the  head  of 
affairs  in  this  island  republic.  President  Dole 
enjoys  the  confidence  and  esteem  of  all  the 
people  alike  for  his  worthy  character  and  his 
recognized  ability.  Annexation  is  the  hope  of 
these  men,  but  they  are  not  anxious  to  hasten 
unduly  this  consummation.  They  wish  to  make 
this  republic  more  and  more  worthy  of  union 
with  the  greater  republic.     Let  us  give  them  our 


ill  I 


HiLo  ANn  Tin-:  islands 


6i 


ite- 

ble 

ow 

of 

lolc 

be 

lis 

of 

en 

ke 

on 

iir 


sympathy  and  confidence,  anti  lei  iis  liope  and 
pray  that  the  canse  of  (lod  and  man  may  he 
greatly  prospered  on  these  interesting  and  historic 
Hawaiian  IsUmds. 

Tins  AND  That. — Thci'-  arc  twelve  islands 
which  make  the  gronp  known  as  the  Hawaiian 
Islands.  Fonr  are  simply  barren  locks.  Of  the 
remaining  ei<;ht,  the  fonr  larj^cr  ones — Hawaii, 
Mani,  Oahu,  and  Kanai — are  ao^ricnltnral  and 
pastoral,  and  Molokai,  Lanai,  Niihan  and  Ka- 
hoolawe  are  given  np  almost  entirely  to  pasturage. 

The  Hawaiian  language  has  only  twelve  let- 
ters, and  each  syllable  ends  in  a  vowel.  The 
alphabet  begins  with  the  vowels,  a,  (\  /,  fl,  ?/. 
The  only  consonants  are  /',  /,  w,  //,  and  /. 
There  is  a  gently  aspirated  //  and  the  vocalic  iv. 
The  language  is  very  musical. 

The  native  people  live  usually  in  frame  houses ; 
the  Japanese  occasionally  in  grass  or  fern  houses. 
All  the  people  dress  in  American  or  European 
garments.  Many  white  women,  for  a  part  of  the 
day  at  least,  as  well  as  the  natives,  wear  the 
holoka^  or  "  mother-hubbard"  gown  ;  it  is  worn 
without  a  belt.  Natives  now  are  rarely  seen 
only  half-clad. 

The  birds'  nest  fern  is  very  noticeable  on  the 
way  from  the  Volcano  House  to  Hilo.  It  is 
found  far  up  in  the  highest  trees,  and  is  often 
larger  than  a  bushel  basket. 

The  gold  currency  is  United  States  coin.  The 
only  paper  currency  of  the  islands  is  government 
treasury  notes  of  ten,  twenty,  fifty,  one  hundred, 


1 1 

I  < 

o 


i 


i*'^ 


'1 


f  .1 


62 


AROUND   TIIK   VVOUI.I) 


.'  V 


and  five  hinidrcd  dollars.  The  smallest  silver 
coin  is  ten  cents,  bnt  American  five-cent  pieces 
are  taken  everywhere. 

Japanese  women,  barefooted,  with  their  loose 
j>[arments,  and  each  with  a  child  on  her  back, 
are  freqnently  seen.  Hawaiian,  American,  and 
other  women  ride  their  liorses  astride.  Those 
who  wish  to  be  nu  fait  wear  the  gorgconsly 
colored  pau.  This  is  really  a  beautifnl  ridinj^ 
habit,  but  many  wear  their  ordinary  dress  and 
yet  ride  astride. 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  are  of  volcanic  origin. 
Coral  reef  formations  are  found  on  parts  of  nearly 
all  the  islands,  but  they  do  not  encircle  any.  La 
Perouse,  Vancouver,  and  other  noted  voyagers 
have  visited  these  isles.  The  people  were  and 
are  amiable  and  kind  ;  they  were  waiting  to  re- 
ceive Christianity. 

Mosquitoes  are  here  in  two  varieties,  one  for 
the  day  and  one  for  the  night.  When  the  day 
mosquito  retires  on  his  laurels  the  night  mosquito 
comes  forth  for  conflict.  Honolulu  is  as  bad  as 
New  Jersey  in  this  respect,  but  it  is  positively 
affirmed  that  in  the  primitive  days  there  were  no 
mosquitoes  here,  and  that  they  were  introduced 
in  1826  from  Mexico  by  the  ship  Wellington. 
Cockroaches  also  were  imported,  and  in  1836  the 
centipede.  Truly  the  Hawaiian  Islands  were  a 
paradise  before  the  many  and  varied  "  vices  of 
civilization  "  were  introduced. 

The  Hawaiian  Islands  were  named  the  Sand- 
wich Islands  by  Captain  Cook,  in  honor  of  his 
patron,  the  Earl  of  Sandwich,  then  First  Lord 


\\ 


/ 


IIII.O   AND   THH    ISLANDS 


63 


a 

of 

id- 
lis 
rd 


of  the  Admiralty.  The  natives,  however,  always 
called  them  ''•JlaiCaii  mi  par  ^//;//i',"  a  collect- 
ive  term   meauinj^  '*  these  Hawaiian    Islands. 


arly 


from 


»» 


1 


.•qnidistant 

America,  Mexico,  California,  the  northeast  coast, 
on  the  one  side,  and  the  Ru.ssian  domain,  Japan, 
China,  and  the  Philippine  Islands  on  the  other. 
This  pin-point  repnblic  is  a  fnlcrnm  by  which 
all  the  leading  nations  of  the  world  may  be 
moved. 

Among  the  monntainson  the  island  of  Hawaii 
wild  dogs  are  still  fonnd.  Once  wild  goats  were 
there  by  thousands,  and  the  natives  derived  a 
good  income  from  their  skins,  but  the  dogs  have 
destroyed  the  goats.  They  have  also  been  the 
enemy  of  the  slieep  ranches,  but  now  a  vigorous 
fight  against  the  dogs  is  greatly  reducing  their 
numbers.  Wild  hogs  are  still  found,  and  an  ex- 
perienced hunter  said  that  he  would  rather  meet 
a  wild  bull  than  a  wild  boar. 

The  cloud  effects  all  over  the  islands  are  won- 
derful. The  moisture,  the  tradewinds,  and  the 
bright  sunshine  combine  to  produce  these  beau- 
tiful pictures. 

Honolulu  is  a  city  of  telephones.  It  is  jok- 
ingly said  that  the  women  ask  "  Central  " 
•whether  their  bonnets  are  on  straight. 

Near  Hilo  are  still  seen  the  stones  on  which 
human  beings  were  offered  in  sacrifice. 

The  Hawaiian  Band  is  an  attraction  at  Hono- 
lulu. It  was  established  by  the  Hon.  J.  O.  Domi- 
nis,  the  husband  of  the  ex-queen.  Its  musical 
skill  is  largely  due  to  Mr.  H.  Berger,  who  was  sent 


'f 


1 


'fi 


B^ 


.'I 


». 


■is. 
r 


t)  ■ 


( 

I 

^ 


\ 


' '  'i 


64 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


here  by  the  Prussian  Government  in  1872,  at 
the  request  of  King  Kalakaua.  Professor  Berger 
left  during  our  visit  to  rejoin  his  old  regiment ; 
he  is  expected  to  return  to  Honohihi. 

Old  Punch  Bowl  is  a  sort  of  domesticated 
crater  just  back  of  the  town. 

The  clouds  are  often  pierced  by  the  jagged 
rocks,  the  sierras  or  saws,  behind  the  city,  and 
they  give  forth  their  rain  very  frequently.  These 
showeis  have  been  poetically  called  "  liquid 
sunshine." 

The  island  of  Maui  has  been  aptly  called  the 
"  Switzerland  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,"  and 
Kauai  the  "Garden  Isle."  Its  so-called  "bark- 
ing sands,"  because  of  the  curious  sound  which 
they  give  forth  when  trodden  on,  are  a  strange 
phenomenon. 

The  myna/i  is  an  impertinent  bird  whose 
strange  noises  are  not  conducive  to  comfort. 

The  general  growing  of  coffee  is  the  revival 
of  an  early  industry  which  promises  great  re- 
sults in  the  near  future. 

The  algcroha  tree  bears  pods  which  are  food 
for  horses.  It  is  also  a  living  wood-pile,  giving 
a  great  degree  of  heat. 

Beggars  are  rarely  seen  on  the  islands ;  where 
Protestantism  is  dominant,  poverty  is  rare. 

There  are  absolutely  no  snakes  on  the  Ha- 
waiian Islands.  A  man  was  recently  caught  by 
the  government  officials  trying  to  bring  in 
snakes,  but  he  was  obliged  to  destroy  them. 
There  are,  however,  some  scorpions. 


•■ 


\  I 


I 


\\ 


r 
1^. 


•'.!T- 


VI 


HONOLULU   AGAIN 


's: 


la- 


We  have  had  enouf-'h  of  action,  and  of  motion  we, 

RoU'd  to  starboard,  roU'd  to  larboard,  when  the  surge  was 

seething  free, 
Where  the  wallowing  monster  spouted  hl3  foam-fountains 

in  the  sea. 

Let  us  swear  an  oath,  and  keep  it  with  an  equal  mind, 
In  the  hollow  Lotus-land  to  live  and  lie  reclined 
On  the  hills  like  gods  together,  careless  of  mankind. 

NOTHING  could  better  express  our  feelinjj^s 
on  our  return  to  Honolulu  after  our  trip 
to  the  volcano  than  the  first  of  these  stanzas. 
We  would  not  like  to  make  the  second  stan?:a 
our  creed,  although  on  these  Hawaiian  Islands 
it  has  more  appropriateness  than  in  any  other 
place  we  have  ever  visited. 

rHR  loLANi  Palace. — One  of  the  notable 
places  in  Honolulu  is  the  lolani  Palace,  as  it 
was  formerly  called,  but  which  under  the  republic 
is  known  as  the  Executive  Buildiuf^,  It  was 
completed  in  1883  at  a  cost  of  three  hundred 
and  forty  thousand  dollars.  The  interior  is 
fitted  up  on  a  grand  scale,  being  finished  in  kow 
and  /'f?^?  woods,  native  woods  which  are  highly 
esteemed.     This  building  was  the  palace  of  the 

K  65 


w 


ki 


4'' 


1 ' 
I'- 


,  :  li 


;  i 


{ 


1 1  ^ 
1 1 


,, 


66 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


deposed  Queen  Liliiiokalani  (pronounced  Lee- 
lee-wo-ka-la-nee),  who  succeeded  her  brother, 
Kalakaua  (Ka-la-kau-a),  as  sovereign  of  Hawaii. 
In  one  corner  of  this  buildinj^  the  deposed  queen 
is  confined  as  a  political  prisoner  (1895).  She 
si  ill  enjoys  many  privileocs  ;  slie  has  her  maids 
to  wait  upon  her ;  she  has  beautiful  rooms  in 
which  to  live,  and  she  is  at  liberty  to  walk  in  a 
certain  portion  of  the  grounds,  but  of  this  privi- 
lege she  does  not  often  take  advantage. 

The  writer  chanced  to  see  her.  In  his  igno- 
rance he  walked  out  on  the  veranda  in  front  of 
lier  rooms.  Some  of  her  maids  were  seen  at  the 
window  ;  a  few  more  steps  were  taken  and  she 
was  seen.  She  did  not  seem  to  regard  the 
stranger's  presence  as  an  intrusion,  and  a  glance 
of  salutation  was  exchanged.  Just  then  the 
guard  appeared  and  reminded  the  visitor  that 
this  part  of  the  building  was  not  open  to  the 
public.  Appropriate  apology  was  offered,  and 
the  walk  was  continued  in  another  direction. 
In  this  accidental  way  a  desired  object  was  ac- 
complished, and  certainly  no  harm  was  done. 
As  is  to  be  expected,  the  ex-queen  has  grown 
rapidly  older-looking  in  these  recent  years.  She 
has  among  Americans  and  American-Hawaiians 
here  some  hearty  admirers  and  supporters.  All, 
in  some  sense,  pity  her.  They  believe  that  she 
is  the  victim  of  a  bad  system  of  past  government, 
of  bad  advisers,  and  of  defective  moral  character. 
There  is  a  general  impression  that  she  will  at 
no  very  distant  day  receive  some  kind  of  a  par- 
don and  so  be  granted  fuller  liberty.     She  is,  to 


!  I 


f  \\k 


HONOLULU    AGAIN 


67 


the  1( 


:liaracter  in  the  hi 


t,  an  interestin^^ 
tory  of  our  times. 

In  a  room  in  the  lower  part  of  this  building 
the  lef^islature  meets.  It  is  now  in  session. 
The  speaker  is  a  native  Hawaiian  and  the  pro- 
ceedings are  in  both  languages,  all  remarks 
being  translated  with  wonderful  quickness  and 
skill  by  Mr.  Willcox  ;  but  the  necessity  of  making 
these  translations  greatly  delays  the  proceedings. 
The  senate  meets  in  a  chamber  on  the  floor 
above.  Both  bodies  are  small,  and  the  proceed- 
ings suggest  the  work  of  committees  rather  than 
the  deliberations  of  houses  of  lesfislation.  Presi- 
dent  Dole  and  other  officials  have  rooms  in  this 
building.  Strange  thoughts  must  come  into  the 
mind  of  the  ex-queen  as  she  watches  those  who 
visit  the  building  and  learns  of  the  deliberations 
in  what  was  once  her  palace. 

Opposite  this  former  palace  is  what  until  lately 
was  the  (Tovernment  Building.  Now  it  is  known 
as  the  Judiciary  Building.  It  is  a  concrete 
structure  of  considerable  architectural  merit.  It 
contains  various  department  offices,  and  the  su- 
preme court  and  judicial  chambers.  Chief  Jus- 
tice Judd,  whom  it  was  our  pleasure  to  meet 
several  times,  was  presiding  on  the  occasion  of 
our  visit.  In  front  of  this  building  stands  an 
imposing  bronze  statue  of  Kamehameha  the 
Great,  in  feather  helmet  and  robes  of  state.  It 
is  said  that  the  likeness  to  the  founder  of  the 
Hawaiian  monarchy  is  perfect.  He  is  called  the 
Napoleon  of  the  islands.  His  conquests  were 
numerous,  his  bravery  heroic,  and  liis   success 


i 


V 

.1 


:l 


/, 


1/ 


68 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


.')f 


complete.  The  reliefs  on  the  side  of  the  statue 
represent  some  of  his  great  victories.  His  name 
is  one  to  conjnre  with  in  all  the  islands  which 
he  conqnered  and  over  which  he  rnled.  On  the 
occasion  of  onr  visit  the  helmet  and  robes  were 
resplendent  in  a  new  coating  of  gold  leaf.  It  is 
the  policy  of  the  government  to  do  honor  to  this 
hero's  memory,  and  so  to  minister  to  the  natnral 
pride  of  the  native  Hawaiians. 

This  great  king  chose  Honolulu,  meaning 
"  the  sheltered  slope,"  as  the  seat  of  his  govern- 
ment, and  his  skill  discovered  a  channel  through 
the  reef  into  this  bay,  which  is  really  the  only 
good  harbor  on  the  group  of  islands.  He  en- 
couraged ships  to  visit  this  harbor  ;  indeed,  it  is 
said  that  before  the  harbor  was  surveyed  he  went 
out  with  his  great  double  canoe  and  towed  visit- 
ing ships  inside  the  reef,  and  was  thus  the  first 
pilot  into  the  harbor  of  Honolulu,  as  he  was  the 
greatest  chieftain  of  the  Hawaiian  race. 

Buildings,  Schools  id  Parks. — The  opera 
house,  near  the  Judiciary  Building,  was  recently 
destroyed  by  fire  and  has  not  yet  been  rebuilt. 
The  Queen's  Hospital,  built  in  i860,  in  honor 
of  Queen  Emma,  by  Kamehameha  IV.,  is  out 
a  short  distance  from  the  buildings  just  named. 
The  Avenue  of  Palms,  leading  up  to  the  en- 
trance, will  at  once  attract  the  attention  of  the 
visitor.  Lunalilo  Home  was  founded  by  King 
IvUnalilo  for  aged  and  destitute  Hawaiians.  Not 
far  from  it  is  Oahu  College,  whose  commence- 
ment was  celebrated  a  few  days  ago.     This  insti- 


li' 


It. 


lie 


ti- 


^ONQ^.V^y   AGA^N 


69 


I'  i 


tution  was  fomuled  as  a  place  of  education  for 
the  children  of  missionaries,  but  its  work  has 
ji;reatly  widened.  It  now  inclndcs  in  its  teaching 
all  classes  who  can  avail  themselves  of  its  in- 
struction. It  prepares  young  men  for  Yale,  Har- 
vard, and  other  colleges. 

This  is  a  college  community.  Probably  there 
is  not  a  city  of  the  size  of  its  English-speaking 
population  in  the  United  States  which  has  so 
many  young  men  in  colleges  as  Honolulu.  The 
whole  city  was  stirred  up  recently  when  about 
fifteen  students  returned  on  one  ship  to  spend 
their  vacation  at  their  island  home.  The  influ- 
ence of  the  missionaries  has  created  among  their 
sons,  grandsons,  and  others,  a  taste  for  the  high- 
est education  of  the  times.  I  have  enjoyed  ex- 
cellent opportunities,  under  the  guidance  of  Dr. 
C.  ]\I.  Hyde,  who  is  an  authority  on  all  educa- 
tional, as  well  as  policical  and  other  matters  here, 
of  visiting  the  Kamehameha  schools.  Tliese 
schools  are  on  the  west  side  and  at  a  Httle  dis- 
tance from  the  center  of  the  city.  They  were 
founded  imder  the  will  of  Mrs.  Bernice  Pawahi 
Bishop,  who  was  the  heiress  of  the  late  Prin- 
cess Ruth,  the  sister  of  Kamehameha  V.  The 
schools  are  richly  endowed  and  admirably  con- 
ducted. The  appearance,  deportment,  and  ability 
of  the  young  men  and  women,  whose  parents  two 
generations  ago  were  naked  savages,  are  a  re- 
markable testimo'iy  to  the  value  of  missionary 
work  and  to  the  power  of  ChrisLian  truth.  In 
addition  to  the  regular  course  of  Instruction, 
training  is  given  to  Hawaiian  boys  and  girls  in 


(1 


u 


i 


1! 


i 


•  iir' 


( I 


tn 


70 


AROUND    TIIIC    WORM) 


useful  trades.  These  school  biiildini^s  are  per- 
fectly adapted  architecturally  to  a  climate  in 
which  no  fires  are  necessary  for  comfort,  and  they 
are  snperbly  eqnipped  with  teachers  of  hi<^h 
^rade.  The  money  for  their  snpport  is  the  o;ift 
of  the  nnited  lives  of  an  American  man  and  a 
Hawaiian  woman.  Of  the  Bishop  Mnsenni  1 
shall  speak  later. 

Waikiki  is  about  three  miles  from  the  city  and 
is  beautifully  situated  on  the  beach  in  the  direc- 
tion of  Diamond  Head.  Street  cars  connect  it 
with  the  city.  Kapiolani  Park  is  a  part  of  Wai- 
kiki. A  picnic  excursion  with  friends  of  the 
Cliristian  Church  to  this  beach  was  very  enjoy- 
able. The  bathing-  is  excellent,  the  shore  being 
of  pure  white  sand  and  Ihe  water  never  too  cold 
for  comfort.  This  stanza,  from  a  poem  on  Wai- 
kiki by  Rollin  M.  Daggett,  will  scarcely  be  called 
an  exaggeration  by  any  one  who  has  spent  an 
afternoon  at  this  cool,  quiet,  and  poetic  place : 

O  Waikiki  !     O  scene  of  peace  ! 

O  home  of  beauty  and  of  dreams  ! 
No  haven  in  the  isles  of  (jreece 

Can  chord  the  harp  to  sweeter  themes  ; 
For  houris  haunt  the  broad  lanais, 

While  scented  zephyrs  cool  the  lea, 
And,  looking  down  from  sunset  skies, 

The  angels  smile  on  Waikiki. 

The  waves  beat  in  rhythmic  regularity  on  the 
shining  sands  of  this  beach,  and  the  vine-clad 
porches  furnish  needed  shade.  Here  is  the  spot 
for  the  lover  of  the  (/o/cc  far  nicntc  in  these  sea- 


i'" 


n 


IIONOI.UI.U    AGAIN 


71 


m   , 


girt  isles.     Excursion  by  rail  to  Pearl  Harbor  is 
one  of  the  attractions  for  visitors  to  Honolulu. 

But  perhaps  no  attraction  surpasses  a  visit  to 
the  Pali,  mcaninor  "precipice,"  in  the  Nunanu 
Valley,  nieanino;-,  'Hhe  valley  of  the  cool  ascent." 
There  is  a  good  road  from  the  city  to  the  Pali, 
six  miles  distant.  By  the  courtesy  of  Rev.  and 
Mrs.  Birnie  the  trip  was  made  as  their  cruest. 
The  road  passes  among  the  villas  in  this  charm- 
ing valley ;  it  crosses  bridges  where  sudden 
freshets  often  rush  from  the  mountain  to  the 
sea ;  passes  gardens  which  resemble  Japanese 
landscapes ;  passes  great  jungles  of  cacti  and 
bamboo ;  passes  the  home  of  Chief  Justice  Judd 
and  that  which  belonged  to  hi^  noble  father ; 
passes  gray-walled  cemeteries,  in  one  of  which  is 
the  royal  mausoleum  where  the  Kamehamehas 
are  buried,  among  them  the  late  Princess  Keeli- 
kolani,  the  last  of  the  line ;  and  here  also  are 
buried  Queen  Emma,  and  Princess  Eikelike. 
We  also  passed  Chinese  tea-houses,  tare  patches, 
plantations  of  bananas,  and  the  summer  homes 
of  Messrs.  Cook,  Atherton,  and  Eowry.  The  visit 
to  the  home  of  the  last  is  among  the  pleasant 
memories  of  this  excursion.  On  the  way  we 
passed  the  crumbling  walls  of  the  summer  home 
of  a  forgotten  king  who  ruled  in  the  early  days 
of  royalty  in  these  islands.  We  rode  almost  to 
the  Pali,  then  a  short  walk  brought  us  to  the 
summit.  What  a  scene  then  burst  upon  our 
view!  At  our  feet  the  pathway  leads  to  the 
edge,  and  we  look  downward  -with  wondei  and 
delight, 


A 


i 


I 

I 


ll 


>; 


i 


'if' 

.  I., 

'I 


.u' 


I 


!<'   '  ' 


);:<! 


I  I 


72 


AROUND   TIIH    WORI^D 


For  here  the  Tali,  sheer  and  steep, 
Falls  down  three  hundred  fathoms  deep. 

Behind  us  tlie  liarbor  of  Honolulu  lay,  in 
beauty  rivalinj^  that  of  the  Vesuvian  Bay,  and 
before  us  stretched  the  boundless  sea  with  its 
many-colored  waters  and  its  border  of  rocks, 
huts,  and  gleaming  sands.  Every  inch  of  this 
ground  is  historic.  Standing  on  this  Pali,  we 
are  look  ng  on  the  burial  place  of  thousands  of 
the  early  inhabitants  of  Oahu.  Kamehameha 
drove  them  before  him  up  tlie  valley,  and  on  the 
edge  of  the  precipice  they  made  their  last  effort 
to  repel  the  invader.  Rather  than  submit,  they 
leaped,  or  were  hurled,  over  this  precipice.  At 
the  base  of  the  rocks  their  crumbling  bones  are 
still  found,  silent  witnesses  to  their  bravery  and 
to  their  conqueror's  cruelty. 

The  Cumatk. — No  one  could  desire  a  more 
delightful  climate  than  that  of  Honolulu,  or  that 
of  all  the  Hawaiian  islands.  Mr.  Curtis  J.  Lyons, 
director  of  the  Hawaiian  weather  bureau,  ex- 
presses it  in  two  words,  "sunshine  and  breezes." 
The  Hawaiian  Islands,  as  he  remarks,  are  '-'  a 
picket  line  between  tropical  and  temperate  re- 
gions on  the  one  hand,  and  between  American 
and  Asiatic  spheres  of  influence  on  the  other." 
Coming  from  the  smoke  of  continental  cities,  the 
traveler  is  surprised  and  delighted  at  the  clear, 
pure,  sweet  air  of  Hawaii.  Sunshine  is  every- 
where, it  floods  mountain,  valley,  and  sea;  but 
the  breezes  so  modifv  it  that  one  lu  vpt  feels  it 


if" 


IX- 


M 


■y- 

nit 
it 


HONOLULU   AGAIN 


73 


too  hot ;  though  in  cnneiits  of  air  one  docs  not 
take  cold.  The  alternation  of  shower  and  shadow 
makes  the  rainbow,  both  solar  and  Innar,  pecnli- 
arly  brio^ht  and  bcantifnl.  There  are  great  vari- 
eties of  climates.  Manna  Kea,  13,805  feet  in 
height,  and  the  other  monntains  bnt  a  little 
lower,  greatly  modify  the  air.  The  rainfall  in 
the  Hilo  forest  averages  two  hnndred  inches  a 
year,  and  in  the  Kona  coffee  belt  about  sixty 
inches  a  year  ;  the  rainfall  of  Oahu,  the  island  in 
which  Honolulu  is  situated,  is  about  forty  inches, 
but  it  varies  much  according  to  locality. 

The  average  temperature  at  Honolulu  is  74° 
Fahrenheit,  and  this  average  taken  year  by  year 
does  not  vary  l^y  a  degree.  The  average  of  the 
coldest  month  is  69°,  and  of  the  warmest  78°. 
The  extreme  lowest  temperature  is  50°  (I  saw  it 
at  54°  at  the  Volcano  House),  and  the  highest  is 
90°  ;  and  Mr.  Lyons  states  that  each  of  these 
figures  has  been  noted  only  once  in  twelve  years 
of  careful  personal  observations.  The  humidity 
at  Honolulu  is  not  higher  than  the  average  in 
the  Eastern  States,  the  average  relative  humidity 
being  about  72,  which  is  said  to  be  the  ideal 
amount  for  comfort  and  health.  On  the  wind- 
ward coasts  the  dampness  is  greater,  but  is  not 
excessive  even  there. 

Early  settlers  here,  as  Mr.  Lyons  remarks, 
adopted  East  Indian  ways,  always  carrying  an 
umbrella,  wearing  ventilated  or  corked  hats,  and 
dressing  in  pongee  or  white  linen  ;  but  none  of 
these  styles  prevails  to-day.  The  people  dress 
as  they  do  in  Boston  or  New  York,  felt  hats  and 


:.'J 


1 


ij 


74 


AROdNI)    TIIK    WOKl,U 


t 


straw  hats  beiiic:;^  the  rule;  but  a  "stove-pipe"  hat 
would  alarm  all  the  Hawaiian  gamins  into  the 
l)clic'f  that  another  of  the  chronic  Hawaiian  re- 
bellions, or  the  opening  of  an  extinct  crater,  was 
immediately  to  take  place.  This  must  be  a  su- 
perb place  for  aged  people,  to  whom  marked 
chatiges  in  temperature  so  often  prove  fatal. 
The  white  races  live  happily  here,  although, 
without  doubt,  the  tendency  of  the  climate  is 
toward  laziness;  but  perhaps  in  that  tendency  is 
found  the  enjoyment  of  some  residents  and  vis- 
itors. Persons  of  weak  lungs  have  been  much 
benefited  l)y  the  climate  ;  it  certainly  tends  to 
good  nature.  Perhaps  the  amiability  of  the 
natives  is  due  in  no  small  degree  to  the  equable 
climate.  After  the  torrid  heat  of  New  York,  last 
]\Iay  and  June,  this  tropical  climate,  with  its  hot 
sun  but  cool  breezes  day  and  uight,  seems  little 
short  of  Paradise. 


ii 


'f/i 


'i;:'^ 


io 


■J 

tir' 


Hawaii  Americanized. — The  Rev.  Dr.  Sere- 
no  E.  Bishop,  in  a  recent  article,  calls  attention 
to  the  Americanization  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 
The  controlling  social,  intellectual,  political,  and 
religious  influence  to-day  is  undoubtedly  Amer- 
ican. It  is  difficult  for  an  American  tourist  here 
to  realize  that  he  is  not  in  his  own  country  ;  the 
whole  atmosphere  is  largely  filled  with  American 
ideas.  But  the  actual  proportion  of  people  of 
American  birth  or  parentage  is  only  four  per 
cent,  of  the  whole  population  ;  still  Americans, 
in  all  the  respects  named,  exercise  the  dominating 
influence.     They  are  shaping   the  commercial, 


IIONOLUMJ    AGAIN 


75 


■^      t 


political,  intellectual,  aii<l  moral  inovcmcnts  of 
the  peoj)le.  There  are  more  ihan  forty  ihoii.sand 
native  Ilawaiians,  there  arc  Britons,  (iermans, 
and  Portuj^nese  nnml^erinj^  in  all  about  eij^htccn 
thousand,  but  a  great  many  '  f  this  nnnibrr  ire  ip^- 
norant  Catholic  Portuj^uese  ;  :in(l  there  are  thirty- 
five  thousand  Chinese  and  ]a\  aiese.  Tliese  Asi- 
atics resist  assimilation,  and  eare  but  little  who 
is  in  authority,  livini;  l.irgely  apart  socially,  po- 
litically, and  religiously.  But  the  Britons  and 
Germans  practically  acknowledge  the  American 
supremacy. 

The  type  of  English  speech  heard  here  is 
American  rather  than  British  ;  indeed,  it  must 
be  C(.)nfessed,  that  like  the  s]-)eech  heard  in  many 
parts  of  the  United  States,  it  is  sometimes  a  little 
too  American  for  its  own  ]nirity  and  beauty. 
English  is  taught  in  all  the  common  schools,  and 
the  next  generation  of  Hawaiians  will  all  speak 
English  and  that  of  the  American  type.  The 
flags  usually  seen  are  the  Hawaiian  and  Amer- 
ican ;  other  flags,  such  as  the  British,  German, 
Portuguese,  Chinese,  and  Japanese,  are  seen  here 
as  they  might  be  seen  on  some  occasions  in  New 
York  or  Boston.  The  president  and  two  minis- 
ters are  American-Hawaiians ;  two  other  ministers 
are  American  by  birth.  vSimilar  facts  exist  in 
all  departments  of  the  public  service.  The  re- 
ligious life  of  Honolulu  is  very  largely  under  the 
influence  of  a  sanctified  Americanism.  Amer- 
ican influence  was  first  felt  in  the  Sandwich 
Islands  in  connection  with  the  visits  of  the  en- 
terprising  whalemen    of    Nantucket    and    New 


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76 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


Bedford.  Nearly  one  hundred  years  ago  this 
North  Pacific  was  visited  by  American  whale- 
ships  ;  and  from  these  island  ports  agile  Kanaka 
boys  were  shipped,  and  some  of  tliem  found  their 
way  to  schools  in  our  Eastern  States. 

In  1 8 19  the  immortal  band  of  American  mis- 
sionaries came  to  Hawaii,  imbued  with  a  truly 
apostolic  spirit,  scholarly  and  consecrated.  They 
have  given  shape  to  the  political,  intellectual, 
and  moral  life  of  these  islands.  Other  Amer- 
icans came  and  their  children  have  intermarried. 
They  have  become,  in  many  instances,  successful 
in  business,  and  have  beautiful  homes.  Intelli- 
gence, character,  and  capacity  must  always  win 
the  battle  of  life  as  against  ignorance,  incapacity, 
and  immorality.  So  long  as  these  laws  obtain, 
men  of  this  character  will  succeed  ;  and  their 
success  seems  to  be  the  front  of  their  offending 
in  the  judgment  of  some  harsh  critics. 

There  is  room  on  these  islands  for  half  a  mil- 
lion intelligent,  industrictis,  and  enterprising 
Americans.  All  our  Protestant  churches  will 
yet  be  established  here;  commerce  will  flourish 
and  industries  will  be  multiplied  when  this  gem 
of  the  Pacific  shall  have  become  a  possession  of 
the  United  States,  as  it  certainly  will  in  some 
form  before  five  years  shall  pass.*  That  day  is 
coming,  and  with  its  coming  will  come  also  sta- 
bility, peace,  and  prosperity,  and  manifold  other 
blessings  to  the  great  American  Republic. 

'This  prophecy  has  since  been  fulfilled.  "For  better  or  for 
worse"  the  destinies  of  the  two  republics  have  become  allied. 
True  optimism  will  discern  only  the  *'  better  "  for  both. 


i,n 


i   U' 


VII 


HAWAIIAN   HISTORY 

MUCH  has  already  been  said  in  these  chap- 
ters regarding  these  islands ;  but  it  seems 
fitting  that  the  facts  from  their  discovery  to  the 
present  time  should  be  condensed  into  a  single 
chapter.  These  islands  have  been  making  his- 
tory very  rapidly  within  the  past  few  years.  Not 
only  have  they  occupied  a  prominent  place  be- 
cause of  their  own  history,  but  they  are  likely 
also  to  have  a  place  of  importance  in  inter- 
national history.  It  is  quite  certain,  as  already 
suggested,  that  before  many  years  this  gem  of 
the  Pacific  will  be  a  star  in  the  American  flag,  or 
a  Territory  under  our  control,  until  properly  fitted 
for  Statehood.  These  considerations  justify  us 
in  giving  fuller  attention  to  the  past  develop- 
ment, present  position,  and  possible  future  of 
this  interesting  group  of  islands. 

Thk  Native  Race.-— What  is  tht  origin  of 
the  Hawaiian  people?  In  answer  to  that  ques- 
tion, some  writers  afiirm  that  they  are  related  to 
the  Toltec  branch  of  the  great  Nahoa  family  of 
Mexico.  Points  of  similarity  physiologically  are 
emphasized  in  proof  of  the  claim  of  this  relation- 
ship.    If  this  relationship  can  be  proved,  the  Ha- 

77 


. '« 


78 


AROUND    THE    WORLD 


waiians  would  be  the  oldest  Polynesian  colony, 
and  from  it  the  other  nienibers  of  the  family 
vvonld  liave  branched  ont.  Another  theory  makes 
all  the  Pacific  islands  to  have  been  colonized  by 
successive  mij^^rations  from  southern  Asia.  Th  " 
theory  makes  the  Malay  Archipelago  the  s*^arting 
point  of  the  migrations  of  the  Hawaiians,  the 
New  Zealanders,  the  Samoans,  Tongans,  and 
other  related  tribes.  I\Iany  traditions,  customs, 
and  linguistic  similarities  support  this  theory. 

We  know  that  the  Hawaiian  Islands  \vere  dis- 
covered in  1542  by  a  Spanish  navigator  named 
Gaetano.  In  1567  another  Spanish  discoverer, 
Mendana,  located  some  of  the  islands  in  the  Ha- 
waiian group.  But  it  is  believed  that  as  early  as 
1527  a  Spanish  vessel  was  wrecked  on  the  coast 
of  Hawaii.  The  survivors  of  the  wreck  inter- 
married with  the  natives,  and  it  is  affirmed  that 
their  descendants  are  still  known  by  their  light 
color  and  their  Caucasian  facial  contour ;  they 
also  have  a  tendency  to  "freckle."  They  are 
known  among  the  Hawaiians  by  a  special  name, 
Kckca.  Captain  Cook  visited  these  islands  on 
January  18,  1778.  He  sailed  for  the  American 
coast,  and  returned  to  these  islands  November 
20,  of  the  same  year.  On  his  return  he  met 
Kamehameha  I.,  who  was  then  a  young  man, 
and  he  remained  for  a  considerable  time,  enjoy- 
ing the  unbounded  hospitality  of  the  natives,  but 
finally  in  a  quarrel  provoked  by  his  own  imwis- 
dom  and  that  of  his  men,  he  was  killed  at  Keala- 
kekua  Bay,  on  February  14,  1779. 

When  the  Hawaiians  were  first  discovered  an 


(;'   I 


HAWAIIAN    HISTORY 


79 


elaborate  feudal  system  was  their  form  of  j^overn- 
ment.  Each  tribe  was  led  by  its  own  chief  and, 
after  much  fighting  among  the  tribal  chiefs,  the 
islands  at  the  time  of  Captain  Cook's  discovery 
were  under  the  rule  of  five  or  six  kings.  A  rea- 
sonable degree  of  civilization  had  l)cen  reached. 
The  authority  of  the  kings,  liowever,  was  abso- 
lute. They  were  regarded  in  some  sense  as 
deities.  Tlie  common  people  were  oppressed  by 
their  rulers  and  were  virtuallv  slaves  to  the 
chiefs  who  gave  them  protection.  In  1790  Ka- 
mehamcha  ruled  over  a  part  of  the  island  of 
Hawaii.  He  was  then  attacked  by  Keoua,  who 
ruled  over  the  remaining  portion  of  the  island. 
Kamehameha  defeated  this  king,  and  soon  ex- 
tended his  reign  over  the  entire  island.  The 
flames  of  his  ambition  were  fanned  by  this  suc- 
cess, r.nd  he  soon  formed  the  purpose  of  conquer- 
ing neighboring  islands.  This  purpose  he  car- 
ried out  until  all  the  islands  but  two,  Kauai  and 
Nuhau,  were  under  his  control,  and  by  a  treaty 
with  the  king  of  these  islands  they  also  came 
into  his  possession.  The  visit  of  Vancouv^er  was 
made  to  these  islands  in  1792.  His  influence 
was  both  great  and  good.  He  gave  the  people 
instruction  regarding  God  and  spiritual  things. 
He  strove  to  settle  on  peaceful  terms  disputes 
between  factions,  and  in  every  way  sought  the 
highest  good  of  all  the  people.  Upon  the  death 
of  Kamehameha  after  his  long  and  successful 
reign,  his  son,  Liholiho,  became  his  successor, 
taking  the  title  of  Kamehameha  U.  He  with 
remarkable  boldness  and  wisdom  overthrew  the 


!  i 


80 


AROUND   TIIK    WORIV.) 


,'J 

..1 
'I 


'Ays^r 


taboo  system  which  for  centuries  had  exercised 
great  power  over  all  the  people. 

Foreign  Influence. — The  cruelty  of  the 
heathen  system  of  religion  was  deeply  felt,  and 
the  whole  country  was  ready  to  receive  the  gos- 
pel when  the  missionaries  arrived,  April  4,  1820. 
Their  success,  with  the  assistance  of  Rev.  Mr. 
Ellis,  in  reducing  the  Hawaiian  language  to 
writing  was  very  marked.  The  first  printing 
was  done  in  1822.  In  1823  the  king  and  the 
queen  visited  England,  and  there  they  both  died. 
The  premier  became  regent  and  ruled  for  nine 
years  until  the  majority  of  Kanikeaouli,  brother 
of  the  late  king.  In  1825  the  Ten  Command- 
ments were  adopted  by  the  government  as  a  part 
of  the  law  of  the  island.  Roman  Catholic  mis- 
sionaries arrived  in  1827.  ^^^  ^^39  Commander 
I^aplace,  of  a  French  frigate,  obtained  civil  and 
religious  privileges  for  tlie  Romanists.  In  1833 
the  late  king's  brother  became  ruler  inider  .he 
name  of  Kamehameha  III.  In  1840  the  consti- 
tution granting  civil  rights  to  the  people  was 
promulgated.  For  a  little  time  the  islands  were 
under  the  provisional  control  of  Great  Britain, 
and  in  1849  there  was  a  temporary  occupation 
of  Honolulu  by  the  French.  Kamehameha  III. 
died  December  15,  1854 ;  he  was  succeeded  by 
Alexander  I^iholiho  as  Kamehameha  IV.  He 
died  Novembei  30,  1863,  having  been  married 
to  Emma  Naea,  the  adopted  daughter  of  Doctor 
Rooke.  Lot  Kamehameha,  brotlier  of  the  late 
king,  succeeded  him  as  Kamehameha  V.     The 


.  1< 


HAWAIIAN    HISTORY 


8l 


chief  characteristic  of  liis  reign  was  the  abroga- 
tion of  the  national  constitntion  and  the  limita- 
tion of  the  suffrage  by  a  property  qualification. 
During  his  reign  Honolulu  was  beautified  with 
public  buildings.  His  death  occurred  December 
II,  1872,  and  with  his  death  the  old  and  famous 
Kaniehameha  dynasty  became  extinct.  He  was 
succeeded  by  Lunalilo,  a  high  chief,  who  was 
unanimously  elected  by  the  people  as  king. 
His  rule  lasted  only  one  year,  but  it  was  noted 
for  his  introduction  of  measures  for  the  intro- 
duction of  liberal  principles,  for  the  effort  to 
secure  commercial  reciprocity  with  the  United 
States,  and  the  cession  of  the  Pearl  River  La- 
goon. He  died  February  4,  1874,  and  on  the 
twelfth  of  the  same  month  Kalakaua  was  elected 
king  by  the  legislature  against  the  determined 
opposition  of  Queen-dowager  Emma.  A  riot 
occurred  between  her  supporters  and  those  of 
Kalakaua,  and  American  warships  were  neces- 
sary to  quell  the  disturbance  and  to  restore  peace. 
In  1875  the  reciprocity  treaty  was  negotiated 
with  the  United  States,  under  whose  terms  sugar 
was  admitted  to  the  United  States  free  of  duty. 
This  treaty  stimulated  the  production  of  sugar 
to  so  great  a  degree  that  the  dutv  remitted  on 
Hawaiian  sugar  reached  five  million  dollars  a 
year.  A  very  large  amount  of  American  capital 
flowed  into  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  The  owners 
of  plantations  now  supplied  themselves  with 
labor  on  the  contract  system,  importing  Chinese 
and  Japanese  coolies  and  also  Portuguese  laborers 
from  the  Azores  and  Madeira.     The  estates  now 


hi 


\ 


!  -4 


'!< 


:  J 


82 


AKOUNn   TIIK   WORLD 


became  joint-stock  coinj)anies.  Hctwccii  1876 
and  1887,  thirty-six  thousand  coolies,  nearly 
twenty-four  thousand  of  whom  were  Chinese, 
were  brought  into  the  islands. 

Rkactions. — The  influx  of  this  heathen  cle- 
ment <>;reatly  retauled  the  progress  oi'  "Christianity 
on  the  islands.  The  king  was  prob.ibly  c.lways 
at  heart  a  heathen.  The  influence  of  his  court 
was  toward  evil  and  that  continually.  There 
was  a  revival  of  the  power  of  the  kahuna^  or 
sorcerer.  The  ban  from  the  sale  of  liquor  was 
removed,  and  the  whole  country  was  under  the 
influences  of  the  worst  elements  of  the  Inila 
dance,  and  a  spirit  of  race  hatred  permeated 
native  society.  The  Kanakas  found  themselves 
driven  from  the  plantations  and  their  former 
employments  into  the  towns  by  the  Chinese, 
Japanese,  and  Portuguese,  who  ui)on  the  con- 
clusion of  their  contracts  on  the  plantations  then 
came  to  the  towns  and  began  various  forms  of 
business.  The  Kanaka  is  a  light-hearted,  easy- 
going, self-indulgent  creature,  and  the  indus- 
trious Chinese  and  Japanese  soon  pushed  him  to 
the  wall.  The  American  Board  withdrew  the 
American  missionaries  too  soon,  and  the  native 
pastors  could  not  stand  against  the  tide  of  evil 
influences  which  flowed  in  upon  the  island. 

A  native  political  party  was  organized.  The 
cry  was,  "  Hawaii  for  the  Hawaiians  ! "  Politi- 
cal intriguers,  made  up  of  disgraced  politicians 
and  native  malcontents,  arrayed  themselves 
against  the  missionary  party  and  against  all  the 


HAWAIIAN    IIISTOKV 


«3 


lus- 

to 

the 

Live 


better  elcmcrts  of  tlic  comiiiunitv.  Kalakaua 
was  in  sympathy  with  tliis  rcvohitionary  and 
reactionary  movement.  In  1S83  this  native 
party  had  a  m  ijority  in  the  assemi)ly.  The  in- 
ihience  of  tlie  missionaries  was  bitterly  antaj^o- 
ni/ed.  Tlie  k'lu^  elected  an  American,  VV.  M. 
Ciibson,  as  premier  and  three  natives  as  mendjers 
of  the  cabinet.  White  renejrades  were  fonnd 
who  were  ready  for  any  movement  which  wonld 
brinjr  themselves  position  and  power.  In  1H87 
the  best  American  element,  joined  by  the  better 
class  of  natives  and  foreij^ners,  marched  to  the 
paiace  and  demanded  that  Kalakana  shonld  ap- 
point a  prime  minister  of  their  choice  and  shonld 
proclaim  a  new  constitution.  The  kinj^  wisely 
sidjmitted  to  these  revolutionists.  The  kinj;- 
thus  lost  many  of  the  royal  prerogatives  of  the 
curlier  day  and  the  ministers  were  made  responsi- 
ble to  the  legislature.  In  1887  the  ri^ht  to  use 
Pearl  Harbor  as  a  coaling  and  repair  station  for 
vessels  was  conveyed  to  the  United  States.  In 
1889  it  is  said  that  the  king  and  his  sister  Liliuo- 
kalani  used  all  their  influence  to  restore  the  old 
constitution. 

Kalakaua  died  in  1891  and  Liliuokalani  suc- 
ceeded to  the  throne.  She  was  born  September 
2,  1838,  and  was  married  to  John  O.  Dominis, 
an  American  who  had  been  governor  of  Oahu, 
and  who  died  August  27,  1891.  After  the  death 
of  Dominis,  A.  vS.  Kleghorn,  a  Scotchman,  was 
governor  of  Oahu.  He  is  the  father  of  the 
Princess  Kaiulani,  who  was  born  October  16, 
1875,  and  who  was  heiress  presumptive  to  the 


1 


H 


4. 


ff; 

1'.,. 


f; 


t 


,f. 


«■ 


I 


u 


l|; 

1:1, 


I' 


It' 


84 


AROUND   THE   WORI^D 


Hawaiian  tliroiic  as  niece  of  Liliuokalani.  This 
princess  has  visited  New  York  and  is  now  in 
England,  where  she  is  receivinjj  her  edncation. 
While  this  writer  was  in  Honolnln  in  Jnne, 
I.S95,  the  government  voted  this  yonng  princess 
a  yearly  sum  for  her  support.  It  was  not  felt 
that  the  government  was  under  any  legal  obliga- 
tion so  to  do,  but  that  perhaps  there  was  a  moral 
obligation  to  that  effect.  It  was  argued  also  that 
it  was  a  stroke  of  commendable  policy  to  recon- 
cile the  disaffected  natives  to  the  new  republic. 

Kalakaua  was  unqualifiedly  bad  in  all  his 
relations  to  the  people.  He  granted,  it  is  said, 
the  exclusive  right  to  a  Chinaman  to  import 
opium,  and  received  for  it  the  sum  of  eighty 
thousand  dollars.  He  immediately  granted  an- 
other Chinaman  a  similar  right,  receiving  from 
him  seventy-five  thousand  dollars,  and  left  the 
two  Chinese  merchants  to  fight  it  out  at  their 
leisure.  He  del)auched  the  suffrage ;  he  gave 
the  islands  a  reign  of  free  rum  ;  he  allowed  lepers 
their  liberty  for  a  financial  consideration.  He 
was  utterly  and  absolutely  bad.  Liliuokalani  is 
publicly  charged  with  dissoluteness  of  life  and 
of  being  under  the  influence  of  the  kahunas^ 
although  a  woman  of  natural  shrew'dness,  of 
good  education,  and  of  .some  ability  in  music 
and  literature. 

The  legislature  was  soon  split  into  factions. 
One  bill  licensing  a  gigantic  lottery  company 
was  especially  obnoxiois  to  Americans,  for  they 
felt  that  the  lottery  was  demoralizing  to  Hawaii 
and  also  to  the  United  States,  as  lotteries  had 


I 


W 


HAWAIIAN    HISTORY 


«5 


been  suppressed  in  the  latter  eonntry.  An  effort 
was  again  made  to  revive  an  opium  monopoly. 
The  Americans  who  opposed  these  legislative 
acts  had  been  leaders  in  the  revolution  of  1887. 
They  had  large  property  interests  in  the  islands. 
They  brought  such  pressure  to  bear  upon  the 
queen  that  she  frequently  changed  her  ministers; 
but,  becoming  angered,  she  finally  chose  a  cabi- 
net that  was  favorable  to  the  lottery  and  favor- 
able also  to  the  restoration  of  the  old  constitution. 
Sharp  political  and  race  antagonisms  now  were 
created,  and  all  things  were  ripe  for  some  sud- 
den movement  of  serious  import. 

The  Rkvolution.— On  the  fourteenth  of 
January,  1893,  the  legislature  was  prorogued, 
and  on  that  day  the  queen  signed  the  lottery  bill. 
Minister  Stevens,  who  then  represented  the 
United  States,  denounced  her  act  as  hostile  to 
his  government.  The  queen  was  expected  to 
promulgate  on  the  fourteenth  of  January  a  new 
constitution,  which  would  restore  the  status 
which  existed  previous  to  1887.  She  demanded 
that  her  ministers  should  countersign  this  con- 
stitution. A  great  crowd  of  the  native  party 
was  assembled  before  her  palace.  The  ministers 
refused  to  sign  the  constitution.  Lorrin  A. 
Thurston,  leader  of  the  reform  party,  advised 
that  they  declare  the  queen  in  revolution  and 
the  throne  vacant.  Soon  Thurston  had  eighty 
men  pledged  to  support  by  force  the  cabinet 
against  the  queen.  The  queen  addressed  the 
assembled  natives,  urging  them  to  return  to  their 


It 


'         I' 

r 


'('• 


i    , 


ii 


ii  1  '4 


«  ' 


; ' 


I 


V; 


V    A 


> 

r  ' 

I, 


V  1 


h 


i  r 

,11 


86 


AROUND    THK    WORIJ) 


homes,  and  complaining  that  the  ministers  had 
prevented  her  from  promnlj^atin^  tlie  constitu- 
tion which  she  had  promised. 

Finally  a  Committee  of  vSafety  was  appointed 
on  the  afternoon  of  that  day,  and  this  committee 
decided  to  depose  the  (pieen,  establish  a  pro- 
visional government,  and  strive  for  the  annexa- 
tion of  the  islands  to  the  United  States.  On  the 
afternoon  of  January  j6,  mass  meetings  were 
held,  both  by  the  supporters  and  opposers  of  the 
government.  The  Committee  of  Safety  sent  a 
petition  to  the  United  States  minister  begging 
for  protection.  He  had  arrived  on  the  man-of- 
war  "  Boston  "  from  another  part  of  the  islands. 
Minister  Stevens  requested  Captain  Wiltse,  of 
the  "Hoston,"  to  land  marines  and  sailors  to 
protect  the  United  States  legation  and  to  secure 
the  safety  of  American  life  and  property.  After- 
ward the  Committee  of  Safety  regretted  having 
asked  for  the  intervention  of  United  States  troops, 
but  the  troops,  one  hundred  and  sixty  strong, 
had  already  landed.  These  matters  have  been 
the  subject  of  much  discussion  in  the  American 
papers  and  in  the  American  Congress. 

EvSTABLiSHMENT  OK  THK  REPUBLIC. — There 
is  space  here  only  to  give  the  barest  outline  of 
the  proceedings  which  resulted  in  the  establish- 
ment, first  of  a  provisional  government,  and  later 
of  a  republic  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  The 
United  States  minister  gave  official  recognition 
to  representatives  o^  the  provisional  government, 
and  the  queen,  under  protest  and  impelled  by 


1'^ 


HAWAIIAN    HISTORY 


«7 


force,  as  she  affirmed,  surrendered  "  until  such 
time  as  the  government  of  the  United  States 
shall  .  .  .  reinstate  me  in  the  authority  which 
I  claim  as  the  constitutional  sovereign  of  the 
Hawaiian  Islands."  This  aj^reement  was  ac- 
cepted by  the  representatives  of  the  provisional 
jjovernment  and  endorsed  by  Judge  Dole,  the 
president  of  that  government. 

The  mission  of  Commissioner  Blount  is  fa- 
miliar to  all  readers.  He  was  appointed  as  a 
special  Commissioner  to  Hawaii  on  the  seventh 
of  March,  three  days  after  President  Cleveland's 
inauguration.  His  open  instructions  from  Sec- 
retary Gresham  were  dated  March  ii.  He  ar- 
rived at  Honolulu  March  29.  He  declined  re- 
ceptions tendered  him  both  by  the  Hawaiian 
Patriotic  League  and  the  Annexation  Club. 
Sanford  Ii.  Dole  was  made  president  of  the 
provisional  government  in  the  proclamation  of 
January  17.  Hon.  Albert  S.  Willis,  of  Ken- 
tucky, was  appointed  Minister  to  Hawaii,  Septem- 
ber 3,  to  succeed  Mr.  Blount,  and  was  accepted 
by  President  Dole.  The  feeling  in  Hawaii  was 
intense  at  the  time,  for  it  was  fully  believed 
there  that  it  was  the  intention  of  the  President 
of  the  United  States  to  restore  the  deposed 
queen. 

The  republic  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  was 
provisionally  established  January  13,  1893.  It 
was  definitely  proclaimed  July  4,  1894,  and  San- 
ford Ballard  Dole,  president  of  the  provisional 
republic,  was  elected  president  by  the  Constitu- 
tional  Convention  for   the   first   regular   term, 


«  > 


.  Ii 


I '     i.i 


In 


:     s 


It 


H  I 


if 


wm 


h' 


4, 


88 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


i, 


I 


•VI 


i 


1 


V. 


1/  n  '< 


i 


h 


I 


^1 


ending  December  31,  1900.  The  story  of  the 
attempt  to  restore  the  qneen  is  long  and  stirring. 
On  December  19,  1893,  the  United  States  Min- 
ister presented  to  President  Dole  a  communica- 
tion informing  him  and  his  ministers  that  they 
were  expected  tc  relinquish  promptly  to  the 
deposed  queen  her  constitutional  authority  by 
the  decision  of  the  President  of  the  United 
States.  On  December  23,  President  Dole,  on 
behalf  of  the  provisional  government,  refused  to 
accept  the  proposition  of  the  United  States. 
This  refusal  was  expressed  in  a  very  able  docu- 
ment. The  right  of  President  Cleveland  to 
control  in  Hawaiian  domestic  affairs  was  vigor- 
ously denied,  and  it  was  asserted  that  the  revo- 
lution had  been  accomplished,  not  by  the  inter- 
ference of  the  United  States  forces,  but  "through 
the  representatives  of  the  same  public  sentiment 
which  had  forced  the  monarchy  to  its  knees  in 
1887,  which  suppressed  the  insurrection  in  1889, 
and  which  for  twenty  years  has  been  battling  for 
representative  government."  There  was  a  time 
of  great  anxiety  in  Honolulu  while  these  nego- 
tiations were  in  progress. 

The  provisional  government  called  a  con- 
vention which  adopted  a  constitution,  and  the 
government  was  finally  called  the  Republic  of 
Hawaii.  There  are  many  points  in  this  consti- 
tion  which  are  worthy  of  our  heartiest  com^ 
niendation,  and  the  American  Republic  might 
well  learn  important  lessons  from  this  sister 
icpublic.  The  following  statement  from  "  Ap- 
pleton's  Annual  Cyclopaedia,"  1894,  p.  344,  is 


HAWAIIAN    HISTORY 


89 


■•  )  I 


worthy  of  the  careful  consideration  of  all  Ameri- 
can citizens: 

There  is  a  president,   elected  for  six  years  and  not  re- 
ehgible,  but  no  vict'-president.     There  is  a  cabinet  of  four 
ministers,  who  are  appointed  by  tiie  president  with  the  ap- 
proval of  the  Senate,  and  are  responsible  for  the  conduct  of 
their  respective  departments  to  the   president,  who.    how- 
ever, cannot   remove   one  of  them   without    the    approval 
cither  of  the  Senate  or  of  the  other  three  members  of  the 
c.ibinet.      The  cabinet  ministers  are  ^.r  ojff.cio  members  of 
both  houses  of  the  legislature,  with  the  rights,  powers,  and 
privileges  of  elected   members,  except  the   right  to  vote 
The  legislative  power  is  vested  in  two  chambers,  a  Senate 
and  a  House  of  Representatives.      To  vote  for  a  member  of 
the  House  of  Representatives  a  citizen  must  be  a  born  or  a 
naturalized   Hawaiian,  able  to  read,  write,  and  speak  Eng- 
lish  or  the  Hawaiian  language  with  fluency.     An  alien,  to 
obtain  naturalization,  must  be  able  to  read  and  write  Engl'ish 
well,  must  possess  property  worth  two  hundred  dollars,\nd 
must  renounce  all   foreign  allegiance,  and  he  must  come 
from    a   country  with   which   Hawaii   has   a  naturalization 
treaty.     This  last  provision  meets  the  case  of  Asiatics— the 
Chinese,  who  have  been  able  to  obtain  a  large  part  of  the 
foreign  and  internal  trade,  and  the  Japanese,  who  also  com- 
pete  with  Americans  and  Europeans  in  agriculture,  horti- 
culture,  handicrafts,  and   trading,   and  whose  government 
has  persistently  demanded  equal   rights   in   naturalization 
denization,  etc.,  with  the  most  favored  nation.     All  aliens 
who  have  aided  and  supported  the  provisional  government 
are  entitled  to  naturalization  without  further  qualifications 
Electors  for  senators  must  possess  one  thousand  five  hun- 
dred dollars  worth  of  real  estate,  or  personal  property  worth 
three  thousand  dollars,  or  a  clear  income  of  six  hundred 
dollars  a  year. 

Royalist  Revoi.t.— The  native  party  in  Ha- 
waii expected  that  the  United  States  govern- 
ment would  restore  the  queen  to  the  Hawaiian 


„), 


II' 

M 


I    w< 


,  ii 


% 


;/   ^.• 


go 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


throne.  After  the  provisional  jrovcrnment  re- 
fused to  yield  up  its  authority,  the  native  party 
remained  quiet  to  see  what  President  Cleveland 
would  do ;  but  as  soon  as  the  provisional  govern- 
ment took  steps  for  the  creation  of  a  permanent 
government  the  native  party  determined  to  resist. 
A  number  of  men  who  had  seen  military  service 
in  Canada  and  elsewhere,  went  to  Hawaii,  and 
soon  there  were  indications  of  a  possible  out- 
break against  the  new  government.  The  royal- 
ist newspapers  became  bold  in  their  attacks.  It 
became  necessary  for  the  government  to  protest 
against  them,  and  some  of  the  editors  were  im- 
prisoned. In  some  royalist  houses  rifles  were 
found.  In  the  election  for  senators  and  repre- 
sentatives the  American  Union  Party  captured 
the  votes  of  the  island  of  Oahu.  The  late  re- 
public was  recognized  by  the  United  States  gov- 
ernment, and  other  powers  also  soon  gave  it 
formal  recognition. 

A  vessel  during  the  winter  landed  four  hun- 
dred rifles  near  Honolulu,  and  bands  of  revolu- 
tionists, led  by  Robert  W.  Wilcox  and  Captain 
Sam  Nowlein,  were  discovered  preparing  for 
some  outbreak.  Wilcox  had  been  connected 
with  the  attempted  revolution  of  1889.  The 
government  learned  where  the  insurgents  were 
encamped.  All  was  ready  for  the  outbreak.  Part 
of  the  plan  was  to  destroy  the  Union  Church 
with  dynamite.  Charles  L.  Carter,  while  in  the 
act  of  arresting  some  of  the  insurgents,  was  fa- 
tally shot.  The  citizens'  guard  was  called  out  to 
protect  the  city  while  Lieutenant  King  marched 


HAWAIIAN    HISTORY 


91 


*  1 


with  a  small  body  of  Union  soldiers  to  meet  the 
insurgents.  The  rebels  were  shelled  out  of  their 
position,  a  large  store  of  arms  was  found,  and 
many  of  the  natives  gave  themselves  up,  while 
others  in  a  few  days  followed  their  example. 
Martial  law  was  proclaimed,  and  many  of  those 
who  had  striven  to  restore  the  queen  were  im- 
prisoned, among  them  being  several  leading  citi- 
zens. The  penalties  inflicted  upon  the  natives 
were  light,  as  they  were  deemed  to  be  largely 
the  victims  of  half-breeds  who  were  disappointed 
in  not  getting  the  liberal  allowances  formerly 
granted  them  from  the  public  crib.  President 
Dole  and  those  associated  with  him  are  men  of 
marked  ability  and  of  equal  patriotism,  which 
will  be  fully  tested,  for  troublesome  questions 
have  yet  to  be  answered  regarding  the  future  of 
this  >oung  republic. 

No  doubt  Japan  longs  for  possession  of  these 
islands,  for  she  needs  additional  territory.  Japan 
is  a  very  small  country  for  a  population  of  forty 
millions,  which  is  increasing  at  the  rate  of  half  a 
million  each  year.  Formosa  for  a  time  will  sup- 
ply the  need  for  additional  territory,  but  only  for 
a  little  time.  Great  Britain  might  well  desire 
these  islands.  They  lie  on  the  track  of  her 
ships  from  Vancouver  to  Australia.  Should  any 
nation  send  a  man-of-war  into  the  harbor  of 
Honolulu  the  government  would  be  obliged  at 
once  to  surrender.  All  that  the  young  republic 
requires  to  make  its  success  assured  is  that  some 
strong  nation,  let  us  hope  it  may  be  the  United 
States,  will  stretch  its  mighty  hand  over  those 


m 


•1* 

'  ;» 


i 


»i; 


i 

»    i 

) 

'V; 


92 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


islands,  protecting  them  from  foreign  foes,  and 
securing  peace  within  their  own  borders.  Then 
the  young  republic  will  prove  its  right  to  exist, 
and  it  will  come  some  day,  probably  as  a  Terri- 
tory, with  the  hearty  consent  of  all  its  people, 
and  the  cordial  welcome  of  all  our  people,  into 
the  fellowship  of  the  sisterhood  of  States  of  the 
American  Republic. 


I 


f:\ 


VIII 


THE   HAWAIIAN    FUTURE 

THE  case  of  the  natives  is  truly  pathetic. 
They  are,  as  has  already  been  said,  an 
amiable,  light-hearted,  happy-go-lucky  people, 
as  delightfully  amiable  as  their  climate.  They 
were  never  cannibals,  but  were  disposed  to  be 
very  kind  to  the  first  white  men  who  came  to 
their  beautiful  islands.  The  climate  probably 
tends  to  make  them  easy-going  and  good-na- 
tured ;  it  probably  takes  from  them  somewhat 
of  enterprise  and  enthusiasm.  It  is  easy  for 
them  to  be  indifferent  to  hard  work  and  for 
some  of  them  to  be  positi^  ely  lazy.  Their 
tailor's  bill  need  not  be  large ;  their  food  bill 
may  be  almost  nothing.  Under  a  tree  they  may 
lie  and  pick  up  breadfruit,  bananas,  and  other 
fruits  with  both  hands.  They  grow  their  iaro 
and  prepare  their /w',  and  eat  it  with  one  finger, 
with  two,  or  with  three  fingers.  They  decorate 
themselves  with  garlands  of  flowers,  called  leis  ; 
some  of  them  elicit  your  admiration  for  their 
graceful  pose  and  their  impressive  movements. 
Some  of  the  women  walk  with  a  queenly  grace 
combined  with  a  coquettish  dash.  Some  women 
with  mixed  blood  are  really  beautiful,  are  thor- 
oughly cultured,  and  are  modest  and  attractive. 

93 


•  fi 


\ 


\ 


\Ia 


94 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


{/' 


31 


. 'i. 


Future  of  the  Natives. — These  islands  are 
the  most  important  Polynesian  gronp  in  the 
North  Pacific.  Many  civilizations  have  come  to 
these  shores.  Once  a  British  officer  took  pos- 
session of  Oahn  and  established  a  commission 
for  his  government,  and  once  French  officers 
promulgated  the  laws,  dictated  treaties,  and 
strove  by  force  of  arms  to  make  the  Roman 
Catholic  faith  the  religion  of  the  country.  But 
the  independence  of  the  islands  was  guaranteed 
by  the  United  States  in  1829,  and  more  formally 
in  1843,  ^"^  l^y  Great  Britain,  Belgium,  and 
France  in  1844.  The  language  is  a  branch  of 
the  great  Malayo-Polynesian  tongue.  The  later 
history  is  familiar  to  most  Americans,  and  the 
character  of  the  present  government  is  more  and 
more  receiving  the  endorsement  of  all  intelligent 
Hawaiians.     But  what  is  their  future? 

They  are  dying  out.  As  many  as  two  hun- 
dred vessels  at  one  time  have  been  in  this  har- 
bor, and  here  sailors  often  received  their  wages. 
Debauchery  ran  riot ;  wickedness  of  every  kind 
was  rampant.  Thousands  of  dollars  were  spent 
in  saloons,  and  places  of  vice  flourished.  At 
times  a  corrupt  court  sought  favor  with  officers, 
passengers,  and  crews,  by  encouraging  the  women 
to  minister  to  vice.  Diseases  multiplied.  Thou- 
sands of  the  people  have  been  swept  away  in  a 
few  months  by  epidemics.  The  coming  of  the 
missionaries  checked  many  of  the  crimes  which 
led  to  such  dire  results;  but  human  nature  is 
still  what  the  Apostle  Paul  found  it,  and  what 
all  observers  still  see  it  to  be. 


n 


■   I 


Mi. 


THE   HAWAIIAN    FUTURE 


95 


)l 


New  danjrcrs  threaten  the  Hawaiians.  They 
are  improvident,  incapable  of  prolonged  business 
application,  and  many  of  them  incapable  of  in- 
tellectual training  beyond  certain  moderate 
limits.  The  Chinese  and  Japanese  are  crowd- 
ing them  out  of  business,  out  of  the  trades,  and 
even  out  of  the  most  menial  labors,  crowding 
them  to  the  wall.  Scores  of  kinds  of  business 
once  in  their  hands  are  now  in  the  hands  of 
these  foreigners.  Few  of  them  are  now  at  the 
head  of  responsible  business  enterprises.  I  have 
talked  with  their  educated  men  and  women  until 
my  heart  sympathized  deeply  with  them  over 
the  inevitable  doom  of  their  people.  Many  of 
them  could  scarcely  repress  their  tears  as  they 
talked;  some  did  not  attempt  to  conceal  their 
grief. 

Another  danger  is  present :  their  women  marry 
these  foreigners,  especially  the  Chinese,  in  ma.iy 
cases  in  preference  to  Hawaiian  men.  The 
Chinese  take  better  care  of  their  wives  than  do 
the  native  men  ;  they  work  hard  for  them,  and 
give  them  homes,  food,  and  clothes.  In  any 
Sunday-school  you  can  see  children  of  mixed 
races.  These  children  are  said  to  be  more 
healthy  than  those  of  pure  Hawaiian  blood.  In 
this  way  the  native  race  is  becoming  absorbed. 
Perhaps  there  is  a  divine  providence  in  all  these 
movements.  Missionaries  came  here  to  work 
for  one  race,  but  God  now  has  brought  many 
races  into  the  circle  of  their  influence.  Chris- 
tian Hawaiian  women  carry  their  influence  into 
Chinese  homes,  and   children   are   brought  up 


.  h 


i. 


■•    U 


96 


AROUND  THE   WORI,D 


T 


if 


' 


r 


■S 


,;  ( 


:  'H 


-  4 


inidcr  Cliristian  teaching.  The  Hawaiian  fami- 
lies, for  reasons  that  are  not  unknown,  arc  small ; 
often  there  are  no  children.  Strange  things  are 
said  as  to  what  a  father  thinks  is  his  dnty  re- 
garding his  family  when  he  wishes  to  extend  a 
great  ''' aloha^''  welcome,  to  a  guest.  Alany 
things  thus  combine  to  make  it  almost  certain 
that  the  race,  as  pure  Hawaiian,  must  soon  pass 
away,  and  one  cannot  think  of  some  of  the  noble 
men  and  women  he  meets  here  without  sorrow 
regarding  the  future  of  their  people. 

The  Bishop  Museum. — This  name  is  familiar 
to  eye  and  ear  ;  it  is  honored  here  as  in  New 
York.  Mr.  Charles  R.  Bishop  was  a  boy  in 
Washington  County,  N.  Y.  In  company  with 
two  other  young  men,  one  of  whom  became 
Judge  Lee,  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  he  started 
for  Oregon.  The  vessel  touched  here,  and  they 
were  induced  to  remain.  IVIr.  Bishop's  wife  was 
the  heiress  of  the  late  Princess  Ruth,  the  sister 
of  Kamehameha  V.  A  few  years  ago  she  died, 
leaving  great  possessions,  and  was  buried  with 
many  honors.  She  might  have  been  queen,  and 
probably  would  have  been,  but  for  her  desire  to 
consult  her  husband  and  the  failure  to  secure  in 
time  the  needed  consultation.  Her  great  estates 
were  left  to  found  schools  and  a  museum.  Mr. 
Bishop,  now  a  man  over  seventy,  is  living  in 
San  Francisco.  He  still  gives  liberally  out  of 
his  large  wealth  to  add  new  features  to  the 
work. 

C.    M.    Hyde,  d.  d.,  is  the   vice-president  of 


i- 


J./ 


THE   HAWAIIAN   FUTURE 


97 


the  imiseum,  and  because  of  the  absence  of  Presi- 
dent Bishop  much  of  the  management  is  in  his 
hands.  The  full  name  of  the  institution  is  the 
Bernice  Panalii  Bishop  Museum.  In  1889  Mr. 
Bishop  founded  it  in  memory  of  his  wife,  and 
thus  American  and  Hawaiian  money,  sympatiiy, 
and  love,  have  sweetly  united  in  this  noble 
charity.  The  building  is  of  basalt,  quarried  in 
the  vicinity,  and  the  interior  is  superbly  finished, 
mainly  in  koa  wood  from  the  island  of  Maui. 
The  nucleus  of  the  unique  collection  was  the 
great  store  of  ^apas,  calabashes,  kahilis,  and 
other  relics  belonging  to  Mrs.  Bishop  and  be- 
queathed to  her  as  the  last  of  the  Kamehamehas. 
The  treasures  of  Queen  Emma  were  added,  as 
well  as  extensive  private  collections.  This 
young  museum  may  already  rightly  claim  first 
rank  in  kapas,  kahilis,  mats,  and  Polynesian 
stone  implements.  Eventually  the  natural  his- 
tory, as  well  as  the  ethnology,  of  Polynesia  will 
be  fully  represented. 

Nowhere  else  in  the  world  did  the  use  of 
feather  ornaments,  although  common  in  South 
America,  in  North  America,  in  India,  in  Assyria, 
and  elsewhere,  attain  such  magnificence  as  in 
the  Hawaiian  Islands.  The  birds  here  were  not 
more  highly  plumed,  but  feather-hunting  seems 
to  have  been  a  special  object  of  desire  and  attain- 
ment. Here  is  the  magnificent  feather  robe  of 
Kamehameha  the  Great,  in  making  which  thou- 
sands upon  thousands  of  birds — as  each  bird  had 
only  a  few  of  the  needed  feathers — must  have 
been   sacrificed.      Here  is  the  /&«/«72— meaning 


G 


\ 


y 


% 


V 


,1.1 
I     I' 


9« 


AROUND   TIIK   WORI.n 


->,! 


\i  ' 


"  •• 


i  '^- 1 


|r 


something  twisted  or  plaited,  and  usually  feathers 
— made  by  the  deposed  Queen  Liliuokalani  for 
Mrs.  Bishop's  funeral ;  and  so  on,  for  yards  and 
yards  of  space,  the  ornamental  feather  robes, 
varyinji;  in  size  from  a  small  cape  to  jjreat  sweep- 
ing robes.  Here  are  samples  of  i-a/>(7^  vegetable 
fibre  wrought  into  paper  or  cloth  ;  here  are  idol 
gods  of  many  patterns ;  here  household  imple- 
ments, tools,  articles  of  amusement,  articles  used 
in  war,  in  worship,  and  as  ornaments;  here 
canoes  and  relics  of  chiefs ;  here  portraits,  pho- 
tographs, corals,  birds,  shells,  etc.  All  are  ex- 
cellently well  classified,  and  when  Curator  Wil- 
liam S.  Brigham  flashes  his  explanations  on  all 
you  see,  you  are  sure  that  this  is  the  most  in- 
structive visit  you  have  made  in  the  Hawaiian 
Islands.  If  he  could  bring  this  museum  to  New 
York  and  give  a  lecture  on  it  to  our  citizens 
they  would  be  deeply  interested  and  greatly 
instructed.  Whatever  else  the  tourist  misses 
in  Honolulu,  he  ought  not  to  miss  the  Pali  and 
the  Bishop  Museum. 

"  The  Glorious  Fourth." — This  was  a 
double  celebration  here.  In  addition  to  the 
idea  which  all  good  Americans  commemorate, 
the  day  was  the  first  anniversary  of  the  Hawaiian 
Republic.  So  delicate  and  sensitive  are  all  the 
conditions  here  that  the  committee  having  the 
matter  in  charge  decided  to  limit  the  Hawaiian 
part  of  it  to  the  military  display  in  the  earlier 
morning  and  the  reception  by  President  Dole 
following   the  review  of   the    National   Guard. 


' 


U  li. 


TIIK    IIAWAIIAX    Kl^TUKH 


99 


The  noise,  in  trnc  American  style,  l)ej^ran  the 
nijrlit  before,  and  it  was  kept  np 'apparently  all 
nij^rht.  There  was  but  little  sleeping  in  Hono- 
Inlu  that  nijrht.  Very  early  in  the  niorninjr 
there  were  boat  racino;,  'horse  raein^r,  and  parades 
by  the  "^horribles,"  and  other  fantastic  or<;a!i;/a- 
tions.  Then  came  the  very  creditable  military 
display,  followed  by  the  formal  reception  friyc'n 
by  President  Dole,  'i'his  was  attended  by  the 
representatives  of  foreion  jrovernments,  by  the 
tonrists,  and  by  the  people  very  j«:enerally.  The 
reception  was  j»iven  in  the  hall  of  the  Repre- 
sentatives, Mrs.  Dole  and  other  prominent  women 
assistin<r.  Hearty  con^^ratnlations  were  j^iven 
the  president  on  the  first  anniversary  of  the 
Hawaiian  Republic. 

At  eleven  the  president  left  to  attend  the 
literary  exercises  at  Independence  Park.  He 
went  there  simply  as  a  private  citizen.  It  was 
arrancred  that  this  part  of  the  celebration  of  the 
day  should  be  distinctively  American,  and  that 
Minister  Willis  should  preside.  Indeed,  the 
meeting  to  make  arranjrements  for  the  celebra- 
tion was  call  >d  by  Mr.  Willis,  and  after  consul- 
tation with  Americans  and  American-Hawaiians, 
Minister  Willis  courteously  waited  until  the  ar- 
rival of  President  Dole  before  calling  the  meet- 
ing to  order.  When  it  was  seen  that  he  had 
entered  the  pavilion  the  audience  arose  to  do 
him  honor.  President  Dole  does  not  seek  such 
manifestations,  and  it  is  also  said  that  some  of 
the  people  would  prefer  not  to  give  them,  as  they 
savor  too  nmch  of  the  old  customs  of  royalty. 


I 


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i 


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AROUND   THK   WORl.I) 


Three  cheers,  however,  were  ^iven  in  honor  of 
the  republic's  first  president ;  they  were  honest 
clieers,  but  not  remarkable  for  enthusiasm. 
President  Dole  does  better  than  merely  excite 
enthusiasm  ;  he  commands  respect,  evokes  ap- 
preciation, and  creates  confidence. 

I'raycr  was  offered  by  Rev.  I).  V.  liirnie ;  then 
all  joined  in  sin^inj^^  "America."  Mr.  Willis 
opened  the  speakinjj^  with  a  brief,  finished,  and 
patriotic  address,  and  then  j^racefully  introduced 
Dr.  Joseph  Cook,  his  steamer  bein^  courteously 
detained  that  he  mi^ht  deliver  an  address.  Doc- 
tor Cook  spoke  with  his  characteristic  ability 
in  makings  broad  and  rapid  ^generalizations  and 
su<i;,iifesiive  national  prophecies.  He  conj^ratu- 
lated  the  people  that  in  our  day  when  a  crown 
falls  it  is  pulverized,  that  in  the  Hawaiian  Re- 
public there  is  no  color  line,  and  that  the  republic 
is  founded  on  "  Northern  principles."  He  then 
proceeded  to  answer  the  criticism  that  very  few 
had  voted  for  the  government  of  this  republic. 
He  had  just  pronounced  the  word  "administra- 
tion," when  Mr.  Willis  arose,  stopped  him,  and 
stated  to  him  and  the  audience  that  the  occasion 
was  not  one  for  a  partisan  speech.  A  vip^orous 
colloquy,  perhaps  it  might  be  called  an  alterca- 
tion, took  place  between  the  two  gentlemen. 
The  remarks  of  Minister  Willis  were  greeted 
with  applause  by  apparently  two-thirds  of  the 
audience.  The  reprimand  he  administered  was 
sharp ;  the  retort  of  Doctor  Cook  was  sharp.  Mr. 
Willis  begged  Doctor  Cook  to  remember  that  he 
was  in  the  cosmopolitan  city  of  Honolulu,  and 


Ii 


TIIK    HAWAIIAN    FUTURR 


lOI 


id 


not  in  the  limited  environment  of  Hoston ;  and 
Doctor  Cook  reminded  him  that  Hoston  had 
done  somethin{»;  for  the  Ponrtli  of  July.  The 
li^htninfj  played  brilliantly  for  a  few  minutes. 
When  ])eace  was  restored  Doctor  Cook  resumed 
his  s])eech  and  sjHjke  of  the  danj^ers  to  which 
republics  in  the  tropics  are  exposed,  expressed 
the  hope  that  annexation  mij^ht  be  secured,  and 
ur^ed  the  people  to  show  themselves  worthy  of 
annexation  by  sluwinj^  themselves  to  be  fully 
capable  of  self-j^^overnment.  Doctor  Cook  then 
left  for  his  steamer. 

The  Declaration  of  Independence  was  read, 
and  then  Mr.  E.  P.  Dole,  the  cousin  of  President 
Dole,  delivered  the  oration  of  the  day.  It  was  a 
well-prepared  speech,  and  tliouj>;h  not  effectively 
delivered,  its  jT^enuine  American  patriotism  g^ave 
it  a  hearty  reception.  In  the  afternoon  a  bril- 
liant company  attended  the  reception  ^iven  by 
Minister  and  Mrs.  Willis  at  the  American  Lep^a- 
tion.  This  occasion  was  in  every  way  delig^htful. 
In  the  eveninjy  there  were  fireworks  before  the 
executive  buildings  and  the  streets  were  filled 
by  j^^ood-natured  crowds.  There  was  consider- 
able jollity,  but  little  visible  drunkenness. 

As  was  to  be  expected,  the  Cook-Willis  episode 
of  the  morning  formed  a  topic  of  frequent  con- 
versation in  the  afternoon,  and,  as  was  also  to  be 
expected,  opposing  sides  were  taken  with  great 
earnestness.  Some  American  tourists,  American 
residents,  and  American  Hawaiians  supported 
Doctor  Cook  with  much  feeling.  One  American 
tourist,  a  member  of  Congress,  was  especially  em- 


I 


i 

I    ■■■' 


Kl 


I 


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ii 


,>i.-.  1. 


I!  ' 


f  i 


>l: 


102 


AROUND    TIIK    WORM) 


pliatic  ill  dcnoimcinp^  what  lie  called  "the  cow- 
ardly treatment  which  Doctor  Cook  received." 
Others  blamed  the  committee  who  secured  him 
and  who,  as  it  was  claimed,  desertcci  him  when 
they  should  have  endorsed  him.  They  said,  with 
an  element  of  truth,  that  he  was  reprimanded 
before  he  had  really  offended.  Others  replied 
that  in  a  sermon  and  in  a  lecture,  and  also  in 
the  early  part  of  his  address,  he  had  given  hints 
which  clearly  showed  that  he  was  about  to  pass 
adverse  criticisms  on  the  administration  at 
Washington,  and  that  this  was  neither  the  time 
nor  place  for  any  partisan  discussion. 

Both  ]\Ir.  Willis  and  Doctor  Cook  are  well 
able  to  take  care  of  themselves.  The  audi- 
ence was  largely  with  IMinister  Willis,  and  so 
have  been  the  Honolulu  papers  of  all  shades  of 
political  opinion.  It  was  clearly,  in  the  popular 
mind  at  least,  a  local  triumph  for  the  American 
minister.  Mr.  Willis  came  to  fill  a  most  delicate 
position  ;  few  men  are  ever  called  by  our  govern- 
ment to  perform  a  more  difficult  task.  There 
were  prominent  American  Hawaiians  who  hon- 
estly objected  to  some  of  his  positions  as  Amer- 
ican minister ;  but  they  even  then  respected  him 
as  an  American  citizen,  and  as  a  Christian  gen- 
tleman. The  first  grounds  of  their  dissent  are 
now  largely  removed,  and  their  respect  for  Mr. 
WillivS,  in  the  particulars  named,  is  daily  in- 
creasing. Air.  Willis  has  certainly  striven  to 
carry  out  his  instructions  in  circumstances  more 
trying  than  those  in  which  our  ministers  are 
often  placed. 


W  ..  i«*  a 


THK    HAWAIIAN    KUTURK 


103 


TiiK  Hawaiian  "  Fourth."— Tlie  Hawaiian 
anniversary  was  not  nincli  in  e\-idence.     Perliaps 
it  was  better  tliat  it  was  comparatively  incon- 
spicnous.     The  repnblic  is  only  one  year  old  ; 
"unreconstructed"  Hawaiians  there  are  in  con- 
siderable numbers,  and  there  are  great  difficul- 
ties to  be  overcome.    It  would  have  been  unwise 
to  challenge  unduly  any  elements  of  opposition, 
and  unwise  to  speak  with  even  seeming  boast- 
fulness  of  vvhat   has  been  achieved.     President 
Dole  is  a  wise  man  and  marked  by  great  self- 
poise.     He  can  be  silent  when  silence  is  golden ; 
he  can  speak  when  speech  is  golden.     His  cab- 
inet is  made  up  of  men  who  are  alert,  thoughtful, 
and   patriotic.     The  American  flag  was  "every- 
where ;  the  Hawaiian  flag  was  only  occasionally 
seen  on  private  houses  and  shops.     It  is,  how- 
ever, extremely  difficult  to  say  just  when  a  man 
here   is   an  American    and   when    a    Hawaiian. 
Has  a  man  ceased  to  be  an  American  when  he 
has  taken  the  oath  of  allegiance  to  the  Ha\vaiian 
Republic  ?     So  it  seems  to  have  been  decided  in 
responsible  quarters.     Then  was  this  "  Fourth  " 
American  or  Hawaiian  ?    Who  can  tell  ?     Rnt  if 
a  man  by  taking  oath  to  the  Hawaiian  Republic 
has  ceased  to  be  an  American,  is  he  liable  to  the 
income    tax?     That  was  once  a  very  practical 
question  here  ;  fortunately,  it  is  now  out  of  tiie 
way.     If   all  who  have   taken    the  oath  to  the 
Hawaiian  Republic  have  ceased  to  be  Americans 
then  the  "Fourth"  at  Independence  Park  was 
far  more  a  Haw^aiian  than  an  American  celebra- 
tion.    Things  are  mucli  complicated  here. 


m 


< 


11  r 


!-'♦• 


104 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


\ 
III 


r? 


!  i' 


! 


But  ill  any  case  this  mid-ocean  republic  is 
moving  forward.  The  people  have  undertaken 
to  establish  here  a  true  republic,  to  give  equal 
justice  to  all,  and  to  guarantee  the  equitable  ad- 
ministration of  the  aflFairs  of  all  the  people.  Th:- 
republic  is  scarcely  an  experiment  now,  for  it 
has  shown  itself  capable  of  preserving  its  own 
existence  and  of  making  needed  reforms.  It  is 
building  roads  which  are  opening  up  large  por- 
tions of  the  islands.  It  is  conducting  all  its 
affairs  with  intelligence,  firmness,  capacity,  and 
honesty.  It  is  without  doubt  the  purest  gov- 
ernment to-day  on  the  earth.  It  unites  firm- 
ness with  leniency,  and  it  happily  combines 
mercy  and  justice.  It  has  shown  that  in  a  re- 
public the  hand  of  law  can  be  firm  and  the 
stroke  of  justice  sure  as  in  a  monarchy.  The 
pardon  of  a  goodly  number  of  political  prisoners 
on  the  first  anniversary  of  the  republic  was  an 
act  both  just  and  politic  on  the  part  of  the  gov- 
ernment. The  refusal  to  grant  pardons  at  pres- 
ent to  the  real  offenders  was  an  act  equally  just 
and  politic.  In  due  time,  it  is  generally  believed, 
other  pardons  will  follow.  May  the  Republic  of 
Hawaii  prosper!  May  it  live  long  enough  to 
prove  its  right  to  self-existence,  and  to  receive, 
perhaps  on  the  expiration  of  President  Dole's 
term  of  ofBce,  if  not  before,  an  entrance  under 
some  form  of  dependency  into  the  sisterhood  of 
States,  with  the  enthusiastic  welcome  of  all  pa- 
triotic Americans  and  with  the  glad  and  grate- 
ful consent  of  all  patriotic  Hawaiians.  For  this 
happy  consummation  let  us  all  labor  and  pray. 


'H: 


IX 


RELIGIOUS  DEVELOPMENT  OF   HAWAII 

TT  certainly  was  true  of  tlie  Hawaiian  Islands 

A      as  the  prophet  Isaiah  long  a<ro  said  •   "  The 

isles  shall  wait  for  his  law."     As  early  as  the 

autumn  of  1809,  the  Hawaiian  boy,  Obookia,  told 

Samuel  J.  Mills  his  simple  story. 

OBOOKiA.--During   one   of    the    many    wars 
which  prevailed  among  the  petty  kings  of  those 
islands,  Obookia's  parents  were  killed.     Takiu'r 
his  infant  brother  on  his  back,  Obookia  sough^t 
a  place  of  safety;  but  the  child  was  killed  and 
he  himself  was  taken  prisoner.    His  life  abounded 
lu  strange  adventures,  and  at  the  age  of  fourteen 
he  came  to  New  Haven,  Connecticut,  with  a  sea 
captain.     He  longed  for  an  education,  but  the 
prospect  of  securing  it  was  very  discouraging, 
lu  his  disappointment  he  sat  on  the  collejre  step 
and  wept  bitterly.     His  presence  in  New  Haven 
and  his  strong  desire  for  an  education  soon  at' 
racted  the  attention  of  tho.e  who  could  give 
him  practical  help.  ^ 

are^venM.ad  "•';/"  ""^^ ''  "^^"  ^^^P^^  ^^  Hawaii 
are  xeiy  bad  ;  they  pray  to  gods  made  of  wood. 

I  want  to  learn  to  read  this  Bible,  and  0-0  back 
there   and   tell    them    to   pray   to   God'^  up    in 

105 


I) 


I    * 


1    ' 


ll 


-*: 


I 


m 


i«  If  • 


il 


1 06 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


heaven."  Two  other  Hawaiian  boys  cnnie  with 
Obookia,  and  they  were  converted  to  Christianity 
in  1813.  The  interest  felt  in  these  lads  l)ecanie 
very  general  and  profonnd,  and  as  a  resnlt  a  for- 
eiti^n  mission  school  was  organized  in  181 7  at 
New  Haven,  with  these  Hawaiian  boys  among 
its  first  pnpils.  Hnt  Obookia  was  not  to  see  the 
fulfillment  of  his  desire,  and  was  not  to  preach 
the  gospel  to  his  country.  Soon  after  the  organi- 
zation of  this  school  he  died,  but  his  consistent 
life  and  peaceful  death  made  a  ^jeat  impression 
on  the  hearts  of  many  American  Christians. 

This  great  Hawaiian  field  was  white  to  the 
harvest.  God  was  leading  his  people  in  won- 
derful ways  to  begin  this  work,  and  on  Saturday, 
October  23,  18 19,  a  band  of  missionaries,  in- 
cluding Hiram  Bingham  and  Asa  Thurston,  after 
services  of  great  interest  and  solemnity,  set  sail 
for  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  The  voyage  occupied 
five  months,  and  on  March  31,  1820,  they  arrived 
at  their  destination.  The  captain  of  the  ship 
which  b'-ought  them  offered  to  remain  a  little 
time  in  the  harbor  so  that  they  might  return 
with  him.  He  believed  that  their  enthusiasm 
would  soon  expend  itself  and  they  wonld  gladly 
go  back,  but  this  captain  little  understood  the 
spirit  of  the  missionaries  and  the  purpose  of 
God.  The  missionaries  found  upon  their  arrival 
that  the  revolution  to  which  reference  is  else- 
where made  in  these  chapters  had  taken  place 
on  the  death  of  t^^e  old  king ;  they  found  also 
that  idolatry  had  been  virtually  discarded,  al- 
though not  chiefly  from  religious  motives. 


If' 


'i 


RiajGIOUS   DKVIvUOPMKNT   OK    HAWAII     107 


The  missionaries  landed  in  Kahii  Bay,  and 
soon  after  their  arrival  a  consultation,  lastinor 
fourteen  days,  took  place  between  the  king  and 
the  chiefs  regardino^  the  attitude  which  they 
should  assume  toward  the  missionaries.  There 
are  always  nominal  Christian  forei<^ners  in  hea- 
then countries  who  from  motives  of  self-interest 
are  opposed  to  Christian  missionaries,  and  it  was 
not  otherwise  in  this  case.  These  foreigners 
were  opposed  to  the  landing  of  the  missionaries, 
saying,  "  They  have  come  to  conquer  the  islands." 
But  (rod  seems  to  have  moved  upon  the  minds 
of  the  king  and  chiefs,  so  that  they  judged  more 
wisely,  and  sensibly  replied,  "  If  they  had  come 
to  conquer  the  islands  they  would  not  have 
brought  their  women  with  them."  The  king 
and  the  chiefs  were  among  the  first  pupils  of  the 
missionaries,  and  the  king's  mother,  Keopuolani, 
was  the  finst  convert.  The  missionaries  and 
their  wiv^es  gave  the  people  instruction  regarding 
the  making  and  wearing  of  appropriate  clothing, 
and  concerning  many  practical  matters  in  their 
family  life.  In  1824  ^^^^  principal  chiefs  agreed 
to  observe  the  Sabbath,  and  to  adopt  the  Ten 
Commandments  as  the  basis  of  government. 

The  missionaries  and  their  families  were  often 
bitterly  persecuted,  and  their  lives  were  occa- 
sionally endangered  by  British  and  American 
sailors.  It  is  himiiliating  that  so  often  the  foes 
of  the  missionaries  are  the  representatives  of  so- 
called  Christian  countries.  These  sailors  resented 
the  influence  of  the  missionaries,  because  it  led 
to  a  moral  reformation  which  interfered  with  the 


•'  'ii 


!l 


|l.. 


i 


1 08 


AROUNn    TIIK   WORLD 


vicious  lives  of  olficcrs  and  sailors.  In  cij^lit 
years  from  the  landinj^  of  the  lirsl  missionaries, 
there  were  l!iirty-two  missionaries,  ft)ur  linndred 
and  forty-five  native  teachers,  twelve  thonsaiid 
attendants  on  public  worship,  and  twenty-six 
thousand  puj)ils  in  schools  on  the  various  islands. 
The  Hihle  was  translated  and  circulated,  and 
many  hioh  chiefs  were  converted  and  became 
earnest  Christian  workers. 


'!  1; 


SoMK  MivSsiONARiKS. — Vermont  has  the  honor 
of  havino-  given  birth  to  Doctor  l^,inj^ham,  who 
labored  so  nobly  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands.  lie 
was  born  at  Benniro^ton  in  that  State,  October 
30,  1789.  He  was  a  man  of  undaunted  will,  of 
indexible  courao;c,  of  cheerful  disposition,  and  of 
spiritual  consecration.  These  qualifications  fit- 
ted him  in  a  marked  de<>rec  for  his  mission 
work.  His  character  was  conspicuous  for  his 
honestv,  sinceritv,  and  consistencv.  All  uood 
men  loved  him,  and  he  had  the  respect  of  even 
bad  men.  He  came  back  to  the  United  States 
in  1 84 1,  and  soon  after  his  return  he  published 
a  volume  si^'"^S  ^  history  of  the  mission.  He 
died  in  1869. 

Dr.  Asa  Thurston  was  born  in  Fitchburo^, 
Massachusetts,  October  12,  1787.  He  made  a 
careful  study  and  acquired  thorouo;li  knowledj^^e 
of  the  Hawaiian  people,  and  for  a  time  he  was 
the  instructor  of  both  Kamehameha  H.  and  Ka- 
mehameha  HI.,  and  his  influence  over  both  was 
very  g^reat.  It  is  an  interestino^  fact  that  for 
forty-eight  years  he  never  left  the  islands.     Dur- 


•■:i 
it ' 


■^I 


Ki:i.I(;iouS    DKVJ'KOi'MKNT   OK    HAWAII     KjQ 

iii.i,-  all  this  period  lie  had  the  full  respect  of 
natives  and  foreioiiers  alike.  He  cluiu^r  to  his 
work,  iiotwithstandincr  his  advanced  aj-,  until 
repeated  strokes  of  paralvsis  compelled  him  to 
desist.  On  the  eleventh  of  May,  iSGS,  at  tiie  a^e 
of  ei<rhty-onc,  he  died  in  Ilonolnln. 

Iii^  1828  a  wonderful   revival   l)e<;an  in  Oahu, 
Maui,  and   Hawaii,  and   it  is  said  that  the  mi.s- 
sionaries^sTarcely  had  time  to  eat  or  sleep.     The 
name  of  Titus  Coan  will  ever  be  associated  with 
this  jrrcat  work.      He  was  born  in  Killinoworth 
Connecticut,  February  r,  1801.     In  Au-irst,  182^' 
he  sailed  with  Rev.  William  Arinstrou<r  on  a  mis- 
sion of  exploration  to  Pata^ro„ia.     Nothiii<r  was 
accomplished  there.     He  could  not  speak  in  the 
natives;  he  and  his  companions  were  practically 
prisoners,  and  their  lives  were  in  danj^rer.     Im". 
nally  they  found  a  chance  vessel,  and  employinj,^ 
some  stratao^em  they  escaped  and  reached  New 
Ivoudon,  May,  1834.     But  Mr.  Coau's  heart  was 
in   missionary  work  and  he  could  not  be  idle 
On  December  5,  1834,  with  six  others  under  the 
American  Board  he  sailed  for  the  Hawaiian  Is- 
lands, arrivinor  at  Honolulu  June  6,  1835.     Im- 
inediately  he  was  stationed  at  Hilo ;  aiiil  there 
le  remained  for  forty-ei<rht  years— that  is  until 
lis  death.     He  was  the  Apostle  Paul  of  that  is- 
land and  of  all  the  Hawaiian  Islands. 

Some  missionary  work  had  been  done  before 
his  arrival,  so  that  about  one-third  of  the  natives 
could  read  and  a  church  of  thirty-six  members 
had  been  8:atliered.  He  at  once  began  his  apos- 
tolic tours,  and  by  the  close  of  the  year  had  made 


»  il 


'V 


::k 


k 


<•' 


no 


AROIND   TIIH    WOKI^D 


V;- 


I        4. 


i\  circuit  of  the  islands  by  canoe  and  on  foot,  a 
distance  of  three  hundred  miles.  lie  ministered 
to  both  body  and  soul  on  this  tour.  Similar 
tours  were  nunle  during  succeedin<(  years.  The 
volcanic  structure  of  the  island  made  travclinj^ 
diHicult.  Deep  ravines  and  beetlinj^  cra^s  often 
barred  his  way,  and  swollen  torrents  and  foam- 
injTf  rivers  threatened  his  life.  Soon  he  sent  out 
discreet  and  prayerful  natives,  two  by  two,  to 
care  for  the  dyin^  and  to  bring  back  the  prod- 
igals. They  visited  the  villages,  they  climbed 
the  mountains,  traversed  the  forests,  and  ex- 
plored the  glens,  looking  after  the  dying  sons  of 
Hawaii. 

In  1836  a  new  era  began  to  dawn.  Wherever 
^Ir.  Coan  preached  the  people  flocked  to  hear, 
and  at  the  close  of  his  sermons  crowds  stood 
around  him  inquiring  the  way  of  salvation.  In 
1837  nearly  the  whole  population  of  Hilo  turned 
out  to  hear  the  word.  The  sick  and  lame  were 
brought  on  litters  and  on  the  backs  of  men  ; 
villagers  came  from  many  miles  around ;  near 
the  mission  house  they  built  booths  in  which 
they  could  find  temporary  homes  that  they 
might  hear  the  word  of  God.  The  population 
of  Hilo  suddenly  swelled  from  one  thousand  to 
ten  thousand,  and  there  was  here  literally  a 
great  camp-meeting  for  two  years.  Meetings  for 
prayer  and  instruction  were  held  daily,  and 
schools  were  established  for  old  and  young. 
Often  ten  hours  of  the  day  were  spent  in  teach- 
ing, preaching,  and  praying.  Father  Coan  him- 
self preaching  nearly  all  day  at  times. 


<^<\' 


RKUGIOUS  DKVKLOPMKNT  OK   HAWAII    ill 


At  intervals  the  people  cultivated  their  tare 
patches.  They  also  soucrht  food  in  tlic  ocean. 
The  women  taught  the  children  to  sew,  to  braid 
mats,  to  have  regard  to  their  persons,  and,  in  a 
vvord,  to  observe  the  proi)rieties  of  a  Christian 
civilization.  At  any  hour  of  the  day  or  nij^ht  a 
tap  of  the  bell  was  sufficient  to  call  together  an 
audience  of  from  three  tho.isand  to  six  thousand. 
The  staple  theme  was  the  great  salvation  through 
Jesus  Christ.  Many  cried  aloud  for  mercy. 
Often  the  sound  of  weeping  silenced  the  voice 
of  the  preacher,  and  there  were  terrible  displays 
of  divine  power.  Often  grossly  wicked  men 
and  women  fell  in  deep  conviction.  Thieves 
brought  back  what  they  had  stolen  ;  quarrels 
were  reconciled  ;  the  lazy  became  industrious  ; 
drunkards  stopped  drinking  ;  lewdness  ceased ; 
and  murderers  confessed  their  crimes. 

There  were  also  certain  startling  physical  phe- 
nomena. Some  of  these  phenomena  seemed  to 
be  divine  visitations.  On  November  7,  1837, 
Mr.  Coan  says  : 

"  As  we  were  calling  our  domestics  together 
for  prayer  we  heard  a  heavy  sound  as  of  a  falling 
mountain  on  the  beach.  This  was  succeeded  by 
loud  wailings  and  cries  of  distress  extending  for 
miles  around  the  shores  of  the  bay.  The  sea 
had  all  of  a  sudden  risen  in  a  gigantic  wave 
which,  rushing  in  with  the  rapidity  of  a  race- 
horse, jiad  fallen  on  the  shore,  sweeping  every- 
thing into  ijidiscriminate  ruin.  The  wave  fell 
like  a  bolt  from  heaven,  and  no  man  had  time 
to   escape.     In  a  moment  hundreds  of   people 


I 


'  f 


lljTi 


I 


112 


AROUND   Till-;    WOUI.l) 


I 
I 


n 


1/ 


were  stnijL;^liii}^  with  the  ra^in}^-  l)ill()\vs  and 
ainidsl  tlie  wreek  ol"  their  eartlilv  all.  vSoiiie 
were  dashed  on  the  shore  ;  some  were  drawn  ont 
by  friends  ;  some  were  carried  ont  to  sea  by  the 
reeedinj;'  enrrent,  and  some  sank  to  rise  no  more. 
It  was  probably  the  eiTeet  of  a  snbmarine  vol- 
canic eruption  near  the  month  of  the  harbor. 
To  the  people  it  seemed  as  the  voice  of  the  Al- 
mii^hty  (iod  when  he  speaketh,  and  it  appeared 
to  promote  the  work  of  the  Spirit  then  j^oinj;' 
on." 

The  work  went  on  durini^  the  followini;^  year. 
Mr.  Coau  labored  earnestly  in  trainini;  the 
children,  and  anion<^  the  converts  were  many 
of  these.  Anions^  them  were  also  the  yonnj^ 
and  strong;-,  the  old  and  decrepit,  the  lame,  the 
blind,  the  withered,  the  paralytic,  and  men  and 
women  who  had  been  j^nilty  of  almost  every  sin. 
Months  of  carefnl  scrntiny  were  passed  before 
these  persons  were  admitted,  and  the  test  of 
years  showed  that  the  transformations  were 
wronj^lit  by  a  power  beyond  that  of  teacher  or 
preacher.  The  indnstries  of  civilization  largely 
took  the  place  of  savaore  indolence.  The  Sab- 
bath was  generally  observed,  and  a  larj^^e  ])ropor- 
tion  of  the  people  learned  to  read  and  write. 
Cluirches  were  bnilt,  homes  were  improved, 
fields  cnltivated,  and  the  whole  aspect  of  the 
conntry  improved.  The  cluirches  beg^an  to 
reach  out  in  true  missionary  endeavor  to  other 
islands,  and  sent  a  considerable  number  of  their 
members  to  the  Micronesian  Islands. 

Mr.    Coan's   later   years    were    ^iven    to    the 


ir 


'^ 


Rl<:i.I(;i()lJS    DI'VlvI.Ol'MIvNT    Ol'    MAVVAII     I  I  ;^ 

clmrch  in  Hawaii,  and  in  1S.S2,  durinj;  aiiotlier 
revival,  he  was  stricken  with  paralysis,  and  in 
his  eij^hty-second  year  died  in  the  Irinniphs 
of  faith.  He  was  not  only  an  apostolic  mis- 
sionary, l)iit  also  a  carefnl  observer  of  natnre, 
and  he  contrihnted  ninch  to  the  scientific  knowl- 
edge of  the  islands. 

The  name  of  Richard  Armstrong  will  ever  he 
held  in  sacred  remend>rance  hecanse  of  his  mis- 
sionary labors  in  these  islands.  Doctor  Arm- 
stron^r's  noble,  nsefnl,  and  honored  life  was 
bronj^dit  to  a  close  by  his  beino^  thrown  from  his 
horse,  a  fortnij^dit  after  which  he  died  at  Ilono- 
Inhi,  vSeptend)er  23,  1860.  Mis  family  name 
was  still  fnrther  honored  by  the  noble  life  and 
snpcrb  service  of  his  son,  (General  Armstron<^^ 

FoRiaoN  CiiURCiiKs. — There  arc  such  public 
buildinj^rs  as  the  Odd  Fellows'  Mall,  Public 
Library,  and  the  Younj^  Men's  Christian  As- 
sociation Mall.  Its  readinor-room,  parlors, 
j,^ymnasium,  and  hall  are  all  well  arranj^ed  an<l 
appropriate.  It  is  always  delightful  to  the 
Christian  tourist  to  see  in  foreijT^n  cities  the 
words,  "  Younor  Men's  Christian  Association," 
over  a  buildinj:^.  A  sense  of  kinship  and  Chris- 
tian fellowship  at  once  conies  into  the  heart. 
Rev.  H.  W.  Peck,  durin^r  the  absence  of  the 
secretary,  is  ably  performincr  his  duties.  On 
November  4,  1894,  he  oro-anized  an  Kn^lisli- 
speakincr  Methodist  church.  It  lias  now  a  mem- 
bership of  forty-three,  and  it  is  expected  that  a 
suitable  church  edifice  will  be  erected   during- 


»   I. 


I 


^ 


»  ^^ 


Vll 


:i 


I'  ' 

I* 


i 


(I 


114 


AR(U'N'I)    TIM'    WOUI.n 


the  i)rcsctit  year.  Mr.  Peck  is  also  cluiplain  of 
the  Senate.  Tliere  is  a  (lerman  Metluxlist 
eliureli  here,  wliieh  meets  in  tlie  Vonnj;  Men's 
Christian  Association  Hall.  Th"  ))astor  is  Kev. 
ly.  IC.  vSchneider.  He  ])reaclies  to  ^oovl  conj^rc- 
j^ations  and  condncts  the  only  Christian  work 
in  the  city  for  (iernians  in  their  own  lanj^naj^e. 
There  is  also  a  Japanese  Methodist  chnrch,  with 
Kev.  H.  Kihara  as  pastor.  This  church  also 
was  orj^anized  in  November,  1894.  It  now  has 
a  membership  of  over  fifty. 

Onr  Methodist  brethren  are  condnctinj^  a 
work  on  the  I'vwa  plantation  for  ICnj»lisli-sj)eak- 
in^  people,  and  they  have  a  Jajianese  preacher 
on  the  vSprecklesville  plantation,  who  preaches 
to  nearly  one  thonsand  Japanese  laborers.  The 
Methodist  Episcopal  Chnrch  believes  that  these 
islands  are  soon  to  form  a  part  of  the  ITnited 
States,  and  their  work  here  is  put  npon  the  .same 
basis  as  their  work  in  the  United  States.  Their 
Hawaiian  work  belonjr.s  to  the  California  Con- 
ference and  is  j»;overned  as  snch,  beinj>^,  as  I 
nnderstand  the  matter,  the  only  case  of  tlie  kind 
in  their  work  ontside  of  the  United  States. 

All  the  denominations  will  soon  be  in  Hono- 
Inlu.  The  Con^rejjational,  ICpiscopal,  Metho- 
dist, Roman  Catholic,  Christian,  Adventist,  and 
Mormon  Cluircli,..'S  are  already  here ;  so  is  the 
Salvation  Army.  It  is  qnite  certain  that  a  rea- 
sonable mnltiplication  of  evanj^^clical  churches 
will  greatly  assist  all  the  interests  of  onr  common 
Christianity,  and  vigorous,  aggressive  evange- 
listic work  is  needed  both  for  natives  and  for- 


■ 


1 


1. 


kKi.KiiofS  1)I':vi;i.oi'.mi:nt  (ji-  iiawaii   115 


cij^ncrs  on  tlu'sc  islaiuls.  Then.'  is  a  j^oodly 
iminhcr  of  baptists  in  Honolulu.  Tlu-y  arc  now 
at  work  in  (lilTc'icnt  churches,  and  sonic  of  thcni 
arc  lutpinj^  that  the  day  may  soon  conic  when 
they  can  orj^^ani/c  for  earnest  Christian  work  in 
fidl  harmony  with  their  interpretation  of  the 
commands  of  Christ. 

The  stay  in  Honolulu  was  in  a  sense  a  busy 
time  in  si;.;lit-seein^,  receiving-  and  returning' 
.social  courtesies,  and  in  speakinj^  and  writing. 
It  was  also  a  delightful  time.  Nothing  can  sur- 
pass the  hospitality  of  the  ])cople  of  Honolulu. 
The  dinner  at  the  American  Legation,  with  its 
choice  company  of  guests,  representing  the  gov- 
ernments of  three  nations,  the  navy  and  knight- 
hood, and  also  three  denominations  by  their 
clergy,  will  continue  to  be  a  pleasant  memory. 
Baskets  of  fruit  and  flowers  testified  to  the  kindly 
thought  of  the  donors  toward  a  newcomer  in 
this  cosmopolitan  city  when  he  returned  from 
Hilo.  The  groups  on  the  dock  and  the  fraternal 
farewells  take  their  place  among  memory's 
treasures.  To  the  Hawaiian  Islands  I  give  my 
warmest  "  Aloha,"  and  with  another  I  sing,  per- 
haps with  the  exaggeration  in.separable  appar- 
ently from  a  visit  liere  : 

Hawaii  nei — of  many  one  thou  art, 

Each  scattered  fragment  an  essential  part. 

No  jeweled  setting  is  more  fair  than  thee, 
O  em' raid  cluster  in  a  beryl  sea. 

Thy  life  is  music  ;  Fate,  the  notes  prolong  ! 
Each  isle  a  stanza  and  the  whole  a  song. 


'H 


i 
m 


'1! 


[''< 


X 


X 


AT  SEA   AGAIN 


THE  departure  from  Honolulu  was  worthy 
of  description.  So  great  was  the  hospi- 
tality of  the  Honolulu  friends  that  leaving  them 
was  not  unlike  leaving  home  again.  Rev.  T.  D. 
Garvin  courteously  drove  me  to  the  wharf,  which 
was  crowded  with  the  people  of  the  town  who 
had  come  to  see  the  steamer  leave.  The  arrival 
and  departure  of  the  steamers  are  events  of  great 
interest  in  this  island  city.  As  I  stepped  on  the 
gangway  two  native  women,  whom  I  had  met 
several  times  at  the  services  of  the  Christian 
Church,  threw  over  my  head  garlands  of  flowers, 
the  beautiful  Icis  which  form  a  marked  feature 
in  the  life  of  Honolulu. 

The  natives  are  fond  of  flowers,  and  the  leis 
they  make  with  rare  skill  and  beauty.  The 
white  people  have  adopted  the  custom  of  adorn- 
ing themselves  with  these  garlands,  and  often 
passengers  are  almost  covered  with  these  ex- 
pressions of  affection  and  taste.  Civ'ilization  is 
robbing  the  world  of  the  original  peculiarities 
of  different  countries,  but  this  unique  Hawaiian 
custom  ought  to  survive.  My  appearance  as  I 
went  on  board  the  steamer  would  have  amused 
friends  at  home  to  Vv'hom  this  beautiful  Hawaiian 

ii6 


V^ 


AT   SEA    AGAIN 


117 


1 


custom  is  unknown.  The  kindness  of  these 
women  was  characteristic  of  the  warm-hearted 
race  to  which  they  belong. 

At  the  head  of  the  gang-plank  stood  Mrs.  S. 
A.  Oilman  and  Dr.  and  ]\Irs.  Gulick  and  others. 
Mrs.  Gilman's  thonghtfulness  was  shown  in 
gifts  of  choice  flowers  and  luscious  fruits.  This 
worthy  woman  once  had  for  pastors,  Drs.  D.  C. 
Eddy  and  A.  H.  Burlingham ;  but  for  fifteen 
years  she  had  not  witnessed  the  observance  of 
the  ordinance  of  baptism  until  it  was  adminis- 
tered by  Mr.  Garvin  of  the  Christian  Church 
soon  after  he  went  to  Honolulu.  She  cannot 
now  speak  without  tears  of  the  joy  she  experi- 
enced when  she  again  witnessed  our  Lord  s  sig- 
nificant and  beautiful  ordinance.  It  is  a  thou- 
sand pities  that  so  many  churches  rob  themselves 
of  the  symbolic  teaching  and  great  spiritual 
blessings  which  accompany  the  observance  of 
the  Lord's  baptism. 

It  was  a  pleasure  to  receive  the  good-bye  of 
Mr.  Edward  L.  Marshall,  formerly  of  the  War- 
burton  Avenue  Church,  Yonkers.  The  basket 
of  delicious  Hawaiian  grapes  w^iich  he  sent  to 
cabin  No.  27  gave  daily  pleasure  during  the  en- 
tire journey  to  Yokohama.  The  raising  of 
grapes  of  this  excellent  quality  is  practically  a 
new  industry  at  Honolulu ;  it  is  as  yet  largely 
in  the  hands  of  the  Portuguese,  and  promises 
soon  to  be  a  very  valuable  addition  to  the  pro- 
ducts of  the  island  of  Oahu.  The  courtesy  of 
the  Hon.  Francis  M.  Hatch,  minister  of  foreign 
affairs,  and  of  Mr.  F.  W.  Damon  in  coming  to 


V; 


it  h 


\ 


I-: 


I, 


I 

I 


''i 


Hi 


ii8 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


give  their  good  wishes  to  the  departing  visitor 
was  much  appreciated.  The  Hawaiian  band 
played  national  and  other  airs,  the  Hawaiian 
boys  dived  for  pennies  ;  the  numerous  American 
and  Hawaiian  friends  waved  tiieir  good-byes, 
and  soon  the  good  ship  "  Coptic  "  slowly  glided 
out  of  the  harbor  over  the  many  colored  waves ; 
and  before  long  the  many  colored  hills  faded  out 
of  sight.  Honolulu  is  now  a  beautiful  memory. 
The  boundless  expanse  of  the  Pacific,  typifying 
infinite  space,  is  on  every  side ;  and  three  thou- 
sand five  hundred  miles  distant  are  the  shores  of 
Japan.  To  God  body  and  soul  are  committed 
anew,  as  with  thoughts  of  family  and  church, 
the  face  is  turned  toward  the  distant  coast. 


I  '' 

It 

it 


ri 


The  Ship  and  Passengers. — The  "Coptic" 
is  a  good  ship.  She  once  sailed  in  the  White 
Star  fleet  in  the  Australia  trade,  but  recently  she 
was  entirely  overhauled  and  put  into  this  trade. 
She  arrived  in  Honolulu  a  day  before  her 
schedule  time,  thus  affording  the  passengers 
from  San  Francisco  an  opportunity  to  get  a  good 
view  of  the  Hawaiian  capital  before  proceeding 
on  their  journey  to  Yokohama.  The  ship  is 
scrupulously  neat  and  clean  in  every  part ;  the 
cabin  and  table  linen  is  abundant  and  spotless. 
She  is  officered  by  Englishmen  and  Americans. 
Captain  Lindsay  is  a  Scotch-Englishman  and, 
although  only  in  middle  life,  is  an  experienced 
officer.  The  steward  is  a  mulatto  who  has  had 
much  experience  in  catering  for  clubs  in  San 
Francisco,  and  thoroughly  understands  his  bus- 


>) 


? 


AT   SEA   AGAIN 


119 


iness.  The  cooks,  the  waiters,  and  the  crew  are 
all  Chinese  ;  and  the  captain  says  that  under 
proper  leadership  there  are  no  better  sailors  It 
is  said  by  the  steward  that  when  he  has  trained 
his  men  for  their  work  there  are  no  better  cooks 
and  waiters  than  the  Chinese.  They  are  docile, 
workful,  and  faithful.  They  do  not  steal,  as  the 
steward  says  other  waiters  and  cabin-stewards 
always  do.  There  is  no  show  of  authority  any- 
where on  the  ship,  but  the  discipline  is  all  the 
more  effective  because  it  is  not  manifested  in 
the  reiteration  of  commands.  The  table  is  ex- 
cellent and  the  ship  is  thoroughly  v  ^ntilated.  In 
this  latter  respect  great  improvements  have  been 
made  on  most  ships  in  quite  recent  years. 

There  were  only  twenty-two  cabin  passengers, 
and  we  were  all  grateful  that  the  number  was 
so  small.  Each  passenger  who  so  desired  could 
have  an  entire  sleeping  cabin ;  and  only  those 
who  have  had  a  disagreeable  cabin-mate  in 
rough  weather  at  sea  can  fully  appreciate  the 
blessing  of  being  alone.  Even  if  the  cabin- 
mate  is  agreeable  and  the  weather  is  pleasant, 
still  it  is  a  great  privilege  to  be  alone  rather 
than  with  a  stranger.  Among  our  number  were 
two  young  men  who  had  been  with  me  on  the 
"Australia"  from  San  Francisco  to  Honolulu; 
at  the  latter  place  these  two  young  men  from 
Milwaukee  were  joined  by  an  American  Ha- 
waiian. They  had  been  fellow-students  at  Har- 
vard, and  were  on  their  way  around  the  world, 
and  having  plenty  of  time  and  other  necessary 
requisites,  they  expected  to  take  about  two  years 


i.W 


tli 


.?. 


VI' 


vf] 

Jill 


1  ->tl 


AI^Ol'M)     \'\\\i    WOKI.D 


1; 


!i 


i 


V 


foi  \\\c  liip;  \n\\  soiiu^  nl"  iis  l\>i  \  ( » \  obvious 
unisons  o;inuot  ti;»\rl  so  I<MstiH'l\.  TluMi'  \\r\v 
two  Ktissi.iu  ]>lnsiiMinis  who  luul  \h'v\\  scnl  oiil 
In  tlu  it  iMniMutn(M\l  to  m;«lv('  m  (■.nilnl  sIikIn  oI 
m11  thiU  inrdiv'.d  siiiMUt"  Iims  IcmhumI  (tf  cliolci;!. 
Tlun  \\.\i\  lu'iMi  in  Talis,  l.othloo,  ami  N('\v  N'oiU, 
tluMi  llun  ha«l  I'losstd  llu-  rontiiuMil  to  San 
iMaui-isoo,  and  altn  sjH'ndini;  s»Mnc  (inu^  in 
japan  t1u\  wotiUl  visit  \'ladivost(>U,  and  so  km*  h 
honu\ 

At  tl\r  t'a]>tain's  taMc,  in  adililion  to  tlio 
\A>unv>  iMMUloinrn  naint^il  and  soino  ol"  tlio 
\onnv;oi  otlictMS  o'i  {\\v  ship,  wo  had  a  small  h»it 
inttM(\stini;  i^ronp  ol"  nnssionarics.  I'iist  of  th(^ 
niunlni  is  Mis.  J.  \V.  l.anilnith,  who  with  hoi 
lato  hiislvind,  the  Kt^v.  J.  W.  l.anihnth,  saiU-il 
tVoni  .\"ow  VotU,  in  Mav,  iSsj,  loi  C'hina,  as  a 
inissionavv  nndoi  {he  thvcotitui  t>f  tlic  IM.  1{. 
Chnudi,  vSonth.  Thov  hoi;an  Ihciv  work  in 
i>]iain;hai,  and  o«Mitiniicd  in  it  there  until  jul\", 
iSS(\  wIkmi    thev   shared   in    the    plautini^    ol"   a 

cimilii       w.mI.-       Ill       l■l1^•l11  l^i^.-liii'       1    'iiitKiiMi     /li.l 


lor  nianv  vears  slie  eomlneted  tlie  (.  Ii^jnon  vSehool 
for  i;irls  in  vShanohai.  »She  also  t\nindetl  the 
dav  sehools  for  children  aiul  Hihle  wtMueii.  On 
reaehius:;  j-M"*-^"  both  beiian  the  study  of  Japanese 
with  the  enthusiasm  of  xi^alh.      To  the  success- 


AT    SI'.A     A<.AIN 


121 


li 


ho 


liil  liiiliishiiil  Miiil  I'lihlc  'ri;iiiiiii}'  S<  ImioI  vvlii(  Ii 
llu  V  <sl.il>li:ili((|  III  Kniic,  Ml-,.  |,;iiiiIhi||i  is  now 
iclliniill}^',      l<»     |)l||      il      nil     ;i     iittii      |),|.'.i',.        hiKlnl 

l,;iinltiil)i  (lied  in  KoIm  ,  in  Apiil,  fH(^^,  and  is 
I'liiicd  llictr.  'I'Ik  it  m.ii,  Dr.  W.  K.  I,;iiiil»iit li, 
NVJis  lot  MV(M;il  \(;iis  ;i  tnr<Ii(;il  tnissicui.'ii  y  in 
CliiiiM  ;  lie  is  now  <»nc  (»r  (lie  sccicl.'u  irs  of  llic 
n«»;ir(l  <•!  Missions,  loculcd  in  N;islivillc,  'IViin. 
TluMi  (hnidiln  is  llic  vvilr  of  VV.  11.  I'aik,  m.  i»., 
willi  whom  slu"  is  now  iclntnint;,  \\v  lo  l;ik»- 
cliMijM'  ol  Ili(>  tnissicdi  lios|)it;il  in  Snochow, 
CMiiii;!.  Tlir  \(>nnj>ci  son  is  shidvin^'  nicdi(  inc 
in  Ain(Mi<;i,  Mild  hopes  l;i|(i  (<.  join  l)o(loi  l';iik 
in  Ihc  Iiospil.'il  woik  in  vSoochow.  The  chihhcii 
thus  show  Ihc  liiic  niissiotiMtv  spirit. 

Willi  Ihoni  is  Miss  Nn  Kin^  \'A\yr^  m.  i».,  ;i 
most  inltMcslini;  \oiitu»  Chinese  woman.  F  let- 
name  means  ( '.oldeti  Ni}^hfinJ^de  Ciaiil.  She 
eanie  to  Anietiea  eleven  yeats  a^M»  and  was  al 
that  time  nnahh-  l()  speak  a  woni  of  Ivnj^dish. 
I  ler  prandial  her  was  one  of  the  eat  liest  eon  verts  ; 
he-r  lathet  was  a  MethocUst  pnaeher  and  presifl- 
JJij^^  cidti.  'Pheic  were  three  ehihhcn  -one,  tlie 
.son,  was  a  missionary,  one  (kiii^diler  a  teaeher, 
and  this  oiu-  a  mediea!  missionary.  vSlie  was 
}4ra(hialc>d  with  honots  at  the  Woniatrs  Me(h"eal 
ColIe|>e,  IMiikidelphia,  in  i.S<;,|,  and  thc-n  took  a 
i;ia(hiate  course  for  one  year.  vShe  has  made  a 
specialty  of  the  diseases  of  women  and  children, 
and  has  also  ^iven  mnch  allention  to  disea.ses 
of  the  eye.  vShe  will  he  one  of  the  inl(Tnrs 
in  the  hospital  for  women  at  ImmkIiow.  Her 
knowledge  of  inediciiie   will  give   her  access  to 


I 


' 


1 1  iff > 


\ 


P 


I 


M, 


I 


y 


1/ 


U 


Hi 


k  - 


i 


122 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


the   homes  of  wealthy  heathen    families,  thus 
proving  a  golden  key  to  open  all  doors. 

The  Chinese  Steerage. — We  had  about 
four  hundred  Chinese  in  the  steerage,  some 
having  come  from  San  Francisco  and  the  others 
from  Honolulu.  Very  few  emigrate  to  America 
with  the  purpose  of  making  a  home  there ; 
sooner  or  later  the  great  majority  expect  to  re- 
turn to  the  Celestial  Empire.  There  was  also 
a  number  oi  Japanese  going  to  their  home,  some 
of  these  being  cabin  passengers.  The  Chinese 
pay  fifty-two  dollars  for  their  passage  from  San 
Francisco,  and  forty  dollars  from  Honolulu. 
The  ship  gives  them  their  food  with  their  pas- 
sage for  these  sums,  and  as  the  food  is  only 
boiled  rice  seasoned  with  dried  fish  or  curry,  and 
can  be  furnished  at  a  cost  of  eight  or  ten  cents  a 
day,  the  ship  makes  a  liberal  profit  out  of  these 
steerage  passengers. 

There  was  no  second  cabin  on  this  ship,  but 
there  was  a  compartment  known  as  the  European 
steerage, — all  who  are  not  Mongolians  by  this 
classificaiion  being  called  Europeans.  An  officer 
informed  me  that  there  was  the  sum  of  a  million 
dollars  in  specie  on  board.  This  money  was 
going  to  China  and  Japan  to  pay  for  goods  sold 
in  San  Francisco  and  Honolulu  by  merchants  of 
these  nationalities.  He  also  told  me  that  these 
four  hundred  steerage  passengers  were  probably 
carrying  back  not  less  than  half  a  million  dollars 
in  specie  as  the  result  of  their  savings.  They 
landed  in  America  without  a  dollar ;   they  re- 


I 


' .  li  '  I 


AT   vSKA   AGAIN 


123 


turned  to  China  with  money  enouj^li,  in  many 
cases,  to  enable  them  to  live  without  labor  for 
the  rest  of  their  lives.  They  thus  carry  ^reat 
sums  of  money  from  the  United  States,  and  the 
complaint  of  many  Americans  seems  to  be  justi- 
fied ;  but,  as  Mr.  Ballon  remarks,  in  his  "  Due 
West,"  the  Chinese  leave  behind  them  the  result 
of  their  labor,  and  this  is  pr^ictically  so  much 
money.  Their  labor  has  built  many  of  our  rail- 
ways, dug  our  canals,  and  forwarded  many  pub- 
lic works.  We  ought  to  look  at  that  side,  even 
while  we  regret  seeing  so  much  money  leave  our 
shores,  which  if  in  the  hands  of  most  other 
workingmen  would  be  spent  in  America. 

The  Chinese  were  thickly  packed  in  the  steer- 
age. Fortunately  for  them  the  weather  was  fine 
and  the  sea  smooth.  They  squatted  about  the 
hatchways  or  lay  on  the  lower  decks ;  but  in 
spite  of  the  enforced  ventilation  in  their  close 
quarters,  noxious  odors  were  occasionally  whiffed 
from  them  to  the  upper  deck  and  to  the  first- 
class  cabin.  Some  venturesome  passengers  went 
once  with  the  doctor  on  his  rounds,  and  once 
was  quite  enough.  Here  were  Chinese  old  and 
sick  going  home  to  die ;  some  of  them  were 
almost  nude  as  they  lay  on  the  floor  or  in  their 
bunks.  Some  were  smoking  their  opium  pipes. 
Several  died  during  the  voyage,  and  their  bodies 
were  hastily  embalmed  by  tlie  ship's  surgeon. 
We  were  told  that  on  a  voyage  on  another  ship 
of  this  line  there  were  forty-nine  deaths  among 
the  Chinese. 

It  is  an  article  of  their  creed  that  their  souls 


I; 


li 


/ 


iti 


'I'l 


^ 


124 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


* 


cannot  rest  in  peace  unless  their  bodies  arc 
buried  in  the  land  of  their  birth.  Kvcn  thouj^li 
they  are  buried  outside  of  China,  sooner  or  later, 
if  possible,  their  bones  at  least  are  dug-  up  and 
sent  home  by  their  friends.  These  ships  carry 
bodies  and  bones  as  merchandise,  and  do  no 
small  amount  of  business  in  this  way,  realizing 
a  good  profit  out  of  this  Chiuej<e  superstition. 
On  a  recent  trip,  when  a  poor  man  died  his 
countrymen  raised  among  themselves  two  hun- 
dred dollars  to  pay  for  embalming  and  burying 
his  body.  Sometimes  sanitary  considerations 
compel  the  officers  to  bury  a  body  in  the  sea ; 
but  only  under  urgent  necessity  is  this  done,  as 
it  almost  creates  a  rebellion  among  Chinese  pas- 
sengers. It  is  said  that  during  a  storm  they  cast 
into  the  sea  pieces  of  joss-paper  bearing  mystical 
Chinese  characters,  in  order  to  appease  the  anger 
of  the  gods  who,  as  they  suppose,  preside  over 
the  winds  and  the  waves. 

On  this  trip  they  played  games  of  chance  con- 
stantly, and  finally  some  of  their  leaders  secured 
possession  of  the  firemen's  room  and  opened 
their  regular  "fan-tan "  game.  This  they  played 
night  and  day.  At  times  their  excitement  was 
great  and  piles  of  silver  and  gold  were  lost  and 
won,  the  manager  of  the  game  coming  in,  as  a 
rule,  for  the  lion's  share.  There  is  apparently 
no  skill  whatever  in  this  game ;  it  is  purely  a 
matter  of  chance.  It  made  one's  heart  ache  to 
see  these  hard-working  fellows  beggar  them- 
selves in  this  way.  It  is  said  that  they  will 
play  away  nearly  all  their  clothes  ;  indeed,  some 


1 


AT   SKA    AGAIN 


125 


of  them  looked  as  if  already  tlicy  had  reached 
that  point.  Some  passeiij^ers  wondered  that  tlie 
ship  permitted  open  j^^anililinj;,  but  we  know  how 
common  it  is  on  the  Atlantic  liners.  vSome  won- 
dered that  the  Chinese  should  l)e  such  fools,  but 
we  know  such  who  are  not  Chinese. 

Mid-ocean  Pastimks. — This  was  a  trip  re- 
markable for  bri<rht  weather  and  a  smooth  sea. 
The  passengers  from  San  Francisco  said  that  it 
was  just  so  between  that  city  and  Honolulu. 
They  sailed  among  hundreds  of  whales  soon 
after  leaving  the  Golden  Oate.  These  dashed 
along  the  sides  of  the  ship,  spouted  tlie  water  in 
streams,  and  joyously  disported  themselves  in 
many  ways.  Day  after  day  we  plowed  through 
the  beautifully  blue  waters  of  this  peaceful  Pa- 
cific. Sometimes  this  ocean  is  anytliing  but  pa- 
cific, but  on  this  occasion  it  was  as  calm,  with 
rare  and  brief  exceptions,  as  an  inland  lake. 
For  almost  the  first  time  I  experienced  the 
charm  of  life  at  sea,  life  on  the  ocean-wave,  life 
when  you  are  not  "rocked  in  the  cradle  of  the 
deep."  Such  rocking  may  do  very  well  in  songs, 
but  in  experience  it  is  horrible.  Part  of  the  way 
the  moon  shone  brightly  ;  all  the  way  the  stars 
shone  with  a  nearness  and  brightness  which  we 
never  see  at  home.  Night  after  night  our  ports 
were  wide  open,  the  air  was  pure,  our  appetites 
good,  our  tempers  unruffled,  and  we  were  enjoy- 
ing rest  in  great  and  solid  slices.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  conceive  how  more  rest  could  be 
had  than  on  board  the  "  Coptic  "  on  this  trip. 


!  ^k, 


•  1 


i 


,f  ■ 


U>() 


AKOI'MI)    Till-:    U'OUI.n 


[•♦4 

^ 


h- 


K 


h! 


vSojiK"  of  tlu'  cahiii  |)ass(.>n«^i'ts  played  cards, 
and  soiiK'  the  vatiitiis  ^aiius  i-nimuoii  to  the 
(kvks  t)l'  ships;  l)nt  the  majoriU'  spnil  most  of 
thi'ii  timr  in  ivadiiij^.  lUfoiv  kaviiij;  Iloiiolidii 
1  j^ot  tlic  leading  iiiaoa/ims  for  ,Jiil\,  they  liav- 
iuj;  come  in  »>n  the  "Co|)tic\"  In  adilition  to  tlic 
liteiatnte  wliieh  passengers  carried,  lliere  was  a 
well-selected  library  on  board,  and  at  lo  A.  M. 
anil  I  V.  M.  the  lil)rarian  was  present  to  j^ive  ont 
books.  In  it  wire  some  of  the  latest  and  most 
popular  books,  and  what  especially  intirested 
me,  a  j^ooil  collection  of  the  most  recent  and  au- 
thoritative books  on  China  and  Jai)an.  A  man 
sees  in  any  country  only  what  he  brinj^s  with 
him  eyes  to  see,  and  he  onj^ht  at  least  to  know 
the  salient  points  in  the  history  and  K^'<'J4'''M*''y 
of  the  countries  he  proposes  to  visit.  The  books 
ii;  this  library  well  supplemented  those  alreadv 
read;  it  thus  came  to  pass  that  each  day  testihed 
lo  the  readiui^  of  about  one  volume  on  the  hi.s- 
tory  and  customs  of  India,  China,  and  japan. 
The  passen*;ers  looked  iutercstiuii^  in  their  white 
duck  or  flannel  suits,  their  canvas  shoes  and  li<;ht 
caps  or  hats,  and  all  the  ofhcers  of  the  ship  were 
similarly  dressed.  We  often  with  much  amuse- 
ment contrasted  our  present  aj^pcarancc  Avitli 
that  of  passengers  on  Atlantic  trips  when  ru^trs, 
ulsters,  and  ti^ht  caps  and  "loves  are  a  necessity. 
Kveu  these  wraps  cannot  entirely  keep  out  the 
pierciui;-  winds  of  the  x\tlantic.  When  our  ship 
j;ot  as  far  west  as  i6o°  east  from  (ireeuwich  the 
warm  and  moist  air  of  the  Japan  stream  \vas 
almost  too  warm  and  moist  for  comfort,  but  for 


AT   si: A    AC. AIM 


127 


tlic  nn>st  part   llictc  was  iicilluT  too  mm  h  lual 
nor  cold  for  an  idral  tiij). 

CuossiNd  'niiv  1,1  N I',. — Tliis  was  to  n>osl  of 
lis  a  iiiii(|iu'  ix|Kritiu-c-.  Iii<Iic<l,  it  is  oiu-  of  tlic 
notahk-  iticidciits  of  a  lirst  voya^^v  across  llic*  l*a- 
cilic.  This  "liiK'"  is  tlu-  iSolli  iniridiaii  ;  il 
marks  tlu-  division  IkIvvcimi  tlic  Ivastiin  and  tlic 
Wc'sti'in  lifmisplKTcs,  and  is  tin-  txait  antipodt* 
of  (irc'i-nwicli.  It  is  almost  midway  in  onr 
course.  It  is  tlu-  custom  to  droj)  a  day  on  cross- 
iuj^tliis  line.  "Tlie  day  recorded  in  the  almanac 
as  Monday  begins  when  the  sun  crosses  this  me- 
ridian; il  is  noon  of  that  day  when  the  meridian 
at  (ireenwicli  is  crossed,  and  the  day  closes  when 
the  iSoth  meridian  is  aj^r.iin  reached."  At  this 
point  the  almanac  is  confused  hy  losiujr  or  j^r.-iin- 
injr  a  day  accordin^^  to  the  direction  of  the  voy- 
aj^e.  (ioinjr  westward  we  lose  a  day;  retinninja;- 
hy  the  same  route  we  recover  the  lost  day,  hut 
^oiu^  hack  to  America  hy  another  route,  so  far 
as  the  calendar  is  concerned,  we  shall  never  re- 
cover the  lost  day.  It  is  not  common  to  droj) 
Sunday  or  to  dotd)le  it ;  and  if  tlie  meridian  is 
crossed  on  vSuuday  usually  no  chanj^a'  is  made. 
lint  on  this  ship  we  had  no  vSunday ;  we  went  at 
once  from  Saturday  to  Monday.  It  was  a  stran^'^c 
experience. 

Sometimes  passengers  couvivially  celebrate 
the  crossiu}!^  of  the  line;  they  watch  the  exact 
moment  of  transit,  and  then  are  su])poscd  to  feel 
the  ship's  keel  j^ratc  on  the  line,  and  they  can 
see  the  line  through  a  glass  especially  prepared 


il 


k  ■ 


r 


I  ^i 


i 


'WM*  ! 


.1 


1 


.(' 


I 


T28 


AKOUNI)   Till-:   WOKIJ) 


to  deceive  lliem  by  liaviii^  a  cobweb  thread 
across  a  lens.  Hut  neither  onr  ofiicers  nor  pas- 
senj^ers  were  likely  to  see  doubly  or  darkly,  for 
we  were  a  sober  coni])any.  Hut,  of  course,  it 
was  easy  to  iniaj^ine  after  we  had  crossed  the 
line  that  the  np-^rade  of  our  journey  was  over 
and  that  henceforth  we  were  running  down-hill 
from  the  great  meridian.  At  this  season  the 
ships  of  this  line  take  the  northerly  route.  No 
icebergs  ever  float  in  the  waters  of  the  north 
Pacific  ;  we  expected  to  sight  jK-rhaps  another 
steamer  of  the  same  line,  but  only  a  whale,  a  lot 
of  porpoises,  phosphorescent  waves,  sunny  days 
and  beautiful  nights,  marked  the  trip,  which 
was  almost  as  smooth  as  a  night's  sail  on  the 
Hudson. 


Arrivinc    at   Yokohama. — The  schedule 
time   from    Honolulu    to  Yokohama   is  He 

days,  but  we  made  the  trip  in  nine  da>„  and 
seven  hours.  This  was,  therefore,  a  record- 
breaking  journey.  The  captain  greatly  prided 
himself  on  the  surprise  which  he  would  give  to 
the  officers  of  his  company.  As  we  neared  the 
"Land  of  the  Rising  vSun"  night  was  coming  on 
and  the  view  of  Yokohama  from  the  bay  we 
could  not  fully  get ;  neither  could  we  get  a 
glimpse  of  Fujiyama;  but  we  saw  the  rugged 
coast,  along  which  for  some  time  we  sailed. 
Many  strange  thoughts  filled  our  minds  as  we 
entered  Yedo  Bay.  Yokohama  was  only  a  fish- 
ing village  when,  in  1854,  Commodore  Perry  en- 
tered  this   bay  ;    now  it  is  a  great  and  rapidly 


AT  SEA   AGAIN 


129 


' 


j^rowiii^  city.  Then  Japan  was  barely  induced 
to  make  treaties  witli  outside  peoples  ;  now  she 
is  their  earnest  i)Upil.  Christianity  is  j^cttin^  a 
firm  foothold,  and  Japan  is  taking  her  place 
among  the  great  and  progressive  nations  of  the 
world.  In  the  last  ten  years  Japan  has  made 
more  history  for  herself  than  during  the  preced- 
ing two  and  a  half  centuries.  Witliin  a  genera- 
tion she  has  accomplished  wonderful  transforma- 
tions. This  is  the  period  of  her  "  renaissance," 
in  which  she  has  exchanged  a  feudal  system  for 
a  constitutional  monarchy,  has  extinguished  the 
privileges  of  a  military  class,  and  the  people  have 
elected  a  lower  house  of  parliament.  She  has 
overthrowu  the  usurpations  of  the  emperor's 
functions  by  the  sh(\quns^  and  in  1868  she  re- 
stored the  emperor  to  actual  power.  She  is 
now  flushed  with  her  recent  victory  and  is  in 
danger  of  being  carried  away  by  her  military 
ambitions. 

But  apart  from  these  graver  thoughts  there 
are  others  of  a  lighter  kind.  We  are  coming  to 
fan  land,  to  islands  of  porcelain,  to  the  country 
of  chrysanthemums.  We  look  out  on  the  lights 
of  Yokohama.  The  rain  is  falling  heavily.  The 
ship  is  stopping.  See  the  steam  launches  which 
bear  down  upon  us  to  carry  passengers  to  the 
hotels  and  to  bear  off  the  mails.  See  the  sam- 
pans which  are  ready  to  carry  off  the  steerage 
passengers,  a  queer  craft  with  the  bare-legged 
boatmen  in  their  strange  picturesqueness.  It  is 
all  just  like  the  picture  books.  Out  we  go  over 
boats  and  amid  shouting  boatmen.    The  customs 

I 


it 


K 


kl 


1 


,vll 


V    t: 


^i 


130 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


examirations  are  merely  no>ninal ;  only  the  con- 
traband opinm  is  likely  to  cause  trouble.  See 
the  rows  of  jinrikisha  men  with  their  queer  lan- 
terns waitir  g  for  calls.  Here  we  are  at  the  hotel 
on  the  Bund  looking  out  on  the  bay  with  its  re- 
flection of  the  lights  of  ships,  streets,  and  hotels, 
and  we  really  are  in  Japan. 


I 


XI 


JAPANEwSF  HISTORY 

\17HEN  Marco  Polo  in  1295  returned  from 
V  V  his  travels  in  China,  he  i^ave  the  world  its 
hrst  knowledge  of  the  Japanese  empire.  In 
Lhina  lie  had  been  told  of  an  island  called  "Ci- 
pango  "  in  the  high  seas  fifteen  hundred  miles 
trom  the  continent.  From  this  name  the  Tapa- 
nese  derived  the  name  Nippon  ;  to  this  they  pre- 
fixed the  word  "  Dai,"  meaning  great,  and  so  they 
called  their  islands  Dai  Nippon,  and  this  name 
they  still  use.  Europeans  transformed  the  name 
into  Japon  or  Japan,  ''Laud  of  the  rising  sun." 

Early  Japan.— Marco  Polo's  discovery  pro- 
duced a  profound  impression,  and  to  visi\  this 
reputedly  rich  island  was  one  of  the  objects  of 
ambition  on  the  part  of  different  nations  Japan 
consists  of  four  large  islands  and  lot  fewer  than 
three  thousand  small  ones.  On  these  islands 
there  are  many  volcanic  peaks  which  rise  to  a 
great  elevation  :  the  highest  of  tuese  is  Fujisan 
better  known  to  us  as  Fujiyama,  "matchless 
mountain."  It  is  nearly  conical  in  shape,  al- 
though the  volcanic  eruption  in  1707  somewhat 
deformed  one  of  its  sides.  It  frequently  appears 
in  paintings  of  many  landscapes  though  they  are 

'31 


\: 


:i!^ 


^(>, 


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■  li 


\  i  '11 


:.  11 


n  w 


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132 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


far  distn^.t  from  it.  It  is  sixty  miles  from  Tokyo 
in  a  direct  line.  For  ten  months  of  the  year  its 
top  is  covered  with  snow.  Its  height  is  put 
down  at  twelve  thousand  three  hundred  and 
sixty-five  feet,  although  perhaps  a  few  feet  more 
or  less  may  be  reckoned  in  order  to  give  it  as 
many  thousands  as  there  are  months  in  the  year, 
and  so  many  hundreds  as  there  are  days  in  the 
year.  This  mountain  is  in  some  sense  an  object 
of  religious  reverence,  and  large  numbers  of  pil- 
grims annually  visit  it.  The  Japanese  love  the 
grand  and  beautiful,  and  a  skillful  appeal  is 
made  to  this  feeling  in  the  location  of  IJuddhist 
and  Shinto  temples  and  shrines.  Asamayama  is 
over  eight  thousand  feet  high,  and  it  has  the  ad- 
ditional interest  of  being  an  active  volcano.  Its 
crater  is  more  than  a  mile  in  circumference,  and 
the  rumbling  noise  which  it  gives  forth  can 
often  be  heard  at  a  distance  of  twenty  miles 
from  its  base. 

All  these  islands  are,  and  always  have  been, 
remarkable  for  frequent  earthquakes  ;  as  many 
as  five  hundred  shocks  have  occurred  in  Japan 
in  a  single  year,  but  many  of  them  were  quite 
slight.  In  1891  there  was  a  severe  shock  in  the 
main  island,  and  in  1854  a  series  of  shocks  fol- 
lowed by  tidal  waves  took  place  on  tlie  east  coast 
of  this  island.  In  Japan,  as  in  the  Hawaiian.  Is- 
lands and  elsewhere,  volcanoes  are  closely  a::soci- 
ated  with  earthquakes.  It  is  claimed  by  those 
competent  to  judge,  that  the  long  line  of  islands 
stretching  from  Kamtschatka  to  Borneo  is  the 
product  of  volcanic  action.     Without  doubt  glo- 


JAPAN  1<:SK    HISTORY 


^33 


rious  Fujiyama  was  thrown  up  to  its  sublime 
height  as  a  volcano.  Lakes  are  numerous  in  the 
mountainous  districts ;  there  is  a  legend  that 
Biwa,  the  largest  lake  in  the  main  island,  came 
into  existence  in  a  single  night  when  Fujiyama, 
three  hundred  miles  distant,  was  thrown  up  to 
its  present  height.  There  are  no  rivers  of  great 
size  in  Japan,  as  the  islands  are  narrow. 

Among  the  people  of  the  island,  the  Ainos  are 
a  distinct  race  ;  a  small  number  of  them  is  still 
found  in  the  island  of  Yczo,  and  also  in  the  is- 
land of  Saghalien  ;  most  of  them,  however,  re- 
moved in  1875  from  this  latter  island  when  part 
of  it  was  then  given  to  Russia  in  exchange  for 
the  Kurile  Islands.  Probably  the  Ainos  are  the 
original  race.  For  long  periods  the  military 
forces  of  the  empire  were  employed  to  suppress 
this  barbarous  race ;  but  years  of  repression  have 
made  their  descendants  an  inoffensive  people. 
In  1880  their  number  in  the  island  of  Yezo  was 
something  over  sixteen  thousand,  and  it  is  grad- 
ually decreasing.  Physically  they  are  a  sturdy 
people,  being  characterized  by  bushy  heads  of 
hair,  great  beards,  and  an  abundant  growth  of 
hair  on  the  body  generally.  They  have  few  arts, 
no  written  language,  no  pictorial  writing,  and 
only  the  rudest  implements  and  the  vaguest  re- 
ligious ideas.  They  have  very  strange  super- 
stitions regarding  the  bear ;  often  a  young  cub 
is  secured,  brouglit  to  the  home,  and  nourished 
by  the  woman  as  if  it  were  a  child.  It  is  later 
confined  in  a  cage  and  is  finally  killed  when  the 
great  bear  festival  is  held.     The  people   feast 


■1 

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.  1 

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134 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


H'i  S 


I'Li    .", 


s 

■    ' 

ii 


with  dclii^lit  on  its  meat.  The  men  are  con- 
firmed sa/ce  drinkers,  a  habit  which  they  have 
learned  from  the  Japanese.  Some  mission  work 
is  goinof  on  among  them,  bnt  as  the  difficulties 
of  the  work  are  great  and  their  numbers  are  con- 
stantly decreasing,  it  has  seemed  wiser  to  keep 
workers  in  more  needful  and  hopeful  fields. 

The  Shinto  religion  is  rightly  regarded  as  the 
primitive  belief  of  the  Japanese  people ;  it  is 
known  to  have  prevailed  long  before  priests 
from  Korea  propagated  Buddhism.  Shintoism 
is  a  mixture  of  ancestor  and  nature  worship.  It 
is  now  more  political  than  religious.  Moto-ori, 
a  writer  of  the  eighteenth  century,  and  the  great- 
est advocate  of  Shintoism,  is  quoted  by  Doctor 
Murray,  in  his  "Japan,"  as  admitting  that  Shin- 
toism has  no  moral  code.  He  affirms  that 
"morals"  were  invented  by  the  Chinese,  as  they 
were  an  immoral  people,  but  that  the  Japanese 
had  only  to  consult  their  own  hearts. 

As  early  as  A.  d.  284  Chinese  literature  was 
introduced  into  Japan.  For  three  thousand  years 
before  the  Christian  era  China  was  one  of  the 
cultured  nations  of  the  earth,  and  long  before 
the  Japanese  had  emerged  into  a  recognized  ex- 
istence the  Chinese  were  a  civilized  people.  No 
doubt  the  Jaj)anese  were  originally  closely  related 
to  some  sections  of  the  Chinese.  They  early 
accepted  tlie  Chinese  written  language,  and 
Chinese  philosophy  and  religion.  In  tliis  way 
Buddhism,  with  its  priesthood,  ritual,  and  dogma, 
secured  a  foothold  ;  indeed,  tliey  allowed  this 
imported  faith  to  reduce  the  supporters  of  their 


; 


i 


^i' 


u 


; 


JAPANKSK    HISTORY 


135 


'■■) 

lis 


primitive  religion  to  a  small  minority.  Every- 
thing Chinese  was  esteemed  and  its  learning  was 
eagerly  songht,  and  respect  for  the  Chinese  led 
to  the  early  introduction  of  the  Chinese  system 
of  official  rank. 

Introduction  of  Catholicism. — In  1542 
the  Portuguese  made  their  f^st  appearance  in 
Japan;  and  in  1547  Pinto  made  a  second  visit 
in  the  interests  of  trade.  On  the  occasion  of 
this  visit  he  took  away  two  fugitives  who  ap- 
pealed to  liiin  from  the  shore.  They  were  taken 
in  a  Portuguese  ship  to  Malacca,  where  Pinto 
met  Father  Francis  Xavier,  who  had  just  arrived 
from  his  mission  to  the  East.  At  once  he  be- 
came interested  in  these  two  Japanese.  They 
were  sent  to  Goa,  the  chief  seac  of  Jesuit  learn- 
ing in  the  East  Indies,  and  there  they  were  con- 
verted and  baptized.  They  learned  the  Portu- 
guese language  and  the  elements  of  Christianity. 
With  them  as  helpers,  Xavier  arrived  in  Japan 
August  15,  1549,  at  Kagoshima,  the  capital  of 
the  province  of  Satsuma. 

Wonderful  stories  are  told  of  Xavier's  powers 
as  a  miracle-worker,  although  he  himself  does  not 
claim  such  power.  But  his  biographers  and  the 
papal  bull  announcing  his  canonization  distinctly 
claim  for  him  the  power  of  working  miracles. 
He  endured  great  sufferings  and  performed  heroic 
services,  sufferings  and  services  worthy  of  a  purer 
faith.  He  finally  sailed  for  China,  as  his  work  was 
so  discouraging  in  Japan,  and  at  tlie  little  island  of 
Sancian,  while  on  his  way,  he  died,  December  22, 


'U 


^'l 


i 


1 

'..1 


'  i' 


136 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


u 


1552,  aged  forty-six ;  but  he  sowed  seed  in  Japan 
whose  fruits  are  reaped  even  to  this  day.  In 
1573  Nagasaki  was  nominally  a  Christ'.an  City; 
in  1587  an  edict  was  issued  expelling  ail  foreign 
religious  teachers  from  Japan  within  twenty  days, 
on  pain  of  death.  Romanists  were  having  in 
Japan  an  application  of  their  own  doctrine  of 
persecution  which  at  that  very  time  Philip  II. 
was  so  satanically  inflicting  on  the  Netherlands, 
and  they  brought  this  prohibition  on  themselves 
by  their  internal  jealousies  and  their  interference 
with  political  affairs.  Wherever  in  Japan  the 
Jesuits  had  obtained  the  ascendency  they  endeav- 
ored by  perr.ecution  to  compel  all  the  people  to 
adopt  their  faith. 

Pope  Gregory  XIII.,  who  had  received  a  dele- 
gation of  Japanese  representatives,  issued  a  brief 
in  1585  that  no  religious  teachers  except  Jesuits 
should  be  allowed  in  Japan ;  this  brief  was  in- 
tended to  prevent  the  bitter  rivalries  between 
different  wings  within  the  Roman  Church — bit- 
ter then  and  equally  bitter  to-day.  This  action 
of  the  pope  was  intensely  distasteful  to  the  Do- 
minicans and  Franciscans.  Spanish  merchants 
were  also  envious  of  the  Portuguese  merchants 
who  had  secured  so  large  a  share  of  the  Japanese 
trade.  The  Jesuits  and  Franciscans  became  still 
more  embittered  against  one  another ;  if  half 
which  each  said  of  the  other  was  true,  neither  was 
worthy  of  the  confidence  of  the  Japanese  people. 

The  result  was  that  when  Hideyoshi  came  into 
power,  while  the  Portuguese  were  permitted  to 
traffic  in  the  ports  they  were  forbidden,  under  pain 


.  I 


JAPANESE   HISTORY 


^Z7 


lalf 


of  havin.Q:  their  ships  confiscated,  to  brin<r  in  any 
foreign  rcHj^ion.  As  a  result  a  number  of  both 
Franciscans  and  Jesuits  in  Osaka  and  Kyoto  were 
taken  to  Nagasaki  and  there  burned.  Churches, 
colleges,  and  hospitals  had  been  founded  and  were 
flourishing.  That  the  Roman  Church  should 
suffer  persecution  in  Japan  was  quite  natural,  for 
the  Roman  Church  was  then  innicting  the  most 
atrocious  cruelties  upon  Protestants  in  Spain 
and  in  the  Netherlands.  The  princes  of  Omura 
and  Arima  came  under  the  influence  of  Roman- 
ism, and  they  at  once  followed  the  advice  of  the 
Jesuit  fathers  in  inflicting  punishment  on  their 
heathen  neighbors  to  compel  them  to  accept  Ro- 
manism. The  Jesuits  taught  the  native  Chris- 
tian rulers  to  persecute.  Now  when  the  nati  "e 
rulers  were  not  Christian  they  gave  the  Jesuit 
fathers  the  treatment  which  those  fathers  recom- 
mended to  be  given  to  the  heathen  to  compel 
them  to  become  Romanists.  These  fathers  were 
simply  asked  to  take  their  own  medicine. 

Overthrow  of  the  Jesuits. — When  leyasu 
became  ruler  he  determined  to  enforce  the  edict 
against  the  Romanists,  and  they  needlessly  pro- 
voked and  even  defied  the  civil  authorities.  In 
the  face  of  his  proclamation  they  celebrated  in  a 
most  gorgeous  manner  the  beatification  of  Igna- 
tius Loyola,  the  founder  and  first  general  of  the 
Society  of  Jesuits.  T^e  bishop  appeared  in  pon- 
tifical robes,  and  the  Franciscans,  Dominicans, 
and  Augustinians  made  a  solemn  procession 
through  the  city.    Thus  they  defiantly  disobeyed 


H!^ 


;'M 


m 


) 

II, 


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!, 


Mi' 


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ii ' 


I: 


it 


I3S 


AUOUND   Tin-:    WORLD 


the  orders  which  had  l)een  issued  aj^ainst  such 
])iiblic  displays.  Tlie  result  was  that  iiiaii\'  Ro- 
manists were  banished  and  their  estates  confis- 
cated. 

Next  came  the  Kno^lish  and  Dutch  seeking 
for  trade,  of  which  the  Portuj^nese,  thronj^h  the 
Jesuits,  had  a  monopoly.  These  newcomers  had 
only  to  confirm  what  the  Spanish  and  Tortuj^nese 
had  said  of  each  other  to  excite  in  the  minds  of 
the  Japanese  the  j^ravest  fears  as  to  the  desij^ns 
of  the  Jesuit  priests  of  Spain  and  Portu<;al.  The 
Jesuit  historians  tell  with  delight  how  a  Spanish 
friar,  in  order  to  sustain  the  authority  of  the 
Roman  Church,  which  a  Hollander  denied,  un- 
dertook to  walk  on  the  sea;  he  prepared  himself 
by  prayer  and  fasting  and  in  the  presence  of  a 
great  crowd  of  the  Japanese,  stepped,  crucifix  in 
hand,  into  the  water,  and  then  went  floundering 
overhead  and  was  saved  from  drowning  by  some 
boats  which  went  to  his  assistance. 

I  sympathize  with  the  Romanists  who  suffered 
for  their  faith,  but  they  brought  their  persecu- 
tion on  themselves.  In  161 6  persecution  against 
them  was  terribly  bitter.  They  were  hurled  from 
the  tops  of  precipices,  and  some  were  burned 
alive.  Every  form  of  cruelty  was  practised.  Be- 
tween 161 6  and  1622  hundreds  and  thousands 
were  put  to  death,  and  their  heroism  aroused  the 
greatest  enthusiasm  among  their  co-religionists. 
A  form  of  inquisition  was  adopted  somewhat 
similar  to  that  introduced  by  Romanists  in 
Spain,  and  burning  and  beheading  went  on  con- 
tinually.    Some  priests  renounced  their  faith. 


If 


-4 


JAPANl-Slv    HISTORY 


139 


/i 


but  many  died  the  death  of  martyrs.     Many  en- 
dured   tortures  worse    than    death,  and   witli    a 
heroism  worthy  of  all  praise.     So  terrible  were 
the  persecutions  that  while  in  Naj^rasaki  in  1626 
there  were  forty  thousand  nominal  Christians  in 
1629  there  was  not  one  left  who  would  acknowl- 
ed.<re   that   he  was   a   Christian.     Anion^r   other 
tests  was  that  known  as  tiamplin-  <,„  n,^.  ^,,.^^^ 
At  first  ])ieces  of  pai)er  were  used,  then  slabs  of 
wood,  and  finally,  in  1660,  bron/e  plates.     These 
were  five  inches  lon^r,  Umv  inches  wide,  and  one 
inch  thick,  and  they  had  on  them  an  ima-e  of 
ChrLst  on  the  cross.     The  heads  of  each  house, 
tile  children,  and  the  servants,  were  called  on  to 
tread  on  this  plate. 

Then  came  a  revolt  known  as  the  vShimabara 
rebellion,  in  which  the  Dutch  took  part  aj-ainst 
the  Romanists.  The  action  of  the  Dutch  led  to 
much  ill-feelincr,  severe  charcres,  and  numerous 
explanations.  It  seemed  as  if  the  Roman  Church 
had  received  its  deathblow  in  the  empire.  A 
S:eneral  massacre  followed  the  collapse  of  the  re- 
bellion. There  were  about  forty  thousand  rebels 
and  they  all  practically  were  put  to  death,  some 
ot  them  having  been  crucified.  vSome  say  that 
many  were  thrown  from  the  rocks  of  Pappenbercr 
Island  into  the  sea,  but  others  affirm  that  notir. 
ing  of  the  kind  took  place. 

A  Japanese  writer  says  that  after  nearly  one 
hundred  years  of  effort  the  only  apparent  results 
of  the  introduction  of  the  Roman  Church,  "were 
the  adoption  of  gunpowder  and  firearms  as 
weapons,    the   use   of   tobacco,   the   m.  kincr   of 


W 


I 


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\ 


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140 


AROUND   TIIK    WORLD 


T    ), 


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1/ 


sp()ii(i;e  cake,  the  naturalization  into  the  lan<;^naji^e 
of  a  few  forei<;n  words,  and  tlie  introduction  of 
new  and  stranj^e  forms  of  disease."  lint  this 
writer  was  mistaken.  With  all  the  viji^ilance 
and  cruelty  of  the  government,  the  Christian 
faith  still  survived.  In  the  villa<»^es  around  Na- 
gasaki there  were  discovered  in  1865  communi- 
ties which  had  worship  in  secret  and  had  kept 
alive  for  more  than  two  centuries  the  religion  of 
their  ancestors.  Without  teachers  and  almost 
without  printed  instruction,  they  had  maintained 
by  tradition  a  knowledge  of  tlie  faith  of  their 
persecuted  fathers. 

The  Roman  Church  has  been  active  in  Japan 
during  recent  years.  The  missionaries  are  mostly 
French.  The  converts  are  largely  from  the  low- 
est classes,  while  professors,  journalists,  lawyers, 
editors,  and  other  educated  Japanese,  are  found 
in  the  Protestant  churches.  There  is  one  relig- 
ious newspaper  published  in  the  interests  of  the 
Roman  Church,  and  the  zeal  of  the  missionaries 
is  worthy  of  all  praise.  The  numbers  are,  per- 
haps, about  the  same  as  those  of  the  Protestant 
churches,  but  the  number  of  native  Jesuits  is 
very  small.  The  Roman  Church  gives  the  na- 
tive Japanese  in  its  communion  but  little  free- 
dom of  thought  or  action.  When  one  sees  the 
similarity  between  the  heathen  worship  in  Bud- 
dhist temples  and  many  of  the  rites  of  the  Ro- 
man Church  he  might  suppose  that  Romanism 
could  easily  capture  Japan,  but  such  is  not  the 
case. 

We  would  not  justify  the  cruelties  inflicted  on 


h 


JAPAN ICSI*;    HISTORY 


141 


the  Jesuits  when  they  were  deported  in  Octoher, 
1 6 14,  but  it  is  easy  to  account  for  a  ))art  at  least 
of  the  bitterness  of  tlie  Jajxinese  rulers.  I  have, 
since  I  came  to  Japan,  ^one  carefully  over  the 
history  of  this  period  of  persecution  by  the 
heathen,  and  I  am  j)repared  to  prove  that  the 
Romanists  in  inventiveness  of  torture,  in  cold- 
blooded cruelty,  and  in  purely  satauic  ferocity 
have  repeatedly  far  surpassed  their  Japanese  per- 
secutors. 

We  owe  a  debt  of  p^ratitude  to  the  Diitch  for 
what  they  accomplished  in  opening  Japan  to  the 
world.  The  Dutch  planted  many  seeds  of  foreijj^n 
ideas  in  Japanese  soil.  The  conduct  of  the  Jes- 
uits led  the  Japanese  greatly  to  distrust  all  for- 
eigners, and  doubtless  this  distrust  helped  to 
keep  Japan  closed  for  years,  and  rivalry  between 
the  Dutch  and  Portuguese  led  to  the  banishment 
of  the  latter.  The  Russians  made  many  attempts 
to  open  intercourse  with  Japan.  So  did  the 
United  States  and  Great  Britain.  But  all  were 
rebuffed. 

Opening  of  the  Country. — The  discovery 
of  gold  in  California  in  1848  was  an  active  cause 
of  the  opening  of  negotiations  with  Japan.  It 
was  very  desirable  that  steamers  be  run  from 
San  Francisco  to  Hongkong,  a  distance  of  about 
six  thousand  miles,  but  it  was  important  that  a 
coaling  station  be  found  on  the  Japanese  islands. 
Commodore  Perr\',  after  many  conferences  on  the 
part  of  our  government,  and  many  international 
discussions  and  painful  delays,  entered  Yedo  Bay 


!» 


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142 


AROUND    TIIK    WORM) 


July  <S,  1853,  witli  the  "  IMyiiiouth "  and  the 
"  vSaralt><^a."  Tlic  Dutch  warned  the  Japanese 
{government  of  the  coniinj^  of  this  expedition. 
As  the  two  steam  fri«^ates  anil  two  sloops-of- 
war  plowed  throng^h  the  peaceful  waters  every 
height  along  the  shore  was  alive  with  troops 
and  alarmed  people.  Commodore  Perry  would 
not  conduct  his  business  through  the  Dutch  or 
the  Chinese.  He  honored  the  Japanese,  and  he 
determined  that  they  should  honor  Americans. 
No  doubt  he  relied  on  his  display  of  force  in 
part  for  the  success  of  his  expedition,  but  he 
conducted  all  his  negotiations  with  great  cour- 
tesy and  wisdom.  On  February  2,  1854,  he  ap- 
peared again  in  Yedo  Bay.  The  signing  of 
negotiations  took  place  March  31,  1854,  and  this 
first  formal  treaty  with  any  western  country  was 
soon  completed.  Other  nations  rushed  in  to 
obtain  similar  terms.  Japan  was  opened,  and 
America  was  honored. 

The  Japanese  were  divided  by  these  transac- 
tions into  two  parties,  one  of  which  was  bitterly 
opposed  to  all  dealings  with  foreign  nations. 
The  story  is  long  uid  interesting  and  marked 
by  bitterness  and  blood  ;  it  shows  how  Japan 
finally  came  into  her  place  of  honor  among  the 
nations  of  civilization.  Her  old  feudalism  had 
to  be  overthrown,  daimios  had  to  renounce  their 
power,  and  her  shoguns  had  to  lose  their  influ- 
ence. But  for  a  time  intense  dissatisfaction  and 
great  excitement  prevailed.  A  marvelous  revo- 
lution has  taken  place.  It  was  found  in  1865 
that  several  Christian  communities  in  the  neigli- 


11 


JATANKSK    IIISTOKV 


M3 


borliood  of  Nafjasaki  had  inaiiitaincd  in  secret 
an  existence  ever  since  tlie  seventeenth  centnry. 
In  i86S  the  pnl)Hc  ediet-ljoards  annonnced  that 
"the  evil  sect  called  Christian  is  strictly  prohib- 
ited." The  Jesnitswere  snpjiosed  to  he  identical 
with  Christians  of  other  names.  Ministers  of 
foreijj^n  powers  remonstrated,  bnt  the  Japanese 
justified  their  procedure  because  of  the  conduct 
of  the  Jesuits  of  the  precedinj^  centuries.  Some 
Christians  were  deported,  but  in  March,  1872, 
those  who  were  exiled  were  permitted  to  return, 
and,  thank  (iod,  persecution  for  rcli<rious  belief 
was  ended  !  Tlie  Japanese  had  unlearned  the 
lesson  of  cruelty  which  the  Jesuits  had  tauj^^ht 
them  and  from  which  the  Jesuits  had  themselves 
to  suffer.  Th?  recent  war  with  China  has  broui^ht 
Japan  into  the  front  rank  among^  the  nations. 
She  will  henceforth  sit  in  an  honored  place  in 
all  their  councils.  God  grant  that  Jesus  Christ 
may  be  enthroned  in  the  new  Japan  which  to- 
day we  see ! 

Various  Items. — All  that  concerns  Japan, 
with  its  strangely  picturesque  scenery,  its  unique 
art,  its  historic  associations,  its  peculiar  native 
life,  and  its  recent  development  of  national 
power,  is  of  interest  to  the  tourist,  the  student, 
the  publicist,  and  the  man  of  business.  This 
far-away  corner  of  the  Orient  has  recently 
challenged  universal  attention.  Here  the  most 
experienced  traveler  in  Europe  will  find  fresh 
experiences  and  entirel)'  new  scenes.  Within 
less  than  three  decades  Japan  has  emerged  from 


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144 


AROUND   THE    WORI.D 


her  Oriental  sechision  of  the  ao;-e,s,  and  Japan 
is  bein^  rapidly  transformed  into  New  Japan; 
and  the  Japan  of  to-day  furnishes  a  picture  of 
the  coniniinj^lino;-  of  the  old  and  ihe  new.  It 
is  claimed  that  tne  first  emperor,  the  founder  of 
tlie  present  dynasty,  ascended  the  tlirone  660  b.  c. 
While  Rome,  Athens,  and  countless  cities  with 
massive  structures  and  imperishable  histories, 
have  passed  away  as  peoples,  Japan  remains. 
The  people,  while  gentle  and  courteous,  still 
preserve  the  brave  and  martial  spirit  of  their 
ancestors. 

The  empire  of  Japan  stretches  tlirough  nearly 
27°  of  latitude,  and  more  than  t,t,j4°  of  longi- 
tude. The  islands  form  a  line  of  more  than  two 
thousand  miles,  ana  the  whole  empire  has  an 
estimated  area  of  over  one  hundred  and  forty- 
eight  thousand  and  sixty-three  square  miles,  the 
main  island  being  about  fifty-nine  per  cent,  of 
the  whole  area.  The  general  shape  of  the  group 
is  that  of  an  archer's  bow,  the  string  bisecting 
the  sea  of  Japan,  the  arrow-rest  being  at  Tokyo, 
the  capital,  which  is  thus  seen  to  be  almost  at 
the  center  of  the  empire.  Among  its  mountains 
there  are  several  which  are  still  active  volcanoes. 
The  mountain  groups  greatly  reduce  the  area 
of  arable  and  cultivable  land,  which  is  almost 
wholly  in  the  valleys  and  river  p'.ains,  so  that  in 
the  whole  empire  it  is  a  comparatively  small  per- 
centage. Besides  Fujiyama  there  are  four  other 
mountains  over  ten  thousand  feet  high,  and  sev- 
eral others  are  but  little  short  of  that  heiglit ; 
indeed,  the  islands  themselves  are  simply  i-lie 


JAPANKSK    HISTORY 


M5 


tops  of  Otherwise  siibiiieroed   inountains.     The 
country  IS  narrow,  and  no  pp.t  is  distant  from 
the  sea  more  than  one   lirndred   and   seventy 
iiiiles.     I,ake   Biwa,  of  which  mention   has  al- 
ready been  made,  is  the  largest  body  of  fresh 
water,  and    has   a   shore    line   of   seventy-three 
miles.     Its  area  is  nearly  equal  to  that  of  Lake 
Cxeiieva.      The  population  of  Japan,  not  includ- 
ing  Formosa,  her  latest  acquisition,  is  a  little 
over  forty  millions,  the  average  distribution  be- 
ing two  hundred  and  seventy-three  to  the  square 
mile.    The  district  of  Tokyo,  not  the  city,  which 
perhaps  has  about  one  million,  has  a  population 
of   one  million  six   hundred   and   twenty-eight 
thousand  ;  there  are  seven  cities  with  more  than 
one  hundred   thousand   inhabitants,  and  seven- 
teen with  over  fifty  thousand,  and  there  are  forty 
with  twenty-five  thousand,  that  number  being 
necessary  to  constitute  a  city. 


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XII 


A  SUNDAY  IN  YOKOHAMA 

IN  describinjT^  the  events  of  this  first  Sunday  a 
number  of  facts  learned  later  will  be  men- 
tioned. The  rain  of  the  preceding  night  gave 
place  to  a  day  of  bright  sunshine.  About  ten 
o'clock  a  start  was  made  for  the  home  of  Rev. 
John  L.  Bearing,  who  had  kindly  offered  to  be  a 
guide  for  the  day,  and  the  first  experience  of  a 
ride  in  2l  jinrikisha^  or  kiiruma^  was  had. 

The  Jinrikisha. — It  is  impossible  not  to  be, 
and  perhaps  to  appear,  queerly  self-conscious  as 
this  first  ride  is  taken.  Some  one  has  said  that 
he  wanted  to  crow  and  gurgle  and  shake  his 
hand  im  a  second  childhood  when  he  took  his 
first  ride  in  this  baby  carriage.  You  are  drawn 
by  a  little  man  with  a  mushioom  hat  and  black 
or  blue  tights,  if  indeed  he  be  not  bareheaded 
and  barelegged.  It  has  been  well  suggested 
that  if  the  jinrikisha  had  pneumatic  tires  it 
would  give  the  very  poetry  of  motion,  and  would 
be  the  ideal  vehicle  of  the  world.  It  is  gener- 
ally thought  to  be  a  peculiarly  Japanese  institu- 
tion, but  this  is  not  so.  It  was  suggested  by 
Rev.  Jonathan  Goble,  who  at  one  time  was  on 
Commodore  Perry's  flagship,  and  who  later  went 
146 


1 


I 


'\ 


A   SUNDAY   IN   YOKOHAMA 


147 


to  Japan  as  a  missionary.  Some  Japanese  au- 
thorities place  its  introduction  in  the  year  1867, 
and  others  in  187 1.  It  was  an  evolution  of  the 
baby  carriag-e  ;  it  was  a  growth,  and  probably 
Mr.  Goble  designed  it  with  a  view  to  carrying^ 
his  wife  about  more  comfortably  during  their 
various  missionary  journeys.  It  is  now  found 
in  China,  Ceylon,  India,  and  other  parts  of  the 
Ea>t. 

Its  use  is  rapidly  spreading.  Great  efforts 
were  i.ade  to  introduce  it  into  California  and 
the  Hawaiian  Islands,  but  no  one  could  be 
found  who  was  willing  to  run  with  it.  The 
Japanese  consuls  in  America  were  strongly  op- 
poied  to  having  their  conntrymtu  degraded  by 
running  with  it  in  America.  Running  with  it 
is  truly  a  degr:Tdation,  for  it  cheapens  manhood 
and  makes  men  beasts  of  burden.  It  is  said 
that  men  cannot  run  with  it  more  than  five  or 
seven  years  before  they  are  used  up.  Peihaps 
it  gives  the  rider  either  the  idea  of  superiority 
or  of  degradation  ;  certainly  it  tends  much  to 
minister  to  the  feeling  of  caste  ;  no  sensitive  man, 
at  the  first  at  least,  likes  to  be  drawn  by  a  fellow- 
man  who  is  thus  taking  the  place  of  an  animal. 
But  it  must  b(  admitted  that  these  little  car- 
riages are  wono^-^'illy  convenient.  They  will 
come  right  up  to  your  doorstep.  Your  "horse," 
instead  of  being  an  object  of  care  to  you,  makes 
you  the  subject  of  his  care.  He  looks  after  you 
at  every  moment.  When  it  rains  he  tucks  you 
up;  when  it  is  sunny  he  can  shade  \  -n.  He  will 
carry  you  to  the  steps  of  your  j\v  n  house  or  hotel 


iv 


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II  < 


148 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


and  will  assist  you  to  alight.  He  is  a  remark- 
able horse.  He  will  run  with  you  in  this  careful 
way  a  long  distance  and  charge  you  only  five 
cents  for  his  trouble. 

Visiting  Churches. — Some  of  these  thoughts 
went  through  my  mind  as  we  ran  to  Mr.  Bear- 
ing's pleasant  home,  which  was  formerly  the 
home  of  the  learned  and  devoted  Dr.  Nathan 
Brown.  Soon  we  were  in  the  Japanese  Baptist 
churcli.  The  streets  were  muddy  and  the  con- 
gregation wore  their  getas^  wooden  clogs,  which 
lifted  their  feet  two  or  three  inches  from  the 
ground.  These  were  piled  up  at  the  door,  and 
the  congregation  entered  the  churcli  walking 
on  the  clean  mats  in  their  stocking  feet,  or 
with  light  sandals.  IVIost  attractive  was  the 
congregation  dressed  in  kimonos^  bound  with 
the  ubi.  which  was  tied  behind  in  a  big  bow. 
The  girls  from  Miss  Converse's  school  looked 
as  if  they  had  been  cut  out  of  a  screen  or  a  fan. 
The  devotional  exen  ises  were  conducted  by  a 
Japanese  helper,  and  all  the  people  joined  audi- 
bly in  responsive  readings,  reading  with  a  meas- 
ured cadence,  in  a  peculiar  sing-song  fashion. 
This  I  learned  is  the  old  Japanese  style,  a  style 
wliich  is  beginning  to  disappear  in  the  New 
Japan  of  to-day.  The  -.ernion  was  preached  by 
the  pastor.  Rev.  A.  A.  Bennett.  Next  to  Doctor 
Rhees,  Mr.  I'ennett  has  been  the  longest  in  the 
service  of  the  Missionary  Union  in  Japan.  He 
was  graduated  at  Brown  and  at  Morgan  Park, 
and  is  a  man  of  scholarly  habits  and  attainments. 


i 


<V', 


A   SUNDAY    IN    YOKOHAMA 


149 


of  marked  consecration  of  heart,  and  of  equal  gen- 
tleness of  manner.  He  is  a  fine  Japanese  scholar. 
T  listened  attentively  and  feel  qualified  to  say  that 
he  spoke  Japanese  without  hesitation  ;  my  judg- 
nient  does  not  go  beyond  that  point,  but  those 
who  are  capable  of  judging  give  him  high  praise 
as  a  speaker  of  Japanese.  The  service  was  de- 
vout and  tender.  This  Japanese  church  in  two 
particulars  sets  an  example  which  our  churches 
at  home  might  well  follow — many  of  them  knelt 
in  prayer,  and  all  responded  at  the  end  of  the 
prayers  with  an  audible  "  Amen."  This  is  clearly 
a  scriptural  usage,  and  it  ought  to  be  universally 
a  Baptist  usage.  It  is  a  reproach  upon  us  that 
it  is  not. 

We  hastened  to  the  Union  Church  and  joined 
in  worship  in  English,  the  sermon  being  preached 
by  the  Rev.  Mr.  Waddell,  a  missionary ;  then 
to  Mr.  Bennett's  hospitable  home,  where  Mrs. 
Bennett  and  the  seven  interesting  children  were 
met.  Mrs.  Bennett  is  the  daughter  of  Rev.  B. 
W.  Barrows,  now  of  New  York  and  an  honored 
member  of  the  Calvary  Church.  She  is  in  per- 
son, in  character,  in  scholarship,  and  in  mission- 
ary devotion,  the  true  helper  of  her  husband. 
After  dinner  we  walked  to  the  point  on  the 
Bluff,  where  is  the  cemetery,  to  see  the  grave  of 
Nathan  Brown,  d.  d.  Mr.  Bennett's  taste  and 
skill  assisted  in  carrying  out  Doctor  Brown's 
wish  in  regard  to  his  tombstone.  On  four  boul- 
ders rests  a  slab  of  gray  granite.  A  thin  coating 
of  red  granite  is  made  to  look  like  a  piece  of 
thin  fabric  thrown  over  a  number  of  books  and 


l> 


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AROUND   THE   WORLD 


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scrolls  which  are  partly  seen  peeping  ont  from 
beneath  it.  Except  the  date,  Doctor  Brown  him- 
self wrote  the  inscription  :  "  In  memory  of  Na- 
than Brown,  American  Missionary,  born  June 
22,  1807,  died  January  i,  1886.  God  bless  the 
Japanese."  There  is  a  carving  of  a  book  marked 
"Revelation," and  an  open  hymn  book,  with  one 
cover  partly  inserted  into  the  "  Epistle  to  the 
Hebrews."  Doctor  Brown's  last  work  was  on 
this  new  hymn  book  and  the  revision  of  this 
Epistle.  He  was  an  accurate  scholar,  a  great 
philologist,  and  a  truly  good  man. 

Some  Fine  Institutions.  —  We  next  pro- 
ceeded to  the  Mary  L.  Colby  Home.  Beautiful 
for  situation  is  this  home,  honored  is  the  name 
it  bears,  and  excellent  is  the  work  it  does.  At 
its  head  is  Miss  C.  A.  Converse,  who  came  to 
Yokohama  in  1889  to  take  charge  of  the  girls' 
school,  then  under  the  care  of  Mrs.  Brown,  now 
Mrs.  Ashmore,  a  school  located  in  the  rear  of  the 
lot  on  which  stands  the  home  which  was  then 
Mrs.  Brown's.  Miss  Converse  was  previously  a 
teacher  in  the  Vermont  Academy,  at  Saxton's 
River,  Vermont.  She  is  a  competent  teacher,  is 
much  beloved  by  the  girls  under  her  care,  and 
has  been  blessed  in  leading  many  of  them  to 
Christ.  The  girls  were  soon  to  go  away  for  the 
season,  and  some  of  them  to  heathen  homes. 
This  was  a  tender  session.  Miss  Converse  read 
our  lyord's  prayer  in  John,  seventeenth  chapter, 
and  made  appropriate  comments  thereon.  Then 
the  writer  was  asked  to  address  the  girls,  giving 


It   i»  ^ 

fl      1/ 


A   SUNDAY   IN    YOKOHAMA 


151 


them  encouragement  to  be  faithful  to  Christ 
even  unto  death.  His  words  were  interpreted 
by  an  estimable  young  Eurasian  sister,  whose 
father's  name  is  well  known  all  over  the  East  as 
the  head  of  a  great  business  firm.  In  her  early 
years  she  lived  in  the  home  of  a  gentleman 
widely  known  in  connection  with  English  con- 
sular service.  Slie  is  well  educated  and  is  in  all 
respects  a  very  worthy  young  woman,  She  is 
now  Miss  Converse's  assistant.  Her  case  will 
suggest  later  some  comments  on  the  problems 
growing  out  of  this  large  class  in  the  East,  and 
on  the  moral  character  -^f  many  Europeans  who 
have  in  the  East  temporary  homes  and  wives, 
who  are  not  wives,  and  children  whom  many  of 
them  afterward  do  not  recognize  as  their  chil- 
dren. On  the  Monday  evening  following,  tliis 
school  was  again  visited,  and  while  the  girls  in 
true  Japanese  fashion  sat  in  a  semi-circle  on  their 
knees  or  on  their  heels,  the  writer  again  addressed 
them.  It  not  a  little  disconcerted  him  to  have 
them  give  a  genuine  Japanese  bow,  the  forehead 
going  to  the  floor,  and  this  act  repeated  several 
times. 

At  the  conclusion  of  the  school  service  Sun- 
day afternoon  A^e  hastened  to  the  grounds  and 
buildings  of  the  Yokohama  Baptist  Theological 
Seminary,  which  is  beautifully  situated  on  the 
Bluff,  and  which  overlooks  the  city  and  harbor 
of  Yokohama.  These  comfortable  and  appro- 
priate buildings  were  erected  in  1894.  There 
are  two  recitation  rooms  and  a  chapel  on  the 
first  floor  of  the  recitation  hall ;  on  the  second 


,1'.' 


I  il 


;» 


NV!' 


■'I 


:,     I 


.      I 


I  i* 


i'i 

I J 
fill 


^52 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


^'  ■'  H 


floor  there  are  recitation  rooms  and  a  library. 
The  inside  of  the  dormitory  is  genuinely  Japa- 
nese ;  it  is  well  that  the  students  should  not  be 
unfitted  while  at  the  seminary  to  ^;o  out  and  live 
among  the  people  in  their  own  style.  The 
course  of  study  is  toin  years,  and  during  this 
time  the  Bible  is  carefully  studied.  The  library 
contains  about  five  hundred  Japanese  books  and 
one  thousand  five  hundred  English  books. 
Friends  can  do  good  service  by  sending  good 
books  to  these  shelves.  Cannot  readers  of  these 
words  help  this  seminary?  Much  evangelistic 
work  is  done  by  the  students.  Some  of  them 
were  soldiers  in  the  late  war ;  and  some  of  them 
won  great  praise  for  their  bravery,  obedience, 
and  intelligence.  The  Rev.  John  L.  Bearing,  a 
graduate  of  Colby  and  Newton,  is  the  president 
of  the  seminary,  and  his  noble  wife,  the  daughter 
of  Rev.  Henry  Hinckley,  of  Roslindale,  Mass., 
teaches  Greek  there. 

Leaving  the  seminary,  I  was  soon  at  the  home 
of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Bearing  for  the  Sunday  evening 
meal ;  then  off  with  Mr.  Bearing  to  visit  some 
of  his  practically  outdoor  preaching  stations. 
Small  Japanese  houses  are  rented,  their  fronts 
are  thrown  open,  the  evangelists  stand  inside,  the 
Christians  come  in  to  help  in  the  singing,  and 
the  crowd  gathers  outside.  In  jiiwikishas  we 
went  to  two  of  these  stations,  which  are  located 
in  very  needy  parts  of  the  city.  Mr.  Bearing 
is  pushing  this  work  with  great  skill.  He  is  a 
man  as  tactful  as  he  is  forceful.  He  deserves 
and  receives  the  praise  of  all  his  brethren,     We 


i 


A   SUNDAY    IN    YOKOHAMA 


153 


have,  as  I  shall  later  point  out  in  detail,  excel- 
lent men  and  women  composing  our  Baptist 
missionary  force  in  Japan.  Returning  to  the 
Bluff  and  to  a  hall  connected  with  tlie  work 
of  the  Reformed  Dutch  Church,  the  writer 
preached  to  a  congregation  in  which  were  many 
missionaries  and  their  wives.  Some  of  them 
were  Methodists  who  had  been  attending  their 
recent  conference.  Such  an  audience  listens 
with  appreciation  and  tenderness  to  a  voice 
from  the  home  land  which  tells  of  Christ  and 
his  love  as  the  inspiring  motive  in  missionary 
and  other  kinds  of  service.  It  was  a  busy  and 
a  blessed  day. 

A  GuMPSK  OF  Yokohama. — This  is  now  the 
chief  commercial  port  of  Japan.  In  a  sense  it 
forms  the  port  of  Tokyo.  It  is  the  chief  treaty 
port,  Kobe  alone  of  the  five  others  approaching 
anything  like  the  same  importance  as  a  foieign 
trading  post.  Until  the  latter  part  of  the  six- 
teenth century,  it  was  included  in  the  village  of 
Ishikawa,  but  then  it  was  made  a  separate  vil- 
lage and  called  Yokohama,  which  means  "a 
by-coast,"  as  it  was  then  connected  with  the 
Yokaido,  or  main  road,  only  by  a  by-path  at 
Hodogaya.  In  181 8  it  had  only  eighty-seven 
houses  ;  in  the  beginning  of  1859  it  was  only  an 
insignificant  fishing  village  in  a  marsh  on  the 
opposite  side  of  the  bay  of  Kanagawa.  This 
town  was  the  one  named  by  treaty  to  be  opened 
to  foreign  trade  July  i,  1859.  But  as  the  water 
was  too  shallow,  the  place  "across  the  bay,"  as 


M 


^•t.'i 


i 


1; 


1         il 


...-  k: 


f 


' 


154 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


r?  1    ■'     .1 


^i    '^i 


some  say  Yokohama  means,  was  chosen.  Three 
years  after  the  port  was  opened  the  foreiji^n  com- 
munity numbered  only  one  hundred  and  twenty- 
six  ;  but  it  has  been  constantly  increasing  ever 
since.  Now  it  is  claimed  that  the  population 
consists  of  about  one  hundred  thousand  natives, 
seventeen  thousand  Europeans  and  Americans, 
and  two  thousand  six  hundred  Chinese.  Many 
European  nationalities  are  included  in  this  por- 
tion of  this  greatly  mixed  population. 

There  are  three  great  divisions  of  the  city  : 
the  Settlement,  the  Bluff,  and  the  Native  Town. 
In  the  Settlement  is  the  English  Hatoba,  the 
principal  landing-place  for  the  city.  This  part 
of  the  city,  in  the  style  of  its  houses  and  streets 
and  in  its  general  air,  i  ^ike  the  British  colonial 
towns  found  in  so  many  parts  of  the  world.  In 
the  early  days  the  Bluff  was  used  for  shooting  or 
for  pedestrian  exercise  ;  now  it  is  covered  by 
the  beautiful  residences  of  foreigners.  Some  of 
the  hospitals  and  consulates  are  also  located  here. 
Indeed,  natives  are  not  allowed  to  live  here  un- 
less they  are  in  the  employ  of  foreigners ;  and 
foreigners  are  not  allowed  to  live  elsewhere  unless 
they  are  in  the  employ  of  natives.  Formerly 
English  and  French  soldiers  were  posted  on 
the  Bluff  for  the  protection  of  their  respective 
countrymen  ;  but  the  progress  of  civilization  and 
the  cultivation  of  friendly  relations  with  the 
Japanese  have  made  it  unnecessary  to  furnish 
protection  of  this  kind.  Many  of  the  residences 
on  the  Bluff  are  charmingly  located,  are  superb 
in  themselves,  and  are  in  the  midst  of  tasteful 


u 


A  SUNDAY    IN    YOKOHAMA 


^55 


gardens.  A  little  beyond  the  residences  are  the 
rifle-range  and  the  race-conrse. 

The  native  town  stn  tches  alonj:;'  the  water 
front  north w., id  an<l  westward.  Ornamental 
trees  of  flowering  plants  pecnliar  to  Japan  are 
fonnd  on  both  sides  of  the  wide  avenue  which 
divides  the  Japanese  city  from  the  foreign  city. 
In  this  part  of  the  city  are  found  many  of  the 
characteristic  features  of  a  Japanese  city  ;  here 
are  the  shops,  tea-houses,  temples,  and  theatres. 
The  people,  for  the  most  part,  wear  Japanese  cos- 
tumes, and  it  must  be  said,  many  of  them  wear 
very  little  of  that  or  any  other  costume  except 
that  which  nature  furnishes.  Here  are  the 
streets  whose  names  are  well-known,  Honclio- 
dori,  and  Benten-dori,  Benten  being  some  sort  of 
a  goddess  ;  here  are  the  shops  of  dealers  in  silks, 
porcelain,  embroidery,  fans,  jewelry,  ivories, 
lacquer-work,  metal  work,  photographs,  and 
curios. 

Very  marked  antiquities  are  here  for  sale,  all 
manufactured  by  the  ton  recently  in  Yokohama 
to  suit  the  taste  of  enthusiastic  American  and 
English  buyers.  On  Main  and  Walter  Streets  and 
on  the  Bund  there  are  many  art  establishments. 
Here  is  a  street  given  up  to  small  theatres  and 
other  shows;  here  are  acrobats,  jugglers,  living 
statues,  athletes,  animal  monstrosities,  and  arch- 
ery galleries.  As  we  went  to  the  evening  serv- 
ice we  passed  two  "  yose,"  where  the  people 
were  assembled  to  hear  singing  and  story-telling. 
Glorious  views  are  had  from  many  points  on  the 
Bluff.     But  there  is  no  space  left  to  sj^eak  in 


MH 


,' 


. 


!vl 


I    fill. 


I 


156 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


detail  of  hospitals,  bridges,  shrines,  temples, 
gardens,  cremation  ground,  cemeteries,  and  res- 
ervoirs ;  and  there  is  no  disposition  to  speak  at 
length  of  that  part  of  the  city  which  is  one  form 
of  answer  to  one  of  the  most  perplexing  of  all 
the  social  problems  in  municipal,  perhaps  in 
human  life,  a  part  of  the  city  which  tells  of  sin 
and  sorrow  in  their  inseparable  relations. 

All  is  wonderfully  strange  here  ;  the  partial 
nudity  of  men,  women,  and  children,  the  extreme 
simplicity  of  the  architecture,  the  coolies  with 
their  heavy  burdens,  the  tailless  cats,  the  queer 
lap-dogs,  the  little  children  carrying  the  smaller 
children  on  their  backs,  and  the  women  with 
blackened  teeth  and  shaven  eyebrows  to  make 
themselves  hideous.  We  were  told  that  men 
and  women  bathe  promiscuously  in  the  public 
baths.  This  practice  was  not  seen,  as  the  writer 
did  not  take  a  public  bath.  Our  plans  are  made 
to  visit  Nikko,  Tokyo,  and  other  places  in  the 
north  and  the  interior. 


XIII 
japan's  anciknt  placics 

MENTION  has  already  been  made  of  the 
sug^gestive  contrasts  between  parts  of 
Yokohama.  Tliis  point  is  strikingly  illnstrated 
as  the  tonrist  passes  from  the  Bnnd,  the  strtet 
bordering  the  water-front,  to  Native  Town. 
There  is  almost  nothing  in  the  Bnnd  or  in  Main 
Street  to  distingnish  them  from  British  or 
American  thoronghfares.  The  dress,  habits, 
and  langnage  of  the  people,  and  the  style  of  the 
houses,  are  all  European  ;  but  when  you  cross 
the  bridge  and  follow  the  street  which  skirts  the 
canal,  or  cross  the  Nippon-dori,  you  are  in  a 
new  world.  You  are  among  a  people  whom 
centuries  of  isolation  have  very  powerfully  indi- 
vidualized. 

Striking  Contrasts. — The  Japanese  are  in 
many  respects  a  unique  race.  They  are  quite 
unlike  other  Oriental  peoples.  But  in  their  out- 
of-door  manner  of  living  they  are  like  many 
Southern  and  Eastern  races.  Here  the  people  in 
the  houses  are  almost  as  much  in  sight  as  if 
they  were  on  the  street.  The  opening  of  their 
stores  is  practically  the  taking  out  of  the  front 
of  their    houses ;    then  the  greater  part  of  the 

157 


:■  h 


.  '• . 


n 


i  I 


m 
if 


158 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


"h  ( 


■i>    H 


^  'ii 


!'*  \i 


l\fi 


interior  is  wide  open  to  public  inspection.  Here 
is  a  tailor  earnestly  at  work  to  complete  a  g-ar- 
ment  for  which  he  will  gtt  only  a  trifle  ;  here  is 
a  cooper  industriously  toiling ;  here  is  a  black- 
smith almost  without  clothing-,  sitting  down 
while  he  hammers  the  iron ;  and  here  is  a 
woman  mending  clothes,  another  washing  vege- 
tables, and  a  third  dressing  her  children, — a  very 
simple  process, — all  exposed  to  the  public  gaze. 
Another  peculiarity  is  that  places  and  things 
are  known  to  the  guides  and  coolies  by  numbers. 
The  Grand  Hotel  is  No.  20 ;  call  that  number 
and  away  goes  your  jiiirikisha  man.  Every 
dish  on  the  bill  of  fare  in  your  hotel  is  numbered, 
and  the  bill  is  printed  in  English.  The  waiters 
are  little  Japanese  men  with  black  tights  and 
different  kinds  of  sandals.  Thcv  understand 
some  English,  but  in  order  to  avoid  mistakes  it 
is  a  decided  gain  to  look  over  the  bill,  select 
what  you  wish,  and  then  give  the  waiter  the 
numbers.  He  runs  off,  repeats  the  numbers,  and 
soon  returns  with  what  you  have  ordered.  These 
people  are  our  antipodes ;  we  would,  therefore, 
expect  them  to  do  things  very  differently  from 
ourselves,  and  this  they  certainly  do.  Indeed, 
they  do  almost  everything  in  the  opposite  way 
from  our  method.  They  draw  a  plane  toward 
them  ;  so  with  a  saw%  and  its  teeth  are  set  with 
that  fact  in  mind.  They  mount  their  horses  on 
their  right  and  not  on  their  left  side  ;  and  in 
serving  they  reverse  our  methol  Other  illustia- 
tions  might  be  given  of  the  characteristics  of 
this  remarkable  people. 


\ 


\. 


K-"* 


JAPAN  S   ANCIKNT    PI^ACKS 


159 


A  Typhoon. — Durin*.;  our  first  days  in  Japan 
following  Liie  first  Suni.lay  the  rain  fell  iri  tor- 
rents. It  seemed  almost  as  if  the  heavens  were 
the  month  of  a  river,  and  the  wind  blew  in  a 
perfect  hurricane  also.  On  Monday  night,  while 
returning  from  the  generous  table  and  hospita- 
ble home  of  Mr.  H.  MacArthur,  a  cosmopolitan 
Scotchman  well  known  in  the  business  and 
social  life  of  Yokohama,  it  seemed  as  if  the  deluge 
were  to  be  repeated.  The  next  day  a  typhoon 
{taifun^  great  wind)  burst  upon  the  city,  and  no 
small  amount  of  damage  was  done.  There  were 
a  number  of  landslides  in  the  city  and  elsewhere 
on  the  railways,  and  many  trains  were  derailed 
and  a  number  of  lives  lost.  Junks  of  many  kinds 
were  thrown  on  shore  and  wrecked,  and  the 
papers  later  reported  that  not  fewer  than  twelve 
thousand  houses  on  different  islands  had  been 
blown  down.  The  air  was  robbed  of  much  of 
its  vitality  during  the  prevalence  of  the  typhoon, 
and  one  felt  like  his  linen — limp,  helpless, 
worthless. 

But  Mr.  Bennett  braved  the  storm  to  secure 
needed  passports.  Those  from  one's  own  govern- 
ment are  useless  except  as  they  assist  him  in 
getting  passports  from  the  Japanese  authorities. 
Perhaps  in  four  }ears  they  will  not  be  necessary  ; 
then  the  existing  treaties  will  be  revised.  But 
now  for  interior  trips  they  are  absolutely  es- 
sential, as  much  so  as  in  Russia.  There  are  only 
a  few  free  ports,  as  Yokohama,  Kobe,  Osaka,  Na- 
gasaki, Nugata,  and  Hakodate.  Treaty  regula- 
tions allow  foreigners  to  go  and  come  at  pleasure 


'.  .* 


m 


'I 


I 


:i 


.1:. 

r  i 

I 


,e.     i, 

'I 


■/'    / 


I 


11  f' 


1 60 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


within  a  certain  radins  of  these  cities  ;  but  if  the 
law  were  to  be  strictly  enforced  a  ticket  could 
not  be  bought  at  a  railway  station  for  the  inte- 
rior, and  not  even  the  humblest  innkeeper  could 
give  lodging  to  a  stranger  unless  he  could  show 
his  passport.  No  wise  traveler  will  make  any 
effort  to  evade  tlie  strict  observance  of  the  law. 
Formeviy  passports  were  issued  only  by  the 
foreign  office  at  Tokyo,  but  now  there  is  a  com- 
missioner at  Yokohama  who  furnishes  them 
when  application  is  made  through  the  diplomatic 
representative  of  the  applicant's  nationality.  It 
is  expected  that  the  passport  will  be  returned 
to  the  proper  authority  when  the  tourist  has  no 
further  use  for  it.  It  is  not  now,  as  formerly,  neces- 
sary to  name  in  the  passport  all  the  places  which 
the  tourist  wishes  to  visit ;  a  general  passport 
gives  the  necessaiy  permission.  All  these  de- 
tails Mr.  Bennett  kindlv  arranged  and  in  his 
excellent  company  our  first  trip  was  made. 

It  is  fitting  to  say  at  this  point  that  Japan  is 
reasonably  well  furnished  with  railways  ;  just  at 
this  time,  however,  they  were  somewhat  inter- 
rupted in  their  regular  trips  by  the  necessity  of 
transporting  soldiers,  l)ecause  of  the  exigencies 
of  war.  The  main  line  runs  from  Tokyo  to 
Kobe,  a  distance  of  three  hundred  and  seventy- 
six  miles.  There  are  also  a  number  of  roads 
under  the  direction  of  private  companies,  so  that 
in  all  there  are  more  than  two  thousand  miles  of 
railway,  the  government  owning  about  one- 
quarter  of  the  whole.  With  the  exception  of 
three  hundred  and  fifty  miles  all  the  roads  are 


'  I 


Ni 


\'> 


JAPAN'S   ANCIENT   PLACES 


l6l 


on  the  main  island.  The  cars  are  su<"^^  as  one 
meets  with  in  Great  Britain  and  on  .^le  conti- 
nent of  Europe. 

Kamakura. — Kamakura  is  about  fourteen 
miles  from  Yokohama  and  is  reachable  either  by 
jinrikisJias  or  by  rail  ;  we  went  by  rail.  The 
journey  took  us  along  tlie  borders  of  the  bay  to 
Kaneg-awa,  the  original  foreign  settlement ;  then 
we  passed  througli  numerous  rice  fields,  now  so 
deep  under  water,  because  of  the  recent  rains,  as 
to  cause  great  anxiety  regarding  the  harvest. 
Soon  we  reached  the  present  village.  Once 
there  was  here  a  large  city ;  for  nearly  three 
hundred  years  it  was  the  political  capital  of 
eastern  Japan.  It  was  the  seat  of  ^\\q.  Minomoto 
family  ;  and  Yoritomo,  who  established  the  sho- 
gunate  in  1192,  made  it  his  capital. 

Kyoto  was  the  seat  of  the  emperor,  but  only 
the  nominal  capital.  It  will  be  remembered 
that  the  shogunate  was  a  form  of  feudal  govern- 
ment ;  it  practically  usurped  the  functions  of  the 
emperor.  He  was  a  sc-^t  of  a  deity  who  lived  in 
seclusion  and  the  shogun  was  a  military  leader 
whose  office  was  hereditary.  The  authority  of 
the  shogun  did  not  cease  until  1868,  and  the 
transfer  of  power  from  the  shogun  to  the  emperor 
is  one  of  the  most  remarkable  events  in  nioderu 
history.  The  Yokugawa  rule  was  established 
by  the  great  leyasu,  and  in  1868,  for  the  first 
time  in  hundreds  of  years,  the  emperor  became 
emperor  in  fact  as  well  as  in  name.  Tn  the  da)'S 
of  its  glory  the  city  of  Kamakura  extended  all 


Mil 


'i\ 


'A 


I 


ifi 


r 


: » 


l62 


AROUND  THE   W'^RLD 


VI 

■  t 

f.  ,;    .h 

k  i 

P  ^      ■'  '■' 

I'     '.  ii't 


ifii 


ii 


I  r 


fi 


ll 


over  the  plain  and  into  the  valleys  among  the 
surrounding  hills.  It  is  believed  to  have  con- 
tained then  a  population  of  at  least  a  million  ; 
now  it  is  a  quiet  seaside  village  with  a  few  tea- 
houses and  scattered  native  dwellings.  At  this 
point  on  the  seashore  the  IMongol  ambassadors 
of  Kublai-Khan,  who  had  been  sent  to  demand 
the  submission  of  Japan,  were  beheaded. 

Kamakura  was  repeatedly  sacked  and  burned  ; 
and  it  never  fully  recovered  from  the  disasters  of 
the  war  of  1455.  Finally  the  city  of  Odawara 
rose  into  importance  as  the  seat  of  the  Hojo 
family  and  drew  away  most  of  the  remaining 
inhabitants  of  Kamakura.  At  first  thought  it 
seems  strange  to  us  that  so  great  a  city  could  be 
swept  away  and  leave  almost  no  traces  of  its 
existence  ;  but  we  must  bear  in  mind  that,  like 
all  Japanese  cities,  it  was  built  mostly  of  kin- 
dling wood  and  rice  paper.  There  were  no  deep 
foundations,  no  durable  materials,  and  a  great  fire, 
or  the  flight  of  years  would  soon  leave  no  trace 
of  a  city.  How  unlike  Rome,  Athens,  Jerusalem, 
and  the  scores  of  great  ci;'  >  whose  ruins  are 
now  exciting  the  interest  01    11  antiquarians. 

The  Shinto  temple  of  Hachiman,  one  of  the 
deified  heroes  of  Japan,  is  an  object  of  much 
interest.  This  temple  is  on  a  plateau  reached 
by  many  steps  and  dates  from  the  twelfth  cen- 
tury. Its  position  at  the  end  of  a  long  avenue 
of  pine  trees  is  very  commanding.  But  the  great 
object  of  interest  here  is  the  Dai  Butsu,  or  Great 
Buddha.  This  statue  has  a  supreme  place  in 
Japanese  ecclesiastical  art.     It  is  of  bronze,  is 


m  'I 


japan's  ancient  tracks 


163 


forty  feet  lllg^li  and  tlliieiy-seVeii  feei  111  clrcuin- 
fereiice.  It  seems  to  stand  in  the  nave  of  a  ca- 
thedral whose  walls  are  grand  hills  and  camphor 
and  icho  trees.  There  was  an  earlier  image 
here  of  wood,  which  was  destroyed  in  a  tempest. 
Then  this  one  was  erected,  having  been  bcgnn 
ill  1252.  Once  there  was  a  temple  over  the 
image,  bnt  the  sea  swept  in  and  destroyed  it  in 
1494,  since  which  time  the  great  fignre  has  been 
exposed  to  all  the  elements.  Within  it  there  is 
a  sort  of  chapel  into  which  devotees  and  tonrists 
may  go.  Its  walls  are  covered  with  bits  of 
papers  on  which  prayers  are  written.  No  one 
can  tell  how  so  enormons  an  atnonnt  of  bronze 
was  cast,  nor  how  the  image  was  placed  in  posi- 
tion. The  eyes  are  said  to  be  of  pure  gold,  and 
the  boss  on  the  forehead,  weighing  thirty  ponnds, 
is  of  silver.  Snails  are  crawling  np  over  the 
head,  but  so  profound  is  Buddha's  contemplation 
that  he  knows  not  of  their  presence. 

For  at  least  six  hundred  years  this  great  image 
has  represented  profound  contemplation.  Tidal 
waves  have  carried  away  the  temple ;  earth- 
quakes have  shaken  his  firm  base,  but  there  he 
still  stands.  In  front  of  him  are  the  chests  for 
offerings,  the  shrine  for  incense,  the  inseparable 
lotus  leaves  and  the  water  for  ablutions.  The 
great  thought  set  forth  by  this  statue  is  that 
which  is  the  central  idea  of  Buddhism,  the 
absolute  calm  which  comes  from  deep  thought 
and  the  mastery  of  pas^^ion.  In  this  respect  tiiis 
Japanese  sphinx  is  worthy  of  consideration,  and 
this  is  perhaps  its  only  merit  as  a  work  of  art. 


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AROUND   THE   WORLD 


Tourists  are  sometimes  photographed  while 
groups  of  them  sit  on  Buddha's  thumb  or  stand 
near  his  feet. 

There  are  several  other  small  temples  near, 
with  attendant  priests ;  some  museums  contain- 
ing relics,  and  a  good  hotel  called  the  Kaihin- 
In,  or  seashore  hotel.  To  the  latter  place  we 
went  and  had  a  good  dinner.  Then  a  walk 
through  the  woods  to  the  shore,  then  we  went 
back  to  Yokohama,  not  taking  in  Enoshima, 
attractive  though  this  island  is.  This  was  a 
somewhat  tiresome,  but  very  profitable  trip,  and 
Dai  Butsu  will  long  live  in  the  memory. 

Northward  to  Nikko. — vStill  kindly  accom- 
panied by  Rev.  A.  A.  Bennett,  the  journey  to 
Nikko  was  taken.  Re/,  and  Mrs.  H.  Loomis 
and  their  children  were  also  of  our  party.  They 
were  going  to  Nikko  to  live  for  two  months  in 
their  "  own  hired  house."  Mr.  Loomis  is  con- 
nected with  the  work  of  the  Bible  Society  in 
Japan.  His  knowledge  of  and  interest  in  Chris- 
tian work  in  the  empire  are  great. 

He  was  full  of  gratitude  that  the  military 
authorities  had  given  perfect  freedom  to  dis- 
tribute the  Scriptures  throughout  all  the  hos- 
pitals and  garrisons  in  Japan.  The  commander- 
in-chief  of  the  Imperial  Guard,  Prince  Komatsu, 
a  cousin  of  the  emperor,  and  now  commander- 
in-chief  of  the  Japanese  army,  gave  his  approval 
to  the  work  and  expressed  his  thanks  for  the 
good  which  the  Bible  societies  are  doing.  The 
vice-minister  of  war,  Major  General  Kodama,  sent 


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japan's  ancient  places 


165 


to  the  agent  in  charge  of  the  field  a  letter  for 
each  of  the  division  commanders,  instructing 
them  to  give  their  personal  assistance  to  the 
work  of  distributing  the  Scriptures  to  the  men 
under  their  command.  In  this  way  many  thou- 
sands of  copies  were  distributed,  and  eternity 
alone  will  tell  how  much  good  was  done.  It  is 
not  too  much  to  say  that  in  this  respect  a  new 
epoch  in  Christian  work  has  opened  in  Japan. 
The  reports  published  by  Mr.  Looniis  show  that 
during  the  quarter  ending  June  30,  1895,  eighty- 
six  thousand  two  hundred  and  fifty-five  Bibles 
were  sold  by  colporters,  commission  sellers, 
and  through  ether  channels.  Every  Christian 
must  rejoice  in  these  grand  results,  and  especially 
in  their  prophetic  significance.  Mr.  Looniis 
was  deeply  interested  in  a  Chinaman  and  a 
Korean,  both  of  whom  may  soon  help  to  make, 
or  at  least  to  give  interpretations  to,  international 
law.  Their  cases  may  not  yet  be  discussed  in 
the  public  prints. 

Characteristic  views  of  Japanese  villages 
greeted  us,  and  we  passed  through  many  miles 
of  rice  fields.  We  saw  numerous  illustrations 
of  pears  being  trained  on  trellis  work  as  are  the 
vines  in  Italy.  But  for  such  supports,  the  trees 
would  be  utterly  broken  down  in  the  great 
typhoons.  We  had  occasional  views  of  the 
Hakone  and  other  ranges  of  mountains,  and 
ever  and  anon  we  had  glimpses  of  Fujiyama, 
lifting  its  snow-capped  head  proudly  over  the 
other  mountains,  either  into  ihe  clear  blue  or 
into  overhanging  clouds.     This  mountain  is  the 


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AROUND   THE   WORLD 


crowninj:;^  ^'oJ'y  o^  Japan.  From  the  surround- 
ing sea,  as  well  as  from  many  parts  of  the 
empire,  it  can  be  seen  in  its  symmetry  and 
majesty.  We  pass  many  places  of  interest, 
change  trains,  and  are  finally  on  the  branch 
road  to  Nikko.  Not  far  distant  is  the  smoking 
summit  of  Nasunoyama.  Then  come  the  Nikko 
mountains ;  then  on  each  side  of  the  highway 
the  lines  of  grand  old  cryptomeria,  Japanese 
cedar  trees,  extending  for  many  miles.  The 
town  of  Nikko  consists  of  one  long  street  of 
typical  country  Japanese  houses,  weather-beaten, 
moss-covered,  low  and  open  to  the  street. 

We  found  a  place  at  the  Nikko  hotel,  and  there 
met  Rev.  Dr.  Guido  F.  Verbeck,  who  has  been 
thirty-six  years  a  missionary  in  Japan.  He  is  a 
man  of  whose  life  and  work  a  volume  might 
well  be  written.  He  was  born  in  Holland  in 
1830,  had  an  interesting  career  in  the  United 
States,  and  now  is  a  leading  man  in  Japan.  He 
is  master  of  the  Dutch,  French,  German,  Eng- 
lish, Japanese,  and  other  languages.  In  the 
June  number  of  the  "Japan  Evangelist"  there 
is  a  fine  article  on  his  character  and  services. 
He  lost,  by  his  long  residence  in  Japan,  his  Hol- 
land citizenship,  and  he  was  not  a  citizen  of  the 
United  States  ;  Japan,  therefore,  has  given  him 
a  special  passport,  and  also,  because  of  his  serv- 
ices to  the  government,  the  "  Third  class  deco- 
ration of  the  Rising  Sun."  He  is  a  warm  friend 
of  Mr.  Bennett.  Together  they  gave  mc  much 
valuable  information  regarding  the  Japanese 
government,  history,  and  language,  and  i'ft)H>cially 


Vt' 


JAPAN'S   ANCIKNT   PLACKS 


167 


regarding^  missionary  work  in  the  empire.  De- 
lightfnl  were  the  days  nnder  the  great  monn- 
tains  and  noble  trees,  and  beside  the  rippling 
waters  at  Nikko.  The  long  walks  and  talks 
form  pleasant  memories. 

There  is  a  Japanese  proverb,  "  Nikko  7vo  luinai 
tichi  7C'<7,  '■  Kekko"*  to  in  na^^^  which,  being  inter- 
preted, means,  "  Do  not  say  magnificent  till  yon 
have  seen  Nikko."  The  town  itself  is  abso- 
Intely  nothing,  bnt  the  great  trees,  the  hills,  the 
stream,  the  bridge,  and  the  temples  combine  to 
make  a  pictnre  so  snperb  as  almost  to  jnstify  the 
proverb.  Nikko  has  been  a  sacred  place  from 
time  immemorial,  bnt  its  adoption  as  the  bnrial 
place  of  the  early  shognns  of  the  Yokngawa  line 
gave  it  its  chief  historic  significance  and  its 
present  importance.  There  are  no  other  tem- 
ples in  Japan  at  all  comparable  to  those  of 
Nikko.  Natnre  has  beantifnlly  combined  with 
art  in  making  the  place  nniqnely  pictnresqne. 
The  first  Bnddliist  temple  was  bnilt  in  767  by 
the  great  saint  Shodo  Shonin.  Of  no  saint  in 
the  Roman  categories  are  more  miracnlons  sto- 
ries told.  He  fonnd  the  place  as  the  resnlt  of  a 
dream.  Later  the  name  of  the  hills  was  chancjed 
to  Nikkosan,  ^'  Mountains  of  the  Sun's  Bright- 
ness," and  then  storms  ceased  and  peace  reigned. 
There  is  really  a  sort  of  religious  air  about  Nikko ; 
the  vicinity  of  the  temple  grounds  is  calm, 
hushed,  dreamlike.  No  wonder  that  pilgrims, 
scholars,  artists,  and  tourists,  love  to  abide  under 
the  shadow  of  these  great  trees  and  in  the  com- 
panionship of  these  noble  hills. 


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AROUND   TH1-:    WORLD 


The  Mi-Hash  1,  or  sacred  bridj^^e,  is  an  ol)ject 
of  special  interest.  It  is  of  red  lacquer,  and  the 
contrast  with  the  deep  green  of  the  cryptomcrias 
on  the  opposite  bank  is  very  tine.  The  bridge 
was  built  originally  in  1638.  It  is  supposed  to 
mark  the  spot  where  Shodo  Shonin,  of  allitera- 
tive name  and  traditional  and  superstitious  fame, 
crossed  the  stream.  It  was  long  closed  to  all 
except  the  shoguns  and  pilgrims  twice  a  year. 
Connnon  mortals  cross  the  stream  on  a  bridge 
about  one  hundred  feet  below.  This  bridge  per- 
fectly suited  our  modest  ambitions.  It  was  pro- 
posed to  General  Grant,  when  on  his  visit  to 
Japan,  that  the  sacred  bridge  be  thrown  open  to 
him,  but  he  declined  the  offer  with  thanks  and 
crossed  on  the  lower  bridge. 

The  tomb  of  the  great  leyasu  crowns  the 
temple  height.  The  body  was  brought  here  in 
161 7,  imperial  envoys,  priests,  daimios,  captains, 
and  nobles  taking  part  in  the  ceremony.  leyasu 
was  deified  by  a  decree  of  the  mikado  under  a 
name  meaning  "  Light  of  the  East,  great  incar- 
nation of  Buddha."  Massive  granite  ^orn\  the 
symbol  of  Shintoism,  mark  the  entrance  to  the 
grounds.  But  time  and  space  fail  to  tell  of  the 
magnificent  bronze  lanterns,  the  cistern  for  holy 
water,  the  bronze  candelabrum  presented  b>-  the 
king  of  Loo-Choo  and  that  presented  by  Holland  ; 
of  the  five-storied  pagoda,  graceful  and  lofty ;  of 
the  tree  guarded  by  the  stone  railing,  the  very 
tree  leyasu  carried  about  in  a  flower-pot  when 
he  went  abroad  in  his  palanquin  ;  of  shrines,  of 
bell  towers,  rich  carvings,  horrid  ogres,  superb 


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JAPAN'S   ANCIENT   i'l^ACKS 


169 


decorations  almost  rivaliiifr  those  of  the  Al 
hanihra  at  (jraiiada  ,  of  the  sleep! n<(  '\it  over 
which  Japanese  priests  become  niysterionsly  and 
stnpidly  enthusiastic  ;  of  the  fahuhjus  l)easts  and 
the  impossible  men  in  niches;  of  the  silly  old 
woman,  a  dancin^^  jjriestess,  who  lor  a  few  small 
coins  would  execute  gyrations  worthy  of  an 
Kj^vptian  dervish,  and  of  many  other  thiiig.s 
quaint  and  queer.  Are  they  not  all  to  be  seen 
under  those  .i^rand  trees,  and  an  they  not  all 
described  at  length  in  elaboiate  books  on  Japan? 


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TO  THE  "  KASTERN  CAPITAL 


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WE  had  to  take  the  train  at  7.30  A.  m.,  and 
dashed  np  in  grand  style  with  q>\\x  jinrik- 
ishas  at  an  hour  which,  for  one  tourist  at  least, 
was  early. 

Off  for  Karuizawa. — The  ride  was  one  of 
eleven  hours,  as  we  had  to  change  trains  often, 
wait  long  at  stations,  and  make  many  zig-zags 
in  our  journey.  Along  the  line  of  railway  women 
were  seen  to  perform  most  of  the  hard  work  ; 
they  were  digging  in  the  rice  fields,  ditching, 
driving  to  the  markets,  or  riding  astride  their 
little  ponies.  Women  have  a  hard  time  in  Japan. 
A  nation's  treatn.ent  of  its  women  is  the  best 
proof  of  its  degree  of  civilization,  and  judged  by 
this  standard  Japan  has  far  to  travel  yet  before 
it  can  come  up  to  American  civilization.  We 
slowly  climbed  the  mountains,  going  through 
many  tunnels, — by  the  way,  the  Japs  have  adopted 
the  word  tunnel, — and  finally  we  reached  the 
Karuizawa  station. 

Awaiting  us  were  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Bearing,  Rev. 

and  Mrs.  G.  W.  Taft,  and  Rev.  and  Mrs.  W.  J. 

White,  Doctor   Patterson,  of   China,  and  other 

friends.     Mrs.  Taft  is  the  daughter  of  Rev.  Wil- 

170 


TO   THE  "EASTKRN   CAPITAL" 


171 


Ham  Hiimpstone,  and  the  sister  of  Rev.  Doctor 
Humpstone,  of  Brooklyn,  N.  Y.  Mrs.  White  was 
fornieriy  Miss  Eva  J.  Mnnson,  of  Yonkers.  She 
was  afterward  supported  in  Japan  by  the  Madi.son 
Avenue  Church,  New  York.  Mr.  White  is  now 
most  usefully  connected  with  the  Tract  Society. 
He  spoke  in  Calvary  Church  a  few  years  ago. 
We  were  a  happy  group  as  we  walked  toward 
the  Japanese  vacation  home  of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Taft, 
where  the  writer  enjoyed  his  dinner  after  his 
long  ride.  This  village  is  far  up  among  the 
mountains.  Once  it  lay  on  the  line  of  a  famous 
pass,  over  which  daimios  and  shoguns  used  to  go 
with  their  retainers.  When  the  railway  was 
built  trade  left  the  village,  but  now  foreigners 
come  here  for  their  holiday  season,  and  rent 
houses  and  bring  trade  and  money  to  the  old 
town.  The  natives  for  a  time  looked  upon  them 
askance,  but  now  they  bring  so  much  profit  to 
the  place  that  their  presence  is  endured,  if  not 
welcomed. 

Doll-like  were  the  Dearing  and  Taft  vacation 
homes.  The  whole  front  of  the  house  opens, 
and  the  screens  slide  and  all  the  rooms  become 
one  room.  The  floors  are  covered  with  matting 
so  clean  that  he  is  not  to  be  pitied  who  sleeps  or 
eats  on  the  floor.  Some  of  the  y  .merican  gen- 
tlemen always  took  off  their  shoes  before  enter- 
ing a  room.  One  feels  almost  as  discourteous  to 
be  sitting  in  such  a  house  with  boots  on  as  he 
would  at  home  if  sitting  in  a  parlor  with  a  hat 
on.  The  floor  is  the  seat  of  the  Japanese  ;  why 
should  you  put  your  booted  feet  on  it  any  more 


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172 


AKOUXD    TIIIC    WOKM) 


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than  you  would  put  thcni  on  n  silk  chair  at 
home?  Verily  there  are  worse  customs  thau 
taking  off  one's  boots  before  going  into  marble, 
wooden,  and  carpeted  halls.  Politener.s  is  second 
nature  to  the  Japanese  ;  prince  and  coolie  alike 
possess  a  spirit  of  courtesy,  and  some  Ameruans 
could  learn  useful  lessons  at  these  points  from 
these  Oriental  Yankees. 

There  are  three  kinds  of  hotels  in  Japan,  the 
European,  the  half-Kuropean  and  half-Japanese, 
holcni^  and  the  purely  native  inn,  yadoya^  or 
/latai^oya.  ]\ly  hotel  was  of  the  half  and  half 
order.  My  room  was  separated  by  a  paper  screen, 
and  not  thick  paper  it  would  seem,  from  the  ad- 
joining room,  occupied  by  two  estimable  women 
missionaries  from  Formosa.  They  were  lovely 
ladies,  without  doubt,  but  I  should  have  been 
glad  Lo  have  had  them  a  little  more  securely 
separated  from  their  neighbor.  Doubtless  they 
had  similar  thoughts.  If  one  sneezed  at  night 
he  felt  as  if  he  were  shaking  and  waking  the 
whole  house.  Such  thinness  of  walls  and  close- 
ness of  proximity  have  their  disadvantages.  The 
curiosity  of  the  Japanese  children  when  foreign- 
ers are  in  their  village  is  so  great  that  they  wet 
their  fingers,  apply  them  to  the  paper,  and  then 
place  their  eye  to  the  aperture.  In  this  case 
there  were  no  children  on  either  side  of  the 
screens ;  still,  thicker  walls  have  their  advan- 
tages. 

There  were  many  missionary  workers  at  Ka- 
ruizawa ;  they  were  from  Korea,  Formosa,  China, 
and  all  parts  of  Japan.    Those  in  my  own  special 


TO   TIIK  "KASTKRX   CAPJTAl. 


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circle  I  have  named.  The  Anglican  bishop  of 
Japan,  Doctor  Bickerstcth,  was  there ;  so  were 
members  of  the  British  and  American  Icj^ations. 
All  denominations  meet  for  common  worship 
except  the  Anglicans  and  the  American  Kpisco- 
palians ;  they,  except  in  a  few  cases,  attend  a 
service  of  their  own  in  a  private  honse.  The 
Anglican  bishop  signs  himself,  "Edwin,  Japan," 
and  this  assnmption,  it  is  said,  is  as  distastefnl  to 
the  government  anthorities  as  it  is  nnfraternal 
toward  other  religions  workers.  Bishop  Doane, 
of  Albany,  nsed  to  sign  himself,  "William,  Al- 
bany." An  Episcopal  rector  who  was  something 
of  a  wag,  so  the  story  goes,  said  to  him  :  "  If  yon 
shonld  remove  to  Buffalo  would  vou  call  vour- 
self  '  William,  Buffalo ' ?  "  "  Certainly,"  said  the 
bishop.  "Ah,"  said  the  rector,  "I  see,  yon  would 
then  be  BufTalo  Bill."  The  bishop's  reply  is  not 
recorded.  Bishop  Bickerstcth  causes  many  good 
Christian  workers  to  smile  as  they  think  of  his 
assumption. 

Tlie  rain  poured  in  torrents  all  day  Sunday, 
but  the  writer  preached  both  morning  and  even- 
ing to  this  strangely  representative  audience.  It 
was  an  occasion  which  he  will  not  readily  for- 
get. Happy  hours  those  were  at  the  homes  and 
tables  of  brethren  Taft,  Bearing,  and  White. 
How  we  talked  of  1)rethren  at  home,  of  news- 
papers, theological  seminaries,  drifts  of  thought, 
methods  of  work,  and  many,  many  other  things. 
How  precious  at  times  home  seemed ;  how  eyes 
became  moist  and  voices  a  little  choked  as  we 
talked,  off  there  among  the  hills  of  Japan,  of  those 


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AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


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separated  from  us  by  so  many  miles  of  sea  and 
land.  Christ  was  exalted  anew  in  our  conversa- 
tion and  enthroned  afresh  in  our  hearts.  That 
was  a  deeply  interesting;  group  that  came  to  the 
train  to  say  "good-bye,"  and  more  than  once  it 
was  difficult  to  say  more  than  a  small  fraction  of 
what  the  heart  felt.  Mr.  Bennett  and  the  visitor 
hast.'^ned  on  to  Tokyo,  and  soon  had  a  hearty 
welcome  from  our  dear  friends,  Rev.  and  Mrs. 
J.  C.  Brand. 

A  Glimpsk  of  Tokyo. — Charming  was  the 
hospitality  of  Rev.  and  Mrs.  Brand.  Mr.  Brand 
was  active  in  religious  work  in  New  York  when 
Mr.  Varley  held  his  great  meetings  there  about 
1872.  Mr.  Brand  was  then  a  Presbyterian,  as 
he  had  been  in  his  native  Scotland.  At  the 
time  of  Mr.  Varley 's  visit,  and  partly  because  of 
some  of  his  expositions  of  Scripture,  Mr.  Brand 
saw  that  it  was  his  duty  to  be  baptized.  Rev. 
Robert  Cameron,  then  of  New  York,  baptized 
him.  Later  he  did  excellent  evangelistic  w'ork 
at  Niagara  Falls  and  elsewhere,  in  connection 
with  the  New  York  Baptist  State  Convention. 
He  has  many  kind  words  to  say  of  Dr.  J.  B. 
Calvert's  relations  to  him  and  the  work  at  that 
time.  Mrs.  Brand  was  formerly  Miss  Clara  A. 
Sands.  She  is  one  of  our  most  experienced  and 
successful  missionary  workers  in  Japan.  Her 
knowledge  of  the  Japanese  language,  as  of  many 
otiier  things  connected  with  the  work,  makes 
her  a  most  valuable  helper  to  her  husband  in 
this  great  field.     A  birthday  was  celebrated  while 


TO   THIC  "KASTKRN    CAPITAL " 


1/5 


here,  and  the  thonp^htfiil  hosts  remembered  it  in 
pracefnl  and  delicate  ways. 

A  beantifnl  liaptist  circle  was  fonnd  in  Tokyo. 
Of  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Taft  I  have  already  spoken. 
There  were  also  Professor  K.  W.  Clement,  his 
wife  and  mother;  Rev.  C.  H.  I).  Fisher,  wife 
and  children  ;  Miss  Anna  H.  Kidder,  Miss  M. 
A.  Whitman,  and  Miss  A.  M.  Clagett.  The 
last  three  I  visited  at  their  work  in  the  Sarah 
Curtis  Home.  After  dinner  at  Professor  Clem- 
ent's we  repaired  to  Mr.  Fisher's  home,  where  a 
goodly  company,  representing  several  denomina- 
tions and  countries,  was  gathered,  and  there  the 
writer  preached.  Hearty  were  the  greetings, 
kindly  the  hearts,  and  prolonged  the  social 
hours  at  the  close  of  the  informal  address. 

Professor  Clement  is  preparing  to  open  an 
academy  for  boys.  A  fine  house  has  been  se- 
cured, and  the  work  promises  well.  There  are 
no  more  difficult  questions  in  foreign  mission 
work  than  those  which  belong  to  the  proper 
conduct  of  schools.  It  is  taxing  the  wisest 
thought  in  all  denominations.  The  school  ques- 
tion in  the  States,  in  Canada,  and  all  over  the 
world,  is  one  of  the  questions  of  the  hour.  For 
the  brethren  and  the  sisters  in  Tokyo  kindest 
wishes  will  be  cherished  and  heartiest  prayers 
offered. 

Tokyo  means  "the  eastern  capital."  It  is 
comparatively  a  modern  city.  When  the  new 
regime  began  in  1868  it  was  called  Yedo.  In 
the  time  of  the  shogunate,  certain  officials  were 
obliged  to  live  in  Yedo  six  months  each  year, 


\   t' 


■'i\. 


il 


u. 


■il 


1^  '1^' 


176 


AROUND   TIIK   WOULD 


and  ill  tines  of  war  their  families  were  sent  tliere 
as  pledj^es  of  loyalty  to  the  shogiin.  When  the 
mikado  went  there  from  Kyoto  he  took  pos- 
session of  the  shoji;^un\s  castle.  The  city  was 
then  thrown  open  to  forcij^ners  in  1868,  bnt  they 
arc  restricted  in  their  residence  to  the  district 
known  as  the  istikijiy  or  "  reclaimed  land." 
Tokyo  is  a  city  of  magnificent  distances.  It 
covers  an  area  of  about  one  hundred  square 
miles,  contains  two  hundred  and  twenty  thou- 
sand houses,  such  as  they  are ;  three  thousand 
two  hundred  temples,  such  as  they  are  also;  and, 
including  the  metropolitan  district,  has  a  popu- 
lation of  one  million  six  hundred  thousand,  but 
the  city  proper  probably  has  fewer  than  one 
million. 

It  is  a  disappointing  city.  One  grows  insuf- 
ferably weary  of  its  niterminable  rows  of  low, 
weather-beaten  houses,  many  of  them  no  better 
than  the  squatters'  homes  in  New  York,  which 
we  call  shanties.  Men  like  Percival  Lowell  and 
Sir  Edwin  Arnold  are,  in  their  painfully  extrava- 
gant descriptions  of  Japan,  the  enemies  of  Japan. 
The  former's  description  of  the  Ginza,  a  very 
decent  street  for  u  Japanese  city,  is  simply  ridicu- 
lous. A  visit  to  its  shops,  which  he  describes 
as  so  attractive,  makes  both  him  and  them  lu- 
dicrous. 


I 

h 


ASAKUSA. — Under  the  guidance  of  Mr.  Brand 
a  visit  was  made  to  Asakusa,  now  a  part  of 
Tokyo.  Here  we  saw  heathenism  fully  illus- 
trated.    Worshipers  were  coming  and  going  in 


■11 


TO  THE  "KASTKRN   CAPITAL 


?» 


17; 


a  constant  stream.  Tlicy  ranji^  a  bell  to  attract 
the  attention  of  the  god  ;  they  chewed  bits  of 
paper  and  hrew  them  at  the  wire  screen.  If 
one  ont  of  tl  ree  went  throngh  and  hit  the  hideons 
image  the  prayer  was  answered.  We  saw  wor- 
shipers rub  their  hands  on  another  hideons 
image  and  then  rub  them  on  the  part  of  their 
own  body  wliere  there  was  a  pain.  The  image's 
nose  was  all  rubbed  away  by  the  ]:)rocess.  In 
the  yard  there  was  a  sacred  horse,  kept  for  some 
temple  purpose,  like  the  sacred  bulls  in  India. 
It  was  all  very  pitiful  and  very  abominable. 
The  Japanese  are  an  intelligent  people,  and  yet 
here  was  idolatry  as  real  and  degrading  as  the 
fetich  worship  of  African  savages.  Still,  one 
may  see  this  idolatry  almost  paralleled  in  Russian 
churches;  one  may  see  Romanists  in  New  York 
showing  a  similar  superstition  about  an  alleged 
bone  of  an  alleged  saint's  arm.  Indeed,  Bud- 
dhism constantly  reminds  one  of  Romanism. 
Did  space  permit,  some  discussion  of  Shinto- 
ism   and  Buddhism  might  be  profitable. 

We  visited  Ueno  Park,  with  its  shrines,  mu- 
seums, and  statues  ;  the  pagoda  at  Shiba  Park 
and  some  of  its  temples,  as  well  as  the  observa- 
tion tower  at  Asakusa.  But  these  temples,  sur- 
rounded by  bazaars,  booths,  penny  games,  cheap 
shows,  shops,  and  photograph  galleries,  are  a 
weariness  to  the  flesh  and  spirit.  There  is  one 
shrine  at  which  a  prayer-wheel  can  be  seen. 
Compared  with  the  groves,  mountains,  streams, 
and  stillness  at  Nikko,  this  was  all  very  cheap, 
tawdry,  and  idolatrous,  even  in   an   idolatrous 

M 


1I 


i 


iJ 


I  ! 


WUmtHH^iOitiUHa 


KVOICV  •>•-•-  =• 


p 

k\  1/'. 

1    < 

i      ( 

n: 

l.E'' 


// 


,  « 


h 


178 


AKOIXD   TIIK    WORM) 


country.  Many  of  the  newer  government  l)nilcl- 
injjs  in  Tokyo  are  really  fnie,  and  would  he  so 
considered  even  in  a  luiropean  city.  The  sooner 
the  day  of  the  genuine  Japanese  houses  is  over 
the  better.  It  would  he  l)etter  to  tike  the  risk 
of  dyin^  in  a  modern  house  overthrown  hy  an 
earthquake  than  to  die  of  the  monotony  of  these 
rows  of  shanties. 

Back  to  Yokohama. — The  p;ood-hyes  were 
said  and  we  were  off  for  Yokohama  again,  stop- 
ping on  the  way,  however,  to  visit  tlie  tonihs  of 
the  forty-seven  Ronins,  whose  romantic  devotion 
fills  a  large  place  in  the  traditional  history  of 
Japan  and  even  in  the  daily  life  of  the  people. 
It  is  said  that  during  the  late  war  many  soldiers 
went  to  these  graves  to  say  some  sort  of  prayers 
in  the  hope  of  catching  the  spirit  of  these  so- 
called  heroes.  It  seemed  somewhat  like  home 
to  get  back  again  to  Yokohama.  Many  letters 
had  to  be  written,  various  social  courtesies  re- 
turned, and  some  preparations  made  for  going  to 
Kobe,  and  so  finally  for  leaving  Japan. 

It  was  a  great  pleasure  to  meet  Dr.  and  Mrs. 
Ashmore  at  the  home  of  Mr.  H.  AlacArthur, 
whose  wife  is  Mrs.  Ashmore's  daughter.  Dr. 
Ashmore  gives  all  who  meet  him  not  only  stir- 
ring and  accurate  information  on  many  and 
varied  subjects,  but  he  gives  an  almost  irresist- 
ible inspiration  toward  all  that  is  true  and 
Christlike.  May  his  noble  life  long  be  spared  ! 
A  cherished  purpose  was  accomplished  in  meet- 
ing Col.  John   A.   Cockerill,   who  is  in  Japan 


i 


> 


h    I- 


TO  TIIK  "HASTKRN   CAI'ITAI. 


. m 

to  represent  tlie  New  York  J/rm/,/.  IIis1k-t- 
ters  to  that  p.iper  are  very  valualjle.  He  lias 
becoine  an  autliorityon  all  matters  pertainin^r  to 
the  late  war  and  on  many  other  Japanese  snb- 
jects.  He  writes  fairly  re<rar(lin^r  Christian  work 
and  all  forms  of  missionary  labor.  He  was  a 
brave  soldier,  and  he  is  a  trne  and  patriotic 
American  as  well  as  a  manly  man  and  an  able 
writer. 


1  •: 


i 


, 


toimnirfi  i'i»i'r '"'  «ti.ii"ifn  *fitK,fit^^"*f^ 


^ 


r  i 


■J  ■ 


XV 


ACROSvS  THRUE   vSEAS 


■ 
•'i 

■I 


1 


:ii; 


.=11 


'■  » 


1,1  v 


THE  P.  and  O.  boats  liave  been  somewhat 
sharply  criticised  by  some  tourists,  but 
the  "  Verona,"  of  tliat  line,  sailed  at  a  conve- 
nient date,  and  passa<;e  on  her  was  secured  for 
Honjj  K.oii^»  touching  at  Kobe  and  Nagasaki. 
She  was  to  sail  at  lo  A.  M.  Saturday,  August  3, 
but  her  departure  was  delayed  until  Sunday 
morning  at  daylight.  IMr.  Bennett  most  kindly 
saw  me  on  board  Saturday  evening.  His  gen- 
tleness, kindness,  modesty,  and  ability  are  worthy 
of  all  praise  ;  the  memory  of  his  home  and  family 
will  be  indelible. 

Leaving  Yokohama. — When  we  awoke  Sun- 
day morning  we  were  steaming  along  through 
the  quiet  waters.  Sometimes  the  passage  to 
Kobe  is  very  rough,  but  on  this  occasion  the 
sea  was  like  glass.  Bishop  Walden,  of  the 
Methodist  Episcopal  Church  of  America,  and  Mrs. 
and  Miss  Walden  and  three  other  ladies,  were  on 
board.  His  discussions  of  mission  work  in  Japan 
were  very  instructive. 

At  Kobe,  which  we  reached  in  about  thirty 
hours,  Dr.  Rhees  and  Rev.  R.  A.  Thomson 
kindly  met  me  with  a  steam  launch.  We  were 
180 


ACROSS  Tm<i:i-:  si;as 


l8l 


!) 


soon  on  shore  add  (Iriviii*;  in  jinrikishas  to  tlic 
pleasant  home  of  Dr.  Khcus  Ikrc  Mrs.  Rhccs 
and  Mrs.  Thomson  met  ns,  and  a  little  later  we 
were  at  the  dinner  table  ehatting  of  friends  at 
home  and  of  recent  visits  which  both  the  mis- 
sionaries had  made  to  New  York.  lioth  Dr.  and 
Mrs.  Rhees  speak  of  feeling  the  bnrden  of  in- 
creasing years,  bnt  he  seems  to  be  still  vij^orons 
and  capable  of  doing  mnch  work.  The  IJaptist 
chnrch  in  Kobe  is  tastefnl  and  commodions.  It 
is  an  honor  to  onr  cansc  in  that  city. 

Kobe  and  Hyogo  are  practically  united  in  one 
mnnicipality  of  abont  one  linndred  and  forty- 
two  thonsand  inhabitants.  In  front  of  the  town 
is  a  broad  bay,  and  behind  it  a  low  range  of 
monntains.  There  is  here  both  a  foreign  and  a 
native  bnnd,  or  water  front.  In  the  foreign  part 
of  the  town  the  streets  are  broad  and  the  resi- 
dences handsome.  Hyogo  is  pnrely  Japanese. 
From  this  port  twenty-five  million  ponnds  of  tea 
are  shipped  annnally  to  the  United  States  and 
Canada.  Hyogo  was  not  formally  opened  to 
foreigners  until  October,  1893.  The  southern 
exposure  of  Kobe  makes  it  a  favorite  residence 
for  foreigners  in  winter.  There  is  considerable 
of  interest  in  Kobe,  and  in  Hyogo  the  chief  sight 
is  the  Dai  Butsu,  or  bronze  statue  of  Buddha, 
erected  in  1891  by  a  merchant  of  the  city.  It  is 
inferior  to  the  one  at  Kamakura,  but  is  much 
superior  to  those  at  Tokyo  and  Kyoto. 

A  Visit  to  Arima. — The  steamer  would  not 
leave  for  at  least  thirty  hours.     What  shall  be 


s 


I 


11. 


,1 


It     h'r 


'  J'. 


182 


AROUND   TIIIC   WORLD 


1-^1    ^' 


J . 


•**  », 


^i 


f^k 


!<       t 


'I    ," 
I        I 


W 


iH 


done  with  this  time?  A  pass  has  been  secured 
to  visit  the  palace  in  Kyoto,  the  old  capital.  But 
the  great  fair  which  has  been  long  in  progress  is 
closed,  the  palace  is  only  a  larger  and  finer 
Japanese  house,  the  temples  are  numeious  but  far 
inferior  to  those  already  seen,  and  a  few  more 
rows  of  Japa"  se  houses  are  not  a  very  interesting 
sight.  Yonaor,  fourteen  miles  over  the  moun- 
tains, is  Arima,  a  vacation  resort  for  missionary 
and  other  seekers  for  rest.  There  Mr.  and  Mrs. 
Thomson  have  a  vacation  home  in  true  Japanese 
style.  They  have  both  come  to  welcome  me  to 
Kobe.  He  stands  ready  to  go  with  me  to  either 
place.  We  cannot  go  to  both,  and  we  decide  to 
go  to  Arima.  There,  amid  many  beauties  of 
nature,  are  men  and  women  who  are  temples  of 
the  Holy  Ghost.  Temples  of  Shinto  and  Buddha 
one  may  visit  until  he  has  in  his  mind  only  a 
bewildering  sense  of  their  great  numbers  and 
insignificance.  There  is  no  uplift  in  their  influ- 
ence. For  the  mo.'t  part  they  look  like  toy 
houses  for  their  god. 

Mr.  Thomson  is  a  "hustler."  Soon  we  were 
off  in  jinrikishas^  three  in  number,  and  two 
coolies  drawing  each  one ;  the  distance  to  be  trav- 
eled was  six  miles ;  Mrs.  Thomson  led  the  way  ; 
the  writer  was  in  the  middle ;  Mr.  Thomson 
brought  up  the  rear.  The  dogs  barked,  the 
people  stared,  and  the  coolies  ran.  They  never 
stopped  running  for  forty  minutes,  r.nd  then  they 
were  at  the  end  of  the  stage,  a  distance  of  six 
miles.  Then  came  kagos^  pronounced  in  this 
part  of  Japan  almost  as  if  written  kangos,  with 


]'  !^' 


ACROSS  TIIRKK   SKAS 


l8 


two  men  to  each.  The  kaj^o  is  a  rude  palanquin 
made  of  bamboo  poles  ;  mine  was  too  short  for 
my  legs,  and  too  low  for  my  head,  which  had 
constantly  to  dodge  the  ridge-pole.  When  the 
coolies  came  to  lift  me  they  raised  me  a  little 
way  and  then  dropped  me  all  the  distance  which 
had  been  reached,  and  then  went  on  a  strike  until 
two  more  coolies  were  found.  Then  awav  we 
went,  the  four  coolies  swinging  along  with  the 
hard  bamboo  poles  sinking  into  their  bare  shoul- 
ders. 

It  is  a  degradation  to  men  to  use  them  so. 
General  Harrison  was  right  when  he  said  that 
cheap  prices  make  cheap  men.  Human  flesh 
here  is  very  cheap.  One  horse  would  have  car- 
ried me  better  than  four  men,  but  there  was  no 
horse  and  men  wanted  the  job.  There  are  only 
three  carriages  in  all  Kobe.  Poetry  of  motion  ? 
Yes,  poetry  with  uncertain  feet.  Still  the  men 
kept  step  fairly  well.  Up  we  climbed,  resting 
at  tea-houses,  walking  occasionally  and  then 
i.Jing  in  the  kaj^os.  What  a  weird  scene  it  was 
as  in  one  corner  of  a  tea-house  we  three  drank 
tea  and  ate  sandwiches  in  dim  lamp-light,  and  in 
another  corner  our  eight  practically  naked  coolies 
drank  tea  and  gambled.  Then  the  rain  fell  in 
torrents,  and  although  the  ka^^os  were  covered 
witli  oiled  paper  the  rain  came  through  in  spots. 
The  summit  is  reached  ;  the  descent  is  begun  ; 
the  coolies  run.  Shaken  up?  You  try  it  if  you 
have  doubts.  Home  is  reached  ;  another  doll- 
like Japanese  house.  Very  comfortable  are  these 
beds  for  tired  kago  travelers. 


V  u 


1 84 


AROUND  THE  WORLD 


ii(t. 


v:\jt 


,i 


Through  the  thoiightfuhiess  of  Mr.  and  IVIrs. 
Thomson,  assisted  by  Miss  F  A.  Duffield,  of 
Doctor  Henson's  church,  Chicago,  a  genuine  sur- 
prise was  in  store.  On  coming  down  to  break- 
fast all  the  Baptist  brethren  in  Arima  were  found 
awaiting  my  arrival.  They  were  Revs.  W.  Wynd 
and  J.  H.  Scott,  of  Osaka,  C.  H.  Finch,  m.  d.,  and 
W.  Wellwood,  of  China,  and  E.  N.  Walne  and  N. 
Mrynard,  of  Japan,  who  are  under  the  Southern 
Baptist  Convention.  We  had  a  happy  time. 
Then  off  to  the  hall,  erected  largely  through  the 
influence  of  Mr.  Thomson,  where  a  goodly  num- 
ber of  missionaries,  their  wives  and  children, 
were  assembled,  and  here  an  address  was  giv^ii 
by  the  visitor  from  America.  Then  dinner  at 
Mr.  Scott's,  and  then  back  over  the  hills  to 
Kobe. 

At  Arima  there  are  hot  and  mineral  springs ;  a 
railway  was  in  building,  and  soon  it  will  be  a 
still  more  popular  resort.  Nearly  all  the  bam- 
boo baskets  for  the  foreign  trade  are  manufac- 
tured there.  Its  medicinal  waters  early  made  it 
r  resort  for  rheumatics,  and  Hideyoshi  gave  it 
popularity.  The  top  of  the  mountain,  Rokusan, 
gives  a  glorious  view  of  mountains,  plain,  and 
sea.  I  would  not  have  missed  the  Ikai^o  experi- 
ence for  much,  but  I  would  not  repeat  it  for 
more.  Two  ^a^o  rides  will  go  a  long  way  with 
a  moderate  man. 

When  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Thomson  were  in  New 
York  the  year  before  they  greatly  added  to  the 
number  of  their  friends,  and  it  is  cause  for  grati- 
tude that  Mrs.  H.  O'Neill  is  much  interested  in 


ACROSS  THREK  SEAS 


185 


he 


111 


Mrs.  Thomson's  kindero;arten  work,  and  has 
lately  given  substantial  proof  of  that  interest. 
Mr.  Thomson  worked  in  Japan  twelve  years  in 
connection  with  the  National  Bible  Society  of 
Scotland,  but  for  about  eight  years  he  had  been 
under  our  Missionary  Union.  His  work  in  Kobe 
was  very  prosperous.  A  beautiful  chapel — of 
which  I  have  spoken — is  built  on  the  main 
street,  and  there  were  about  two  hundred  mem- 
bers. He  and  Doctor  Rhees  worked  togetlier. 
They  had  about  twelve  stations  around  Kobe ; 
the  most  remote  is  at  Liu  Kin,  or  Loo  Choo. 

On  this  trip  more  of  the  country  life  of  Japan 
was  seen  than  at  any  time  before ;  and  so  more 
poverty  and  nudity.  In  this  latter  respect  it 
would  be  difficult  in  any  country,  claiming  any 
degree  of  civilization,  to  parallel  what  one  sees 
in  this  vicinity.  On  the  way  to  the  hills  women 
of  all  ages  were  seen,  but  one-third  clad,  men 
but  one-thirty-second  part  clad,  and  children  and 
youth  of  both  sexes  and  various  ages  entirely 
unclad.  In  a  few  cases  boys  in  their  teens  were 
on  the  public  highway  unconcernedly  going 
along  in  purely  Edenic  simplicity.  A  little 
more  clothing  is  certainly  needed  in  all  parts  of 
Japan,  and  a  great  deal  more  in  some  parts. 

Through  the  Inland  Sea. — We  did  not 
leave  Kobe  until  nearly  midnight.  When  the 
passengers  came  back  to  the  ship  at  4  p.  m.,  the 
advertised  hour,  two  Russians,  one  a  prince  on 
his  way  to  take  command  of  a  warship,  and  the 
other  a  consul   on   the  way  to   his   post,  were 


i  II 


1 86 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


'.   t 


shamefully  under  the  influence  of  liquor.  One 
was  glad  that  they  were  neither  Americans  nor 
Britons,  although,  of  course,  they  might  have 
been  either.  From  Kobe  to  Nagasaki  we  went 
through  the  entire  length  of  the  Inland  Sea ;  it 
is  a  journey  of  about  a  day  and  a  half,  and  it  is 
one  which  will  never  be  forgotten.  It  certainly 
is  one  of  the  most  picturesque  bodies  of  water 
on  the  globe.  The  sea  is  studded  with  islands, 
and  most  of  them  are  clothed  with  verdure. 
Many  of  them  are  inhabited,  and  are  cultivated 
on  their  abrupt  sides  in  terraces,  like  the  vine- 
clad  hills  on  the  Rhine,  or  on  the  shores  of  Lake 
Geneva.  Some  of  them  are  conical  islands,  and 
here  and  there  are  bold  headlands.  The  moon 
shone  brightly  over  the  smooth  sea,  and  the  trip 
was  simply  enchanting.  It  reminds  one  of  that 
among  the  Thousand  Islands  in  the  St.  Law- 
rence ;  it  suggests  the  west  coast  of  Scotland, 
but  this  is  grander ;  it  suggests  the  coast  of  Nor- 
way, but  that  is  wilder,  the  shores  more  rocky  and 
the  heights  much  greater.  This  has  a  beauty  all 
its  own.  We  had  a  Japanese  pilot  in  charge  of 
the  ship,  who  knew  all  the  passages  among  the 
islands,  although  to  our  eyes  it  seemed  at  times 
as  if  there  could  be  no  outlet.  We  could  have 
sailed  for  months  without  tiring  over  such  a  sea 
and  amid  such  an  environment. 

Nagasaki  has  one  of  the  finest  harbors  in  the 
world  ;  it  is  four  miles  long  and  is  locked  in  by 
high  hills.  It  does  not  suffer  when  compared 
with  the  harbor  of  Sydney  or  Rio  de  Janiero  for 
picturesqueness,  so  say  those  who  have  seen  all 


i;-!    3- 


the 

by 

red 

for 

all 


ACROSS  THRKK   SKAS 


187 


three.  This  city  has  sixty-two  thousand  inhab- 
itants, nearly  one  thousand  beinp^  forei<i;ners. 
Here  Bishop  Walden  and  l:is  party  left  us,  he 
intending  to  go  to  Korea.  In  Nagasaki  the 
Portuguese  missionaries  landed  in  the  sixteenth 
century  ;  here  for  two  hundred  years  tiie  Dutch 
merchants  held  sway.  The  foreign  settlement 
occupies  a  handsome  part  of  the  water-front,  and 
beautiful  hills  rise  on  every  side.  In  company 
with  Doctor  Carrell  of  the  Methodist  Mission  I 
visited  their  boys'  and  girls'  schools,  which  arc 
picturesquely  situated  on  the  terraced  hills.  A 
class  of  girls  under  Miss  Russell  was  reading 
Hamlet  as  we  arrived.  The  Reformed  Dutcli 
Church  and  the  Roman  Church  also  have  fine 
school  and  other  buildings.  The  recent  typhoon 
proved  destructive  here,  producing  landslides 
and  injuring  buildings.  Near  Nagasaki  is  the 
lofty  island  of  Pappenberg,  from  which,  during 
the  persecution  of  Christians  in  the  seventeenth 
century,  many  were  hurled  over  the  steep  cliffs 
upon  the  seawashed  rocks  below.  This  rock 
stands  like  a  sentinel  guarding  the  harbor  of 
Nagasaki ;  it  has  been  well  called  the  Tarpeian 
Rock  of  the  far  East. 

Here  the  ship  was  coaled  after  true  Japanese 
style.  There  is  a  native  mine  near  and  coal  is 
cheap  ;  the  ships,  therefore,  take  enough  here  for 
their  trip  to  Hong  Kong  and  return.  The  coal 
is  brought  alongside  the  ship  in  large  flat  boats. 
Portholes  are  opened  in  the  ship,  platforms  at 
different  levels  are  erected,  two  lines  of  Japanese 
boys  and  girls  are  formed,  the  coal  is  shoveled 


I 


I, 


I' 


i88 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


:''U    . 


,  I 


■  I 


into  baskets  which  are  passed  rapidly  from  one 
to  another,  and  then  the  empty  baskets  are  sent 
back  by  the  other  line,  the  smaller  boys  and 
girls  forming  the  second  line.  Women  with 
babes  strapped  to  their  backs  were  among  the 
workers.  Their  labor  brings  bnt  a  few  cents  for 
six  or  eight  honrs  of  work,  but  they  laughed  and 
sang  in  their  very  limited  clothing  and  their 
abundant  grime  as  if  they  were  entirely  happy. 


m 


Okf  for  Hong  Kong. — We  now  turned  sea- 
ward fcr  Hong  Kong.  Before  leaving  home  it 
was  well  known  that  this  trip  was  taken  out  of 
season,  but  those  who  a^^  not  men  of  leisure 
must  travel  when  llx  ir  work  will  suffer  least 
because  of  their  absence,  or  not  travel  at  all. 
They  must  be  willing  to  endure  some  discomfort 
and  assume  a  little  risk.  Thus  far  there  has 
been  no  risk  and  not  a  bit  of  discomfort.  There 
was  not  a  day  in  Japan  nearly  so  hot  as  the 
closing  days  in  May  and  the  first  tliree  days  in 
June  before  leaving  New  York.  There  were 
two  sultry  days  in  Japan,  but  they  were  not 
worse  than  we  often  have  in  New  York.  In- 
deed, New  Yorkers  might  come  to  Japan  for  a 
cool  outing.  It  should  be  borne  in  mind,  how- 
ever, that  this,  it  is  said,  has  been  an  exception- 
ally cool  season  in  Japan.  I  am  glad  and  grateful 
to  say  that  thus  far  not  one  of  the  fears  of  anxious 
friends  at  home  has  been  justified  ;  neither  anx- 
iety, sickness,  nor  discomfort  has  been  expe- 
rienced. These  words  are  written  in  the  Formosa 
Channel,  with  Formosa  visible  on  the  one  side 


*  / 


ACROSS   THREE   SEAS 


189 

and  China  on  the  other.     The  ship  at  times  has 

tar  fonr  meals  each  clay  and  a  -cod  deal  of 
wrung   some    days  have   been   really   en  o  ed 

with T  '''T  ""T'^''.'  ^>  I^^^^^-^  '"'-^v  'eome  '1  nt 
with  a  staneh  ship  in  the  open  sea  there  is  a 
good  chanee  of  safety.  The  proverb  ^^ard  „:' 
the  typhoon  season  says  :  *.^^u"i^ 

June,  too  soon, 
July,  stand  by, 
August,  you  must, 
September,  remember, 
October,  all  over. 

Well  some  cannot  stand  by.  We  must  eo 
forward,  trusting  Him  who  holds  wi^ds  and 
waves  nnder   his  control.     The  distance  fm 

?red  mn^.  '  ^T/^  """^^  ^^  "^''^^•^>'  ^^--"  '--- 
W  f         ^''"'^^l'^  '^^y-'^-^   t««^  between  three 

Eastern  %t?'\l  "^^  ^^""^'  ^"'^  "-''  ^  t^- 
pastern   Sea;    then  we  traversed   the  strait  of 

Formosa ;  then  came  a  stretch  of  nearlv  three 
h  indred  miles  across  the  Nan  Hai,  or  Sonthern 
Uiina  Sea.     Ning-po,  Foo-choo-foo,  Amoy,  and 
Swatow  he  along  the  coast,  bnt  too  far  awav    o 
be  seen.     Bnt  here  on  the  eastward  of  onr  course 
IS    Formosa,  Japan's   recent   acquisition,  which 
she  IS  paying  a  high  price  in  blood  and  treasure 
ully  to  possess.     Formosa  contains  an  area  of 
twelve  thousand  eight  hundred  and  fifty  square 
miles   having  an  area  a  little  larger  than  tffof 
the  States  of   Massachusetts   and    Connecticut 
Semi-savage  clans  people  the  island,  but  some 


t'l 


) ' 


m 

If: 


■'*,   I, 


190 


AROUND  THE   WORLD 


day  it  will  add  greatly  to  Japan's  revenues. 
These  waters  have  often  been  described  as  the 
graveyard  of  commerce,  but  we  had  a  very  favor- 
able voyage. 

On  the  afternoon  of  August  twelfth  we  drew 
near  to  the  picturesque  shores  of  China.  The 
steamer  threaded  its  way  through  the  narrow 
lyy-ee-moon  Pass  separating  the  island  from  the 
mainland,  and  at  about  9  o'clock  p.  m.  it  reached 
the  roadstead  in  front  of  this  far-away  and  fa- 
mous British  colonial  city.  Hong  Kong.  Its 
lights  flashed  brilliantly  before  us  and  made 
the  quiet  waters  resplendent  with  their  various 
colors. 


.* 


■r 


n  ', 


XVI 
japan's  progress 

NOTWITHSTANDINO  her  handicaps,  Ja- 
pan   has    made    wonderful    progress,    a 
progress   which   is   one  of   the  marvels  of  our 
century,    perhaps   of   civilization.     During   the 
past   decade   there  has  been  a  greater  propor- 
tional development  of    the  cotton-spinning  in- 
dustry  than    in   any   other   country.     In    1888 
there  were  twenty-four  mills  in  operation  and 
one  hundred  and  fourteen    thousand   spindles  ; 
in  1895  she  had  fifty-eight  factories  and  eight 
hundred  and  eighty-three  thousand  spindles,  and 
fifty-five  of   these  factories   produced  over  one 
hundred  and  fifty  million  pounds  of  yarn.     Elec- 
tric lighting  and  power  plants  have  been  con- 
structed.    In  1870  the  first  railway  was  opened  ; 
in  1895  there  were  two  thousand  six  hundred  and 
eighty-one  miles  in  operation.     In  1869  the  first 
telegraph  line  was  erected  ;  in  1 891— the  last  re- 
port accessible — over  four  million  messages  were 
sent  through  the  empire  and  abroad.     Schools 
of  all  grades  were  opening ;    there  were  thirty 
thousand  common  and  many  technical  schools. 
There  were  seven  hundred  and  sixty-seven  news- 
papers and  magazines—agricultural,  educational, 
scientific,  and  religious.     From    1868  to  1881, 

191 


7. 


I< 


ifl'U 


!' 


VJ; 


I 


'I: 


\i 


I '% 


192 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


inclusive,  the  l)alancc  of  trade  against  Japan  was, 
on  an  average,  five  million  nine  hundred  and 
thirteen  thousand  yen  a  year  ;  from  1882  to  1891 
the  balance  was  in  favor  of  Japan,  on  an  average, 
four  million  one  hundred  and  fifty-thousand 
seven  hundred  yen  a  year.  This  projT;ress  has 
only  begun.  Japan  has  just  begun  to  feel  her 
power.  Americans  will  yet  be  building  great 
factories  in  Japan,  and  she  will  be  a  rival  of  the 
United  States  notwithstanding  high  duties. 
There  is,  therefore,  the  more  need  that  in  this 
morning  of  her  new  life  Christianity  should  be 
enthroned.  In  industrial  progress  and  commer- 
cial achievement  Japan  will  soon  take  her  place 
with  the  great  nations  of  the  world,  and  she  will 
in  all  probability  have  many  interests  in  com- 
mon with  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States, 
and  will  be  in  some  form  of  alliance  with  them 
in  relation  to  Russia  and  other  great  powers. 

Japanese  Missions. — This  subject  interested 
me  more  than  all  other  topics,  and,  although  it 
has  already  been  mentioned,  the  subject  is 
worthy  of  a  fuller  reference.  Protestant  mis- 
sions are  comparatively  recent  in  the  empire. 
The  great  political  revolution  of  1868  marked 
an  intellectual  regeneration.  The  late  war  dis- 
tracted thought  and  monopolized  eflort,  and  it 
demanded  in  the  field  the  presence  of  many  of 
the  Christian  laymen  and  some  of  the  evange- 
lists. Thus  the  work  in  some  mission  stations 
was  much  retarded,  but  there  were  marked  com- 
pensations.    Opi^ortunities  were  given  under  the 


japan's  pkoc.rksh 


193 


tf 


appi" 


al  of  th( 


it  for  (listrihutintr  ti 


hs 


. 


[^overniiK 
Hil)lc  amoiin;  the  soldiers  ;  many  Japanese  Cliris- 
tian  soldiers  had  peculiarly  excellent  chances  to 
witness  for  Christ,  and  the  Christian  soldiers  as 
a  whole  proved  to  be  so  brave,  so  oljedient,  so 
loyal,  and  so  trnstworthy,  that  Christianity  won 
as  glorious  a  victory  as  did  Japan.  Indeed,  in  a 
very  real  sense  Christianity  was  on  trial  in  this 
war,  and  superbly  did  it  bear  the  test.  I  have 
met  some  men  from  the  Baptist  schools  who 
were  brave  soldiers  for  the  empire  of  Japan  and 
the  king^dom  of  God. 

I  have  talked  with  Christian  workers  of  many 
denominations,  and  have  tried  to  classify  and 
formulate  their  replies  to  pointed  questions. 
The  number  of  missionaries  in  Japan  seems  to 
be  large,  but  what  are  they  among  forty  millions 
of  people?  This  population  is  about  two-thirds 
that  of  the  United  States.  What  could  the  hun- 
dreds of  missionaries  in  Japan  do  if  they  were 
the  only  religious  teachers  in  the  American  re- 
public? All  are  agreed  that  the  standard  of 
Christian  living  among  the  native  church-mem- 
bers is  constantly  rising.  They  are  subject  to 
great  trials  Shall  they  close  their  shops  on 
Sunday?  '^.^hat  is  the  day  of  most  profitable 
trade.  See  those  closed  shops  in  that  row  of 
busy  scores !  How  eloquent  is  that  silent  testi- 
mony! Sunday  is  a  holiday  for  many  govern- 
ment employees,  and  then  they  v/ish  to  do  their 
trading.  Examples  of  superb  heroism  have  be^^n 
given  in  many  cases  by  Christian  merchants. 
All  are  agreed  also  that  since  the  war  congrega- 

N 


'I  I 


' 


/ 


I 


,i! 


'^ 


ilS^KsaSBBMHWW*'^^*"'"'' 


194 


AROUND    TIN';    WORM) 


*    •*  . 


in  I 


tions  are  incrcasinj;^,  and  in  many  instances  the 
children  of  Christian  converts  are  anionj^  wor- 
shipers and  converts.  Here  is  a  distinct  element 
of  hope  and  power. 

Thk  School  Qukstion. — All  Christian  work- 
ers seem  to  he  in  abont  eqnal  perplexity  re^ard- 
inp^  the  proper  condnct  of  schools.  There  is 
danj^er  that  the  Christian  schools  will  be  secn- 
larized.  Their  stndents  are  at  a  disadvantaj^e  at 
the  universities  and  at  the  jrovcrnment  offices. 
Ought  there  to  be  any  schools  in  competition 
with  the  {general  system  of  public  instruction  in 
an  empire  like  Japan?  Ought  we  to  encourage 
students  to  continue  to  take  advantage  of  our 
schools  while  they  are  avowedly  licathen  and 
propose  so  to  remain  ?  In  a  word,  the  school 
question  is  the  great  modern  question  in  nearly 
all  countries. 

A  very  liberal  theology  is  troubling  some 
churches.  The  Congregational  brethren  are  face 
to  face  with  this  trial  and  with  other  perplexi- 
ties somewhat  related.  The  great  difficulty  in 
getting  a  usable  knowledge  of  the  language  in 
preaching  is  common  to  all  the  workers.  Some 
will  never  get  this  knowledge,  but  they  can  still 
do  fairly  good  work  through  interpreters  and  in 
many  personal  ways.  This  great  field  is  white 
unto  the  harvest.  Work  to-day  will  tell  mightily 
in  the  near  future.  All  seem  to  be  agreed  that 
we  need  to  do  a  vast  amount  of  distinctly  evan- 
gelistic work,  and  also  that  we  ought  much 
more  than  in  the  past  to  use  the  press.     The 


I 


!^fc,i.. 


ii    r. 


^■.»l= 


J  AP.\N  's  p kor,  R r.ss 


195 


.'1 


Japanese  arc  a  rcadiu)^  people.  Tlicse  j^^roups  of 
jiurikisha  men,  wlioiii  we  see  on  every  liaiul,  are 
all  reading;  their  Ja])ancse  pai)er  while  they  wait 
for  patrons.  May  the  pierced  hand  of  Jesns 
Christ  speedily  be  put  on  the  press  of  Japan  ! 
We  need  no  mediocre  men  here  ;  we  want  our 
brightest,  best,  and  most  consecrated.  This  is 
the  "  Land  of  the  Rising  Snn." 

We  have  noble  Haptist  men  and  women  here. 
As  a  whole  they  are  doing  grandly  amid  many 
difficnlties.  Se'dtm  arc  nobler  women  fonnd 
than  arc  these.  They  are  in  cnltnre,  character, 
and  consecration  worthy  of  their  positions  and 
responsibilities.  It  was  a  joy  to  meet  them.  It 
will  be  a  pleasing  memory  to  recall  the  meetings 
with  them  in  different  parts  of  the  empire.  I 
tnrn  away  from  Japan  and  hasten  toward  China, 
India,  Palestine,  and  finally  to  America,  bnt  I 
can  say  in  the  words  which  are  on  Dr.  Brown's 
tombstone,  "God  bless  the  Japanese." 

Several  Japans. — Bishop  Hendrix  has  re- 
cently called  attention  to  the  fact  that  there  art 
at  least  three  Japans.  There  is,  first,  Official 
Japan.  This  inclndes  all  the  public  buildings, 
such  as  customs,  postal  service,  courts,  educa- 
tion, police,  legislative  and  executive  depart- 
ments of  the  government,  and  their  officers.  All 
these  buildings  ignore  the  old  Japan  and  her 
unique  type  of  architecture.  The  officers  of  the 
government,  whether  civil,  military,  or  naval, 
wear  foreign  dress.  They  are  so  uniformed  that 
one  can  readily  tell  to  what  branch  of  service 


il 


196 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


they  belong-.  Many  of  them  speak  English  or 
French,  and  were  educated  in  foreign  countries 
or  under  foreign  teachers  brought  to  Japan. 
Foreign  dress,  manners,  and  customs  are  affected 
by  this  class  of  Japanese.  Official  Japan  is 
striving  to  imitate  the  characteristics  of  Euro- 
pean countries  in  things  both  great  and  small. 

Official  Japan  is  ambitious  for  the  future  of 
the  country  and  for  its  good  name  among  Eu- 
ropeans. It  is  striving  to  compel  the  peasantry 
to  wear  fuller  clothing.  It  has  also  largely 
abolished  the  custom  of  promiscuous  bathing  on 
the  part  of  the  sexes,  and  it  has  controlled  many 
of  the  barbarous  tendencies  of  the  earlier  dav. 
It  has  done  much  also  to  remove  the  offensive 
clauses  of  treaties  and  to  bring  Japan  into  touch 
with  the  great  nations  of  Europe.  Official  Japan 
is  courteous  to  foreigners.  It  is  turning  its  back 
toward  the'early  conservatism  and  its  face  to- 
ward the  hopeful  progress  characteristic  of  the 
hour.  It  is  making  a  careful  study  of  commerce, 
war,  education,  and  diplomacy.  It  has  not 
adopted  the  Christian  faith,  but  it  has  largely 
broken  with  the  old  heathen  superstitions.  It 
is  proud,  hopeful,  brave,  and  sometimes  boast- 
ful. It  has  great  possibilities  and  it  is  not  free 
from  certain  dangers. 

The  same  writer  calls  attention  also  to  Old 
Japan.  This  Japan  is  as  devoted  as  ever  to  its 
idolatries  and  ancestral  shrines.  It  is  divided 
between  Shintoism  and  Buddhism.  It  is  indus- 
trious and  patriotic,  but  devoted  to  old  customs 
and  habits.     It  still  bows  before  its  shrines,  burns 


\i 


i  ■ 


japan's  progrkss 


197 


incense,  makes  its  "  dead  boats,"  and  still  seeks 
to  propitiate  the  fox,  as  did  past  generations. 
Its  worshipers  are  found  not  only  in  rural  dis- 
tricts but  in  the  large  cities.  Costly  shrines  are 
found  in  the  homes  and  business  places  of 
wealtliy  merchants,  even  in  the  treaty  ports. 
Heathenism  is  found  in  Japan  still,  as  truly  de- 
graded and  besotted  as  can  be  seen  in  southern 
India.  The  lavish  expenditure  once  made  upon 
the  temples  has  now  in  great  part  ceased,  but 
voluntary  contributions  are  still  made  by  the 
common  people  for  the  support  of  slirines,  tem- 
ples, and  altars.  It  is  true  that  not  many  new 
temples  are  in  building,  but  it  is  also  true  that 
almost  all  parts  of  the  country  are  well  supplied 
with  temples  already  built. 

One  imposing  Buddhist  temple  has  been  built 
in  Kyoto  within  the  past  few  years.  Bishop 
Hendrix  calls  attention  to  the  fact  that  its  mass- 
ive timbers  were  lifted  to  their  places  by  means 
of  hair  ropes,  for  the  manufacture  of  which 
three  hundred  thousand  Japanese  women  con- 
sented to  have  their  tresses  shorn.  These  ropes 
are  still  shown  as  evidences  of  loyalty  to  the 
worship  of  Buddha.  Old  Japan  still  clings  to 
■.he  former  things  and  rejects  the  progress  of 
Official  Japan,  even  in  its  most  brilliant  achieve- 
ments. The  mass  of  the  people  belong  to  Old 
Japan.  They  are  not  reconciled  to  the  presence 
of  foreigners,  and  will  have  nothing  to  do  with 
their  dress,  food,  customs,  or  religion.  Chris- 
tian England  and  America  send  improved  cotton 
mills   and   other  forms  of   machinery,  but  the 


"1 


'(' 


198 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


»;■'< 


'  »r 


Japanese  who  work  in  these  mills  still  retain 
their  idolatry  even  while  they  take  advantage  of 
the  inventions  of  Christianity. 

Bi.t  there  is  also  a  Christian  Japan ^  as  the 
same  writer  has  well  pointed  ont.  This  is  as  yet 
but  a  small  part  of  the  empire,  but  it  has  already 
greatly  influenced  Official  Japan.  There  are 
about  forty  thousand  members  of  the  Christian 
Japanese  churches.  They  have  more  than  four 
hundred  churches,  and  many  of  them  are  self- 
supporting.  They  have  about  thirty  thousand 
Sunday-school  scholars.  The  late  war  did  nuich 
to  increase  the  social  and  official  influence  of 
Japanese  Christians.  It  had  often  been  doubted 
whether  in  the  case  of  a  war  Japanese  Christians 
would  be  brave  and  loyal  as  were  the  heathen 
Japanese.  Once  it  was  feared  that  Christianity 
would  denationalize  the  Japanese  who  accepted 
its  doctrines.  Many  Japanese  believed  that  those 
of  their  number  who  had  embraced  Christianity 
would  be  little  better  than  foreigners  in  a 
war  with  the  Chinese  or  any  other  nation, 
but  it  was  found  that  there  were  no  braver  sol- 
diers than  the  Christian  Japanese.  It  was  not 
uncommon  to  hear  the  Japanese  shout  as  they 
recognized  the  bravery  of  the  Christians,  "  Long 
live  Christians !  "  Christianity  has  certainly 
gained  a  firm  foothold  in  Japan.  Its  progress, 
however,  will  be  necessarily  slow,  but  access  can 
now  be  had  by  Christian  teachers  to  soldiers, 
sailors,  policemen,  and  almost  all  classes  of  the 
Japanese.  The  chief  of  police  in  Yokohama 
has  promised  that  every  man  under  his  control 


I 


if ',' 
I  t 


».'' 


JAPAN'S   PROGRKvSS 


199 


ress, 
[can 
ters, 
the 
una 
Itrol 


shall  receive  a  copy  of  the  Bible.  He  has  also 
promised  to  distribute  two  thousand  copies  of 
the  Scriptures  anion<:j  the  fallen  women  under 
his  control.  Admirals,  field  marshals,  and  police 
officers  welcome  Christian  chaplains,  and  the 
chief  of  staff  of  the  Imperial  Guards  expresses 
pleasure  at  the  circulation  of  the  Bible  among 
all  classes  of  people. 

Bishop  Hendrix  well  remarks  that  "  Sir  Ed- 
win Arnold  saw  only  one  of  these  Japans."  The 
new  Japan  is  struggfling  toward  a  hi<>^her  sense 
of  commercial  honor,  and  is  striving  to  make 
this  country  worthy  of  the  confidence  of  all 
Christian  nations.  Japan  needs  a  permanent 
Christian  civilization.  Japan  stands  on  tiptoe 
with  the  light  of  Christianity  falling  on  its  up- 
turned face.  China  is  hypnotized  by  gazing  on 
its  own  dead  past.  Japan  is  inspired  by  gazing 
into  its  hopeful  and  brilliant  future. 

Passports. — As  already  mentioned,  passports 
are  necessary  for  traveling  in  Japan  outside  of 
the  treaty  ports.  Upon  presentation  of  my 
American  passport  I  was  furnished  with  an  an- 
nexed passport,  giving  permission  to  travel  '"n 
the  interior.  This  passport,  it  is  expected,  will 
be  returned  to  the  consul  general  of  the  United 
States  of  America  at  its  expiration.  The  bearer 
of  the  passport  is  expressly  enjoined  to  observe 
in  every  particular  the  directions  of  the  Japanese 
government,  printed  in  Japanese  characters  on 
the  back  of  the  passport,  and  also  translated  into 
English.     It  is  expressly  stated  that  the  bearer 


!«♦* 


It- 


\l 


/'J'    '       ' 

I     0 


K"'  ■  If!' 


^}r:n 


f| 


I 


•I 


Nl 


!'' 


200 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


of  the  passport  is  "  required  to  conduct  himself 
in  an  orderly  and  conciliatory  manner  toward 
the  Japanese  authorities  and  people."  The  pass- 
port was  granted  for  one  year.  I  did  not  return 
my  passport,  as  I  wished  to  retain  it  as  a  curious 
souvenir  of  my  Japanese  tour.  I  suppose  I  could 
not  procure  another  passport  should  I  revisit 
Japan,  not  having  returned  this  one ;  but  as  the 
requirement  of  a  passport  probably  will  be  modi- 
fied before  I  revisit  that  country,  1  did  not  feel 
greatly  concerned  regarding  the  return  of  this 
passport. 

Among  the  local  regulaiions  on  the  passports 
forbidding  certain  acts  are  the  following,  which 
arc  strictly  forbidden,  "  Attending  a  fire  on 
horseback."  If  there  is  anything  which  I  wanted 
to  do  in  Japan  it  was  to  attend  a  fire  on  horse- 
back. Of  this  privilege  I  never  have  availed 
myself  at  home,  and  of  course  I  wanted  to  enjoy 
it  in  Japan.  Another  prohibition  is  "scribbling 
on  temples,  shrines,  or  walls."  It  would  be  well 
if  this  prohibition  could  be  observed  in  every 
country.  There  are  ten  of  these  local  regula- 
tions, the  last  one  being,  "  lighting  fires  in  woods, 
or  on  hills,  or  moors."  My  Turkish  as  well  as 
my  American  passport  is  a  decided  curiosity. 
Both  are  so  covered  with  local  endorsements  as 
to  be  worthy  of  preservation  as  unique  souvenirs 
of  my  journey. 

Some  Japanese  Words. — Throngh  the  cour- 
tesy of  Rev.  A.  A.  Bennett,  of  Yokohama,  I  am 
able  to  preseiic  to  readers  some  Japancse.com- 


:;'■• 


ti.. 


i^-' 


japan's   PUOGRKSS  20I 

pounds  of  sha,  ineanin^r  vehicle  or  wheel  •    AV- 
s/ia  {or joki-s/ia\  nieaiiiiijr  steam-car  ;  jui-ri/ci-s/ia 
iiieaninc.  man-power  (yV;,,  man,  riki,  power,  s/ia\ 
wheel  or  carriage)  ;    da-s/ia,  meanin<r  any    car- 
nacre  drawn  by  a  horse  {ba)  ;  ^^yus/^a,  meaning 
ox-cart  (xyii,  ox) ;  sin-s/ia,  meaning  water-wheel 
{sm,  water)  ;  ji-tcn-sha,  meaning  self-revolvintr 
wheel  (y/-/.';/,  self-revolving),  as  velocipede,   bi- 
cycle,  etc.;  y^-^'J-^/.^,  meaning  self-working  car 
{do,    working,    as   an    inclined    plane;    Ji:>.,ha 
meaning  gim-carriage  {ho,  gun),  a  mounted  can- 
non ;  ^6^;^^'2.j/,^,    meaning    electric-car    (denki 
electric.  ^  ' 


,f 


;i, 


,r 


v.^  ' 


XVII 


n 


;! 


REUGIONS   AND    MORALS 

'  I  ^HE  Ainos  are  fetich-worshipers.     The  wo. 
L       ship  of  the  reproductive  powers  of  nature 
and  of  ancestors  has  a  lari;^e  place  in  their  idola- 
trous system.     These  beliefs  also  underlie  both 
Shintoisni  and  Buddhism. 


fr 


iin 


IT         1   i'i-'j    1 


u. 


m 


Native  Religion. — Shintoisni  was  the  ear- 
lier worship ;  it  is  now  the  State  religion. 
Buddhism  was  imported  from  India  by  way  of 
China  and  Korea.  There  are  nearly  two  hun- 
dred thousand  Shinto  shrines  and  temples  and 
wayside  chapels  of  all  grades.  The  Buddhist 
temples  are  more  marked  by  images  and  idola- 
trous observances.  Buddhism  was  introduced 
in  552  A.  D.,  from  Korea,  with  its  elaborate  sys- 
tem of  ethics,  ritual,  dogma,  and  scriptures.  It 
soon  threw  the  bald  system  of  Shinto  into  the 
shade. 

Kobo,  a  profound  scholar,  in  the  beginning  of 
the  ninth  century  devised  a  scheme  by  which 
the  older  religion  was  swallowed  up  by  the 
newer  faith.  He  gave  all  the  Shinto  deities 
Buddhist  names,  and  he  appointed  Buddhist 
liturgies  for  Shinto  feasts  and  festivals.  This 
new  system  turned  the  emperors  into  cloistered 


202 


i  V,J 


Kl'JvKllONS    ANH    MOKAI.S 


2<M 


[t 

le 


monks  and  the  empresses  into  nnns.  A  blow 
was  tlins  struck  at  Shintoism.  The  Rnddliists 
were  bridj^^c-buiklers,  road-makers,  scliolars,  and 
benefactors;  tliey  were  the  exponents  of  civili- 
zation and  the  fathers  of  literature.  From  the 
sixth  to  the  twelfth  century  is  the  missionary 
era  of  Japanese  Buddhism.  But  since  the  revo- 
lution of  1868  there  has  been  a  revival  of  Shin- 
toism, and  it  is  the  State  relij^ion  still.  Many, 
however,  do  not  know  what  "  ism  "  they  profess. 
They  are  indifferent  to  many  of  the  earlier  "  isms," 
and  are  in  dan<^er  of  falling  into  practical  athe- 
ism if  they  do  not  receive  the  gospel  of  Christ. 

There  has  been  an  improvement  in  the  morals 
of  the  people  since  the  political  revolution  of 
1868  and  the  introduction  of  Christianity.  But 
there  is  still  great  room  for  improvement.  There 
is  a  class  known  as  the  Eta,  who  are  considered 
outcasts  and  altogether  inhuman.  In  their  treat- 
ment of  this  class  the  Japanese  act  contrary  to 
the  principles  of  humanity. 

In  1888  there  was  over  one  divorce  to  every 
three  marriages.  So  long  as  this  state  of  things 
exists  true  progress  must  be  greatly  impeded. 
In  the  recent  volume  by  Doctor  Oriffis  on 
"  Townsend  Harris,  First  American  Envoy  to 
Japan,"  Mr.  Harris  says,  speaking  of  the  Japa- 
nese with  what,  we  hope,  is  some  unconscious 
exaggeration :  "  They  are  the  greatest  liars  on 
earth.  The  mendacity  of  these  men  passes  all 
human  belief.  They  never  hesitate  at  uttering 
a  falsehood,  even  where  the  truth  would  serve 
the  same  purpose."     Mr.  Harris  was  appointed 


:>/ 


p 


4 

Jr. 


r"  ^"ii 


m 


ai 


£V  • 


tw,  .J^ 


K'll^  ;J'* 


•  ■ 


(I    if' 
r  l1  V: 


i     \: 


l<'< 


'■\'- 


U 


204 


AKOUND    TIIK    WORLD 


minister  to  Japan  in  1859,  but  on  account  of  ill- 
health  resip^ned  in  1861.  He  was  a  very  able, 
and  in  many  ways  a  typical,  American.  He  did 
not  hesitate  sternly  to  rebuke  the  Japanese  en- 
voys because  of  their  deceptions.  He  died  in 
New  York,  February  25,  1878. 

Lack  of  Morality. — The  most  intelligent 
and  patriotic  men  in  Japan  fully  realize  that 
moral  soundness  is  necessary  to  all  true  and 
permanent  progress.  Hence  efforts  have  been 
made  to  remove  many  of  the  moral  eyesores  of 
the  earlier  heathen  days.  Visitors  to  Japan  to- 
day see  much  which  shocks  their  sense  of  mod- 
esty, but  they,  and  even  the  new  generation  of 
Japanese,  can  scarcely  believe  in  the  existence 
of  the  sights  so  familiar  to  the  first  missionaries 
in  that  land.  The  grossness  of  the  immorality 
of  that  day  is  now  almost  incredible.  The  most 
attractive  portions  of  great  cities  were  those 
given  up  to  the  worst  forms  of  vice.  Girls  were, 
and  to  some  degree  still  are,  sold  as  slaves.  Evil 
was  publicly  exhibited  ;  the  most  shameful  ex- 
hibitions were  utterly  shameless.  The  most  in- 
decent shrines  were  numerous  along  the  roads 
in  many  provinces  ;  the  most  vulgar  representa- 
tions were  wrought  into  candy,  porcelain,  and 
faience.  At  temple  festivals  the  grossest  em- 
blems were  publicly  carried  in  parades.  The 
!nost  abominable  performances  were  observed  as 
a  part  of  idolatrous  processions. 

It  is  authoritatively  affirmed  that  much  of  the 
popular  literature  of  the  time  was  utterly  unfit 


RHUGIONS   AND    MORALS 


205 


for  publication.  The  exposures  going  to  and 
returning  from  the  public  baths  are  almost  in- 
credible, and  they  are  still  occasionally  seen.  It 
is  quite  true  that  we  ought  not  to  judge  them 
by  our  standards,  as  many  of  our  ideas  of  pro- 
priety depend  upon  training  and  conventional- 
ism, but  judged  by  any  standard,  these  exposures 
were  as  objectionable  as  they  are  incredible. 
Perhaps  the  admittedly  common  practice  of 
lying,  often  so  needless,  was  due  in  part  to  the 
despotism  and  espionage  of  the  feudal  system, 
now  happily  passed  away. 

The  disregard  for  human  life,  the  unquaran- 
tined  small-pox  patients  roaming  freely  about, 
the  miserable  class  called  the  Eta  often  cut  down 
by  the  swords  of  the  Samurai  so  that  dead  men 
often  lay  in  the  public  highways,  the  horribly 
diseased  who  lay  in  wayside  huts,  the  many 
victims  of  nameless  diseases,  these  all  were 
characteristic  of  the  old  days  of  heathenism  in 
Japan.  To  help  a  man  who  was  an  Eta  or  a 
Haimin,  even  if  he  were  drowning,  was  the  ex- 
ception rather  than  the  rule  in  the  pre-Christian 
days.  The  ancient  disqualifications  on  other 
religions  than  Buddhism  ■•vere  removed  in  187 1. 
Then  idolatry,  immorality,  and  fearful  diseases 
went  hand  in  hand.  Even  children  were  famil- 
iar with  the  saddest  sides  of  human  life  and  sin. 
The  distinguished  Doctor  Verbeck  says  that 
probably  immorality  is  a  more  formidable  ob- 
stacle to  the  progress  of  missions  than  idolatry 
considered  in  itself. 

The  fact  is, — and  the  sooner  all  recognize  it 


if 


1 


■  if 


*i 


"M 1^ 


206 


AKOUNl)    TIIH    WORMD 


the  better, — idolatry  in  Japan,  China,  India,  and 
throu<i^hont  the  world,  is  organized  impurity. 
There  can  be  no  j^ennine  and  permanent  <i^ro\vtli 
for  Japan  until  Christianity  is  practically  the 
religion  of  the  country.  Heathenism  is  vile, 
j^ross,  brutal,  vulo;ar,  cruel,  and  altogether  abom- 
inable. It  may  be  dressed  up  for  exhibition  at 
the  Parliament  of  Religions  in  Chicago,  but  at 
its  home  it  is  unfit  for  exhibition,  and  in  many 
of  its  features  is  unfit  for  discussion.  Japan  has 
greatly  improved  even  by  adopting  some  of  the 
outward  signs  of  Christian  civilization.  But 
nnfortunately  Japan  is  not  yet  Christianized  ;  it 
is  not  even  evangelized.  Its  progress  has  been 
chiefly  on  the  material  side  of  civilization.  It 
has  adopted  Western  ideas  of  commerce  and  war, 
but  it  has  not  yet  discarded  its  false  gods.  A 
heathenism  as  gross  as  that  of  Hinduism  in 
India  is  still  prevalent.  The  deadly  microbes  of 
heathen  belief  have  not  yet  been  destroyed,  and 
they  are  poisoning  the  vitals  of  the  nation. 

Work  ok  Protestant  Missionaries. — By 
the  Townsend  Harris  treaty,  July  29,  1858,  cer- 
tain ports  were  opened  July  4,  1859.  Imme- 
diately the  Reformed,  Episcopal,  and  Pres- 
byterian Churches  availed  themselves  of  this 
opportunity.  J.  C.  Hepburn,  M.  d.,  afterward 
the  famous  lexicographer,  who  represented  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  arrived  October  18  at 
Kanagawa,  near  Yokohama.  Dr.  Verbeck,  re- 
presenting the  Reformed  Church,  arrived  Novem- 
ber 7,  at  Nagasaki.     Three  missions  were  estab- 


I 


RKIJOION.S   AND    MORALS 


207 


Hslicd  before  January  i,  i860.  Rev.  John  IJ^- 
^ins  and  Rev.  i).  M.  Williams  represented  the 
Kpiseopal  Church.  April  i,  1S60,  Rev.  Jon. 
(ioble  and  wife,  and  the  Japanese  Sentaro,  the 
former  a  marine  and  the  latter  a  waif  in  Com- 
modore Ferry's  squadron,  were  sent  out  by  the 
American  Baptist  Free  Mission  Society.  P'or 
ten  years,  with  but  few  accessions,  these  four 
American  missions  occupied  the  field.  Some  of 
the  workers  on  account  of  ill-health  were  oblig^ed 
to  abandon  their  posts.  Dr.  Hepburn,  in  1862, 
settled  at  Yokohama  doin^  dispensary  and  lexi- 
cographic work.  Rev.  David  Thompson  joined 
the  missionaries  in  1863,  and  has  long  been 
active  as  a  missionary  in  Tokyo.  In  1869  Dr. 
Verbeck  went  to  Tokyo  to  organize  a  national 
scheme  of  education  and  to  be  at  the  head  of 
the  Imperial  University.  In  1872  an  embassy 
was  organized  to  go  around  the  world  to  study 
Western  civilization,  and  half  its  members  had 
been  Dr.  Verbeck's  pupils.  Eternity  only  can 
show  the  full  results  of  Dr.  Verbeck's  great 
work. 

In  August,  1869,  Miss  Mary  Kidder,  now  Mrs. 
E.  R.  Miller,  arrived  in  Yokohama.  She  was 
the  first  unmarried  lady  missionary  going  directly 
to  Japan  from  America.  In  1869  the  Church  of 
England  organized  work  at  Nagasaki ;  and  in 
1870  the  American  Board  began  a  work  in  Kobe. 
1872  was  the  year  in  which  the  harvest  began. 
On  March  10  of  that  year,  the  first  Christian 
church  was  organized  at  Yokohama.  Rev. 
Messrs.  J.  H.  Ballagh,  0.  H.  Gulick,  J.  B.  Davis, 


I 


"^1.1 


A    ,' 


4 


i«  * 


r 


If.-- 


! 


1,1,1 


'    it- 


I 


^  'K 


If^ 


H! 


2o8 


AROUND   THK    WORM) 


M.  L.  (ionlon,  and  Dr.  licny  and  tlicir  wives 
were  leaders  in  the  work.  In  October,  1872,  the 
Woman's  Union  Missionary  vSociety  established 
a  home  in  Yokohama.  Abont  a  year  after  the 
orjj^anization  of  the  first  Christian  ehnreh,  the 
j»;overnment  abolished  the  Innarand  adopted  the 
solar  calendar  of  Christendom. 

Then  followinjr  the  removal  of  the  anti-Chris- 
tian edicts,  the  retnrn  of  the  em])assy  from  its 
tour  around  the  world,  the  organization  of  a 
New  Testament  Translation  Committee,  and  the 
arrival  of  a  large  force  of  missionaries.  Until 
the  spring  of  1872  only  ten  natives  had  been  bap- 
tized. The  first  church  organized  was  the  direct 
outgrowth  of  the  earnest  observance  of  the  week 
of  prayer,  the  meetings  of  which  had  been  pro- 
longed to  the  last  of  Februarv.  The  book  of 
the  Acts  had  been  daily  studied,  and  the  prayers 
of  the  Japanese  for  Japan  were  so  earnest  as  to 
stir  the  hearts  of  all  the  missionaries. 

Difficulties  of  the  Missionaries. — The 
first  missionaries  were  objects  of  intense  suspi- 
cion. All  Japanese  who  communicated  with 
them  were  also  suspected.  The  first  teachers  of 
the  missionaries  were  practically  official  spies ; 
and  the  missionaries  were  supposed  to  have  come 
to  corrupt  the  morals  and  to  decrease  the  loyalty 
of  the  people.  The  most  abominable  stories 
were  told  against  the  character  and  purpose 
of  the  missionaries.  They  were  charged  with 
being  sorcerers ;  even  in  the  treaty  ports  they 
were  closely  confined  to  the  treaty  limits,  and 


LM 


;»iii 


T  „■- 


ti .'  ] 


;  I 


RKMC.IONS    AND    MORALS 


209 


were  constantly  in  danj^tr  of  incendiarism  and 
assassination.  Many  of  their  opposcrs  had 
l)tlonj;ed  to  the  Sanuirai  class,  bnt  had  degen- 
erated into  infnriated  rnffians.  vSonie  of  the 
lej^ations  were  even  attacked. 

These  opponents  of  all  forei<;ners  claimed  to 
be  acting  from  patriotic  motives.  They  rev- 
erenced the  mikado.  The\'  desired  to  embroil 
the  tycoon,  by  whom  treaties  were  made  with 
f()rei<^ners ;  and  thas  they  wonld  assist  the 
mikado  in  his  desire  to  secnre  a  retnrn  of  liis 
ancient  snpremacy.  Their  cry  was,  "  I^xpel  the 
foreij^ner,"  but  their  real  purpose  was  to  hasten 
the  revolution  which  came  in  i86(S,  and  so  has- 
ten the  larger  liberty  wdiich  now  is  enjoyed. 
Neither  missionaries  nor  diplomats  could  see 
then,  as  we  do  now,  the  ultimate  purpose  of  those 
who  then  opposed  them.  But  the  missionaries 
toiled  on.  Soon  they  dispelled  suspicion,  con- 
ciliated the  hatred  of  their  foes,  removed  the 
ignorance  of  all,  and  so  manifested  the  spirit  of 
Christ  as  to  win  the  respect  of  all  classes. 

Soon  the  temper  of  the  people  was  changed, 
like  the  climate  from  January  to  June.  Mr. 
Liggins,  of  the  Episcopal  Church,  Dr.  Nathan 
Brown,  of  the  Baptist,  and  Dr.  Hepburn,  of  the 
Presbyterian  Church,  had  done  good  work  in 
making  translations.  Educated  Japanese  could 
read  the  Bible  in  the  Chinese  version.  The 
Bible  was  translated  into  Japanese  in  1887  after 
many  trials  and  great  labors.  Mrs.  Hepburn, 
Miss  Kidder  and  Mr.  and  Mrs.  Carrothers,  and 
Mrs.  Pruyn  did  excellent  work  in  teaching  the 

o 


11 


1 1* 


M 


Ui 


h  Hi', 


2IO 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


young , 


r'^ 


and  Dr.  Hepburn  was  disarming  preju- 
dice by  his  skill  in  medicine  as  well  as  his  ear- 
nestness in  Christianity.  All  these  influences 
helped  also  to  keep  reasonably  pure  the  social 
life  of  the  European  Christians,  who  though 
professing  Christianity  were  in  danger  of  the 
evils  arising  from  constant  association  with 
heathenism.  The  earlier  missionaries  worked 
long  in  a  darkness  illuminated  only  by  the  power 
of  God  and  the  light  from  the  cross. 

Up  to  1890. — During  the  eighteen  years 
from  1872  to  1890  wonderful  progress  was  made. 
The  Doshisha  College  was  established  in  Ky- 
oto by  the  celebrated  Neesima,  in  1875,  and 
fifteen  young  men  were  graduated  from  the 
theological  department  in  1879.  ^^^  1889  the 
first  bishop  of  the  English  Church,  Dr.  Poole, 
was  appointed  ;  the  present  bishop  of  that  church 
is  Dr.  Bickersteth,  who  lives  in  Tokyo.  Since 
1877  the  churches  of  the  Presbyterian  polity 
have  been  united  in  one  general  body.  There 
now  are  more  than  seventy  churches  under  the 
Presbyterian  polity,  and  of  these  three  are  self- 
supporting.  In  no  country  has  woman's  work 
for  women  been  more  general  and  helpful.  The 
Baptists  began  work  under  J.  Goble,  in  i860 ; 
eleven  years  later  Dr.  Nathan  Brown  began  his 
great  work.  His  version  of  the  entire  New  Tes- 
tament was  published  in  1880.  The  Baptists  in 
1895  had  about  forty  preaching  stations,  includ- 
ing places  where  ^Missionaries  visit,  but  do  not 
reside.     All  our  Baptist  workers  strive  to  develop 


*»■■. 


■i 

I 


^^e-__:-:^_ 


years 
made. 
11  Ky- 
5,  and 
n    the 
59  the 
Poole, 
ihiirch 
[Since 
Dolity 
here 
the 
self- 
work 
The 
860; 
n  his 
Tes- 
sts  in 
cliid- 
11  ot 
velop 


1 


\ 


REUGIONS   AND    MORALS 


211 


the  idea  of  self-support.  The  First  Baptist 
Church  in  Yokohama  was  organized  IMarcli  2, 
1873,  and  the  first  in  Tokyo,  May  14,  1S76. 

The  Disciples  of  Clirist  began  their  work  in 
1883  ;  in  1895  they  had  about  ten  stations.  The 
Christian  Church  of  America  is  also  in  the  field. 
The  Congregationalists  have  many  earnest  and 
successful  workers.  They  man  two  churches  in 
ten  cities  and  have  preached  at  nearly  one  hun- 
dred and  seventy  outstations.  They  began  in 
1869  at  Kobe  with  Rev.  and  Mrs.  C.  D.  Greene, 
and  have  spread  out  with  great  rapidity.  They 
have  not  been  without  their  troubles,  but  it  is 
lioped  that  divisions  may  cease  and  harmony 
prevail.  They  have  had  some  remarkable  native 
workers,  and  also  a  number  of  journalists  and 
other  men  of  scholarship  and  literary  influ- 
ence. Rev.  W.  H.  Noyes  and  wife  labored 
under  the  auspices  of  the  Berkeley  Temple, 
Boston.  But  few  independent  native  churches 
have  yet  been  formed. 

There  are  five  groups  of  Methodist  missions, 
the  largest  of  which  is  the  American  Methodi.st 
Episcopal  Church,  which  began  work  in  1872, 
under  the  leadership  of  Rev.  R.  S.  Maclay,  a 
veteran  from  Foochow,  China.  They  have 
reached  both  extremes  of  the  empire,  and  have 
many  excellent  lay  workers  and  Bible  women. 
The  Canada  Methodist  Episcopal  Church  and 
other  branches  of  Methodism  have  several  sta- 
tions and  energetic  workers. 

The  Society  of  Friends,  the  Christian  Alliance, 
the   American  Unitarians,  formerly  represented 


212 


AROUND    THK    world 


ji'. 


'I 


^^'% 


by  Rev.  Arthur  Knapp,  in  Tokyo,  the  American 
Universalists,  represented  by  Rev.  George  Pcrrin 
and  others  wlio  labor  in  Tokyo,  the  Bible  so- 
cieties, tract  societies — all  have  their  repre- 
sentatives in  this  hopeful  empire.  Great  unity 
marks  the  labors  of  all  these  bodies  of  Christian 
workers.  The  American  and  Scotch  Presby- 
terians work  together ;  so  do  also  American  and 
English  Episcopalians. 

The  majority  in  all  the  cluirches  are  young  men. 
Time  will  equalize  the  proportion  of  the  sexes 
and  ages.  Great  practical  questions  must  soon 
be  discussed — the  Sunday  question,  temperance, 
morals,  etc.  On  Sunday  the  government  ceases 
its  labors,  but  the  day  is  not  observed  as  n  !ioly 
day.  Efforts  are  being  made  to  purify  liteiature 
of  its  cruel,  revengeful,  and  licentious  elements ; 
and  in  all  these  endeavors  several  flourishing 
Young  Men's  Christian  Associations  are  render- 
ing excellent  service. 


■i 


■  I 


1 1. 


[IS 


►i: 


XVIII 

PECULIARITIES  OF   JAPAN 

MANY  tilings  were  witnessed  and  carefully 
considered  in  the  visit  to  Japan  which 
there  is  not  space  to  describe,  but  a  few  general 
observations  seem  to  be  in  place  as  Japan  is  now 
left  behind. 


Cheap  Living. — Living  in  Japan  is  cheap. 
Expenses  in  any  city  or  country  are  largely 
what  one  chooses  to  make  them,  but  there  are 
some  expenses  common  to  all  persons  which  will 
serve  to  illustrate  the  scale  of  prices.  Here  is  a 
laundry  bill  of  one  dozen  pieces,  of  which  six 
are  shirts  of  various  styles.  The  work  was  done 
promptly  and  excellently.  What  was  the  amount 
of  the  bill?  The  figures  are  given  in  gold  or 
American  money  ;  the  bill  reached  the  enormous 
sum  of  fifteen  cents.  Surely  there  is  no  excuse 
for  not  having  frequent  changes  of  linen  while 
traveling  in  Japan.  In  Yokohama  the  foreign 
hotels  are  like  leadxng  hotels  in  Europe.  At 
the  Grand  the  charge  is  in  gold  about  two  dol- 
lars and  fifty  cents,  at  tlie  Club  a])out  two  dollars, 
and  at  the  Clarendon  one  dollar  and  twenty-five 
cents  to  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  per  day,  and 
everything  included  in   each  case.     I  tried  the 

ai3 


(' 


i  \ 


214 


AROUND   T1II<:    WORLD 


*.^l'' 


li  .t 


Mi 


;(• 


ill' 

■■h\ 


last  two  named  and  I  vvonld  prefer  the  Clarendon, 
even  if  the  prices  were  the  same.  Here  a  room 
was  occnpied  which  was  twenty  by  thirty  feet, 
with  two  large  windows  opening  on  a  veranda, 
the  meals  were  excellent  and  tlie  service  was 
good.  It  is  a  private  hotel,  kept  by  Mrs.  Stani- 
land,  a  worthy  Englishwoman. 

At  Nikko,  up  among  the  grand  mountains 
and  the  glorious  trees  and  near  the  terraced  hills 
crowned  by  temples,  prices  in  the  hotels  are 
from  one  dollar  and  fifty  cents  to  two  dollars 
and  fifty  cents  in  gold  per  day.  Here,  as  in  most 
of  the  leading  hotels,  the  vv^aiters  are  little 
Japanese  men  in  black  tights  and  some  style 
of  sandal,  but  in  some  hotels  the  waiters  are 
young  women.  They  arc  quick,  intelligent,  and 
willing.  Europeans — which  term  includes  all 
wlio  are  not  natives — expect  to  pay  more  than 
natives  at  these  hotels.  Perhaps  they  ought  to 
pay  more ;  they  demand  a  greater  variety  of 
food  and  vastly  more  attention.  If  one  were 
willing  to  put  up  with  what  he  gets  at  a  genu- 
ine Japanese  country  hotel,  sleeping  on  the  floor 
with  a  wooden  pillow,  making  his  toilet  at  a 
pump  or  using  a  common  basin,  and  eating 
Japanese  food,  he  could  live  for  a  mere  trifle. 

Mosquitoes  and  fleas  are  among  the  trials  of 
Japan,  and  especially  of  Japanese  hotels  ;  but  a 
flea  bag,  a  sheet  so  stitched  as  to  cover  the  body 
and  the  arms  and  to  tie  with  a  drawing  string 
around  the  neck,  will  lessen  the  discomfort  of 
the  one  pest,  and  a  properly  adjusted  mosquito 
net  over  the  bed  will   entirely  prevent  annoy- 


m 


■>\ 


\\ 


V    I 


M 


PHCUIJARITIKS   OK   JAPAN 


215 


lareiuloii, 
e  a  room 
lirty  feet, 
veranda, 
vice  was 
rs.  Staiii- 

louhtains 
iced  hills 
3tels   are 
D  dollars 
>  in  most 
ire   little 
ne   style 
iters  are 
l^ent,  and 
udes  all 
3re  than 
3nght  to 
riety  of 
lie  were 
a  genu- 
he  floor 
let  at  a 
eating 
Irifle. 
rials  of 
,  bnt  a 
e  body 
string 
bfort  of 
>sqnito 
annoy- 


ance from  the  other  pest.  The  mosqnitoes  were 
vastly  worse  in  Honolnln  ;  often  they  are  worse 
in  New  Jersey.  From  neither  of  these  pests — 
and  to  both  I  am  peculiarly  sensitive — was  there 
really  any  discomfort  worth  mentioning.  Had 
there  been  a  sojourn  in  a  genuine  native  hotel 
a  different  report  probably  would  have  to  be 
made.  Our  missionaries  often  suffer  seriously 
from  the  wicked  flea,  which  flees  indeed,  but 
bites  nevertheless.  Many  missionaries  carry 
some  sort  of  flea  bag  with  them,  and  also  various 
powders  and  lotions,  while  on  their  journeys 
through  country  districts. 

Speaking  of  low  prices^  I  have  learned  that  a 
man  and  his  wife  can  be  secured  as  servants,  he 
deciding  on  the  mcnu^  making  the  purchases 
and  cooking  the  food,  and  she  being  waitress 
and  maid  of  all  work,  and  they  "  finding  "  them- 
selves, for  the  enormous  sum  per  month  for  both 
of  six  to  seven  dollars  in  gold.  Think  of  that, 
ye  lordly  Hibernians,  with  your  brogue  and  bro- 
gans,  who  condescend  to  reign  in  our  humble 
American  homes.  Truly,  the  United  States, 
whatever  the  cause  may  be,  is  the  paradise  of 
workingmen  and  women. 

Think  of  buying  an  outfit,  consisting  of  bath- 
room kimono,  socks  with  the  sep£.rate  great  toe, 
a  sash,  or  obi^  and  sandals,  for  one  dollar  and 
twenty-five  cents.  A  Japanese  young  man  or 
woman  of  the  working  class  could  dress  well  for 
fifty  cents ;  some  of  them  probably  dress  for 
twent^'-five  cents.  But  going  a  few  steps  higher, 
a  good  outfit  can   certainly  be  secured  for  two 


'I' 


\  'i 


2l6 


AROUND   TIIK    WORLD 


r 


IW*    f 


{)' 


M  ■  If' 


fit,  '■ 


.Pi 


I 


k 


Hi 


B  . 


t. 


f, 


T  :.ii: 


dollars,  or  even  somewhat  less.  The  daily  news- 
papers printed  in  English  are  a  marked  excep- 
tion to  these  low  prices.  The  "  Japan  Mail  "  is 
warmly  pro-Japanese,  and  the  "  Japan  Gazette  " 
is  vigorously  anti-Japanese.  Both  are  sprightly 
and  ambitious.  They  contain,  however,  but 
little  reading  matter,  and  each  costs  about  four- 
teen cents.  A  morning  newspaper  at  this  price 
is  a  veritable  luxury.  Of  course  the  circulation 
of  these  papers  is  small,  but  if  the  prices  were 
smaller  the  circulation  would  be  much  larger. 

Europeans  have  to  pay  at  nearly  all  the  shops 
much  higher  prices  than  natives.  Time  is  a 
small  object  in  the  Orient.  A  shopkeeper  will 
chaffer  long  over  a  few  cents,  and  he  will  ask 
often  twice  as  much  as  he  finally  will  take.  It 
is  humiliating  to  make  purchases  after  this 
fashion,  but  if  you  do  not  dicker  you  will  be 
cheated.  Some  shops  now  have  adopted  the 
one  price  system,  but  in  any  case  when  you  get 
the  lowest  price  most  things  are  cheap.  Labor 
is  cheap ;  humanity  is  cheap.  Men,  women, 
and  children  work  in  factories  for  a  song.  Chris- 
tianity gives  dignity  to  labor,  nobility  to  man- 
hood, honor  to  womanhood,  and  protection  to 
childhood.     All  these  things  Japan  much  needs. 

Diminutive  People. — The  Japanese,  as  is 
well  known,  are  very  small.  It  seems  almost 
certain  that  the  habit  of  sitting  on  their  heels 
for  centuries  has  shortened  their  legs.  Their 
shortness  is  in  their  legs  rather  than  in  their 
bodies.     But  although  the  army,  officials  gen- 


PPXUIJARITIKS   Ol'    JAPAN 


217 


erally,  and  many  others  have  adopted  Kiuopcan 
dress  and  many  other  European  customs,  it  is 
still  difficult  for  the  people  to  learn  to  sit  on 
chairs  or  seats  of  any  kind  unless  they  sit  in 
some  way  on  their  feet.  In  European  homes 
they  will  slip  off  the  chairs,  with  the  apology  in 
winter  that  their  feet  and  limbs  are  cold  and 
some  other  apolo<^y  in  sumi  .er,  and  drop  on 
their  heels  on  the  floor.  It  is  interesting^-  to  see 
a  man  and  his  wife  enter  a  railway  car.  They 
slip  off  their  sandals,  put  them  partly  under  tlie 
seat,  jump  up  on  the  seat,  oracefully  adjust  their 
kimonos  and  squat  on  the  seat  facinj^  each  other. 
Soon  both  will  have  their  little  pipes  filled  with 
tobacco,  the  pipe  holdincr  about  enough  tobacco 
for  half  a  dozen  puffs.  The  puffs  are  taken,  tlie 
pipes  refilled,  and  the  process  repeated  a  few 
times,  but  they  never  seem  to  smoke  much. 
One  wonders  why  the  pipe  is  not  made  bigger 
if  the  smoker  must  have  more  than  one  pipe- 
ful. 

Probably  the  habit,  and  especially  the  method, 
of  carrying  the  children  on  the  backs  of  their 
mothers  and  of  their  still  little  brothers  and  sis- 
ters, has  something  to  do  with  the  size  and  form 
of  their  bodies.  This  practice  may  account  for 
crooked  legs  and  curved  forms.  The  American 
Indians  show  greater  wisdom  in  their  method  of 
carrying  their  children.  The  Japanese  babies, 
while  canied,  have  no  proper  support  for  back, 
head  or  legs.  Often  they  are  sound  asleep  while 
carried,  and  their  heads  fall  backward  or  side- 
wise   while   the   scorching   sun   falls   on   their 


ll 


if  V 

■41 

4  »). 


i; 


i^''H- 


1i  '^f* 


li  -' 


^^  '  If' : 


•J  I 


i'. 


!  1^ 


/( 


ili 


I, 

h\ 


2l8 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


unprotected  heads  and  faces.  It  is  often  a  won- 
der that  their  brains  are  not  roasted.  Many  of 
the  little  mothers  are  mere  children.  One  such 
rowed  me  to  a  steamer  the  other  day.  Her  babe 
was  asleep  in  the  little  cabin  of  the  boat ;  the 
mother  was  herself  only  a  child.  The  babe 
awoke ;  the  mother  stopped  rowing,  attended  to 
its  needs  in  various  ways,  then  strapped  it  on 
her  back  and  good-naturedly  resumed  her  oar, 
the  babe  in  the  meantime  looking  wonderingly 
at  the  stranger.  Japan  must  give  additional 
honor  to  women  if  the  nation  is  to  have  a  high 
place  among  the  great  nations  of  the  earth.  No 
people  can  be  great  unless  they  have  great  and 
good  mothers.  Japan  at  this  time  of  her  mar- 
velous history  cannot  afford  to  dwarf  her  people, 
to  dishonor  her  women,  and  so  her  men. 

Practically  Slaves. — There  is  a  class  of 
women  who  are  practically  slaves.  This  gen- 
eral class  will  suggest  to  all  thinking  persons 
most  difficult  problems  in  all  countries.  It  is 
really  a  question  of  fallen  human  nature.  Japan 
has  adopted  a  method  of  treating  this  unfortu- 
nate class,  of  controlling  the  social  vice,  which 
is  practised  in  many  cities  of  several  countries 
and  which  now  has  been  advocated  in  other 
countries.  Of  course  this  is  not  the  place  for 
any  broad  discussion  of  the  question,  but  in 
Japan  the  system  adopted  results  in  most  griev- 
ous social  debasement.  It  cannot  be  passed  over 
in  these  concluding  notes  without  some  slight 
notice.     The  traffic  in  question  has  legal  sanc^ 


t  ti' 


Ii 


\'! 


I 


M 


; 


PKCULIARITIKS   OK   JAPAN 


19 


tion  in  Vienna,  in  Paris,  and  in  some  other 
cities  ;  but  it  is  peculiarly  abominable  when  con- 
trasted with  many  of  the  peaceful,  gentle,  and 
courteous  aspects  of  Japanese  domestic  life.  It 
would  be  easy  to  name  cities  in  Japan  in  which 
there  are  public  establishments  whose  young 
women  are  as  truly  slaves  as  are  the  Caucasian 
girls  who  are  bought  and  sold  for  Turkish  ha- 
rems. In  Japan  some  parents  sell  their  daugh- 
ters when  mere  children  to  be  sacrificed  on  the 
altar  of  sin.  Lately  efforts  were  made  to  get 
a  student  in  one  of  our  schools  for  this  purpose. 
These  girls  are  formally  registered  and  officially 
degraded  and  sacrificed.  It  is  a  terrible  subject. 
God  save  the  women  of  Japan,  of  America,  of 
the  world !  May  all  races  be  saved,  exalted,  and 
divinized ! 


^:\ 


Politeness. — Politeness  is  second  nature  to 
the  Japanese.  Very  young  children  are  taught 
to  manif'ist  civility  and  to  show  respect.  The 
spirit  of  courtesy  marks  prince  and  coolie  alike. 
Villages  are  often  excited  with  curiosity  as  they 
see  strangers,  but  their  curiosity  is  natural  in 
the  presence  of  foreigners,  whose  ways  are  to 
them  so  novel.  Professor  Chamberlain  says : 
"  Many  travelers  irritate  the  Japanese  by  talk- 
ing and  acting  as  if  they  thought  Japan  and  her 
customs  were  a  sort  of  peep-show,  set  up  for  for- 
eigners to  gape  at."  In  many  respects  we  might 
well  imitate  the  example  of  gentle  behavior 
and  of  cordial  good  nature  set  us  by  the  Japanese. 

Their  salutations  are   extraordinary.     Some- 


:1^ 


■  .1  -^1 


220 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


times  they  are  profound,  deliberate,  and  even 
majestic.  On  the  deck  of  our  steamer  two 
Japanese  men  in  mature  life  and  in  j^ood  cir- 
cumstances were  parting.  They  bowed  almost 
to  the  deck,  bowed  repeatedly,  and  remained 
bowed  for  a  considerable  time.  It  was  fortunate 
for  them  that  the  boat  was  not  ready  to  start 
else  both  would  have  been  carried  away.  In  a 
village  I  saw  a  young  man  kneel  on  the  floor 
before  a  man  who  was  presumably  a  local  magis- 
trate and  touch  the  matting  several  times  with 
his  forehead.  I  have  been  frequently  discon- 
certed at  our  schools  for  girls  and  in  meeting 
our  church-niembers  because  of  their  prostra- 
tions and  other  salutations.  There  is  danger 
that  this  will  minister  to  European  pride  and  to 
an  unchristian  spirit  of  caste.  It  is  said  that 
two  coolies,  each  carrying  two  heavy  baskets  of 
fruit  on  bamboo  poles  on  their  shoulders,  ran 
against  each  other  on  the  street  and  spilled  their 
fruit  in  every  direction.  For  a  moment  they 
looked  at  each  other  aghast,  and  conflicting  emo- 
tions seemed  to  strive  for  the  mastery.  Then 
they  bowed  low  and  often  to  each  other  and 
went  to  work  with  a  will,  each  helping  the 
other  to  gather  up  the  fruit.  Indeed,  it  is  said 
that,  strictly  speaking,  profanity  is  foreign  to 
their  language.  Unfortunately,  Europeans  and 
"Christians"  are  teaching  these  people  both 
vulgarity  and  profanity. 

The  vanity  of  the  women  seems  to  manifest 
itself  in  attention  to  their  dark  and  abundant 
hair.     It  is  dressed  elaborately.     Saturated  with 


v\ 


^ 


<< : 


PKCn.IARITlKS   OI«    JAPA>^ 


2il 


1 1' 


,  ran 

their 

they 

emo- 

hen 

and 

the 

said 

n  to 

and 

oth 

if  est 

lant 

kith 


pomade,  it  is  worked  up  into  all  sorts  of  shapes, 
made  sometimes  to  look  like  a  bird  with  out- 
spreading wiiij^s.  One  drt-ssinj^  will  last  for 
several  days,  the  wooden  pillows  on  whieh  they 
rest  their  heads  at  nij^^ht  not  serionsly  distnrb- 
in<r  the  dressiii^:.  The  head  is  always  nncov- 
ered,  the  thick  hair  beinj^  snffieient  protection. 
The  same  is  trne  in  part  of  the  men.  The  only 
ornaments  the  women  wear  are  their  flashinj^ 
hair-pins.  The  women  are  polite  as  well  as  the 
men,  bnt  their  training,  their  sense  of  inferiority, 
makes  them  timid,  shrinking,  and  diffident. 
They  are  interesting  in  their  native  dress.  Some 
of  them,  according  to  their,  and  even  onr,  stand- 
ard, are  pretty.  They  look  like  bnndles  of 
goods,  bnt  the  common  working  woman  is  very 
common-looking  indeed.  What  a  noise  a  train- 
load  of  Japanese  make  as  they  shnffle,  clatter, 
and  rattle  over  the  pavement  when  a  train  dis- 
charges its  occnpants. 

Japanese  women  in  European  garments  are 
utterly  out  of  place.  Then  they  are  completely 
disillusionized;  then  they  are  brought  into  com- 
parison with  our  noblest  women,  greatly  to  the 
disadvantage  of  the  Japanese.  Their  curved 
figures  cannot  stand  European  clothes;  their 
turned-in  toes  may  be  modest  and  perhaps  in  a 
way  graceful,  as  they  grip  with  them  their  clat- 
tering sandals.  But  in  boots  and  dresses  let 
Japanese  women  never  appear.  If  they  are  wise 
they  will  never  make  the  attempt.  But  let  all 
dare  what  many  are  now  daring,  not  to  ])lacken 
their   teeth   and   shave   their    eyebrows.     This 


l^i 


\\i: 


w: 


', 


<  - 


r  1 


.  r 


t,i  M 


'.       t' 


i| 


.1        . 


? 


222 


AROI'NI)   Tills   WOULD 


practice  makes  tlieni  hideous.  What  a  horrible 
coinmentary  on  the  nation  it  is  that  the  onl)' 
way  a  married  woman  can  be  trusted  is  l)y 
makin;^  herself  abominably  uj^ly.  One  would 
tliink  she  would  like  to  l)e  attractive  for  her 
liusband's  sake  ;  one  would  think  that  he  would 
like  to  have  her  so,  alike  for  his  sake  and  hers. 

It  is  said  that  Japanese  politeness  is  like  their 
famous  lacquer-work,  only  on  the  outside  ;  per- 
haps this  is  larj^ely  .so.  lUit  better  politeness 
than  rudeness  in  any  case.  I  can  well  under- 
derstand  that  many  Japanese  are  shocked  at  the 
rou^h  and  ready  ways  of  many  Americans. 
Really,  we  might  well  learn  lessons  from  them 
in  regard  to  politeness.  The  Golden  Rule  given 
by  Christ  formulates  the  true  spirit  of  courtesy, 
and  is  the  highest  law  of  etiquette.  I  have  seen 
in  some  of  o'jr  missionaries  distinct  traces  c*"  the 
influence  of  Japanese  politeness.  Politenc  ■;  a 
Christian  virtue  in  whatever  people  .  ...id. 
Nothing  is  more  certain  than  that  our  Lord,  in 
all  the  noblest  senses  of  the  term,  was  a  "  gen- 
tleman." 

JapanEvSR  Handicaps. — In  a  recent  speech  to 
students,  Lieutenant  Viscount  Soga  pointed  out 
some  difficulties  now  before  Japan  in  the  great 
international  competition  on  which  she  has  en- 
tered. There  is,  first,  the  handicap  imposed  on 
her  students  by  the  clumsy  ideographs  of  the 
written  Japanese  language.  We  know  that  the 
Japanese  have  natural  intelligence,  though  her 
students   who   have   come   to   America  are,   of 


i 


W  ■ '■^'' 


>        s 


pi-:cri,iARiTn':s  or  japan 


223 


:lito 
out 

rreat 
eii- 
011 
the 
the 
her 

,   of 


course,  picked  students.  Tliey  certaiuly  have 
won  their  full  sliare  of  honors  in  our  hij^hcst 
seliools  of  learning.  Hut  their  own  lan<;uaj;e  is 
a  serious  drawback  to  them  as  well  as  to  all  our 
missionaries.  In  a  recent  article  in  a  Japanese 
paper,  referrinj>;  to  the  address  to  which  I  have 
alluded,  it  is  pointed  out  that  the  four  thousand 
characters  in  the  language  must  be  mastered 
before  a  student  can  read  an  ordinary  newspaper, 
and  it  is  shown  that  accpiiring  this  knowledj^a* 
is  an  appalling  waste  of  time  and  effort.  The 
writer  of  the  article  claimed  that  there  is  noth- 
in<^  in  these  lauf^ua^^es  valuable  either  in  medi- 
cine, in  mathematics,  in  philosophy,  in  poetry, 
or  in  religion  ;  that  there  is  not  a  thought  which 
has  not  been  better  expressed  elsewhere  ;  that 
these  hierojT^lyphics  limit  thouji^ht,  fetter  the 
imagination,  and  restrict  the  reason  ;  that  they 
make  the  mind  helpless  as  a  caged  eagle. 

No  doubt  this  barbaric  calligraphy  is  a  great 
barrier  to  Japan's  progress.  She  ought  to  come 
into  the  great  family  of  nations  using  the  Roman 
character  ;  then  all  foreigners  could  readily  learn 
the  language.  The  world  would  lose  but  little 
if  all  the  literature  in  the  old  characters  were  de- 
stroyed. There  is  a  society  of  the  Japanese  to 
encourage  this  idea,  the  Romaji  Kwai.  All 
our  missionaries  will  welcome  the  introduction 
of  the  Roman  character.  They  tell  me  that  the 
use  of  the  Chinese  characters  in  conjunction 
with  the  Japanese  is  the  most  perplexing  part 
of  the  study.  Japan  lias  already  borrowed  too 
much  from  China.     Let   her   now  free  herself 


• 


1^. 


1  h 


^•^wafcifc.'- 


til    H!*" 

fit 


I 


'i      I 


224 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


from  Lhe  shackles  of  her  barbaric  infancy  and 
come  out  with  a  Japanese  language  in  the  char- 
acters of  the  most  enlightened  nations  of  the 
earth. 

Another  handicap  pointed  out  in  the  address 
is  the  incompetency  and  unreliability  of  Japanese 
business  men.  Their  word,  according  to  well- 
nigh  universal  testimony,  is  untrustworthy.  A 
case  has  recently  come  up  in  a  Japanese  court 
which  illustrates  this  statement.  It  is  affirmed 
that  a  Japanese  firm,  in  dealing  with  a  British 
house,  will  break  its  contracts  when  a  change  in 
prices  makes  a  violation  of  contract  a  financial 
gain.  The  Chinese  business  men  are  more  com- 
petent. They  are  found  in  banks  and  in  the 
great  houses  of  merchandise  in  places  of  trust, 
and  the  Japatese  fear  them. 

There  are  historical  reasons  for  the  defects  of 
Japanese  business  men.  Under  the  old  regime  the 
soldier  was  the  man  whom  the  people  honored  ; 
next  to  him  was  the  manufacturer  or  artisan  who 
made  swords  for  the  soldier ;  next  the  farmer  who 
raised  grain  to  feed  him,  and  far  down  the  list 
were  peddlers  and  merchants  who  merely  sold 
goods.  All  this  was  reversed  in  China.  There 
the  soldier  was  despised,  the  merchant  honored, 
and  we  see  in  the  two  nations  to-day  the  results 
of  these  different  standards  of  character  and  con- 
duct. But  the  Japanese  merchant  will  improve. 
He  must.  He  has  to  adapt  himself  to  new  con- 
ditions, and  he  is  Yankee  enough  to  learn  soon, 
from  policy  if  not  from  principle,  how  to  do  it. 

The  third  barrier  named  in  the  address  is  tiiC 


:^i 


If'" 


fl 


PECULIARITIES  OF   JAPAN 


225 


:y  and 
2  char- 
of   the 

iddress 
panese 
?  vvell- 
ly.  A 
^  court 
fifirmed 
British 
mge  in 
iiancial 
re  com- 
in  the 
I  trust, 

fects  of 
line  the 
inored ; 
m  who 
er  who 
he  list 
ly  sold 
There 
nored, 
esults 
Id  con- 
Iprove. 
con- 
soon, 
lo  it. 
lis  tiiC 


of 


the 


fj 


armaments  disproportioned 
nues  of  the  country.  Japan's  revenue  is  less 
than  fifty  million  dollars.  She  hopes  greatly  10 
increase  it  when  she  has  Formosa  fully  con- 
quered, but  that  result  is  still  in  the  future. 
Granting  that  her  revenue  were  one  hundred 
million  dollars,  that  would  be  a  small  amount 
to  enable  Japan  to  compete  in  the  new  world 
into  which  she  is  now  entering.  He  was  a  fool- 
ish Japanese  who  said  to  Mr.  Bennett  and  me 
the  other  day  on  the  train,  foolish  though  a 
university  professor,  "Japan  can  whip  any  two 
nations  on  the  earth."  Perhaps  this  bumptious 
spirit  is  inevitable  just  now,  when  the  people  are 
intoxicated  with  success,  but  it  is  just  the  spirit 
which  true  Japanese  dislike.  Great  Britain 
spends  yearly  on  her  navy  a  sum  nearly  twice 
as  large  as  the  entire  present  revenue  of  Japan. 
She  needs  to  cultivate  modesty  and  all  the  arts 
of  peace.  She  has  a  great  future,  and  she  must 
prepare  for  it  by  being  in  the  highest  sense  a 
great,  a  fully  civilized,  and  a  thoroughly  Chris- 
tianized people. 


Ml 
I 


,;f 


}\i  i 


.  y-  i) 


'■4)    ' 


J  >  .1 


kit 


i 


M 


I', 


'  1 


'1      ' 

I    1 1' 

H    r 


XIX 

THE   GIBRALTAR   OK   THE   EAST 

HONG  KONG  might  mean  "Red  Harbor"; 
if  the  form  Hiang  Kiang  is  adopted,  the 
meaning  will  be  "fragrant  streams."  The  word 
Hong  often  signifies  a  row  or  series  of  rooms, 
shops,  factories,  or  warehouses.  Each  block  of 
factories  is  called  by  the  natives  a  "hong." 
When  about  a  dozen  merchants  at  Canton  had 
a  monopoly  of  the  foreign  trade  they  were 
called  "hong  merchants." 

Hong  Kong  Harbor. — Weird  was  Hong 
Kong  as  we  entered  its  harbor  after  nightfall. 
The  sky  was  bright  with  stars,  and  the  electric 
lights,  rising  row  upon  row,  illuminated  the  hill 
which  rises  behind  and  above  the  city.  Both 
the  stars  and  the  electric  lights  were  reflected  in 
the  placid  waters.  The  varied-colored  lights 
from  the  many  ships  in  the  harbor  mingled 
their  rays  with  the  other  lights,  thus  adding  to 
the  beauty  of  the  striking  scene.  Jutting  out 
from  the  mainland  opposite  is  the  little  penin- 
sula of  Kowloong,  whose  lights  completed  the 
unique  picture.  This  territory  was  ceded  to  the 
British  government  by  the  convention  of  Peking, 
October  24,  1861.     The  next  morning  we  waited 

226 


k  r 


THE   CIBRALTAR   OK   TlIK    KAST 


227 


arbor"; 
ted,  the 
le  word 
rooms, 
3lock  of 
'  hong." 
ton  had 
;y    were 


5   Hong 

ightfall. 

electric 

the  hill 

Both 

cted  in 

lights 

ingled 

|ding  to 

ig  out 

penin- 

;ed  the 

to  the 

'eking, 

waited 


on  deck  until  the  clouds  lifted — some  rain  hav- 
ing fallen  in  the  night — and  then  the  entire 
view  of  hills,  harbor,  and  city  burst  upon  our 
sight.  This  magnificent  harbor,  surrounded  by 
its  ranges  of  lofty  hills,  renders  shelter  and 
affords  depth  for  any  known  tonnage.  It  is  a 
beautiful  amphitheatre,  a  watery  arena,  covered 
with  merchantmen  and  men-of-war  of  all  nations. 
Hong  Kong  is  the  great  emporium  of  the  east. 
With  rare  skill  does  Great  Britain  find  and  se- 
cure strategic  points  on  many  shores.  Tlie 
statesmanship  of  Britain  is  concerned  only  in 
small  part  with  the  little  islands  which  make  up 
Great  Britain.  It  is  the  greater  Britain  reach- 
ing to  the  ends  of  the  earth  which  must  chiefly 
occupy  the  minds  of  British  statesmen.  The 
prime  minister  who  cannot  by  a  wise  and  vigor- 
ous policy  conserve  these  interests,  whatever 
else  he  may  be  in  many  other  important  respects, 
cannot  really  govern  Great  Britain.  Her  rela- 
tions are  so  numerous  and  complicated  that  the 
utmost  wisdom  is  required  to  hold  the  balances 
justly,  preserving  her  dignity,  asserting  her  au- 
thorit}',  and  yet  observing  the  rights  of  other 
nations.  Years  have  taught  her  wisdom.  One 
almost  hesitates  to  speculate  on  the  "  might 
have  been  "  if  Britain  had  acted  wisely  toward 
her  American  colonies,  now  the  United  States 
of  America.  Britain  now  gives  her  colonies 
many  rights  which  were  then  denied.  They 
enjoy  an  autonomy,  which  once  would  have 
seemed  impossible,  either  to  the  mother  or  to 
the  children.    These  colonies  are  virtually  repub- 


1 


228 


AROUND   THE  WORLD 


At  ,', 


■'; 


lies,  though  the  shadow  of  the  British  throne 
falls  on  them  in  the  appointment  of  the  governor 
general,  who  for  a  time  is  the  representative  of 
royalty.  As  a  rule,  however,  these  colonies  are 
bound  to  the  mother  country  by  ties  of  loyalty 
as  strong  as  they  are  tender.  Spain's  treatment 
of  Cuba  shows  how  little  true  statesmanship 
Spain  possesses.  Anglo-Saxon  blood  and  Prot- 
estant faith  are  needed  for  the  world's  greatest 
prosperity.  This  blood  and  this  faith  will  yet 
rule  the  world.  Thoughts  like  these  suggested 
themselves  as  this  remote  British  colonial  city 
rose  up  before  us  in  its  beautiful  situation. 

About  us  are  the  bluish-green  and  greenish- 
blue  waters,  and  yonder  tlie  mountains  of  vol- 
canic rock  rising  sheer  from  the  water's  edge. 
These  mountains  rise  in  terrace  above  terrace  in 
the  form  of  a  crescent.  Our  steamer  is  sur- 
rounded by  scores  upon  scores  of  ut*^erly  un- 
sightly and  abominably  unclean  sampans  and 
other  small  craft.  Many  of  the  boats  are 
"  manned  "  by  loud-voiced  women,  who  steer, 
scull,  cook,  manage  the  numerous  children,  and 
drive  hard  bargains,  and,  when  not  otherwise 
engaged,  quietly  smoke  or  noisily  chatter  with 
their  sister  boatwomen.  It  is  said  that  there  are 
over  twenty  thousand  Chinese  in  Hong  Kong 
harbor  who  have  no  other  dwellings  but  small 
boats,  such  as  sampans,  hakans,  and  various 
sorts  of  diminutive  jimks.  They  earn  a  scanty 
subsistence  by  fishing,  by  transporting  passen- 
gers and  cargoes  to  and  from  shore,  and  in 
attending   in   other  ways   on   the   ships.     The 


tup:   GIBRALTAR    OK   TIIK    KAST 


229 


throne 
overnor 
ative  of 
nies  are 
loyalty 
satment 
nansliip 
id  Prot- 
greatest 
will  yet 
iggested 
lial  city 
n. 

reenish- 
>  of  vol- 
's edge. 
;rrace  in 
is   sur- 
erly  un- 
ans  and 
)ats    are 
o  steer, 
ren,  and 
;her\vise 
er  with 
here  are 
Kong 
t  small 
various 
scanty 
passen- 
and   in 
The 


3- 


women  seemed  to  be  quite  as  strong  and  skillful 
as  the  men  ;  they  were  quite  a»  able  to  push 
their  boats  into  the  line  and  to  shout  for  passen- 
gers as  are  their  husbands  and  brothers.  In  tliis 
latter  respect  they  rival  New  York  hackmen  and 
London  cabmen. 

Steam  launches,  belonging  to  the  ship  or  to 
the  hotels,  carried  the  cabin  passengers  ashore, 
and  then  the  steerage  passengers  were  beset  by 
the  runners  from  tb«^  native  hotels.  These  run- 
ners wear  a  cone-shaped  hat,  bearing  in  Chinese 
characters  the  name  of  the  hotel  represented. 
They  are  a  noisy  crowd,  and  scramble  up  the 
sides  of  the  ship  with  alacrity.  To  each  steer- 
age passenger  on  this  occasion  there  seemed  to 
be  at  least  twenty  runners,  but  no  doubt  when 
large  numbers  of  Chinese  are  returning  from 
America,  Hawaii,  and  other  lands,  these  runners 
find  many  patrons.  Both  hotel  runners  and 
boatmen  and  women  are  for  the  most  part  Hak- 
kas,  who  were  formerly  the  sole  dwellers  on  this 
island. 

The  island  of  Hong  Kong  Is  eleven  miles 
long  and  its  width  varies  from  two  to  five  miles  ; 
its  circumference  is  about  twenty-seven  miles, 
and  it  has  an  area  of  about  twenty-nine  square 
miles.  Its  cession  to  Britain  by  the  Chinese 
government  took  place  in  1841  as  a  preliminary 
measure  ;  and  as  in  1843,  t>y  the  treaty  of  Nankin, 
it  was  ceded  in  perpetuity  to  Her  Britannic 
Majesty,  it  is  now  a  crown  colony.  It  is  situ- 
ated at  the  mouth  of  Chu  Kiang  or  Pearl  River, 
ninety  miles  below  Canton  and  forty  miles  from 


fi  '3 


i 


^  '. 


230 


AKOUNl)    TIlIv    WORM) 


\  -I 


l\Iac;i(>,  llic  rortnj^iK'se  ])ort.  A  nij^j^cd  iiionn- 
taiii  runs  from  casl  to  west,  risitij^  at  its  Inchest 
point  to  ci};htocn  liundred  f'trt.  On  the  south 
coast  sandy  hcaclios  and  hold  clifis  alternate. 
The  houses  rise  on  terrace  after  terrace  and  arc 
iniposin*>  and  sonic  of  them  heautiful. 


Ti 


IK  Capitai.   City. — The   island    is    Ilonj^; 


Kono",  hut  the  k\L;al  and  official  name  of  the  city 
which  is  the  capital  is  Victoria.  After  si)rea(l- 
ini>^  out  alon<^  the  water's  cdj^^e  for  some  miles 
the  city  climhs  the  steeps  slopes  at  its  hack  in 
villas  and  uardens  until  it  reaches  almost  to  the 
summit  of  the  peak.  The  poi)ulation  is  some- 
what over  two  hundred  and  forty  thousand,  of 
which  numher  fewer  than  five  thousand  arc 
I'Curoi'tcans  and  Americans.  These  fi<^ures  show 
that  the  ]noportion  of  Chinese  residents  is  very 
threat,  and  ahout  one-third  of  them  arc  by  birth 
British  subjects.  The  Chinese  section  flanks 
the  foreii^n  quarter,  and  is  quite  characteri.stic 
of  the  race,  being-  crowded,  dirty,  and  abomi- 
nable. 

A  very  busy  scene  meets  the  tourist  when  he 
reaches  the  shore.  He  will  be  impressed  imme- 
diately with  the  variety  and  picturesqueness  of 
the  population.  The  ends  of  the  earth  meet  in 
Hono-  Kono-.  It  is  in  manv  wavs  the  world's 
cxchanoe.  Here  the  east  and  the  west  and  the 
north  and  the  south  meet  to  do  business,  and 
meet  often  to  cheat  and  to  be  cheated.  A  jinri- 
kisha  ride  on  the  broad  Praya,  an  avenue  which 
is  to  Hong-  Kong  what  the   Bund  is  at  Yoko- 


Tin-;   (linKAI.TAK    Ol'    TlIIv    ICAST 


231 


liaiiKi  or  at  Kobe,  bfini;;  tlu-  stivct  wliicli  fronts 
the  water,  will  show  the  visitor  streets  swariiiiii}^ 
with  a  motley  crowd.  All  classes,  conditions, 
and  phases  of  luinianity  seem  to  he  here.  Here 
are  Jews,  Tnrks,  Mohammedans,  Europeans, 
a  few  Americans,  Hindns,  Javanese,  Ja])anese, 
Cingalese,  Mala\s,  Parsees,  Sikhs,  Portn^ncse, 
iMcnch,  Si)aniar(ls,  and  (iermans, — the  last 
beinj^  mostly  Jews  and  money-lenders, — half- 
castes,  Chinese  merchants,  and,  always  and  every- 
where, the  Chinese  coolies,  carrying  poles,  buck- 
ets, baskets,  and  sedan  chairs,  or  clumsily  trotting 
with  the  clumsy  /y;/r//7".v//^/.v.  The  Chincscy/";/;'/- 
/y'isha  and  the  Chinese  runner  have  neither  the 
grace  nor  the  endurance  of  the  Japanese  vehicle 
and  man. 

Continuing  our  ride  or  walk,  we  observe  these 
various  classes  more  closely  in  this  bedlamic 
whirl  of  their  commingled  existence.  Here  is 
an  Indian  ayah  clothed  in  white  ;  here  is  a  Sikh 
])ol iceman,  trained  in  the  British  army,  standing 
on  the  corner  in  a  statuesque  and  semi-military 
attitude  ;  here  is  a  Chinese  policeman  looking 
(juite  out  of  place  in  a  semi-Kuropean  dress,  and 
here  is  a  luiropean  policeman.  You  ask  him  a 
question  and  he  answers  in  abroad  Ir:sh  brogue, 
and,  if  you  are  in  any  doubt,  hear  him  shout  at 
the  Chinese  loungers,  and  you  might  almost 
make  an  affidavit  that  you  are  in  New  York  ; 
here  a  mender,  who  v  ill  do  your  darning  and 
patching,  sits  by  a  basket  of  rags ;  here  a  peri- 
patetic barber  lays  down  his  poles  and  boxes, 
takes  out  his  tools  and  begins  operations  on  a 


i,'fl 


232 


AROUNn  TIIK   WORM) 


'  ! 


'     t    i 


•:/ 


needy  eustonier ;  here  pij^-lailed  hoys  at  phiy  ; 
here  peddlers  shouliii<»;  their  wares.  It  vvoiUd 
seem  that  tlie  custom  of  compressing  the  feet  is 
dyini^  out.  Some  ekleriy  women  were  hobhlin*;^ 
ak)u<r  as  the  victims  of  this  custom,  but  younj^ 
women  seem  to  have  been  brou<^ht  up  with  more 
sense.  Merc  also  are  elcj^^ant  men  and  women 
riding,  driving,  walking.  Here  are  British  sol- 
diers, whose  drum-beat  is  heard  around  the 
world,  dressed  in  white  linen  in  summer  and  in 
their  scarlet  uniforms  in  winter.  This  is  the 
bewildering  panorama  which  one  sees  on  the 
Praya,  Queen's  Road,  and  a  few  other  thorough- 
fares. 

This  is  truly  a  cosmopolitan  city  ;  it  is  one  of 
the  great  highways  of  the  world  ;  it  is  the  meeting- 
place  of  Asia,  Australia,  Oceanica,  iCurope,  and 
America.  The  garrison  of  troops  gives  one  a 
sense  of  security.  These  troops  suggest  British 
might,  enterprise,  and  wisdom.  Wherever  the 
British  flag  goes  commerce  goes,  liberty  goes, 
progress  goes,  civilization  goes,  Christianity 
goes.  Hong  Kong  is  a  strong  fortress,  a  safe- 
guard to  all  Asia,  the  Gibraltar  of  the  East.  Its 
commerce  is  enormous.  It  registers,  perhaps,  a 
greater  commercial  tonnage  than  any  other  port 
in  the  world.  The  city  of  Victoria  is  a  British 
colony  by  itself,  having  a  colonial  governor  and 
staff,  and  maintaining  a  small  court,  with  social 
ambitions  as  high  as  their  sphere  is  narrow. 
Here  is  the  naval  station  for  the  British  Asiatic 
fleet,  and  at  Kowloong,  on  the  opposite  shore, 
are  the  docks,  arsenals,  and  foundries  which  fur- 


Tin<:  (iinKAi/rAR  oi-*  Tin-:  i;ast 


233 


•!i 


ish  cvtiy  necessary  icciuiivnicnt   lor  peace   or 


s,  a 

\r  port 

■it  ish 

)r  and 

Isocial 

irrow. 

Ksiatic 

>hore, 

111  f ur- 


11 


iminitioii  lor  war, 


As  one  n)i<;lit  expect,  tlie  snnnncr  teni])eratnre 
is  liij^li,  as  tile  place  is  only  a  little  over  twenty- 
two  decrees  north  of  the  ecpiator.  There  is  also 
here  at  times  j^reat  atniosi)heric  humidity.  iMom 
May  to  ()ctol)er  the  heat  is  oj)pressive,  and  is 
accomi)anie(l  with  rain  -.whI  dam})ness.  lint  the 
honses  are  nsiially  bnilt  with  broad  verandas 
and  receding  apartments,  so  that  their  interior 
is  comfortably  cool.  Many  of  the  honses  bnilt 
in  this  fashion  seem  almost  like  fortifications. 
The  bnildinj^s  in  the  lMiroi)eaii  qnarter  arc 
larj^^ely  of  {granite,  there  bein^-  an  excellent  j^ran- 
itc  qnarry  in  the  neij^hborhood,  and  labor  beinj^ 
cheap  the  solidity,  massivencss,  and  stability  of 
the  houses  in  this  qnarter  are  observable.  After 
seeinji^  the  flimsy  and  ephemeral  homes  of  Japan, 
it  is  a  comfort  to  sec  these  o^rcat  and  massive 
strnctnrcs.  The  nrrades  over  the  walks  are  also 
a  marked  featnre  ;  they  ^ive  needed  protection 
from  rain  and  snn.  They  remind  one  of  many 
P^nropean  cities,  and  especially  of  some  parts  of 
Paris.  vSonie  foreign  residents  own  carriapi'cs 
drawn  by  horses,  and  there  are  a  few  drays,  bnt 
the  jinrikisJia  and  the  sedan  chair  are  the  chief 
means  of  locomotion,  and  even  heavy  merchan- 
dise is  carried  by  poles  on  the  shoulders  of  men. 
A  few  horses  here  are  of  more  value  apparently 
than  many  coolies. 

Charactp:ristic  Spots. — Most  of  the  whole- 
sale trade  is  carried  on  in  the  Praya,   .nd  in  the 


>'l;  ill 


:' 


li  , 


'» 


•i! 


234 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


cA 


Queen's  Road,  running  directly  behind  the  Pra)  a, 
the  retail  shops  and  marts  for  curios  are  found.  lu 
this  latter  are  the  Chinese  nioney-chano;ers,  with 
baskets  on  the  floor  at  their  feet,  into  whicli  they 
throw  the  silver  in  heaps  when  they  have  tested 
it  by  feeling  and  sounding  it.  Silver  filigree 
work,  ivory,  carvings,  porcelain,  and  ornaments 
of  gold  and  silver  are  temptingly  displayed. 
The  Chinese  dealer  is  very  shrewd,  and  generally 
asks  much  more  than  he  will  finally  take. 

Hong  Kong  being  a  free  port,  European  goods 
are  bought  at  prices  but  slightly  in  advance  of 
home  rates.  A  Hong  Kong  newspaper,  which 
contained  nothing  except  advertisements,  a  few 
scissorings,  and  two  editorials  in  very  indifTercnt 
English,  cost  me  the  exorbitant  sinn  of  fourteen 
cents.  In  Hong  Kong,  as  in  Japan,  the  plan 
seems  to  be  to  put  the  daily  newspapers  at  such 
prices  that  no  one  will  buy  them,  and  it  would 
seem  as  if  this  end  were  fully  attained,  except 
when  an  ignorant  tourist  is  betrayed  into  making 
a  foolish  purchase.  In  the  banks.  Chinamen  or 
half-castes  share  the  duties  with  Europeans,  and 
some  of  the  banks  are  fine  structures.  Coolies 
swing  great  fans  over  the  desks,  and  the  clerks, 
dressed  in  white,  work  very  deliberately.  Getting 
five  pounds  in  one  of  these  banks  proved  to  be  a 
prolonged  and  very  solemn  function. 

Near  the  city  is  a  race-course  in  a  locality 
known  as  the  "  Happy  Valley."  There  are  also 
the  Protestant,  Roman,  Mohammedan,  Parsee, 
Hindu,  and  Chinese  cemeteries.  The  City  Hall, 
Hong  Kong  and  Shanghai  banks  are  fine  build- 


ll     !• 


:ality 
also 

irsee, 
|Hall, 

)uild- 


THK   (linKAI/PAR    OK   Till-    KAST 


235 


inps. 


T 


o   sonic 


tl 


le    111 


ilitar 


inul 


y    i)ai"a(ie    «;i(M111< 


cricket  j^roiinds,  and  ])arracks  arc  an  attraction. 


ibli 


d( 


d  vSt. 


The  Government  Ilonsc,  ^ 
John's  Anglican  Cathedral,  the  clock  tower,  and 
several  club  houses  will  attract  attention.  So 
will  the  lines  of  two  viaducts,  the  Howen  and 
Kennedy  Roads,  as  those  high  promenades  are 
called,  being  named  for  two  favorite  governors 
of  the  colony. 

The  peak  is  reached  by  an  inclined  railway, 
which  is  worked  by  a  cable.  It  goes  to  Victor  ia 
Gap,  which  is  at  a  height  of  fourteen  hundred 
feet.  The  road  rises  more  than  one  foot  in  four. 
At  the  top  are  two  large  hotels  and  numerous 
dwellings,  and  good  roads  go  four  hundred  and 
twenty-five  feet  higher  to  the  main  signal  sta- 
tion. It  is  easy  to  imagine  how  superb  the 
views  are  from  this  height.  At  the  feet  of  the 
beholder  lies  the  city  ;  stretching  out  before  him 
is  the  harbor,  with  its  many  ships ;  inland  the 
vision  extends  to  the  encircling  mountains  and 
outward  over  the  limitless  ocean.  Standing  on 
the  deck  of  the  steamer,  the  night  of  our  arrival, 
we  watched  at  first  with  a  puzzled  interest,  not 
knowing  what  they  were,  the  lights  of  the  cable 
cars  as  they  were  going  up  and  down  the  moun- 
tain, a  track  of  fire  marking  their  course. 

Previous  to  1861,  Kowloong,  of  which  men- 
tion has  been  made,  was  considered  neutral  ter- 
ritory, but  the  Chinese  having  violated  certain 
treaty  conditions,  were  punished  by  having  Kow- 
loong occupied  and  Canton  captured  by  the 
British.     Canton,  however,  was  held  only  a  short 


f 


fi 


}  > 


/  I 


I        i 


<•'  i 


l.^i!  ( 


l!-V 


•I. 


'  ■  * 


i' 


r    t'f|-|    ,      ' 


236 


AROUND    Till-:    WOULD 


time,  as  the  CMiinese  government  came  to  terms. 
Kovvloonj^,  eonsistini;  of  only  funr  scinare  miles, 
was  IIkmi  added  to  the  eolony. 

Ilonj^  Konj;-  is  nsnally  ealled  a  "fast  city." 
Seai)()rt  towns  uniformly  ])()ssess  all  the  vices  of 
civilization.  Unfortunately,  these  come  sooner 
far  than  the  virtues.  There  is  a  Hritish  society 
here  which  certainly  is  not  "  slow."  Halls,  horse 
races,  re«;attas,  and  /<V<\v  of  many  kinds  are  com- 
mon. Club  life  is  a  characteristic  of  llonj^ 
Konj^  ;  so  are  late  hours,  eveninj^  enlertainments, 
and  their  inseparable  accompaniments.  The 
.serious  affairs  of  life  are  left  behind,  left  "at 
liomc."  This  condition  of  thinj;s  is  inevital)le 
when  military  life  is  a  predominating  element 
in  any  community. 

Thrrk-ckntttrv-ot.d  Macao. — I'rom  Hong 
Kong  the  sea-paths,  if  one  may  .so  speak,  diverge 
to  the  ends  of  the  earth  ;  this  city  is  the  hub, 
these  paths  arc  the  spokes,  and  the  circle  of  the 
earth  is  the  tire.  But  before  going  out  to  the 
larger  world,  or  on  to  Canton,  a  glimpse  of  the 
old  city  of  Macao  will  repay  the  trouble.  The 
trip  planned  in  N'  •  York  admits  of  but  three 
days  in  this  vicinity,  and  that  plan  will  be  ob- 
served ;  but  it  is  quite  possible,  with  energy  and 
diligence,  to  get  a  hasty  glimpse  of  both  Macao 
and  Canton.  In  a  few  hours  one  may  go  from 
Hong  Kong  to  Macao,  which  is  on  the  western 
part  of  the  estuary  of  the  Canton  River,  forty 
uiiles  away.  It  is  an  old  Portuguese  trading 
town,  having  been  founded  in  1557.    For  a  long 


TIIK  (illJKAI/rAK   OK   Tlllv    i;AS'r 


23: 


time  it  was  an  important  commercial  city,  hut 
when  llonj^  Kon^  arose,  Macao  declined.  It  is 
a  (jnaint  old  place,  with  a  popnlalion  ol'  ahont 
seventy  thousand.  Its  hnildinj^s  are  ol"  many 
colors, — in  this  respect  like  those  of  Moscow, — 
))nfT,  bine,  gray,  salmon,  terra-cotta,  and  other 
shades.  On  the  border  of  its  promenade  is  a 
dwarfed  species  of  the  banyan  tree.  The  {gar- 
dens and  j^notto  where  Camoctis,  the  Portn^^nesc 
poet,  wrote  his  "  Lnsiad  "  and  other  poems,  arc 
shown,  for  it  is  said  that  after  the  vessel  in 
which  he  sailed  had  been  wrecked  he  dwelt  on 
these  shores. 

One  may  here  sec  the  licensed  p^and)Hn^ 
houses  where  the  Chinese  and  others  play  the 
game  of  "  fan-tan,"  for  Macao  is  the  Monte  Carlo 
of  the  far  Kast.  Here  we  see  also  the  loadin^^of 
opium  carj^oes,  and  the  ^reat  industrial  csta!)lish- 
ments  where  silk,  tea,  and  tobacco  are  prepared 
for  the  various  markets.  The  public  and  pri- 
vate ji^ardens,  the  cathedral,  and  the  foi^adr  of 
San  Pablo  will  repay  the  time  required  for  their 
examination.  There  is  a  jj^ood  hotel  and  the 
opportunity  for  enjoyinj^-  a  refreshing  .sea-bath. 
Macao,  off  here  in  the  Kast,  is  a  slice,  an  echo,  a 
glimpse  of  medieval  Europe. 


IV 


II 


i 


;"f*wnr^s?n(K=s 


I  , 


H   *     (   • 


!' 


B'''  ... 


!■: 


P: 


XX 


A   NICK   OF   CHINA 


IN  laying  out  the  present  trip  there  was  no 
thought  of  visiting  China,  beyond  getting  a 
glimpse  of  one  or  two  of  her  typical  cities.  A 
country  so  vast  as  China,  and  whose  modes  of 
travel  are  so  primitive,  cannot  be  extensively 
visited  by  a  vacation  tourist.  When  China 
comes  into  line  with  the  fully  civilized  nations 
of  the  earth,  and  introduces  modern  modes  of 
travel,  and  learns  to  treat  foreigners  courteously, 
she  may  expect  even  the  hurried  traveler  to  visit 
considerable  parts  of  her  enormous  country ;  but 
cer<-ainly  not  till  then. 

Nearing  Kwang-tung. — No  city  in  China, 
perhaps,  certainly  none  so  easily  accessible,  is 
more  typically  Chinese  than  Canton.  Two 
boats  go  daily  each  way  between  Hong  Kong 
and  Canton.  If  one  were  greatly  hurried  he 
could  start  in  the  morning  from  Hong  Kong  for 
the  trip  of  ninety  miles  up  the  Pearl  River  to 
Canton,  and  then  return  to  Hong  Kong  the  same 
night.  If  he  were  to  go  and  return  on  the  night 
boat  he  would  have  an  entire  day  in  Canton. 
The  ordinary  traveler  does  not  need  more  than 
one  d^y  to  see  the  sights  in  this  noisy  and  ill- 

238 


'      \ 


A   NICK   OF  CHINA 


239 


W 


'   * 


no 


IS 


lo- 


he 
for 

to 
ime 

ton. 


ill- 


smelling,  bnt,  in  its  way,  interesting  Chinese 
city.  The  day  trip  np  thr  river  affords  fine 
views  of  the  productions  of  the  country.  Ba- 
nana, orange,  sugar-cane,  and  tea  are  seen  in  all 
the  stages  of  their  growth.  Bright-plumaged 
birds,  brilliant  flowers,  and  strange  trees  are  also 
seen,  the  trees  being  trained  to  grow  in  the  shape 
of  men  and  of  animals  of  many  kinds.  Large 
portions  of  the  country  are  under  rice  cultiva- 
tion, aud  here  and  there  are  fruit  and  nut  or- 
chards. The  soil  is  very  fertile,  the  vegetation 
at  times  showing  the  luxuriance  characteristic 
of  tropical  countries. 

The  rive''  is  often  at  least  two  miles  wide,  and 
there  are  also  occasional  bays  apparently  from 
six  to  eight  miles  across.  The  water-ways  are 
of  the  greatest  importance  in  a  country  where 
railways  have  not  been  introduced.  China  de- 
pends largely  on  her  canals  and  rivers,  her  high- 
ways being  such  only  in  u'^.me.  China  lives  in 
a  dim  and  hazy  past.  She  is  an  enigma  to  the 
world.  In  the  journey  two  lofty  pagodas,  be- 
longing to  Whampoa  and  Honani,  were  ob- 
served. In  the  galleries  of  one  of  these  pa- 
godas, trees  ind  shrubs  are  growing,  giving  it  a 
strangely  pi  :turesque  appearance.  As  we  ap- 
proached Car' on,  the  boats  in  the  river,  of  many 
kinds,  rapidly  increased  in  number.  The  fish- 
ing boats  indicate  that  a  large  percentage  of  the 
people  secure  their  daily  food  by  fishing.  Women 
are  more  numerous  than  men  as  the  managers  of 
these  boats,  and  the  ubi<juitous  baby  is  on  their 
backs.     The  women  row,  fisli,  run,  and  jump, 


t., 

■I  I 

'"I " 

.  V' 


':  I 


!• 


ETr 


240 


AROUND    THE    WORLD 


;/! 


'  I 


Pi-  '-• 


.'!■'  ;    .' 


WW 


and  the  baby  .-.leeps  or  crawls,  but  seldom  cries 
or  looks  in  any  way  rnhappy.  The  market-bvXiL, 
propelled  by  a  large  wheel  at  the  stern  worked 
by  a  dozen  or  more  semi-nude  men  in  a  sort  of 
tread-mill  fashion,  especially  attracts  attention. 
There  are  also  steamers,  junks,  and  swarms  of 
smaller  craft  of  many  kinds. 

Nearing  Canton  the  city  wall,  the  many-storied 
pagoda,  and  the  twin  spires  of  the  Roman  Catholic 
cathedral  are  seen ;  so  are  the  high,  square, 
tower-like  buildings,  which  are  pawnshops,  a 
very  important  feature  of  Chinese  life.  Draw- 
ing still  nearer,  a  fleet  of  boats,  called  "  slipper 
boats,"  is  seen.  They  have  a  boothlike  cover- 
ing running  down  to  a  point  at  the  forward  end, 
so  that  they  rightly  bear  a  name  deiived  from 
their  resemblance  to  a  slipper.  This  class  of 
boats  is  of  a  higher  order  than  the  sampans  or- 
dinarily seen.  They  are  also  chiefly  managed 
by  women,  who  vociferously  shout  for  passengers, 
as  the  boats  are  mostly  used  to  carry  passengers 
from  one  side  of  the  river  to  the  other.  For 
Chinese  boats  they  are  reasonably  clean,  and 
they  are  sometimes  even  adorned  with  pictures 
and  mirrors. 

The  river  population  of  Canton  is  supposed 
to  be  from  two  hundred  thousand  to  three  hun- 
dred thousand.  These  people  form  a  separate 
class,  living  in  the  innumerable  boats  moored  in 
the  river  and  the  network  of  creeks  through  the 
city.  They  are  born  on  these  boats,  on  them 
they  live,  amd  on  them  many  die. 

The  so-called  "  flower-boats  "  are  another  pe- 


l\ 


A   NICK   OF   CHINA 


241 


r:i 


losed 
liun- 
ivate 
id  in 
the 
111  em 

pe- 


culiar feature  of  Chinese  life.  In  many  respects 
they  resemble  canal  boats  ;  on  them  houses  of 
one  or  two  stories  are  built.  They  are  securely 
moored,  and  do  not  change  their  location,  being 
arranged  in  regular  streets  and  avenues.  Tliey 
are  fitted  up  as  restaurants,  and  are  approached 
in  boats.  A  fire  about  a  year  before  this  visit 
much  reduced  their  number,  but  hundreds  of 
them  still  remained.  These  early  glimpses  of 
the  Celestial  Empire  suggested  the  adjective 
"  inferu   ^  "  rather  than  "celestial." 


The  Walled  City. — Canton,  or  Kwang-tung, 
is  situated  on  the  Chu  Kiang  or  Pearl  River ;  it 
is  the  capital  of  the  important  province  of  Kwang- 
tung,  and  the  place  of  residence  of  the  viceroy 
of  the  two  r  'ang  provinces,  Kwang-tung  and 
Kwang-si.  It  is  the  emporium  of  Chinese  com- 
merce. The  river  is  very  picturesque.  The  en- 
trance to  it  is  called  "Boca  Tifrris."  This  is  Ihe 
Portuguese  translation  of  the  Chinese  Ilti-muJi^ 
meaning  "  Tiger's  Mouth."  The  city  proper  ex- 
tends to  a  breadth  of  two  miles,  and  is  about  six 
miles  in  circumference.  It  is  enclosed  bv  walls 
about  twenty  feet  thick,  and  from  twenty-five 
to  forty  feet  high,  through  which  entrance  to 
the  city   is  made  sixteen  gates   in  addition 

to  two  water  gates.  A  guard-house  is  attached 
to  each  gate.  Canton  has  been  called  at  times 
the  City  of  Rams  and  the  City  of  Genii.  Of 
course  legends  have  suggested  these  names. 
According  to  them  five  protecting  spirits  de- 
scended from  heaven,  more  thara  two  thousand 


\\\ 


1 


\ 

i 

i' 

1  i.^^. 

'i 

•3 

n 


\  \ 


* ' 


-^d^j 


242 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


itii 


years  ago,  mounted  on  as  many  rams.  It  would 
seem  as  if  in  the  interval  since  then  almost 
everything  which  might  claim,  even  in  legend, 
a  heavenly  origin  had  departed  from  the  bedlam 
called  Canton.  It  is,  however,  the  chief  trading 
center  of  southern  China. 

Ever  since  the  eighth  century  of  our  era  the 
city  has  been  known  to  foreigners ;  but  the 
southern  enclosure,  known  as  the  new  city,  is 
comparatively  modern,  having  been  added  in 
1568.  In  the  suburbs  are  found  the  European 
factories,  or  hongs.  We  know  that  Arab  traders 
were  in  Canton  in  the  tenth  century  ;  the  Por- 
tuguese came  early  in  the  sixteenth  century ; 
and  early  in  the  seventeenth  century  the  Tartar 
invasion  occurred.  The  Tartar  population  is 
found  now  cliiefly  in  the  old  city.  The  famous 
East  India  Company  found  a  foothold  here  in 
tlie  seventeenth  century,  and  for  one  hundred 
and  fifty  years  controlled  foreign  trade. 

-Ittention  has  been  called  in  an  earlier  para- 
graph to  the  fact  tliai  the  city  was  invested  by 
the  British  in  1841  ;  at  that  time  it  would  have 
been  bombarded  but  that  it  paid  the  sum  of  six 
million  dolla.  .>  for  its  release,  the  Chinese  having 
been  guilty  of  violation  of  treaties.  In  Decem- 
ber, 1857,  Canton  was  captured  by  the  allied 
forces  of  the  British  and  French,  and  held  in 
their  hands  for  nt.irly  four  years,  the  govern- 
ment being  administered  by  a  joint  commission. 
Cliina  finally  came  to  terms,  and  the  foreign 
troops  were  withdrawn.  Great  Britain  has  had 
a  summary  way  of  dealing  with  Asiatic  nations. 


f-    1  fe 


IS 


|>reign 
had 
Itions, 


A   NICK  OK   CHINA 


243 


and  recent  massacres  in  China  demand  at  this 
moment  decisive  measures. 

The  sight-seeing  of  the  day  must  begin. 
'^  ^"  ady  the  babel  of  many  voices  falls  upon  the 
ear ;  it  is  in  the  distance  like  the  roar  of  the  sea 
as  its  waves  beat  on  the  shore.  There  is  a  hotel 
on  the  Shameen,  a  small  island,  which  is  sepa- 
rated from  the  mainland  by  a  small  stream  or 
canal,  and  on  this  island  is  the  pretty  foreign 
settlement,  near  the  western  suburb ;  here  are 
quiet  and  shady  walks  to  which  one  is  glad  to 
retreat  from  the  noises,  sights,  and  smells  of  the 
typical  Chinese  city  of  Canton.  But  the  traveler 
need  not  get  a  room  at  the  hotel ;  perhaps  he 
has  an  invitation  from  one  of  the  foreign  resi- 
dents, but  if  not  he  can  secure  a  cabin  in  the 
boat  which  is  to  take  him  back  to  Hong  Kong. 
He  can  also  bring  his  "  tiffin^''  luncheon,  with 
him  from  the  boat. 

The  Shameen  is  really  an  Arcadian  island. 
One  would  think  that  the  contrast  between  it 
and  the  Chinese  parts  of  the  city  would  favor- 
ably impress  even  tlie  Chinese,  and  would  in- 
spire them  to  imitate  the  neatness  and  cleanli- 
ness of  the  foreigners  ;  no  doubt  it  does  impress 
the  Chinese  and  does  inspire  them — inspires 
them  to  look  down  with  unutterable  contempt 
on  these  barbarous  foreigners.  Just  at  this  time 
especially  the  Cantonese  were  not  disposed  to 
look  witli  favor  on  foreigners ;  it  was  therefore 
well  for  tourists  not  to  notice  critical  comments 
which  they  could  not  understand,  nor  unpleasant 
gestures  whose  meaning  is  not  concealed. 


I 


ill 

i' 


I: ' 


244 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


The  stream  or  canal  which  separates  the  Sha- 
meeii  from  the  mainland  is  filled  with  sampans, 
but  there  are  only  two  avenues  of  approach,  one 
by  the  English  and  the  other  by  the  French 
bridge ;  these  bridges  are  closed  at  night  and 
guarded  by  the  police,  and  Chinese  are  not  al- 
lowed entrance  unless  they  have  a  permit.  The 
closing  and  opening  of  the  gates  are  marked  by 
a  gieat  din  caused  by  blowing  horns  and  beat- 
ing drums,  and  reacliing  a  climax  in  the  dis- 
charge of  an  old  musket.  The  racket  is  so 
great  as  almost  to  lead  one  to  suppose  that  the 
whole  Celestial  Empire  is  in  a  state  of  rebellion. 
It  is,  indeed,  an  "  infernal "  din  to  be  made  by  a 
"  celestial  "  city.  It  is  supposed  that  tlie  law  is 
made  majestic  in  proportion  to  the  noise  which 
accompanies  its  manifestations. 


K     I'' 


\W 


';i 


Streets  of  Canton. — The  noise,  bustle, 
crowding,  and  squeezing  are  all  one  can  endure. 
You  select  one  of  the  corps  of  professional 
guides,  or  perhaps  some  less  pretentious  a'ce- 
roiiCy  and  the  company  starts ;  the  sedan  chairs 
follow  their  leader  in  single  file  through  the 
streets,  making  a  procession  as  unique  to  Euro- 
pean eyes  as  it  is  natural  to  the  eyes  of  the  Can- 
tonese. The  route  is  the  established  one,  chosen 
as  the  result  of  experience  so  as  to  give  the  vis- 
itor the  greatest  amoimt  of  sight-seeing  with  the 
smallest  expenditure  of  time  and  labor.  The 
sedan  chairs  cost  but  little,  and  they  save  time 
and  strength,  but  their  most  important  service  is 
that  they  lift  one  above  the  horrible  filth  of  the 


i):.i 


A    NICK   OF   CHINA 


245 


vile  streets ;  if  they  could  only  protect  the  nos- 
trils as  well  as  the  ankles  their  value  would  be 
greatly  enhanced. 

Streets,  did  I  say?  Well,  by  courtesy  they 
are  called  streets.  There  is  in  Canton  a  popula- 
tion of  perhaps  a  million  and  a  half,  and  there 
is  not  a  street  in  the  cit>'  more  than  eight  feet 
wide  ;  many  are  from  six  to  seven  feet,  and  some 
are  even  narrower,  even  though  the  law  is  that 
they  shall  be  at  least  seven.  Horses  and  car- 
riages are  unknown  here.  I  thought  the  streets 
narrow  in  Spanish  cities  ;  but  think  of  those  of 
Canton.  Even  the  comiortahle  jV^tn'h's/ia  cannot 
be  used  here ;  everything  has  to  be  carried  on 
human  shoulders.  Two  chairs  and  their  coolies 
can  barely  brush  past  each  other.  Turning  a 
corner  often  necessitates  invading  a  shop  front 
with  the  poles  of  the  sedan  chair,  and  a  chair 
may  for  a  time  block  a  whole  street.  Then  a 
babel  of  shouts  rends  the  air  and  almost  splits 
the  ear.  Where  streets  meet,  or  in  front  of  some 
special  business  house,  or  some  dignitary's  dwell- 
ing, there  is  a  little  additional  space,  but  such 
spaces  are  exceptional. 

The  street  scenes  are  a  study.  In  front  of 
some  shops  there  are  brightly  colored  signs, 
mysterious,  hieroglyphical,  bewildering.  Occa- 
sionally, as  in  Seville,  a  canopy  is  drawn  across 
the  street  and  the  sky  is  hidden  from  view.  The 
shop  fronts  are  removed  and  all  goods  are  open 
to  inspection,  and  narrow  as  the  streets  are,  some 
of  their  space  is  occupied  by  merchants  ambi- 
tious to  display  their  goods.     Long-gowned  mer- 


!1 


Hi' 


m 

'it' 


I 


\ 


'I 


'-,-■ 


if! 


246 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


•/     n  'I 


•m 


chants  abound  ;  and  porters  in  scantiest  garb  arc 
hurryincr  to  and  fro,  carrying  great  bundles  sus- 
pended from  poles  on  their  shoulders.  Here 
conies  a  dignitary  with  a  two-storied  red  um- 
brella. Who  may  he  be?  HiS  umbrella  pro- 
claims him  10  be  a  mr.n  of  rank.  He  claims 
the  right  of  way.  Ordinary  citizens  flatten 
themselves  against  the  wall  or  find  shelter  in  a 
doorway  to  let  him  pass.  Here  comes  a  gayly 
painted  and  gilded  wedding-chair,  with  sounds 
called  music  heralding  its  approach.  By  all 
means  yield  the  right  of  way  again. 

Did  you  think  the  streets  were  narrow,  foul- 
smelling,  and  generally  disgusting?  Has  your 
olfactory  sense  been  in  a  state  of  rebellion  ever 
since  you  began  your  strange  journey  ?  You  are 
quite  mistaken.  "  What  is  in  a  name  ?  "  You 
shall  see.  You  have  complained,  good  friend, 
of  the  thousand  mingled  and  vile  odors  which 
saluted  your  nostril  in  yonder  street.  Then 
know,  O  complaining  mortal,  that  you  were  in 
the  "  Street  of  Refreshing  Breezes."  Breezes, 
indeed,  but  refreshing !  Well,  that  is  not  ex- 
actly the  name  which  occurred  to  you.  Were 
you  deafened  by  the  din  of  that  other  street? 
Did  you  determine  to  hasten  from  it  to  one 
which  you  found  still  fuller  with  rushing  tides 
of  humanity  and  noises  of  bedlam  or  babel  ? 
Then  know  that  the  latter  street  is  none  other 
than  the  "  Street  of  Ten  Thousand-fold  Peace," 
and  the  former  the  "Street  of  Multiplied  Bless- 
ings." 

Does  this  nomenclature  madden  or  sadden  you  ? 


il 


A    NICK   OK    CHINA 


247 


'I   I 


n 


Preserve  your  soul  in  patience ;  go  farther  and 
you  may  travel  through  such  streets  as  "  Ever- 
lasting^ Love,"  "Thousand  Beatitudes,"  "One 
Thousand  Grandsons,"  "  Benevolence  and  Love  "  ; 
or,  what  seems  more  in  keeping  with  all  you  see, 
smell,  and  feel,  the  street  of  "The  Saluting 
Dragon."  Some  of  the  streets  are  devoted  to 
distinct  trades ;  thus  there  is  "  Carpenter " 
Street,  "  Apothecary  "  Street,  and  others  of  other 
trades  or  pursuits.  Verily,  there  is  much  in  a 
name ;  in  the  streets  of  Canton  much  contradic- 
tion and  sometimes  nmcli  righteous  indignation. 

Chief  Sights. — Here  temples  abound.  In 
this  respect  China  goes  ahead  of  Japan.  There 
are  in  China  three  great  zsms :  Buddhism,  Con- 
fucianism, and  Taoism.  Confucius  lived  about 
the  sixth  century  before  Christ ;  Lao-tse,  the 
founder  of  Taoism,  was  his  contemporary,  and 
Buddhism  was  introduced  from  India  about  the 
time  of  the  Christian  era.  Except  among  the 
learned  Chinese  there  is  no  clearly  defined  dis- 
tinction between  these  various  beliefs ;  their 
lines  cross  and  recross  one  another.  In  temples 
dedicated  to  one  faith  there  are  found  forms  of 
worship  and  images  which  are  utterly  repudiated 
by  the  founders  and  the  intelligent  devotees  of 
that  faith. 

The  one  dominating  religious  faith  in  China 
is  the  worship  of  ancestors.  This  is  the  distin- 
guishing element  in  their  religious  philosophy, 
and  is  the  only  faith  which  may  rightly  be 
called  national.     While  on  this  journey  I  read 


'.  ,t 


'■'-' 


■   \ 


i'l' 


\k 


;   ! 


C 


*  », 


248 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


If     I 


>, ,   ' 


1»  1.1     Wl 


f-i 


careful  histories  and  arguments  on  tliis  subject, 
and  1  was  convinced  that  this  is  the  one  domi- 
nating faith  and  worship.  It  often  controls  tlie 
administration  of  justice  ;  it  determines  the  suc- 
cession to  power ;  it  influences  every  .social  rela- 
tion ;  it  even  leads  to  the  return  of  the  Chinese 
emigrant,  living  or  dead.  Tliis  is  not  the  place 
for  the  discussion  of  this  broad  subject ;  but  it 
is  certainly  true  that  all  minor  matters  of  belief 
are  absorbed  in  this  national  tenet  of  Chinese 
faith. 

In  China,  as  in  Japan,  there  are  numerous  sects 
of  Buddhists.  There  is  in  Canton  a  temple  to 
Confucius  in  every  division  of  the  city,  and  these 
temples,  like  the  Shinto  shrines  in  Japan,  are 
relatively  plain,  while  the  Buddhist  and  Taoist 
temples  have  many  dc  .es  and  strange  and  often 
hideous  objects  of  worship. 

One  will,  of  course,  visit  the  temple  of  the 
Five  Hundred  Genii,  situated  in  the  western 
suburbs.  This  temple  is  sometimes  called  The 
Flov/ery  Forest  Monastery,  and  it  is  said  to  have 
been  founded  about  the  year  500  a.  d.  ;  it  con- 
tains the  images  of  five  hundred  disciples,  sages, 
and  apostles  of  Buddha.  The  only  thing  worthy 
of  notice  is  that  the  expressions  on  the  features 
of  these  deified  sages  and  warriors  differ  essen- 
tially ;  but  they  all  agree  in  being  exceedingly 
commonplace.  The  images  of  the  good  Knipe- 
ror  Kien  Lung,  who  ruled  for  sixty  years,  and 
of  Marco  Polo,  the  famous  Venetian  traveler, 
are  worthy  of  a  second  look  because  of  their 
historical  associations. 


A    NICK   OK    CHINA 


219 


en- 

ly 

pe- 

id 

er. 


The  Taoist  monastery  of  Tlircc  Chiefs  occu- 
pies a  picturcs(iuc  location  on  the-  side  of  Kun 
Yam  Hill.  The  water  clock  is  larjj^ely  a  very 
commonplace  affair;  it  is  a  very  crude  mode  of 
measurinor  time  ;  indeed  an  ordinary  American 
boy  could  improve  upon  it  in  all  its  parts.  The 
five-storied  pa<(oda  is  a  lon<r  red  building-  rising 
over  the  wall.  It  connnands  a  superb  view  of 
the  surrounding  country.  The  Flowery  Pagoda 
is  a  nine-storied  octagonal  structure  of  great 
beauty.  It  is  probably  fourteen  hundred  years 
old,  and  is  one  hundred  and  seventy  feet  high. 
Like  towers  in  Pisa,  Bologna,  and  other  places, 
it  leans  from  the  perpendicular,  but  only  slightly. 
A  few  years  ago  the  sum  of  ten  thousand  dollars 
was  expended  on  it  in  making  extensive  repairs. 
The  natives  regard  the  temple  of  Honan  as  pos- 
sessing great  sanctity  ;  here  Buddhist  priests  offi- 
ciate and  there  is  a  group  of  shrines  dedicated 
to  various  deities.  The  trees  shading  the  courts 
are  of  great  age,  height,  and  size.  As  often  seen 
in  Japan,  two  hideous  idols  of  colossal  size,  half 
man  and  half  animal,  are  placed  at  the  main  en- 
trance ;  they  are  the  guardians  of  the  portals. 
Shaven-headed  priests,  like  those  one  often  sees 
ill  Roman  churches,  sleek,  fat,  and  gross,  were 
burning-  incense,  chanting,  and  performing  other 
rites.  The  temple  of  Horrors  is  one  of  the 
popular  places  of  Buddhist  worship;  in  its  hor- 
rid representations  of  Buddhist  hells  it  is  worthy 
of  its  name. 

The  Examination  Hall  is  a  historic  institu- 
tion.    It  is  in  some  sort  an  approach  to  foreign 


i'l 


ll> 


I  r 


& 


I  * 


'>? 


it 


W  1  '      '     ' 


'p  . 


,1 


250 


AROUND   THIi   WORI,D 


li  ; 


universities.  Here  examinations  are  held,  last- 
ing three  days,  under  the  direction  of  hi^h  offi- 
cials. There  are  twelve  thousand  cells  on  the 
grounds,  and  for  two  days  and  nij^hts  the  candi- 
dates are  kept  therein  ;  a  strict  watch  is  main- 
tained that  they  may  not  communicate  with  one 
another  or  with  any  persons  in  the  outside  world. 
When  a  death  occurs  the  body  is  removed 
through  a  hole  in  the  wall,  for  the  j^^ates  cannot 
be  unlocked  until  the  exaniinalion  is  over. 
Usually  only  forty  to  fifty  students  receive  de- 
grees, and  these  go  to  Peking  for  further  exam- 
ination, and,  if  successful,  are  then  given  posi- 
tions of  honor  under  the  government.  But 
there  is  not  space  to  speak  of  the  city  prison, 
where  punishment  is  barbarous  and  where  de- 
capitations take  place  each  Friday ;  of  the  tem- 
ple of  Longevity,  of  that  of  the  Queen  of 
Heaven,  of  the  pen  of  sacred  swine,  of  the 
Viceroy's  Iviterary  Club,  of  the  Magistrate's 
Halls,  or  Yamcns^  of  the  Tea  Merchants'  Guild 
Hall,  and  still  other  objects  of  interest. 

In  the  bazaars  are  seen  fine  specimens  of  por- 
celain, of  jade-stone  jewelry,  of  ivory  carvings, 
of  silks  in  many  kinds,  of  goods  and  curios  of 
various  sorts  and  prices.  There  are  shops  for 
the  sale  of  edible  birds'  nests,  brought,  it  is  said, 
from  Borneo ;  and  there  are  restaurants  and 
markets  where  cats,  dogs,  and  rats  are  sold  as  the 
staple  foods ;  but  these  are  found  only  in  what 
we  would  call  the  slums.  The  rat  is  certainly 
in  the  market ;  no  one  can  truthfully  deny  that 
statement.    It  is  there  alive  in  cages  ;  it  is  there 


I J 


\    M" 


A    NICK    OK   CHINA 


251 


fresh  or  dried  on  incatshop  counters;  it  is  there 
in  the  queer-loc,kin;.  bit  ^f  dried  ,„eat.  ninkin^. 
Itself  known  by  tlie  long,  thin  tail  -curled  like 
a  K:rape  tendril."  *- 

Let  the  bewildering,  dazing,  tiresome,  instruc 
tive  day  pass  Let  this  city  of  splendor  and 
sqnalor,  ot  Oriental  wealth  and  barbaric  gran- 
deur, fade  ont  of  sight  ;  bnt  the  n.eniorv  of  its 
sininiering  cookery,  its  verniillion  signboards,  its 
bustling  crowds,  its  seething  streets,  its  bla/e 
and  glitter  Its  beautiful  and  abominable  si.rj.ts 
and  Its  indescribable  odors  will  linger  iif  the 
mind  in  all  the  years  to  come. 


' 


I  !'• 


1 1'' 


I 


t 


h 


XXI 


MORE   ABOUT  CHINA 


I'.      ! 


^i 


I: 


AS  we  are  about  to  leave  Hong  Kong  a  few 
comments  on  Chinese  peculiarities  seem 
to  be  in  order.  The  filth  of  these  Chinese  cities 
invites  all  forms  of  epidemic  diseases  ;  the  mor- 
tality is  often  very  great ;  but  one  is  not  sur- 
prised that  many  die  in  these  vile  abodes,  only 
that  any  persons  live.  Surely  one  poison  must 
neutralize  another,  or  no  one  could  survive. 

Chinese  Traits. — The  opium-smoking  Clii- 
naman  is  readily  detected.  This  vice  leaves  its 
mark  in  bleared  eyes,  sallow  features,  unsteady 
step,  and  general  collapse.  To  explain  her  po\'- 
erty,  a  poor  Chinese  woman  has  only  to  say, 
"  My  husband  is  an  opium  smoker."  This  is 
almost  the  only  form  of  stimulant  used  by  the 
Chinese.  Men  intoxicated  by  liquor  are  very 
rare ;  of  that  vice  Europeans  have  a  monopoly, 
and  many  of  their  ailments  in  tropical  lands, 
which  they  attribute  to  the  climate,  are  due  to 
their  indulgence  in  spirituous  liquors.  Britain 
has  forced  the  opium  trade  on  China,  and  it 
flourishes  to  the  dishonor  of  Britain,  of  China, 
and  of  humanity.  For  this  vice  there  seems  to 
be  little  hope  of  cure.  Japan  does  well  to  for- 
252 


'i  f 


/I  • 


MORE    ABOUT   CHINA 


:hi- 


ids, 
to 


It 

Ina, 
to 


253 


!  h  ;| 


bid  under  heavy  penalties  ti.e  illicit  introduction 
of  opium,  and  she  will  i?ot  make  it  legal,  except 
for  speeiiied  purposes. 

A  queer  creature  is  Jolni  Chinaman  as  one 
sees  him  in  Hong  Kong  and  Canton.  Each 
John  resembles  the  other.  There  he  stands  with 
his  shaved  liead  and  pigtail,  his  loose  cloth 
blouse,  iiaif  shirt  and  half  jacket,  his  thick- 
soled  shoes — a  unique,  smart,  cuiniing,  danger- 
ous, enigmatical  creature.  When  the  Chinese 
meet  each  shakes  lils  own  hand.  The  women 
are  seen  on  all  the  boats  wearing  trousers  and 
the  men  wearing  a  sort  of  skirt.  The  hair  of 
the  men  reaches  in  some  instances  to  their  feet ; 
but  the  hair  of  the  women  is  tied  tightly  around 
their  heads. 

As  Mr.  Ballon  remarks,  the  spoken  language 
is  never  written,  and  the  written  language  is 
never  spoken.  White  is  the  color  of  mourning, 
black  of  rejoicing.  Dinner  is  begun  with  the 
dessert  and  ended  with  substantial  food.  The 
Chinese  mariner's  compass  points  to  the  south 
and  not  to  the  north  pole.  Tlie  Chinaman 
mounts  a  horse  on  the  right,  and  not  on  the  left 
side.  Chinese  men  carry  fans  ;  the  women  do 
not.  When  noc  in  use,  the  fan  is  thrust  in  the 
back  of  his  neck,  leaving  the  handle  to  protrude. 

The  Chinaman  and  his  vast  country  have  been 
hidden  from  view  by  a  false  conservatism  ;  but 
that  is  disappearing.  The  extravagant  ideas 
long  entertained  of  the  Celestial  lunpire  are 
finding  correction,  and  the  world  is  finding  out 
the  true  Chinaman  in  his  vices  and  virtues  alike. 


:i't 


1     I 


li' 


m 


'l'4 


■t   i     "'  : 


v^Jii; 


*i 


I!  >  J  'I  hn 

-   ,v,'  ,• 


\fl,  jl, 


r   \'i 


ft 

Lt. 


'   I 


r  ' 


ki 


If  ■ 

'•    i  ' 
.■1 

■,    'I 


)fr 


254 


AROUND  thb:  world 


I  wish  to  write  with  absolute  fairness.  In  do- 
mestic comfort  and  personal  cleanliness  the  Chi- 
nCvSe  are  far  behind  the  Japanese  ;  but  in  avoid- 
ance of  nudity  they  are  far  ahead  of  the  Japa- 
nese. Of  couse,  a  vacation  tourist  cannot  see 
the  best  specimens  of  either  nation  ;  Orienuti 
exclusiveness  shuts  away  the  best  specimens  of 
Chinese  women,  and  this  is  well  understood. 
The  Japanese  give  you  a  sense  of  kinship  quite 
unknown  when  you  meet  the  Chinese.  Cooked 
food  is  placed  near  the  dead  ;  but  a  similar  cus- 
tom may  be  seen  at  Genoa,  at  Pisa,  and  in  other 
countries  where  Romanism  is  dominant.  The 
Chinaman  has  made  swine  sacred,  but  the  Hindu 
deifies  cows  and  monkeys. 

There  is  another  side  to  the  Chinese  charac- 
ter. In  many  of  the  cities  of  China  there  are 
philanthropic  societies  which  will  take  rank 
with  those  of  Europe  and  America.  This 
strano-e  people  comprise  a  great  share  of  the  hu- 
man race.  The  peculiarities  and  difficulties  of 
the  Chinese  language  help  to  shut  out  the  peo- 
ple from  the  knowledge  of  other  nations,  and 
their  enormous  self-conceit  adds  to  the  same  re- 
sult. No  nation  but  the  Japanese  has  ever  bor- 
rowed from  the  Chinese  language.  It  was  prob- 
ably composed  originally  of  hieroglyphics,  which 
eventually  came  to  be  symbolic  as  the  language 
now  stands. 

But  it  must  not  be  forgotten  that  the  Chinese 
have  had  a  great  history.  They  were  a  learned 
people  wlien  the  great  nations  of  to-day  were 
barbarians.     The  Japanese  borrowed  their  Ian- 


:. 


MORE   ABOUT   CHINA 


255 


o;uao;e, 


their  literature,  their  pliilosophy,  and 
their  religion  largely  from  the  Chinf^'  \  Chinese 
records  go  back  to  the  days  of  Abrunani.  Print- 
ing by  movable  types  was  known  in  China  five 
hundred  years  before  printing  was  known  in 
Europe.  In  geography,  astronomy,  and  allied 
branches,  China  was  early  far  advanced,  and 
learning  is  still  honored  and  considerably  dif- 
fused. The  percentage  of  illiteracy  is  far  lower 
in  China  than  in  such  Roman  Catholic  countries 
as  Spain,  Italy,  and  Mexico.  Civil  service  ex- 
aminations are  marvelously  rigid.  A  knowledge 
of  the  use  of  gunpowder  and  of  the  magnetic 
compass  went  from  China  to  Fvurope,  probably 
by  way  of  Asia  Minor  or  the  Red  Sea.  China 
has  had  a  great  past ;  God  grant  that  she  may 
have  a  great,  a  Christian  futur^.  It  would  not 
be  surprising  if  God  should,  by  marvelous  over- 
turning in  this  land  of  hoary  tradition,  shake 
the  country  to  its  foundations  ;  it  would  not  be 
surprising  if  European  nations  should  yet  get  a 
foothold  here,  and  perhaps  divide  the  country 
among  themselves  to  the  great  advantage  of  all 
the  interests  of  civilization,  humanity,  and  Chris- 
tianity. 

Thk  Massacres. — Just  at  the  time  of  this 
visit  all  Europeans  in  the  East  were  terribly 
bitter  against  China  because  of  the  Satanic  Ku- 
cheng  massacre.  Nine  of  the  missionary  band 
were  killed  outright,  and  two  died  afterward, 
w^hile  four  more  w^re  cut  and  hacked  by  spears 
and  tridents.     This  was  not  a  sudden  orlbreak 


1 


I* 


(» 


(i 


3    /   ! 


■■! 


III 


i:     •* 


?l' 


f.. 


Ill 


2.S6 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


"t 


•fl  h 


I 


I'  i    I 


Fr  I 


i\m 


M 


'!■ 


111  iv 


of  spasmodic  ferocity  a<^ainst  the  foreip^ner ;  it 
was  rather  a  deliberately  planned  and  desper- 
ately wicked  attempt  to  work  a  hellish  cruelty 
on  innocent  foreigners.  It  was  in  no  small  part 
another  "slaughter  of  the  innocents."  The 
missionaries  gave  absolutely  no  provocation. 
America  and  Great  Britain  have  been  too  lenient 
with  China.  She  has  sent  cultured  gentlemen 
to  represent  her  in  London  and  Washington,  and 
the  governments  of  both  countries  have  judged 
the  nation  by  these  representatives. 

It  will  not  do  for  our  countries  to  allow  China 
to  punish  a  few  hired  coolies  who  were  at  most 
only  the  less  guilty  instruments  in  the  barbarity  ; 
the  real  authors  must  be  found  and  punished. 
China  must  be  made  to  feel  that  she  cannot  trifle 
with  Britain  and  America,  cannot  trifle  with  the 
civilization  of  this  century.  She  must  be  made 
to  feel  the  only  power  which  she  is  capable  of 
feeling.  We  have  too  often  treated  her  as  if  she 
were  fully  civilized,  and  she  has  too  often  taught 
us  that,  in  important  respects,  she  is  still  wholly 
barbaric.  I  have  no  sympathy  with  the  remark 
I  am  constantly  hearing,  '  '^hina  is  not  worth 
saving,"  neither  have  I  syi..  athy  with  a  sickly 
sentimentalism  which  refuses  to  hold  China  up 
to  the  scorn  of  the  world  and  to  the  hand  of 
justice  for  her  crimes. 

The  Chinese  fled  like  sheep  before  the  Japa- 
nese soldiers ;  but,  though  cowards  then,  they 
became  wonderfully  brave  when,  as  bullies  and 
murderers,  they  attacked  helpless  women  and 
children.     They   have   earned   the   contempt  of 


MORE    ABOUT   CHINA 


257 


ht 


rk 


ot 


)a- 


id 

of 


the  world.  The  g-ospcl  of  Clirist  can  save  even 
Cliina  and  make  her  fnlnre  a  thonsand-fold  more 
resplendent  than  her  traditional  and  vvonderfnl 
past.  The  inflnences  of  the  gospel  are  her  only 
hope  ;  only  these  will  break  np  the  conservatism 
of  centnries  and  lead  China  ont  into  the  highway 
of  prosperity  among  the  civilized  nations.  Di- 
vine providence  is  already  using  the  war  with 
Japan  to  show  Cluna  the  inferiority  of  her 
ancient  and  heathen  civilization  in  comparison 
to  that  of  the  great  Christian  European  nations. 

Leaving  Hong  koNG. — From  Hong  Kong 
pathways  over  the  sea  radiate  in  many  direc- 
tions ;  from  this  point  the  traveler  may  take 
ship  to  any  country  on  the  globe,  may  start  to 
"  all  the  ends  of  the  earth  " — Singapore,  Penang, 
Java,  Sumatra,  Ceylon,  Australia,  New  Zealand, 
the  great  tropical  realm  of  the  South  Sea,  all 
parts  of  India  and  Burma,  with  their  cities  of 
IVIadras,  Calcutta,  Bombay,  and  Rangoon,  and 
other  cities  and  countries  too  numerous  to  men- 
tion. These  all  lie  before  the  traveler,  and  the 
particular  places  he  may  wish  to  visit  will  deter- 
mine his  route  from  this  point  or  from  Colombo. 
What  a  new  world  opens  to  the  imagination  as 
these  new  quarters  of  the  globe  are  suggested  ! 
How  real  the  old  names  of  boyhood's  geography 
become  when  you  are  actually  at  some  of  the 
places  and  are  heading  for  others  which  hitherto 
had  a  name,  but  only  sn  ill-defined  local  habita- 
tion ! 

On  Thursday,  August  15,  at  one  o'clock,  we 


\     I 


k  ■ 


m 


lU) 


ili'' 


i 

! 
ii' 

A 


I: 


=^MP 


} ''  • 


'I:  ,  ^ 


,0 


n 


\. 


'!    ,1 


8        j-i  I 


258 


AROUND   THE   WORi    J 


left  Hong  Kong  for  Singapore,  i'enang,  and 
Colombo,  on  board  the  good  steamer  "  Kaisar-i- 
Hind,"  of  the  P.  &  O.  S.  N.  Co.  This  ship  was 
named  in  honor  of  Qneen  Victoria,  bearing  her 
latest  title,  "  Kaisar-i-Hind,"  which,  being  inter- 
preted, means  "  Empress  of  India."  When 
lannched,  in  1878,  it  was  probably  the  largest 
ship  afloat ;  it  wasthe  yacht  of  the  P.  &  O.  fleet ; 
since  then  some  P.  &  O.  ships,  and  many  of 
other  lines,  have  been  bnilt  which  are  larger  and 
much  finer.  But  she  is  still  a  noble  ship  and 
worthy  of  the  honor  which  the  queen  conferred 
by  visiting  and  naming  her  when  she  was 
launched.  Pier  able  commander  was  Captain 
Frank  H.  Seymour,  who  had  been  many  years 
in  the  P.  &  O.  service,  and  for  the  last  ten  years 
commander  of  different  ships  belonging  to  this 
great  company.  Captain  Seymour  is  not  only 
an  able  seaman,  but  an  intelligent,  genial,  and 
courteous  gentleman.  He  did  everything  in  his 
power  to  make  this  trip  pleasant  and  profitable. 
All  passengers  holding  through  tickets  are 
guests  of  the  line  in  any  harbor  from  the  time 
of  their  arrival  on  one  ship  to  the  time  of  their 
departure  on  another,  if  they  remain  on  board. 
In  harmony  with  this  rule,  two  gentlemen,  one 
for  Penang  and  one  for  Colombo,  were  transferred, 
with  the  writer,  in  the  company's  steam  launch 
from  the  "Verona"  to  the  "Kaisar-i-Hind."  So 
were  a  family  occupying  the  second  cabin,  who 
were  returning  to  Australia.  Of  course,  when  we 
left  the  ship  to  go  sight-seeing,  we  ourselves  had 
to  provide  for  our  entertainment. 


^  I  ir 


MORK    ABOUT   CHINA 


259 


his 
ible. 

are 
;ime 
[heir 
)ard. 

one 
:red, 

inch 
vSo 
Kvho 
li  we 

had 


Four  young  English  midshipmen  came  on 
board  at  Hong  Kong ;  they  had  been  on  the 
warsliip  "  Leander  "  and  had  been  ordered  back 
to  England  to  be  transferred  to  another  branch 
of  the  naval  service.  They  proved  to  be  agree- 
able young  men  as  fellow-passengers.  A  young 
Cliinaman  was  also  a  passenger;  he  evidently 
belonged  to  some  one  of  the  better  classes  of  his 
countrymen.  Not  being  able  to  speak  English, 
and  taking  his  meals  in  his  cabin,  he  must  have 
had  a  somewhat  lonely  trip,  but  he  seemed  to  be 
sufficiently  happy  in  his  Chinese  reading  and 
in  his  characteristic  seclusion.  Some  additional 
second  cabin  passengers  came  on  board  at  Hong 
Kong,  but  at  this  season  of  the  year,  in  this  lati- 
tude, it  is  expected  that  travel  will  be  light. 
We  had  not  even  one  lady  passenger  in  the  first 
cabin,  neither  had  we  had  since  Bishop  Walden 
and  his  party  left  us  at  Nagasaki.  Passengers 
in  the  second  cabin  are  more  fortunate.  This 
ship  was  to  sail  from  Bombay,  October  5,  for 
London,  reaching  "home"  about  the  end  of  that 
month.  By  that  time  Captain  Seymour  and  the 
other  officers  would  have  been  absent  from  their 
families  about  one  year.  Certainly  these  long 
absences,  and  occasionally  they  are  considerably 
longer,  make  the  lives  of  seamen  in  the  Orient 
anything  but  enviable. 

Orientals  Aboard. — Some  of  the  waiters  on 
board  the  "Kaisar"  were  an  interesting  group. 
They  were  Goanese,  the  nescendants  of  Portu- 
guese adventurers,  who  settled  about  two  hun- 


t 


i.   t 


26o 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


a  ■ 


■' . 


;di     <    ! 


I    I 


dred  miles  from  Bombay  and  married  native 
women.  Tlieir  descendants  have  intermarried, 
so  that  the  two  original  lines  have  been  many 
times  crossed  and  recrossed.  They  are  still  Ro- 
manists in  faith,  that  faith  having  been  trans- 
planted by  their  Portnguese  ancestors  to  the  soil 
of  their  Indian  home,  and  they  still  possess  char- 
acteristics of  speech  and  manner  inherited  from 
their  Portnguese  fathers  and  their  Indian  moth- 
ers. A  partially  corrupted  Portuguese  language 
is  spoken  by  them  ;  the  Indian  is  spoken  also, 
so  is  the  G  oanese,  which  is  in  part  a  mixture 
of  the  other  two  tongues.  Many  of  them  now 
speak  English.  In  their  dark  jackets  and  white 
trou.seis  they  look  tidy,  and  they  render  prompt 
and  efficient  service. 

During  my  last  two  voyages  my  cabin  stew- 
ards were  Chinamen,  and  there  was  no  fault  to 
be  found  with  their  conduct  or  service.  But  it 
was  nevertheless  an  agreeable  change  on  this 
boat  to  have  for  cabin  steward  a  )oung  Scotch- 
man with  the  suggestive  name  of  MacDonald. 
On  the  whole  it  is  a  name  preferable  to  Ah  Sin 
or  Wong  Lung.  There  surely  is  no  serious  ob- 
jection to  having  a  steward  who  can  fully  under- 
stand and  be  fully  understood. 

Our  sailors  were  the  most  picturesque  sailors 
I  have  ever  seen ;  they  were  in  this  respect — 
perhaps  in  all  respects — a  great  improvement 
on  the  Chinamen  wlio  were  the  sailors  on  my 
last  two  ocean  trips.  The  dull  colors  and  un- 
sightly shapes  of  their  ill-fitting  and  nondescript 
garments,  not  to  mention  undesirable  (qualities 


11. 


,  I 


l! 


i 


!  V 


MORIv    AHOUT    CHINA 


261 


bin 
ob- 


lors 
:t— 
lent 
my 
tm- 
[ript 
Ities 


ill  their  persons,  contrast  <i^reatly  to  tlie  disad- 
vanta^^^e  of  the  Cliinese,  with  the  bright  colors, 
tidy  outfit,  and  alert  movcnients  of  the  Lascars, 
who  were  the  sailors  on  tiie  "  Kaisar."  It  is  ad- 
mitted, however,  thai:  the  Chinese  when  properly 
officered  make  competent,  faithful,  and  even 
brave  sailors. 

The  word  Lascar  properly  sij^nifics  a  "camp 
follower,"  but  is  now  <i;^enerally  applied  to  nalive 
sailors  on  British  ships.  They  often  arc  the 
descendants  of  a  race  of  pirates.  They  inherit 
a  love  for  the  sea;  they  also  inherit  daring, 
skill,  and  endurance ;  but  they  are  naturally 
irritable  and  of  a  revengeful  nature.  Their 
appearance  is  very  striking.  They  are  of  aver- 
age height,  or  a  little  over,  arc  slenderly  built, 
erect  and  alert,  and  are  wiry,  merry  fellows  to 
an  unusual  degree.  They  attract  immediate 
attention  as  one  comes  on  board ;  and  they 
evoke  appreciation  as  one  studies  their  sea-going 
qualities.  Dressed  in  a  cap  of  straw,  partially 
covered  by  a  bright  red  turban,  with  a  long  white 
or  blue  garment  over  white  trousers,  a  red,  or 
yellow  and  red  handkerchief  as  a  sash,  and  with 
bare  brown  feet,  they  are  truly  picturesque. 
Many  nations  of  the  Plast  love  bright  colors,  and 
many  of  them  show  nniqne  taste  in  their  combi- 
nation of  colors.  The  bare  feet  of  the  sailors 
admirably  fit  them  for  climbing  ropes  and  stand- 
ing in  dangerous  places.  Their  feet  grip  almost 
as  readily  as  their  hands  ;  they  are  almost  an- 
other pair  of  hands.  Even  when  attending  to 
the  routine  duties  of  sailors  they  have  a  firmness 


'. '  il 


'  \ 


;  i 


W''    ] 


:■( 


il 


!  . 


II; 


262 


AROUND    TIIK    WORLD 


./., 


I  >{ 


\h      .    , 


of  step,  crcctiicss  of  carriage,  and  dignity  of  gen- 
eral deportment  most  pleasing  to  ol)scrve. 

Formerly  there  were  sailing  ships  manned  by 
these  natives  in  which  their  yonth  were  trained 
for  more  important  service  ;  but  now  the  P.  (S: 
O.  Company  takes  the  boys  into  its  service  and 
trains  them  for  the  varions  positions  which  they 
show  ability  to  fill.  The  sailors  on  board  come 
from  different  places  in  the  northern  part  of 
India.  That  great  country  is  destined  in  many 
ways  to  fill  a  large  place  in  the  commerce  and 
general  business  of  the  world.  All  countries 
with  an  extensive  seaboard  train  sailors. 


XXII 


SINGAPORE 


WHEN  one  has  to  spend  r-^urtccn  clays  on 
the  same  steamer  he  lightly  takes  pains 
in  the  selection  of  his  cabin.  On  this  vova"-e 
the  nnniber  of  passengers  was  so  small  for  a 
large  ship  that  great  latitnde  was  allowed  in 
choosing  a  cabin.  Indeed,  the  privilege  'vas 
granted  the  writer  to  change  his  cabin  as  he  de- 
sired so  as  to  avoid  snn  and  spray  and  to  secnre 
the  greatest  degree  of  air  and  coolness. 


r 


A  Floating  Homk. — The  cabin  chosen  M'as 
spacions  ;  reasonably  large  for  fonr,  it  was  agree- 
ably roomy  for  one.  Upon  taking  possession  of 
it  for  so  long  a  trip  there  was  the  natnral  desire 
to  make  it  as  houiclike  as  possible.  Garments 
were  shaken  out  and  hung  up ;  "  penates  "  and 
"  genii "  in  the  form  of  family  pictures  and 
favorite  books  were  displayed,  and  so  the  voyage 
over  the  China  Sea  and  the  gulf  of  Siam  was 
begun. 

Five  days  after  we  left  Hong  Kong  the  rug- 
ged shores  of  the  Malay  Peninsula  came  in  sight 
as  we  plowed  through  the  placid  waters  for 
Singapore,  which  we  would  soon  reach.  The 
days  had  been  very  pleasant.     Sitting  on   the 

263 


^^HuS 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-S) 


/. 


1.0 


I.I 


^  i^    1112.2 

"  lis  lllio 


mm 


1.25      u    |||i^ 

-^ 

6"     

► 

v: 


^ 


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^/. 


'/ 


W 


Photographic 

Sciences 
Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WEBSTER,  NY.  14580 

(716)  872-4503 


264 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


r'fnfn^ 


.*   ;c 


Ik, 


spacious  quarterdeck,  under  the  awning,  which 
protected  from  the  sun  but  admitted  the  breeze, 
it  was  difficult  to  realize  that  we  were  out  on  the 
China  Sea  and  not  on  the  piazza  of  a  first-class 
seashore  hotel. 

There  was  much  time  for  reading.  Light  but 
good  literature  received  attention,  literature 
which  at  home,  it  is  felt,  must  be  for  the  most 
part  set  aside.  But  no  student  can  afford  to 
neglect  the  great  authors.  No  musician  can 
afford  to  hear  only  second-class  music  ;  he  must 
study  and  hear  the  great  masters.  So  we  must 
read  the  great  mast^Ts  of  prose  and  poetry. 
There  ought  to  be,  and  there  was  on  this  trip, 
the  reading  of  almost  daily  portions  from  Shakes- 
peare, Tennyson,  and  other  immortal  writers. 
There  was  time  for  writing  also ;  several  news- 
paper letters  were  written  on  board  different 
ships.  There  was  time  for  meditation  on  God 
and  duty.  In  our  busy,  work-a-day  lives  there  is 
far  too  little  opportunity  for  quiet  and  fruitful 
meditation.  There  was  also  planning  for  many 
forms  of  aggressive  work.  Sitting  by  my  cabin 
porthole,  not  the  ordinary  port,  but  one  nearly 
two  feet  square,  watching  the  quiet  sea,  great 
thoughts  of  work  pressed  on  mind  and  heart, 
but  rest,  genuine  rest,  was  experienced.  In  such 
an  experience  lines  of  weariness  go  out  of  the 
face,  ozone  fills  the  lungs,  iron  the  blood,  courage 
the  will,  and  gratitude  the  heart. 


k 


Half-way  Around  the  World. — At  8  p.  m. 
Monday,  August  19,  4°  12'  north  latitude,  106° 


■w 


SING  A  PORK 


265 


east  longitude,  I  was  just  half  around  the  world 
from  New  York  as  the  storting-point.  During 
all  this  journey  there  had  not  been  a  moment  of 
sickness,  not  really  a  moment  of  discomfort;  tlie 
oft-dreaded  mal  dc  mcr\\2^i\  not  been  experienced 
even  in  the  slightest  degree ;  not  a  connection 
had  been  missed,  and  not  a  disappointment  ex- 
perienced. Kind  friends  abounded  and  the  good- 
ness of  God  in  a  thousand  ways  had  been  mani- 
fested. In  such  circumstances  even  an  ingrate 
might  be  grateful.  None  of  tlie  fears  entertained 
by  solicitous  friends  regarding  the  possibility  of 
typhoons  in  the  China  Sea,  althougli  there  was 
one  the  week  before  I  sailed,  nor  regarding  the 
expected  great  heat,  were  realized.  At  this  point 
we  were  out  of  the  China  Sea  and  out  of  the 
gulf  of  Siam,  and  typhoons  were  not  expected. 

We  were  only  a  few  degrees  north  of  the 
equator,  and  yet  in  the  evening,  while  walking 
on  the  deck,  a  reasonably  heavy  coat  was  not  un- 
comfortable. We  passed  tlirough  the  seas  where 
waterspouts  are  occasionally  seen,  and  had  this 
journey  been  made  in  December  with  a  north- 
east monsoon  ])ehind  us,  instead  of  in  August 
with  the  wind  in  the  opposite  quarter,  we  miglit 
have  been  gratified  with  the  sight  of  one  while 
running  off  the  gulf  of  Siam ,  but  obliging 
though  Captain  Seymour  was,  he  had  to  draw 
the  line  at  the  waterspout. 

It  certainly  was  deeply  interesting  to  realize 
that  the  Philippine  Islands  were  off  on  our  le^t, 
that  Borneo  was  on  our  port  bow,  and  that  as  we 
neared  the  equatorial  line  the  ship  was  headed 


;i 


I,-,! 


)■ 


f 


! 


■ 


% 

V 

I. 

;4 


266 


AROUND   TIIR   WORLD 


•  1 


I       f; ' 


for  the  mouth  of  the  straits  1>  in^  between  the 
Malay  Peninsula  and  the  island  of  Sumatra.  We 
were  thus,  with  quiet  seas,  open  ports,  and  glad 
hearts,  nearing  Singapore,  the  most  southerly 
point  of  Asia. 

The  Capital  ok  the  Straits  Settle- 
ments.— Singapore  is  situated  at  the  mouth  of 
the  Malacca  Straits.  On  the  charts  another 
point  is  called  the  most  southerly  point  of  Asia, 
Singapore  being  an  island  and  not  reckoned  in 
that  classification  as  if  it  were  on  the  mainland  ; 
but  Singapore  is  nevertlieless  really  the  most 
southerly  point  of  Asia.  The  great  majority  of 
ships  to  and  from  the  East  touch  at  Singapore. 
This  fact  gives  importance  to  this  place.  Much 
cargo  is  taken  on  and  put  off  here  ;  it  is  also  an 
important  coaling  station  for  steamers  following 
various  routes  to  and  from  the  East.  Singapore 
is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  a  strait  per- 
haps not  more  than  a  quarter  of  a  mile  wide. 
The  approach  to  the  harbor  is  very  picturesque ; 
many  islands  are  scattered  about  it,  thickly 
wooded  and  rising  from  the  sea  in  rounded 
hills. 

As  we  came  to  the  wharf  our  steamer  was 
quickly  surrounded  by  Malay  boys  in  boats 
which  were  the  merest  shells;  only  those  skilled 
in  the  management  of  them  could  remain  in 
them  for  even  a  few  minutes  without  capsizing. 
The  boys  were  on  their  knees  and  propelled 
their  little  boats  with  paddles.  Soon  they  were 
calling  out  in  broken  English  : 


SINGAPORE 


2(1 


267 


"  Have  a  dive  ?  dive  for  a  ntpcc^  for  twenty 
cents,  for  ten,  for  five,  for  a  penny.  Fire  away ! 
a  penny,  a  penny !  Come,  now  !  Here's  a  dive, 
a  big  dive  !  " 

Coins  were  thrown  into  the  water  by  a  nnni- 
ber  of  passengers,  and  immediately  there  was  a 
great  splash,  the  boats  were  all  emptied,  and  the 
boys  were  strnggling  and  plunging  in  the  water. 
Sometimes  all  of  them  were  out  of  sight.  Then 
they  emerged,  one  of  them  triumphantly  hold- 
ing the  coin  in  his  teeth.  Most  deftly  would 
they  put  one  hand  in  the  center  of  the  boat,  and 
then  with  a  spring  they  would  again  be  in  their 
places  in  the  boat,  again  repeating  their  calls 
and  their  dives  as  often  as  coin  was  thrown  into 
the  sea.  Sometimes  they  would  utter  their  cries 
loudly  and  entreatingly  in  a  sort  of  rude  chorus. 
This  they  kept  up  at  times  as  long  as  the  steamer 
remained  at  the  wharf,  and  when  it  was  about  to 
sail  the  next  day  they  came  in  larger  numbers 
and  produced  greater  clamor.  Their  brother 
divers  of  the  Hawaiian  Islands  are  equally  ex- 
pert as  swimmers  and  divers,  but  they  did  not 
use  boats  in  harvesting  their  pennies,  being 
able  to  remain  often  for  hours  in  the  water  sim- 
ply by  using  their  hands  and  feet.  Other  boats 
containing  parrots  and  other  birds  of  brilliant 
plumage,  and  still  other  boats  with  beautiful 
shells,  came  alongside  of  the  steamer,  soliciting 
us  to  make  purchases. 

A  ride  was  taken  with  Captain  Seymour  into 
the  town  of  Singapore,  which  is  about  three 
miles  from  the  boat-landing.     We  were  drawn 


.•'.11! 


W 


\\ 


•« 


(.' 


y  1 


t 


. 


268 


AROUND    THK    WORM) 


l**< 


I  •" 


over  the  .smooth  roacl  by  a  very  little  horse, 
which  seemed  too  small  to  perform  this  task, 
but  the  carria^%  thoii}.^h  lar<;e,  was  lij^ht,  and 
the  road  was  excellent.  Kvidences  that  we  were 
in  a  tropical  climate  abounded  on  both  sides  of 
the  road.  There  were  luxuriant  palm  trees  of 
many  species,  some  of  them  laden  with  cocoa- 
nuts  and  other  fruits  of  the  palm  family  ;  there 
were  hedijes  of  j^rovvin}^  rattans,  neatly  clipped  ; 
and  there  were  ji^roves  of  bananas  and  other  tropi- 
cal fruits. 

We  observed  that  the  liouses,  some  of  them 
larj^e  and  somewhat  pretentious,  and  occupied 
by  European  and  other  officials,  and  occasionally 
by  Parsees,  were  built  on  piles  and  raised  a  con- 
siderable distance  above  the  <^round.  This  is 
done  as  a  protection  aq^ainst  snakes,  scorpions, 
spiders,  lizards,  and  other  kinds  of  poisonous 
vermin  ;  in  the  earlier  days  perhaps  ])rotection 
a<jainst  the  then  dreaded  ti^^^er  was  another  reason. 
One  learns  in  visitin<^  many  countries  tha;  local 
peculiarities  are  usually  founded  on  <i;^ood  reasons. 

Lar^e  numbers  of  carts  drawn  by  little  hump- 
shouldered  oxen,  and  laden  with  boxes  and  bales 
from  the  steamer,  were  passed  on  the  road. 
These  oxen  were  like  the  sacred  cattle  which 
the  small  boy  has  so  often  admired  at  the  circus 
or  the  menao^erie.  A  cord  is  passed  throuy^h  the 
cartilage  of  the  nose,  and  to  it  reins  are  attached 
with  which  the  animals  are  driven.  Their 
horns,  for  the  most  part,  slope  back  at  an  angle 
of  about  forty-five  degrees,  and  are  often  painted 
blue,  and  sometimes  in  difTerent  colors,  forming 


SI  NCI  A  PORK 


269 


sonic  sort  of  a  dcsirrn.  Tlicy,  like  the  little 
Morses,  are  si)irite(l  creatures,  and  when  driven 
singly  in  harness,  as  they  occasionally  are,  will 
^o  alon*;  at  a  lively  trot.  In  Japan  oxen  are 
shod  with  shoes  made  of  rice  straw  ;  but  in  vSin- 
j^apore  they  are  shod  with  neat  iron  shoes.  They 
have  often  bells  about  their  heads,  and  occasion- 
ally a  bit  of  ornament  in  brij^ht  colors. 

Their  drivers  are  mostly  Malays  or  Tamils, 
with  scarlet  turbans  and  a  piece  of  brij^ht  red 
cloth  about  their  bodies  ;  the  few  clothes  they 
wear  are  of  the  britrhtest  colors.  Thev  wear 
more  clothinji^  than  do  the  Japanese  coolies,  and 
the  bright  colors  make  them  much  more  pictur- 
esque. It  was  a  pleasure  to  see  oxen  and 
horses  so  much  in  use  in  Singapore.  In  Japan 
and  China  men  are  made  beasts  of  burden,  Alan- 
hood  there  is  cheaper  than  cattle.  It  is  a  step 
up  in  civilization  when  cattle  and  not  men  are 
made  beasts  of  burden.  In  China  man  is  brutal- 
ized by  doing  the  work  of  a  brute  ;  so  in  part, 
but  not  to  so  great  a  degree,  in  Japan. 

The  houses  in  the  town  proper  are  substan- 
tial structures  of  brick  or  of  coarse  plaster. 
The  latter  are  covered  with  a  blue  or  yellow 
lime-wash  which  gives  a  very  striking  appear- 
ance, though  perhaps  in  coml)ination  of  colors 
not  very  aesthetic.  All  the  shops  are  largely 
open  to  the  street ;  their  floors  are  of  terra  cotta, 
and  they  all  have  arcades,  or,  as  they  are  called 
here,  verandas,  over  the  walk.  One  can  thus 
walk  from  shop  to  shop  protected  from  the  heat 
of  the  sun. 


V." 


'It 

t 

i 

t 

I     ) 

^ 


r 


V 


AROUND   TlIK    WORLD 


r..'> 


;    ( 


*,i:, 


Till*:  CiiiNKSK  Again. — Cliinaincn  abound 
here,  as  tlicre  are  no  restrictions  npon  their  coni- 
in<^.  Their  sliops  are  nunierons.  Chinamen  are 
in  banks  and  business  offices ;  tliey  carry  heavy 
loads  through  the  streets;  and  they  run  with  the 
c\\\\\\i^y  Jinrikis/tas.  Tlie  Chinese  are  a  patient, 
ploddin<r,  indi-strions  population  They  con- 
tribute in  no  small  degree  to  the  prosperity  of 
Singapore,  and  many  other  places  along  this  ex- 
tended coast.  Let  us  give  them  credit  for  their 
industry. 

Here,  as  in  the  Hawaiian  Islands,  they  are 
crowding  tlie  natives  to  the  wall.  They  are 
always  in  a  hurry,  as  you  see  them  on  the  street. 
They  have  an  object ;  they  are  here  to  make 
money,  and  then  to  go  home  to  live  in  ease  and 
honor.  The  natives  are  the  idle  children  of 
nature  ;  more  than  suificient  to  them  is  the  work 
of  the  day,  and  they  care  nothing  for  the  mor- 
row. The  Chinaman  will  do  the  work  of  to-day, 
and  will  soon  lay  up  sufficient  money  for  many 
to-morrows.  A  cold  climate  and  an  inhospitable 
soil  seem  necessary  to  call  out  the  highest  energy 
of  most  men.  Nature,  when  too  generous  with 
her  gifts  of  fruits  and  fertility,  makes  her  chil- 
dren lazy,  thriftless,  and  comparatively  worth- 
less. 

Chinese  women  were  seen  hobbling  about  with 
deformed  feet.  They  are  pitiable  creatures. 
They  walk  simply  on  the  heel,  not  really  walk, 
but  only  "  peg  "  about,  looking  as  if  at  any  mo- 
ment they  might  topple  over.  Some  assist  them- 
selves with  a  cane,  and  some  require  help  from 


M  ( 


'.!!/, 


SIXCiAPORK 


271 


others;  they  cannot  move  their  ankle  or  knee 
joints,  bnt  only  the  joints  of  the  thij^h.  Per- 
haps tlie  (lea  is  that  ladies  of  quality  shall  not 
walk  at  r.ll.  Some  were  seen  riding  behind 
closely-driwn  cnrtains.  Tonrists  rarely  see  any 
women  of  the  hij^her  walks  in  social  life,  and 
that  fact  oaj^lit  alwavs  to  be  borne  in  mind  when 
judgement  is  passed  in  these  Oriental  conntries 
on  the  women  whom  the  traveler  sees  in  public. 

Peddlers  <go  \.\\xo\v^\  tlie  streets  sellinj^  sonp, 
fruit,  and  a  jelly  made  from  seaweed,  and  called 
'■'•  agaragar''\'  they  sometimes  have  on  one  end 
of  the  pole  on  their  shoulders  a  sort  of  stove  to 
cook  the  food,  and  on  the  other  end  a  kind  of 
table,  and  they  supply,  for  about  two  cents,  a 
meal  to  the  coolies  who  coal  the  ships  and  to  the 
drivers  of  the  oxen.  In  the  market  a  great 
variety  of  fruits  and  vegetables  was  seen  ;  among 
the  fruits  was  the  delicious  maugostccny  which 
Mr.  Ballon  calls  "  the  seductive  apple  of  the 
East."  He  tells  us  that  it  is  not  found  indige- 
nous in  any  other  country. 

The  Botanical  Garden  is  spoken  of  as  con- 
taining a  remarkable  collection  of  tropical  fruits 
and  flowers.  There  is  a  good  museum  and  a 
valuable  public  library.  The  Anglican  Church 
has  its  cathedral,  and  the  Presbyterian,  Metho- 
dist, and  Dutch  Churches  have  organizations 
and  mission  stations.  Most  of  the  Malays  are 
Mohammedans.  The  Tamils  are  almost  as  dark 
as  Negroes,  but  without  the  very  thick  lip  and 
the  flat  nose. 

Singapore   is   a   busy  and   prosperous   place. 


i(i 


\v 


%. 


i 


i. 


f 


'*    *i  I 
h  "'   'I 


:i 


■      i' 


272 


ARorxr)  Till-:  would 


Kuropcans  of  many  countries  are  liere  pnsliinj^ 
their  fortunes,  and  many  of  them  are  attachecl 
to  the  town  and  tlie  island.  It  is  about  tlilrtv 
miles  lonjT  and  half  as  many  broad,  and  its 
population  is  said  to  be  about  one  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand.  Its  productions  are  varied,  amon>if 
them  bein^  tapioca,  cocoanut  oil,  ^ambier,  tin, 
indigo,  tij^er  skins,  coral,  gutta  percha,  camphor, 
and  other  things  characteristic  of  tropical  re- 
gions. 

In  former  days  tigers  were  the  great  foe  of 
the  people,  and  to  some  extent  it  is  still  so. 
They  swim  across  the  straits  from  the  mainland, 
hide  in  the  thick  jungles,  and  then  prey  on  the 
people  living  on  the  plantations.  Until  the 
jungles  are  remo\'ed,  the  island  will  not  be  free 
from  the  depredations  of  this  fierce  animal. 
The  word  Singapore,  most  probably  of  Sanskrit 
origin,  means  "  Liontown  " ;  but  in  later  days 
the  terror  of  the  natives  lias  been  the  tiger. 
vSoiiie  years  ago  statistics  show  that  not  fewer 
than  three  hundred  persons  yearly,  out  of  a 
population  of  one  hundred  and  ninety  thousand, 
were  destroyed  by  tigers.  Pits  have  been  dug 
in  which  many  of  them  have  been  cpught,  and 
as  the  island  is  more  fully  cleared  and  inhabited 
they  become  rarer. 

Tropicai.  Hkat. — The  people  who  live  in 
Singapore  speak  of  it  as  being  a  healthful  place. 
Soft  and  fragrant  breezes  blow  from  the  spice- 
bearing  fields  of  the  surrounding  islands.  It  is 
the   home   of   many   kinds  of   beautiful    birds, 


SI  NO  A  PORK 


/v> 


many  varieties  of  insects,  and  many  specimens 
of  rare  shells.  It  is  the  best  place  in  the  world 
in  which  to  make  collections  of  bntterllies.  One 
writer  calls  attention  to  the  fact  that  "the  j;;reat 
j^recn-\vin<;ed  ornithoptera,  the  prince  of  the 
hntterfly  tribe,"  abonnds  here;  and  that  an  en- 
thnsiastic  German  natnralist  had  collected  within 
a  month  over  three  hnndred  ren)prkal)le  speci- 
mens of  beetles  within  a  space  of  two  miles  from 
the  center  of  the  town. 

Here  there  is  no  winter,  no  antnmn  ;  it  is  nn- 
changin<j  snnnner.  No  sooner  does  a  leaf  fall 
than  another  bnd  appears,  and  thns  natnre, 
month  after  month,  lavishes  her  gifts  npon  her 
children  in  Singapore.  This  towri  is  only  abont 
eighty  miles  north  of  the  eqnator  ;  it  onght, 
therefore,  to  be  very  hot ;  and  it  certainly  is  not 
an  Arctic  region.  We  did  not  wear  heavy  nl- 
sters;  bnt  neither  was  it  very  hot.  Against  this 
place,  more  than  any  other,  were  warnings 
given.  Here,  it  was  said,  Knropcans  were  well- 
nigh  roasted ;  here  there  conld  be  no  ])rotection 
against  the  snn's  scorching  rays.  Well,  this 
writer  walked  not  less  than  fonr  miles  in  or 
from  Singapore,  when  retnrning  to  the  steamer, 
on  Wednesday,  Angnst  21,  at  noon,  and  snffercd 
not  one  moment's  inconvenience.  INIonday  fore- 
noon, Jnne  3,  in  New  York,  it  was  ever  so  many 
degrees  hotter  and  ever  so  mnch  more  trying  in 
every  way. 

Tliere  is  a  positive  gain  to  Americans,  who 
are  accnstomed  to  great  snmmer  heat  at  home, 
in  visiting  tropical  conntries  in  snmmer.     They 

s 


■)■ 


<'. 


.1 

01 


('■ 


I 


'I 


14, 


I , 


■T 


n 


'    V 


274 


auotnh  'rill',  would 


find  tlic  atmosplu'tt  jiist  Jihoiil  the  sainc  as  at 
home  if  tlioy  conic  in  snninur ;  hut  il'  llicy  conk- 
in  winter  tlicy  have  had  tlic  cncivalin^^  effects  of 
summer  at  home  and  they  Ih-.d  summer  here,  and 
on  J^oiu};  liome  they  have  summer  a^ain.  'iMiey 
thns  have  tlirec  summers  foilowin;^  one  another; 
and  comiuj^  to  vSinj^apore,  for  instance,  in  De- 
cemher  and  (indinj^  the  thermometer  al)out 
ninety,  tlierc  is  a  depressinj^-  sense  of  contrast 
wliich  makes  the  heat  ahnost  intoierahle.  The 
opinion  just  expressed  is  as  ()ri<;inal  as  it  is 
paradoxical  ;  hut  it  is  as  lionest,  and  jnd'^int;;' 
from  the  writer's  experience,  as  intellij^cnt  as  it 
is  honest  or  jxiradoxical.  Most  writers  wlio 
have  expatiated  on  tlic  <;^reat  heat  of  these  trop- 
ical countries  compare  them  with  parts  of  (icr- 
niany  and  Orcal  Britain  and  not  with  New 
York,  Chica<jo,  and  other  parts  of  America. 

Lar^e  numbers  of  Europeans,  mostly  British, 
as  well  as  natives,  came  down  to  sec  the  ship  ^o 
out  on  Wednesday,  Auo^ust  21,  at  4  r.  m.  It  is 
thorouo^hly  pleasant  when  in  the  ICast  to  be  un- 
der the  British  flajj^,  and  to  sec  the  faces  and  to 
hear  the  voices  of  robust  men  and  fair  women 
speaking  one's  vernacular.  Britain  purchased 
Singapore  from  the  sultan  of  Johore,  Malay 
Peninsula,  as  early  as  18 19,  so  that  to-day  in  all 
parts  of  Sinjjapore,  Chinese,  Malay,  and  iMiro- 
pean  quarters  alike,  Britain  rules.  A^ain  and 
ao^ain  one  is  reminded  of  the  <i^reat  wisdom  of 
the  British  ji^overnment  in  niaintainin<>^  a  line  of 
outposts  to  her  vast  Indian  possessions ;  of  this 
point  nientior  .vill  be  made  later. 


SINdAI'ORK 


Thm-  was  Mitich  ill  Siii^rapou.  f.  remind  oiio 
o»  Ik;  llawaiiaii  Islands  palms  <,f  maiiv  kinds 
iiKdndiii^r  faii-palni,  tlic  bread-fruit  tree,  dates, 
li^s,  manjrols,  l)anaiias,  (lowers,  and  people.  Hut 
111  wealth,  beauty,  and  eliarm  of  fruit  and  flower 
slirub  and  tree,  mountain  and  vallev,  atUK.spherJ 
and  people,  tlie  Hawaiian  Islands  are  as  sunliirht 
to  moonh^dit  when  compared  to  SinKap<.re. 
I  iK'y  are  likely  t(»  be  peerless,  even  when  com- 
pared  with   "Ceylon's  isle." 


f'' 


(!; 


I 


(i. 


,'lt 


XXIII 


PENANG   AND   CEYLON 


FROM  Hong  Kong  to  Singapore  we  sailed 
to  the  south  and  slightly  westward.  On 
Monday,  August  19,  at  3  p.  m.,  as  already  indi- 
cated, we  were  exactly  half-around  the  world  in 
longitude,  but  at  Singapore  we  distinctly  turned 
the  rnrner,  if  one  may  so  speak.  Now  we  were 
heading  for  home,  now  every  throb  of  the  engine 
was  carrying  us  nearer  to  those  who  are  dearest. 
Optically  also,  as  a  glance  at  the  map  shows,  this 
fact  was  evident.  It  was  found  at  times  exceed- 
ingly difficult  to  keep  our  geographical  position 
in  mind.  All  a  Western  traveler's  usual  rela- 
tions to  the  countries  he  has  been  accustomed  to 
call  Eastern  countries  are  entirely  changed  when 
he  is  iii  the  far  East.  To  us,  where  we  are  now 
sailing,  Beluchistan,  Afghanistan,  Persia,  Arabia, 
Africa,  Egypt,  Palestine,  and  all  Europe  are 
Western  lands.  This  was  a  fact  extremely  diffi- 
cult of  realization.  To  be  east  of  these  lands 
was  a  peculiar  sensation.  To  dwellers  in  Cathay 
the  Levant  seems  almost  to  be  Europe. 

At  4  P.  IM.,  on  W^ednesday,  August  21,  we  left 
Singapore  for  Penang.     The  trip  was  truly  de- 
lightful.    The  sea  was  emerald  ;  its  ripples  were 
liquid  gems.     Islands  for  a  time  rose  up  from  the 
276 


PKNANG    AXD   CKYl.OX 


// 


placid  waters  and  stood  on  each  side  like  in ij^ lily 
sentinels.  Spice-laden  breezes  fanned  onr  cheeks ; 
heart  and  Inngs  rejoiced  in  the  soft,  healinj^,  and 
soothing  atmosphere.  Tliere  was  no  oppressive 
heat ;  indeed,  on  the  qnarter-deck,  in  the  even- 
ing, the  air  was  almost  too  cool  for  comfort, 
dressed,  as  we  were,  in  light  clothing.  This  fact 
also  is  difficult  of  realization  when  one  remem- 
bers that  we  were  only  a  few  miles  north  of  the 
equator.  Of  course,  any  exertion  would  readily 
give  the  sensation  of  heat,  but  exertion  being 
absent,  there  was  not  a  moment  of  discomfort 
because  of  high  temperature,  Perhaps  this  vvas 
an  exceptionally  cool  season  ;  one  is  certainly 
inclined  so  to  believe  as  he  remembeis  the  charm- 
ing accounts  which  he  has  heard  and  read  re- 
garding the  heat  of  these  equatorial  regions. 
The  captain  said  it  was  an  exceptional  season. 
This  writer  can  speak  only  according  to  his  per- 
sonal experience. 

Penang. — After  a  run  of  thirty-six  hours, 
Penang  was  reached.  This  was  once  called 
Prince  of  Wales  Island,  or  Pulo  Pinang,  or  Betel- 
nut  Island.  Here  we  remained  seven  hours, 
time  enough,  however,  to  see  most  that  is  dis- 
tinctive in  Penang.  This  is  the  most  northerly 
seaport  of  the  Malacca  Straits.  A  glance  at  the 
captain's  chart  showed  that  we  had  been  running 
northwest  since  leaving  Singapore,  and  that  Pe- 
nang is  where  the  straits  open  into  the  Indian 
Ocean.  Somewhat  more  than  one  hundred  miles 
southwest   lies  the  island  of   Sumatra,   farther 


)■ 


,lf 


''!■  i, 


■■I 


i 


i, 


III 


278 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


;  fi 


n  Ki 


south  and  east  are  Borneo  and  Java,  and  to  the 
north  is  Bangkok,  Tavoy,  Mouhnein,  and  Ran- 
goon, these  last  four  places  being  so  full  of  in- 
terest in  connection  witli  our  missionary  work. 

The  shores  of  Penang  are  well  wooded ;  hills 
rise  until,  inland,  they  become  mountain  ranges 
of  considerable  size.  Penang  is  separated  from 
the  mainland  by  a  narrow  strait,  forming  an 
island  thirteen  miles  long  and  five  to  ten  miles 
wide.  Its  location,  as  well  as  its  productions, 
make  it  a  valuable  port. 

The  areca  palm,  sometimes  called  the  Penang 
tree,  gives  its  name  to  the  island.  This  tree  is 
the  source  of  the  betel  nut,  which  is  cut  up  and 
wrapped  in  a  leaf  of  the  same  tree,  to  which  is 
added  a  small  quantity  of  quicklime,  and  some- 
times a  little  tobacco,  and  the  preparation  is 
vigorously  chewed  by  the  natives.  The  chew- 
ing gives  their  teeth  and  lips  the  color  of  blood. 
The  quid  lasts  about  half  an  hour,  and  in  many 
cases  it  is  frequently  renewed.  It  is  said  to  be  a 
powerful  tonic.  The  habit  of  chewing  it  is  well- 
nigh  universal  among  the  lower  classes  of  Asi- 
atics. In  some  parts  of  India,  it  is  said  that 
pepper  and  cardamon  seeds  are  added  to  the 
mixture,  and  when  so  prepared,  it  is  believed 
to  be  a  partial  antidote  to  malarial  influences. 
While  in  Colombo,  I  heard  that  a  few  days  be- 
fore a  native  had  been  fined  five  rupees  for  expec- 
torating this  juice  on  the  walls  of  the  Colombo 
post  office.  If  we  had  in  America  a  similar  law 
against  the  habit  of  expectorating  tobacco  juice 
on  floors  and  walls  of  public  buildings,  it  would 


'  ■,  I 


PKNANG    AND   CEYI.ON 


2/9 


be  considered  a  benediction  by  thousands  of  long- 
suffering  citizens. 

In  1786  Captain  Francis  Light,  an  English 
sea  captain,  married  the  daughter  of  the  king  of 
Queda,  and  received  this  island  as  her  marriage 
portion  from  her  father.  Then  the  town  con- 
sisted of  but  a  few  Malay  fishermen.  He  trans- 
ferred the  island  to  the  Kast  India  Company,  and 
he  was  retained  as  superintendent  and  the  king 
received  six  thousand  dollars  annually.  The 
island  has  since  greatly  increased  in  population 
and  in  commercial  importance.  The  town  con- 
sists of  one  broad  street  intersected  by  other 
streets  at  right  angles.  Its  productions  are  very 
similar  to  those  of  Singapore.  Here,  as  there,  the 
Chinese  abound,  and  here,  as  there,  they  domi- 
nate the  natives.  The  natives  are  slight,  but 
often  tall  and  straight.  They  are,  for  the  most 
part,  indolent,  shiftless,  and  nearly  unclad.  I'hcy 
are  the  thoughtless  children  of  nature.  There 
are  no  domestic  relations,  as  such  are  understood 
among  truly  civilized  and  Christianized  people. 
The  moral  life  of  the  people  it  is  not  necessary 
to  characterize. 

Birds  of  the  most  gorgeous  colors  arc  every- 
where seen.  Butterflies  of  great  size  and  bril- 
liant hues  are  numerous.  This  is  a  land  of 
perpetual  summer.  The  cocoanut  tree,  in  its 
abundant  and  varied  productions,  is  a  constant 
marvel.  Well  might  the  old  Asiatic  poets  sing 
of  the  three  hundred  and  sixty  uses  wliich  its 
trunk,  branches,  leaves,  fruit,  and  juice  could 
subserve.     From  the  bud  of  one  variety  is  ex- 


1:1 


■!'jfi 


iil   ,< 


'i; 


i    i 

«    ) 

i  ;, 


.H 


III 


28o 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


traded  a  liquor  called  sarce^  which,  when  fresh, 
is  cool  and  wholesome,  but  which  may  become 
hig^hly  intoxicating.  Penang  will  long  live  in 
the  memory  as  a  picture  of  a  land  where  nature  is 
so  indulgent  to  her  children  that  they  have  never 
developed  the  nobler  possibilities  of  manhood. 
Better  the  sterile  soil  and  the  chilling  tempera- 
tures which  make  robust  men ;  these  conditions 
have  developed  the  races  that  are  to  be  masters 
of  the  world. 


,  I  «.'• 


h  ^ 


On  the  Indian  Ocean. — At  ii  a.m.,  Friday, 
August  23,  we  sailed  from  Penang  for  Colombo, 
nearly  one  thousand  three  hundred  miles  away, 
full  of  anxiety  to  hasten  forward.  More  than 
half  the  journey  around  the  world  has  been  ac- 
complished, so  far  as  distance  is  concerned,  and 
about  half  the  time  allotted  for  this  trip  has  been 
passed ;  but  what  remains  to  be  seen  in  India,  in 
Egypt,  in  Palestine,  in  Athens,  and  in  Constan- 
tinople is,  in  many  respects,  so  vastly  more  im- 
portant than  what  has  been  seen,  that  we  are 
conscious  of  an  ambition  to  hasten  forward.  For 
a  little  time  after  leaving  Penang  our  course  was 
slightly  northward,  but  soon  it  lay  due  west 
across  the  Indian  Ocean,  on  a  line  of  about  the 
sixth  degree  of  north  latitude.  This  particular 
part  of  the  trip  had  been  dreaded  even  before 
leaving  home,  and  was  entered  upon  with  min- 
gled fear  and  hope. 

For  a  time  the  good  ship  "  Kaisar-i-Hind " 
plowed  her  way  through  smooth  seas  and  under 
a  clear  sky.     The  air  was  soft  and  balmy  ;  the 


PKXAXG    AND   CEYLON 


281 


:r 
e 


ni<^lits  were  serene  and  bright.  Passengers  de- 
lighted in  reclining  or  walking  on  the  deck, 
watching  the  phosphorescent  waters,  the  cloud- 
less skies,  and  the  gleaming  stars.  We  seemed 
almost  to  be  in  fairyland,  floating  in  a  phantom 
ship  between  the  fleecy  clouds  above  and  their 
reflected  and  chastened  beauty  beneath.  But 
after  a  few  days,  a  moderate  southwest  monsoon 
suddenly  struck  us  and  it  soon  changed  the 
spirit  of  our  dreams.  It  made  the  decks  sug- 
gestively silent  and  caused  an  occasional  vacant 
place  at  the  table.  The  wind  whistled  and 
howled,  the  waves  hissed  and  moaned,  the  ship 
rolled  and  plunged,  but  grandly  forged  ahead 
through  darkness  and  storm. 

On  Wednesday,  August  28,  at  5  A.  M.,  we  were 
in  the  harbor  at  Colombo.  Near  us  in  the  har- 
bor were  two  other  P.  &  O.  boats,  the  "  iVIalta  " 
and  the  "Himalaya,"  bound  for  "home";  there 
was  a  German  man-of-\\  ar,  and  there  were  also 
several  other  steamers  of  various  lines.  As  a 
matter  of  course,  several  passeng-ers  repeated 
second-hand  jokes  about  "Ceylon's  isle,"  where 
"every  prospect  pleases,  and  only  man  is  vile." 
I  had  promised  myself  not  to  quote  these  words 
and  so  to  do  something  original  and  heroic,  and 
they  are  given  now  only  as  quoted  by  others. 

We  were  up  early  this  morning,  although 
early  rising  is  not  a  feature  of  life  on  shipboard 
when  coffee,  as  a  part  of  chota-hazri^  is  served  at 
seven  in  the  berth,  followed  by  a  nap,  and  break- 
fast is  at  nine  ;  but  letters  were  expected  this 
morning  as  soon  as  some  of  the  officers  could 


». 


r. 


[I 


'■\ 


h 


282 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


'  'I    i'^ 


''  'i'  fi. 


return  from  the  P.  &  O.  office.  Soon  the  cabin 
steward  came  to  my  cabin  with  a  package,  and 
a  hasty  look  sliowed  on  two  bulky  letters  a 
specimen  of  chirography  which  for  more  than 
a  quarter  of  a  century  has  not  failed  to  produce 
a  little  throb  somewhere  in  the  vicinity  of  the 
pericardium.  There  was  news  which  made  the 
heart  very  glad  and  some  which  made  it  equally 
sad.  It  will  not  be  denied  that  there  was  a  time 
.of  great  loneliness  as  the  realization  of  the  thou- 
sands of  miles  of  distance  from  family,  church, 
and  c^iiUtiy  pressed  upon  mind  and  heart. 

A  Dilemma. — But  plans  of  travel  had  to  be 
considered.  Inquiry  revealed  the  fact  that  there 
was  no  P.  &  O.  steamer  here  for  Calcutta  and 
that  there  would  be  none  for  two  weeks.  This 
possibility  was  known  before  leaving  New  York, 
but  it  was  said,  while  coming  from:  Hong  Kong 
to  Colombo,  that  there  would  clmost  certainl)- 
be  a  steamer  here  on  our  arrival.  What  course 
was  it  best  to  adopt?  One  could  profitably  spend 
two  weeks,  if  he  had  plenty  of  time,  on  the  island 
of  Ceylon,  but  two  weeks  here  would  lead  to  a 
delay  of  three  weeks  on  the  trip  because  of  the 
unavoidable  loss  of  other  connections.  There 
was  a  tramp  steamer  soon  to  leave  for  Calcutta, 
but  its  speed  was  slow  and  its  accommodations 
were  poor ;  that  was,  therefore,  rejected. 

It  was  possible  to  get  a  steamer  soon  for  Tuti- 
corin,  the  extreme  point  of  Southern  India. 
This  plan  had  something  in  its  favor.  It  would 
give  the  opportunity  of  seeing  this  town,  once 


PKNANG    AND   CKYl^ON 


2S3 

famous  for  its  pearl   fisheries,  and   now  a  sample 
of  an  utterly  sleej^y  and  forsaken  place ;  of  seein<r 
Madura,  one  hundred  miles  farther  north,  famous 
tor  Its  ancient  pa-oda,  supported  by  two  thousand 
stone  columns  ;  of  seeino^  Trichinopoly,  another 
one  hundred  miles   northward,   famous  for    its 
varied  manufactures,  and  interestincr  as  the  place 
where  Bishop  Heber  was  drowned  in  1826,  while 
bathing,  and  where  he  is  buried  ;  of  seeincr  Tan- 
jore,  a  large  fortified  city,  with  its  ancicnt'^palace 
with    lofty   towers,— formerly  that   of    tlie    late 
rajah,--with  its  large  gilded  car  of  Juggernaut, 
and  with  Its  magnificent  pagoda,  fourteen  stories 
high,  so  familiar  in  engravings  and  carvings,  with 
Its  gigantic  figure  of  a  reclining  bull,  hewn  from 
a  single  block  of  black  granite ;  of  seeing  Ma- 
dras, with  Its  varied  attractions,  and  then  on  to 
Calcutta.     Of  all   these  places  there  had  been 
much  careful  reading  and  their  attractions  were 
familiar,  and  so  they  entered  into  the  decision 
which  had  to  be  made.     But  the  thought  of  the 
distances  to  be  traveled,  the  heat  to  be  probably 
experienced,  and  the  poor  hotel  accommodations 
to  be  endured  led  to  the  rejection  of  this  possi- 
bility. ^ 

It  was  learned  also  that,  by  putting  forth  o-reat 
energy,  Colombo,  and  also  Kandy,  could  be'^seen 
with  reasonable  thoroughness,  and  the  trip  to 
Bombay  could  be  taken  by  remaining  on  board 
the  "Kaisar-i-Hind,"  and  then  crossing  India  by 
railway,  in  three  nights  and  two  davs,  from 
Bombay  to  Calcutta.  This  route  was  selected. 
Ihis  plan  necessitated  hard  traveling  and  cross- 


i! 


I 


It 

■I 

,!• 
1 
I'll 

'I 


ft 

i 

^' 

!*• 

*■ 

i 

if 

il 

284 


AROUND   TIIK    WORM) 


■,.'!, 


)     ,  '.. 


ing  Northern  India  twice,  bnt  tlic  journey  would 
])e  made  by  different  routes  and  so  more  of  tlie 
northern  part  of  the  country  would  be  Keen, 
travelinj^  in  which,  even  in  midsummer,  not 
bein^  specially  uncomfortable. 

Can  sufficient  couraj^e  be  summoned  to  see 
Ceylon  before  the  steamer  leaves?  It  remains 
thirty-three  hours.  A  part  of  the  work  can  be 
done ;  a  part  at  least  will  be  done.  The  resolu- 
tion was  made,  but  it  must  be  confessed  that 
the  flesh  was  somewhat  refractory,  althou<;h  the 
spirit  was  very  ambitious.  One  cannot  help 
havin<^  some  sympathy  with  the  schoolboy  who 
was  sorry  that  he  had  not  lived  two  thousand 
years  ago  so  that  he  would  not  have  so  much 
liistory  to  learn.  So  one  almost  wishes  that  he 
had  lived  when  the  world  of  travel  was  smaller 
and  when  there  were  fewer  objects  of  interest  to 
see.  But  as  I  am  deliberately  attemptin*);-  to  do 
in  less  than  six  months  what  ought  not  to  be 
attempted  in  less  than  nine  months,  perhaps,  I 
must  not  complain,  and  must  hasten  to  a  pleas- 
urable, though  a  fatiguing,  task  ;  there  will  be 
time  enough  for  rest  during  the  remainder  of 
the  voyage. 

The  Island  of  Ceylon. — The  island  of  Cey- 
lon is  usually  spoken  of  as  the  most  beautiful 
spot  in  the  world  ;  certainly  its  soil  and  climate 
are  remarkable  for  their  luxuriant  production  of 
almost  every  beautiful  tree,  shrub,  and  flower 
known  to  the  tropics.  In  natural  scenery  it  vies 
with  any  part  of  the  world.     As  it  rises  from  the 


PKNANC.    AND    ClvYUJN 


^H5 


ocean,  clothed  with  tlic  rich  Inxnrionsiicss  of  a 
tropical  vcj^ctation,  it  seems  almost  like  an  en- 
chanted island  in  dreamland.  Its  hills  rise 
grandly  nntil  they  are  lost  in  mist  and  clond. 
A  sea  of  sapphire  dashes  aj^ainst  its  n^  ks;  and 
the  yellow  strands  are  shaded  ])y  j^roves  of  nohle 
palms.  It  resend)les  a  pear  in  shajK',  hnt  its 
natives  more  ])oetically  comj)are  it  to  one  of  their 
elonj^ated  pearls.  It  lies  sonth  of  India,  some- 
what as  Madagascar  lies  -lonth  of  Africa.  Undn- 
latir.;^^  plains  cover  abont  fonr  ])arts  and  the  fifth 
is  covered  by  a  nionntain  rancrc,  containing;  a 
gronpof  nionntains  rising  to  ci<^ht  thonsand  feet. 
The  sonth  side  of  the  island  is  drained  by  ten 
rivers  of  considerable  size.  A  fine  breakwater 
has  made  the  harbor  of  Coknnbo  safe.  This  is 
a  point  of  call  for  steamers  comin<^  from  and 
^oinjT^  to  all  points  of  the  world.  The  harbor  is 
almost  always  fnll  of  vessels  of  nearly  every  na- 
tion in  Fynrope.  The  island  contains  a  little 
over  twenty-five  thonsand  sqnare  miles,  and  a 
popnlation  of  three  millions. 

The  coast  is  hot,  bnt  it  is  comfortably  cool 
among  the  monntains.  The  sea  breezes  pleas- 
antly moderate  the  heat,  and  the  climate  is  not 
considered  nnhealthfnl  for  Knropeans.  The  tem- 
peratnre  is  eqnable  ;  the  average  in  Colombo  is 
80°.     April  is  the  hottest  month. 

Comparatively  few  know  of  the  antiqnity  of 
its  history,  the  glory  of  its  former  civilization  as 
evidenced  by  its  bnried  cities,  and  the  ethnic 
interest  attaching  to  its  primitive  and  later  races. 
Here  is  an  island  where  once,  withont  donbt, 


*•{ 


It 


I'i 


. 


l.< 


;. 


i. 


r 


'I 

li  1  ." 


■>  > 


K.J 

u 

'■I 


I 


i 


'"-'jr. 


286 


AKOi'Ni)  Tni-;  woRi.n 


lluMv  was  ;>  inij^liU  i  jiipin-  ;  lieu-  air  marvtloiis 
RMiiaitis  of  ^ij^aiilic  titnpUs  and  iiia^niruTiil 
palaiHs  ;  Ikmv  atv  i)irlu.sl«>i  it- inoimnunls  ;  Ikmv 
an-  niitis  of  ilal)»)iaU>  systiins  of  iirij^alioii  ;  licio 
is  a  vast  licltl  of  only  partially  explored  rctiiaitis, 
wliicli  for  llic  next  lialf-niitiiry  will  he  llu"  won- 
der and  delight  of  learned  anti(|narians  of  all 
nations. 

Mj^yptians,  Persians,  (ireeks,  Romans,  and 
Arabians  traded  willi  the  ports  of  Ceylon.  Many 
believe  that  this  island  was  the  ()phir  of  the 
Hebrews;  it  eerlainly  eorresponds  in  its  pre- 
cious stones  and  other  forms  of  mineral  wealth 
to  the  descriptions  in  the  Bible  of  that  land  of 
precious  qems.  'Phe  };ems  of  Ceylon  have  been 
celebrated  from  time  immemorial.  vSapphires, 
rtd)ies,  topaz,  amethysts,  cinnamon  stone,  cat's 
eye,  and  };^arnets  arc  the  principal  ^ems  and  ])re- 
cions  stones  of  the  island.  The  most  valuable 
is  the  sapphire.  In  1S53  one  was  found  worth 
twenty  thousand  dollars.  The  pearl  fisheries  arc 
also  famous. 

The  traveler  who  judj^cs  the  ancient  Sinhalese 
— that  is  ])robably  the  better  spcUinj^ — by  the 
voluble  venders  of  spurious  j»ems  met  with  in 
Kaudy  or  C(>lond)o,  will  do  j^reat  injustice  to  a 
wonderful  race  and  to  his  own  re])Utation  as  an 
intellis^cnt  critic.  Just  now  there  is  a  revival  of 
interest  in  this  pco])le  and  in  their  prehistoric 
monuments.  The  modern  Sinhalese  is  certainly 
no  fair  representative  of  a  people  that  could  build 
a  city  of  i>ioantic  monoliths,  carve  a  mountain 
into  a  j>;raceful  shrine,  and  adorn  its  monuments 


^f       ':! 


I  il'-lt 


IMvNANC.    AND   CICYI.ON 


2.H7 


111 


willi  |)ill;iis  .'111(1  c.'ipilals  not  iinwottliy  of  Citik 
ail  in  tlu'  (lass  «)!"  its  nuridiaii  ^lory.  <  )l  course 
this  writer  eoiild  not  in  liis  luiel"  visit  to  the 
island,  |k  rsonally  examine  the  remains  of  these 
Imiiefl  eities,-  the  months  of  jannary  and  l'\l)- 
rnary  are  liie  time  for  that  ])nri)ose, — hnt  he-  has 
learned  enough  to  start  him  on  new  liir. sof  read- 
iiio  and  thonj^ht,  and  he  wishes  to  ineite  all  his 
leaders  to  i)iirsne  similar  lines  of  iiKjuiry. 

'riliv  Maiiavvanso. — The  vSinhalese  are  not  a 
literary  nation;  they  have  not  jnodiiced  a  sinj^de 
author  of  literary  j)rominenee.  lint  they  have 
j^iveii  the  world  a  series  of  ehronieles  of  nnim- 
peaehed  aulhentieily  which  hrinj^^  their  history 
down  from  the  earliest  times  to  the  last  century. 
These  chronicles  are  known  as  the  "  Mahawan- 
so,"  or  "  (ienealoj^^y  of  the  (ireat  "  and  vSir  James 
I^merson  Teiieiil,  in  his  work  on  Ceylon,  <^ive.s  a 
full  account  of  their  character.  They  were 
bej^nn  hy  a  Ihiddhist  ])riest  in  A.  d.  460,  and  his 
work  covers  the  period  from  543  n.  c,  when  the 
Sinhalese  first  reached  Ceylon,  to  A.  D.  301. 
Various  monastic  successors  of  this  ])riest  have 
carried  the  work  down  to  the  time  of  the  Hritish 
rule.  '1  his  says  that  in  543  H.  c,  Wijeyo,  a  son 
of  one  of  the  petty  princes  in  the  valley  of  the 
(tallies,  and  his  Sinhalese  followers  landed  in 
Ceylon  and  conquered  the  primitive  peoples. 
The  chronicles  explain  the  name  of  the  race  hy 
tracing  it  to  Sinlia,  the  word  for  a  lion. 

Whatever  of  doubt  may  attach  to  these  jarly 
chronicles,  the  monuments  bear  a  testimony  of 


i 


1. 
i\, 


I 

i 

t 

t 


I- 


288 


AROir.Ni)  Till':  woui.n 


\%     ' ' 


» . '  «♦ 


i 


J'' 


M,; 


■  1  f 

1  <  r| 

'1111 


iff 


tlicir  own.  Who  were  tlit-  arlists  whoso  skill  and 
taste  cover  snch  extensive  areas  ?  Were  they 
Sinhalese  or  Tamils?  Did  these  two  ethnoloj^i- 
cally  distinct  races  become  one  race?  Where 
did  the  vast  stones  come  from  ?  How  were  they 
transported  ?  Were  elephants  em  ployed  to  trans- 
port these  j>reat  stones?  How  were  they  raised 
to  their  positions  withont  the  aid  of  cranes  or 
l)nlleys?  Was  the  space  filled  with  earth,  an 
inclined  plane  formed,  and  thep^reat  masses  tluis 
placed  in  position?     Who  can  tell? 

How  were  these  j^reat  bnildin^s  bron<jht  to 
ruins?  Was  it  done  by  the  iconoclastic  zeal  of 
the  Tamils?  Or  was  it  done  by  the  roots  of 
trees,  by  vines,  by  seeds?  Was  it  by  some  con- 
vulsion of  nature?  Or  were  there,  as  some 
believe,  defects  in  the  foundations  of  the  ^reat 
structures?  What  could  have  swept  from  the 
earth  a  population  of  millions  ?  Marvelous  are 
these  remains  of  carved  pillars,  (jreat  slabs,  and 
crumbling  columns.  Back  into  the  dim  past 
they  carry  us. 

The  antiquarian  has  not  thus  far  been  able  to 
lioht  the  path  with  his  lamp  of  learning-.  Here 
are  the  vSkeletons  of  a  dead  and  buried  past. 
Perhaps  even  before  the  pyramids  or  the  sphinx 
existed  a  great  race  lived  on  Ceylon's  beautiful 
isle.  Who  can  tell  ?  How  little  even  the  most 
learned  know  !  How  foolish  to  deny  the  teach- 
ings of  revelation  regarding  the  spiritual  world, 
because  of  the  supposed  opposition  of  scientists, 
when  they  cannot  explain  prehistoric  monu- 
ments of  this  material  world.      Ceylon  is  now  a 


IM 


n 


lM';Ni\..\(i    AM)    Ci;VI,C)N 


281; 


crown  colony  ;  it  is  ruk\l  by  a  i^ovcrnor  aided  1)y 
exL'cntivo  and  Icj^nslalivc  conncils  ;  most  of  the 
olTicials  arc  Hritish,  hnt  tlic  natives  are  not  e.\- 
clnded  from  ofiice.  Tlie  ^ovennnent  has  opened 
roads,  endowed  eoile<;es,  aided  missionaries,  and 
ill  every  way  has  striven  to  uplift  the  people. 

In  S38  H.  c,  the  Tamils  established  a  kinj;- 
dom  in  the  northern  part  of  Ceylon.  In  1505 
the  I'ortngnese  first  visited  Ceylon  and  in  i5i«S 
they  acqnired  possessions.  In  165S  the  Dntch 
secnred  possession  of  the  port.  In  1796  the 
Ivnj^lish  <;ot  tlij  island,  and  in  1S15,  with  the  fall 
of  the  Kandyan  kinj^,  the  last  semblance  of  power 
on  the  part  of  the  earlier  rnlcrs  came  into  their 
hands.  They  promised  not  to  interfere  with  the 
religion  of  the  conquered  people,  and  ecpial  rij^dits 
were  j^narantecd  to  all.  whatever  their  race  or 
religion. 


I. 


^•* 


Thf:  Island  Pkople  To-dav. — The  two  chief 
races  arc  the  vSinhalese  and  the  Tamils.  These 
differ  widely  from  each  other.  The  Tamil,  for 
a  dweller  in  the  Orient,  is  indnstrions  and  entcr- 
prisincr.  The  Tamils  larg^ely  people  the  northern 
part  of  the  island  ;  there  are  also  Tamil  laborers 
in  the  cities  all  over  the  island.  Often  they 
speak  English  reasonably  well,  and  occasionally 
they  pnsh  into  honorable  offices.  Althonj^h  they 
have  adopted  the  creed  of  Brahman  ism,  they  have 
retained  mnch  of  their  old  worship  of  demons. 
Devil  temples  are  common  anionjj;^  them.  C  Kste  is 
less  powerfnl  in  Ceylon  than  in  India.  In  Ceylon 
few  of  the  Brahmans  learn  English  ;  others  fill 

T 


r 

I: 


1' , 


\% 


\. 


I: 


W'>. 


''  .;•  i 


'•  ■   ; 


!.-hi 


290 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


the  positions  requiring  edncation.  By  the  laws  of 
Hindnism  a  Brahman  who  crosses  the  sea  loses 
caste;  therefore,  only  Brahmans  of  inferior  posi- 
tion or  damaged  rcpntation  go  to  Ceylon. 

The  Sinhalese  are  less  vitrorons  and  ener<jetic 
than  the  Tamils.  Few  races  in  the  world  ure  so 
torpid,  so  dnll,  and  so  conscienceless.  Climate 
and  religion  have  done  mnch  to  bring  abont  this 
result.  Nature  here  is  too  generous.  Every 
want  is  provided  by  the  gentleness  of  the  climate 
and  the  fertility  of  the  soil.  Civilization  is  too 
simple  to  create  artificial  wants,  and  furnishes  no 
ambition,  no  enterprise,  no  stimulus.  Their  re- 
ligion is  a  form  of  Buddhism  ;  but  it  has  bor- 
rowed much  from  Hinduism.  Temples  to  Hin- 
du gods  exist  by  the  side  of  those  dedicated  to 
Buddha.  Among  them,  as  among  the  Tamils, 
there  is  much  of  demon  worship.  Their  priests 
are  of  inferior  education  and  rely  for  influence 
among  the  people  largely  on  the  practice  of 
medicine  and  astrology. 

Buddhism  is  the  prevailing  religion.  The 
Mohammedans  have  many  followers,  who  are 
called  Moormen.  The  Veddahs,  one  of  the  most 
degraded  races  of  mankind,  are  found  in  the 
island.  In  the  interior  are  many  Kandyans ; 
there  are  also  Hindus,  Malabrians,  and  natural- 
ized descendants  of  the  old  Dutch  and  Portuguese 
colonists  along  the  coast. 

In  dress  and  appearnnce  the  Sinhalese  have 
remained  unchanged  since  the  days  of  Ptolemy. 
Their  long  hair  is  turned  back  from  their  fore- 
heads and  is    confined  with  combs  ;    they   also 


PKNANG    AND   CKYLON 


291 


wear  carrinos.  The  women  adorn  themselves 
with  an  endless  variety  of  necklaces,  bangles, 
rings,  and  other  forms  of  jewelry.  Polyandry 
still  lingers  in  the  interior.  One  woman  often 
has  three  or  four  husbands. 

For  nearly  four  hundred  years  Ceylon  has  been 
mission  ground,  with  three  chief  epochs.  In 
Jaffna,  in  the  north,  isolated  by  the  sea  on  the 
one  side  and  trackless  jungles,  the  Portuguese 
carried  things  with  a  high  hand.  They  threat- 
ened, they  cajoled,  they  promised,  and  the  Roman 
Church  was  made  the  road  to  civil  preferment. 

When  the  Dutch  came  into  power  the  Portu- 
guese and  the  Romanists  lost  influence.  Roman 
rites  were  forbidden,  priests  were  banished,  and 
converts  to  a  form  of  Protestantism  were  num- 
bered by  thousands.  But  it  was  not  heart  relig- 
ion, and  the  chassis  at  Amsterdam  condemned 
the  methods  which  had  been  employed.  This 
was  mere  government  Christianity. 
_  The  English  period  has  been  one  of  true  mis- 
sion work.  Baptists  were  the  first  Protestant 
body  to  enter  the  field.  i\Ir.  and  j\Irs.  Chater  ar- 
rived in  1 81 2,  and  fo-  twenty-two  years  labored  in 
Colombo.  They  were  succeeded  by  Mr.  Daniel, 
who  labored  for  fourteen  years.  His  name  is 
held  in  high  honor  by  the  Siulialese.  In  1854 
the  mission  had  reached  one  hundred  and  fortv 
villages. ^  To-day  there  are  five  missions,  twenty- 
two  native  preachers,  one  thousand  communi- 
cants and  two  thousand  five  hundred  ciiildren  in 
Sunday-schools. 

The  Wesleyan  Methodists  came  next.     Theirs 


1'' 


'    ■'  'I 


I' 


li 


Ui 


I 


i; 


i. 


l:M 


«!  H 


U'( 


4' 


292 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


is  indeed  a  marvelous  story.  Dr.  Coke  died  on 
tlie  way.  In  1814  five  men  landed.  To-day 
there  are  two  thousand  communicants  and  four 
thousand  children  in  Sunday-schools.  The 
American  Board  in  181 3  was  represented  in  the 
person  of  Mr.  Newell.  Four  mission  ^ries  from 
Boston  arrived  in  181 5,  and  immediately  began 
work.  The  Church  of  England  began  work  in 
1818.  They  opened  schools  and  started  printing 
presses.  A  knowledge  of  the  English  language 
was  greatly  desired.  The  Salvation  Army,  under 
Mr.  Tucker,  formerly  a  civil  service  officer  in 
India,  has  sent  workers  to  Ceylon.  They  have 
adopted  the  native  food  and  dress  of  the  Hindu 
mendicants;  but  this  is  still  an  experiment. 


^ 


i 


} 


XXIV 


111 


CITIES  OF  CEYLON. 

KANDY  is  about  sixty  miles  from  Colombo. 
Leavincr  Colombo  on  the  early  iiioriiin<r 
train  one  could  spend  three  hours  in  Kandy  and 
be  back  in  Colombo  about  seven  in  the  evening. 
Kandy  has  been  called  the  mountain  capital  of 
Ceylon.  The  name  comes  from  the  Sinhalese 
word  kandy,  which  sig^nifies  a  mountain.  The 
elevation  is  one  thousand  seven  hundred  feet 
above  the  level  of  the  sea.  The  road  to  Kandy 
has  been  in  operation  since  1867. 

The  Trip  to  Kandy.— Soon  after  leaving? 
Colombo  the  train  passes  through  a  succession  of 
cinnamon  groves,  groups  of  cocoanut  and  betel 
palms,  mango,  jak,  breadfruit,  and  various  other 
tropical  trees.  There  is  a  wealth  of  verdure  and 
a  variety  of  color  which  cannot  fail  to  charm  the 
tourist.  The  line  crosses  the  Kelani-ganj^-a,  the 
second  largest  river  on  the  island.  The  exten- 
sive stone  quarries  which  supplied  the  material 
for  the  magnificent  breakwater  at  Colombo  are 
passed  some  distance  off  to  the  right.  Soon,  if 
the  day  be  clear,  Adam's  Peak,  towering  high 
above  surrounding  ranges,  can  be  seen  rising 
more  than  seven  thousand  feet  above  the  sea.    It 

293 


il 


I  :\ 


IM 


;-, 


P 


'  f  1 


i 


■i' 


::i  ■  S 


i 


-v 


1 1.1 
1 1 


14 


[I'^'n' 


iHiti 


<  r 


294 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


is  the  site  of  a  shrine  at  which  Buddhists,  IMo- 
hammedans,  and  Hindus  worship ;  here  also  is 
tlie  gigantic  "footprint  "  of  Adam,  Siva,  Buddha 
or  the  Apostle  Thomas,  according  to  the  super- 
stition of  the  devout  pilgrim. 

On  the  way  are  tea  plantations,  and  the  Gov- 
ernment Experimental  Gardens,  where  almost 
every  variety  of  cocoa  and  India-rubber  trees  are 
found  ;  here  also  is  the  district  long  known  as 
"The  Valley  of  the  Shadow  of  Death,"  because 
of  the  fearful  mortality  among  the  coolies  who 
were  employed  in  building  the  line.  Soon  after 
comes  Rambukkana,  where  begins  the  very  steep 
grade,  necessitating  an  extra  engine.  In  thir- 
teen miles  the  train  climbs  more  than  one  thou- 
sand four  hundred  feet,  and  so  Kandy  is  reached. 

The  town  lies  at  the  base  of  an  amphitheatre 
of  hills ;  it  is  certainly  one  of  the  loveliest  spots 
in  an  island  of  extreme  beauty.  The  principal 
object  of  interest  is  the  celebrated  Dalada  Mali- 
gawa,  the  temple  of  the  Tooth,  which  overlooks 
the  Esplanade.  This  temple  enshrines  the  sacred 
tooth  of  Buddha ;  here  for  more  than  one  thou- 
sand five  hundred  years  this  so-called  tooth  has 
been  reverenced  by  millions  of  Buddhists.  It  is 
protected  by  six  golden  covers  and  is  exposed  to 
public  view  only  on  grand  religious  occasions, 
or  when  visited  by  distinguished  potentates,  and 
then  amid  great  ceremonies.  The  temple  is  an 
irrej^nlar  structure  of  indescribable  architecture. 
Yellow-robed  and  filthy  old  priests  keep  up  a 
show  of  daily  services  with  grotesque  dancing, 
beating  of  drums,  and  blowing  of  fifes.     Here 


'li'f  ' 


^ 


CITIES  OF  CEYLON 


295 


heathenism  is  peculiarly  heathenish  and  repul- 
sive. A  motley  thronor  of  beggars  well-nigh 
pester  the  life  out  of  visitors  and  quite  rob  them 
of  patience. 

Near  here  is  the  old  audience  hall  of  the 
Kandyan  kings ;  so  also  are  the  old  palace,  the 
botanical  garden,  St.  Paul's  Church,  clubs,  and 
other  buildings,  and  Lady  Gordon's,  Lady  Mor- 
ton's, and  Lady  Macarthy's  drives.  The  sacred 
bo  tree,  near  the  temple,  is  believed  to  be  the  old- 
est historical  tree  in  the  world,  and  its  record 
has  been  carefully  kept  since  three  hundred 
years  before  the  Christian  era. 

Beyond  this  region,  it  is  said,  wild  elephants 
are  sometimes  seen  in  herds.  Flying  foxes  are 
numerous  in  this  part  of  the  island.  Coffee 
plantations  once  abounded,  but  a  few  years  ago 
the  trees  were  blighted  and  the  production  was 
of  necessity  greatly  reduced.  Banana  groves 
and  cocoanut  trees  are  to  be  seen  on  every  side. 
Much  attention  is  now  given  to  the  production 
of  the  cinchona,  which  flourishes  even  at  great 
elevations. 

The  houses  of  the  natives  are  made  of  bamboo 
poles  with  walls  of  mats  or  coarse  mud  plaster ; 
they  are  thatched  with  large  palm  leaves,  inge- 
niously combined  so  as  to  exclude  even  equatorial 
rains.  They  have  no  chimneys  and  no  windows, 
all  the  light  that  is  required  being  admitted 
through  the  open  doors,  and  the  little  necessary 
cooking  being  done  in  the  open  air.  But  some 
of  the  chiefs  have  houses  which  are  tiled  and 
whitewashed. 


•  Y 


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I  111 

n 


vii 


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296 


AROUND    THE   WORLD 


-4 


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Ir^' 


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r  vi 


Glimpses  ok  Colombo. 
Colombo  was  Kalan-totta, 


— The  early  name  of 
the    "  Kalaii  ferry," 


because  of  its  nearness  to  the  river.  The  Moors 
corrupted  the  word  into  Kalambu,  or  Columbu, 
and  the  Portuguese  wrote  Colombo,  in  honor  of 
Christopher  Columbus. 

The  first  thing  which  is  seen  on  coming  into 
the  harbor  is  the  low  sandy  beach  in  the  fore- 
ground, with  its  fringe  of  waving  co«.3anut 
palms,  and  the  background  of  mountain  range 
rising  into  the  sugar-loafed  peak  of  AdauL  The 
magnificent  breakwater  next  challenges  atten- 
tion. Its  first  stone  was  laid  by  the  Prince  of 
Wales,  in  1875,  and  it  was  completed  in  1884. 
Its  cost  was  great  for  a  city  the  size  of  Colombo, 
whose  inhabitants  number  one  hundred  and 
twenty-eight  thousand.  Over  this  breakwater 
the  waves  often  dash,  and  most  beautiful  is  the 
sight  of  the  spray,  as  seen  in  the  moonlight,  ris- 
ing fifty  to  seventy  feet  into  the  air.  Hour  after 
hour  I  watched  it  with  the  utmost  pleasure. 

Colombo  is  the  capital  of  Ceylon.  1 7a  Brin- 
disi  it  is  five  thousand  eight  hundred  and  sixty- 
eight  miles  from  London  ;  z^m  Gibraltar  it  is 
six  thousand  seven  hundred  and  three.  It  is  a 
prominent  port  for  passengers  to  and  from  all 
parts  of  the  East  and  Australia.  The  British 
government  has  here  excellent  barracks.  From 
this  point  soldiers  can  be  sent  to  meet  any  emer- 
gency, to  India  or  elsewhere  in  the  East.  Brit- 
ain's line  of  outposts  extends  from  the  Mediter- 
ranean to  the  far  East ;  their  order  is  Gibraltar, 
IMalta,  Aden,   Ceylon,   Penang,  Singapore,  and 


CITII'S   OK   CHVLON 


297 


Hono-Kon^r.  Tims  Rritain  dominates  the  soutli 
of  Asia  and  has  an  unobstructed  road  to  her  vast 
Indian  ])ossessions. 

Ceylon  is  a  crown  colony,  and  although  so 
near  India  is  separately  jroverned.  A  governor 
isappointed  by  the  crown,  and  associated  with 
him  is  an  executive  council  of  five  and  a  lej^is- 
lative  council  of  fifteen.  Britain  has  made  her 
colonies,  includin^r  Canada,  to  be  practically  re- 
publics. If  only  c;reat  Britain  had  the  Hawaiian 
Islands  she  would  have  another  chain,  with  those 
islands  as  one  of  its  links,  stretchincr  from  Brit- 
ish Columbia  to  Australia;  but  probably  the 
United  States  might  have  something  to  say  re- 
garding that. 

The  red  soil  of  the  streets  of  Colombo  makes 
one  think  of  New  Jersey,  and  the  dust  which  fills 
mouth  and  eyes,  of  New  York  in  certain  condi- 
tions of  her  streets.  The  Pcttali  Quarter,  or 
Black  Town,  is  inhabited  by  the  natives  ;  it  is 
the  Whitechapel  district,  or  the  Five  Points  of 
Colombo.  In  the  suburbs  are  the  pretty  but 
modest  dwellings  of  the  Dutch  and  Portuguese, 
some  of  which  date  back  to  the  earliest  occupa- 
tion of  the  island  by  any  peoples  outside  of  the 
native  races. 

The  shops  are  numerous  and  attractive,  but 
the  shopkeepers  in  their  importunity  are  a  posi- 
tive nuisance.  They  will  sometimes  follow  a 
stranger  for  half  a  block  urging  him  to  buy  their 
jewelry,  their  sapphire  and  cat's  eye,  often  doubt- 
less largely  spurious,  and  perhaps  manufactured 
at  Birmingham  for  the  delectation  of  the  gullible 


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298 


AROUND   THK    WORM) 


^lohf-lrotter.  It  was  aniusinj^  to  sec  the  little 
oxen  driven  sinj^ly  to  yoke  or  harness  and  trot- 
tin*^  thronj^h  the  streets  with  three  or  fonr  men 
or  women  in  the  earriaj^e,  and  they  do  trot  (jiiite 
fast.  Yon  can  hire  a  man  and  a  boat  for  an  honr 
for  a  mere  trifle  ;  the  same  remark  applies  to 
carriaj^cs  i\m\y///n'.{-/s//(is.  Men  who  live  in  the 
ICast  forj^et  how  to  help  themselves  ;  they  have 
servants  for  everythinj^  and  at  every  tnrn.  There 
is  great  danger  tliat  the  spirit  of  caste  may  be 
enconraged  ;  because  of  this  system  of  service  it 
is  almost  inevitable.  It  has  to  be  guarded  against 
even  in  missionary  work. 

Many  of  the  men  are  tall,  erect,  and  stately  ; 
and  they  are  lithe,  wiry,  and  strong.  In  their 
scant  clothing  standing  on  a  street  corner  they 
looked  not  unlike  bronze  statues.  Some  of  them 
wear  skirts,  and  their  hair  being  done  up  in  a 
queer  knot  with  a  shell  comb  surrounding  the 
head,  they  look  very  effeminate.  Young  boys, 
with  their  satin  skin,  white  teeth,  and  bright 
eyes,  are  often  handsome,  but  as  they  grow  older 
they  lose  their  beauty  and  become  indolent  and 
languid  creatures.  Some  of  the  women  might  be 
called  pretty.  The  "  get-up  "  of  nearly  all  is 
unique  ;  silver  and  brass  jewelry  adorns  the  tops 
and  bottoms  of  their  ears,  rings  are  on  their  toes, 
and  "  bells  "  also,  for  silver  coins  are  attached  to 
the  rings ;  fingers,  ankles,  and  wrists  are  often 
similarly  adorned,  and  sometimes  the  rest  of  the 
body  is  very  scantily  clothed. 

Mr.  Ballon  and  others  call  attention  to  the 
women  employed  as  nurses  by  the  wives  of  Eng- 


i'  •.  / 


CITI1<:S   OK   CKYI.ON 


299 


lish  officers.  They  form  a  scpanitc  class,  and 
tliey  luivc  developed  a  remarkable  taste  for  cheap 
jewelry  ;  they  are  dressed  in  the  "loudest"  pos- 
sible style.  Some  of  them  I  chanced  to  meet. 
They  wear  a  white  linen  j^arment,  cut  very  low 
and  reachinj^  to  the  knee  ;  over  this  is  a  blue  cut- 
away jacket,  covered  with  braid  and  buttoiis,  and 
drawn  in  at  the  waist  with  a  sash.  Perhaps  this 
description  is  not  very  intellij^ible,  but  I  have 
done  my  best  in  a  new  department  of  literature. 
These  nurses  arc  very  affectionate  and  to  them 
children  become  much  attached. 

The  Sinhalese  seem  to  be  painfully  conscious 
of  the  superiority  of  the  white  races;  they  call 
every  white  man  "master,"  and  all  the  sho[)- 
keepcrs  he^y  the  "  master  "  to  buy  this  or  that. 
Jinrikisha  men,  bep^,c^ars,  and  shopmen  are  pain- 
fully persistent.  They  follow  one  throu<^h  the 
streets  offerinjj;-  their  services ;  on  one  occasion 
no  fewer  than  five  formed  a  procession  around  or 
behind  me,  until  decided  words  drove  them 
away.  The  population  in  Colombo  is  very  mixed, 
Sinhalese,  Nubians,  Arabs,  Javanese,  Afj^hans, 
Kaffirs,  and  Jews  being- constantly  seen,  but  there 
are  no  Chinamen.  I  saw  on  the  street  three 
American  Nep^roes,  their  speech  and  dress  indi- 
cating their  country  ;  they  were  probably  cooks 
on  some  sailing  ship  in  the  harbor. 

Crows  are  plentiful.  They  hover  about  the 
ships,  fill  the  streets,  are  everywhere  ;  probably 
they  are  in  some  sense  scavengers  in  the  towns 
of  the  East.  The  Sinhalese  canoe  is  long  and 
very  n  irrow  and  has  an  outrigger  fastened  by 


Ut 


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300 


AUOl'ND   rilK   WORM) 


arched  bamboo  poles.  With  this  apparently 
frail  craft  the  natives  will  ventnre  far  out  in  al- 
most any  weather.  They  also  have  catamarans 
in  frequent  use,  similar  in  design  to  boats  I  saw 
at  the  Hawaiian  Islands  ;  but  the  latter  boats, 
like  the  people,  were  much  better  in  finish  and 
in  appearance. 

A  Comparison. — How  does  the  Island  of  Cey- 
lon compare  with  the  Hawaiian  Islands?  That 
is  a  fair  question,  and  to  it  I  give  as  fair  an  an- 
swer as  possible.  In  historic  interest,  in  variety 
of  productions,  in  size  and  solidity  of  hotels, 
shops,  offices,  and  some  public  buildings,  Colom- 
bo far  surpasses  Honolulu  ;  but  in  well  cultivated 
lawns,  trained  .shrubs,  superb  lines  of  royal 
palms,  luxuriant  growths  of  many  other  beauti- 
ful tropical  trees,  and  in  the  intelligence  of  the 
natives  and  the  enterprise  and  success  of  foreign- 
ers, and  especially  in  the  charm  of  its  matchless 
atmosphere,  Honolulu  stands  peerless  among  all 
the  islands  of  the  seas,  and  in  the  last  respect 
among  the  countries  of  the  world.  Colombo  is 
more  than  four  times  the  size  of  Honolulu,  and 
gives  evidences  in  many  ways  of  its  great  an- 
tiquity and  varied  forms  of  civilization.  Hono- 
lulu has  just  been  rescued  from  savagery  ;  but  it 
has  made  noteworthy  progress  and  gives  promise 
of  a  still  more  remarkable  future. 

Much  interest  was  felt  in  all  this  region  over 
the  funeral  of  the  sultan  of  Johore,  who  died  in 
London  early  in  June  He  was  widely  know  in 
London,  and  at  one  time  figured  in  an  unsavory 


CITIKS   OK   CKYKON 


301 


social  scandal  ;  he  was  not  nnknown  in  America. 
He  was  a  man  of  ability  in  many  ways,  and 
showed  an  appreciation  of  the  proj^ress  made  by 
civilized  nations.  His  remains  were  carried  by 
the  P.  &  O.  steamer  "  Bombay  "  nntil  they  were 
taken  on  board  Her  Majesty's  Crniser  "  Mercnry," 
which  was  to  convey  them  to  Penan<j,  and  thence 
they  would  be  taken  to  Johore.  The  deceased 
sultan's  flag  floated  over  his  remains.  The  fu- 
neral at  Johore  was  to  be  the  grandest  ever  ac- 
corded a  Malay  potentate.  In  all  the  mosques 
on  Friday,  the  twenty-third  of  August,  the  Ma- 
lays held  services  in  memory  of  the  deceased. 

At  two  o'clock,  Thursday,  August  29,  we  left 
Colombo  for  Bombay.  These  notes  were  written 
with  the  ship  gliding  over  the  waves.  We  sailed 
first  through  a  part  of  the  Indian  Ocean,  or  it 
might  be  called  the  bay  of  Bengal,  and  rounding 
Cape  Comorin  we  were  in  the  Arabian  Sea ;  as 
we  rounded  the  cape  the  chart  show^ed  the  Mal- 
dive  Islands  on  our  port  hand.  The  trip  was 
ideal,  the  sea  being  like  glass,  the  moon  bright, 
and  the  air  cool.  At  three  o'clock,  Sunday  p.  m., 
we  were  at  Bombay,  and  soon  after  I  was  in  the 
Baptist  church  of  that  city,  with  gratitude  to 
God  for  all  his  mercies  on  this  journey. 

It  was  now  just  exactly  ninety  days  since  I  left 
New  Voik,  and  counting  the  day  of  arrival  in 
Bombay,  just  fifty  of  the  ninety  days  had  been 
spent  on  the  sea ;  and  of  the  last  thirty  days  but 
parts  had  been  spent  on  the  shore,  and  every 
night  but  one  was  passed  in  some  one  of  several 
boats.     Welcome  India ! 


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INIMKA 


'  \ 


H\\\'()\\\\  I'onlinuiii;;  our  joimuv  tlnoii^jli 
luili.i,  il  is  lilliiij;  tli.it  ;i  I'li.iplii  slioiild  Ik' 
lU'vntcil  lo  tlu-  liistnty  .iiul  I'luuai'tii  ist  ii  s  ol"  this 
\.>st  riMpiii'.  'This  iinpiii*  (.oiisists  of  t\vil\(' 
|>io\itu\'s  iliicolly  uiitli'i  Hritisli  c-oiitn)!,  mikI  nl' 
al)OMt  owe  luimlrnl  ami  lilly  ItMulaloiy  vStalis  and 
|>iiuiMpalitios  wliioli  acknow  li-ds^r  tlir  aiithotity 
i>r  [he  Hiilish  cn^wn.  'Tlio  wholo  ciiipiio  lom- 
pvisos  about  owe  million  \\\c  hnndicd  thousand 
sijuaio  miles,  ami  piMliaps  two  humlicd  and 
ciohtv  to  tluvi'  Inuuhod  nnllion  inhabitants,  in- 
dudiui;  what  is  known  as  Hiitish  Hnrma.  Attcn- 
tiiin  has  boon  called  ti>  tlu*  fact  that  tlu-  area  and 
]>opnlation  arc  just  about  t'(|ual  to  that  of  all 
l*!uio|v.  loss  the  cmpiivof  Russia;  and  also  that 
tho  |H>pulation  is  nu)iv  than  donl>lc  that  of  all 
iuijHMial  Komc,  imdiulino-  all  the  races  and 
nations  that  acknowlcdjL^vd  the  Roman  authority 
in  the  days  of  its  meridian  splend(M'.  (iibbon 
makes  the  population  of  Rome  at  that  time  one 
lunulred  am;  twenty  millions. 


•i'  jih', 


'^  \d 


i'    » 


I 


\ 


(•'I 


Nl'*  India. — The  Indians  really  liavc  no  name 
to  describe  their  vast  country.  Bharata  is  the 
name   of   a   legendary  king  of   the  Lunar  line 


;oj 


**  INhlKA  " 


A'W 


ol      Sn\i  Icij-lis.        Ill      Slllisklit     lllc     tIMIIlc     til"     llic 

iniiiih)'  \v<»iil<l  l>c  I'.liat.'il.i-v.MsliM,  lint  it  Ims 
1)1(11  well  N.iid  lli.il  Siiiiskiil  is  no  iiion-  llic  hm- 
^MiajL^f  nl"  [\\v  cntmli  V  tliaii  I.aiin  is  llu-  laii^iia^c 

Sir  Joliii  Stiaclu  y  tills  lis  in  liis  k  (ciil  v<»liiim' 
oil  India  Ihal  tlic  inosi  csstnlial  lad  ahoiil  India 
wliicii  a  stiidiiit  «»f  thai  connlry  can  Icain  is, 
paradoxical  as  llic  slalciiicnt  may  sccni,  that  tlicic 
is  no  such  country  as  India.  That  is  simply  a 
name  which  wc  j^ivc  to  a  rcj^ion  rcjncscntin;^  a 
niimhcr  of  coiinliics.  lie  also  reminds  iis  that 
the  dilTcieiicis  hctwit'ii  lUiij^al  and  the  Piinjal), 
or  hetwccn  Madias  and  Kajpnlaiia  are,  heyond 
comparison,  j.',nater  than  hetwccn  the  different 
coiintriis  of  I'airope.  He  ariinns  that  Scotland 
is  more  like  vS|)aiii  than  lUiij^al  is  like  the  I'lin- 
jal).  The  iiativi'  of  Calcutta  or  liomhay  is  as 
niiicli  a  forcij^iicr  in  Delhi  or  Peshawar,  as  an 
haij^lishman  is  a  forei^^ner  in  Rome  or  Paris. 
Hiitain  iicvi-r  con(|iiered  the  people  of  India; 
till  re  never  was  a  peoj)le  of  India,  never  a  lan- 
}4nan;e  of  India,  never  a  religion  of  India,  never 
a  national  sentiment  in  India.  'iMiere  never  was 
a  country  of  India  in  the  sense  of  there  heiii^r 
any  sort  of  unity,  physical,  social,  or  relij^rions. 
P.ritaiii  merely  coiupiercd  India's  coiu|ncrors. 

The  name  Ilindnstan  is  sinii)ly  Hindu  and 
s//r//  or  s//ur//^  meaninj;-  land,  or  settled  habita- 
tion; hnt  this  word  is  of  Persian  ori^n'n,  and 
thus  the  iiaiiic  means  jnst  the  land  or  habitation 
of  the  Hinclns,  or  of  the  river  Indus,  just  as 
Afghanistan   is  the  land  of  the  Afghans.     The 


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AROUND   THE   WORLD 


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Persians  ai)plied  the  name  Hindus  at  first  only 
to  the  dwellers  on  the  banks  of  the  river  Sind/iit ; 
this  was  the  Sanskrit  name  for  Indus.  The  chanj^e 
of  s  into  h  gives  us  the  Persian  Jlind.  The  Greeks 
borrowed  the  name  from  the  Persians,  and  by  the 
])eculiarity  of  the  Greek  tongue,  Hind  became 
Ind.  By  certain  linguistic  causes  this  name  was 
tlius  given  at  first  to  the  valley  of  the  Indus,  and 
later  to  the  whole  country. 

Sometimes  we  speak  of  the  East  Indies  as 
opposed  to  the  West  Indies,  but  while  this  is  an 
old  name  and  is  still  foinid  in  some  of  the  early 
Parliamentary  records,  it  is  acknowledged  by  all 
to  be  an  inaccurate  name.  Bishop  John  F. 
Hurst  entitles  his  work  on  India,  "  Indika,"  de- 
riving the  title  from  the  Greek  Megasthenes,  who 
was  the  first  writer  to  portray  the  inner  life  of 
India  to  the  western  world.  Strictly  speaking, 
Indika  means  Indian  things.  The  book  which 
Megasthenes  wrote  on  his  return  to  Greece  was 
an  account  of  his  travels  in  the  distant  land 
of  India.  This  is  not,  therefore,  a  title  of  the 
country  so  much  as  a  word  meaning  certain  things 
in  that  country. 


^;l 


',\\ 


The  Country  Described. — India  is  the  mid- 
dle of  the  three  irregularly  shaped  peninsulas 
wliicli  jut  southward  from  the  mainland  of  Asia. 
Attention  has  been  called  to  the  fact  of  the  simi- 
larity of  position  between  India  and  Italy  on  the 
map.  India  is  a  vast  triangle  with  its  base  on 
the  H'malayan  range  of  mountains ;  the  west 
side  is  washed,  for  the  most  part,  by  the  Arabian 


U 


"  INDIKA  " 


305 


Sea.  It  is  bounded  on  the  north  by  China,  Turk- 
istan,  and  Tibet,  from  which  it  is  separated  by 
the  Himalayan  range.  On  the  east  by  Burma 
and  Siani,  and  on  the  west  by  Baluchistan  and 
Afghanistan.  The  coast  of  the  country  east  of 
Cape  Comorin,  the  southern  extremity  of  the 
peninsula,  is  washed  by  the  bay  of  Bengal.  The 
extent  of  the  coast  line  is  upward  of  four  thou- 
sand miles  in  all,  and  one-half  of  this  distance  is 
on  the  bay  of  Bengal.  The  extreme  length  of  the 
Peninsula  from  north  to  south  is  about  nineteen 
hundred  miles,  and  its  extreme  breadth  from  east 
to  west,  not  including  British  Burma,  is  about 
seventeen  hundred  miles. 

In  the  north  are  the  extensive  river  basins  of 
the  Indus  and  the  Ganges.  In  the  central  portion 
of  the  country  is  the  great  diamond  shaped  table- 
land, with  its  greatest  length  from  north  to  south. 
The  plain  of  the  Indus  comprises  the  Punjab. 
This  is  "  the  country  of  the  five  rivers."  The 
plain  of  Sind  is  rainless  and  unproductive  except 
as  artificially  irrigated.  The  plain  of  the  Ganges 
constitutes  Hindustan  proper  ;  this  is  the  densely 
populated  region,  teeming  with  fertility  and 
especially  rich  in  historic  interest.  The  high- 
lands of  central  India  comprehend  the  whole  of 
the  interior  plateau  not  included  in  the  Deccan. 
The  Deccan  was  the  term  originally  applied  to 
the  whole  peninsula  of  India  south  of  the  Ner- 
budda  River;  but  the  term  is  now  greatly  re- 
stricted. This  portion  of  the  country  consists 
for  the  most  part  of  an  elevated  table-land  en- 
closed  by  plains  which   reach   to  the  seashore, 

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306 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


and  being  buttressed  by  the  eastern  and  western 
Ghats.  I  may  be  permitted  to  refer  aj^ain  to  Sir 
John  Strachey.  Pie  calls  attention  to  the  danger 
arising  from  over-bold  generalizations  on  India. 
Nothing  conld  be  more  complete  than  the  delu- 
sion that  the  people  generally  live  on  rice.  In 
the  greater  part  of  India  rice  is  a  luxury  en- 
joyed only  by  the  comparatively  rich.  It  grows 
chiefly  where  the  climate  is  hot  and  damp.  He 
estimates  that  out  of  the  whole  population  not 
more  than  one-fourth  live  on  rice.  Millets  and 
pulses  are  the  chief  food  of  the  people  in  many 
parts  of  India.  Many  people  get  their  ideas  of 
India  from  what  they  have  seen  or  heard  on  the 
coasts,  and  because  the  ordinary  food  iu  I^ower 
Bengal  is  rice,  it  is  assumed  that  this  is  the 
ordinary  food  all  over  the  country.  Sir  Henry 
Maine  shows  how  Mr.  Buckle,  in  the  general 
introduction  to  his  "  History  of  Civilization," 
has  erred  by  his  unwise  generalization.  He  de- 
rives all  the  distinctive  institutions  of  India,  and 
the  peculiarities  of  the  people,  from  their  con- 
sumption of  rice.  This  food,  he  tells  us,  "  is  of 
an  oxygenous  rather  than  a  carbonaceous  char- 
acter, hence  the  law  of  caste  prevails,  that  oppres- 
sion is  rife,  that  rents  are  high,  and  that  customs 
and  laws  are  stereotyped."  Sir  John  Strachey 
wisely  remarks  that :  "  This  is  as  if  an  Iiidi.uj 
traveler,  landing  on  the  west  coast  of  Ireland, 
and  finding  that  the  people  live  on  potatoes, 
were  to  assume  that  potatoes  were  the  ordi- 
nary food  throughout  Europe,  and  was  to  base 
upon  the  fact  conclusions  regarding  the  condi- 


i-l 


"indika" 


3^7 


tioiis  of  society  in  Germany  and  Spain."  These 
unwise  j^^eneralizations  will  account  for  the  many 
contradictory  statements  which  we  hear  from 
many  persons  who  have  lived  in  only  one  sec- 
tion of  India  and  who  have  had  but  few  oppor- 
tunities for  travel  or  mingling  with  the  people  of 
different  sections. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  when  the  sun  sets 
at  six  o'clock  in  Calcutta  it  is  just  midday  in 
England,  and  early  morning  in  New  York. 


Ik , 


A  Rich  Continent. — India  is  rich  in  varie- 
ties of  scenery,  climate,  and  productions.  It 
boasts  the  highest  mountains  in  the  world,  and 
the  country  slopes  from  these  lofty  heights  to 
the  vast  river  deltas.  It  is  not  really  a  country, 
in  the  ordinary  sense  of  the  term,  but  rather  a 
continent.  Himalaya  means  the  "  dwelling-place 
of  snow,"  the  Sanskrit  word  for  snow  being  ///may 
and  the  word  for  house,  or  abode,  being  alaya. 
These  mountains  form  a  double  wall  along  the 
north  of  India,  and  at  their  eastern  and  western 
extremities  they  send  oul  offshoots  to  the  south. 
The  country  is  immensely  productive  when  prop- 
erly watered  by  rain  or  by  irrigation.  Three 
harvests  are  often  reaped,  and  there  are  never 
less  than  two.  Rice,  contrary  to  the  ordinary 
opinion,  is  the  staple  crop  in  only  a  small  part 
of  India,  and  the  daily  food  of  only  a  compara- 
tively small  proportion  of  the  people.  Elephants 
are  a  government  monopoly,  and  shooting  them 
is  prohibited  except  under  well-recognized  re- 
strictions.    The   right    to   capture  elephants  is 


»    1- 


,t ;  i  .• 


\  'I 
I. 


308 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


>;^ 


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:    '^ 


leased  out  tinder  special  laws.  There  is  a  fine 
of  five  hundred  rupees  for  tlie  first  offense  of  the 
man  who  kills,  captures,  injures,  or  attempts  to 
injure,  capture,  or  kill  an  elephant. 

Few  people  know  how  deadly  the  poisonous 
snakes  of  India  are.  It  is  often  supposed  that 
the  stories  regarding  this  matter  are  greatly 
exaggerated,  but  statistics  show  that  in  1877, 
nearly  seventeen  thousand  persons  were  killed 
by  snakes  as  compared  with  eight  hundred  and 
nineteen  who  were  killed  by  tigers.  During  the 
same  year  the  sum  of  eight  hundred  and  eleven 
pounds  was  paid  for  the  destruction  of  one  hun- 
dred and  twenty-seven  thousand  snakes. 

One-third  of  the  country  is  still  under  the 
control  of  native  hereditary  rulers.  The  popu- 
lation subject  to  these  rulers  is  about  fifty-four 
millions,  or  about  one-fifth  of  the  whole  popula- 
tion of  the  countrv.  The  results  of  recent  efforts 
made  to  secure  the  exact  census  indicate  that  the 
population  is  larger  and  not  smaller  than  was 
usually  estimated.  According  to  the  report  of 
the  registrar  general  upon  the  English  census  of 
1 87 1,  "  Any  density  of  a  large  country  approach- 
ing two  hundred  to  a  square  mile  implies  mines, 
manufactories,  or  the  industry  of  cities."  But  in 
India  there  is  a  density  of  six  hundred  to  a  square 
mile  throughout  large  districts  of  the  country. 
This  is  a  remarkable  statement,  as  showing  the 
great  density  of  population  in  most  parts  of  that 
vast  empire. 

There  is  a  well-graded  system  of  education 
throughout  the  country ;  and    there    are  three 


lU' 


"indika" 


309 


universities,  one  each  at  Calcutta,  Madras,  and 
Bombay.  A  certain  number  of  colleges  are  as- 
sociated with  each  of  these  universities.  Below 
these  colleges  are  high  schools,  where  students 
are  prepared  to  enter  the  colleges  and  univer- 
sities. There  are  also  middle  schools  and  pri- 
mary schools,  where  an  elementary  education  is 
afforded.  The  colleges  are  numerous  in  different 
parts  of  the  peninsula.  The  Indian  educational 
system  is  designed  to  encourage  the  cultivation 
of  the  English  language  and  to  diffuse  a  knowl- 
edge of  European  science,  art,  and  philosophy ; 
but  very  much  still  remains  to  be  done  regarding 
the  impartation  of  even  the  rudiments  of  educa- 
tion. Enormous  portions  of  the  territory  are 
yet  practically  untouched  by  British  instruction 
or  any  civilizing  influence.  Sir  John  Strachey, 
in  the  volume  to  which  allusion  has  already 
been  made,  charges  James  Mill  with  great  mis- 
representations regarding  Warren  Hastings  and 
his  alleged  cruelties  in  the  province  of  Rohil- 
khand.  The  history  of  Mr.  Mill,  he  charges,  is 
"saturated  with  party  politics."  Sir  John  person- 
ally investigated  the  facts  regarding  the  sale  and 
extermination  of  the  Rohillas,  having  spent  sev- 
eral years  of  his  Indian  service  in  that  province. 
He  declares  that  no  one  there  ever  heard  of  the 
atrocities  which  still  fill  Englishmen  with  shame ; 
that  the  ICnglish  army  was  not  hired  out  for  the 
destruction  of  the  Rohillas  ;  that  the  story  of 
their  destruction  is  purely  fictitious ;  that  Mill 
garbled  his  quotations,  utterly  misleading  his 
readers ;   that    Lord    Maccvulay  accepted  Burke 


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and  Mill  as  authorities;  that  thus  Macaulay  was 
misled  ;  that  these  false  statements  are  mislead- 
ing intelligent  Indian  youths,  creating  in  their 
minds  feelings  of  bitterness  toward  Britain  ;  and 
that,  finally,  this  entire  period  of  history  will  yet 
be  rewritten,  giving  the  truth  which  has  so  long 
been  concealed-  This  is  a  matter  of  the  utmost 
importance,  and  I  am  well  satisfied  that  Sir 
James  Stephen,  Sir  Henry  Maine,  and  Sir  John 
Strachey,  by  their  robust,  careful,  and  dispassion- 
ate criticism,  place  all  students  of  history  under 
a  great  debt  of  gratitude,  and  relieve  the  reputa- 
tions of  many  Englishmen  in  the  early  days  of 
European  history  in  India  of  enormous  alleged 
cruelties  which  never  were  committed. 

The  railway  system  dates  from  the  adminis- 
tration of  Lord  Dalhousie.  The  first  line  of  rail- 
way was  projected  in  1843,  by  Sir  Macdonald 
Stevenson,  who  was  afterward  active  in  forming 
the  East  India  Railway  Company  ;  but  the  fi- 
nancial panic,  which  soon  afterward  followed, 
entirely  defeated  for  the  time  being  the  project 
wh"  h  had  been  inaugurated.  Bombay  saw  the 
first  sod  for  a  railway  turned  in  1850,  a  line  of 
road  to  Thana,  a  distance  of  only  three  miles, 
was  opened  in  1853.  I^oi'<i  Dalhousie  contem- 
plated five  great  trunk  lines  connecting  all  the 
chief  cities  and  the  military  cantonments.  The 
total  mileage  of  railways  at  present  is  nearly 
twenty  thousand  ;  and  of  this  total  over  eight 
thousand  miles  are  State  lines  worked  by  com- 
panies. 

Cotton  weaving  is  one  of  the  oldest  indigenous 


"  INDIKA  " 


311 


industries  of  the  country.  It  is  an  interesting 
fact  that  the  Greek  name  for  cotton  fabrics, 
"sindon,"  is  etymologically  the  same  as  that  of 
India  or  Sind.  In  latter  days  Calicut,  on  the 
Malabar  coast,  gave  us  the  name  of  the  fabric 
still  called  calico.  In  this  way  the  study  of  ety- 
mology throws  light  on  the  history  of  Indian 
industries,  as  a  similar  stu-^y  throws  the  bright- 
est light  on  the  tribal  relations  of  the  earliest 
populations  of  India.  Cotton  and  silk  always 
formed  a  part  of  the  rich  cargoes  which  Euro- 
pean traders  brought  back  from  India  when  they 
found  their  way  to  that  mysterious  land.  The 
English  were  especially  careful  to  fix  their  ear- 
liest settlements  in  the  midst  of  the  weaving 
population.  It  is  stated  on  good  authority,  that 
in  delicacy  of  texture,  in  grace  of  design,  and  in 
fastness  of  color,  Indian  cotton  can  still  hold  its 
own  against  the  world ;  but  although  labor  is 
there  so  cheap,  the  manufacturers  of  Manchester 
can  undersell  the  handwork  of  India. 

The  Government. — The  government  of  In- 
dia is  extremely  complex.  It  is  to  be  expected 
th.at  a  government  which  is  the  outgrowth  of  so 
many  civilizations  and  conquests,  would  be  com- 
plex in  the  extreme.  By  several  acts  of  Parlia- 
ment, supreme  authority  is  vested  both  for  ex- 
ecutive and  legislative  purposes  in  the  viceroy, 
who  is  called,  in  a  business  sense,  governor  gen- 
eral. The  ultimate  sanction  to  all  legislative 
acts  must  be  given  by  the  secretary  of  state  for 
India,  at  Westminster.     There  was  at  first  the 


';i 


fill. 


•': 


, 


;      i ' : 

1  1    ;  :l. 

'  '    '1 

'  ■  > 

. 

'  ',  .  ' 

i 

1  L 
i  1 1 

'■J '} 


4* 


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.••  I 


■*1 


*  ■ .: 


■  I- 


•I    / 


,   '< 


i\\  (! 


k.-\  >• 


312 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


rule  of  the  East  India  Company.  This  lasted 
from  1600  to  1857,  when  the  Sepoy  rebellion 
necessitated  a  change  in  the  government.  The 
present  government  has  continued  since  1857. 
It  became  evident  after  the  Sepoy  rebellion  that 
to  hold  India  the  government  itself  must  be  di- 
rectly responsible. 

The  real  work  of  governaient  is  done  by  the 
local  body  in  India.  The  queen,  who  is  empress 
of  India,  of  course  is  nominally  the  supreme 
head  of  authority.  In  exceptional  cases  the  gov- 
ernor general  may  act  independently  of  the  coun- 
cil. There  is  an  executive  council  meeting  reg- 
ularly at  short  intervals,  and  there  is  also  a 
legislative  coimcil,  meeting  01; ly  when  required. 
The  secretary  of  state  for  India  is  vested  with 
vast  power.  He  represents  the  sovereign  ;  he 
can  veto  any  legislative  enactment,  and  the  vice- 
roy and  his  council  in  India  are  almost  entirely 
under  his  control.  He  is  governed  by  the  advice 
of  the  local  council,  and  his  course  usually  is 
considerate  and  wise,  but  his  power  is  well-nigh 
unlimited.  The  viceroy,  often  called  the  gov- 
ernor general,  is  appointed  by  the  queen,  and  his 
term  lasts  five  years.  His  winter  capital  is  at 
Calcutta,  where  he  lives  in  the  great  Government 
House,  with  almost  regal  honors;  but  his  sum- 
mer capital  is  in  Simla.  For  administrative 
purposes  there  are  five  provincial  governments  ; 
and  each  of  these  is  equipped  with  civil  and  judi- 
cial officials.  The  two  presidencies  of  Madras 
and  Bombay  still  retain  evidences  of  their  orig- 
inal equality  with  Bengal ;  each  has  an  army, 


t-ii  1 


i  I 


the 


"  indika" 


3^3 


and  each  a  civil  service  of  its  own  ;  each  also 
has  a  governor  directly  appointed  to  his  place 
with  the  execntivc  and  legislative  conncil. 

The  Cluirch  of  England  exercises  a  vast 
amount  of  authority  in  India.  The  bishop  of 
Calcutta  is  the  metropolitan  bishop,  and  there  is 
a  bishop  of  the  Church  of  England  in  Madras, 
Bombay,  and  the  Punjab.  Tliere  are  some  chap- 
lains of  the  Church  of  Scotland,  but  the  great  ma- 
jority of  the  well-nigh  two  hundred  chaplains 
belong  to  the  Cliurch  of  England.  These  chap- 
lains are  supported  at  enormous  cost.  Perhaps  it 
would  not  be  discourteous  to  say  that  they  by  no 
means  are  worth  that  cost. 

I  had  the  opportunity  of  meeting  many  offi- 
cers of  the  army  and  learned  much  concerning 
both  the  native  and  the  British  armies  in  India. 
It  is  a  matter  for  sincere  sorrow  that  immorality 
prevails  to  so  large  a  degree  in  the  British  army 
and  is  now  making  its  way  also  into  the  native 
regiments  of  the  country.  Facts  learned  con- 
cerning this  matter  are  of  the  gravest  kind  and 
are  worthy  of  the  most  careful  consideration  of 
officers,  of  Christians,  and  of  all  patriots  and 
philanthropists,  both  in  Great  Britain  and  in 
India. 

The  army  for  India,  during  the  government 
of  the  country  by  the  East  India  Company,  did 
not  form  a  part  of  the  regular  army  of  Great 
Britain.  There  is  now  a  large  body  of  English 
soldiers  all  the  time  in  India.  India  pays  the 
bill  for  her  soldiers,  both  native  and  European. 
I  was  surprised  to  learn  that  the  government  at 


^ 


,  .;i 


•M 


1 . .  I 


\     » 


1. 


!!'i 


(         '      ' 


I  i 


.  \    i 


:4*  f; 


V! ,  .... 


^1    %  ^ 


'i;l 


fi 


I        I 

1/5 


314 


AROUND   THK    WORM) 


home  does  not  pay  a  shillinj^  toward  their  sup- 
port, not  even  the  expenses  of  their  transporta- 
tion. It  is  thus  a  fact  that  nearly  one-third  of 
the  British  army  costs  tiie  liritish  taxpayer  alxso- 
hitely  nothinj^.  Tlie  present  stren<;tli  of  the 
army  is  two  hundred  and  thirty  tliousand  ;  and 
of  this  number  about  seventy  tliousand  are  luiro- 
pean  troops.  Thirty  thousand  are  made  up  of 
the  militia,  the  younj^^  nien  in  the  various  offices 
and  railway  companies  bein<;  rej^ularly  drilled 
and  liable  to  be  called  upon  for  service  at  a  mo- 
ment's notice.  The  native  soldiers  number 
about  one  hundred  and  thirty  thousand.  The 
annual  cost  of  supporting;  this  army  is  put  down 
at  ;^i6,ooo,ooo ;  of  which  sum  ;^i2, 000,000  is 
spent  in  India.  The  horses  for  the  cavalry  serv- 
ice are  mostly  brought  from  Australia. 

This  native  army  is  thoroughly  well  drilled. 
I  was  freqently  told  that  no  part  of  the  army  of 
Great  Britain  is  more  thoroughly  equipped  for 
service  than  the  native  regiments  of  India.  The 
officers  and  soldiers  long  for  the  opportunity 
of  showing  to  Great  Britain  and  to  the  world 
what  they  can  do  on  the  field  of  battle.  If 
Great  Britain  and  the  United  States  should 
engage  in  war,  native  regiments  from  India  rep- 
resenting various  tribes  and  faiths,  would  be 
brought  immediately  into  conflict  with  American 
.soldiers.  India  pays  her  own  bills  for  her  sol- 
diers and  Great  Britain  takes  remarkable  care  to 
guard  herself  from  liabilities  for  this.  Britain 
rules  India  largely  by  Indian  troops  and  makes 
India  pay  for  keeping  herself  in  subjection. 


iv*^ 


\ 


^  I 


.1. 


XXVI 


^   k 


CONQUESTS  OK    INDIA 

AT  the  dawn  of  Indian  history  two  races  arc 
seen  stnig^^linjr  for  the  soil.  ( )nc  is  a  fair- 
skinned  people,  who  seem  to  have  but  lately  en- 
tered the  country  by  the  northwest  passes.  They 
were  of  the  <rreat  Aryan  stock;  they  spoke  a 
stately  lanj^niajre,  and  they  worshiped  ^^ods  who 
were  on  friendly  terms  with  the  people.  The 
other  race  was  distinctly  of  a  lower  type.  The 
new-comers  drove  them  from  the  j>lains  to  the 
mountains  or  made  them  their  slaves.  All  au- 
thorities are  now  agreed  that  the  Hindus  were 
not  the  first  inhabitants  of  the  country,  but  were 
an  invading  race. 

The  Aborigines.— These  rude  aboriginal 
tribes  are  still  in  the  central  and  southern  por- 
tions of  India.  We  do  not  know  the  race  name 
of  the  lower  tribes  ;  they  are,  therefore,  generally 
called  non-Aryan,  or  aborigines.  They  have  left 
no  written  records.  Their  monuments  which 
have  come  down  to  us  are  rude  stone  circles  and 
upright  slabs  beneath  which  they  buried  their 
dead.  They  were  supposed  to  have  consisted  of 
three  great  stocks— the  Tibeto-Rurman  tribes,  the 
Kolarian  tribes,  and  the  Dravidian.     War  seems 

315 


r 


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\] 


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Hi  ■, 
1 


316 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


'¥.■ 


\) 


J     * 


..  ! 


to  have  Ik'lmi  their  chief  occupation;  it  is  ahnost 
certain  that  they  were  not  accinainted  with  tlie 
use  of  metals,  but  used  rou^h  flint  weapons  of 
various  sorts.  Other  tribes  succeeded  them  wlio 
fouj^ht  with  stone  implements,  not  unlike  those 
used  by  early  vScandinavian  peoples. 

Then  came  a  race  that  knew  the  use  of  metals, 
that  fouj^ht  with  iron  weapons,  and  that  wore 
copper  and  ^old  ornaments.  The  Vedic  hymns 
teach  us  that  the  conquerors  called  the  conquered 
peoples  Dasas^  or  slaves.  They  despised  them 
as  flat- nosed  or  noseless,  and  as  feeders  on  flesh. 
In  Bengal  the  name  Dasas  still  remains  as  the 
name  of  many  of  the  lower  classes.  The  race 
from  the  nortli  prided  themselves  on  their  fair 
complexions,  and  the  word  for  color,  varua^  came 
to  mean  race  or  caste.  Their  poets,  perhaps 
four  th  /usand  years  a^o,  praised  in  t'  '^.  "  Ris[- 
vcda  "  their  <^ods  who  had  protected  Aryan 

color  and  who  had  "  subjected  the  blas.iv  skin  to 
the  Aryan  man." 

We  now  come  to  the  period  of  the  j^reat  in- 
vasions of  India.  There  are  many  le<^ends  of 
the  sovereigns  of  the  race  of  the  sun  and  the 
moon.  Their  contests  are  recorded  in  the  poem 
known  as  the  "  Mahabharatay  The  most  cele- 
brated of  these  was  Rama  Ramchunder.  He  is 
supposed  to  have  lived  in  the  twelfth  or  thir- 
teenth century  b.  c.  His  deeds  are  the  subject 
of  the  great  epic  called  the  *■'•  Rajuayaua^  These 
legends  tell  us  that  a  battle  of  fifty-six  kings  was 
fought  for  eighteen  days;  but  all  these  matters 
are  purely  legendary.     The  first  event  to  which 


CONQUKSTS   OK    INDIA 


Z^7 


H 


we  can  attach  liistoric  iniportaticc  was  tlic  in- 
vasion of  India  l)y  tlic  Persians  under  Kinj^^ 
Darius,  about  518-512  h.  C.  Ilcaltaclied  oreat 
provinces  to  his  empire,  so  that  it  is  said  that 
one-third  of  tiie  revenues  of  tile  Persian  ertjwn 
came  from  tlie  provinces  on  the  Indus. 

The  Grhkk  Pkriod. — In  327  h.  c.  Alexander 
the  (ireat  invaded  India.  We  have  from  tlie 
historians  of  his  expedition  extensi\'e  accounts 
of  the  manners  and  customs  of  the  Hindu  races; 
but  there  is  not  space  in  tliis  chapter  to  <^o  into 
the  details  of  tliis  invasion.  After  the  downfall 
of  this  empire  India  was  divided  into  a  ninnber 
of  petty  king;doms.  Great  importance  is  attached 
by  all  historians  to  the  Greek  episode  in  Indian 
history  ;  it  was  the  revival  of  intercourse  between 
long  separated  members  of  the  <:^reat  Arvan 
family.  Bishop  Hurst  calls  attention  to  the  fact 
that  the  two  j^roups  were  strau<>;ely  alike,  whether 
studying  astrology  on  the  plains  of  Delhi,  or 
rearing  the  matchless  Parthenon  at  Athens,  or 
building  on  the  banks  of  the  Tiber  a  city  which 
should  become  the  mistress  of  the  world.  Indeed, 
as  he  reminds  us,  the  ancient  Hindu  Pantheon 
is  strangely  similar  to  that  of  the  Greeks.  This 
subject  is  worthy  of  careful  consideration  by  all 
who  wish  to  become  masters  of  the  influences 
exercised  by  the  great  Aryan  races. 

The  Scythian  invasion,  continuing  from  100 
B.  c.  to  500  A.  D.,  started  not  far  from  the  origi- 
nal home  of  the  Aryan  race  ;  they  marched  down 
through  the  northwest  pass  into  India,  and  they 


(I, 


■(  I. 


■n 


3i8 


AROUND   T  n:   WORLD 


I   i 


reared  on  the  ruins  of  the  Greek  colonies  a  great 
kingdom.  Tlie  rule  of  the  native  Hindu  in 
India  lasted  about  five  hundred  years.  India 
came  rgain  into  relation  with  the  external  world 
in  715  A.  D.,  when  the  Mohammedan  governor  of 
Bassorah  sent  an  army  to  obtain  restitution  of 
the  Arab  vessel  which  had  been  captured  near 
the  niouth  of  the  Indus.  Then  began  tne  course 
of  the  Mohammedan  conquerors.  No  one  can 
understand  the  history  who  is  not  familiar  with 
this  remarkable  and,  in  many  ways,  brilliant  era 
in  the  history  of  this  great  country.  An  entire 
volume  might  be  devoted  to  this  element  in  the 
history  and  civilization  of  the  Indian  peninsula. 
There  we  'e  great  conquerors,  marvelous  builders 
and  founders  of  empires  among  these  invaders. 
Of  some  of  these  rulers  mention  will  be  made  in 
connection  with  the  cities  which  they  founded 
and  the  great  buildings  which  they  erected. 

Modern  Contacts. — The  Portuguese  were 
the  first  of  the  nations  of  modern  Europe  to  obtain 
a  foothold  in  India.  In  the  sixteenth  century 
they  seized  some  ports  on  the  western  coast  and 
finally  made  themselves  masters  of  important 
cities  and  districts.  Their  capital  was  Goa.  All 
that  the  Portuguese  now  possess  in  India  are  Goa, 
Daman,  and  Din,  with  a  population  of  about  one- 
half  a  million  and  a  territorv  of  four  hundred 
square  miles.  They  are  a  mixed  people,  half 
Indian  and  half  Portuguese.  The  men  are  en- 
gaged largely  as  sailors  and  in  other  foiuis  of 
sea-going  service. 


\\\ 


h.\ 


Vk 


I  . I  '    *llj 


T 


CONQUESTS   OF   INDIA 


319 


The  Dutch  were  the  next  Europeans  to  invade 
Indian  territory.  In  1594  they  reached  the 
eastern  seas  ;  in  1605  they  expelled  the  Portu- 
guese from  certain  territories  and  ccntrolled  the 
commerce  of  the  seas  until  driven  out  by  the 
English.  The  Danes  secured  two  settlements  in 
India,  both  of  which  are  widely  known  in  con- 
nection with  missionary  history,  and  to  one  of 
which  I  shqll  have  occasion  to  allude  later.  The 
French  organized  their  East  India  Companies  in 
1604  ;  and  as  early  as  the  fourteenth  century 
they  roamed  over  many  seas  and  organized  set- 
tlements in  many  countries,  both  on  the  east 
and  on  the  west.  But  the  English,  were  des- 
tined to  put  an  end  to  the  hope  of  French  do- 
minion in  India  by  their  victory  near  Madras,  in 
1759- 

The  English  East  India  Company  was  char- 
tered in  London  in  1600,  and  soon  it  erected 
fortifications  and  established  trading  posts  in 
many  parts  of  the  peninsula.  For  nearly  a  cen- 
tury and  a  half  tliis  great  company  was  almost 
omnipotent  in  its  relations  to  In  lia  and  to  the 
other  countries  having  j.  sts  in  that  land.  It 
finally  surpassed  them  all  in  its  claims  of  suprem- 
acy. This  company  was  re-aly  the  British  nation. 
For  a  long  period  France  and  Britain  strove  for 
the  first  place.  Associated  with  Clive  were 
Watson,  Coote,  Forde ,  and  Warren  Hastings. 
Terrible  were  the  conflicts  between  the  British 
and  various  Indian  tribes.  The  conflict  with 
the  Mahrattas  began  in  1775  and  lasted  for  seven 
years. 


^-'r 


ly. 


f 


a    ;. 


:'•' 


mi 


»tl 


320 


AROUND    THE   WORLD 


Great  Britain  in  Control. — The  story  of 
British  dominion  is  marked  by  great  crnelty, 
often,  doubtless,  necessary,  and  by  great  trials, 
but  by  continuous  victories.  The  "  Black  Hole 
of  Calcutta  "  suggests  a  tragedy  which  will  never 
be  forgotten  in  British  history.  The  battle  of 
Plassey,  which  Clive  fought  against  the  judgment 
of  a  council  of  war,  was  one  of  the  turning-points 
in  the  struggles  of  Britain  for  supremacy  in  India. 
This  battle  gave  Northern  India  to  the  British 
crown.  Between  1818  and  1857  ^^^^  supremacy 
of  Great  Britain  was  apparently  complete. 

In  1857  came  the  terrible  mutiny  known  as 
the  Sepoy  rebellion.  The  British  government 
had  always  been  lenient  in  dealing  with  the 
natives  and  native  tribes.  The  real  cause  of  the 
mutiny  was  the  realization  on  the  part  of  the 
remaining  scions  of  the  old  princely  families 
that  British  supremacy  would  soon  be  complete 
and  the  native  authority  be  entirely  overthrown. 
There  were  minor  causes ;  it  was  said  that  the 
British  government  in  making  cartridges  used 
the  grease  of  cows  and  hogs,  and  that  the  na- 
tives would  be  polluted  when  they  bit  off  the 
ends  of  their  cartridges  in  loading  their  guns. 
The  use  of  this  grease  was  an  offense  to  the 
caste  prejudice  both  of  the  Hindu  and  the  Mo- 
hammedan. Of  the  mutiny  I  shall  speak  more 
fully  when  we  visit  Cawnpore,  Lucknow,  and 
Delhi. 

The  greatest  blessing  which  could  possibly 
have  come  to  India  was  the  triumph  of  Britain 
over  all  European  claims  for  Indian  territory, 


■m 


I , 


■;i  C! 


^ 


CONQUESTS   OF    INDIA 


321 


and  over  all  the  ambitions  of  the  tribes  them- 
selves. Wherever  the  British  fiacr  went,  civil 
and  religions  liberty  speedily  followed.  To-day 
there  are  immensely  difficnlt  problems  for  Great 
Britain  in  the  management  of  the  Indian  penin- 
sula. As  we  have  seen,  a  large  portion  of  the 
territory  is  still  under  the  control  of  native 
princes.  They  are  loyal  in  a  certain  way  to  the 
British  crown,  and  as  between  Great  Britain  and 
Russia  they  prefer  Great  Britain  ;  but  if  they 
believed  that  Russia  would  be  victorious,  should 
a  conflict  arise,  they  would  quickly  transfer 
their  allegiance  to  the  victor.  Great  Britain  is 
nianaging  the  enormously  great  problems  of  In- 
dian government  with  remarkable  wisdom. 

The  British  government  in  India  -s  a  despot- 
ism ;  the  people,  strictly  speaking,  have  no  voice 
m  the  government  of  their  country,  but  it  is  a 
beneficent  and  perhaps  a  necessary  despotism. 
There  is,  however,  a  new  India  coming  to  the 
front.  It  is  made  up  in  part  of  Anglo-Indians 
of  the  second  and  third  generation  in  India,  and 
in  part  of  educated  Indians  themselves,  who  will 
want,  before  many  years  shall  pass,  a  voice  in 
the  government.  They  must  prepare  themselves 
for  the  honors  and  responsibilities  which  await 
thein  in  the  development  of  this  new  India. 

The  hope  of  the  land  is  in  the  dissemination 
of  Christianity.  Nothing  but  Christianity,  with 
its  attendant  education,  will  break  down  the  bar- 
riers of  caste  now  separating  the  various  classes 
iii^  India.  The  spirit  of  caste  seriously  interferes 
with  the  unity  and  effectiveness  of  the  army,  it 


'  '1. 


'I 


'i  ■ 
I: 


I-    ( 


M 


322 


AROUND    THK   WORLD 


y.  \'f 


Jit ; 

■/)  1. 


practically  destroys  all  social  life,  and  it  makes 
the  governinent  of  India  an  extremely  difficult 
task  ;  but  Great  Britain,  under  the  guidance  of 
Christian  faith  and  its  resulting  civil  and  relig- 
ious liberty,  will  solve  all  the  difficult  problems 
and  will  move  on  toward  the  highest  possibil- 
ities of  this  great  country  before  the  twentieth 
century  shall  be  past. 

Reugions  and  Peoples. — It  is  authorita- 
tively stated  that  nineteen  out  of  every  twenty  in 
India  are  either  Hindu  or  Mohammedan,  but  that 
there  are  seven  Hindus  to  every  two  IMoham- 
uiedans.  The  old  races  of  the  southern  part  of 
the  country  are  known  as  the  Dravidians ;  the 
hill  tribes  of  central  India  belong  to  the  family 
known  as  the  Kolarian  ;  the  tribes  of  Indo-Chi- 
nese origin  inhabit  the  southern  slopes  of  the 
Himalayas,  the  greater  part  of  the  At.;^am  Valley, 
and  much  of  Burma.  The  high  caste  Hindus 
are  supposed  to  be  an  offshoot  of  the  noble 
Aryan  race.  The  successful  waves  of  Moham- 
medan conquerors  exercised  much  influence  on 
the  civilization  and  architecture  of  the  country. 
It  is  supposed  that  there  are  at  least  forty  mil- 
lions of  Mohammedans  now  in  India.  They  be- 
long to  four  classes,  and  one  class  claims  to  be 
the  lineal  descendants  of  the  great  prophet.  The 
Sikhs  are  confined  almost  entirely  to  the  Pun- 
jab. Their  strongest  districts  include  the  his- 
torical cities  of  Lahore,  Amritsar,  and  Amballa. 

There  are  nearly  one  hundred  thousand  nom- 
inal Cliristians  of  various  names.    It  is  supposed 


■!!■ 


CONQUESTS   OF   INDIA 


323 


that  at  least  one  quarter  of  them  are  of   Euro- 
pean orio^in,  or  at  least  possess  some  European 
blood.     In  southern  India  the  work  of  the  mis- 
sionaries has  greatly  changed  the  statistics  of  the 
country,  but  in  the  northern  part  of  India  that 
influence    has    not    yet    been    powerfully   felt. 
Christianity   has    been    in   southern    India   for 
many  centuries.     We  know  that  tradition  speaks 
of  the  preaching  of  the  Apostle  Thomas  in  dif- 
ferent  parts  of   southern    India.     The   Roman 
Church  was  the  first  that  secured   a  foothold, 
through    Xavier  and    his   followers.     There  is 
still  an  enormous  amount  of  missionary  work 
to  be  done  in  India.     When  one  contemplates 
the  vastness  of  the  field  yet  unoccupied  he  is 
almost  ready  to  say  that  nothing  has  yet  been 
done,   but   the   next  quarter  of  a   century  will 
probably  see   greater  triumphs  of  Christianity 
than  were   wrought  during  all  of  the  century 
now  closing.     This  century  has  largely  been  a 
period  of  preparation.    All  the  elements  of  civili- 
zation in  railways,  telegraphs,  printing  presses, 
telephones,  and  the  many  other  forms  of  scien- 
tific progress,  will   now  be  consecrated  to  the 
spread  of  the  gospel  and  to  the  advancement 
of  all   the  interests  of  Indian  civilization   and 
Christianization. 


ti' 


;1'4 


:'n 


i\ 


'$ 


i  \ 


■i< 


r. 


i  ii 


XXVII 


CALCUTTA 


;,ili,!|.: 


IT  was  our  purpose  to  arrive  at  Calcutta  by 
steamer  froui  Colombo  ;  but,  as  no  steamer 
was  jjoiuo^  immediately  to  Calcutta,  we  sailed  for 
Bombay,  and  the  trip  from  Bombay  to  Calcutta 
was  made  by  railway.  It  is  not  necessary  now 
to  give  the  details  of  the  journey  across  the 
country,  as  the  return  journey  with  its  visits  to 
its  varied  historic  cities  will  be  fully  described. 
The  approach  to  Calcutta  by  sea  is  most  strik- 
ing. The  pilots  on  the  Hugli  River — this  is  the 
latest  authoritative  spelling — are  well  educated 
and  occupy  a  more  responsible  position  than  any 
other  pilots  on  the  coast.  The  river  is  danger- 
ous and  extremely  difficult  for  navigation  ;  not 
only  are  there  at  certain  seasons  of  the  year  fear- 
ful cyclones,  but  the  bed  of  the  river  changes 
constantly.  New  shoals  are  continually  form- 
ing and  in  order  that  a  pilot  may  safely  take  his 
vessel  over  the  river,  he  must  have  experimental 
knowledge  of  the  shoals  and  tides.  One  of  the 
most  dangerous  of  the  shoals  is  called  the  "James 
and  Mary."  Some  suppose  that  the  name  dates 
to  the  wreck  of  a  vessel  called  the  "  Royal  James 
and  Mary"  on  that  bank  in  1694;  but  there  is 
another  and  better  explanation  of  the  origin  of 
324 


>' 


CALCUTTA 


325 


the  name.  It  is  said  that  in  Hindi  jal  means 
water,  and  mari  means  fatal,  so  that  the  two 
words  mean  "fatal  water."  I  heard  the  most 
tlirillin^  stories  of  the  terrible  experiences  of 
captains  of  varions  vessels  in  this  ''  fatal  water." 
Onr  arrival  was  by  rail  and  not  by  steamer, 
and  therefore  some  of  the  m  >st  interesting^  views 
of  approach  to  the  city  were  not  experienced. 

India's  Capital. — The  word  "  Calcntta  "  is 
the  Kn<^lish  form  of  "A7?//  Ghaita^''''  and  this 
means  simply  t\\Q.  ^^haty  or  landing-place,  of  the 
ji^oddess  Kali,  wife  of  Siva,  whose  temple  stood 
on  the  bank  of  the  river.  Calcutta  is  the  capital 
of  the  province  of  Renewal,  and  the  political  cap- 
ital of  India,  and  so  the  seat  of  the  suprenie  g'ov- 
ernment.  It  is  about  eighty  to  one  hundred 
miles  from  the  seaboard  by  the  river.  The  city 
is  built  along  the  bank  of  the  River  Hugli,  an 
arm  of  the  Ganges,  for  a  distance  of  about  eight 
miles.  Since  the  opening  of  the  Suez  Canal, 
Bombay  has  become  a  sharp  rival  in  all  com- 
mercial respects.  At  the  close  of  the  seven- 
teenth century  Calcutta  was  little  more  than  a 
cluster  of  muddy  villages :  now,  however,  it  has 
a  population  of  nearly  nine  hundred  thousand. 

Its  founding,  by  Governor  Cliarnock,  took 
place  in  the  year  1686.  Then  the  British  mer- 
chants at  Hugli  were  obliged  to  leave  their  fac- 
tory and  go  tw::nty-six  miles  down  the  river 
to  Sutanati.  Their  settlement  spread  rapidly, 
and  soon  it  included  what  was  the  village  of  Cal- 
cutta of  that  day.     In  1689-90  the  members  of 


t-\ 


S 


%\ 


kI 


NYi; 


326 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


m 


<  ij 


'.hi 


f;  I    i 


the  East  India  Company  determined  to  make  this 
place  their  headquarters,  and  in  1696  they  built 
the  original  F'ort  William.  In  1700  three  vil- 
lages surrounding  the  factories  were  conferred 
upon  the  company  by  the  emperor  of  Delhi,  and 
a  moat  was  constructed.  The  place  was  subse- 
quently called  Calcutta,  the  name  of  one  of  the 
villages.  There  were  natural  advantages  in  the 
town  which  enabled  the  people  to  protect  them- 
selves from  the  Mahrattas,  and  Calcutta,  in  1707, 
was  made  the  seat  of  a  presidency,  and  soon  be- 
came one  of  the  safest  places  in  India  for  trade. 
The  low  level  of  the  Hugli  River,  however, 
reridered  drainage  very  difficult,  and  the  result 
was  that  until  a  recent  date  malaria  was  very 
common.  The  jungle  and  paddy  fields  closely 
hemmed  in  the  European  residences.  The  Mai- 
dan,  with  its  gardens  and  promenades,  where 
every  evening  the  rank  and  fashion  of  Calcutta 
may  be  seen,  was  then  a  swamp  for  a  part  of 
each  year.  The  spacious  Wellington  Square  was 
built  on  the  filthy  creek.  So  great  was  the  mor- 
tality in  that  early  day,  that  many  sailors  and 
others  represented  the  name  Calcutta  as  being- 
equivalent  to  Golgotha,  the  "place  of  a  skull.'' 
In  1756,  June  20,  a  terrible  misfortune  befell 
the  rising  town ;  it  was  sacked  and  Fort  William 
was  captured  by  Surajah  Dowlah,  the  Indian 
ruler  of  Bengal.  The  majority  of  the  English 
residents  escaped  to  the  mouth  of  the  Hugli ;  all 
the  Europeans  who  remained  were  compelled, 
after  undergoing  a  two  days'  siege,  to  surrender 
to  the  young  prince,  and  one  hundred  and  forty- 


"•( 


'^ '.: 


CAI.CUTTA 


327 


SIX  of   them  were  driven,  at  the  point  of   the 
sword,  into  the  ^niard-rooni.     This  was  a  cham- 
ber only  from  eighteen  to  twenty  feet  square, 
and  It  had  only  two  small  barred  windows  on 
one  side.    The  sufferings  of  these  wretched  pris- 
oners from  pressure,  heat,  thirst,  and  want  of  air 
It  is  terrible   to  contemplate.     In  the  morniiur 
only  twenty-three  out  of  one  hundred  and  fort)''- 
six  ghastly  creatures  were  found  alive  ;  all  the 
rest  had  been  suffocated  in  this  dungeon,  which 
IS   still    named    in    Fort    William    the    "Black 
Hole."     Mr.  Howell  was  one  of  the  survivors, 
and  he   has  written  a  graphic  account  of  the 
awful  experiences  of  that  terrible  night.  A  mon- 
ument fifty  feet  high  has  been  built  to  commem- 
orate that  dreadful  event,  and  stands  in  front  of 
the  supposed  location  of  the  door. 

The  Mohammedans  changed  the  name  of  the 
town    to    Alimagar.     In   January,   1757,    about 
eight  months  after  its  capture,  the  English  re- 
took Calcutta  under  Admiral  Watson  and  Lord 
Clive.     The  foul  crime  perpetrated  on  English- 
men in  the  "  Black  Hole  "  aroused  Clive's  wrath, 
and  nerved  him  to  make  one  supreme  effort  for 
English  supremacy  in  India,  and  this  effort  re- 
sulted in  the  superb  victory  won  in  the  battle  of 
Plassey.     This  battle  formed  an   epoch   in  the 
stirring  history  of  those  heroic  days.     The  Eng- 
lish found  that  almost  everything  of  value  had 
been  taken  away.     A  large  sum  of  restitution 
money  was  received,  and  was  divided  among  the 
sufferers.     Commerce  rapidly  revived,  and  the 
ruined  city  was  speedily  rebuilt. 


I. 


■\\ 


■  ...  I 

i 


.1  i 


)  1  «■■, 


32H 


AkOlIM)    TIIK    VVOKIJ) 


:!;);) 


Modern  Calctitta  really  dates  from  1757.  The 
citadel  called  Fori  VVilliain  was  rebuilt  by  Lord 
Clive,  !)einpf  completed  in  1773.  It  is  the  larj^est 
fort  in  India,  and  is  said  to  be  larj;e  enonj^h  to 
hold  fiftcLii  thonsand  soldiers.  Its  cost  was  not 
less  than  ten  million  dollars.  The  fort  is  an 
irre<»;nlar  octagon,  live  sides  lookinj;'  landward, 
and  three  to  the  river.  It  is  surronnded  by  a 
fosse  thirty  feet  deep  and  fifty  feet  broad,  and 
this  fosse  can  speedily  be  filled  with  water  from 
the  river.  At  the  time  the  new  fort  was  bnilt, 
the  superb  park  and  driveway  known  as  the 
Maidan  was  formed. 

In  1707  Calcutta  was  declared  a  presidency, — 
up  to  that  time  it  had  been  dependent  on  the 
older  Kno;lish  settlement  at  Madras.  In  1852 
Calcutta  was  erected  into  a  municipality,  the 
people  payinor  assessments  for  cleansing  and 
otherwise  improving  the  town.  It  was  contem- 
plated at  one  time  to  remove  the  city  of  the 
supreme  government  from  Calcutta.  The  town 
was  so  unwholesome,  and  it  was  so  remote  from 
the  center  of  the  country  that  another  location 
was  desired ;  but  modern  engineering  has  made 
the  city  substantially  healthful  and  altogether 
beautiful,  and  railways  have  brought  it  into  close 
touch  with  all  parts  of  India,  and  telegraphs  with 
(ireat  Britain  and  the  whole  world.  It  is  now 
considered  to  be  among  the  most  healthful  cities 
in  the  East,  sanitary  reforms  having  worked  won- 
ders. The  improvements  of  English  civilization 
have  thus  enabled  Calcutta  to  hold  its  place  as  the 
capital  of  India. 


■k 


CALCUTTA 


329 


Tin-;  City  oi<  Talaci-s. — Calcutta,  iK'causc  of 
its  many  fine  bnil(liiio;s,  hassoiiictiincs  been  called 
the  "  City  of  Palaces."  It  certainly  is  a  most 
intcrestinjj^,  and  at  the  same  time  a  very  Indian 
city  ;  and  notwitlistandinj^^  that  it  is  the  home  of 
many  ICiiropeans,  it  still  holds  its  distinctive 
Indian  character.  As  seen  from  the  river  its 
stronj^  array  of  fine  bnildinos  makes  it  very  at- 
tractive ;  but  the  tourist  has  no  sooner  entered 
the  dirty  streets,  some  of  which  still  remain, 
than  he  becomes  aware  of  the  filth  of  its  native 
l)()pulation.  Naturally  the  Ciovernment  House 
attracts  immediate  attention.  It  is  a  specimen 
of  remarkal)ly  fine  architecture,  and  it  stands  in 
a  garden  of  six  acres.  The  design  is  copied 
from  that  of  Kedlestone  Hall,  Derbyshire.  It  is 
built  around  an  open  s(|uare,  and  is  so  constructed 
that  it  becomes  a  citadel  when  necessity  arises. 
It  is  under  a  semi-military  organization,  and 
always  ready  to  anticipate  a  popular  uprising. 
Its  dining  room,  throne  room,  and  council  room 
are  worthy  of  careful  examination  and  descrip- 
tion. Famous  pictures  adorn  the  walls  of  these 
rooms.  In  the  council  room  are  the  pictures  of 
Warren  Hastings,  ]\Iarquis  Wellesley,  Lord  Clive, 
and  others  whose  names  form  an  inseparable 
part  of  tlie  history  of  Britain  in  India. 

The  town  hall  stands  west  of  the  Government 
House,  and  is  a  noticeably  fine  building.  The 
High  Courf  and  the  Secretariat  are  noble  build- 
ings ;  the  latter  stands  on  the  north  side  of 
Dalhousie  Square.  The  Indian  Alusenm,  the 
Calcutta  University,   the  post  ofificc,  Dalhousie 


I, 


■J .. 


1  < 


< '    I! 

.^1 


a 


/' 


I 


;  ^   : 


'^  n 


i' 


I  ( 


I 


I    ■(■! 


;   ■  i 


i»  I    SI; 


330 


AKOrND   TIM-:    WOKIJ) 


Institute,  and  St.  Paul's  Cathedral  arc  all  biiild- 
iii<;s  worthy  of  careful  cxauiination.  The  Ko- 
uiauists  have  a  church  in  honor  of  St.  Thomas. 
There  is  also  a  Scotch  kirk,  St.  Andrew's,  a 
(ireek  church,  and  an  Armenian  church;  the 
Hrahnia  vSomaj,  the  reformed  theistic  sect  of  the 
Hindus,  has  a  place  of  meeting.  This  sect  has 
very  little  hold  upon  the  ruling  population,  but 
it  has  earnest  followers  from  amon^  the  Hindus 
of  educatit)n  and  j^^ood  social  position.  It  was 
founded  in  1830;  but  in  1858  Keshub  Chunder 
vSen  joined  the  Soma]  and  gave  it  considerable 
popularity. 

The  Botanical  Gardens,  on  the  west  side  of  the 
river,  are  worthy  of  a  visit.  These  gardens  in- 
clude an  area  of  two  hundred  and  .seventy-two 
acres  with  a  river  frontage  of  a  mile.  They  are 
marked  by  excellent  taste,  and  as  a  whole  are 
worthy  of  great  praise.  Here  is  found  an  enor- 
mous banyan  tree,  said  to  be  one  of  the  largest 
of  its  species  in  the  world.  It  has  often  been 
represented  in  school-books,  and  is  so  old  that  its 
age  is  incalculable.  Practically  this  species  of 
trees  lives  for.  ■  er,  as  it  continually  multiplies 
itself.  To  the  right  of  the  entrance  is  the  remark- 
able avenue  of  Palmyra  palm  trees  ;  and  there  is 
also  in  the  immediate  vicinity  an  avenue  of 
mahogany  trees.  There  are  here  also  specimens 
of  the  sacred  bo  tree,  and  a  camphor  tree  of  great 
size.  There  is  a  large  conservatory  devoted  to 
the  cultivation  of  ferns,  and  one  will  travel  far 
before  he  will  see  so  many  varieties  of  ferns  and 
so  superbly  trained  as  are  here  found. 


^:r' 


w 


its 
of 


IS 

of 
?ns 
?at 

to 
"ar 


CALCUTTA 


331 


All  visitors  arc  intcrLStcd  in  scciii};  the  palace 
of  the  kiiii>-  of  Oiule,  who  has  recently  died. 
He  lon^  hacl  the  reputation  of  havin<^  ''  wheels 
in  his  head."  The  government  allowed  him 
half  a  million  dollars,  on  which  sum  he  was 
able  to  live  in  the  enjoyment  of  all  the  luxuries 
which  his  stran^^e  taste  demanded.  He  was 
kint;  of  Oude  at  the  time  the  Ivnglish  (govern- 
ment dethroned  him,  and  he  remained  a  rebel  at 
heart  until  the  time  of  his  death.  The  Sepoy 
rebellion  had  his  earnest  sympathy.  lie  was 
practically  a  prisoner  in  his  palace  at  "  (harden 
Reach,"  as  the  place  was  called.  Here  he  in- 
dulged in  a  strangle  taste  for  animals,  hrwinji; 
around  him  great  numbers  of  tigers,  a  rem  rka- 
ble  collection  of  snakes,  and  pigeons  of  every 
variety  and  almost  without  number. 

At  the  proper  season  of  the  year,  every  even- 
ing, the  c'h'ii'oi  Calcutta  turns  out  for  a  drive  on 
the  IMaidan.  Here  may  be  seen  equipages  as 
varied  and  elegant  as  can  be  seen  at  the  Pincio, 
at  Rome,  the  Prado,  of  Madrid,  the  Champs  Ely- 
sees,  in  Paris,  Hyde  Park,  in  London,  or  Central 
Park,  New  York.  Mr.  Ballon,  in  his  "  Due  West," 
affirms  that  the  Maidan  of  this  Indian  capital  in 
point  of  gayety,  variety,  and  attractiveness,  sur- 
passes all  similar  drives  in  any  part  of  the  world. 
Here  ladies  in  brilliant  dresses,  nabobs  in  gold 
lace,  attended  by  their  barefooted  runners,  Par- 
sees,  Hindus,  English,  Egyptians,  French,  and 
Italians,  can  be  seen  in  all  the  most  attract- 
ive characteristics  of  their  various  nationalities. 
After  the  light  of  the  brief  twilight  hour  has 


I 


I       ! 


I      I 


w 


; 


11. 


■'.' 


Ml; 


L^ 


'   1 


Wi 


i  II''. 


W        '      I'M'.*'' 


332 


AROUND   THE   WORIvD 


oone  out,  the  Maidan  is  illuminated  instantly 
by  hundreds  of  electric  lij^hts  which  are  flashed 
upon  the  gay  scene.  While  the  equipages  dash 
around  the  long  course  the  air  is  filled  with 
music  and  with  the  odors  of  OrieJual  flowers  and 
slirubs  of  many  varieties.  It  is  indeed  a  stirring 
scene  and  one  which  equally  delights  and  sur- 
prises the  tourist  as  he  observes  the  characteris- 
tics of  this  far-off  Indian  capital. 

The  portion  of  the  Maidan  lying  1)etween  the 
fort  and  the  main  part  of  the  city  is  known  as 
the  Esplanade.  There  are  noticeable  mosques, 
Hindu  temples,  pagodas,  and  bazaars.  Two  of 
the  most  famous  monuments  are  those  erected  to 
the  jNIarquis  of  Wellesley  and  Sir  David  Ochter- 
lony.  There  is  much  poverty  and  filth  in  the 
native  sections  of  Calcutta.  The  streets  there 
are  narrow  and  unpaved,  and  the  houses,  for  the 
most  part,  are  built  of  niud,  or  bamboo  and  mats  ; 
but  even  in  these  quarters  many  improvements 
have  been  lately  introduced,  including  wider 
streets,  improved  drainage,  and  brick  houses. 
The  portion  chiefly  inhabited  by  Europeans  is 
called  Chowringee.  The  houses  in  this  quarter 
are  built  chiefly  with  brick  and  covered  with 
stucco.  The  majority  of  the  houses  are  detached 
from  one  another  and  are  suvrounded  by  spacious 
verandas.  The  dwellings  of  foreign  merchants 
are  east  of  the  Maidnn,  and  many  of  them  are 
palatial.  The  British  merchants  form  a  large 
and  wealthy  class.  A  considerable  number  of 
Amei'icans  are  found  in  Calcutta,  engaged  in 
commerce  with  various  paits  of  the  East.     The 


'I   I 


CALCUTTA 


333 


of 
in 

he 


Eurasians  form  a  serviceable  class,  bein<T;^  em- 
ployed, to  a  great  e^  cent,  in  jrovernnient  and 
mercantile  honses.  The  inhabitants  have  lonj^^ 
been  mostly  Hindus;  but  in  1891  the  jMoham- 
medans  were  nearly  half  as  nnmerons.  In  that 
year  the  Christians  numbered  only  about  thirty 
thousand.  The  brokers,  called  sificars  and  hahns^ 
are  almost  exclusively  Hindus  ;  but  the  foreign 
trade  of  the  city  is  in  the  hands  of  British  mer- 
chants. Calcutta  is  the  great  commercial  center 
of  Asia,  one-third  of  the  whole  trade  of  India 
being  done  here.  The  annual  fall  of  rain  is 
sixty-four  inches  ;  in  July  the  temperature  in  the 
shade  ranges  from  78"  to  87°,  and  in  December 
from  60°  to  80°. 

A  number  of  newspapers  and  magazines  are 
published,  both  in  English  and  in  native  tongues. 
The  Sikhs  have  a  place  of  worship,  as  have  also 
the  Chinese.  There  is  a  Mohammedan,  a  Hindu, 
and  a  Sanskrit  college,  as  well  as  an  Anglo- 
Indian  college.  There  are  al.so  colleges  supported 
bv  the  Anglican  Church,  the  Free  Church  of 
Scotland,  and  by  the  Jesuits,  and  the  medical 
college  is  one  known  for  its  high  standing  in 
medical  science.  Since  1865  a  supply  of  good 
water  ^s  been  introduced.  Many  miles  of  street 
cars  are  now  in  use. 

Mo  one  can  visit  Calcutta  without  being  deeply 
and  sadly  inif>fessed  by  the  scenes  enacted  at  the 
"Burning  (ihat"  Here  the  ceremony  of  cre- 
mating the  dea^j  goes  on  both  day  and  night. 
Corpses  are  placed  upon  the  piles  of  cord-wood, 
raised  to  the  heij^ht  of  four  feet.     Then  the  wood 


n 


\  V, 


i 
k 

)  • 


.1'  i^ 


« Ml' 


u 


'  I 


i 


i 


;ii 


i»f 


'  ill 


<V'. 


'  :'''-V; 


'      ,1' 


^  u\y 


*13 


'1  *  V       ' 


334 


AROUND    THE   WORLD 


is  ignited,  and  in  a  few  moments  the  flames  sur- 
round and  soc.i  devour  the  body.  Sometimes 
the  atmosphere  is  impreo^nated  with  the  odor  to 
such  a  degree  as  to  be  unwholesome  and  in 
every  way  undesirable.  In  three  hours  the  bodies 
are  consumed,  and  the  ashes  solemnly  cast  into 
the  sacred  river,  for  the  Hugli,  being  one  of  the 
outlets  of  the  Ganges,  is  considered  sacred  as  well 
as  the  parent  river.  It  is  the  custom  for  the 
oldest  son  of  the  father  or  mother  to  apply  the 
torch.  Afterward  at  Benares  I  saw  similar  sights. 
Human  life  is  but  little  esteemed  in  heathen 
lands.  It  is  deemed  a  high  honor  and  a  sure 
passport  to  some  sort  of  heaven  to  be  drowned 
in  the  sacred  waters  of  the  Ganges,  or  in  any  of 
its  outlets.  Along  the  banks  of  the  river  here 
and  at  Benares  were  many  dying  Hindus  brought 
to  breathe  their  last  beside  the  sacred  water.  One 
longed  to  tell  these  men  and  women  of  Him  who 
died  that  they  might  live  a  higher  life  here  and 
a  blessed  life  hereafter. 

Serampore. — This  name  is  very  precious  to 
all  Christians,  and  especially  to  all  Baptists. 
Serampore  is  situated  on  the  right  bank  of  the 
Hugli,  about  thirteen  miles  north  of  Calcutta. 
Few  towns  in  India  are  marked  by  so  much  of 
neatness  and  by  so  many  tokens  of  prosperity. 
The  streets  are  clean,  and  while  there  is  not 
much  trade,  an  air  of  comfort  characterizes  the 
town.  Its  chief  claim  upon  our  notice  is  that  it 
was  tbie  scene  of  the  apostolic  labors  of  Carey, 
Marshman,   and    Ward.      Even    Hindu   writers 


'  1'  I 


CALCUTTA 


335 


\'Hi 


admit  that  the  zeal  and  consecration  of  these 
missionaries  form  one  of  the  noblest  episodes  in 
the  history  of  evangelistic  labor  in  India. 

lu  1845  a  treaty  was  made  with  the  king  of 
Denmark  by  which  all  the  Danish  possessions  in 
India  were  transferred  to  the  East  India  Com- 
pany. The  Danish  government  from  the  first 
was  in  hearty  sympathy  with  missionaries,  and 
had  itself  sent  ont  missionaries  to  convert  the 
natives.  Ziegenbalg,  Schwarz,  Schulz,  and  others 
1l  d  represented  Danish  and  German  missionary 
societies  in  the  sonth.  We  shall  ever  give  honor 
to  Colonel  Bie,  the  representative  of  the  Danish 
sovereign  at  Serampore,  because  of  the  protection 
which  he  granted  to  Carey  and  his  missionary 
brethren.  When  the  powerful  governors  of  Brit- 
ish India  had  nothing  for  them  but  opposition,  the 
representative  of  the  Danish  king  extended  them 
cordial  hospitality.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that 
God  preserved  Serampore  under  the  rule  of  Den- 
mark that  it  might  be  a  place  of  refuge  for  these 
Baptist  missionaries  until  the  so-called  Christians 
of  Great  Britain  should  abolish  their  heathen 
laws — more  heathen  than  those  of  the  heathen 
til  nnselves — and  permit  Christian  missionaries 
to  enter  India.  The  governor  of  Serampore  in- 
formed the  I'/'gof  Denmark  nf  the  high  charac- 
ter, broad  scholarship,  and  varied  worth  of  these 
missionaries,  and  the  king  soon  became  their 
firm  friend.  In  1S21,  Frederick  VI.,  king  of 
Denmark,  sent  the  missionaries  a  gold  medal, 
and  he  endowed  tlie  college  which  they  had 
fuunded ;  and  wlien  in  i'^^^  as  we  have  already 


I'  <1 


'I'' 


'•( 


-•( 


:4 


;'i 


1^  * 


I'  'i 


ri 


i'f 


33^ 


AROUND  tup;  world 


seen,  he  ceded  Serampore  to  the  British  govern- 
ment, he  inserted  an  article  in  the  treaty  con- 
firming the  rights  granted  by  the  Danish  charter 
to  the  Serampore  Baptist  College. 

The  Christian  world  will  never  cease  to  thank 
God  for  Carey  and  his  associates.  Neither  will 
it  cease  to  thank  God  for  the  Danish  king  and 
the  governors  of  Serampore.  Adoniram  Jndson 
and  other  American  missionaries,  who  were  not 
allowed  by  the  British  anthorities  to  land  at 
Calcntta,  were  for  a  time  received  by  the  mis- 
sionaries at  Serampore.  In  this  place  tlie  mission- 
aries set  np  printing  presses  and  sent  ont  not 
fewer  than  thirty  translations  of  the  Scriptures. 
Carey  obtained  a  mastery  over  the  languages  of 
the  country  such  as  no  other  European  had  ac- 
quired. He  became  the  most  learned  man  in 
all  the  languages  of  the  land.  He  was  found  by 
Lord  Wellesley,  who  founded  the  college  of  Fort 
William,  in  Calcutta,  in  1801,  to  be  abler  than 
any  olhcr  man  to  teach  the  various  languages  of 
the  country  t'-  Ivnglishmcn  in  the  service  of  the 
East  Indian  Company,  and  he  received  the  ap- 
pointment of  professor  in  that  college.  He  was 
the  author  of  grammars  and  dictionaries  in  many 
of  the  languages  and  dialects  of  India,  as  well  as 
one  of  the  translators  of  the  Scriptures  into  those 
tongues. 

In  December,  1S29,  ^^^  rejoiced  in  the  enact- 
ment of  the  law  by  the  council  in  India  abolish- 
ing the  practice  of  burning  widows  on  the  funeral 
pil(  n{  tluirdead  husbands.  It  is  estimated  that 
every  day  at  least  two  widows  were  sacrificed  in 


CALCUTTA 


ZZl 


this  way.  The  news  of  the  passag^e  of  the  law 
reached  Carey  on  Sunday  niornino;-  as  he  was 
about  to  enter  the  pulpit.  Instead  of  preaching 
his  sermon  that  morning  he  began  and  com- 
pleted before  night  the  translation  of  the  act. 
He  could  not  bear  the  thought  of  a  day's  delay, 
which  might  result  in  the  death  of  at  least  two 
more  widows.  That  act  of  Lord  William  Ben- 
tinck  was  thus  translated  by  the  learned  and 
consecrated  Baptist  missionary  and  sent  forth 
to  the  nations  of  India.  One's  heait  is  thrilled 
to-day  as  he  reads  the  wonderful  events  of  that 
time  and  of  the  relation  to  those  events  of  this 
"  consecrated  cobbler,"  as  Sidney  Smith  called 
the  immortal  Carey. 

Serampore  suggests  a  deep  spiritual  consecra- 
tion as  well  as  a  broad  and  noble  scholarship. 
Carey  and  his  associates  were  doing,  as  Bishop 
Hurst  has  suggested,  in  the  Christian  life,  what 
Clive  and  Hastings  were  achieving  by  military 
and  civil  triumph.  Carey's  selection  of  a  site 
in  Serampore  for  the  place  to  work  for  God  and 
man  in  India  was  quite  as  important  as  Clive's 
victory  at  Plassey,  and  England  and  the  world 
owe  as  great  a  debt  to  her  consecrated  mission- 
aries as  to  her  bravest  soldiers.  Carey  was  not 
permitted  to  work  in  Calcutta,  for  the  East  India 
Company  made  money  out  of  the  false  faiths  of 
the  Hindus.     Thank  God,  the  Danish  flag  floated 


over  Serampore! 

Carey  was  a  poor  cobbler,  Ward  was  a  carpen- 
ter, and  Marshman  was  a  weaver's  son.  They 
are  now  an  immortal  trio.     The  college  stands 

w 


t    t 


\  ^\ 


k    J 


i   t 


r<i 


!, 


■■■'*«*iS3«*?«»-->" 


H 


is- 


h  i 


|!  m 


33« 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


on  the  bank  of  the  river  and  the  library  is  still 
undisturbed.  Bishop  Hurst  has  well  said,  "  Each 
penstroke  of  Carey,  Marsh  man,  and  Ward  was  a 
thunderbolt  against  the  pagan  wall  of  Hindu- 
ism." vSouvenirs  of  these  noble  men  may  here 
be  seen.  Portraits  in  oil  of  each  member  of  the 
missionary  trio  hang  upon  the  walls.  The  bo- 
tanical collections  which  Carey  made  are  still 
seen.  In  this  library  are  collections  of  rare 
Hindu  and  Pali  manuscripts  which  the  mission- 
aries made.  In  the  old  Danish  church  are 
tablets  in  masonry  of  the  great  missionaries.  It 
is  a  small  building,  seating  only  about  one  hun- 
dred people,  but  it  is  a  spot  dear  to  every  lover 
of  God  and  man.  Lord  Wellington  was  one  of 
the  contributors  to  the  erection  of  the  building. 
The  missionaries  are  buried  in  another  part  of 
the  town,  but  their  tablets  are  in  the  little 
church.  I  copied  Carey's  epitaph,  written  by 
himself : 

William  Carey, 

Born  17th  of  August,  1761, 

Died  9th  of  June,  1834. 

A  wretched,  poor,  and  helpless  worm, 
On  Thy  kind  hands  I  fall. 

One's  heart  throbs  with  emotions  of  apprecia- 
tion, gratitude,  and  enthusiasm  as  he  reads  these 
words.  The  world  will  never  know  how  much 
it  owes  to  this  noble  man.  For  thirty  years  he 
occupied  the  professor's  chair  in  Fort  William 
College,  but  all  his  earnings  were  employed  in 
advancing  the  cause  of  missions  in  India.     The 


CALCUTTA 


339 


tomb  of  Carey  is  conspicuous  for  its  massive 
luonuinent  as  well  as  for  its  tender  and  heroic 
memories.  Of  the  three  great  men,  Marshman 
was  the  last  to  fall  at  his  post;  but  before  Carey 
closed  his  heroic  career  he  had  the  joy  of  know- 
ingr  t'.at  the  gospel  was  preached  in  forty  lan- 
guages or  dialects  of  India. 


..1 


f, 


M 


XXVIII 


BENARES,  THE   HOLY  CITY 


(•iiiO'S 


m 


I 


*  I'^i 


I) 


Inii  , 


IT  was  a  matter  of  sincere  regret  to  the  writer 
tliat  he  could  not  visit  Burma  and  the  great 
Baptist  mission  among  the  Tehigus  in  southern 
India.  He  cherislies  the  hope  that  before  many 
years  shall  pass  he  will  visit  both  those  parts  of 
the  country.  In  making  his  way  back  to  Bom- 
bay, some  of  the  towns  now  to  be  named  were 
visited,  while  some  others  were  visited  on  the 
journey  from  Bombay  to  Calcutta.  The  geo- 
graphical order  is  not  closely  followed  in  the 
account,  but  a  glance  at  any  good  map  of  India 
will  enable  the  reader  easily  to  follow  the  order 
in  which  the  towns  are  given. 

Poverty  Amid  Plenty. — The  ride  from  Cal- 
cutta to  Benares  is  deeply  interesting  ;  it  is  also 
peculiarly  saddening.  The  people  living  on  the 
route  are  wretchedly  poor,  judged  by  all  the 
standards  recognized  among  Europeans  ;  but  it 
is  frankly  admitted  that  poverty  in  India  is  to 
be  judged  by  different  standards  from  those  em- 
ployed in  Great  Britain  and  the  United  States. 
Still,  whatever  the  standard  may  be,  the  extreme 
poverty  of  the  people  must  be  recognized.  The 
population  is  immensely  large  at  every  point. 
340 


ci' 


BENARKvS,  THE    1IOI.Y   CITY 


341 


It  rano^cs  from  two  Innulred  to  six  hundred  peo- 
ple to  the  square  uiile.  All  the  people  are  poorly 
clad,  if  they  can  be  spoken  of  as  clad  at  all.  In 
the  majority  of  instances  the  only  clothing  is  a 
cotton  cloth  around  the  loins.  Really,  one  won- 
ders how  it  is  possible  for  the  people  to  exist. 

We  know  that  there  have  been  great  famines 
in  India,  but  since  the  construction  of  railways 
and  canals,  the  famines  of  earlier  days  are  not 
likely  often  to  occur  nor  to  be  of  so  great  severity 
as  in  the  earlier  days.  The  famines  of  recent 
times  are  not  because  of,  but  in  spite  of,  liritish 
rule  and  a  comparatively  Christian  civilization. 
It  is  said  that  the  average  annual  income  of  each 
inhabitant  in  India  is  only  seven  dollars  and 
fifty  cents.  Five  cents  a  day  is  considered  rea- 
sonably good  wages  for  the  ordinary  working 
man. 

There  are  historical  and  economical  reasons 
for  the  extreme  poverty  of  the  millions  in  India. 
Previous  to  the  occupation  of  the  country  by 
Great  Britain  the  history  of  the  country  was  one 
long  warfare,  and  but  for  the  authority  of  Britain 
the  country  to-day  would  be  in  unceasing  tribal 
strife.  The  country  would  doubtless  be  in  a 
state  of  continual  anarchy.  In  the  early  days 
men  of  power  amassed  great  wealth  at  the  ex- 
pense of  the  common  people.  Nana  Sahib's 
wealth  is  spoken  of  as  measured  by  cartloads. 
Great  stores  of  treasure  have  been  found  beneath 
the  ground  in  the  palace  at  Gwalior.  The 
Mahrattas  were  the  highway  robbers  of  later 
Indian   history,  and  their  treasure  was  almost 


i 


« 

'    '  Ml 


■i  'i. 


i  I 


1,1' 

t 


it  c)  J 


a-r, 


342 


AROUND    TIIK   WORI.D 


beyond  belief.  War  and  robbery  have  impov- 
erished tlie  kmd.  (ireat  wealtli  also  in  the 
palmy  days  of  heathenism  was  bestowed  on  the 
temples.  Ecclesiastical  and  military  chiefs  g^rew 
rich,  while  the  rank  and  file  of  the  people  starved. 
Great  tombs,  like  the  glorious  Taj  Mahal,  were 
built,  and  hundreds  and  thousands  of  persons 
died  of  starvation  in  order  to  erect  these  tombs. 
But  a  better  day  is  coming  for  India. 

Much  of  her  soil  is  still  uncultivated,  and  it 
is  very  rich.  The  government  is  tising  all  its 
influence  to  induce  the  people  to  adopt  better 
means  of  cultivating  the  soil.  It  is  found  very 
hard  to  induce  them  to  lay  aside  the  methods  of 
their  fathers,  however  superior  the  new  methods 
are  to  the  old.  The  enormous  interest  charged 
for  money  help  to  keep  the  people  poor.  Many 
poor  men,  in  marrying  their  daughters,  will 
mortgage  their  lives  for  their  entire  future,  and 
the  rates  of  interest  are  so  great  that  many  debt- 
ors never  expect  to  do  more  than  pay  the  inter- 
est. But  the  representatives  of  Great  Britain 
are  striving  in  many  ways  to  bring  in  a  better 
day  for  this  vast  empire. 

The  people  whom  we  saw  on  this  journey 
live  for  the  most  part  in  primitive  mud  cabins 
thatched  with  straw.  Outside  of  certain  districts 
in  Ireland  it  would  be  difficult  to  find  any  other 
place  where  such  poverty  and  squalor  can  be 
found.  The  country  through  which  we  were 
passing,  however,  is  famous  as  an  agricultural 
region.  One  would  expect  to  find  thrifty  farm 
houses  and  prosperous  villages,  as  one  sees  rice, 


','  i 


■(   !i 


r ,  I 


IJKNARKS,  TJIK   HOIA'   CITY 


343 


wheat,  su^ai-canc,  and  vast  poppy  ftelds  as  he 
journeys  tlironj^h  tliis  district.  I^Vuit  trees  of 
many  kinds  abound.  Anionj^  thcni  are  lofty 
tamarinds,  ahnonds,  mangoes,  oranges,  and  the 
j^^raci  ful  pahn.  liirds  of  paradise  were  seen,  with 
their  beautilul  feathers  glistening  in  the  sun, 
and  tall  flamingoes,  in  their  bridal  plumage, 
with  scarlet  epaulets  on  each  wing  ;  parrots  and 
doves  were  seen,  and  the  clear  notes  of  the  Indian 
thrush  fell  sweetly  on  the  ear.  Now  and  again 
temples,  centuries  old  and  in  utter  ruin,  came 
into  view. 

During  this  ride  we  found  but  little  evidence 
of  the  British  possession  except  the  telegraph 
wires  and  the  railway  lines,  but  evidences  of 
native  populations  and  of  heathen  religions  are 
numerous.  The  third-class  cars  were  packed 
with  pilgrims  on  their  way  to  the  sacred  city  of 
Benares.  They  were  herded  like  cattle  in  these 
cars.  The  charge  is  only  about  one  cent  per 
mile,  and  no  other  class  of  passengers  pays  so 
well.  For  a  long  time  the  pilgrims  would  not 
ride  in  the  cars,  for  the\'  regarded  the  engine  as 
some  sort  of  fire-devil,  which  the  engineer  bribed 
by  frequent  drinks  of  water  to  draw  the  train. 
But  now  they  ride,  although  they  still,  in  many- 
cases,  retain  their  superstition  regarding  the 
engine. 

Benares. — Finally,  after  passing  Mogul  Serai, 
near  the  junction  of  the  two  sacred  rivers,  the 
Ganges  and  the  Jumna,  the  ancient  city  of  Be- 
nares is  reached,  on  the  left  side  of  the  Ganges. 


u 


i'  ; 


I 


;H 


t  ' 


L  ' 


J, 


.•■   <i  '• 


344 


AROUND   TIIK    WORLD 


n 


!  ,  ) 
t 

I,  lit  ( 


ii-i«, 
'i''' 

',,:i' 


•"I'M 


1/ 


It  is  about  four  liinidrccl  and  twenty-five  miles 
northwest  from  Calcutta  and  four  hundred  and 
seventy  miles  southeast  of  Delhi.  In  population 
it  is  tlie  fifth  city  of  India,  liombay,  Calcutta, 
Madras,  and  Luck  now  alone  being  larp^er.  For 
more  than  three  thousand  years  Benares  has 
been  the  reli^^ious  capital  of  India.  Indeed, 
tradition  makes  Benares  coeval  with  creation. 
The  population  is  about  two  hundred  and  twenty- 
five  thousand.  The  Hindus  call  it  Kasi,  "  the 
magnificent."  Benares  means  "  the  best  water." 
The  present  city  is  a  modern  city  ;  perhaps  none 
of  the  buildings  are  older  than  the  sixteenth 
century.  Its  foundations  probably  were  laid 
when  the  Aryans  held  full  sway  and  before  any 
of  the  present  faiths  were  known.  From  this 
center  the  great  leaders  of  Hinduism  have  gone 
out  to  their  supporters  in  all  parts  of  the  world. 
Benares  is  the  most  sacred  of  all  the  sacred 
places  of  Hinduism.  It  is  the  citadel  of  Hindu- 
ism. What  Jerusalem  was  to  the  pious  Hebrew, 
Mecca  to  the  devout  Mohammedan,  and  Rome 
to  the  intense  Romanist,  that  and  more  Benares 
is  to  the  fanatical  Hindu.  Benares  is  a  division, 
a  district,  and  a  city.  Certainly  the  city  is  one 
of  the  most  ancient  cities  on  the  globe.  When 
Babylon  was  struggling  with  Nineveh  for  su- 
premacy, when  Tyre  was  planting  her  colonies, 
when  Athens  was  in  her  vigorous  youth,  when 
Rome  was  unknown,  and  long  before  Greece  con- 
tended with  Persia,  long  before  Cyrus  was  born 
or  Nebuchadnezzar  had  captured  Jerusalem,  Be- 
nares had  risen  to  greatness  and  glory,     It  has 


1 1 


B**!   . 


'  -t  ;* 


I!   '• 


BI'.NARI'S,  THK    iroi.V   CITY 


345 


been  said  tliat  Benares  may  have  heard  of  Solo- 
mon's grandeur,  and  may  even  have  sent  her 
gold  to  decorate  his  throne  and  her  ivory  to 
beantify  his  palaces. 

The  Anglo-Indian  thinks  yon  have  really  seen 
bnt  little  of  India  if  )on  have  not  rowed  on  the 
(ianges  at  Benares  and  walked  throngh  its  nar- 
row streets.  The  Changes  is  here  aljont  half  a 
mile  wide,  and  it  makes  a  sweep  of  fonr  miles, 
the  city  being  sitnated  on  the  ontside  of  the 
cnrve.  The  city  is  three  miles  long  and  one 
mile  wide,  and  it  rises  from  the  river  in  the  form 
of  an  amphitheatre.  The  bank  is  lined  with 
stone  buildings,  some  of  which  are  six  stories 
high.  Ghats,  or  stone  steps,  lead  down  to  the 
sacred  waters.  These  steps  are  covered  with 
bathers  and  worshipers.  The  streets  are  often 
so  narrow  that  carriages  cannot  pass  throngh 
them,  and  in  some  cases  it  is  difificnlt  for  one  on 
horseback  to  find  his  way  through  those  crowded 
lanes.  Some  of  the  houses  are  painted  a  deep 
red,  and  others  are  of  other  bright  colors,  making 
the  city  as  seen  from  the  river  most  striking  and 
picturesque. 

In  order  to  see  the  city,  its  crowded  ghats,  and 
its  numerous  bathers,  it  is  necessary  to  take  a 
boat  and  be  rowed  up  the  stream  near  the  shore. 
The  view  from  the  river  is  grand  and  saddening. 
Before  the  eye  of  the  tourist  rise  three  hundred 
mosques,  with  their  glittering  minarets,  and  not 
fewer  than  a  thousand  pagodas  and  other  forms 
of  heathen  temples.  In  Benares  is  the  Hindu 
Sanskrit  College,  the  chief  seat  of  native  learning 


I 


-1 


I    I- 


346 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


•4 


'/■     !•  I. '.fill  I 


v^:  • 


'li,  i-V 


iri 


1 1 


ill  India.  The  F^nglish  department  was  added  a 
few  years  ago,  and  its  liberalizing  influence  is 
felt  in  many  ways.  Education  in  history,  in 
science,  in  literature,  in  art,  eventually  will 
break  the  bondage  of  caste.  Queen's  College  is 
also  located  in  Benares,  and  its  professors,  for 
the  most  part,  are  from  England.  Almost  un- 
consciously, its  influence  is  undermining  the 
citadel  of  heathenism.  After  a  Hindu  domina- 
tion of  more  than  two  thousand  years  the  people 
fell  \inder  the  Mussulman  yoke,  and  great  efforts 
were  made  to  substitute  Mohammedanism  for 
Hinduism  ;  but  Christian  education  will  in  the 
end  accomplish  far  more  than  the  fire  and  sword 
cf  the  cruel  Moslem,  whose  Satanic  spirit  has 
been  recently  revealed  so  terribly  against  the 
suffering  Chrislian  Armenians. 

Passing  through  the  streets  one  saw  troops  of 
pilgrims,  footsore  and  weary,  some  of  whom  had 
come  from  places  one  thousand  niiles  away  to 
bow  before  the  idols  in  the  holy  city  and  to 
bathe  their  weary  bodies  in  the  waters  of  the 
sacred  river.  Some  of  these  pilgrims  were  not 
beggars,  but  gaudily  robed  rajahs,  with  long  lines 
of  attendants.  Here  is  an  infirm  old  man  as- 
sisted to  the  water's  edge  ;  here  a  crazy  woman 
screaming  as  they  carry  or  drag  her  to  the 
shore ;  here  comely  youths  of  both  sexes  and 
of  all  ages ;  here  insane-looking  fakirs  going  for 
moral  purification  to  ^hese  muddy  waters.  Pil- 
grims are  here  from  tlie  extreme  north  and  ex- 
treme south  of  India  as  well  as  from  central 
India.     They  cannot  speak  a  common  language, 


BtXARES,  THK    HOLY   CITY 


347 


bnt  all  are  moved  by  a  coiniiion  purpose.  Pil- 
j^riins  from  Tibet  arc!  Caslimere,  from  Himala- 
yan countries,  and  from  Tuticorin,on  the  Indian 
Ocean.  INIany  of  the  pijorims  who  are  bathinj;- 
in  the  sacred  river  are  in  a  condition  of  l)liss5ul 
ecstasy.  They  look  out  with  ([uiet  rapture  on 
the  sky  ;  they  are  lost  in  meditation.  The  dream 
of  years  is  fulfdled.  Some  of  them,  standing  in 
the  water,  have  their  Vedas  before  them,  wliose 
leaves  they  .slowly  turn.  They  are  already  in  a 
Hindu  heaven. 

Brahmans  abound  ;  priests  are  everywhere ; 
mendicants  also  are  numerous;  so  are  devotees 
with  distorted  legs  and  arms.  Here  is  one  who 
has  so  long  closed  his  fingers  into  the  palm  of 
his  hands  that  the  nails  have  grown  through  the 
hand.  Pilgrims  sometimes  are  crushed  to  death 
by  the  crowds.  This  is  heathenism  at  its  own 
capital ;  this  terrible  need  is  God's  loud  call 
upon  all  Christians  to  give  these  wretched  peo- 
ple the  gospel  of  Jesus  Christ.  Here  is  the 
Durga,  or  as  it  is  usually  called,  "The  IMonkey 
Temple."  It  is  devoted  entirely  to  some  sort  of 
worship  of  monkeys,  and  here  hundreds  of  them 
find  a  luxurious  home.  Jiulls,  snakes,  pigeons, 
and  monkeys  are  objects  of  a  kind  of  religious 
devotion.  Here  is  the  well  of  knowledge  ;  at  it 
Siva  is  supposed  to  reside.  The  stench  of  this 
well,  caused  partly  by  flowers  thrown  into  it  and 
allowed  to  decompose  there,  is  intolerable.  All 
pilgrims  are  expected  to  have  at  least  one  good 
drink  from  this  foul  well.  Sacred  bulls  obstruct 
the  narrow  streets  and  render  them  too  filthy  for 


^: 


\  < 


,; 


1'^  i]  i 


348 


AROUND    THE    WORLD 


,1 


/ 1'!*! 


,1  W:;l 


!'[• 


foot  passage.  Beggars,  dogs,  and  filth  crowd 
every  spot.  This  city  is  the  very  hot-bed  of  pes- 
tilence. The  sun  can  scarcely  penetrate  into 
these  dark  streets,  and  never  into  the  under- 
ground dungeons. 

Delicate  invalids  are  brought  on  litters  to 
bathe  in  the  sacred  river.  Here  is  a  man  dying, 
whose  great  desire  is  to  breathe  his  last  on  the 
banks  or  in  the  waters  of  this  holy  stream  ;  then 
his  passage  to  heaven  is  certain  and  speedy. 
Under  that  sheet  is  the  cold  clay  of  one  dead, 
soon  to  be  placed  on  the  funeral  pyre.  Yon- 
der the  flames  are  already  consuming  the  dead. 
Tanks  of  water  are  covered  with  green  scum, 
tanks  in  which  hundreds  of  pilgrims  have  bathed, 
and  whose  waters  are  now  carried  away  to  be 
drunk  in  the  homes  as  water  peculiarly  sacred. 
It  is  not  surprising  that  cholera  abounds.  The 
government  has  adopted  strict  rules  to  compel 
the  natives  to  observe  sanitary  laws,  but  it  is  im- 
possible fully  to  enforce  these  rules.  The  peo- 
ple are  wretched ;  the  idolatry  of  the  place  is 
abominable  ;  the  city  is  organized  impurity. 

The  district  of  Benares  is  barely  beyond  the 
tropics  and  but  little  elevated  above  the  sea  ;  the 
range  of  the  thermometer  is  great  therefore,  be- 
ing between  45°  in  January  and  111°  in  May; 
the  mean  temperature  is  77°.  Benares  is  famous 
for  the  manufacture  of  silks  and  shawls,  for  cloth 
embroidered  with  silver  and  gold,  for  jewelry, 
brass  work,  and  lacquered  toys.  Many  of  its 
products  are  exported  to  England.  It  is  the 
emporium    for    diamonds    and    other   precious 


M 


BENARES,  THE    HOLY   CITY 


349 


stones.  There  is  also  a  larp-p  -ade  in  sugar,  salt- 
petre, indigo,  and  gold  filigree  work.  In  the 
bazaars  we  find  the  genuine  products  of  skilled 
artisans.  In  the  dark  alleys  and  dirty  lanes  an 
article  of  silver  gilt  embroidery  of  unequaled 
excellence  is  manufactured.  In  this  strange, 
vile,  abominable,  and  idolatrous  Indian  Mecca 
there  are  many  homes  M'hich  are  supported  in  a 
degree  of  comfort  by  several  legitimate  forms  of 
industry. 


-m 


its 


A  Strategic  Point. — Benares,  like  Colombo, 
occupies  a  central  position,  and  is  a  strategic 
point  in  mission  work.  It  is  therefore  vastly 
important  as  a  field  of  earnest  missionary  effort. 
A  blow  struck  for  Christ  in  Benares  is  a  blow  at 
the  very  heart  of  heatlieuism.  The  conversicm 
of  Benares  to  Christianity  would  produce  a  pro- 
found effect  upon  all  India ;  it  would  be  like  the 
conversion  of  Rome  from  heathenism  in  theearlv 
days  of  Christianity,  or  the  Rome  of  to-day  from 
Catholicism  to  Protestantism.  Guatama,  when 
starting  out  to  convert  India  to  Buddhism,  fixed 
his  residence  at  Saruath,  the  site  of  the  ancient 
Benares,  and  but  three  or  four  miles  from  the 
present  city.  It  remained  the  headquarters  of 
Buddhism  for  eight  hundred  years;  but  finally 
Brahmanism  overwhelmed  its  vijjorous  vouu<i- 
rival,  and  largely  drove  it  out  of  the  country. 
Hinduism  has  also  been  more  than  a  match  for 
Mohammedanism,  but  Christianity  will  eventu- 
ally win  the  victory  over  its  ancient  and  stubborn 
foe.  . 


350 


AROUND   T1:K    WORM) 


i  <i. 


M 


1  ■■l..i*: 


L 


"  4 


f  /. 

:!': 


Tlie  lui<;li.sli  BajHists  bejj^uii  missionary  work 
in  P)enares  as  early  as  iSi6.  Rev.  William  vSmitli 
was  the  founder  of  this  work,  and  here  he  la- 
bored earnestly  and  with  considerable  success 
for  forty  years.  This  work  was  bep;-un  at  Hen- 
ares  as  an  outpost  of  the  successful  labors  of 
Carey  and  his  associates  in  Serampore.  With 
j^reat  wisdom  the  Baptist  missionaries  founded 
in  Benares  an  orphanaoe  for  native  children. 
The  Church  of  Kngland  beg^an  its  labors  in 
1817  ;  but  its  work  was  at  first  largely  educa- 
tional. An  educated  class  has  sprung  up  and  is 
making  itself  felt  in  the  city,  the  district,  and  in 
many  parts  of  India. 

I  here  met  a  babu,  who  was  entirely  familiar 
with  English  history  and  literature,  and  with 
the  politics  both  of  (ireat  Britain  and  the  United 
States.  He  spoke  of  political  matters  in  New 
York  and  Chicago  with  as  much  familiarity  as  if 
he  were  a  resident  of  either  of  these  cities.  He 
gave  the  writer  a  very  bad  quarter  of  an  hour 
when  he  said:  "  If  Tammany  Hall  is  the  ripe 
fruit  of  republicani .(.!  I  prefer  imperialism; 
and  if  it  be  the  result  of  Christianity,  I  prefer 
heathenism,"  He  was  entirely  familiar  with  Mr. 
Stead's  book,  "  If  Christ  Came  to  Chicago."  I 
reminded  him  that  the  volume  was  but  the  pre- 
sentation of  one  side  of  the  case,  and  that  if 
Christ  came  to  Chicago  he  would  see  some  of 
the  greatest  hospitals,  and  other  humanitarian 
institutions,  and  one  of  the  greatest  universities 
of  which  the  New  World  can  boast ;  and  that 
Tammany  Hall  was  simply  an  excrescence  on 


m 


in<:NAKv;.s,  ynv.  noi\  <:\t\- 


351 


tile  bod)-  Jioiitic,  aiul  was  ()|[)|)oscd  alike  by  many 
«^(K)(l  citizens  and  true  Christians,  that  it  was  not 
the  rcsnlt  of  American  civilization  and  IJible 
Christianity,  but  was  ])ractically  a  remnant  of 
heathenism  existing  in  spite  of  the  helpful  in- 
fluences of  Christian  civilization. 

Nowhere  does  idolatory  seem  to  be  more  ut- 
terly vile  tlian  in  Benares.  This  town,  as  we 
have  seen,  is  the  sacred  city  of  Hinduism.  Noth- 
ing can  surpass  the  vileness  of  the  streets  and 
the  varied  abominations  therein.  It  is  almost 
impossible  to  walk  through  these  narrow  lanes, 
because  of  the  filth  and  the  odors  which  abound. 
Sacred  bulls,  vile  monkeys,  many-headed  deities, 
and  gross  fctichism  are  found  on  every  hand. 
One  cannot  but  hope  and  pray  that  they  will 
pass  away  in  the  light  of  education,  and  in  the 
presence  of  Christianity.  In  the  eyes  of  all  edu- 
cated men,  idolatry  here  appears  in  its  native 
vulgarity.  Its  idols  and  symbols  are  repulsive 
and  loathsome.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say  that 
idolatry  is  organized  impurity.  Looking  at 
these  pilgrims  in  their  filth  and  yet  profound 
sincerity,  one  deeply  pities  them  and  longs  to 
give  them  the  gospel  in  its  uplifting  power  and  its 
spiritual  purity.  There  are  temples  in  India  on 
whose  walls  are  engravings  in  stone  whose  vul- 
garity does  not  admit  of  description.  Hinduism 
appeared  with  some  degree  of  cleanliness  and 
decency  at  the  parliament  of  religions  at  Chicago. 
It  wore,  to  come  degree,  Christian  garments  on 
that  occasion  ;  but  it  may  be  seen  at  Benares  in 
all  its  natural  deformity  and  vulgar  reality. 


> . 


'■■- '  1 


t 

1 

»  ■ 

1 

) 

f 

y' 

<i , 

'    / 

,r* 

jJll 


■i  'iff: 


r 

1 


ffl 


11  !/ 

,  'I 

I 

■  t 

,  1 
i( 


f« " 


352 


AROUND   TIIK    u  ORLD 


It  cannot  but  be  that  at  Benares  there  are  many 
who,  though  they  have  not  yet  confessed  Chris- 
tianity, are  dissatisfied  with  lieathenisni.  Chris- 
tian missionaries  are  still  workin^^  underj^round 
in  that  cit>',  but  great  results  may  soon  be  ex- 
pected. There  are  now  only  about  five  hundred 
professed  Christians  in  the  Baptist,  IVIethodist, 
and  Church  of  England  churches ;  but  there 
must  be  many  thousands  who  are  almost  ready 
to  declare  their  Christian  faith. 

Never  will  the  writer  forget  the  horrid  sights^ 
sounds,  and  odors  of  this  credulous,  zealous,  fa- 
natical, and  idolatrous  city.  The  sights  of  the 
hideous  fakirs,  in  their  revolting  deformity  and 
diseased  condition,  with  their  distorted  limbs, 
their  matted  hair,  and  their  wretched  faces, 
haunted  him  for  weeks.  He  longed  to  be  able 
to  tell  them  of  a  purer  faith  and  a  better  hope. 
One  has  only  to  pass  from  the  heathen  into  the 
Christian  quarter  of  the  city  to  have  an  unan- 
swerable argument  in  favor  of  Christianity.  It  is 
said  that  the  crime  of  infanticide  is  very  com- 
mon in  Benares.  Here  jackals  are  the  night 
scavengers,  and  their  hideous  wail  often  jars 
upon  the  ear  in  the  night  season.  They  are  a 
recognized  institution,  and  no  doubt  the  city 
would  be  even  more  unhealthful  than  it  is  were 
it  not  for  the  voracious  appetites  of  these  crea- 
tures, living  on  decaj'ed  food,  offal,  and  every 
form  of  refuse.  The  people  are  slaves  to  ig- 
norance, to  idolatry,  and  to  every  form  of  im- 
purity. God  help  Christian  Britain  and  Amer- 
ica to  help  idolatrous  Benares  ! 


•, 


'  I 


BENAREvS,  THE    HOLY   CITY 


353 


Comforts  ok  Travel. — It  is  simple  truth  to 
say  that  travelinj^  in  India  is  l)y  no  means  uncom- 
fortable. The  railway  trains  j^o  with  commenda- 
ble rapidity,  and  their  accommodations  are  suffi- 
ciently good  for  any  reasonable  tourist.  The 
coaches  are  not  sleeping  coaches,  as  we  under- 
stand the  term  in  America.  The  seats  are  ar- 
ranged lengthwise  with  the  cars.  The  company 
does  not  promise  an  entire  seat  to  each  passen- 
ger, and  sometimes  it  is  not  possible  to  fur- 
nish each  passenger  with  one ;  but  the  aim  is 
so  to  do.  A  first-class  coach  will  then  be  able 
to  accommodate  four  passengers,  each  being  able 
to  stretch  himself  out  full  length,  there  being 
two  seats  below  and  two  that  can  be  let  down 
from  the  top  of  the  coach.  The  seats  in  the 
first-class  coaches  are  upholstered  with  leather, 
those  in  the  second-class  with  canvas.  The 
second-class  coaches  have  two  seats  in  the  center 
of  the  car.  This  fact  is  the  chief  drawback  to 
these  cars.  In  other  respects  they  are  almost  as 
desirable  as  those  of  the  first-class.  All  of  them 
are  provided  with  water  and  all  necessary  con- 
veniences, and  some  of  them  are  furnished  with 
bathing  facilities.  The  prices  for  all  classes  are 
very  low,  much  lower  than  in  America. 

The  companies  experience  no  small  difficulty 
in  striving  to  adjust  their  compartments  to  the 
caste  prejudices  of  many  of  their  patrons.  It  is 
believed  that  the  railways  will  do  much  to  break 
up  the  caste  system ;  efforts  are  now  making  on 
the  part  of  Brajimaus  and  some  others  to  com- 
pel the  railway  companies  to  furnish  compart- 

X 


'\4 


1 1 


fl 


u.  > 


a 


k  i 


}  !■: 


:M  "/ 


\': 


r  ■ 


354 


AROl'NI)    TlIIv    VVOKI.n 


iiKMits  accordiiii^  to  the  caste  prcjtuHces  of  tlic 
])coplc,  bill  il  is  not  likely  thai  this  (Iciiiaiid  will 
be  «;^ratilic(l. 

The  Mohaiiiinedan  women  also  become  ex- 
tremely troublesome  when  the  railway  trains  arc 
crowded.  ( )ften  one  who  has  a  second-class 
ticket  must  be  oi\-cn  a  first-class  compartment, 
as  she  will  not  ride  in  any  compartment  where 
there  are  men.  The  result  is  that  when  the 
number  of  passeno;crs  is  <(reat  the  difiiculty  of 
Iirope.ly  adjustin^^  all  these  prejudices  is  a  most 
perjiJexino;-  matter. 

Tlie  hotels  in  India  arc  by  no  means  so  poor 
us  has  often  been  stated ;  in  the  lar<;e  cities  some 
of  the  hotels  are  reasonably  ^ood.  This  remark 
will  apply  without  qualification  to  Bond^ay,  and 
it  is  believed  that  soon  Calcutta  will  have  j^ood 
hotels.  Travelers  have  lono-  been  insistent  in 
the  demand  for  first-class  hotels  in  that  ^reat 
city.  The  (ircat  Kastern  has  been  severely 
criticised  by  all  travelers  for  well-nioh  a  genera- 
tion, but  it  has  seemed  to  be  indifferent  to  the 
severest  criticisms  which  have  been  made  against 
its  management.  Steps  were  taken  a  few  years 
ago  to  improve  this  badly  managed  hotel.  It 
was  urged  upon  business  men  in  Calcutta  that  a 
good  hotel  is  a  prime  necessity  to  any  city,  for 
tourists  visiting  Calcutta  have  often  greatly  ab- 
breviated their  stay  in  that  city  simply  for  the 
want  of  a  first-class  hotel.  A  new  house  has 
been  recently  opened,  but  it  is  doubtful  whether 
it  will  supply  the  need  so  long  felt.  The  Wat- 
son House,  or  the  Ivsplanade,  mh  it  is  more  prop- 


BKNARi:S,  TII1«:    IIOI.Y   CITY 


355 


at  a 
for 
ab- 
tlie 
lias 
her 

|\^at- 
rop- 


crly  called,  in  Hoiiibay,  is  really  an  attractive 
hotel. 

Prices  in  hotels  also  arc  low  thronj^hont  India 
as  compared  with  prices  in  America.  Hotels  in 
Bombay  of  a  corresponding^  ^rade  to  hotels  in 
America  are  not  more  than  one-half  to  three- 
quarters  the  ])rice.  The  service  is  continuous 
and  willino;,  if  not  always  intellij^ent.  The 
"  hall  boy  "  crouches  at  the  door  of  your  room 
and  is  ready  to  relieve  you  of  the  necessity  of 
puttinji;^  your  key  into  the  keyhole.  Most  An- 
olo-Indian  families  travel  with  a  retinue  of  ser- 
vants, and  an  Anglo-Indian  gentleman  is  almost 
always  accompanied  by  at  least  one  servant. 
This  servant  makes  his  bed  in  the  railway 
coach,  having  a  trunk  full  of  bedding  for  that 
purpose.  He  waits  on  his  master  in  the  hotel, 
and  supplements  in  many  ways  the  service  ren- 
dered by  the  regular  hotel  waiters.  Most  of 
the  house-servants  are  barefooted,  and  they  slip 
about  quietly  and  quickly  on  the  tiled  floors. 
Their  dress  is,  for  the  most  part,  white,  with 
here  and  there  a  dash  of  color.  The  servants 
are  clean  and  their  dress  is  quite  becoming. 

English  of  some  sort  is  spoken  at  all  the  hotels 
in  cities,  and  even  at  hotels  in  villages  on  beaten 
routes  of  travel.  It  is  spoken  also  by  the  con- 
(hictors  of  the  railway  trains,  who  usually  are 
Eurasians.  This  is  a  large  and  important  class 
in  India  and  in  most  Oriental  countries.  Many 
perplexing  questions  arise  regarding  the  status 
of  the  Eurasian  people.  Many  phases  of  the 
general  subject  reflect  no  credit  upon  Europeans ; 


i  > 


<\ 


'mi 


n     I 


:i  < 


W'    !  i>h 


U   ll^ 


'I 


1 


'i 


356 


AROUND    THE    WORLD 


but  tlic  Eurasians  are  a  most  useful  class  as  in- 
terpreters in  business  houses,  in  government 
offices,  and  in  the  railway  and  other  forms  of 
public  service. 

The  station  masters  are  <^^enerally  Europeans. 
At  A^ra  the  station  master  was  a  gentleman  who 
had  lived  for  some  years  in  America,  having 
had  a  home  in  New  York,  Chicago,  and  St. 
Paul.  He  was  quite  familiar  with  American 
affairs,  and  seemed  greatly  interested  in  meeting 
a  tourist  who  could  answer  his  questions  and 
give  other  information  regarding  the  American 
Republic. 

The  punka^  or  fan,  is  an  important  feature  of 
comfort  in  the  Orient.  It  is  found  in  the  dining 
saloons  of  all  the  great  steamers,  in  the  dining 
rooms  of  all  the  leading  hotels  as  well  as  in 
the  bedrooms,  and  in  the  waiting  rooms  of  rail- 
way stations.  It  is  worked  by  hand,  often  one  or 
two  men  or  boys  being  employed  to  work  it.  It 
is  found  in  banks  and  in  business  offices  of  every 
kind.  So  soon  as  the  meal  begins  the  fan  moves, 
and  it  continues  until  the  tables  are  deserted.  It 
is  really  an  institution  of  the  Orient.  For  about 
six  cents  one  can  hire  a  man  who  will  fan  him 
all  night.  It  is  remarkable  that  a  similar  inven- 
tion has  not  been  more  generally  used  in  our 
own  country  during  the  heated  term.  Plans 
have  been  devised  for  running  these  fans  by 
machinery,  but  it  is  foun-i  extremely  difficult  to 
give  them  by  machinery  the  peculiar  jerk  which 
they  need  and  which  the  hand  readily  supplies. 

This  writer  violated  all  the  traditions  regard- 


*  i- 


:l 


or 


HHiNAKl'S,  Till-:    IIOI.V    CITV 


357 


injT  the  proper  season  of  the  year  for  visitinj; 
Oriental  countries,  and  he  is  prepared  to  say  that 
any  country  may  be  visited  at  any  season  with 
comparative  safety,  simply  by  the  exercise  of  a 
reasonable  amount  o  common  sense.  Some 
would  say  that  the  exercise  of  common  sense 
would  prevent  a  man  from  jj^oin^  Id  ihese  coun- 
tries in  mid-bummer,  Int  with  some  tourists  the 
choice  is  between  goii  j^  at  that  season  or  not 
j4oin^  at  any  season.  It  was  fairl\  cool  in  India 
during  Au,i;ust  and  a  part  of  September,  and  he 
would  be  a  rash  man  who  would  afRrm  that  it  is 
always  cool  in  New  York,  Chica<2:o,  and  other 
American  cities  during  the  same  season.  After 
an  experience  of  eioht  consecutive  ni<^hts  spent 
on  railway  trains  in  India,  and  parti >•  at  stations 
while  waitin^^  for  tra'us,  it  may  be  affirmed  that 
travclino;-  in  Lidia  is  but  little  more  difficult  than 
traveling  in  America. 

When  one  can  buy  rupees  for  about  one-half 
their  nominal  value,  traveling  is  remarkably 
cheap;  but  the  depreciation  in  Indian  silver  is 
very  trying  for  Anglo-Indians  who  receive  their 
salaries  in  this  depreciated  currency.  Their  ex- 
perience is  doubtless  wdiat  ours  would  be  in 
America  if  silver  instead  of  gold  became  the 
standard.  Any  man  who  has  reasonable  powers 
of  adaptation,  and  who  will  preserve  a  good  tam- 
per, will  find  himself  able  to  travel  without  in- 
convenience and  with  great  pleasure  and  profit 
in  India,  and  in  all  the  countries  of  the  Orient 
in  which  the  progress  characteristic  of  the  clos- 
ing years  of  the  century  has  secured  a  foothold. 


.*." 


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Sciences 
Corporation 


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XXIX 


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T 


GANGES  CITIES 

HE  journey  was  made  to  Cawnpore 
halts  at  Allahabad  and  Jubbulpore. 


with 


Allahabad,  "  City  of  God,"  is  known  as  the 
capital  of  the  northwest  provinces.  It  has  a 
population  of  one  hundred  and  seventy-seven 
thousand.  During  the  months  between  Novem- 
ber and  March  warm  clothing  is  often  required 
at  Allahabad.  It  is  situated  on  the  Jumna  River, 
which  shares  with  the  Ganges  the  honor  of  be- 
ing one  of  the  holy  rivers  of  India ;  and  so  Al- 
lahabad is  peculiarly  a  holy  city.  It  occupies 
the  fork  between  these  two  rivers  and  there- 
fore is  in  the  region  known  ns  the  Doab,  or  the 
country  of  the  Two  Rivers,  a  term  analogous  to 
the  Punjab,  or  country  of  Five  Rivers.  It  is  a 
comparatively  new  city,  although  there  was  a 
city  here  three  centuries  ago,  founded  by  Akbar, 
the  greatest  of  the  Moguls.  There  were,  how- 
ever, other  cities  here  long  before  that  date. 

As  the  Ganges  and  the  Jumna  here  form  a 
junction,  the  Jumna  loses  its  name  and  identity 
after  the  union,  and  the  Ganges  flows  on  in  great 
power,  and  in  impressive  volume.  A  bath  at  the 
point  where  the  two  rivers  unite  has  peculiar 
358 


GANGKS  CITIES 


359 


entity 
great 
at  the 
:uliar 


sanctity.  It  is  easy  to  see  that  Allahabad,  be- 
cause of  its  comniandino;  location,  its  healthful 
atmosphere,  and  its  facilities  for  defense,  must 
early  have  attracted  a  population.  Bishop  Hurst 
reminds  us  that  it  came  to  notice  in  the  third 
century  before  the  Christian  era,  when  Megas- 
thenes,  the  Cxreek  tourist,  visited  it.  The  Chi- 
nese pilgrim,  Hiouen  Tsang,  also  visited  this 
place,  and  mentions  it  in  the  report  of  his  travels. 
Next  to  Benares  this  city  must  have  been  sacred 
to  the  Brahman  mind.  Indeed,  it  was  claimed 
that  Brahma  here  made  sacrifice  of  a  horse  as  a 
thank-offering  for  the  recovery  of  certain  Vedas. 
So  many  poor  pilgrims  visit  the  city  at  the  time 
of  the  great  lieathen  festivals  that  it  has  been 
suggested  by  some  natives  that  it  be  called  Fak- 
irabad,  rather  than  Allahabad.  It  is  estimated 
that  at  the  Magh  Mela,  or  annual  fair,  not  fewer 
than  five  hundred  thousand  devout  Hindus  make 
pilgrimages  to  this  place. 

The  town  was  first  conquered  by  the  Moslems 
in  1194  A.  D.  Akbar  strove  to  invest  the  city 
with  Mohammedan  peculiarities;  but  the  people 
have  remained  to  a  great  degree  Hindus,  not- 
withstanding All;  habad  was  taken  in  1736  by 
the  Mahrattas,  who  held  it  until  1750,  when  in 
November,  1801,  it  was  ceded  to  the  British 
crown.  From  1834  to  1855  it  was  the  city  of 
the  government  of  the  northwest  provinces,  and 
after  the  nnitiny  was  suppressed  it  again  became 
the  city  of  the  provincial  government. 

The  Roman  Catholic  cathedral,  in  the  Italian 
style,  is  a  noticeable   building.     Muir  College, 


36o 


AKC^UNl)   TIIK    WORM) 


All  Saints'  Cluirch,  Trinity  Church,  and  the 
Thomas  Hill  and  Maine  Memorial,  are  all  worthy 
of  careful  examination.  The  fort  was  built  by 
Akbar,  in  1575.  There  is  ..  broad  moat,  which 
can  be  filled  with  watr  r  at  short  notice.  Asoka's 
rillar  is  a  hi<.jlily  polished  stone  monument  close 
to  the  palace.  It  is  oi  great  antiquity.  The 
famous  "edicts  of  Asoka  "  are  inscribed  on  this 
l)illar.  These  edicts  arc  supposed  to  date  from 
240  H.  c.  There  are  also  other  inscriptions  al- 
nu)st  as  old  as  the  Christian  era.  Some  of  these 
inscriptions  show  that  they  were  placed  upon  the 
pillar  when  it  was  upon  the  j^round.  In  1838  it 
was  restored  by  tlie  British  to  its  former  position, 
(ireat  interest  attaches  to  the  Akshai  liar^  or 
undecayiu^  banyan  tree.  This  tree  is  found  in  a 
dark  chamber ;  it  is  simply  a  trunk  of  a  banyan 
tree  witliout  roots  or  branches,  and  yet,  strange 
as  it  may  seem,  it  throws  out  leaves.  This  re- 
sult is  due  to  the  moisture  which  is  found  in  this 
dark  chamber,  and  so  lon^  as  the  lo^  possesses 
sap  there  will  be  leaves.  The  Hindus  take  ad- 
vautatre  of  this  phenomenon.  They  have  made 
this  chamber  a  holy  place,  and  thousands  who 
come  to  the  Mela  brinor  ^vith  them  their  votive 
offerinors.  This  tree,  it  is  supposed,  has  existed 
for  thousands  and  thousands  of  years.  It  was, 
and  to  .',ome  decree  still  is,  an  object  of  worship. 
It  is  now  situated  partly  ander  j^round  at  one 
side  of  a  pillared  court.  This  tree  and  court 
seem  to  be  the  same  as  those  described  by  Hi- 
oucn  Tsan<i^,  to  whom  reference  has  already  been 
made.      However,  it  is  said  that  when  all  the 


(lANCiKS   CITIKS 


s(>i 


moisture  disappears  from  the  tree  and  it  has  no 
more  leaves,  it  is  secretly  removed,  and  another 
stump  is  put  in  its  place. 

The  Mela,  the  religious  fair  of  which  mention 
has  been  made,  is  of  jrreai;  antiquity.  It  occurs 
every  year  about  the  month  of  January  ;  perhaps 
Allahabad  owes  its  orioin  to  the  sacrcdness  of 
the  junction  of  the  two  rivers,  and  to  th2  large 
number  of  people  drawn  there  annually.  In 
Allahabad  one  of  the  most  important  newspapers 
in  India  is  published,  "The  Pioneer." 

In  this  city  the  tourist  conies  into  contact  with 
reminders  of  the  great  mutiny  of  1857-58.     The 
arsenal  and  fort;  at  this  place  were  garrisoned  by 
a  single   Sepoy   regiment.     Sir   James   Outrani 
was  warned  that  danger  was  near,  but  no  effect- 
ive steps  were  taken  to  secure  safety.    The  story 
of  the  outbreak  at  Allahabad  is  one  of  the  sad- 
dest in  the  awful  misfortunes  in  the  mutiny  of 
1857.      Benares  did  not  suffer  materially  during 
that  mutiny,  but  Cawnpore,  Lucknow,  and  Dellu 
were  deluged  with  blood.     It  was  an  awfiJ  crisis 
in  the  history  of  British  dominion  in  India  when 
this   mutiny   broke   out  in  Allahabad.     Fortu- 
nately, tlie  Sikhs  in  the  fort  did  not  fraternize 
with  the  Sepoys.     The  Sikhs  under  Brasyer  were 
drawn  up  at  the  main  gate,  together  with  some 
English    volunteers.       For    a    time    confusion 
reigned  supreme,  but  the  Sikhs  were  ready  to 
do  superb  service.     They  had  themselves  been 
conquered   by  British  soldiers  fighting  for  Brit- 
ain ;  would  they  now  join  the  Sepoys  and  the 
Oudh  cavalry  ?     This  was  the  question  asked  by 


,.| 


ii 


•4,} 


r 


>-' 


S     H'l 


'  il 


•*     ^   <■ 


:.,!/ 


362 


AROUND   TIIK    WOKIJ) 


.1   '  I  / 


anxious  hearts.  Tlie  Sikhs  loved  their  oiTicer  ; 
lie  gave  them  his  coinmaiid,  and  these  stalwart 
Sikhs  immediately  obeyed.  The  Sepoys  were 
commanded  to  give  np  their  guns  ;  for  a  moment 
they  wavered.  But  the  Sikhs  leveled  their 
muskets.  The  Sepoys  were  overawed.  They 
hesitated,  lost  their  opportunity,  and  surrendered 
their  guns.  They  were  expelled  from  the  fort 
and  Allahabad  was  saved- 

Anarchy,  however,  reigned  in  the  city.  The 
jail  was  broken  open  and  the  prisoners  were  re- 
leased, every  one  of  whom  engaged  in  murdering 
the  Christians.  The  treasury  was  also  sacked 
and  many  Sepoys  carried  off  thousands  of  rupees 
as  their  part  of  the  booty.  Soon  General  Neill 
arrived  at  the  fort,  opened  fire  on  the  neighbor- 
ing villages,  and  finally  produced  such  alarm 
that  many  of  the  sympathizers  fled  to  Cawnpore. 
The  triumph  of  English  arms,  largely  through 
the  loyalty  of  the  Sikhs  ,it  Allahabad,  is  one  of 
the  bright  chapters  in  the  terrible  history  of  the 
Sepoy  mutiny. 

JURBULPORK. — The  weather  was  intensely  hot 
as  the  hours  passed  while  I  waited  for  another 
train  at  Jubbulpore,  which  is  about  two  hundred 
miles  southwest  of  Allahabad.  Jubbulpore  is  an 
important  civil  and  military  station,  and  the 
meeting  place  of  two  of  the  great  Indian  rail- 
w^ays,  and  consequently  one  of  the  most  impor- 
tant railway  stations  in  India.  The  great  objects 
of  interest  here  are  the  marble  rocks,  remarkable 
geological  formations,  which  are  about  eleven 


(lANOKS   CITIKS 


3^'i 


hot 
)thcr 
idred 

sail 
the 

rail- 

ipor- 
[jects 

:able 
leven 


miles  from  the  heart  of  the  town.  The  town  is 
nearly  one  thousand  five  hundred  feet  above  the 
sea ;  in  its  vicinity  are  many  lakes  and  tanks 
which  in  the  rainy  season  are  so  swollen  as  to 
make  the  place  inaccessible  and  j^^rcatly  to 
strenpi'then  its  stratej^ica!  ])osition.  A  small  I^nv^- 
lish  force  here  defeated,  Decembe'-  19,  1817,  no 
fewer  than  five  thousand  jNIahratta  forces  of  the 
rajah  of  Nagpore. 

This  place  was  once  famous  as  the  home  of 
the  Thugs.  This  word  remains  in  our  lanojuage 
although  the  Thugs  themselves  have  been  sup- 
pressed in  India.  They  were  a  fraternity  whose 
employment  was  to  murder  by  strangulation. 
Their  occupation  was  hereditary,  and  they  made 
their  living  in  this  way.  It  was,  indeed,  a  sort 
of  religion.  Captain  Sleeman  was  chiefly  suc- 
cessful in  hunting  down  these  criminals.  Jub- 
bulpore  was  the  chief  center  of  their  operations, 
and  it  was  in  this  town  that  the  families  of  the 
Thugs  were  confined  after  their  capture.  An  en- 
closed village  was  formed,  and  within  its  walls 
these  captives  were  kept  as  prisoners,  and  a 
"school  of  industry"  was  established  on  their 
behalf  in  1835.  At  the  first  no  fewer  than  two 
thousand  five  hundred  of  these  people  were  con- 
fined in  this  village.  Now,  however,  very  few 
remain. 

Dacoity,  or  gang  robbery,  was  another  form 
of  crime  which  required  all  the  force  of  the  go\'- 
ernment  to  suppress.  This  also  is  now  largely 
disappearing.  The  crime  of  infanticide  has 
greatly  decreased,  but  suspicious  statistical  facts 


3^4 


AROUND    THK    WOKI.n 


show  that  it  still  continues  to  a  considerable 
dej^ree.  In  some  towns  the  proportion  of  boys 
is  very  much  j^reatcr  than  that  of  girls,  and  there 
is  no  reason  to  suppose  that  the  proportion  of 
boys  in  India  should  differ  from  that  in  other 
countries. 


[n   !■ 


Cawnpore  Memorials. —  Cawnpore,  spelt 
also  ''  Khanpur,"  is  situated  on  the  ri<,dit  bank  of 
the  Ganges,  at  the  junction  of  four  railways,  and 
about  one  hundred  and  forty  miles  from  Alla- 
habad, over  six  hundred  from  Calcutta,  ov'er  nii.*^ 
hundred  from  Bombay,  and  two  hundred  and 
seventy  miles  from  Delhi.  In  1801  it  became 
British  property.  The  Ganges  Canal  empties 
into  the  Ganges  River  near  Cawnpore.  It  re- 
ceives its  water  at  Hurdwclr,  four  hundred  miles 
above.  This  work  has  been  of  great  service  o 
the  entire  district.  It  has  a  water-course  of 
eight  hundred  miles,  and  with  its  bridges  and 
docks  cost  the  sum  of  ten  million  dollars.  Since 
1888  Cawnpore  has  been  in  direct  communica- 
tion with  Bombay,  through  the  opening  of  the 
railway  to  Jhansi.  There  are  here  convenient 
waiting  rooms,  and  fairly  good  carriages  can  be 
secured  at  a  very  low  price.  The  old  city  is 
about  two  miles  northwest  of  the  present  city. 

This  is  the  most  important  commercial  center 
in  the  northwestern  province.  The  city  has  a 
population,  including  tlie  cantonment,  of  about 
one  hundred  and  eight^'-eight  thousand.  The 
name  means,  city  of  Kanh,  or  Krishna,  Kanh 
husband."     Cawnpore  has  large  can- 


meaning 


u 


lUI 


GANt;i;S   CITIKS 


365 


toiinicnts  and  is  an  important  inilitaiy  statit)ii. 
It  is  really  a  considerable  eniporiuni  for  harness, 
shoes,  and  various  kinds  of  kallier  work.  Some 
of  its  citizens  whom  I  met  called  attention  to  its 
extensive  manufactures,  its  cotton  spinninj^,  and 
weavinj;^,  and  its  fabrics  turned  out  by  the  h'lj^in 
and  the  Muir,  and  spoke  of  it  as  the  Birminj^- 
ham  of  India.  It  was  interestin^r  to  see  the 
smoke  pourin<^  forth  from  its  chimneys,  ^ivin<i; 
one  the  impression  of  vij^orous  enterprises  in  this 
old  town.  Cawnpore  liarness  is  well  known 
throuj^hout  India.  The  government  has  in  Cawn- 
pore an  establishment  of  its  own  for  the  manu- 
facture of  leather,  saddlery,  and  harness. 

The  chief  interest  attached  to  this  town,  how- 
ever, is  because  of  its  connection  with  the  frij^ht- 
ful  massacres  of  the  mutiny.  Cawnpore,  Luck- 
now,  and  Delhi  were  the  g^reat  centers  in  this 
awful  traercdv.  I  drove  at  once  to  the  Memorial 
Church.,  built  in  the  Romanesque  style  and  con- 
secrated in  1S75.  It  is  near  the  site  of  General 
Wheeler's  intrenchment,  and  from  it  a  fine  view 
of  the  town  can  be  had.  The  Massacre  Ghat  is 
about  a  mile  from  this  church.  On  the  bank  is 
a  temple  to  Siva,  but  it  is  old  and  fast  sinking 
to  ruin.  It  was  from  this  point  that  a  boat  was 
to  convey  the  men  and  women  who  had  been 
promised  safety ;  but  no  sooner  had  they  rowed 
out  into  the  stream  than  they  were  fired  upon 
from  the  shore. 

Never  shall  I  forget  the  sad  interest  with  which 
I  visited  the  memorial  well  and  garden.  The 
gardens  are  well  laid  out,  and  extend  for  thirty 


I 


V  ! 
1 1 


•t' 


U 


'  ("'I 


366 


AROUND   THK    WORI.D 


acres.  Over  the  well  a  inoiind  has  been  raised 
which  is  crowned  by  an  octagonal  (iothic  screen. 
In  the  center  of  this  enclosnre  is  the  fignre  of 
the  *' Ant^el  of  the  Resnrrection."  This  fignre 
is  in  white  marble,  and  is  the  work  of  INIarochetti. 
It  is  snpposed  to  be  over  the  actnal  well  which 
contains  the  bodies  of  at  least  two  hundred  vic- 
tims. The  arms  are  crossed  over  the  breast,  and 
each  hand  holds  a  palm  as  the  emblem  of  peace 
and  victory.  These  words  are  over  the  arch : 
"  These  are  they  which  came  ont  of  great  tribu- 
lation," and  around  the  wall  are  inscribed  the 
words  : 


Sacred  to  the  perpetual  Memory  of  a  Rreat  company  of 
Cliristian  people,  chiefly  Women  and  Children,  who  near 
this  spot  were  cruelly  murdered  by  the  followers  of  the  rebel 
Nana  Dandhu  Panth,  of  Bithur,  and  cast,  the  dying  with 
the  dead,  into  the  well  below,  on  the  XVth  day  of  July, 
MDCCCLVII. 


I   i  I 


I  stood  beside  this  mound  and  talked  with  the 
Irish  soldier  who  was  then  on  guard,  while  ail 
the  memories  of  my  reading  in  boyhood  of  this 
fearful  mutiny  came  back  with  freshness  and 
power.  He  informed  me  that  tiow  no  native 
was  permitted  to  come  within  the  walls  of  this 
enclosure  without  a  special  permit.  Until  a  few 
years  ago  natives  were  permitted  to  go,  but  por- 
tions of  the  decorations  of  the  wall  were  found 
broken  after  a  public  festival  when  many  natives 
had  been  admitted,  and  since  that  time  permis- 
sion to  enter  has  been  refused,  except  to  those 
possessing  the  necessary  permit. 


I«i 


r.ANGKS  C  IT  IKS 


Z^l 


;h  the 
le  all 
this 
and 
ative 
this 
.  few 
por- 
lound 
kives 
Innis- 
those 


TiiK  Ski'oy  MrriNY. — It  sccnis  fittin*,^  that  at 
tliis  point  sonic  remarks  slionld  1)0  made  of  the 
mntiny  in  its  relation  to  Cawnpore.  While  the 
mntiny  was  raji^ini^  in  different  parts  of  Hen^al, 
in  i«S57,  »Sir  Ilngh  Wheeler  was  at  Cawnpore 
with  a  military  force  of  three  thonsand  eij^ht 
hundred  men,  only  about  two  hundred  of  whom 
were  Europeans.  He  was  a  gallant  veteran  and 
commanded  the  confidence  of  all  his  associates 
under  arms.  He  doubted  the  fidelitv  of  the 
Sepoys,  and  he  resolved  to  make  a  selected  spot 
at  Cawnpore  a  rallyin<;-  point  for  all  who  were 
under  his  authority.  He  threw  up  an  intiench- 
ment  on  the  chosen  jj^round,  enclosing  two  bar- 
rack hospitals  and  a  few  other  buildings.  He 
did  not  wish  to  show  the  Sepoys  that  he  dis- 
trusted their  loyalty,  but  he  went  on  with  his 
intrenchments,  making  earthwor!..,  about  four 
feet  high.  The  ground  was  exceedingly  difficult 
to  work,  and  the  material  had  but  little  coherence 
when  piled  up  for  walls.  Into  this  intrenchment 
he  withdrew  with  nearly  one  thousand  Europeans, 
two-thirds  of  whom  were  women  and  children 
and  other  non-combatants.  vSir  Henry  Lawrence 
soon  sent  him  reinforcements  under  Lieutenant 
Ashe  and  Captain  Hayes.  After  the  women  and 
children  had  entered  the  miserable  intrenchment 
terrible  scenes  of  confusion  occurred.  There 
was,  doubtless,  much  bad  management. 

On  the  fifth  of  June  the  rising  took  place. 
The  native  regiments  marched  off,  carrying  with 
them  arms  and  ammunition,  and  plundering  as 
they  went  on  their  way.     They  sacked  the  treas- 


!'■» 


36 


AkOl'Nn    TIN-:    WORLD 


'Pi'] 


iiry,  tlicy  o])ene(l  tlic  jail,  tlu  y  httnied  the  pub- 
lic oHiccs,  they  captured  the  iiiaj^azine  with  all 
its  aniiiiuiiition  and  artillery,  and  they  ])laced 
themselves  under  the  leadership  of  the  Rajah 
Hithur,  conunonly  known  as  the  Nana  Sahib. 
He  inunediately  seized  thirty-five  boats  of  shot 
and  shell  which  were  on  the  canal,  and  the  next 
day  he  laid  siej^e  to  the  intrenchnient.  This 
little  body  of  three  hundred  and  fifty  English 
soldiers  thus  besiejjcd  were  exposed  to  the  con- 
tinuous fire  of  three  thousand  soldiers,  trained 
and  armed  under  British  officers  and  familiar 
with  British  warfare,  but  they  fou*^ht  heroically. 
Perhaps  never  in  the  whole  history  of  Great 
Britain  did  Britons  fip^ht  with  greater  heroism. 
Their  whole  space  enclosed  was  only  about  two 
hundred  yards  square.  Soon  provisions  were 
scarce ;  there  was  only  one  well  within  the  in- 
trenchment,  and  in  order  to  reach  that  it  was 
necessary  to  pass  over  exposed  places.  Those 
who  attempted  to  reach  the  well  were  shot  down 
by  Sepoys,  who  were  themselves  protected  from 
a  return  fire.  On  the  thirteenth  of  June  the 
barracks  caught  fire;  and  the  casualties  of  many 
kinds  were  very  great  day  after  day.  Cholera 
and  small-pox  broke  out  within  the  enclosure. 
The  Sepoys  made  an  open  attack  on  the  twenty- 
third  of  June;  on  the  twenty-fifth  they  sent  a 
messaoe  offering  safe  passage  :  "  All  those  who 
are  in  no  way  connected  with  the  acts  of  Lord 
Dalhousie,  and  are  willing  to  lay  down  their 
arms,  shall  receive  a  safe  passage  to  Allahabad." 
This  note  was  in  Nana's  own  liand  ;    it  was  his 


■; 


r. ANGUS   CITIKS 


3^'9 


lib- 
aU 
cc-a 
ijah 
Uib. 

con- 
lined 
liUar 
:aUy. 
:>reat 
oism. 
it  two 
were 
lie  in- 
it  was 
Those 
down 
from 
le  the 
many 
hokra 
osnre. 
.venty- 
ent  a 
e  who 
Lord 
their 
bad." 
as  his 


Satanic  trick.  On  the  twenty-sixth  there  was 
an  armistice  and  a  safe  condnct  to  the  river  side 
and  a  snpply  of  boats  was  ])roniiscd.  On  the 
twenty-seventli  tlie  luiropeans  were  rechiced  to 
half  tlieir  ori«4i!ial  nnmbcr,  and  on  this  promise 
of  a  safe  passaj^e  to  AUaliabad  they  surrttidtrcd. 
How  that  promise  was  kept  we  sliall  sadly  see. 
(ieneral  Wheeler  thonp^ht  this  a  j^ood  ofTer  ;  bnt 
he  was  qnite  too  trnstfnl.  At  nine  o'clock  in 
the  mornnij^  the  whole  company  was  em])arked 
at  the  Sati  Chaura  (ihat  in  twenty-one  boats ; 
then  a  bn«^le  was  sonnded,  the  native  boatmen 
left  tlie  boats  and  immediately  a  mnrderons  fnc 
was  opened  on  the  men,  women,  and  children. 
Soon  parts  of  the  boats  were  bnrnino^.  Many  of 
the  wretched  captives  leaped  into  the  water,  and 
son^ht  to  reach  the  land,  bnt  were  shot  in  the 
stream  or  captnred  .so  soon  as  they  reached  the 
shore.  For  thirty-six  honrs  one  boat  floated 
down  the  stream.  Fonr  ont  of  eleven  soldiers 
who  swam  from  the  boat,  reached  the  shore  and 
they  alone  were  left  to  tell  the  awfnl  story.  The 
boat  which  had  floated  down  the  stream  was 
finally  overtaken.  The  men  were  bhot,  and  the 
women  and  children  sent  to  join  those  whom 
Nana  had  for  reasons  of  his  own  rescned  at  the 
Massacre  Ghat.  Thev  were  then  all  taken  lo 
Nana  Sahib's  headquarters,  where,  confined  in 
two  small  rooms  for  two  weeks,  they  suffered 
fearful  indignities. 

British  Retribution. — Terrible  retribution 
was  near  at  hand.    General  Havelock  was  march- 

V 


m 


370 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


H 


¥  i' 


t     ,; 


ing  from  Allahabad  and  fighting  as  he  marched. 
A  number  of  encounters  between  Havelock  and 
Nana  took  place.  Finally  on  the  sixteenth  of 
July,  Nana  at  the  liead  of  five  thousand  men  en- 
gaged in  fierce  battle,  but  was  finally  defeated. 
Brave  Havelock  learned  as  lie  marched  to  Cawn- 
pore  the  story  of  the  terrible  massacre.  Nana, 
knowing  of  General  Havelock's  advance,  caused 
the  women  and  children  to  be  massacred  the  day 
before  Havelock's  troops  entered  Cawnpore,  and 
their  bodies  to  be  thrown  into  the  well.  To  the 
honor  of  the  Sepoys  be  it  said  that  they  refused 
to  do  such  revolting  work  as  slaughtering  the 
captives,  but  Mohammedan  butchers  did  it.  With 
knives  and  swords  they  killed  the  British  pris- 
oners from  five  in  the  morning  until  half-past 
ten.  Three  of  even  these  hardened  demons  were 
overcome  by  fatigue,  heat,  stench,  and  the  sight 
of  so  much  blood.  It  was  a  sight  to  make  angels 
weep.  Britain  has  paid  a  fearful  price  for  her 
dominion  in  India,  and  this  was  the  crisis  of 
her  power  and  triumph.  On  the  eighteenth  of 
July  Havelock  entered  the  city,  while  Nana  re- 
treated to  Bitliur.  The  citv  was  silent  as  the 
grave  when  Havelock  reached  it,  and  for  four 
days  his  men  toiled  on  burying  the  dead.  In 
November  of  the  same  year  Cawnpore  was  again 
taken  by  the  enemy ;  but  soon  the  Sepoys  were 
routed  with  great  slaughter,  and  so  much  of 
Cawnpore  as  had  not  been  committed  to  the 
flames  was  in  the  possession  of  the  British. 

General  Wheeler  has  been  criticised  for  his  ac- 
ceptance of  Nana's  promise  of  safety  to  those  who 


'!i 


'tf 


GANGES  CITIES 


2>7^ 


Ills  ac- 
wlio 


surrendered.  It  is  easy  for  us  now  to  criticise ; 
but  General  Wlieeler's  task  was  an  extremely 
difficult  one.  He  had  under  his  charge  compara- 
tively few  men,  as  the  large  majority  of  Euro- 
peans were  women  and  cliildren.  He  had  no 
stores  adequate  to  their  requirements  and  there 
was  but  little  ammunition.  There  was  also  lack 
of  medical  necessaries,  and  water  could  be  had 
only  in  small  quantities  and  that  at  terrible  risks. 
His  position  really  was  untenable. 

A  few  general  remarks  will  cover  many  points 
connected  witli  the  mutiny  at  Delhi  and  Luck- 
now,  as  well  as  at  Cawnpore.  The  real  name  of 
Nana  Sahib  was  Sirik  Dandliu  Panth.  He  was 
the  adopted  son  of  Eaji  Rao,  the  last  pesliwa,  or 
king  of  the  Mahrattas.  He  was  educated  as 
a  Hindu  nobleman,  and  was  a  good  English 
scholar.  He  had  been  trained  to  regard  himself 
as  a  prince.  He  was  greatly  incensed  against 
Lord  Dalhousie  because  he  had  destroyed  the 
peshwaship,  after  the  death  of  the  peshwa  in 
1 85 1,  and  by  this  action  had  deprived  Nana  of 
his  pension  and  of  his  royal  salute.  Nana  was 
determined  to  revenge  himself  on  his  lordship. 
The  day  chosen  was  the  one  hundredth  anniver- 
sary of  the  battle  of  Plassey.  Nana  represented 
the  old  regal  power  of  the  j\Iahrattas ;  that  power 
was  now  passing  away,  and  the  British  were  get- 
ting a  firm  grip  on  the  entire  country.  The 
time  seemed  ripe  for  Nana's  revenge.  General 
Wheeler,  as  we  have  seen,  was  practically  help- 
less. He  was  an  old  man,  \\h  provisions  were 
scanty,  and  the  heat  was  intense.     In  the  mes- 


Zl^ 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


I'n'i 


f,  .:( 


I?  ir 


sage  to  which  reference  has  been  made,  a  mes- 
sage written  in  Nana's  own  hand,  safety  was 
promised  only  to  those  who  were  not  connected 
with  acts  of  Lord  Dalhonsie. 

Bishop  Hnrst  calls  attention  to  the  effective 
means  adopted  by  General  Neill  for  impressing 
the  native  mind  with  the  greatness  of  England 
and  the  certainty  of  punishment  to  those  who 
opposed  English  rule.  He  took  the  prisoners 
captured  from  Nana  into  the  prison  where  the 
terrible  massacre  had  taken  place.  He  marked 
off  the  place  into  squares  and  he  then  made  his 
captured  Sepoys  wash  up  the  blood.  Touching 
Christian  blood  was  the  breaking  of  all  Hindu 
caste,  and  to  the  Hindu  mind  it  affirmed  that 
every  Hindu  who  had  been  thus  defiled  would 
receive  eternal  punishment  as  the  result  of  this 
defilement.  General  Neill  also  tied  many  Sepoys 
to  the  muzzle  of  cannons  and  shot  them  into  a 
thousand  fragments.  IVIany  persons  do  not  un- 
derstand the  reasons  for  this  form  of  punishment. 
It  was  not,  as  is  often  supposed,  because  of  any 
spirit  of  cruelty  on  his  part.  The  design  was  to 
produce  the  most  terrible  impression  on  the 
native  mind,  and  nothing  else  that  he  could 
have  done  would  have  created  such  consterna- 
tion. These  natives  believed  that  the  spirit  of 
one  whose  body  did  not  receive  proper  burial 
but  was  mutilated  in  death  would  forover  suffer 
because  of  this  mutilation.  We  can  thus  see 
why  General  Neill  adopted  this  apparently,  but 
not  really,  cruel  method  of  execution. 

Unfortunately,  Nana   escaped.     In    i860   his 


GANGKS   CITIES 


373 


w 


ho 


his 


death  was  announced,  but  two  years  later  new 
acts  of  treachery  indicated  that  he  was  still  alive. 
Several  persons  have  been  arrested  on  the  sus- 
picion of  being  Nana  Sahib,  but  they  were  re- 
leased as  soon  as  the  mistake  was  discovered. 
What  became  of  Nana  is  not  known.  Perhaps 
he  died  by  the  hand  of  some  faithful  follower, 
and  perhaps,  as  some  traditions  say,  he  wandered 
into  the  jungle  after  the  English  captured  Delhi 
and  died  by  his  own  hand.  Part  of  his  army 
was  captured  during  the  following  year,  and 
many  of  his  treasures  were  found  concealed  in 
wells  at  Bithur.  The  water  was  drawn  from 
one  well,  the  bricks  were  taken  out,  and  seven- 
teen cartloads  of  gold  and  silver  treasures  were 
secured  and  taken  under  special  guard  to  Cawn- 
pore,  to  Calcutta,  and  then  to  England.  It  Is 
said  that  this  slow  march  o^  captured  treasure 
inspired  the  natives  with  a  feeling  of  inexpress- 
ible awe  and  a  wonderful  conception  of  the 
power  of  England.  As  the  result  of  this  mutiny, 
England  showed  her  power  in  battle  and  became 
the  possessor  of  the  vast  treasures  of  the  leader 
of  the  mutiny.  This  treasure  had  been  won  by 
the  Mahratta  chiefs  long  years  before,  and  when 
their  power  declined,  the  last  scion  of  the  ancient 
house  kept  the  treasure  with  profound  secrecy. 
One  purpose,  no  doubt,  was  to  use  it  some  time 
as  a  bribe  for  the  lost  power  of  the  Mahratta 
princes,  but  it  went  to  England.  Nowhere  on 
Indian  soil  would  it  be  permitted  to  remain. 
Never  again  would  it  add  splendor  to  a  native 
court.     The  guns  taken  at  the  siege  of  Delhi 


i 

I  I 


m 


374 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


were  lolled  all  the  way  to  Calcutta,  stopping  at 
every  town  to  give  the  people  some  idea  of  Brit- 
ish power  to  crush  a  mutiny  and  to  destroy  its 
leaders. 

I  went  from  place  to  place  of  interest  in 
Cawnpore,  but  nothing  impressed  me  as  did  the 
octagonal  Gothic  structure  over  the  terrible  well. 
The  calmness  of  this  marble  figure,  with  a  palm 
in  each  hand,  is  still  before  my  mind.  When 
all  the  sad  sights  and  sounds  of  Cawnpore  pass 
away  from  my  mind,  that  angel,  telling  of  peace 
in  sorrow,  victory  in  defeat,  and  life  in  death, 
will  still  be  present  as  the  symbol  of  resurrection 
and  immortality. 


0 


"  ;   i  [ 


XXX 


LUCKNOW 


IT  was  a  beautiful  evening  in  September  when 
I  reached  Lucknow.  A  carriage  drawn 
by  two  horses  and  supplied  with  two  men,  one 
as  a  driver  and  one  as  a  guide,  was  readily  se- 
cured. For  this  remarkable  outfit  the  price 
agreed  upon  was  about  twenty  cents  an  hour. 
It  required  some  courage  to  pay  this  bill  without 
adding  somewhat  to  its  required  amount.  The 
guide  had  been  a  servant  in  an  English  family 
and  spoke  English  with  fluency,  and  he  also 
seemed  familiar  with  the  history  of  Eucknow. 

It  is  a  thousand  pities  that  more  Americans 
who  travel  so  frequently  in  Europe  do  not  ex- 
tend their  journey  into  India.  It  is  a  marvelous 
country  It  is  a  land  of  the  remote  past,  and  it 
will  be  a  land  of  wonderful  interest  in  the  dis- 
tant future.  In  the  writer's  boyhcod  he  was 
accustomed  to  read  to  his  parents  the  newspapers 
giving  accounts  of  the  terrible  mutiny.  Rela- 
tives of  his  father  and  mother  from  the  High- 
lands of  Scotland  were  among  the  brave  soldiers 
under  Sir  Colin  Campbell.  It  was  therefore 
with  the  deepest  interest  that  visits  were  made 
to  Cawnpore  and  Lucknow,  the  latter  place  being 
the  very  heart  of  the  mutiny. 

375 


1 9 


11  *  ■ 


t,'. 


i  : 


'■| 


"}'      '' 


I      I 


?>7^ 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


The  City  ok  the  Mutiny. — Lucknow  is 
about  fifty  miles  distant  from  Cawnpore.  The 
journey  between  the  two  cities  abounds  in  his- 
toric associations  with  the  mutiny,  and  with 
British  rule  in  India  as  a  whole.  Lucknov/ 
covers  thirty-six  square  miles  and  has  a  popula- 
tion of  about  two  hundred  and  eighty-five  thou- 
sand, at  least  three-quarters  of  whom  are  Hindus. 
Lucknow  is  the  fourth  city  in  size  in  the  Indian 
Empire,  Calcutta,  Madras,  and  Bombay  being 
the  only  larger  cities.  It  is  situated  chiefly  on 
the  right  or  southwest  bank  of  the  river  Guniti, 
and  is  the  capital  of  the  province  and  former 
kingdom  of  Oudh.  The  river  Gumti  is  here 
navigable  at  all  seasons,  upward  for  many  miles 
and  downward  all  the  way  to  the  Ganges.  The 
river  is  crossed  by  three  bridges. 

The  city  seen  in  the  distance  is  imposing  to 
an  unusual  degree.  It  conveys  the  impression 
of  great  splendor  because  of  its  numerous  turrets 
and  pinnacles  and  its  many  superb  buildings ; 
but  a  closer  examination  of  its  filthy  and  narrow 
streets  and  its  mud  or  bamboo  houses  quite  re- 
verses the  early  impression.  The  streets  are 
often  many  feet  below  the  level  of  the  shops  on 
each  side.  The  English  quarter,  however,  con- 
tains beautiful  public  buildings,  and  is  adorned 
with  fine  gardens.  One  is  profoundly  impressed 
by  the  difference  between  Christianity  and  hea- 
thenism by  comparing  the  streets  and  buildings 
occupied  by  one  or  the  other  faith  as  one  enters 
these  Oriental  cities.  Going  from  the  heathen 
to   the   Christian   quarter   in    Benares,  for  ex- 


•■  -I? 


Ill 


"^he 


LUCKNOW 


Zll 


ample,  is  almost  the  contrast  between  hades  and 
heaven. 

Lucknow  does  not  contain  many  bnildincrs 
which  seeni  to  be  very  old,  and  yet  nianv  Indian 
lecrends  and  histories  claim  that  it  is  older  than 
any  of  the  other  great  cities  of  India.  Some 
authorities  affirm  that  it  was  founded  by  Laksh- 
mana  brother  of  Rama.  It  has  important  native 
schools  in  which  an  elementary  education  can 
be  secured  and  in  which  Mohammedan  theolocry 
IS  taught.  ^^ 

Lucknow  abounds  in  memories  of  the  fricrluful 
scenes  connected  with  the  mutiny  of   i8?7-^8 
and    especially  of    the   privations 'endured    and 
the    courage    manifested     by    the    beleaguered 
men  and  women  within  the  walls  of  the  Resi- 
dency.    Here  a  few  noble  souls  heroically  held 
out  against    hordes  of   rebels   until  they   were 
relieved  by  the  brave  men  and  true  under  Sir 
Colin  Campbell.     No  man  with  British  blood 
or  any  other  good  blood,  in  his  veins  can  fail  to 
be  moved  by  the  memory  of   the  noble  deeds 
performed  in  Lucknow  by  Uwrence,  Havelock, 
Outram,  Campbell,  and  the  brave  men  whoin 
they  commanded.     Lucknow  surpassed  all  other 
places  in  its  determined  resistance  to  the  onsets 
of  the  insurgents. 

Naturally  we  drive  first  to  the  Residency  after 
having  examined  a  model  of  it  made  by  Chan- 
lain  Moore.  The  Residency,  with  its  varied 
dependencies,  is  more  than  two  thousand  feet 
long  and  more  than  one  thousand  feet  broad 
from  east  to  west.     The  buildings  are  in  ruins, 


! 


,1 


'I 

' 

\ 

I' 

1, 

.*»( 


ft  ii 


378 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


and  remain  snbstantially  as  they  were  when 
evacuated  at  "the  relief."  The  shattered  walls 
bear  eloquent  testimony  to  the  fearful  experiences 
of  those  terrible  days.  The  visitor's  attention 
is  immediately  fixed  upon  the  obelisk,  erected 
by  Lord  Northbrook,  with  its  inscription  in 
memory  of  the  native  officers  and  Sepoys  who 
died  here  while  in  the  performance  of  their  duty 
as  soldiers  of  Britain. 

A  building  of  special  interest  is  the  Dilkusha, 
meaning  "  heart's  delight,"  a  palace  built  by 
Saadat  Ali  Khan  as  a  country  seat.  Near  it  is 
a  park  for  which  he  cleared  large  tracts  of  jun- 
gle, and  having  laid  out  the  ground  with  care 
and  skill,  he  stocked  it  well  with  deer  and  other 
game.  This  was  one  of  the  country  seats  of  the 
kings  of  Oudh.  Here  women  and  children,  as 
well  as  the  wounded  men  who  were  rescued  from 
the  Residency,  found  a  tempoiary  shelter.  It  was 
touching  to  remember  that  our  brave  Baptist 
brother.  General  Havelock,  found  shelter  here. 
He  died  November  24,  1857,  ^^  dysentery  and 
its  consequent  weakness. 

Another  building  of  great  interest  is  the  Mar- 
tiniere  College,  a  college  intended  especially  for 
half-caste  children.  This  building  was  endowed 
by  Major  General  Claude  Martin,  a  French  ad- 
venturer, and  a  native  of  Lyons,  France.  He 
was  the  son  of  a  cooper,  and  he  served  under 
Lally  in  the  regiment  of  Lorraine.  He  and  some 
of  his  comrades  were  taken  by  Lord  Clive,  and 
he  then  entered  the  British  service.  He  went 
to  India  as  a  private  soldier,  and  finally  he  rose 


<  I' 


I     I 


I 


lA'CKNOW 


379 


as 


to  g;rcat  power  and  influence  under  tlie  native 
ji^overnment.  Cicncral  Martin  died  in  1800,  and 
was  buried  in  a  vault  under  the  college  building. 

There  is  an  English  church,  an  observatory, 
a  hospital,  a  dispensary,  a  Methodist,  a  Catholic, 
and  still  other  churches,  some  of  which  are 
worthy  a  visit.  Sikandara  Bagh,  "Alexander 
Garden,"  was  formerly  a  garden,  as  the  word 
"  ^r/^// "  implies.  It  is  now  a  large  walled  en- 
closuic.  For  a  time  during  the  mutiny  it  was 
a  stronghold  for  the  rebels ;  but  here  a  great 
many  Sepoys  were  killed  within  two  hours  by 
the  Ninety-third  Highlanders,  with  some  detach- 
ments of  the  Fourth  Punjab  Rifles  and  the  Fifty- 
third  F'oot,  under  Sir  Colin  Campbell.  Every 
inch  of  soil  within  that  enclosure  must  have 
been  thoroughly  saturated  with  blood.  The 
churchyard  near  the  Residency  is  still  kept  in 
order  and  the  monuments  and  tablets  tell  the 
story  of  the  death  of  many  a  gallant  soldier  who 
died  in  the  mutiny. 

The  jMachchi  Bhawan — Fish  Buildings — the 
name  being  given  from  the  heraldic  symbol  of 
Oudh,  are  buildings  well  worthy  of  a  visit.  The 
Great  Imambara  was  the  place  for  caste  meetings 
and  feasts.  It  is  a  building  which  would  attract 
the  attention  of  any  visitor  from  any  land,  and 
it  has  a  hall  which  is  said  to  be  the  largest  in 
India.  The  ceiling  of  this  octagonal  room  is 
richly  decorated,  and  a  plain  slab  marks  the 
place  where  Asafu  Daulah  is  buried.  Although 
the  sun  was  scorching  hot  at  the  time,  a  climb 
to  the  terraced  roof  of  this  superb  building  richly 


38o 


AROUND  THK   WORLD 


•/ 


paid,  because  of  the  magnificent  view  of  the  city 
and  country  whicii  it  afforded.  This  great  build- 
ing was  erected  in  1784,  the  year  of  a  terrible 
famine,  in  order  to  afford  relief  to  the  men  who 
wrought  in  its  erection. 

The  Hoseinabad,  or  Palace  of  Lights,  is  also 
an  attractive  building,  and  contains  some  rare 
and  costly  chandeliers.  The  Cluittar  Munzil,or 
Umbrella  House,  is  a  fantastic  building,  deriv- 
ing its  name  from  the  shape  of  the  ornament  by 
which  it  is  surmounted.  The  best  rooms  in  this 
building  are  now  used  for  clubs  and  theatricals. 
The  Alam  Bagli  is  an  enclosure  of  great  interest 
because  of  its  relation  to  the  operations  of  Have- 
lock,  Outram,  and  Sir  Colin  Campbell  in  the 
relief  of  Lucknow.  Sir  Henry  Havelock  is 
buried  in  this  garden.  The  museum,  the  iron 
bridge,  the  observatory,  and  the  Moti  Mahal, 
meaning  Pearl  Palace,  and  other  places,  are 
worthy  of  the  tourist's  attention.  A  drive 
through  the  bazaars  gives  an  opportunity  to 
examine  examples  of  native  manufacture,  and 
shows  how  the  plastic  clay  figures  are  so  skillfully 
modeled  in  color. 

In  Lucknow  I  met  Scotch  and  English  sol- 
diers who  were  full  of  stirring  memories  of  the 
mutiny.  One  old  man,  now  a  pensioner,  had 
served  under  Sir  Henry  Havelock.  He  could 
not  say  too  much  of  the  bravery  and  Christian 
character  of  that  humble  Christian  and  heroic 
soldier.  Seldom  have  I  been  more  moved  than 
I  was  as  I  listened  to  these  stirring  recitals. 

The  cemetery  is  certainly  one  of   the  most 


.  I  a; 


r*  ; 


LUCKNOW  381 

interesting  spots  in  Lncknow  ;  no  fewer  than 
two  thonsand  men  and  women  lie  there  asktp 
It  is  beantifnlly  laid  out  with  flowers  and  walks! 
It  may  be  permitted  to  (jnote  here-  the-  t-pilaph 
of  Sir  Henry  Uiwrence,  dietated  by  himself: 

t'ere  lies 

Hi:nky  Lawkknck, 

Wlio  tried  to  do  his  duty. 

May  the  Lord  have  mercy  on  his  soul! 

Born  28th  of  June,   1J06. 

Died  4th  of  July,   1857. 

Sir  Hknry  PIavki.ock.— Hut  no  inscription 
interested  ine  so  much  as  that  of  Sir  Henry 
Havelock,  written  by  his  wife.  His  tomb  is  an 
obelisk,  thirty  feet  hi^di,  in  the  Alam  Hacrh.  u 
was  thron.irli  his  bravery  that  it  ]>ecame  possible 
to  reach  I.ncknow,  and  at  Alam  P,a«^]i  his  fame 
was  assured,  so  it  was  fittincr  that  there  he  should 
find  his  tomb.  His  death  occurred  a  few  days 
after  the  relief  of  those  who  endured  sorrow  and 
starvation  for  four  months  in  the  Residencv. 

Sir  Henry  Havelock  was  born  at  Bishop  Wear- 
mouth,  county  of  Durham,  Kno-land,  April  5, 
1795.  He  was  one  of  a  familv  of  seven  brotlicrs 
and  sisters.  His  mother  was  a  most  o(,(i]y 
woman.  She  was  accustomed  to  assemble  the 
children  for  the  reading:  oi  the  Scriptures  and  tlie 
ofTenn.or  of  prayers.  He  entered  the  Enolish 
army  about  a  month  after  the  battle  of  Watedoo. 
While_  sailino-  to  India,  in  1823,  ^le  became  a 
Christian  by  a  livincr  pt-sonal  experience  that 
his  sins  were  forgiven  and  that  he  was  accepted 


!-'_ 


r^i' 


38- 


AUOINI)    TlIK    WORLD 


r(/"'i 


i.'i 


/( 


' » 


''1 '  ^' 
•j  ^1 


1  v^ 


!'  If' 


■1  II 


tliroiij^^h  Jesus  Christ,  and  liis  whole  soul  flowed 
with  heavenly  love.  He  often  expounded  the 
Scriptures  to  the  soldiers  about  him.  Mis  in- 
fluence was  as  blessed  as  it  was  extensive  in  the 
army.  He  was  married  February  9,  1829,  to 
Hannah,  the  third  dauj^hter  of  Doctor  Marsh- 
man,  the  companion  of  the  immortal  Carey.  At 
vSerampore  he  was  baptized,  April  4,  1830,  by 
the  Rev.  John  Mack,  and  he  was  ever  afterward 
an  earnest  Christian  and  a  consistent  Baptist. 

His  whole  career  in  Hurma,  in  Afj^hanistan, 
in  the  Sikh  war,  and  afterward  in  the  Sepoy 
Mutiny,  is  worthy  of  unqualified  admiration.  On 
his  way  to  Lucknow  he  fought  nearly  fifty  thou- 
sand Sepoys  with  two  thousand  five  hundred 
men.  In  his  last  moments  he  said  to  Sir  James 
Outran! :  "  For  more  than  forty  vears  I  have  so 
ruled  my  life  that  when  death  came  I  might  face 
it  without  fear.  I  am  not  in  the  least  afraid  ;  to 
die  is  gain.  I  die  happy  and  contented."  To 
his  eldest  son,  who  waited  upon  him  with  great 
tenderness,  he  said,  "  Come,  my  son,  and  see  how 
a  Christian  can  die."  The  inscription  on  his 
tomb  is  as  follows  : 

Here  rest  the  mortal  remains  of 

Henky  Havelock, 

Major  General  in  the  British  Army, 

Knight  Commander  of  the  Bath, 

Who  died  at  Dilkusha,  Laknau,  of  dysentery, 

Produced  by  the  hardships  of  a  campaign. 

In  which  he  achieved  immortal  fame, 

On  the  24th  of  November,   1857. 

He  was  born  on  the  5  th  of  April,   1795, 

At  Bishop  Wearmouth,  County  Durham,  England  ; 


I,UCKNO\V 


383 


to 


Kntcrcd  the  army  in  1815  ; 

C.iinc  to  liuliii  in  1H23, 

And  served  tlicrc,  with  little  interruption, 

Until  his  death. 

His  ashes  in  a  peaceful  urn  shall  rest, 

His  name  a  great  example  stands,  to  show 

How  strangely  liiglj  endeavors  may  be  blessed 
When  piety  and  valour  jointly  go. 

This  monument  is  erected  by 
His  mourning  widow  and  family. 

_  General   Havelock  was  the  subject  of  suspi- 
cioii,  and  even  of  positive  dislike,  on  the  part  of 
many  officers  of  the  army.    His  decided  Christian 
lite  did  not  sccnre  for  hini  tlie  affection  of  men  in 
military  life.     It  is  believed  that  he  was  discriini- 
nated  a<rainst  111  the  distribution  of  troops  and  in 
tlie  promotion  of  officers.     When  he  came  from 
Persia  to  assist  in   pnttin^r  down  the  Sepoy  re- 
bellion lie  was  a  sick  man.     He  was  made,  for 
the  reason  sns:^rcsted,  the  tarj^et  at  that  time  of 
mnch  hostile  criticism.     General  Neill  wrote  of 
him   in  a  complaininrr  and    hostile   spirit,   bnt 
Havelock  was  firm  in  his  plans  and  nnwaverintr 
in  his  methods.     His  arrival  at  the  Alam  Baj^h, 
near  Lncknow,  was  the  signal  that  the  victory 
was  won  and  the  nuitiny  crnshed.     Practically 
he  was  recognized  as  the  conqneror  of  the  muti- 
neers and  as  the  deliverer  of  India.     His  trnst 
111  God  never  failed  him,  and  amid  much  bodily 
suffering  he  kept  on  heroically  in  the  accom- 
plishment of  his  plans  until  victory  was  secured. 

It  gives  the  writer  pleasure  to  give  Havelock 


■  • 


Ir-,'  \> 


384 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


the  honor  which  was  tardily  bestowed  upon  him 
when  he  virtually  became  the  hero  of  the  terri- 
ble conflict.  Few  men  in  the  group  of  Christian 
soldiers  in  the  history  of  the  world  more  per- 
fectly combined  religious  fervor  and  martial 
bravery  than  did  Sir  Henry  Havelock.  He  is 
the  real  hero  of  the  Sepoy  IMutiny. 

The  Sikandara  Bagh. — I  have  already  re- 
ferred to  the  Sikandara  Bagh.  This  /wi,'//,  or 
garden,  which  once  belonged  to  an  Indian 
princess,  is  a  square  about  one  hundred  and 
twenty  yards  in  extent,  and  is  surrounded  by 
a  high  wall.  As  Campbell,  Havelock,  and 
Outran!  w^ere  drawing  together,  the  Sepoys  saw 
clearly  that  they  must  seek  shelter.  Into  this 
garden  they  rushed,  and  endeavored  to  close 
the  gate  when  all  of  them  had  entered  ;  but  four 
soldiers,  two  of  them  Scotchmen  and  two  of 
them  natives,  prevented  the  closing  of-  the  gate 
at  the  risk  of  their  lives.  Two  of  them  were 
shot  and  the  other  two  crushed  as  they  pre- 
vented the  gate  from  closing.  It  is  said  that 
a  Sikh  corporal  put  his  hand  through  the 
gate  to  control  the  bolt  and  had  his  hand  cut 
off  with  a  sword  ;  and  it  is  also  said  that  with 
the  other  hand  he  secured  and  retained  his  hold 
of  the  bolt.  Then  the  pursuing  columns  of  sol- 
diers arrived.  The  Sepoys  saw  that  they  were  in 
a  pen.  They  could  not  climb  the  wall,  and 
there  wns  no  entrance  save  by  the  gate,  and  the 
British  soldiers  were  pouring  through  that  gate. 
Many  of  the  soldiers  thus  approaching  had  seen 


I. 


LUC  KNOW 


385 


their   kinsmen,  and  some  of  them   tlicir  wives 
and  children,  slanghtered    by  these   mnrderous 
tsepoys       Uiey  were  wild  with  racre  ;  they  were 
hot  for  blood.     The  Sepoys  were  absolntely  help- 
less   and  every  one  of  the  one  thousand  six  hun- 
dred and  forty-three  met  his  fate  at    the  cold 
steel    of    the    wrathful    British    soldiers.     That 
once  smilino-  crarden  was  thus  drenched  in  blood 
It  was  a  terrible  slaughter,  but  who  can  blame 
these  soldiers?     There  has  been  no  attempt  to 
beautify  the  place  since.     It  lies  there  as  an  ut- 
terly  nccrlected    place,    and   amid    its    tan^rlcd 
growths  are  mounds  showing  where    the  dead 
Sepoys  were  thrown  into  great  pits  which  were 
their  common  grave.     It  will  be  manv  genera- 
tions, if  ever,  before  the  Sikandara  Bagli  will  be 
used  as  a  garden  or  as  the  site  of  public  build- 
ings. 

I.ESSONS  OF  THE  Mutiny.— The  caste  preiu- 
dice  of  the  native  soldiers  which  prevented  them 
from  biting  off  the  ends  of  cartridges  in  which 
was  the  grease  of  cows  and  hogs,  was  the  occa- 
sion but  not  the  cause  of  the  mutinv  The 
cause  was  the  realization  of  the  fact  tliat  Brit- 
ain was  securing  a  firm  footing  on  Indian  soil 
We  can  readily  understand  how  quicklv  the 
caste  prejudice,  both  of  Hindus  and  "Mohamme- 
dans would  make  itself  felt,  but  the  cause  lav 
much  deeper.  It  was  wonderful  how  quicklv 
the  news  of  the  mutiny  spread. 

Bishop   Hurst   reminds    us  that   in    Januarv 
1857,  a  Ivaskar  in  Calcutta  asked  a  Sepoy  to  give 

z 


I 


1 


ir 


1/  .'   ■  ' 


:  t. 


i| 


\ 


I 


i  r-. 


I'ffMH 


'  i 


i    1 


t 


: 


386 


AROUND   Til?:   WORLD 


liiiu  a  diink  out  of  his  /o/a,  or  walcr-cup.  Tlic 
Sepoy,  becausv_  of  his  high  caste,  iiulij^naiitly  rc- 
fusecl  to  grant  tlie  request.  The  Laskar  replied 
that  the  Sepoy  was  polhitiug  his  caste  by  biting 
the  cartridges  which  contained  the  grease  of 
cows  and  hogs.  The  news  spread  rapidly,  and 
in  a  regiment  of  native  troops  only  about  five  in 
a  hundred  would  touch  the  cartridges.  Soon  a 
soldier  was  sent  to  a  military  station  with  a 
lotus  flower  in  his  hand.  This  he  gave  to  the 
chief  native  officer,  who  in  turn  gave  it  to  a 
soldier.  It  was  then  passed  on  nutil  every  sol- 
dier had  received  it.  The  last  soldier  receiv- 
ing it  took  it  to  the  next  station.  No  words 
were  spoken,  but  all  understood  the  fearful 
meaning  of  this  act.  It  meant  death  to  every 
Englishman.  It  reminds  one  of  the  fiery  cross 
used  by  the  Highlanders  in  vScotland  to  arouse 
the  clans. 

Six  little  cakes  of  unleavened  bread,  called 
chapatties^  were  sent  to  tlie  chief  man  of  a  vil- 
lage. He  forwarded  them  to  the  corresponding 
officer  of  the  next  village.  In  this  case,  as 
among  the  soldiers,  no  words  were  spoken  ;  but 
all  understood  the  significance  of  this  act.  The 
priests  also  appealed  to  the  religious  prejudices 
of  the  people,  and  were  an  influential  factor  in 
creating  a  sentiment  against  the  foreign  rulers. 
It  was  a  time  of  terrible  trial  for  all  the  British 
residents.  They  did  not  know  whom  to  trust. 
These  insurgents  had  been  armed  and  trained 
by  the  English,  against  whom  now  they  were 
using  English  armor  and  training.     The  great 


LUCKNOW  387 

centers  were  Cawnporc,  Lucknow,  and  Delhi, 
lliis  wriler  can  never  tor jret  his  boyish  nienio- 
ries  of  those  terrible  clays. 

The    nintiny   tancrht    Britain    that    she  mnst 
henceforth  recognize  relicrions  princii)les  in  the 
government  of    India.     The  spirit  of    the  mis- 
sionaries was  never  appreciated  before  as  it  was 
after  the  nuitiny.     The  natives  were  al.so  tanght 
that  they  never  can  expect  to  drive  Britain  ont 
of  India.      1  he  mutiny  failed,  and  failed  forever. 
Bnt  It  led  to  the  granting  of  fnller  rights  to  the 
natives  of   India;  Great   Britain  afterward  pn^ 
the  natives  on  the  same  basis  as  that  on  which 
all  other   British    snbjccts  stand.     Great  honor 
was  given  to  the  native  princes  who  remained 
loyal  to  Britain  during  that  trying  period.     By 
special   management  on  the  pare  of  Lord  Bea- 
consfield,  Qneen  Victoria  was  declared  Empress 
of   India.     Perhaps  the  native  Indians  do  not 
love  England,  bnt  they  know  that  if  her  strong 
hand  were  removed  the  foot  of   Russia  would 
take  its  place.     They  know  well  also  that  Eng- 
land saves  them  from  tribal  jealousies  and  con- 
tinuous slaughters.     They  know  that  England 
conquered  India  not  from  its  original  owners 
but   from    its    conquero-s.     To    quote    Bishop 
Hurst :  ^ 


> 
I 

V, 


'M^  . 


The  history  is  one  long  tragedy.  For  thirty  centuries 
India  has  been  compelled  to  pay  the  painful  penalty  of 
possessing  the  fatal  gifts  of  wealth  and  beauty.  She  is  the 
Lorelei  of  all  the  ages.  She  has  aUracted  the  conqueror 
froni  afar  but,  with  only  the  Anglo-Saxon  exception,  inva- 
riably dealt  him  rum  when  once  within  sound  of  her  siren 


^1 


WB 


m 


■'at' 


I 


ifiv 


1  '>■! -I 
I 


ifllH 


'11 


v! 


Jl. 


! 


fi 


It:    t< 


388 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


voice.     The  whole  of  India  is  one  immense  God's  acre  01' 
dead  civilizations  and  forgotten  races. 

The  noble  Lawrence  was  killed,  as  we  have 
seen,  early  in  July,  and  it  was  not  until  Septem- 
ber 25  that  Havelock  and  Outrani  were  able  to 
force  their  way  into  the  city.  Although  Sir 
Colin  Campbell  brought  additional  reinforce- 
ments in  November,  it  was  not  until  March  19, 
1858,  that  the  British  fully  regained  Lucknow. 
No  traveler  can  ever  forget  the  stirring  memo- 
ries which  will  crowd  upon  him  as  he  visits  im- 
mortal lyucknow. 


i's  acre  oi 


we  have 
Septcni- 
able  to 
ugh  Sir 
^i  11  force- 
arch  19, 
Licknow. 
•;  meinb- 
isits  im- 


XXXI 


DELHI 


DEIvHI  is  a  city  of  remarkable  interest.  If 
a  tourist  could  visit  but  one  citv  in  India, 
Delhi  is  the  one  to  be  selected.  Probably  no 
city  in  India  so  fully  represents  various  civiliza- 
tions as  does  this  city,  which  for  centuries  was 
the  proudest  capital  of  the  Mogul  empire. 
Within  a  circle  of  a  few  miles  about  the  pres- 
ent city,  dynasty  after  dynasty  established  its 
power,  ruled  in  splendor,  and  then  passed  away 
into  silence. 

There  have  been  virtually  several  Delhis,  for 
each  dynasty  founded  a  new  city  on  a  new 
site.  The  old  city  was  then  left  to  crumble  into 
ruins.  Much  of  the  space  once  occupied  by 
these  cities  is  now  abandoned  to  jackals  and 
owls.  Marvelous  secrets  are  hidden  in  this 
ancient  soil;  could  it  be  plowed  up  and  its 
monuments,  palaces,  tombs,  and  mosques  be  re- 
covered, a  history  more  wonderful  than  that  re- 
vealed by  the  excavations  of  Pompeii  would  be 
made  known  to  a  waiting  world.  The  traditions 
of  Mogul  splendor  still  linger  about  the  modern 
as  well  as  the  ancient  cities.  All  the  currents 
of  romance,  of  religion,  and  of  military  daring- 
meet  in  Delhi.  ^ 

389 


'If 


lij 


39" 


AKOUND   THE   WORLD 


Shvkn  Di'I.his. — Probably  the  name  Delhi 
ou^lit  rather  to  be  written  "  Dehli."  The  an- 
cient name  was  Indraprestha,  or  Inderpnt ;  the 
Mohannnedan  name  is  Shahjehanabad.  The  re- 
mains of  the  seven  Delhis  covered  abont  forty- 
five  sqnarc  miles.  These  seven  citif^' ,  as  al- 
ready indicated,  were  built  by  sevv.*n  kinj^^s  of 
the  olden  time.  There  is  mncli  doubt  as  to  the 
actual  positions  of  these  various  cities,  and  prob- 
al)ly  all  the  difficulties  connected  with  these  va- 
rious locations  will  never  be  entirely  remc/vcd. 
It  is  known,  howe\er,  that  at  the  time  of  the 
IMohammedan  conquest  the  Hindu  city  of  Delhi 
was  confined  to  two  forts  named  Lalkot  and  Rai 
Pithora.  Some  trace  the  history  to  a  period  at 
least  i^ooB.  C.  But  all  matters  connected  with 
these  dates  are  and  must  always  be  very  uncer- 
tain. 

It  is  claimed  that  for  nearly  eio^ht  hundred 
years  Delhi  lay  waste  and  was  then  repeopled 
by  a  new  race  of  kinji^s,  who  in  turn  were  dis- 
placed by  kin,q;s  of  other  races.  The  Hindus 
were  constantly  at  war  among  themselves.  As 
a  result  Delhi  was  easily  conquered  by  the  Mo- 
hammedans in  1 191  A.  D.  Then  the  Hindu  em- 
pire which  had  so  lonti^  existed  passed  away,  and 
the  old  city,  probably  at  the  site  of  the  two  forts 
already  named,  w^as  destroyed.  The  IMoham- 
medan kino-s  then  took  complete  possession,  and 
retained  their  position  and  power  until  about 
the  beginning  of  the  present  century.  One 
looks  with  unmingled  astonishment  upon  the 
great   edifices   erected    by  these    Mohannnedan 


DKI.III 


391 


conquerors.  Tlicy  were  the  ^rreat  builders  of 
their  day  in  India  and  otlier  countries  of  wliich 
they  became  masters.  Shah  Jchan,  one  of  tlic 
.i,^reatcst  of  the  Mo<^rul  emperors,  was  tlieir  {great- 
est builder,  but  even  before  his  time  there  were 
builders  worthy  of  oreat  fame. 

In  1739  the  Persian  garrison,  which  had  been 
introduced  into  the  city,  was  put  almost  entirely 
to  death  by  the  pmple.      JXdlii  presented  a  scene 
of  shockincr  slau<rhter.     The  emperor  was  finally 
oblij^red  to  intercede  with  Nadir  Shah,  who  con- 
sented that  the  massacre  should  cease.     Nadir 
left  Delhi,  carryinur  with  him  treasures  estimated 
at    from    thirty    to    seventy    millions    sterlinjr. 
Among  other  objects  of  enormous  value  was  the 
famous    Peacock    Throne   and    the    Koh-i-noor. 
Delhi  was  captured  in    1789  by  Alahadaji  Sin- 
dia,  and   the   Mahrattas  held  possession  of  the 
city  until  September,  1803,  when  General  Lake 
gained  possession   of  the  city   and   also  of    the 
family  and  person  of  Shah  Mam.     A  year  later 
the  city  was  besieg^ed,  but  was  successfully  de- 
fended by  the  British,  in  whose  possession  this 
superb  old   capital   remained   until   1857.     The 
descendants  of  Aurangzib  were  allowed  some  of 
the  rights  of  royalty,  among  them  the  retention 
of  the  title  of  kincr ;    but  the  British   were   in 
possession    and    so    remained    until    the   ^reat 
mutiny  of   1857,  of  which   event  I  shall  make 
full  mention  a  little  later. 

Let  us  oret  clearly  in  our  minds  the  location 
and  g:eneral  characteristics  of  this  wonderfully 
interesting  city.     It  is  the  capital  of  the  prov- 


392 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


iiice  and  district  of  the  same  name  and  is  situ- 
ated on  an  offset  of  the  river  Jnmnc  .  The  loca- 
tion is  hi,u^h,  beinj)^  estimated  at  ei^ht  hundred 
feet  above  sea  level.  The  modern  city  v^as  really 
built  by  the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan  and  com- 
menced in  the  year  1631 ;  this  modern  city  has 
a  circumference  of  about  seven  miles.  In  the 
walls  are  eleven  j^ates,  the  chief  bein<^  the  Raj 
(rhat,  which  faces  the  river  Jumna,  the  Cash- 
mere on  the  north,  the  Cabul  and  the  Lahore  on 
the  west,  the  Ajmere  on  the  southwest,  and  the 
Delhi  on  the  north.  IVIost  of  the  streets  in  this 
remarkable  city  are  narrow,  but  the  Chandni 
Chowk,  mcanin<i^  silver  square,  or  the  native  ba- 
zaar, is  a  noticeable  exception.  This  street  is 
ninety  feet  broad  and  one  thousand  five  hundred 
yards  in  length  and  is  intersected  by  an  aque- 
duct. There  is  another  street,  which  is  a  mile 
lon^:^  and  one  hundred  and  twenty  feet  wide. 
All  visitors  are  enthusiastic  over  the  beauty  of 
the  buildings  in  Delhi  as  well  as  deeply  inter- 
ested in  its  remarkable  history. 


Palaces  and  Thrones. — It  is  difficult  to 
know  how  to  compress  into  a  single  chapter 
what  one  would  like  to  say  regarding  the  sites 
in  Delhi.  We  shall  call  attention  to  them  in 
the  order  in  which  the  average  tourist  would  see 
them,  and  then  give  in  a  few  sentences  the  rela- 
tion of  Delhi  to  the  memorable  mutiny  of  1857. 

The  Diwan-i-Am,  or  Hall  of  Public  Audience, 
is  a  building  which  nuist  arrest  the  attention  of 
every  tourist.     It  is  open  at  three  sides  and  is 


DKUII 


393 


supported  by  rows  of  red  sandstone  pillars.  The 
throne  was  raised  about  ten  feet  from  the  ground 
and  covered  by  a  canopy,  supported  by  four  pil- 
lars of  white  marble.  A  doorway  leads  from 
behind  the  throne  to  the  emperor's  private 
apartment.  The  wall  behind  the  throne  is  gor- 
geous in  mosaics  of  precious  stones  and  paint- 
ings of  fruits,  birds,  and  flowers.  This  was  the 
work  of  Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who,  because  he' 
had  palmed  off  false  gems  on  several  European 
princes,  was  obliged  to  find  refuge  at  the  court 
of  Shah  Jehan.  The  Diwan-i-Khas,  or  Private 
Hall  of  Audience,  is  in  the  immediate  vicinity 
and  is  a  pavilion  of  white  marble,  richly  orna- 
mented with  gold.  The  books  state  that  the 
ceiling  was  once  plated  with  silver,  but  that  it 
was  carried  off  by  the  Mahrattas  in  1760.  Over 
the  north  and  south  arches  is  written  the  famous 
Persian  distich,  which  I  quote  from  Murray's 
"  Handbook  "  : 

If  on  earth  be  an  Eden  of  bliss, 
It  is  this,  it  is  this,  none  but  this. 

There  seems  to  have  been  great  propriety  in 
these  I'nes.  In  the  center  of  the  east  side  is  the 
white  marble  stand  on  which  stood  the  Takht-i- 
Taus,  or  Peacock  Throne,  which  was  carried 
away  in  1739  by  Nadir  Shah.  It  is  said  that 
this  throne  can  still  be  seen  in  the  royal  palace 
at  Teheran.  The  name  " Peacock  Throne"  was 
given  it  because  figures  of  two  peacocks  stood 
behind  it  with  expanded  tails,  the  whole  surface 
being  inlaid  with  rubies,  emeralds,  pearls,  and 


iV.l 


P 


■1' 


;  i 


394 


AROUND  TIIK   WORM) 


■1 


'  I 


H  ' 


otlicr  precious  stones.  It  is  said  tliat  the  colors 
were  so  harmonized  as  to  represent  tlie  actual 
appearance  of  peacocks.  The  cost  of  this  throne 
is  variously  stated  at  from  two  to  six  million 
pounds  sterlinjr.  It  was  six  feet  lonj;  by  four 
feet  broad,  and  it  stood  on  six  massive  feet, 
which,  with  the  body,  wonderful  to  relate,  were 
of  solid  gold  inlaid  with  rubies,  emeralds,  and 
diamonds.  It  was  surmounted  by  a  canopy  of 
j^old  held  in  place  by  twelve  pillars,  all  flashing; 
with  gems,  while  a  fringe  of  pearls  ornamented 
the  canopy  itself.  It  is  difficult  to  see  how  this 
bedstead-like  throne  could  have  been  beautiful 
in  its  design,  however  resplendent  it  was  in  ap- 
pearance and  however  great  its  value.  Between 
the  two  peacocks  there  was  a  parrot  of  ordinary 
size  perched  on  a  tester,  and  said  to  have  been 
carved  out  of  a  single  emerald.  The  umbrella 
was  the  Oriental  emblem  of  royalty,  and  one 
stood  on  each  side  of  the  throne.  These  um- 
brellas were  formed  of  crimson  velvet,  and  the 
handles,  which  were  eig^ht  feet  high,  were  of 
solid  gold,  ornamented  with  diamonds.  It  is 
claimed  that  Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who  probably 
was  one  of  the  chief  architects  of  the  Taj  Mahal, 
was  the  chief  designer  of  this  marvelous  throne. 
Not  far  from  tlie  Diwan-i-Khas  is  the  Saman 
Burj  and  Rang  Mahal.  The  apartments  for  the 
women  are  of  white  marble,  and  in  the  olden 
days  were  probably  surrounded  by  gardens  and 
fountains.  The  palace  in  the  days  of  its  splen- 
dor must  have  been  one  of  the  most  beautiful 
structures  ever  created  by  human  genius  and 


UHMII 


395 


he  colors 
le  actual 
is  throne 
:  inillioii 

by  four 
ive  feet, 
ate,  were 
aids,  and 
[inopy  of 

flashing 
lamented 
how  this 
beautiful 
as  in  ap- 

Between 

ordinary 

ave  been 

umbrella 

and  one 
hese  uni- 

and  the 

were  of 
Is.  It  is 
probably 
ij  Mahal, 
IS  throne, 
le  Saniaii 
ts  for  the 
he  olden 
dens  and 
its  splen- 
beautiful 
nius  and 


wealth.  The  buildin,n^s  that  are  now  left  have 
become  quarters  for  the  Kn^rlish  soldiers.  Then 
conies  the  Moti  iMusjid,  or  the  'M»earl  Mosque." 
A  tourist  soon  becomes  very  familiar  with  this 
name  in  visitinj^  these  Mooul  cities.  This  title 
is  always  given  to  the  mosque  which  is  consid- 
ered the  architectural  gem  of  the  i^lace.  This 
mosque  has  a  bronze  door  covered  with  interest- 
ing designs,  but  the  arches  indicate  the  influence 
of  Hindu  architecture.  It  is  said  to  have  been 
erected  in  1635  by  Aurangzib. 

The  Junima  Musjid,  or  the  chief  mosque,  was 
long  in  the  opinion  of  Mohammedans  one  of  the 
wonders  of  the  world.  It  was  built  by  Shah 
Jehan  in  the  six  years  from  163 1  to  1637.  It 
stands  on  a  paved  platform  four  hundred  and 
fifty  feet  square  and  on  a  rocky  height,  near  the 
center  of  the  city.  It  is  approached  bv  broad 
stone  steps,  forming  one  side  of  a  quadrangle, 
whose  other  sides  are  formed  by  pavilions  and 
arcades.  Its  length  is  two  hundred  and  sixty- 
one  feet,  and  it  is  lined  and  faced  with  white 
marble.  Three  domes  of  white  marble  striped 
with  black  surmount  the  structure,  and  at  each 
end  of  the  front  is  a  lofty  minaret.  Within 
recent  years  the  British  government  has  taken 
great  pains  to  restore  this  wonderful  building. 
It  is  not  unlike  the  Moti  Musjid  in  the  Agra 
Fort,  although  it  is  very  much  larger.  The  ad- 
mixture of  its  materials  robs  it  of  the  beautiful 
effect  produced  by  the  former ;  but  the  combina- 
tion of  its  gateways,  its  towers,  and  domes  gives 
it  a  remarkably  pleasing  effect  as  seen  by  one 


't'' 


I  ■ 


1 1 


i 


H* 
N 


;    ■ 


'I 


396 


AKOUXD   Till'    WORM) 


wlio  approaclics  it  hy  its  broad  stone  steps.  The 
j^ateways  are  snriiiomited  with  galleries,  on  whose 
roof  are  fifteen  marble  domes,  whose  spires  are 
tipi)e(l  witli  j^old.  It  is  claimed  that  no  fewer 
than  five  thonsand  workmen  were  employed  for 
five  vears  in  its  construction.  The  most  matter- 
of-fact  description  which  can  l)e  j^iven  of  this 
marvelous  monument  would  seem  an  exaggera- 
tion to  one  who  has  not  seen  it. 

The  (iolden  Mosque,  so  called  from  its  three 
gilt  domes,  is  also  an  object  of  marked  interest. 
It  is  said  that  it  was  here  that  Nadir  Shah  sat 
during  the  massacre  at  Delhi.  The  Queen's 
(iardens  are  laid  out  with  beautiful  trees  and 
shrubs.  Here  in  these  gardens  is  a  huge  stone 
elei)hant,  which,  according  to  the  inscription, 
was  brought  from  (iwalior  by  the  Emperor 
Shah  Jchan  in  1645. 

There  are  many  other  objects  of  interest  in 
the  town,  but  there  is  not  space  here  to  speak  of 
them  in  detail.  Several  places  of  importance  in 
connection  with  the  mutiny  and  siege  may,  how- 
ever, be  mentioned.  The  St.  James'  IMemorial 
Church  contains  a  larg^e  number  of  tablets  of 
regimental  losses,  showing  in  some  instances 
that  whole  families  perished.  The  Cashmere 
Gate  is  interesting-,  as  through  breaches  near  it 
some  of  the  storming  colunms  passed  during  the 
terrible  crisis.  The  Kudsiya  Gardens  are  near 
the  cemetery,  in  which  is  the  tomb  of  General 
Nicholson,  one  of  the  greatest  heroes  who  led 
the  assault  on  Delhi,  but  fell  in  tiie  hour  of  vic- 
tory. 


DIUJII 


39: 


ps.  Tlie 
on  whose 
I)iies  are 
lo  fewer 
o\ed  for 
L  inatter- 
of  this 
xag^rera- 

ts  tliree 
interest. 
)liali  sat 
Queen's 
ees  and 
?e  stone 
ription, 
)niperor 

^rest  in 
peak  of 
ance  in 
y,  Iiow- 
?niorial 
>lets  of 
stances 
3limere 
near  it 
n^>-  tlie 
e  near 
reneral 
lio  led 
Df  vic- 


Asoka's  Pillar  attracts  the  attention  of  all 
tourists.  It  is  believed  to  have  been  erected 
originally  at  Meernt  by  Kinj;  Asoka,  in  the 
third  century  n.  c.  After  beinj;  thrown  down 
and  broken  into  various  i)icces,  it  was  finally  set 
up  in  this  place  by  the  British  j^'^overnnicnt  in 
1 867.  There  is  another  of  Asoka's  pillars  near 
Delhi;  the  other  is  on  the  top  of  a  l)uil(linn  in 
the  village  of  Fero/abad.  These  pillars  are  b  •- 
lieved  to  have  been  brou^dit  to  Delhi  by  Feroz 
vShali,  and  they  are  also  believed  to  be  Huddhist 


remains 


The  Mutiny  Memorial  is  an  octanronal  Gothic 
spire  of  red  sandstone.  It  was  erected  to  com- 
memorate the  names  of  the  rej^Muients  and  bat- 
teries that  served  in  the  mutiny,  and  of  the  offi- 
cers who  died  in  the  performance  of  their  duty. 
On  the  ridjre  is  the  sj)ot  where  her  majesty, 
Queen  Victoria,  was  proclaimed  Empress  of  India 
on  the  first  of  January,  1S77.  This  was  an  oc- 
casion of  wonderful  interest.  Lord  Lytton  oc- 
cupied a  place  in  a  center  pavilion,  while  in  front 
of  liim  were  all  the  crreat  princes  and  chiefs  of 
India,  and  behind  him  sat  the  leadin^r  European 
officials  and  envoys  from  places  as  distant  as 
vSiam,  and  near  him  was  drawn  up  a  British  and 
Indian  army  of  fifty  thousand  men. 

Old  Delhi  and  its  neicvhborhc  )d  contain  ]:)laces 
of  very  crrcat  interest.  Mention  has  alreadv 
been  made  of  the  Asoka  Pillar,  and  much  more 
might  be  said  regardincr  it  and  its  Pali  inscrip- 
tion. The  Killa  Kona  Mosque  is  a  noble  speci- 
men of   the   architecture  of  the    "late    Pathan 


'li 


•W' 


398 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


period."  There  are  also  tombs  here  worthy  of 
elaborate  descriptions,  especially  that  of  Jehanara, 
the  daughter  of  Shah  Jehan.  The  tombs  of 
Nizanm-din  Aiiliya,  and  Humayun,  and  also 
that  of  Safdar  Jang  are  worthy  a  full  descrip- 
tion. 


U 


m      -I' 


("  ^ 


^\ 


f    ^ 


I    1 


Marvklous  Pillars. — But  there  is  no  ob- 
ject of  greater  interest  than  the  Kutub  Minar. 
This  is  about  eleven  miles  from  Delhi,  and  is 
said  to  be  one  of  the  highest  pillars  in  the  world, 
being  two  hundred  and  forty-two  feet  high.  Its 
diameter  at  the  base  is  forty-seven  feet,  and 
the  pillar  is  ascended  by  three  hundred  and 
seven ty-iiine  stone  steps.  The  view  from  the 
summit  of  this  pillar  is  truly  magnificent.  It 
is  said  to  be  on  the  site  of  the  original  Hindu 
city  of  Dilli.  It  is  supposed  to  be  a  tower  cf 
victory,  but  its  origin  is  lost  in  obscurity.  Some 
say  that  it  was  built  by  Rai  Pithora,  that  his 
daughter  might  see  the  Jumna  from  its  top  ;  but 
others  claim  that  it  is  of  Hindu  origin,  although 
probably  it  was  completed  by  the  Mohammedan 
conquerors.  It  rises  in  a  succession  of  five  stories 
marked  by  balconies  and  decorated  by  bands  of 
inscription.  The  first  three  stories  are  of  red 
sandstone,  and  the  two  upper  stories  are  faced 
with  white  marble.  The  upper  portion  was  re- 
built ill  1368,  when  the  cupola  was  added.  An 
earthquake  on  the  first  of  August,  1803,  seriously 
injured  the  pillar  and  threw  the  cupola  to  the 
ground.  In  1829  it  was  unwisely  restored,  the 
inscriptions  being  injured,  and  the  battlements 


■i>i 


..  ' :;  V: 


h     h 


DKLHI 


399 


^vortliy  of 
Jehaiiara, 
tombs  of 
and  also 
descrip- 


s  no  ob- 
b  Minar. 
i,  and  is 
le  world, 
igli.  Its 
eet,  and 
red  and 
roni  the 
ent.     It 

1  Hindu 
ovver  of 

Some 
:hat  his 
3p;  but 
Ithough 
imedan 
-  stories 
ands  of 
of  red 

2  faced 
was  re- 
1  An 
riously 
to  the 
ed,  the 
sments 


and  balconies  being  removed  and  replaced  by 
the  present  balustrade.  The  honeycomb  work 
beneath  Uie  brackets  of  tlie  lower  balconies  is 
the  same  in  style  as  portions  of  the  Alhambra. 

There  is  not  space  to  speak  at  length  of  the 
old  observatory  on  the  road  from  the  old  to  the 
new  Delhi,  the  Iron  Pillar,  which  is  one  of  the 
strangest  antiquities  in  India,  and  of  tombs  and 
other  public  buildings  in  and  about  this  remark- 
able city  of  Delhi.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say 
that  the  Kutub  INIinar  is  one  of  the  wonders  of 
India.  There  is  in  it  remarkable  harmony  of 
gracefulness  and  strength.  It  is  wonderful  that 
it  should  have  remained  through  so  many  cen- 
turies with  its  masonry  so  nearly  intact  and  its 
delicate  decorations  so  beautifully  preserved ; 
perhaps  it  had  some  relation  to  the  two  courts 
of  the  ancient  Hirdu  temple  near  which  it 
stands.  The  Iron  Pillar,  to  which  allusion  has 
been  made,  has  an  inscription  in  Sanskrit  sig- 
nifying that  the  power  of  the  Hindus  will  abide 
so  long  as  this  pillar  endures.  It  is  called  "The 
Arm  of  Fame  of  Rajah  Dhava."  Probably  the 
pillar  was  originally  surmounted  by  Vishnu,  of 
which  deity  the  rajah  was  a  worshiper.  Some 
believe  that  the  pillar  was  put  ir.  its  position  by 
the  Hindus  as  early  as  a.  d.  319.  Its  depth  in 
the  ground  is  twenty-eight  feet,  its  height  above 
the  ground  twenty-two  feet,  and  its  weight  is 
estimated  to  be  at  least  seventeen  tons. 

Treasure   and   Slaughter. — Tourists   are 
permitted,  under  certain  conditions,  to  visit  the 


Ail 

m 


/I 

>?  ' 

■  4' 
'  1   1 

''1 
i 

'  ■      '''h     \ 

iff'  ' 

r 

■  ^  '■ 

!' 

;       y 

.''I 

^i^* 

1 

i  . 

■ 

•i 

1 

'I- 

11     ! 

•'•fi' 

^1 

it-  t  ' 

:  !■'  m  * 

'?n 

=!! 


)■  *, 


400 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


palace  of  the  late  king  of  Delhi.  IMany  evi- 
dences of  its  former  elegance  and  splendor  are 
still  there,  and  some  remains  of  the  famous  Pea- 
cock Throne  are  still  to  be  seen.  Delhi  never 
recovered  from  the  blov,'  inflicted  upon  it  by 
Nadir  Shah,  who  murdered  its  people  and  carried 
away  its  treasures,  valued  at  least  at  one  hundred 
million  pounds  sterling.  The  Koh-i-noor  dia- 
mond was  among  his  prizes  on  that  occasion. 
This  diamond,  "  Mountain  of  Light,"  now  forms 
a  part  of  Queen  Victoria's  jewels,  after  a  strange 
and  romantic  history. 

When  Nadir  Shah  sacked  Delhi,  and  broke 
up  the  Peacock  Throne,  to  his  disappointment 
he  failed  to  find  the  great  Koh-i-noor,  which  he 
knew  formed  one  of  tin  yes  of  one  peacock. 
The  Mogul  emperor  did  not  seem  to  have  it  in 
his  possession,  but  a  woman  informed  the  con- 
queror that  it  was  concealed  in  the  turban  of  the 
defeated  emperor.  The  conqueror  did  not  dare 
institute  a  search  for  the  missing  treasure,  as  a 
treaty  had  been  concluded,  and  most  of  the 
jewels  were  in  his  hands.  With  true  Oriental 
shrewdness  he  resorted  to  a  trick,  which  proved 
successful.  Nadir  proposed  to  the  defeated  shah 
that  a  great  feast  should  be  held  to  show  the 
amity  of  their  present  relations.  At  the  height 
of  the  elaborate  ceremonies  Nr  ur  proposed  to 
the  defeated  emperor,  as  a  proc>f  >  good  faith, 
an  exchange  of  turbans.  This  va  a  critical 
moment  for  both.  The  turban  of  the  conqueror 
glittered  with  gems ;  that  of  the  defeated  shah 
was  plain  in  the  extreme,  but  hidden  in  its  folds 


laiiy  evi- 
sndor  are 
nous  Pea- 
:lhi  never 
on  it  by 
id  carried 
hundred 
loor  dia- 
occasion. 
3w  forms 
1  strange 

id  broke 
ointment 
vliicli  he 
peacock, 
ave  it  in 
tlie  con- 
m  of  tlie 
not  dare 
ire,  as  a 

of   the 
Oriental 

proved 
ed  shah 
Iiow  the 
t  height 
•osed  to 
d  faith, 
critical 
iiqueror 
'd  shah 
ts  folds 


DELHI 


401 


was  the  priceless  Koh-i-noor.  There  was  no 
time  for  reflection;  action  must  be  prompt. 
What  could  the  possessor  of  the  great  gem  do  ^ 
Ihe  exchange  was  made.  Nadir  retired  to  liis 
tent,  hastily  removed  the  turban,  and  joyouslv 
saw  that  the  Koh-i-noor  was  his. 

For  years  this  priceless  diamond  was  a  part  of 
the  treasury  in  Uhore.     But  in  1849  the  East 
India  Company  took  this  treasury  in  part  vay- 
ment  of  the  debt  which  the  Lahore  government 
owed  wlien  the  Punjab  was  annexed  to  the  Britisli 
possessions.     It  was  a  part  of   this  stipulation 
that  the  Koh-i-noor  should  be  given  to  Queen 
Victoria.     Soon  after  the  East  India  Board  met 
and  the  diamond  was  committed  to  Lord  Law- 
rence, to  be  delivered  to  the  queen.     He  put  it 
into  the  pocket  of   his  waistcoat,  went  home 
clianged  his  clothes,  and  forgot  all   about  the 
treasure  in  the  pocket.     Soon  after  a  messaire 
came  froin  the  queen  ordering  the  diamond  to 
be  sent   her.     Sir  John   Lawrence  said  to  his 
brother  Henry,  "  Well,  send  it  at  once."     Heiirv 
rep  led,  "Why,  you  have  it."     John  w^as  filled 
with   astonishment   and   alarm.      He   searched 
diligently   for  the  garment,  and  anxiously  ex- 
amined Its  pockets,  and  there  lay  the  Koh-i-noor. 
It  lias  undergone  many  changes  in  cutting  and 
dressing  and  setting;  but  it  now  secureU  rests 
in  Windsor  Castle.     This  is  but  a  brief  outline 
ot  a  long,  mysterious,  and  fascinating  historv  as 
to  d  in  part  by  Bishop  Hurst,  and  much  more 
tully  by  several  historians. 

Delhi  will  always  be  closely  identified  with 


2  A 


,1 


1- 


•.|;.    ill 

■It  i 

fit 


<• 


■'-R 


I 


• 


I 


0 
• 


■i 


402 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


the  great  Indian  Mutiny.  It  is  not  too  nuich  to 
say  that  for  a  time  Delhi  was  its  very  center  and 
the  citadel  of  its  strength.  It  was  most  natural 
that  around  this  city  of  Hindu  and  Alohammedin 
history  a  romantic  interest  should  have  gathered 
for  those  who  were  anxious  to  throw  off  British 
rule,  and  to  crown  Delhi  with  something  of  its 
ancient  glory.  There  was  a  sufTicient  number 
of  Knglish  soldiers  in  the  cantonment  to  have 
crushed  the  mutiny,  but  General  Hewitt  did  not 
appreciate  the  necessity  for  vigorous  action,  and 
soon  the  jails  were  opened,  and  the  worst  men 
in  the  city  v/ere  massacring  the  women  and  chil- 
dren, and  burning  the  houses.  The  mutineers 
secured  possession  of  Delhi  and  held  it  with  a 
firm  hand.  Not  until  September  were  the 
British  able  to  secure  possession  again.  They 
knew  well  that  they  must  be  masters  of  Delhi 
or  they  could  not  really  perpetuate  their  power 
in  India,  but  the  rebels  had  so  intrenched  them- 
selves that  it  seemed  well-nigh  impossible  to  dis- 
lodge them.  Delhi,  it  was  well  known,  would 
minister  as  no  other  town  in  India  to  the  pride 
of  a  glorious  history.  After  the  mutiny  broke 
out  Shah  Mohammed  Bahadoser,  then  ninety 
years  old,  took  charge  of  the  city,  resuming  the 
imperial  state  which  once  he  enjoyed. 

After  repeated  failures  the  British,  under  Gen- 
eral Nicholson,  retook  Delhi.  The  walls  near 
the  Cashmere  gate  still  bear  traces  of  the  shot 
and  shell  of  those  terrible  days.  The  gate  was 
blown  open  by  having  powder  bags  placed 
against  it  which  were  exploded  by  a  lighted 


DELHI 


403 


)  iiiiich  to 
enter  and 
st  natural 
ammed^n 
;  gathered 
if  British 
ing  of  its 
t  number 
t  to  have 
tt  did  not 
:tion,  and 
orst  men 
and  chil- 
tnutineers 
it  with  a 
were  the 
n.  They 
of  Delhi 
eir  power 
led  tliem- 
ble  to  dis- 
vn,  would 
the  pride 
iny  broke 
tn  ninety 
iming  the 

tider  Gen- 
ralls  near 
the  shot 
:  gate  was 
ll^s  placed 
a  lighted 


fuse.     Those  engaged  in  this  work  well  knew 
that  many  of  them  must  give  their  lives  in  their 
devotion  to  their  duty,  but  they  did  not  hesitate 
for  a  moment.     The  gate  was  blown  open  and 
the  remnant  of  brave  columns  marched  into  the 
city.     There  was  still  much  terrible  fighting  to 
be  done,  but  in  two  weeks  more,  on  the  twenty- 
third  of  September,  the  final  struggle  was  made 
and  the  English  flag  floated  over  the  great  forf 
but  General  Nicholson  fell  in  the  moment  of 
victory.     No  loyalty  to  the  British  crown  was 
ever  appreciated  more  by  British  hearts  around 
the  globe  than  that  displayed  in  India  in  restor- 
ing British  sovereignty  in  that  far-off  land. 


iifj 


^1 


l|.      'I 
i'    _ 


•  X 


■'ie^i4*»«*-iKtvwF*«»Lsv®*..t  J . 


>  =  \.l       I 


XXXII 


AGRA 


ui 


mi^ 


AGRA  was  visited  while  going  from  Bombay 
to  Calcutta ;  and  a  night  ride  from  Agra 
brought  the  writer  in  the  early  morning  to 
Cawnpore.  The  name  Agra  is  applied  to  the 
province  and  district,  or  zillah,  and  to  the  city. 
The  city  is  the  capital  of  the  district  and  the 
province  of  the  same  name.  It  is  located  on 
the  right  bank  of  the  Jumna,  one  of  the  sacred 
rivers  of  India.  It  is  connected  by  railway  with 
all  the  principal  cities  of  the  country.  It  is 
about  one  hundred  and  twenty  miles  southeast  of 
Delhi  and  eight  hundred  and  forty  miles  north- 
west of  Calcutta.  Its  population,  including  its 
two  suburbs  and  the  garrison,  is  one  hundred 
and  sixty-five  thousand.  It  is  the  center  of  a 
large  trade  in  cotton,  sugar,  indigo,  salt,  and 
silks.  Formerly  Agra  was  the  provincial  capi- 
tal, but  since  the  mutiny  the  seat  of  govern- 
ment has  been  in  Allahabad.  The  city  is  about 
four  miles  long  and  three  wide,  and  it  sweeps  in 
a  graceful  semi-circle  along  the  banks  of  the 
river.  The  houses,  for  the  most  part,  are  of  the 
red  sandstone  of  the  neighboring  hills.  The 
principal  street  intersects  the  town  from  north 
to  south.  This  street  is  spacious  and  clean,  but 
404 


ACxRA 


405 


Other  streets  which  run  along  the  banks  of  the 
river  are  irregular  and  narrow.  The  ancient 
walls  embrace  an  area  of  nearly  eleven  square 
miles,  and  about  one  half  of  this  space  is  now 
occupied. 


V 


<r 


The  Mogul  Capital.— The  very  early  his- 
tory of  the  city  is  lost  in  obscurity ;  not  until 
the  Mohamniedan  period  is  anything  certainly 
known.  The  first  Mohammedan  dynasty  to 
choose  Agra  as  a  residence  was  the  house  of 
Lodi.  Previous  to  that  time  Agrp  was  the  dis- 
trict of  Biana.  In  the  sixteenth  century  Akbar 
fortified  and  embellished  the  city,  and  in  1658 
the  capital  was  removed  to  Delhi.  There  are 
remains  of  ancient  gardens,  belonging,  it  is  said, 
to  the  palaces  of  the  Lodis  ;  but  much  of  doubt 
characterizes  all  the  relations  of  this  dynasty  to 
the  city.  It  is  certain  that  the  walls  and  the 
magazine  to  the  south  of  the  water-gate  be- 
longed to  the  Akbar  audience  hall. 

To  Shah  Jehan  belongs  the  greatest  credit  for 
the  architectural  glory  of  Agra.  He  resided 
here  from  1632  to  1637,  and  he  built  the  Pearl 
Mosque,  the  Cathedral  Mosque,  and  the  glorious 
Taj.  Finally,  he  was  deposed  by  his  son,  Au- 
rangzib,  who,  as  already  stated,  removed  the 
seat  of  government  to  Delhi.  The  only  favor 
which  Shah  Jehan  asked  of  his  unnatural  son 
was,  that  the  prison  cell  should  be  so  placed  that 
the  royal  prisoner  could  look  out  on  the  Taj, 
beneath  whose  dome  the  dust  of  his  beloved 
wife  reposed;   and   that  favor,  it  is   said,  was 


\  I*. 


lii 


¥ 


■I 


1  ' 


i 


J 


406 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


^u.^^' 


r/ 


■'  V/i 


'U  ■  < 


I,  1  (V 


granted.  In  1764  A<^ra  was  taken  by  Suraj 
Mall  with  an  army  of  Jats,  and  the  city  was 
n^reatly  injured.  In  1770  it  was  captured  by 
the  Mahrattas,  who  in  turn  were  expelled  in 
1774;  thus  it  was  held  by  various  native  rulers, 
but  at  times  anarchy  prevailed  throughout  the 
city.  Finally  it  was  taken  by  Lord  Lake,  on 
October  17,  1803.  Several  native  regiments 
joined  the  English  forces  at  that  time,  and 
since  that  time  Agra  has  been  a  possession  of 
the  British. 

It  had  its  part  in  the  terrible  tragedy  of  the 
Sepoy  mutiny.  Two  companies  mutinied  on 
May  30,  1857,  that  had  been  sent  to  Muttra  to 
bring  the  treasure  there  into  Agra,  but  they  de- 
serted the  British  and  marched  off  to  Delhi. 
Other  regiments  mutinied  soon  afterward,  but 
on  July  5  they  were  attacked  by  the  soldiers  who 
had  remained  loyal.  The  rebels  were  well 
posted  and  fought  with  desperation,  and  it  was 
no  small  task  to  reduce  them  to  obedience.  In 
the  effort  many  Europeans  were  murdered,  the 
cantonments  were  burned,  and  important  rec- 
ords were  destroyed.  Finally  six  thousand  men, 
women,  and  children,  of  whom  one  thousand  five 
hundred  were  Hindus  and  Mohammedans,  were 
shut  up  in  the  fort  of  Agra.  Among  these  were 
Catholic  priests  and  nuns  from  France  and  Rome 
and  Protestant  missionaries  from  America,  as 
well  as  a  company  of  American  showmen  and 
travelers.  After  prolonged  delays  and  great 
anxieties,  Agra  was  relieved  from  all  danger, 
and  in  February,  1858,  the  seat  of  government 


AGRA 


y  Suraj 
ity  was 
ired  by 
illcd  ill 
2  rulers, 
out  the 
^ake,  on 
[i^iments 
lie,  and 
ssioii  of 

^  of  the 
lied  on 
ittra  to 
hey  de- 
Delhi, 
rd,  but 
^rs  who 
re  well 
it  was 
ce.  Ill 
ed,  the 
nt  rec- 
id  men, 
ind  five 
s,  were 
5e  were 
1  Rome 
ica,  as 
en  and 
i  great 
danger, 
rnment 


of  the  northwest  provinces  v» 
ready  indicated,  to  Allahabad. 


407 
removed,  as  al- 


!(: 


The  Taj  Mahal. — All  tourists  are  disposed 
to  go  as  soon  as  possible  to  see  the  Taj  Mahal. 
This  is  the  tomb  of  the  wife  of  the  Emperor 
Shah  Jehan.  The  word  taj  means  a  diadem, 
or  crown ;  it  is  used  of  a  tall  cap  worn  by  Mo- 
hammedan dervishes.  The  word  is  applied  to 
this  mausoleum  because  its  dome  is  shaped  like 
this  small  cap,  and  so  is  a  crown,  or  diadem ;  and 
also  because  it  is  the  tomb  of  the  chief  wife  of 
the  great  Shah.  Its  full  name  is,  Taj  bibi  kc 
Roza,  "The  Crown  Lady's  Tomb."  It  is,  with- 
out doubt,  the  most  interesting  building  in  In- 
dia, and  it  is  claimed  by  many  that  it  is  the 
most  beautiful  building,  certainly  the  most  beau- 
tiful mausoleum,  in  the  whole  world.  I  had  the 
good  fortune  to  see  it  in  bright  moonlight,  the 
next  day  in  clear  morning  sunshine,  and  after- 
ward in  the  soft  light  of  the  evening.  It  is  al- 
most impossible  to  exaggerac  the  completeness 
of  its  symmetry  or  the  harmony  of  the  materials 
of  which  it  is  composed.  It  is  in  a  gaideii 
wl.ich  is  itself  worthy  of  consideration  because 
of  its  plants,  flowers,  shrubs,  and  lakes,  and  the 
perfection  in  which  it  is  kept. 

The  enclosure,  including  the  gardens  and 
outer  courts,  measures  nearly  two  thousand  feet 
long  by  more  than  one  thousand  wide.  The 
principal  gateway  is  a  massive  and  graceful 
structure.  It  leads  into  the  gardens,  and  from 
it  along  the  marble  canal,  bordered  by  cypress 


I  ' 


\ 


:  ( 


I  i.l ' 


I. 

\ii  ] 
I' » 

f>i 


'fVl 


'!i» 


I'f 


* 


ilil 


I. ' 


t; 


408 


AKOUND   TIIK    WORM) 


trees,  one  walks  to  the  beautiful  tomb.  Tlie 
loinl)  stands  on  a  raised  platform  of  marble, 
wliieh  rests  on  a  terrace  of  red  sandstone.  This 
platform  is  eighteen  feet  hij^h  and  three  hundred 
and  thirteen  feet  square,  and  at  each  corner  there 
rise  graceful  minarets  one  hundred  and  thirty- 
three  feet  high.  Probably  there  are  no  mina- 
rets in  India,  or  in  any  other  country,  more  ex- 
quisite in  their  proportions  than  these. 

In  the  center  of  the  marble  platform  of  which 
I  have  spoken,  stands  the  mausoleum  itself,  an 
irregular  octagon  of  one  hundred  and  eighty- 
six  feet  in  length,  the  corners  being  cut  off  to 
the  extent  of  thirty-three  feet  and  nine  inches. 
The  principal  dome  is  fifty-eight  feet  in  diam- 
eter and  eighty  feet  in  height.  Under  this 
there  is  an  enclosure  formed  by  the  screen  of 
pierced  work  of  white  marble.  It  would  be 
difficult  to  imagine  anything  more  beautiful 
than  is  this  screen.  In  a  country  where  the 
light  was  less  bright  such  a  screen  might  defeat 
its  object,  but  here  it  simply  softens  the  light 
and  beautifies  all  within  the  enclosure.  Mr. 
Fergusson,  in  his  history  of  architecture,  calls 
this  screen  the  "  chcf-ci'' oetivve  of  elegance  in  In- 
dian art."  Within  this  screen  are  the  tombs  of 
the  Emperor  Shah  Jehan  and  his  favorite  wife. 
The  bodies  rest  in  a  vault  level  with  the  surface 
of  the  ground,  and  under  plainer  tombstones 
exactly  beneath  those  which  are  seen  in  the 
wall  above.  This  screen,  of  which  I  have 
spoken,  beautifully  tempers  the  glare  of  the 
bright  light  in  a  building  composed  of    white 


AGRA 


409 


The 


marble.  It  would  be  impossible  to  cxa.i^j^erate 
the  chastened  beauty  of  that  central  chamber. 
The  building  and  the  warden  are  e(iually  well 
adapted  to  the  requirements  of  a  pleasure  palace 
and  to  the  needs  of  an  impressive  sepulchre. 

Here  was  one  of  the  fniest  examples  of  the 
inlaying  of  precious  stones  which  ^^raced  the 
architectural  style  of  the  period.  All  the  span- 
drils  of  the  Taj  and  all  the  more  important  an- 
gles were  inlaid  with  precious  stones  ;  these  were 
in  places  combined  with  wreaths,  scrolls,  and 
frets,  the  beauty  of  the  desi^u^n  bein.i,'-  matched 
by  the  harmony  in  color.  All  these  brilliant 
colors  were  chastened  by  the  pure  white  marble 
in  which  they  were  laid.  The  jewels  have  been 
removed  to  ICngland  and  their  place  filled  with 
glass  of  similar  colors;  it  would  have  been  im- 
possible, except  by  keeping  a  large  force  of  sol- 
diers always  on  guard,  to  protect  jewels  of  so 
great  value.  Probably  in  no  case  in  the  history 
of  the  world  were  more  beautiful  styles  of  orna- 
ment so  well  adapted  to  the  characteristics  of 
the  architecture  of  which  they  formed  a  part. 
The  exquisite  taste  displayed  is  as  remarkable  as 
the  conception  of  the  relation  between  the  archi- 
tecture and  its  ornamentation,  both  reflecting 
great  credit  on  the  judgment  of  the  architects 
of  the  period.  There  has  been  much  discussion 
as  to  who  was  the  principal  architect,  and  it  is 
generally  agreed  that  that  honor  belongs  to 
Austin  de  Bordeaux,  who  was  known  to  have 
been  then  in  the  employment  of  the  emperor. 

This  great  building  was  commenced,  it  is  said, 


•j; 


I : 


Ml 


Mi 


'i 


n 


J'l'' 

I'      I'      • 


1.^ 


t  I 


i  i. 


■iii 


h'    vj. 


410 


AROUND   THK    WORUD 


in  1630,  and  twenty  tlionsand  workmen  spent 
twenty  years  ni)()n  it  before  it  was  completed  ; 
tlins,  cheap  as  labor  then  was  in  India,  this  sn- 
perb  tomb  cost  at  least  fifteen,  perhaps  twenty, 
million  dollars. 

All  this  was  for  the  emperor's  favorite  wife, 
Arjimand  Bann  Begmn,  who  wasentitled  Mnmtaz 
Mahal,  literally,  the  "Chosen  of  the  Palace,"  or, 
accordinj^  to  a  freer  translation,  the  "  Pride  of  the 
Palace."  She  was  the  danj^hter  of  Asaf  Khan  ; 
her  ^grandfather  was  Mirza  Cihiyas,  a  Persian  who 
came  from  Teheran  to  seek  his  fortnne  in  India. 
He  speedily  rose  to  power  and  acqnired  the  title 
of  Itimadn  Donlah.  She  became  the  wife  of 
Shah  Jehan  in  1615;  she  bore  him  seven  chil- 
dren, and  died  at  the  time  of  the  birth  of  her 
eighth  child,  in  1629,  ^^  Bnrhanpnr,  in  the  Dec- 
can.  Her  body  was  b  ^ight  to  Agra  for  bnrial 
and  was  laid  in  the  •  'en  where  the  Taj  now 
stands,  nntil  this  mausoleum  was  completed. 
He  had  promised  to  erect  for  her  in  that  gar- 
den a  palace  whose  beauty  should  attract  the 
people  from  the  ends  of  the  earth.  In  his  grief 
over  her  sudden  death  his  plans  for  her  palace 
were  changed  so  as  to  create  this  superb  mau- 
soleum, and  its  beauty  now  attracts  visitors  from 
the  ends  of  the  earth.  This  glorious  Taj  is  a 
song  in  marble,  a  vision  of  beauty,  a  prophecy 
of  immortality !  It  will  live  forever  in  the  mem- 
ory as  last  seen  in  the  soft,  short  Indian  gloam- 
ing from  the  distance  of  more  than  a  mile  on 
the  other  side  of  the  Jumna. 

The  Taj  was  repaired  just  previous  to  the  visit 


AGKA 


411 


wliich  the  Prince  of  Wales  made  to  India.  The 
tomb  is  constrneted  of  brick  veneered  with 
marble,  and  much  of  this  veneerinj;  needed  to 
be  repaired  in  order  to  restore  the  building  to 
its  ori^niial  perfection.  Never  will  any  visitor 
forjret  the  impression  produced  n])on  him  by  the 
sni)erb  dome.  The  heij^dit  from  the  base  to  the 
top  of  this  dome  must  be  nearly  three  hundred 
feet,  and  it  .seems  to  float  in  the  air  rather  than 
to  rest  upon  the  ground.  A  remarkable  echo 
was  produced  by  repeating  a  few  lines  of  poetry 
as  I  stood  beneath  the  arched  roof  of  the  cupola. 
Throuo-h  this  dimly  lighted  vault  there  rolled 
the  soft  and  sweet  repetitions  of  the  words  wliich 
I  had  read  of  as  forming  the  inscription  on  the 
tomb,  and  which  I  pronounced:  "To  the  mem- 
ory of  an  undying  love,"  making  a  music  .so 
delicate  and  pathetic  as  to  touch  the  heart  and 
moisten  the  eye.  The  word  love  rolled  tremu- 
lously to  heaven;  softened  and  sweetened,  it 
came  back  to  earth ;  then  it  rolled  around  the 
walls,  and  then  ascended  again  to  heaven.  Still 
more  softly  and  sweetly  it  came  back  to  earth, 
giving  an  experience  never  before  known,  and 
perhaps  never  again  to  be  enjoyed.  Standing 
l)eneath  this  dome  and  over  the  tombs  where 
sleeps  the  royal  dust,  this  echo  assuredly  exer- 
cised a  weird  charm  and  became  a  thrilling  mys- 
tery. 

But  few  things  come  up  to  their  reputation. 
One  of  these  is  the  inland  sea  of  Japan,  another 
is  the  Alhambra,  in  Granada,  and  the  last  rnd 
greatest  is  the  Taj  in  Agra.     The  gateway  lead- 


4: 


)" 


f   ! 


il 


'■I 


'( 


412 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


<    I 


h>    I 


^ij  I'l 


iiig  to  so  superb  a  <^arden  and  so  glorious  a  mauso- 
leum would  itself  attract  attention.  Mr.  Fergus- 
son  calls  it  a  worthy  pendant  to  the  Taj  itself. 
It  is  made  of  red  sandstone,  inlaid  with  orna- 
ments and  inscriptions  from  the  Koran.  The 
stream  of  water  which  runs  the  whole  length  of 
the  garden,  from  the  entrance  gateway  to  the 
Taj,  adds  greatly  to  the  effect  of  the  entire  scene. 
In  it  the  Taj  is  mirrored  at  times,  and  the  rich 
foliage  gives  the  requisite  border  to  the  picture 
as  the  water  reflects  the  symmetrical  proportions 
of  the  superb  Taj.  One  cannot  help  but  admire 
the  love  which  led  Shah  Jehan  to  erect  this 
glorious  mausoleum  "  to  the  memory  of  an  un- 
dying love  "  ;  but  neither  can  one  help  think- 
ing of  his  various  other  wives  to  whom  he  gave 
the  cold  shoulder  by  his  utter  neglect.  Still  it 
will  ever  be  remarkable  that  such  a  mausoleum 
was  erected  and  such  an  inscription  carved  by  a 
Mohammedan  ruler  to  any  woman ;  and  building 
it  for  her,  it  afterward  became  his  own  mauso- 
leum, so  that  his  unselfish  love  gives  himself, 
with  his  wife,  undying  fame. 


:M, 


mi  \ 


The  Fort  and  Other  Buildings. — There 
are  many  other  objects  of  interest  in  Agra.  The 
fort  must  always  claim  the  attention  of  every 
tourist.  It  justifies  the  criticism  that  the  "Mo- 
guls designed  like  Titans  and  finished  like  j-_-v- 
elers."  This  building  stands  on  the  right  bank 
of  the  Jumna.  The  walls  are  very  high  and 
most  imposing  in  appe  ^rance,  but  they  would  be 
powerless  as  a  defense  against  the  methods  of 


AGRA 


413 


a  mauso- 
,  Fergus- 
aj  itself, 
th  orna- 
m.     The 
length  of 
y  to  the 
ire  scene, 
the  rich 
e  picture 
oportions 
it  admire 
irect  this 
of  an  nn- 
:lp  think- 
n  he  gave 
.     Still  it 
lansoleum 
rved  by  a 
d  building 
NW  mauso- 
;s  himself, 


^S. — There 
.gra.  The 
1  of  every 
t  the  "Me- 
ld like  ^c-v- 
right  bank 
r  high  and 
y  would  be 
methods  of 


modern  warfare.  Within  the  fort  are  many 
most  beautiful  buildings  ;  notably  among  these 
are  the  "  Diwan-i-Am  "  (Judgment  Hall) ;  the 
"  Moti  Musjid  "  (Pearl  Mosque) ;  the  "  Diwan-i- 
Khas  "  (Audience  Hall);  the  "  Jchangir  Mahal  " 
(Palace  of  Jehangir.) 

The  Moti  Musjid,  as  the  name  implies,  is  a 
gem  or  pearl.  It  certainly  is  one  of  the  most 
perfect  buildings  of  its  class  to  be  found  in  the 
world,  and  its  cost  was  enormous.  Jt  was  built 
by  Shah  Jehan.  The  photographs  of  it,  secured 
at  the  time,  delight  the  eye  and  refresh  the 
memory.  The  Diwan-i-Am  was  built  by  Ak- 
bar,  according  to  the  general  opinion,  although 
some  writers  attribute  it  also  to  Shah  Jehan. 
This  building  is  two  hundred  and  one  feet  lo'.ig 
from  north  to  south,  and  the  roof  is  supported  by 
graceful  colums  of  red  sandstone.  The  Diwan- 
i-Khas  is  a  miracle  of  beauty  ;  the  floors,  inlaid 
work  on  white  marble,  are  a  never-ceasing  source 
of  delight.  From  this  building  the  emperor 
could  look  over  the  broad  river  to  the  gardens 
and  buildings  on  the  opposite  shore.  The  Je- 
hangir Mahal  is  a  red  stone  palace  built  by 
Jehangir  aft^  .  the  death  of  Akbar.  The  masonic 
symbol  of  the  double  triangle  inlaid  in  white 
marble  is  hce  frequently  seen  and  has  attracted 
great  attention.  The  Jumna  Musjid  faces  the 
Delhi  p-ate  of  the  fort.  This  l)uildino-  is  maikcd 
by  all  the  vigor  and  originality  of  the  early 
Mogul  style  ;  this  also  was  constructed  by  the 
Emperor  Shah  Jehan,  as  the  inscription  over  the 
main  archway  shows.     He  built  it  in  the  name 


'iV 


>' 


.  ( 


'i 


■\i 


isJ  I  > 


414 


AROUND   THE   WORI.D 


|i  .     I'l 


1 , 1: 1 


1 


<•'.■?; 


V'.  :''''' I  ■ 


'/'. 


II 


r  I'i 


of  his  daughter  Jelianara,  who  shared  her  father's 
captivity  after  he  was  deposed  by  his  son  Auraiig- 
zib. 

There  are  in  Agra  a  number  of  churches  and 
other  public  buildings  worthy  of  attention  ;  the 
Agra  College,  the  Government  College,  and  the 
Medical  College,  are  all  interesting  buildings 
and  are  suggestive  of  the  progress  making  in 
modern  science.  The  Promenade  Gardens, 
ki.own  as  the  Asafa  Bagh,  are  also  attractive  to 
visitors  and  to  the  people  of  the  town.  One  of 
the  finest  buildings  in  Agra  is  the  tomb  of  Iti- 
madu  Doulah,  and  there  are  a  number  of  tombs 
in  this  magnificent  mausoleum.  Akbar's  tomb 
is  at  Secundra,  a  distance  of  about  four  miles 
from  Agra.  The  gateway  to  this  tomb  is  mag- 
nificent to  an  unusual  degree,  even  in  the  midst 
of  such  superb  structures  as  one  sees  in  Agra. 

Perhaps,  however,  no  building  in  the  town 
interested  me  more  than  the  Agra  Havelock 
Baptist  Chapel.  The  pastor  is  Rev.  G.  R.  M. 
Roche.  There  is  vigorous  church  work  going 
on  in  connection  with  this  earnest  body  of  Chris- 
tians. They  have  three  services  every  Sunday, 
and  a  service  of  some  sort  every  day  in  the 
week.  It  is  very  fitting  that  they  should  honor 
the  name  of  Havelock  in  connection  with  this 
church. 

Most  travelers  go  also  to  Futtehpore  Sikri, 
which  is  about  twenty-two  miles  from  Agra  on 
the  Jeypore  road.  This  was  formerly  the  Wind- 
sor of  Agra,  and  was  a  favorite  residence  of  Ak- 
bar.     There  are  buildings  here  of  great  historic 


i'.  if 


AGRA 


415 


r  father's 
Auraiijr- 

:lies  and 
on  ;  the 
and  the 
uildings 
king  in 
wardens, 
LCtive  to 

One  of 
)  of  Iti- 
f  tombs 
's  tomb 
r  miles 
is  mag- 
e  midst 
igi-a. 
e  town 
ivelock 

R.  M. 

:  going 

F  Chris- 

kinday, 

in  the 

honor 
th  this 


interest  and  intrinsic  beanty ;  there  is  no  end  to 
the  beautifnl  bnildings  that  these  Mogul  em- 
perors have  erected.  The  royal  apartments  in 
the  palace  of  Akbar,  the  grotto  of  glass,  the  bath- 
rooms, the  courts,  chambers,  fountains,  pavilions, 
reception  halls,  throne-rooms,  all  of  marble  and 
mosaic — beauty,  delicacy,  taste,  and  wealth  are 
here  displayed  to  such  a  degree  that  the  most 
matter-of-fact  description  would  seem  to  be  an 
unpardonable  exaggeration.  All  this  will  apply 
to  the  tomb  of  Akbar  at  Secundra.  Were  it 
not  that  this  building  is  only  one  of  many  other 
buildings,  it  would  be  itself  a  wonder  almost 
beyond  description ;  but  the  greater  charm  and 
loveliness  of  the  Taj  rob  this  magnificent  tomb 
of  some  of  its  impression  of  beauty  and  glory.  It 
was  from  Uiis  grand  architectural  structure  that 
the  Koh-i-noor  was  at  one  time  taken.  One 
scarcely  knows  where  to  stop,  if  his  supply  of 
adjectives  be  not  exhausted,  in  any  attempt  to 
describe  the  exquisite  taste,  varied  beauty,  splen- 
dor, and  magnificence  of  these  Mogul  structures. 


' 


v:i' 


u 


1:^ 


Sikri, 
gra  on 

Wind- 
of  Ak- 
listoric 


n 


H 


XXXIII 


WKSTp:RN    INDIA 


T 


'■  111 


I    ' 


WE  must   hasten   to  Bombay,  and   on  the 
way  visit  the  next  town  in  our  itiner- 
ary, which  is  Ajnicre. 

AjMHRK. — This  city  has  a  population  of  about 
seventy  thousand,  and  is  the  capital  of  the  Brit- 
ish district  in  Rajputana ;  it  is  also  the  head- 
quarters of  the  Rajputana  railway  and  is  the 
junction  for  the  military  station  of  Nusscerabad. 
The  city  is  surrounded  l3y  a  stone  wall  with  five 
gateways,  and  is  a  place  of  great  antiquity  and 
celebrity.  The  city  ii.  elf  lies  in  a  plain,  and  on 
a  hill  rising  abruptly  from  it  is  the  celebrated 
rocky  and  picturc;;quc  Taragarh  Hill,  three 
tliousand  feet  above  the  sea.  The  fort  on  this 
hill,  so  advantageously  located,  dominates  the 
extensive  plain. 

The  city  is  marked  by  its  Hindu  character- 
istics and  associations.  Like  Jeyporc,  it  once 
was  the  capital  of  a  clan  of  rajputs,  but  now  no 
native  rajah  is  here  and  there  is  not  even  the 
semblance  of  a  court.  The  city  contains  many 
fine  houses  and  is  evidently  prosperous,  although 
not  perhaps  to  the  same  degree  as  Jeypore.  Its 
more  recent  origin  is  traced  to  A.  d.  145,  when  it 
416 


.  r 


WKvSTKRN   INDIA 


417 


on  the 
itiner- 


)f  about 
lie  Brit- 
e  head- 
is  the 
?crabacl. 
'ith  five 
lity  and 
and  on 
ebrated 
I,  three 
on  tliis 
ites  the 

aracter- 
it  once 
now  no 
ven  the 
s  many 
Ithoncyh 
re.  Its 
when  it 


was  supposed  to  be  founded  by  one  of  the  Cho- 
tan  kings.  Strange  tlioughts  come  to  a  tourist 
as  he  walks  the  streets  of  a  city  that  was  okl 
h)ng  before  the  Christian  era,  and  that  was  built, 
probably,  by  the  ancient  Aryans.  But  the  Hin- 
dus early  acquired  the  characteristics  by  which 
they  are  known  in  later  history. 

This  tower  and  city  were  long  the  objects  of 
temptation  to  all  the  invaders  in  this  part  of 
India.  When  the  Afghans  invaded  India  at 
the  end  of  the  twelfth  century,  they  directed  all 
their  ambition  to  the  capture  of  this  fort,  and 
they  finally  succeeded.  The  rajputs,  however, 
retook  the  city  and  reoccupied  the  fort,  but  it 
was  captured  again  by  the  Moguls,  and  in  the 
seventeenth  century  it  became  an  imperial  resi- 
dence of  the  invaders.  When  the  time  came 
for  the  overthrow  of  the  Mogul  empire  the  raj- 
puts again  captured  their  hill  and  fort.  The 
fierce  Mahrattas,  however,  strove  to  wrest  it 
from  its  rajputanian  owners,  and  they  were  suc- 
cessful ;  but  on  June  25,  1818,  the  fortress,  with 
the  city  of  Ajmere,  was  ceded  to  the  British  by 
the  Mahratta  chief  Sindhia,  who  was  obliged  to 
yield  to  the  superior  power  of  the  British  arms. 
It  seems  to  be  the  fate  of  all  these  warring 
tribes  eventually  to  submit  to  the  resistless 
march  of  the  A?iglo-Saxons. 

The  Akbar  palace  is  outside  the  city  proper, 
and  not  far  from  the  railway  station.  The  Resi- 
dency is  on  the  brink  of  a  beautiful  artificial 
lake  called  Ana  Saugar,  which  was  constructed 
by   Rajah  Ana  as  early  as  the  middle  of   the 

2B 


wsm 


wmmmm 


418 


AROUND   TlIK   WORLD 


ami] 

47'   1 
I  i  it  I 


s 


i    ( 


•1      ^    r 

1: 

i' 

\ 

1 

J  i 

1 

B:i^.M 


<l 


eleventh  century.  On  the  enihanknicnt,  that 
great  emperor,  Shah  Jelian,  erected  a  noble  range 
of  marble  pavilionii.  The  central  pavilion  was 
often  used  by  him  as  a  place  of  repose,  and  it 
has  now  been  restored  at  great  cost.  Flying 
foxes  are  often  seen  hanging  in  the  trees  which 
stand  on  the  embankment. 

One  of  the  great  sights  in  Ajmere  is  the  Dar- 
gali  Bagli,  or  "Garden  of  Splendor."  It  is  an 
object  of  veneration  to  Hindus  and  IMohamnied- 
ans  alike.  It  is  the  burial  place  of  a  saint 
of  some  sort  who  came  to  Ajmere,  it  is  said, 
in  A.  D.  1235.  This  saint  had  the  remarkable 
name  of  Aftab-i-Mulk-i-hind.  This  is  not  even 
half  his  name,  the  other  part  is  almost  unspcll- 
able  and  unpronounceable.  He  came  from  the 
city  of  Sanjar  in  Persia.  Many  legends  are  re- 
lated of  this  saint  and  of  his  strange  habits  of 
life.  No  one  is  allov^^ed  to  enter  the  Dargah 
Bagh  without  putting  woolen  socks  over  his 
shoes.  Among  the  buildings  connected  with 
the  Dargah  Bagh  is  the  partially  rained  mosque 
erected  by  Akbar,  and  another  mosque  of  white 
marble,  the  gift  of  Shah  Jehan.  There  is  still 
another  mosque  known  as  Arhai-din-ka-Jompra, 
meaning  the  "  Hut  of  two  and  a  half  days,"  from 
the  tradition  that  it  was  built  in  two  and  a  half 
days.  Tliis  is  supposed  to  have  been  bailt 
about  1200,  from  the  materials  of  a  Jain  tem- 
ple. Modern  architects  who  have  given  the 
matter  careful  study,  believe  that  it  was  built 
by  the  architect  who  erected  the  Kutub  Mosque 
near  Delhi,  and    it  is  believed  to  rank  as  one 


WKSTKRN    INDIA 


419 


nt,  that 
le  range 
lion  was 
,  and  it 
Flying 
s  wliicli 


:he  Dar- 
It  is  an 
aninied- 
a    vSaint 

is  said, 
larkable 
lot  even 
nnspcll- 
roni  the 
>  are  re- 
labits  of 
Dargah 
)ver  liis 
k\  with 
mosque 
>f  white 
t  is  still 
Jonipra, 
s,"  from 
d  a  half 
:n  built 
tin  tem- 
ven  the 
as  built 
Mosque 

as  one 


of  the  finest  specimens  of   early  Mohammedan 
architecture. 

Near  the  railway  station  are  extensive  work- 
shops in  which  many  thousands  of  Hindu  and 
Mohammedan  workmen  are  employed,  Ajmere 
being  the  headquarters  of  seventeen  hundred 
miles  of  what  is  called  the  meter-gauge  railway. 
A  day  can  be  thoroughly  well  spent  in  this  very 
old  and  equally  interesting  city.  It  is  difficult 
to  know  how  to  compress  all  that  one  would 
like  to  say  in  describing  a  visit  of  part  of  a  day 
between  two  trains  within  and  without  the  walls 
of  this  old  and  famous  rajput  capital. 

Ahmedabad. — Before  reaching  Bombay  we 
must  stop  for  a  little  time  at  least  to  visit  Ahme- 
dabad, the  ancient  capital  of  the  sultans  of 
Guzert.t.  This  is  the  second  city  in  the  Bom- 
bay Presidency.  It  was  the  stronghold  of  the 
Northern  Jains,  and  in  the  latter  part  of  the  six- 
teenth century  was  one  of  the  largest  cities  in 
Western  India.  Bishop  Hurst  remarks  that  "  in 
the  splendor  of  its  architecture  and  the  wealth 
of  its  citizens  it  is  the  Hindu  P'lorence."  With- 
out doubt  the  Mohammedan  conquerors  found 
here  a  city  of  great  wealth  and  beauty  ;  the  com- 
pleteness of  its  decorations  and  the  massiveness 
of  its  architecture  must  have  surpassed  anythirg 
that  they  had  previously  beheld.  Their  con- 
quest was  accomplished  about  the  end  of  the 
fourteenth  century  by  viceroys  of  the  emperor 
of  Delhi. 

They  immediately  began  to  convert  this  beau- 


H' 


;,!• 


420 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


f. 


tifnl  Hindu  city  into  a  Mohammedan  metropo- 
lis. Marble  and  other  building  materials  were 
brought  from  a  long  distance,  and  magnificent 
mosques,  palaces,  and  tombs  were  here  erected. 
A  citadel  and  fort  of  great  strength  were  built 
and  the  city  was  laid  out  in  broad  streets.  Mer- 
chants, manufacturers,  and  skillful  craftsmen 
under  Ahmad  Shah  made  Ahmedabad  a  center 
of  trade  and  of  manufacture.  During  the  re- 
mainder of  the  fifteenth  century  this  city  grew 
constantly  in  size,  wealth,  and  in  the  number 
and  splendor  of  its  public  buildings.  But  after 
the  reign  of  Sultan  Mohammed  Begada  the  for- 
tunes of  Ahmedabad  began  to  decline. 

The  Portuguese  crippled  its  trade  by  their  vig- 
orous competition,  and  the  quarrels  of  the  tur- 
bulent nobles  constantly  interfered  with  the  suc- 
cess of  the  city  in  business  and  in  its  own  ex- 
pansion and  ornamentation.  Then  came  the 
great  Akbar  in  1572,  called  in  by  a  party  of  the 
Guzerat  nobles,  and  under  him,  as  we  have  seen, 
Ahmedabad  became  a  province  of  the  Mogul 
emperor.  It  soon  became  the  greatest  city  in 
India  for  rich  silks  and  curiously  wrought  gold 
cloth  in  which  were  figures  of  flowers  and  birds 
and  other  curious  designs.  But  the  Mogul 
nobles  experienced  internal  disorders  which 
weakened  them  as  it  weakened  their  predeces- 
sors, and  the  town  was  finally  pillaged  by  the 
Mahrattas. 

In  1780,  after  a  gallant  assault,  it  was  taken 
by  the  English,  but  as  the  result  of  certain 
treaty  arrangements  it  was  restored  to  the  Mah- 


Hi  '  !       1! 


WESTERN    INDIA 


421 


H 


rattas,  and  remained  in  their  power  until  1818 
when,  on  the  overtlirow  of  the  Pesliwa's  jrov- 
ernnient,  it  onee  more  eame  into  the  hands  of 
the  British.  It  is  now  a  city  of  about  one  hun- 
dred and  fifty  thousand  inhabitants  ;  it  stands 
on  the  left  bank  of  the  Sabarmati  River,  which 
skirts  its  western  wall.  Its  water  supply  is 
taken  from  wells  sunk  in  the  bed  of  the  river. 

All  travelers  should  make  an  especial  effort 
to  visit  this  remarkable  city.  Here,  as  seldom 
in  India  or  any  other  country,  the  old  and  the 
new  lie  side  by  side.  In  this  respect  this  city  is 
like  what  Montreal  and  Quebec  were  a  <;enera- 
tion  aj^o,  when  the  old  French  styles  of  streets 
and  buildini^s  lay  in  close  proximity  to  modern 
British  examples  of  both.  So  in  this  Indian 
city  the  British  ideas  have  broadened  some  of 
the  streets  and  have  given  an  air  of  cleanliness 
and  prosperity  to  sections  of  the  city ;  but  evi- 
dences of  the  old  Hindu  and  Mohannnedan  civ- 
ilizations still  exist. 

A  strange  feature  of  many  of  the  streets  is 
the  "  Jc.ina  feeding-places  for  birds."  These  are 
extremely  picturesque,  being  richly  ornamented 
with  carving  and  often  gay  with  bright  colors. 
The  houses  in  many  of  the  streets  are  also  richly 
ornamented  with  wood  carving. 

It  is  fitting  that  we  should  look  at  some  of 
the  famous  places  in  this  city,  but  we  can  only 
glance  at  their  many  charms,  as  we  must  resume 
our  journey.  The  Jumma  Musjid,  or  principal 
mosque,  is  near  the  center  of  the  city.  It  was 
built  by  Sultan  Ahmad  I.,  in   1424.     Mr.  Fer- 


1 

1  1 


/  ■ 


! 


I     <l 


422 


AROUND   TIIK    WORLD 


J-'v> 


i\\' 


■..,         , 


\,.:    A 


ji^iissoii  calls  it  "one  of  the  most  beautiful 
inosqucs  in  the  East."  Knibedded  in  the  pave- 
ment on  the  threshold  lies  a  black  slab,  which 
is  supposed  to  be  a  Jain  idol  turned  upside  down, 
that  on  it  the  faithful  mij^ht  tread.  Near  it  is 
a  white  marble  crescent  on  which  the  imam 
stands  while  he  prays.  There  is  a  gallery  in 
which  the  women  of  the  royal  family,  as  it  is 
supposed,  met  to  worship.  Its  roof  is  supported 
by  two  hundred  and  sixty  columns,  and  it  has 
fifteen  cupolas  surrounded  by  galleries ;  these 
have  perforated  stone  screens  of  exquisite  beauty 
and  so  designed  as  to  exclude  the  glare  of  the 
sun  and  admit  simply  a  soft  and  chastened  light. 
On  marble  slabs,  and  in  other  parts  of  the 
mosque,  are  Arabic  inscriptions  from  the  Koran, 
some  of  which  would  not  be  inappropriate  in 
any  of  our  Christian  churches. 

The  mausoleum  of  Sultan  Ahmad  is  ap- 
proached by  a  tower  in  the  east  wall  of  the 
Musjid.  It  is  a  massive  building,  enclosing 
several  white  marble  tombs.  Its  windows  are 
of  perforated  stone  work,  and  its  central  cham- 
ber, which  is  thirty-six  feet  square,  is  superbly 
paved  with  marble  of  different  colors.  A  few 
yards  to  the  east  and  across  the  street  are  the 
tombs  of  the  queens  of  Ahmad  Shah.  This 
enclosure  is  entered  by  a  lofty  gateway.  In  the 
center  of  the  rectangular  court  are  eight  large 
and  several  small  cenotaphs.  This  building  is 
one  of  the  finest  in  this  remarkable  city. 


J    II 


Tombs  and  MOvSQUKS. — Rrni  Spiri's  mosque 


WESTERN   INDIA 


423 


and  toiiil)  sonic  wonld  say  arc  the  most  bcanti- 
fnl  nionnnicnts  in  Alnnedabad.  Slic  was  the 
wife  of  a  son  of  Ahmad  Shah,  and  tliis  mosqne 
and  tomb  were  completed  in  143 1,  nnder  her 
own  direction  and,  as  some  believe,  according; 
to  her  own  desij^n.  The  two  minarets  arc  al)ont 
fifty  feet  high  and  their  fonr  compartments  taper 
to  the  top.  They  have  zones  of  snperb  Ilindn 
work,  reachinf^  from  the  pedestal  to  the  topmost 
gallery. 

Fine  as  all  the  buildings  and  monnmcnts  are 
of  which  I  have  spoken,  perhaps  the  finest  of  all 
is  the  mosqne  of  Sidi  vSaid.  One  side  of  it  is  a 
part  of  the  wall  which  inclndes  the  jail  bnilding, 
but  the  jail  was  once  a  palace  occupied  by  nobles 
from  Delhi.  It  was  afterward  changed  into  an 
arsenal  and  finally  into  the  provincial  jail.  Two 
of  the  windows  are  filled  with  delicate  stone 
tracery,  representing  the  trunk  and  branches 
of  a  tree,  all  most  delicately  and  beautifully 
wrought.  These  vegetable  forms  are  most  skill- 
fully employed  in  these  windows.  One  is  filled 
with  indescribable  wonder  at  the  patience,  taste, 
and  skill  of  these  ancient  workmen.  Mr.  Fer- 
gnsson,  in  his  history  of  Indian  architecture,  in 
speaking  of  the  white  marble  tracery  of  the  trees, 
stems,  and  branches,  says  :  "  It  is  probably  more 
like  the  work  of  nature  than  any  other  architec- 
tural detail  that  has  yet  ever  been  designed  by 
the  best  architects  of  Greece  or  of  the  Middle 
Ages."  There  are  here  also  the  Fire  Temple  and 
Towers  of  Silence  of  the  Parsis. 

I  cannot  take  time  and  space  here  to  speak  in 


!    M 


424 


AROUND   TlIK    WOULD 


<^\ 


'      ii 


IJH;, 


y  1 


III 


detail  of  the  Dastiir  Kluur.s  mosque,  with  its 
wonderful  open  seieen  work;  or  the  Ilaibat 
Khan's  niosciue,  which  was  one  of  the  earliest 
tombs  to  comi)ine  Mohammedan  and  Hindu 
architectural  desij^ns ;  or  of  the  Tin  Darwazah, 
or  "  three  j^ateways  "  ;  or  the  mostjue  of  Malik 
vShaban  ;  or  of  several  other  moscjues,  tombs,  and 
other  monuments  and  public  buildinj>;s.  Let 
mc  ur<^c  aj^ain  all  tourists  to  India  to  arranj^e 
their  plans  so  as  to  spend  a  day,  if  i)ossible,  or 
at  least  half  a  day,  in  this  city  so  rich  in  historic 
interest  and  so  marvelous  in  architectural  skill 
and  beauty  ;  a  city  celebrated  still  for  its  handi- 
craftsmen, its  jroldsmiths,  jewelers,  brass  workers, 
stone  masons,  lacquer  workers,  its  figured  silks, 
its  silver  and  ^o\(\  tissues,  its  brocades,  the  finest 
produced  in  India,  and  its  gold  and  silver  lace 
and  thread. 

It  is  an  interesting  fact  that  the  Nagar-Seth, 
or  City  lyord  of  Ahmedabad,  is  the  titular  head 
of  all  the  guilds.  He  is  even  treated  by  the  gov- 
ernment as  a  representative,  and  is  the  highest 
personage  in  the  city.  Among  all  the  wonder- 
ful Indian  cities  Ahmedabad  must  always  hold 
.»,  prominent  place. 

Jkyporp:  or  Jaipur. — Of  Jcypore,  or  Jaipur,  I 
had  read  and  heard  considerable,  and  I  felt  un- 
usual curiosity  to  see  it.  It  is  in  many  respects 
a  unique  city.  It  is  generally  reputed  to  be  the 
finest  native  city  in  all  India.  It  is  the  capital 
of  the  State  of  the  same  name  in  Rajputana,  and 
is  the  largest  town  and  chief  commercial  center 


!■ 


i'l 


s»( 


WHSTl'KN    INIJIA 


425 


head 


of  Rajpiitana.  Its  population  is  put  down  at 
one  liiiiidrcd  and  forty  tlionsand.  It  is  the 
modern  capital,  while  Amber  is  the  ancient 
capital.  Jeypore  is  also  the  residence  of  the 
maharajah.  Mis  State  covers  fifteen  thousand 
square  miles,  and  there  is  under  him  a  popula- 
tion of  two  and  a  half  millions.  Jeypore  is  the 
headquarters  of   the  British  Resident. 

Some  affirm  that  it  is  not  oidy  the  most 
beautiful  native  city,  but  the  most  beautiful 
city,  native  or  Hritish,  in  India.  The  town  is 
about  two  miles  lon^  and  more  than  a  mile 
wide,  and  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  of  masonry 
with  strou}^  jrateways  and  lofty  towers.  It  is 
laid  out  in  rectangular  blocks  and  is  divided 
into  six  equal  parts  by  its  cross  streets.  The 
principal  street  is  at  least  one  hundred  and  fifty 
feet  wide,  and  runs  the  entire  lenj»^th  of  the  town. 

The  prince  who  rules  over  this  territory  is  a 
man  in  middle  life,  and  has  the  reputation  of 
being  intclli<^ent,  and  courteous  toward  all  vis- 
itors, and  especially  all  Americans.  He  exer- 
cises his  p^rcat  authority  over  his  people  with 
considerate  wisdom  and  with  pro<>ressive  ideas. 
He  has  traveled  in  many  countries  and  com- 
mands the  respect  of  the  British  authorities  as 
well  as  that  of  all  his  native  subjects.  His  palace 
is  in  the  center  of  the  city  and  is  said  to  cover 
about  one-seventh  of  the  total  area  of  the  town  ; 
with  its  gardens,  it  is  at  least  half  a  mile  long, 
and  is  eight  stories  high.  It  is  beautifully 
adorned  and  the  space  is  divided  into  courts, 
gardens,  and  public  halls;  there  is  also  a  public 


426 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


r  ■!'>>( 


'.  4' 


:;! 


mint,  observatory,  hospital,  and  a  larj>e  arstnal. 
Tlie  maharajah  supports  a  military  organization, 
which  in  time  of  necessity  will  be  at  the  service 
of  the  British  government  in  repelling  a  foreign 
invader,  or  in  snppressing  internal  disorders. 

This  town  has  a  modern  and  Occidental  look, 
and  in  this  respect  is  distingnished  fiom  many 
of  the  towns  in  India  and  other  parts  of  tlie 
Orient.  It  is  Enropean  rather  than  Oriental  ; 
the  people,  however,  are  still  Oriental,  althongh 
the  town  is  laid  ont  after  Knropea;'  models. 
They  are  still  Hindns,  thongh  living  in  a  city 
constiucted  and  governed  after  Christian  models. 
It  is  understood  that  the  maharajah  employs  able 
foreign  teachers  and  that  all  the  schools  are  free 
to  his  people.  The  maharajah's  college  has  made 
greater  progress  than  any  other  college  in  Raj- 
pntana.  It  is  a  remarkable  thing  that  it  has 
nov/  a  dailv  class  attendance  of  about  one  thou- 
sand.  It  is  affiliated  with  the  Calcutta  Univer- 
sity. There  are  schools  for  music,  for  the  fine 
arts,  and  others  devoted  to  the  primary  branches 
of  education,  such  as  arithmetic,  history,  and 
still  other  elementary  studies. 

This  prince  is  public  spirited  and  expends  his 
revenues  on  buildings  for  the  education  of  his 
people  rather  than  on  peacock  thrones,  as  did 
some  of  the  ea/  lier  Indian  princes.  This  city  in 
iJie  heart  of  India  is  thus  a  mixture  of  Oriertal 
conservatism  and  European  progress.  It  is  not 
a  little  noticeable  that  the  streets  of  the  town 
are  lighted  by  gas.  Everything  about  the  city 
gives  the  impression  of  newness  and  progress. 


t;  m 


WESTERN    INDIA 


427 


One  grows  weary  of  ruins  and  is  rather  glad  to 
visit  a  city  i'i  which  there  are  no  ruins.  The 
prosperity  f  l  this  vicinity  under  a  native  prince 
has  created  no  small  amount  of  discussion  as  to 
the  wisdom  of  British  rule  in  India. 

There  is  a  marked  contrast  between  this  city 
and  many  directly  under  British  control.  There 
poverty  abounds;  here  tliere  are  no  mud  'Mb-iiS 
and  no  marked  poverty.  Beggars  are  rue  lu 
Jeypore  and  people  are  comfortably  clotl\t.J  iri 
are  well  lodged.  It  must  be  understood,  how- 
ever, that  Jeypore  is  a  marked  exception  to  the 
cities  under  native  control.  j\Iany  other  poitions 
of  India,  over  which  native  princes  directly  rule, 
present  marked  exceptions  to  the  progress  and 
prosperity  seen  in  this  ciiy.  The  British  con- 
quered India  from  its  Mohammedan  invaders. 
These  Mohammedans  ruled  this  vast  country 
with  a  rod  of  iron,  and  the  rule  of  the  British, 
taken  as  a  whole,  is  a  vast  improvement  on  the 
government  of  the  maharajah  and  of  the  Moham- 
medans ;  but  there  is  no  desire  to  discredit  the 
marked  evidences  of  prosperity  seen  in  this  town 
uiider  a  native  prince. 

The  town  derives  its  name  from  the  famous 
Maharajah  Siwai  Jey  or  Jai  Sing  II.  The  bcoks 
tell  us  that  he  founded  it  in  1728,  and  this  late 
date  accounts  well  for  the  modern  air  of  the 
town.  The  fact  is  that  the  old  rajput  was  de- 
vel</ped  by  contact  with  British  ideals,  and  while 
a  natis'^  prince  here  rules,  his  prosperity  would 
be  les«  out  for  his  contact  with  British  and 
Christian  models  and  ideals.     The  town  is  sur- 


1.  il 


' 


428 


AROUND    THE    WORI^D 


«>    <    ,! 


rounded  on  all  sides  except  the  south  by  motived 
hills.  The  air  of  prosperit'"  seen  everywhere  is 
especially  marked  in  connection  with  the  native 
manufacture  of  jewelry  and  many  kinds  of  cloths. 
It  is  claimed  that  the  enamel  work  done  here, 
and  also  the  cutting-  and  setting:  of  <^arnets  and 
other  jewels,  are  the  best  of  their  kind  in  India. 

The  Diwan-i-Khas,  Private  Hall  of  Audience, 
is  built  entirely  of  white  marble,  and  is  remark- 
able for  its  simplicity  and  imposing  grandeur. 
All  the  gardens  are  noticeable  for  their  taste 
and  care.  The  Public  Gardens,  outside  the  city 
wall,  are  over  seventy  acres  in  extent,  and  cost 
nearly  two  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars. 
They  were  designed  by  a  British  officer,  and  are, 
without  doubt,  the  finest  gardens  in  India.  In 
these  gardens  there  is  a  statue  of  Lord  Mayo, 
and  in  the  center  of  the  garden  is  the  Albert 
Hall.  This  is  a  sumptuous  building,  whose 
corner-stone  was  laid  by  tlie  Prince  of  Wales 
in  1876.  The  Jantra,  or  Observatory,  is  the  lar- 
gest of  the  five  buildings  by  the  celebrated  royal 
astronomer,  Jey  vSing.  It  is  an  open  courtyard, 
and  contains  many  strange  and  even  fantastic 
instruments  invented  by  himself.  j\Iany  of  these 
are  now  out  of  repair,  and  it  is  not  possible  to 
say  with  certainty  for  what  purpose  he  intended 
that  they  should  be  employed. 

IVIany  tourists  make  a  visit  to  Amber,  the 
ancient  capital.  This  writer  did  not  have  time 
to  gratify  his  desire  to  see  that  ancient  town. 
It  is  about  four  miles  from  Jey  pore  and  is 
largely  inhabited  by  Hindu  fakirs.     The  maha- 


f 


fti 


1*  -A.-> 


WKSTKRN    INDIA 


429 


rajah  not  infrequently  furnishes  tourists  with 
elephants  to  enable  them  to  visit  this  town  and 
its  palace.  It  was  the  capital  of  Jeypore  until 
1728.  Permission  from  the  Resident  of  Jeypore 
is  necessary  in  order  to  visit  Amber.  IJishop 
Hurst  is  quoted  as  sayino;'  that  he  never  viewed 
a  scene  so  strikinj^ly  picturesque  and  beautiful 
as  the  gorgeous  palace  rising  from  the  margin 
of  the  lake.  All  visitors  speak  of  it  as  a  grand 
pile,  although  lacking  in  some  of  the  elements 
of  decoration  characteristic  of  Hindu  taste  and 
wealth.  The  rajah's  own  apartments  here  are 
characterized  by  great  splendor  and  by  lavish 
display  of  wealth.  It  was  a  matter  of  regret 
to  this  writer  that  he  could  not  visit  this  ancient, 
peculiarly  attractive,  and  beautiful  city. 

The  whole  territory  of  Rajputana  is  interest- 
ing to  an  unusual  degree.  The  people  are  more 
like  the  Aryan  conquerors  of  the  original  tribes 
than  are  any  other  of  the  Indian  tribes.  When 
the  IMohammedan  conquerors  from  Persia  in- 
vaded India,  they  found  tlie  rajputs  in  possession 
of  all  the  northwestern  portion  of  the  country. 
The  natives  called  the  country  Rajasthan,  the 
country  of  the  chiefs.  There  was  here,  at  one 
time,  stretching  from  the  valley  of  the  Indus  to 
tlie  Ganges,  a  confederacy  of  clans  similar,  as 
iushop  Hurst  remarks,  to  the  (iermans  in  the 
time  of  Cocsar  and  the  Scots  in  the  time  of 
Bruce.  Acquaintance  with  a  rajput  in  New 
York,  a  descendant  of  the  ancient  chief  Jey 
Sing,  gave  me  a  special  interest  in  visiting  this 
part  of  India,  and  especially  this  city  of  Jeypore. 


1 

A 


I 


n 


i< ' 


' 


b'ii    .' 


XXXIV 


^i':*   :     i'lj. 


BOMBAY 

WE  are  now  hastening  back  to  Bombay, 
and  the  time  is  approaching  when  the 
steamer  ninst  be  taken  and  India  b  )  left  behind. 
Most  delightfnl  has  been  the  sojonrn  of  even 
a  few  weeks  in  this  fascinating  country.  Many 
cities  have  been  passed  over,  however  great  was 
tlie  desire  to  see  them,  because  of  the  neces- 
sary limitation  in  time,  but  enough  was  seen  to 
gratify  a  long-cherished  desire  and  to  stimulate 
the  appetite  to  revisit  India.  The  whole  coun- 
try is  invested  with  a  historic  charm  and  a 
poetic  glamour.  Nowhere  else  can  so  much 
that  is  picturesque  in  dress,  in  manners,  and  in 
all  social  relations  be  seen.  One  who  goes  to 
India  before  visiting  China  and  Japan  will  expe- 
rience an  anti-climax  in  visiting  the  two  latter 
conntries.  The  Indians  are  our  Aryan  brethren  ; 
in  meeting  them  we  are  finding  a  long-lost  ac- 
quaintance. Notwithstanding  the  many  degrad- 
ing elements  of  their  heathenism,  there  is  still 
■luch  that  is  full  of  charm  in  the  country  and 
the  people.  The  mingling  of  varied  civiliza- 
tions, of  tribal  relations,  and  the  study  of  the 
progress  of  British  civilization  and  of  Christi- 
anity, give  an  unusual  charm  to  this  ancient  and 
430 


►ombay, 
len  the 
behind. 
)f   even 

Many 
eat  was 
:  neces- 
seen  to 
imnlate 
le  conn- 

and  a 
)  much 
,  and  in 
goes  to 
11  expe- 
o  latter 
ethren ; 
-lost  ac- 
degrad- 

is  still 
try  and 
:iviliza- 

of  the 
Christi- 
ent  and 


BOMBAY  431 

fascinating  country  and  people.  With  thoughts 
like  these  I  went  from  town  to  town  on  my  hasty 
tour.  The  trip  was  short,  but  it  would  be  diffi- 
cult for  any  one,  the  writer  honestly  believes,  to 
see  more  than  did  he  in  the  time  at  command. 

It  is  but  a  night's  ride  from  Ahmedabad  to 
Bombay.     So  far  as  was  possible,  long  distances 
between  cities  were  taken  at  night,  both  in  order 
to  save  time  and  to  escape  the  greater  heat  of 
the  daytime.     As  it  was  at  Bombay  that  Great 
Britain  got  her  lirst  foothold  in  India,  so  very 
often  at  Bombay  tourists  have  their  first  view  of 
India.     Theie  is  a  genuine  charm  in  this  quaint 
city,  a  charm  which  increases  rather  than  dimin- 
ishes by  a  second  visit.     Here  the  first  glimpse 
of  the  commingling  Indian  civilizations,  Hindu, 
Mohammedan,  Parsi,  and  Christian,  not  to  speak 
of   the   earlier   tribal    civilizations,   is   enjoyed. 
There  is  a  strange  attraction  in  this  Indian  life, 
and  a  tourist  comes  back  to  Bombay  prepared  to 
enjoy  its  picturesque  views  with  a  much  greater 
interest  than  when  he  first  saw  this  far-off  Indian 
city. 

India's  Chief  Port.— It  is  supposed  that  the 
name  Bombay  is  from  the  word  "  Bambe,"  the 
name  of  an  Indian  goddess,  named  Mani'be  or 
Bambe  Dwi,  or  Mambai,  meaning  "Great 
Mother,"  to  whom  once  there  was  a  temple 
on  what  is  now  the  Esplanade.  The  Portu- 
guese, however,  who  came  into  possession  of  the 
islands  in  1530,  derived  the  name  from  hiwii- 
bahia,   which  word    in  the   Portuguese  tongue 


>:■■ 


.t!« 


V 


^^^^^^Kifvr    '  ^ 

Wh 

'ill 

■i    III 

^^Kit^ 

'  1 1 

.it'!: 

-'  'I 

^K^'^l 

•'  ^ 

^K'^^l 

•\' 

H^^  1 

'i    J. 

■;     ^ 

\^-\ 

|:  ::! 

:ii'!'. 

■'' ' 

•'1 

If  '  i^' 

^Hf        '  '  A ' 

'l    :■ 

■  ;'''l 

i  1', 

■  '  i 

1/ '' 

i 

1 '  * 

1    1 

k.'i| 

I 

■ 

V 

■    ■  ■  r 

'•'  f  1 

'.  ; 

\ 

'1 

\  '  ■       '  * 

['  'j  1.' 

■  1  i 
i 

(L  ,   •* 

• 

ni  li  '    '  1' 

'  1 

»'■!'  (  i! 

1 

liO'l! 

■  i 

1     . '.; 

432 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


means  "good  bay."  This  city  is  the  capital  of 
the  province.  It  is  a  large  province,  and  for- 
merly was  a  presidency  and  one  of  the  ten  great 
government  divisions  of  British  India.  The  city 
is  situated  on  an  island  of  the  same  name,  which 
is  separated  from  the  mainland  by  an  arm  of  the 
sea.  The  island  is  ten  to  eleven  miles  long  and 
about  three  miles  wide,  and  the  city  occupies  its 
southern  extremity.  Few  places  are  more  pic- 
turesque as  the  tourist  approaches  them  than  is 
this  queenly  city.  Since  the  opening  of  the 
Suez  Canal  it  has  acquired  great  commercial  as 
well  as  political  importance.  It  is  now  at  the 
head  of  the  Indiar  ports,  so  far  as  concerns  Eu- 
ropean trade ;  but  Calcutta,  as  we  have  already 
seen,  is  still  the  seat  of  the  vice-regal  govern- 
ment of  India. 

The  area  of  the  city  is  estimated  at  about 
twenty-two  square  miles.  The  population  is 
between  eight  hundred  and  nine  hundred  thou- 
sand. The  Hindus  number  over  half  a  million 
of  this  population  ;  the  Mohammedans  are  about 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand,  and  the  Chris- 
tians forty-five  thousand ;  Parsis  fifty  thousand, 
Jews  five  thousand,  and  several  smaller  sects, 
the  Jains  being  much  the  largest,  make  up  the 
remainder  of  the  population.  The  population 
of  the  city  proper  is  very  dense,  as  most  of  the 
people  occupy  only  about  four  square  miles  of 
the  entire  area.  That  sickness  is  not  more  fre- 
quent is  evidence  that  the  climate  is  reasonably 
healthful.  Although  the  city  was  once  very 
unhealthful,  the  drainage  latterly  has  been  so 


BOMBAY 


433 


greatly  improved,  that  in  ordinary  seasons  the 
proportion  of  deaths  is  very  little  larger  than  in 
l^ondon. 

The  opening  of  conimnnication  by  railway  to 
all  parts  of  India  has  contributed  greatly  to  the 
rapid  growth  of  Bombay  ;  for  Lliat  city  is  now 
in  close  touch  with  the  Punjab,  the  Central  Prov- 
inces of  India,  the  Northwestern  Provinces  of 
Bengal,  with  Calcutta,  and,  in  a  word,   with  all 
parts   of   the   peninsula.       Unlike   most   cities, 
Bombay  is  not  situated  on  a  river.     It  is  on  one 
of  a  cluster  of  islands  artificially  connected  with 
one  another  and  with  the  mainland  by  cause- 
ways and  railway  viaducts.     These  islands  thus 
connected  now  practically  form  a  peninsula  lying 
nearly   north  and   south,   and   they   have   also 
created  a  harbor,  which  takes  rank  among  the 
finest  harbors  in  the  world.     Many  thincrs  have 
thus  contributed  to  give  Bombay  its  influential 
position  among  the  cities  of   India,  and  even 
among  the  cities  of  the  world. 

The  modern  European  quarter  is  at  the  Apollo 
Bandar  where  many  tourists  land.  At  once 
upon  landing  the  traveller  is  struck  by  the  grand 
array  of  public  buildings  in  this  Eastern  city. 
Not  only  are  the  individual  buildings  fine,  but 
their  general  arrangement  produces  a  marked 
unity  of  impression.  What  has  been  called  a 
happy  inspiration"  has  blended  the  Gothic 
and  Indian  schools  of  architecture.  At  the  junc- 
tion of  two  thoroughfares  are  the  Victoria  Station 
and  the  new  municipal  oflfices.  These  are  the 
largest  buildings  in  Bombay. 


VM 


:      i 


',! 


2C 


) 


asa 


U  t' 


434 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


'*  Ji 


:/. 


«  if 


ill 


Before  coiitiiuiing  our  tour  throu^^hout  the 
city  it  will  be  well  for  lis  to  familiarize  ourselves 
somewhat  with  the  interestiug  history  of  this 
great  city.  We  have  already  seen  that  the 
British  secuicd  their  first  possession  in  India  on 
this  island.  Near  the  close  of  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury it  was  conquered  by  the  Mohammedans, 
and  in  1530  it  was  ceded  by  them  to  the  Portu- 
guese. It  was  conveyed  to  the  English  in  1661, 
as  a  portion  of  the  dowry  of  Catharine  of  Bra- 
ganza,  the  Infanta  of  Portugal,  before  her  mar- 
riage with  Charles  II.  of  England.  He  in  1668 
transferred  the  island  to  the  East  India  Company. 
In  1685  this  company  removed  its  chief  presi- 
dency from  Surat  to  Bombay,  and  held  posses- 
sion of  the  island  until  1859,  paying  for  it  an 
annual  rental  equivalent  to  fifty  dollars.  Partly 
as  a  result  of  the  Indian  mutiny  and  the  con- 
sequent change  in  the  method  of  Hindu  govern- 
ment necessitated  by  that  mutiny,  the  home 
government  assumed  direct  control  of  all  the 
British  possessions  in  India.  Bombay  in  this 
way  came  under  the  general  government.  The 
ancient  portion  of  the  city  is  still  known  as  the 
fort.  Its  principal  streets  are  wide,  well-paved, 
and  well-lighted,  and  they  will  compare  very 
favorably  with  those  of  average  British  and 
American  cities.  In  the  native  parts  of  the  city 
the  streets  are  narrow,  but  even  there  the  sanitary 
arrangements  have  been  greatly  improved  in  re- 
cent years.  Tramways  are  very  common  in 
Bombay,  and  a  generous  system  of  interchange 
tickets  is  in  vogue.     Carriages  can  be  hired  for 


!;;-'(' 


BOMBAY 


)Ut  the 
irselves 
of  this 
lat  the 
ndia  on 
ith  cen- 
nedans, 
:  Portu- 
n  1661, 
of  Bra- 
er  mar- 
in  1668 
nipany. 
f  presi- 

posses- 
•r  it  an 

Partly 
;he  con- 
govern- 
;  home 
all  the 
in  this 
L.  The 
1  as  the 
l-paved, 
re  very 
sh  and 
the  city 
sanitary 
:d  in  re- 
non  in 
rchange 
ired  for 


435 


?? 


prices  which  to  an  American  seem  ridicnlously 
low.  The  entire  city  can  be  reasonably  w^ll 
examined  in  a  single  day,  although,  of  co  irse, 
one  could  profitably  spend  much  more  time  on 
this  island. 

PuBuc  Buildings.— The   public  offices,   as 
already  nnplied,  are  of  unusual  size  and  excel- 
lence.    They  really  surprise  a  visitor  from  the 
Occident,  and  they  succeed  one  another  in  re- 
markable regularity  and  in  commendable  unity 
of  design.     Close  to  the  Esplanade  Hotel,  locally 
known  as  Watson's    Hotel,  is   the  Presidential 
Secretariat;    then   come   the    University    Hall 
Library,  and  Clock  Tower ;  then  the  lavv  courts' 
public  works,  post  office,  and  telegraph  offices.    ' 
The   Secretariat  is  four   hundred  and  forty- 
three  feet  long,  and  each  of  its  two  wincrs  is 
eighty-one  feet  long.     Its  style  is  the  Venetian 
Gothic;  a  great  window  lights  the  staircase,  and 
over  It  rises  the  tower  to  a  height  of  one  hundred 
and  seventy  feet.     The  Universitv  Library  and 
Clock  Tower  form   really  a  grand  pile.     This 
building   would    attract   attention   in  any    city, 
either  in  America  or  in  Eu.-ope.     What  is  known 
as  the  Rajabai  Tower,  on  the  west  side,  is  one  of 
the  most  conspicuous  buildings  in  the  city,  being 
two  hundred  and  sixty  feet  high.     It  was  the 
gift  of  Mr.  Premchand  Raichand,  and  was  built 
in  memory  of  his  mother,  Rajabai.     The  tourist 
cannot  do  better  than  get  a   view  of  Bombay 
from  the  top  of  this  lofty  tower.     The  Univer- 
sity Hall  is  a  building  iii  the  PVench  Decorated 


■  ,i 


V- 


ii 


ills 


i   I 


f.  'ivi 


4  Ii 


'I; 


'i^' 


if 


't.:ij  !'| ; 


r  • 


r  i  til 


f  1 


436 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


style.  It  also  is  noted  for  its  size,  beinj^  one 
hnndied  and  four  feet  long.  The  Conrts  of  Jus- 
tice are  really  an  immense  structure,  beinj;'  five 
hundred  and  sixty-two  feet  \ou^.  The  interior 
of  these  buildings  is  admirably  divided  for  their 
various  purposes.  In  one  of  the  courts  there  is 
a  carved  teak  gallery  for  the  public,  running 
around  three  sides.  The  ceiling  is  also  of  this 
same  rich  wood  and  the  floor  is  of  Italian  mosaic. 

The  Town  Hall  is  in  the  Elphinstone  Circle; 
it  was  opened  in  1835,  and  was  a  very  costly 
building.  The  Mint  is  close  to  the  Town  Hall, 
and  though  a  plainer  building,  is  one  of  excel- 
lent taste  and  simple  beauty.  The  Victoria  Sta- 
tion is  the  terminus  of  the  great  Indian  Penin- 
s>  la  Railway.  It  occupies  a  conspicuous  place 
and  is  considered  to  be  not  only  one  of  the  hand- 
somest buildings  in  Bombay,  l)ut  certainly  the 
finest  railway  station  in  India,  and  one  of  the 
finest  in  the  whole  world.  It  is  a  vast  building 
and  is  richly  ornamented  with  sculpture  and  im- 
posingly surmounted  by  a  great  dome.  Its  style 
is  the  Italian  Gothic  with  certain  interesting 
characteristics.  But  time  would  fail  to  tell  of 
the  Municipal  Buildings,  the  Custom  House, 
and  still  (Hher  buildings  devoted  to  business 
and  to  municipal  affairs. 

The  Anglican  cathedral,  or  Cathedral  of  St. 
Thomas,  he  being  popularly  supposed  to  be  the 
apostle  to  India,  stands  close  to  the  Elphinstone 
Circle.  When  built,  in  1718,  it  was  a  garrison 
church,  but  was  made  a  cathedral  in  1833,  when 
the  See  of  Bombay  was  established.     There  are 


BOM HAY 


437 


here  nionutneiils  connected  with  the  history  of 
Bombay  and  of  India.  One  is  of  special  interest, 
that  of  Jonathan  Duncan,  who  was  governor  for 
sixteen  years.  He  exercised  much  influence  in 
suppressin*,*^  infanticide  in  Benares  and  in  other 
parts  of  India,  and  this  monument  represents 
him  receivin<r  the  hlcssinj^s  of  yonnj^  Hindus. 
The  Memorial  Church  of  St.  John,  Christ  Church, 
Byculla,  the  Roman  Church  in  Meadow  Street, 
and  St.  Andrew's  Kirk  in  Marine  Street,  are  all 
worthy  of  observation.  I  had  the  pleasure  of 
worshipiuj^  in  the  last;  it  is  a  plainer  structure 
than  the  others  named. 

The  Baptist  church,  to  which  I  drove  immedi- 
ately upon  arriving  in  Bombay,  is  opposite  the 
Byculla.  The  pastor  is  Rev.  H.  K.  Barrell,  who 
was  at  the  time  of  my  visit  absent  in  Kngland, 
on  a  mission  of  peculiar  tenderness  and  sorrow. 
He  is  doing  excellent  service,  and  I  have  been 
glad  to  hear  from  him  since  my  return  home. 
It  was  a  privilege  to  worship  with  his  people, 
and  the  courtesies  which  they  extended  in  sev- 
eral ways  were  luartily  appreciated.  IVIeeting 
here  with  W.  B.  Boggs,  d.  d.,  of  the  Telugu 
mission,  gave  additional  pleasure  to  the  occa- 
sion. 

The  Grant  College  of  Medicine,  and  the  hos- 
pital founded  by  the  Parsi  merchant,  Sir  Jam- 
shidji  Jijibhai,  deserve  mention;  as  is  also  the 
Pinjra  Pal,  or  infirmary  for  animals,  in  the  cen- 
ter of  the  native  quarter.  The  cemeteries  are 
also  worthy  of  a  visit,  as  are  also  Elphin.stone 
College,   St.  Xavier's  College,  Wilson   College, 


'  i 


r.  J  ^  «;sco&^SJ^  B  f A 


I 

Ml 


^^ 


% 
t 


'i^iH 


^ 


\  l|' 


It  I 


n   •' 


.11!  4 


M 


1 1'   r*'  '  :! 


I'i 


'H 


43« 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


and  the  Alexandria  C(dlcgfe,  the  last  bcinpf  for 
Parsi  women.  There  are  other  charitable  insti- 
tntions,  which  take  hi^h  rank  with  those  of  their 
class.  The  nuiseunis,  the  Victoria  Oardens,  and 
the  Crawford  Market  well  repay  a  visit,  if  the 
tourist  can  spare  the  time  for  that  purpose. 


Thk  Native  Quarter. — The  native  quarter 
is  interesting  to  an  unusual  degree.  It  is  said 
that  there  are  not  fewer  than  three  thousand 
jewelers  of  different  Indian  nationalities  who 
find  employment  in  Bombay.  I  made  several 
visits  to  various  establishments  of  the  leading 
jewelers;  they  are  fascinating  even  to  one  who 
is  not  a  connoisseur  in  such  matters.  The  writer 
was  glad  that  certain  members  of  his  family 
were  not  with  him  when  these  attractive  places 
were  visited,  else  the  modest  "  letter  of  credit  " 
might  have  been  so  drawn  upon  that  a  steamer 
ticket  home  could  not  have  been  purchased. 

Tortoise-shell  carving  is  a  specialty,  as  are 
also  black  wood  carving,  sandalwood  and  the 
"  Bombay  boxes,"  including  different  kinds  of 
wood  and  several  varieties  of  inlay  work.  Bom- 
bay embroidery  and  gold  and  silver  thread  are 
very  largely  esteemed  in  the  markets  of  the 
world.  The  streets  and  bazaars  of  the  native 
quarter  are  very  picturesque  in  their  houses, 
shops,  and  people,  and  are  very  narrow  and 
crooked.  One  may  see  here  the  mingling  of  the 
influence  of  Portuguese  life  and  art  upon  the 
native  habits  of  the  Hindu  ;  and  here  and  there 
Hindu  temples  gayly  painted  are  seen.      Per- 


nOMBAY 


439 


haps  tlicre  is  no  part  of  tlie  world  wlicre  a 
busier,  livelier,  and  more  varied  life  can  be  seen 
than  in  these  bazaars. 

Here  are  representatives  of  many  heathen 
faiths,  and  of  many  of  the  peoples  of  earlier 
India.  If  one  sees  a  half-dozen  men  and  women 
he  will  sec  as  many  styles  of  dress  as  there  are 
men  and  women.  Here  are  seen  Arabs,  Persians, 
Afghans,  Ne<^roes  of  Zanzibar,  Malays,  Chinese, 
Parsis,  Jews,  Lascars,  and  Europeans  represent- 
ing many  coiuitries,  and  here  also  are  soldiers 
and  officials  of  different  j^^rades.  It  is  a  marvel- 
ous scene.  The  Hindu  temples  in  Bombay  are, 
for  the  most  part,  comparatively  modern ;  they 
are,  nevertheless,  striking  and  instructive.  One's 
heart  sinks  within  him  as  he  sees  the  enormous 
tide  of  heathenism  flowing  through  these  streets. 
This  tide  gives  the  dark  side  of  life  in  heathen 
countries  ;  but  it  has  a  bright  side,  where  Chris- 
tianity has  made  itself  felt  and  where  heathen- 
ism is  yielding  to  the  power  of  a  purer  faith  and 
a  nobler  life. 


•;- « 


The  Parsis.— Many  of  the  wealthier  inhabi- 
tants of  Bombay  are  Parsis.  They  are  prominent 
among  the  natives  for  their  intelligence,  indus- 
try, capacity,  business  ability,  and  great  wealth. 
They  are  the  descendants  of  the  ancient  fire-wor- 
shipers who  were  banished  from  Persia  by  their 
Mohammedan  persecutors.  They  are  the  modern 
followers  of  Zoroaster;  their  number  in  Persia  is 
probably  not  more  than  seven  thousand,  but  in 
India  it  is  perhaps  not  less  than  one  hundred  and 


440 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


M<'i 


,t    WJ 


m: 


'•    ;i    .:  I 


1  ! 


1  ' 


•  i: 


i 


fifty  thousand.  The  Mohammedans  hate  them 
and  would  persecute  them  if  they  b  id  the  power 
SiS  (^iaours^  or  infidels.  The  Parsis  are  devotedly 
attached  to  the  British  power  in  India  because 
it  has  granted  them  civil  and  religious  liberty. 
They  are  by  far  the  most  intelligent  and  pros- 
perous people  in  India  outside  of  the  British. 

They  keep  aloof  socially  from  other  races  and 
strictly  preserve  their  own  individuality.  Their 
dress  is  partly  Oriental  and  partly  European.  Its 
fashion  changes  but  little  from  that  of  their  fathers 
after  a  thousand  years.  Their  caps  are  among 
the  most  noticeable  kinds  of  head-dress  seen  in 
India.  Their  v/omen  often  are  beautiful ;  and 
arrayed  in  the  fluffy,  floating  dresses  of  delicate 
and  haiiuonious  colors,  they  are  observable  and 
attractive  to  an  unusual  degree.  They  can  be 
distinguished  at  once,  even  by  a  stranger,  from 
the  Hindus  or  any  of  the  other  native  peoples. 

The  word  "  Parsi  "  means  inhabitants  of  Fars, 
or  Persia.  When  the  empire  of  the  Sassanides 
was  destroyed  by  the  Saracens,  about  650  A.  D., 
the  Zoroastrians  were  greatly  persecuted  ;  many 
of  them  embraced  Islam,  but  a  few  clung  he- 
roically to  the  old  faith.  These  w^^^*^  finally 
permitted  to  settle  in  one  of  the  most  barren 
parts  of  Persia ;  but  some  of  them  at  length  fled 
to  India,  and  the  rajah  of  Guzerat  became  their 
protector.  Soon  INIohammedanism  spread  until 
it  reached  them  in  India;  they  then  became 
again  the  subjects  of  persecution.  Since  the 
British  occupation  of  India  they  have  found 
ample  liberty,  civil  and  religious. 


r.! 


!   .i 


\      I 


BOMBAY 


441 


Le- 


They  have  never  ceased  their  intercourse  with 
tiieir  brethren  in  Persia,  but  their  worship  was 
for  a  time  corrupted  by  the  introduction  of  Hindu 
observances,  and  among-  the  less  intelligent  the 
-.everence  for  fire  and  the  sun,  as  emblems  of 
Orniuzd,  degenerated  into  idolatry.  The  sacred' 
fire  which  Zoroaster  is  said  to  have  brought  from 
heaven  has  never  been  extinguished  in  certain 
sacred  spots  and  temples.  These  fires  are  tended 
by  priests,  who  chant  hymns  and  burn  incense. 
In  1852  an  association  was  formed,  whose  object 
was  to  purif}'  t!:e  faith  and  practices  of  the 
people;  and  soinetliing  has  been  done  to  restore 
the  creed  of  Zoroaster  to  its  original  purity. 

Many  of  the  Parsis  in  Bombay  permit  their 
children  to  attend  the  public  schools,  and  they 
are  becoming  intelligent  and  modern  in  thought, 
and  ready  to  adapt  themselves  to  P'uropean  man- 
ners and  customs.  It  was  a  genuine  pleasure  to 
meet  a  number  of  the  representative  followers  of 
this  ancient  people,  and  to  learn  many  things 
from  them  concerning  their  social  and  religious 
tenets  and  their  metliods  of  worship. 

Their  most  peculiar  custom  is  the  method  of 
disposing  of  their  dead.  Their  walled  "  Towers 
of  Silence,"  as  the  place  is  called,  stands  on  the 
summit  of  Malabar  Hill,  the  most  fashionable 
suburb  of  Bombay.  vSir  Jamshidji  Jijibhai,  at 
his  own  expense,  built  the  fine  road  which  on 
one  side  leads  to  the  towers.  There  are  here 
five  round  towers  about  sixty  feet  in  diameter 
and  fifty  feet  in  height.  The  largest  tower  cost 
one  hundred  and  fifty  thousand  dollars  and  the 


''5 


i'l 


J. 


I 


'i  i 


^   Hy. 


^% 


T'll 


I; 


I*'- 


si' I 

if.' 


442 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


others  about  one  hundred  thousand  dollars  each. 
These  towers  constitute  the  cenietery  of  the 
Parsis.  They  are  surrounded  by  beautiful  ;^ar- 
deus,  kept  in  bloom  and  loveliness  at  all  seasons 
of  the  year.  The  oldest  of  these  towers  is  of 
^YQHt  age.  One  of  the  towers  is  kept  for  the 
bodies  of  criminals,  as  they  are  deemed  unworthy 
to  mingle  with  the  bones  of  honest  men  and 
women. 

As  soon  as  a  Parsi  dies  his  body  is  taken  to  a 
small  temple,  and  after  certain  formulas  have 
been  observed,  it  is  carried  on  a  stretcher  through 
a  door  of  one  of  the  towers.  Those  who  bear  the 
body  belong  to  a  special  class,  and  are  not  al- 
lowed to  intermarry  with  persons  of  other  call- 
ings. The  clothing  is  then  entirely  removed 
from  the  body,  and  it  is  placed  upon  a  grating  a 
few  feet  above  the  ground  ;  the  bearers  hastily 
retire,  and  the  door  is  locked.  On  the  top  of  the 
towers  sit  hundreds  of  vultures  ;  they  watch  the 
preparations  going  on  below  them,  and  no  sooner 
have  the  bearers  retired  than  the  vultures  swoop 
down  to  gorge  themselves  with  the  flesh  of  the 
dead.  Soon  they  return,  their  condition  clearly 
indicating  what  has  occurred  during  their  ab- 
sence. 

During  my  visit  a  procession  approached  the 
Towers  of  Silence,  and  the  various  proceedings 
I  have  now  briefly  described  occurred.  An  in- 
telligent Parsi,  in  reply  to  a  question  regarding 
their  method  of  disposing  of  their  dead,  said: 
"You  bury  your  dead  in  the  earth,  ar^'  the 
worms  destroy  the  body,  and  should  you  die  at 


11 


v4 


BOMliAY 


443 


sea  on  your  homeward  journey  the  sharks  would 
consume  you.  '■  j^iveour  dead  to  the  birds  of 
the  air."  It  was  not  easy  to  make  a  conchisive 
response  to  his  remarks,  and  yet  one  turned 
away  from  the  Towers  of  vSilence  with  a  strange 
sinking  of  heart  as  he  looked  up  at  the  hideous 
vultures,  and  realized  why  at  that  moment  they 
were  .so  gorged  and  sleepy.  It  is  quite  certain 
that  we  shall  have  to  adopt  improved  methods 
of  disposing  of  our  dead  in  America  and  in  Hug- 
land,  but  it  is  equally  certain  that  we  shall  not 
be  likely  to  adopt  the  method  which  the  Parsis 
have  .so  long  practised.  Their  claim  is  that  the 
body  pollutes  the  earth,  and  that  it  would  pollute 
fire,  the  symbol  of  their  deity,  should  they,  like 
the  Hindus,  burn  the  body;  but  that  the  method 
they  have  selected  preserves  both  earth  and  fire 
from  this  form  of  pollution. 

Their  part  of  Bombay  is  extremely  beautiful. 
A  drive  round  the  base  of  Malabar  Hill  and 
along  the  .shore  of  the  Arabian  vSea  is  an  experi- 
ence which  no  tourist  will  be  likely  soon  to 
furget.  It  reminds  one  of  the  environs  of  Genoa, 
as  he  may  have  driven  along  the  road  overlook- 
ing the  Mediterranean. 

There  is  one  institution  in  Bombay  of  which 
many  travelers  have  spoken  with  appreciation, 
the  Pinjra  Pol  ;  this  is  an  asylum  for  aged  and 
decrepit  animals.  Oxen,  horses,  dogs,  birvls,  and 
other  animals  without  home  or  food,  find  here  a 
shelter  and  excellent  care.  There  are  four  divi- 
sions for  different  classes  of  animals  Ivxcepting 
the  dogs,  the  animals  are  very  quiet.    The  place 


I  \'. 


iV 


•    '  III 

it' 


l!. 


i 


)'. 


i) 


444 


AROUND   THE   WOKI.D 


is  in  the  quarter  called  "  Bholeshovar,"  meaning-, 
"  Lord  of  the  simple."  A  form  of  the  Ood  Siva 
is  found  in  the  enclosure  A  philanthropic  na- 
tive left  a  large  sum  of  money  for  the  purpose  of 
this  institution,  and  a  number  of  endowments 
have  been  received  during  the  past  few  years,  so 
that  now  the  institution  is  not  dependent  u\>on 
annual  offerings  for  its  support.  Often  visitors 
leave  generous  donations  for  the  good  work 
which  is  carried  on  at  this  asylum  for  animals. 
The  yard  and  buildings  cover  at  least  two  acres 
of  ground.  No  animal  receiving  the  care  of 
this  institution  is  ever  killed. 

Too  often  in  America  injured  animals  are  cast 
off  to  live  or  die,  as  chance  may  decide,  without 
any  care  from  their  former  owners.  It  may  be 
said  that  all  through  the  East  remarkable  con- 
sideration is  given  to  animals,  and  although  this 
consideration  is  unfortunate  w'hen  it  is  applied 
to  poisonous  snakes  and  other  dangerous  crea- 
tures, it  is  admirable  when  it  is  applied  to  do- 
mestic animals  that  have  rendered  long  and  ex- 
cellent se  'Mce.  There  are  some  things  wdiich 
we  of  ci\"'  ied  countries  may  learn  even  from 
those  whom  we  stigmatize  as  heathen. 

The  Caves  of  ElEphanta. — I  had  read 
something  of  the  caves  of  Ajunta,  and  of  other 
caves  in  India,  as  well  as  of  thosr  of  Elephanta, 
but  no  opportunity  was  given  me  to  visit  any 
other  of  the  caves  than  those  near  Bombay.  It 
was,  therefore,  with  the  greater  zest  that  the 
visit  to  these  caves  was  made.     Elephanta  is  a 


h 


\i 


f 

'1 


IIOMUAY 


44' 


s\m\\\  Isktlct  ajiout  six  miles  from  the  Fort  of 
tiombay,  and  steam  launches  can  be  hired  which 
make  the  passaj^-e  in  about  an  hour.  The  natives 
call  this  place  (kirapuri,  mcanin<>-  "the  town  of 
the  rock";  or,  accordingly  to  other  authorities, 
"  town  of  purification  "  ;  or  still  others,  "  town 
of  excavation."  The  natives  call  the  caves 
Lcnem^  a  word  which  probabl)-  has  reference  to 
the  fact  that  most  of  these  caves  were  orimnallv 
used  as  places  of  retirement  by  reli<j[ious  ascetics. 
A  mass  of  the  rock  was  cut  into  the  shape  of  an 
elephant,  and  this  fact  gave  the  place  the  name 
by  wdiicli  it  is  known  among  Europeans.  The 
liead  of  the  elephant  was  broken  off  in  1814,  and 
the  headless  body  was  removed  to  Bombay,  where 
it  is  now  on  exiiibition  in  the  Victoria  (jardens ; 
but  the  former  name  of  the  i'^land  still  remains. 
The  island  consists  of  two  long  hills.  There  is 
a  series  of  slippery  steps  over  which  one  must 
pass  to  reach  the  caves.  No  one  knows  wdien 
these  caves  were  excavated,  although  the  date  is 
generally  put  somewhere  between  the  eighth  and 
the  twelfth  centuries  of  our  era.  Two  massive 
pillars  stand  at  the  opening  into  the  temple,  and 
the  excavation  consists  of  three  principal  parts. 
We  learn  that  one  side  of  this  cave  is  one  hun- 
dred and  thirty  feet  long,  and  the  breadth  is, 
from  the  eastern  to  the  western  entrances,  about 
as  great  as  the  length.  The  cave  was  once  sup- 
ported by  twenty-six  pillars,  some  of  which  are 
no'Y  broken,  and  the  height  varies  considerably 
at  different  points  within  the  cave.  Different 
parts  are  known  by  special  names.     The  great 


'■•'&- 


5 


j^ 


11'^ 


1'    ' 


i'*' 


1  ;  ', 


It 


V 


.M6 


AKorxn  Tin-:  worm) 


cavo  llio  Iliiulus  call  a  vSiva  Ijii»;ain  Umii])1c. 
This  was  a  class  of  biiildiiii^s  oiicc  very  conniioii 
ill  SoiilliciiJ  and  Central  India,  and  many  Ilindns 
believe  that  deities  constrncted  these  <;rcat  cave 
temples,  and  that  many  of  them  visit  these  sa- 
cred places  at  their  reli<;ions  festivals. 

On  the  wall  of  one  temple  is  a  three-faced 
hnst,  nineteen  feet  in  height.  It  is  a  representa- 
tion of  vSiva ;  one  face  rei)resents  him  as  the 
creator,  another  as  the  destroyer,  and  the  third 
as  the  preserver.  In  this  last  case  he  apjiears 
as  Vishnn  holding;-  a  lotns  flower  in  his  hand. 
There  is  another  fij^-nre  with  the  nnprononnce- 
able  name,  "  Arddhanarishwar."  This  is  a  fij^nre 
of  a  half  male  and  a  half  female  divinity,  the 
rioht  half  representino^  the  male  and  the  left  the 
femali\  This  is  intended  to  set  forth  the  fact 
that  Siva  nnites  both  sexes  in  his  one  j^erson. 
Other  fionres  in  other  caves  represent  Siva  in 
a  similar  character,  and  in  some  of  the  sacred 
\vritinos  he  is  also  so  described.  In  another 
compartment  are  oiu-antic  fio-ures  of  Siva  and 
Parbati.  There  are  manv  other  fijifnres  in  dif- 
fcrent  parts  of  these  caves,  as  there  are  many 
other  caves  in  this  oronp  or  in  this  vicinity. 
The  fact  is  that  these  caves,  if  only  their  his- 
tory were  thoronohly  known,  represent  no  small 
])art  of  the  reli«-ions  and  social  life  of  Bombay 
and  of  India.  The  caves  of  India,  those  of  1{1- 
lora,  as  well  as  the  others  already  named,  conld 
fnrnisli  material  cnongh  for  special  study  for 
years.  Probably  they  all  orig-inated  prior  to 
the  Christian  era. 


I. 

''    it 


'i 


other 

and 

dif- 

inany 

nity. 

his- 

siuall 

ubav 

Ki- 

could 
y  for 
3r    to 


IJOMIJAY 


4-17 


The  Portuj^niesc,  we  arc  told,  planted  cannon 
before  the  eave  and  destroyed  many  of  tlie  ])il- 
lars  at  its  entrance  ;  one  sees  here  han^in^''  pil- 
lars, the  capitals  only  remaining.  I'.ut  as  all 
parts  of  the  cave  are  carved  ont  of  the  same 
rock,  each  part  is  as  truly  self-supporting  as  any 
other. 

vSome  of  the  fij^ures  in  bas-relief  are  admir- 
ably executed  and  others  are  peculiarly  hideous. 
They  all  aj^ree  in  the  lack  of  just  pro])ortions 
of  form  or  expression  of  feature.  There  is  no 
attempt  at  anatomical  proportion  and  no  evi- 
dences of  artistic  genius.  The  figures,  no  doubt, 
were  intended  to  be  typical  of  certain  ideals,  as 
are  the  idols,  of  many  heathen  countries.  It 
was  not  the  purp().se  to  make  them  like  anything 
in  heaven  above  or  on  the  earth  beneath,  and  in 
this  respect  the  original  idea  was  admirably  car- 
ried out. 

When  the  Prince  of  Wales  was  in  India  a 
barbecue  was  given  him  within  the  cave  ;  this 
certainly  was  a  use  for  the  cave  to  which  no  one 
of  its  original  designers  ever  supposed  it  would 
be  put. 

Most  restful  were  mv  two  days  in  Bombay 
after  the  hurried  trip  which  I  made,  going  twice 
across  the  Indian  Peninsula.  There  was  time 
for  the  enjoyment  of  some  social  fellowship,  for 
loitering  along  the  shores  of  the  l)eautiful  bay, 
for  watching  a  game  of  football  between  repre- 
sentatives c)f  dilTerent  regiments  of  soldiers,  and 
for  lisicllliig  to  charming  military  music  during 
the  evening  hours.     As  Boudjay  was  the  first, 


I 


if 


'^1  J 


''I 


>  j 


pi 


:!■■: 

1 11.' 


1 


i'  ^  i  if' 


1 

'!■' 


I  K^    !f 


"r 


448 


AROUND   TIIK    WORLD 


SO  it  was  the  last  siglit  on  Indian  soil  which  I 
enjoyed.  Soon  the  ship  was  taken  which  bore 
nie  to  Aden,  and  so  the  journey  homeward,  which 
had  already  been  jjc^un,  was  earnestly  continued  ; 
but  never  will  the  varied  and  channin<^  scenes 
of  India,  short  though  my  visit  was,  be  effaced 
from  memory. 


XXXV 


Tin;   ARABIAN  SEA 

^l/E  now  have  to  bid  farewell  to  India.  At 
tn,„i  ^q'"'  "••  .^"''"y,  tlie  thirteenth  of  Sep- 
was   o  take  ns  to  our  steamer  wliieh  lay  in  the 

1  of  ^hon  "r,  •'l"  'rf  P'"^^^''  ■"  """=!  ™' 

snn'nW  ,^  ''""'   '"'■""^'■>-'   "^   «Ple"dor  and 

squalor,   made    an   enduring    impression    nnoi 
"Mnd  and  heart.     It  ranks  above  eve     Japa     i 

ynastie;    ^f''^^'  ««  ^aek  to  the  ren.otcst 
fiyiasties.     Its  many  rtnns  captivate  the  fancy 

power  ,V"°'""  "^^"^'^''  °f  '''  P^°P'e  "mkes  a 
powerful  nupression  on  the  mind.     No  cue  can 

doubt  the  great  antiquity,  the  marvelous  varieu" 

iz-ation.  We  owe  much  to  her  people  for  our 
knowledge   of   .science,   philosophy,  astrouom 

b  en  the'n.  '"?  "^  "''^""'-  T'.e'sanskri°  iu  s 
i)cen  the  parent  of  many  languages.  India's 
Aryan  people  are  really  our  own  I^rSth^rs 

Now  the  ancient  greatness   of   this   historic 
country  has  passed  away.    Her  lustre  is  din  me  ' 

ndif  P  T  '""''""  '"  superstition  ;  but  fo; 
India  a  new  day  ,s  dawning.     Christian  missions 

2D 

449 


h  \ 


1 


:li 


'.    ) 


'  / 


i^'> 


li 


'•' 


■?i 


'f 


i'J 


;■■  *  , 


450 


AROUND    TIIH    WORM) 


arc  caiisinj^  tlie  lifj^ht  of  Christianity  to  shine 
over  tliat  ancient  hind  and  that  coniniinj^lcd 
civilization.  Christianity  will  exalt  the  women 
of  India  from  being  the  slaves  or  toys  of  men 
into  a  trne  and  noble  womanhood.  On  the 
ruins  of  false  faiths  and  departed  civilizations 
Christianity  will  rear  temples  to  the  trne  and 
living  (iod,  and  will  cause  India  to  start  on  a 
\w\\  and  nobler  career  of  civilization. 

Farkwkij.  to  India. — From  the  deck  of  our 
steamer  we  had  the  last  look  on  the  lovely  shores 
of  Bombay.  There  is  the  suburb  of  Kolaba  ; 
yonder  the  IMalabar  Road  ;  there  the  ghats,  or 
hills,  rising  back  of  the  city  and  marking  the 
scene  of  Wellington's  conquest  and  of  the  de- 
feat of  the  Alahrattas. 

Here  are  English  fathers  and  mothers  on  the 
deck  of  the  ship  bidding  farewell  to  their  sons 
and  daughters  who  are  going  to  Kngland  or  to 
Scotland  for  their  education.  These  children 
were  born  in  India,  but  they  call  Great  Britain 
their  home.  Here  also  are  a  number  of  English- 
men and  Scotchmen  and  a  few  Irishmen  wlio 
are  going  back  to  their  respective  countries  after 
having  spent  many  years  in  India.  They  now 
love  India.  They  will  not  feel  at  home  in  the 
land  of  their  birth.  Some  who  have  completed 
their  term  of  service,  either  in  military  or  civil 
life,  will  be  almost  certain  to  come  back  to  India 
to  spend  their  closing  years.  They  are  con- 
scious of  the  mysterious  charm  which  India  al- 
ways exercises.     Remarkable  tenderness  is  shown 


shine 
inok'd 

VOlllCU 

)f  men 
)n  the 
'.ations 
le  and 
t  on  a 


ot  onr 
'  shores 
lolaba  ; 
lats,  or 
nj^  the 
the  de- 

on  the 
:ir  st)ns 
d  or  to 
hildren 
Britain 
nglish- 
n  who 
es  after 
ey  now 
in  the 
pleted 
or  civil 
o  India 
e   con- 
idia  al- 
shown 


TlIK    AKAIUA.N    Si; A 


45i 


by  parents  partinj.f  with  their  chihhx'U  and  hy 
children  j)artin<^  Wich  their  jiarents. 

The  sliip  moves  ont  of  the  superb  liarl)or  ind 
bay;  city  and  hills  j^raduall)  fade  into  shadows 
and  finally  ('isappcar  from  sij^ht.  Shall  I  ever 
see  them  ai^-^ain  ?  One  can  readily  appreciate 
how  onr  American  missi(,iiaries  come  to  love 
India.  With  all  its  sins  and  sorrows,  its  super- 
stitions and  \  '.ried  forms  of  degradation,  it  is 
still  an  attractive  conntr\ . 

We  ari.  now  bound  for  Aden,  the  Red  Sea,  and 
a  part  of  the  Suez  Canal.  Onr  voyage  is  one 
of  three  thousand  miles  across  the  Arabian  Sea 
and  through  the  Red  Sea.  Our  company  on 
board  is  made  up  of  civil  and  military  officers 
returning  to  Great  Britain,  and  also  bnsintss 
men  and  students  returning  to  Great  Britain. 
The  writer  was  apparently  the  only  tourist  on 
board.  He  was  traveling  entirely  ont  f)f  season 
and  had  been  often  almost  the  only  guest  in 
hotels  in  India  ;  the  other  guests,  when  there 
were  any,  were  Anglo-Indians  who  were  travel- 
ing on  business. 

Among  our  passengers  were  Sir  Comer  Pletli- 
eram  who,  for  a  nnmber  of  years,  has  been  chief 
justice  of  India.  We  also  had  Mr.  Justice  Nor- 
ris  who,  after  a  long  period  of  service,  has  been 
placed  on  the  retired  list,  and  is  entitled  to  a 
pension,  and  was  returning  to  England  in  broken 
health.  There  was  donlDt  on  the  part  of  the 
physicians  who  were  on  board  as  to  whether  or 
not  he  would  live  to  reach  England.  We  also 
had  Mr.  Justice  Gordon,  who  had  rendered  ex- 


IMAGE  EVALUATION 
TEST  TARGET  (MT-3) 


/. 


^  J^^4^. 


1.0 


I.I 


1.25 


" ""  IIIIIM 
'-  IIIIIM 

1.8 


1.4 


1.6 


6" 


V 


^. 


e^..  '    ^>.    ^'^^ 


^       s>^ 


*^.^' 


Photographic 

Sdences 

Corporation 


23  WEST  MAIN  STREET 

WE3STER,N.Y.  14580 

(716)  873-4503 


# 


,\ 


\\ 


'9) 


6^ 


'^:^ 


^ 


^^ 


452 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


V   ( 


■  I , 


''^i 


eel  lent  service  in  presiding^  over  varions  conrts 
in  different  parts  of  India.  We  had  also  a  nnm- 
ber  of  military  officers  whose  friendship  I  ninch 
enjoyed  and  whose  information  was  greatly  ap- 
preciated. 

There  were  other  passengers  who  stand  high 
in  relation  to  the  government  of  India  and  who 
exercise  mnch  inflnence  in  Great  Britain  in  re- 
spect to  its  Indian  possessions.  It  was  my  good 
fortnnc  to  sit  at  the  same  table  with  these  jnstices 
and  others  fully  informed  on  Oriental  matters, 
and  also  to  have  frciquent  and  prolonged  conver- 
sations with  tlicxn  regarding  Indian  affairs. 

For  a  part  of  the  journey  the  sea  was  rough, 
and  only  a  few  passengers  were  able  to  be  at  the 
table  or  on  deck.  The  writer  had  become  so 
much  accustomed  to  the  sea  that  he  had  not  the 
slightest  tendency  toward  the  dreaded  mal  de 
mcr.  Our  journey  took  us  within  twelve  de- 
grees of  the  equator,  and  at  times  the  weather 
was  extremely  warm  and  the  nights  correspond- 
ingly uncomfortable. 

Never  did  the  stars  seem  brighter  and  more 
fascinating.  They  seemed,  as  I  had  elsewhere 
observed  them,  especially  in  the  Hawaiian  Is- 
lands, to  be  wonderfully  near  and  to  be  strangely 
fraternal.  They  did  not  seem  to  be  set  in  the 
brow  of  night,  but  rather  to  be  lustrous  pendants 
from  the  firmament.  The  Southern  Cross  was 
wonderfully  bright  and  eloquently  suggestive  as 
I  gazed  upon  it  night  after  night  in  tlie  clear  at- 
mosphere characteristic  of  those  tropical  oceans. 
Marvelous  is  the  beautv  of  those  Southern  skies. 


s>. 


Vj 


THE    ARAIJIAN    SKA 


453 


courts 
a  iiiim- 
[  much 
itly  ap- 

d  hi^h 
nd  who 
11  in  re- 
ly good 
justices 
matters, 
conver- 
rs. 

i  rough, 
)e  at  the 
come  so 
1  not  the 
mal  de 
'elve  de- 
weather 
•respond- 

,ud  more 
:lse\vhere 
/aiian  Is- 
strangely 
et  in  the 
pendants 
2ross  was 
gestive  as 
e  clear  at- 
al  oceans, 
lern  skies. 


Fascinating  are  the  constellations  which  flash 
out  upon  the  observer.  One  can  almost  under- 
stand how  the  stars  came  to  be  objects  of  wor- 
ship. The  mariner  in  Southern  hemispheres 
beholds  the  Southern  Cross  with  a  sort  of  relig- 
ious reverence,  and  he  valr.cs  it  as  assisting  him 
in  measuring  time  and  in  guiding  his  course. 
Thus  the  ship  glided  day  after  day  over  the 
Arabian  Sea.  Sometimes  it  was  simply  a  gently 
throbbing  ocean,  and  at  other  times  it  was  stiffi- 
cieutly  rough  to  satisfy  those  who  were  ambi- 
tious to  see  a  storm  in  the  tropics. 

Aden. — On  the  sixth  day  after  leaving  Bom- 
bay we  approached  Aden.  Here  we  were  to  be 
transferred  to  the  magnificent  steamer  of  the 
same  line,  from  Australia  on  its  way  to  London. 
It  was  expected  that  this  steamer  would  be  at 
Aden  awaiting  our  arrival,  but  it  was  somewhat 
late,  and  we  were  obliged  to  wait  for  its  arrival. 

Aden  is  an  island,  or  more  strictly,  a  rocky 
peninsula,  on  the  southern  coast  of  Arabia.  It 
belongs  to  Great  Britain,  and  it  commands  the 
entrance  to  the  Red  Sea.  The  area  of  the  pe- 
ninsula is  eighteen  to  twenty  square  miles.  The 
entire  peninsula  is  doubtless  of  volcanic  origin. 
It  has  been  called  the  "Gibralta.  of  the  Indian 
Ocean."  It  enjoys  perpetual  sunshine.  Tlie 
natives  called  it  Aden,  or  Eden,  because  of  its 
fine  climate.  Once  it  was  little  more  than  a 
barren  rock,  but  now  it  has  become  a  habitable 
place,  having  a  population  of  over  forty  thousand 
of  all  nations  under  heaven,  although  it  is  given 


v\ 


\. 


V 

r 


li 


T 


454 


AROUND   TIIK    WOULD 


t'  > 


'  l!,' 


up  chiefly  to  British  soldiers  and  British  cannon. 
Aden  is  believed  l)y  some  writers  to  be  the  place 
called  Eden,  in  Kzek.  27  :  23,  and  the  "  Portus 
Romanus "  of  the  Romans.  It  was  known  to 
the  Romans,  was  possessed  by  the  Arabs,  and 
was  captured  from  them  by  the  Turks.  Pliny 
the  elder  seems  to  have  known  the  .lative  name, 
and  he  calls  it  "  Atliana."  On  his  return  from 
China,  Marco  Polo,  the  Venetian,  visited  Aden. 
He  mentions  the  port  as  having  been  a  place  of 
trade  with  China.  He  and  otliers  speak  of  its 
riches  and  splendor.  On  the  eighteenth  of  Feb- 
ruary, 1 5 13,  Albuquerque,  with  twenty  ships, 
sailed  from  India  for  the  conquest  of  Aden. 
He  succeeded  in  capturing-  only  a  part  of  the 
town,  and  was  finally  obliged  to  withdraw. 
Various  attempts  were  later  made  to  capture 
tills  city.  It  must  at  one  time  have  been  a 
place  of  great  strength,  as  Marco  Polo  states 
that  "  the  Soldan  of  Aden  sent  thirty  thousand 
horsemen  and  forty  thousand  camels  to  tlie  great 
help  of  the  Saracens  and  the  grievous  injuries  of 
the  Christians,"  when  the  Soldan  of  Babylon 
went  against  the  city  of  Acre,  a.  d.  1291. 

The  British  captured  Aden  from  the  Arabs  on 
the  sixteenth  of  January,  1839.  Three  times 
within  a  year  after  that,  united  Arab  tribes  en- 
deavored to  retake  the  city,  but  were  driven  back 
with  great  loss.  In  1846  a  similar  attempt  was 
made,  but  it  was  readily  repulsed.  This  attack 
was  followed  by  many  murders  committed  by 
religious  fanatics  whose  zeal  had  been  inflamed 
by  the  preaching  of  a  religious  war.     In  1858  it 


TIIH    AkAHIAN    SKA 


455 


became  necessary  for  the  British  to  march  against 
the  Arabs,  and  they  were  ronted  with  serious 
loss.  In  1865  attempts  were  made  to  blockade 
Aden  on  the  land  side,  but  these  efforts  were 
rendered  futile  by  the  vigorous  defense  of  the 
Britisli  troops.  Other  attempts  were  made  in 
1866,  but  since  that  time  the  Arab  tribes  have 
kept  their  treaties,  and  seem  to  be  more  friendly 
in  all  their  relations  to  the  British  government. 

The  town  is  at  a  considerable  distance  from 
the  shore.  It  is  really  in  the  center  of  an  ex- 
tinct volcano.  Tall  masts  of  wrecked  ships  are 
not  unfrequently  seen  in  the  harbor  of  Aden. 
The  Arab  name,  Bab-el-Mandeb,  "  The  Gate  of 
Tears,"  was  given  these  straits  because  of  the 
number  of  vessels  which  have  been  wrecked  in 
these  waters.  The  ships  of  the  ancients  were  so 
poorly  constructed  that  they  could  not  navigate 
this  dangerous  channel  without  frequent  loss  of 
ships  and  life.  The  improvement  in  the  con- 
struction of  ships  has  greatly  reduced  the  per- 
centage of  loss  in  these  recent  years ;  and  yet 
within  a  few  months  after  the  writer  passed 
through  these  straits,  a  stanch  vessel,  with 
nearly  all  on  board,  was  lost.  There  was  a 
proverb  among  seamen  that  no  vessel  under 
canvas  can  enter  the  Red  Sea  for  six  months  of 
the  year,  and  that  during  the  other  six  months  no 
vessel  under  canvas  can  go  out  of  the  Red  Sea. 
This  proverb  is  based  on  the  fact  that  the  winds 
blow  here  with  great  regularity  in  a  certain  di- 
rection for  half  a  year  at  a  time. 

We  approached  these  straits  with  great  caution. 


M    1 


T 


45^> 


AKOUN')   TIM-:    WORM) 


Souiulint;s  were  takcMi  contiinially  as  tlic  sliip 
slowly  1)us1k'(1  its  way  thnMij^li  this  cliaiint'l.  At 
ccrtai'i  points  the  water  is  very  shallow  and  the 
steamer  stirs  np  the  nuul  with  its  keel. 

No  sooner  had  we  reached  the  channel  than 
scores  of  vSoniali  boys  surrounded  the  ship, 
shouting,  as  we  heard  them  shout  in  many  other 
places:  "Have  a  dive?  Have  a  dive?  Ciood 
hoy,  j^ood  hoy."  They  sanj^  toj^ether,  clappiuj^ 
their  hands  upon  their  sides  as  an  accompani- 
iiieut  lo  their  sonj^s.  Many  passenj^ers  threw 
them  small  coins,  and  they  immediately  jumped 
into  the  water,  the  whole  crowd  struj^^lin^  to- 
oether  to  find  the  coiu.  Soon  they  came  up,  one 
of  them  havinj;  it  held  firmly  in  his  teeth.  Noth- 
in<^  could  be  seen  for  a  time  l)Ut  the  scores  of  feet 
stru<»,i;liug  above  the  water  as  the  boys  were  dis- 
appearing beneath  the  surface.  One  wondens 
that  accidents  do  not  oftener  occur,  as  sharks  and 
other  ravenous  fish  are  numerous  here.  The  boy 
who  fathers  in  the  j^reatest  number  of  shillinji^s 
is  one  who  a  few  )cars  a<»o  had  his  le<^  bitten  off 
by  a  siiark  or  some  other  fish.  His  brother 
plunj>cd  in  with  a  knife  as  the  fish  was  uiakinjif 
off  with  the  little  fellow,  killed  the  fish,  and 
l)rouf^ht  it  arvd  his  wounded  brother  to  the  shore. 
You  can  buy  the  photograph  of  both  at  Aden. 
This  little  fellow  is  an  expert  swimmer ;  and, 
no  doubt,  it  was  a  great  fiuancial  ji^aiu  for  him 
to  have  had  this  struj^p^le  with  the  shark  even 
thouo^h  he  lost  his  lej>;  in  the  conflict.  Some  of 
these  boys  will  climb  to  the  deck  of  the  g^reat 
steamers  whcu  the  officers  are  not  looking,  and 


M 


) 


Till-    AKAHIAN    SKA 


457 


lie  ship 
1K>1.  At 
[iiul  tlic 

cl  than 
L'  ship, 
ly  other 

(iood 
ln])pin]i*- 
)inpaiii- 

tlirew 
jiiinpcd 
linj4  to- 
ll p,  one 

Noth- 
;  of  feet 
ere  dis- 
^'oiulers 
rks  and 
1ie  l)oy 
iillinj»-s 
ttcn  off 
brother 
nakinj»- 
;h,  and 
?  shore. 
.  Aden. 
r ;  and, 
or  him 
k  even 
lome  of 
z  g^reat 
ur  and 


will  (live  from  the  hiuhcst  deek  for  a  few  pence, 
enjoyiiio  it  all  the  more  because  forbidden. 

These  are  straiiuc-lookin^r  fellows.  Their  hair 
IS  a  sort  of  red.  it  seems  to  be  dyed,  by  some 
means,  and  it  is  twisted  into  the  oddest  sort  of 
curls.  They  seem  to  be  almost  amphibions 
creatures.  Other  natives  came  on  board  onr 
ship  with  the  hope  of  selling  shells,  toys,  le()i)ard 
skins,  ostrich  feathers,  and  other  curiosities. 
vSome  of  these  peddlers  seem  to  be  vSvrian  Jews, 
dark  almost  as  Arabs,  but  still  possessiiij^r  the 
unmistakable  and  inelTaceable  Jewdsli  ])hysio};- 
noiny.  Their  hair  was  in  rin^dets,  their  stature 
was  small,  but  the  Hebrew  characteristics  could 
not  be  concealed,  whatever  the  color  and  stature 
miorlit  be. 

Aden  is  a  hot,  but  not  an  nnhcalthful  place. 
vSnakes  and  scorpions,   however,  are  numerous. 
A  stranrrc  comminjrlinor  of  nationalities   is  seen 
in  the  bazaar  in  the  afternoon.      Here  arc  wild 
Arabs    from    the    interior   of    Arabian    Yemen. 
Here  are  Turks,  K<ryptians,  various  tribes  from 
the  coast  of  Zanzibar,  untamed   Bedouins,  many 
kinds  of  Jews,  Parsis,  Mahrattas,  British  officers, 
civil  and  military,  and  sailors  from   manv  coun- 
tries, and  a  motley  crowd  of  indescribable  na- 
tionalities.    One  must  travel  far  in  many  coun- 
tries before  he  can  see  so  many  stranf,re  sijrhts  as 
are  presented  in  tliis  town  built  in  a  crater,  which 
was  formerly  the  fortress  of  Aden.     It  is  worth 
much  to  Great  Britain  that  she  should  have  a 
stroncrhold    at    the   entrance   to   the    Red    Sea. 
Wonderful  is  the  power  of  the  British  nation. 


1 


I 


f 


T 


.^1 


r 


45« 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


EXTKRING    THE     RkD     SEA. — At    IcUJ^tll     WC 

were  on  board  the  superb  steamer  "Oceana" 
from  Australia  on  its  way  to  London.  There 
was  no  small  amount  of  confusion  and  excite- 
ment as  the  transfer  was  made.  Glad  were  we 
to  leave  our  comparatively  small  steamer  for 
this  truly  nia<^nificent  ship,  one  of  the  three  or 
four  finest  of  the  P.  6c  ().  lines.  Here  we  met 
many  passenj^ers  on  their  way  from  Australia  to 
Great  Britain,  but  we  were  permitted  to  retain 
our  former  relationships  at  table,  so  that  the 
pleasant  friendships  I  had  formed  on  the  way 
from  Bombay  were  still  continued. 

Fearfully  hot  was  the  weather  as  we  lay  at 
Aden  ;  not  less  so  was  it  as  we  pushed  on  toward 
and  into  the  Red  Sea.  The  wind,  after  sweep- 
ing^ across  the  deserts  and  the  sandy  shores,  was 
burninji^  as  it  came  to  our  cheeks.  We  breathed 
hot  air,  air  heated  as  if  coming^  from  the  mouth 
of  a  ji^lowing  furnace.  It  is  not  too  much  to  say 
that  everybody  on  board  grasped  for  air.  A^ain 
and  again  I  longed  for  the  chilling  breath  often 
felt  on  the  Atlantic.  Many  passengers  had  their 
mattresses  brought  up  to  the  deck  and  placed 
there  with  the  hope  that  they  might  secure  a 
few  hours  of  sleep.  The  ladies  were  arranged 
on  one  side  of  the  deck  and  the  gentlemen  on 
the  other.  After  the  ladies  had  retired  most  of 
the  gentlemen  donned  their  pyjamas  and  walked 
up  and  down  the  deck  in  their  bare  feet.  It 
was  an  amusing  sight  to  see  the  chief  justice  of 
India  so  dressed,  with  feet  and  legs  from  the 
knee  exposed,  and  a  sailor  pouring  water  on 


TlIK    ARABIAN    SKA 


459 


on 


liiiii  ns  he  turned  himself  to  welcome  the  stream 
from  tl.e  hose.  All  who  slept  on  the  deck  had 
to  be  aroused  early  in  the  niorniuo  in  order  that 
the  decks  could  he  washed  and  the  ship  j)re- 
pared  for  the  duties  of  the  day. 

This  writer  can  stand  heat  without  much 
complaint  and  his  powers  of  endurance  had  been 
well  tested  before  reaching;  the  Red  vSea,  but  he 
IS  free  to  say  that  he  did  not  desire  any  atmos- 
phere with  a  greater  amount  of  caloric  than  he 
found  in  the  closing  week  of  vSeptember  sailing 
through  the  Red  Sea.  Never  was  a  journey 
over  the  Atlantic  with  its  Arctic  breath  so  great- 
ly appreciated  as  while  this  jomney  was  taken 
over  the  Red  Sea. 

Our  course  was  now  nearly  due  north,  and  we 
soon  left  l)eliind  us  the  island  of  Perim,  which 
occupies  the  narrowest  part  of  the  strait  of  liab- 
el-Mandeb.  This  island  is  distant  about  one 
mile  and  a  half  from  the  Arabian,  and  nine  or 
ten  miles  from  the  African,  coast.  It  is  only  a 
little  more  than  a  mile  wide,  and  not  quite  four 
miles  long.  It  has  been  called  the  "  island  of 
Diodorus."  Its  formation  is  purely  volcanic  and 
it  furnishes  excellent  harbor  advantages.  The 
highest  point  of  the  island  is  about  two  hundred 
and  fifty  feet  above  the  sea  level.  No  water  has 
been  found  on  the  island  and  very  little  can  be 
procured  from  the  mainland.  The  supply  is 
furnished  chiefly  by  a  condensing  apparatus. 

It  is  wonderful  what  adaptability  the  British 
nation  has  to  all  climates  and  countries ;  and 
they  are  the  only  people  who  have  ever  perma- 


m 

IF 


I 


:1 


i 


Mi: 


i'  M'l 


I' t 


,f 


^!-^ 


,,  I 


> 

I'i  1 

!  1     U}  ^ 

\" 

'li 

i 

1 

1 

1  ' 
4r  1 

460 


AROUND   TIIK    WORM) 


ncntly  occupiidlliis  island.  In  1513  Albncjuci que 
landed  upon  il  and  erected  a  j^reat  cross  tliereon, 
and  named  the  island  Vera  Cm/.  Later  it  was 
occupied  for  a  time  by  pirates,  but  in  1799  posse.s- 
sit)n  of  it  was  taken  by  the  Kast  Indian  Company. 
The  lijHithouse  on  the  highest  point  was  com- 
pleted in  i(S6i.  The  j;arrison  of  Aden  sends  a 
j^uard  to  this  island  to  protect  the  lighthouses 
and  coalinj^  stations. 

It  is  well  known  that  enormous  coral  reefs 
run  aloujT  the  coast  of  the  Red  Sea.  They 
usually  rise  out  of  deep  water  and  approach 
within  a  few  feet  of  the  surface.  Between  them 
and  the  east  coast  there  is  a  navigable  channel 
from  two  to  three  miles  wide  and  there  is  a  nar- 
rower channel  on  the  west.  It  is  claimed  by 
those  who  have  given  careful  study  to  the  whole 
subject  that  the  entire  coast  is  in  a  course  of  up- 
heaval. In  proof  of  this  the  books  call  attention 
to  the  fact  that  the  former  seaport  of  Adulis 
near  Alassowa  is  now  four  miles  inland.  These 
are  some  of  the  facts  which  make  navigation  in 
this  sea  so  dangerous.  The  tides  also  add  to 
the  danger,  as  they  are  very  uncertain.  At  Suez, 
where  they  are  most  regular,  they  are  seven  feet 
high  at  spring  tides  and  four  feet  at  neap  tides. 
During  the  months  of  July,  August,  and  Sep- 
tember, northerly  winds  prevail  and  they  drive  a 
very  great  quantity  of  water  out  of  the  Red  Sea. 
At  the  same  time  the  southwest  monsoon  is 
blowing  in  the  Indian  Ocean,  and  the  result  is 
that  the  level  of  ti\e  Red  Sea  is  often  three  feet 
lower  than  during  ihe  cooler  months  of  the  year  ; 


T     K    AkAIUAN    SI«:A 


461 


diiriiior  these  latter  months  the  nortlieast  inoii- 
soon  is  blowinjj  and  it  drives  tlie  water  throu^^h 
the  straits  and  into  the  Red  Sea.  These  are 
facts  which  have  their  l)earinj^  npon  the  passaj^e 
of  the  chiUlren  of  Israel  thron^h  the  northern 
arm  of  this  sea.  No  doubt  natural  causes  which 
still  operate  were  employed  by  (iod  in  accom- 
l)lishinj^^  the  miracle  which  gave  deliverance  to 
the  children  of  Israel. 


i  n 


*l  • 


h 


(  I. 


11 


i;  f 


r 


I 


U:- 


I-  "  ,t 


4 


Jl. 


I'' 


/^, 


,  ,'^ 


< 


XXXVI 


THE   RKD  SEA 


WK  continue  to  press  our  way  through  tliis 
sea.  Why  has  it  been  called  the  Red 
Sea?  That  question  has  been  frequently  asked 
and  to  it  no  conclusive  answer  has  been  given. 
The  lilack  Sea  is  not  a  black  sea,  the  Blue 
Danube  is  not  a  specially  blue  river,  and  the  Red 
Sea  is  not  a  red  sea.  Some  have  said  that  it  was 
called  the  Red  Sea  because  of  the  presence  of 
infinitesimal  infusoria  which  at  certain  seasons 
give  it  a  reddish  appearance.  Others,  that  the 
spawn  of  fish  at  certain  times  gave  it  this  color 
in  sections,  and  also  caused  a  distinct  odor  to 
arise  from  it  while  the  ships  were  passing  through 
the  affected  portions.  Perhaps  a  better  reason 
is  that  along  portions  of  the  shore  the  mountains 
have  a  delicate  pink  hue  or  at  times  a  reddish 
glare.  The  Hebrews  called  it  Yam  Suph,  Sea 
of  Weeds  or  Sedge.  Captains  of  various  ships 
and  other  authorities  differ  as  to  why  the  sea 
was  called  red.  The  fact  is  that  they,  as  a  rule, 
I'.ave  not  looked  carefullv  into  the  matter  and 
cannot  speak  authoritatively  on  the  subject. 
The  early  peoples  in  the  neighboring  countries 
called  it  "  Yam  Edom,"  as  part  of  it  washed  the 
country  of  the  Edomites,  and  the  word  Edom 
462 


'iMii-;  ki;i)  SKA 


4^>3 


nicans  nd.  Tlu'  (lUrks,  who  borrowed  the 
name  from  ihc  IMKLiiicians,  mistook  it  for  an  ap- 
pclative,  instead  of  a  proper  name,  and  rendered 
it  by  (ireek  words  which  mean  Red  Sea.  luy- 
thrns  means  the  same  in  (ireek  that  Ivdom  does 
in  IMuLMiician,  red.  This  is,  withont  donbt,  tlie 
trnc  cxphmation. 

Its  Ports  and  its  Colors. — 'IMie  extreme 
lenji^th  of  tlic  Red  Sea  is  al)ont  one  thoiisand  fonr 
hnndred  and  fifty  miles,  its  widtli  varies  from 
sixteen  miles  to  two  hnndred  at  its  broadest 
part.  Most  interestinjv  was  it  to  remember  that 
we  were  passing  between  Africa  on  the  one  side 
and  Arabia  on  the  other.  Here  we  were  skirt- 
ing the  coast  of  Arabia  Deserta.  Here  on  the 
African  shore  at  Asab  and  Obokh  the  French 
and  Italians  have  settlements.  Here  was  Mocha 
with  its  brijT^ht  shininj^  minarets  and  its  many 
snp^gestions  of  ^ood  coflfce.  Here  also  was  Hod- 
eida  with  a  popnlation  of  over  thirty  thonsand, 
a  point  at  which  European  steamers  often  call. 
The  bold  headlands  of  Abyssinia  were  visible 
on  our  port  side,  and  a  ranji^e  of  Arabian  moun- 
tains on  the  starboard  side. 

Here  was  Jiddah,  the  seaport  of  Mecca,  the 
resort  of  all  pious  Mohammedans.  This  is  an 
important  place,  and  is  distant  but  sixty  miles 
from  Mecca.  The  population  is  said  to  be  at 
least  forty  thousand.  The  town  is  enclosed  by 
a  wall  with  towers  and  on  the  sea  face  there  are 
two  forts.  For  this  part  of  the  world  the  town 
is  well   kept,  although   the  native   portions  are 


4()4 


ARorNI)    Tlllv    WOUIJ) 


very  poor.  It  is  said  tliat  tlic  native  jjopulatiim 
is  most  laiiatical  and  that  all  luiiopcans  must 
1)0  extremely  eaiefiil  in  their  words  and  aets  noi 
to  arouse  the  religious  hostility  of  these  fanatieal 
people.  The  iCast  };ate,  or  Mecea  j^ate,  of  the 
town  was  formerly  reserved  for  Mohammedans 
only.  Ivur*  eans  now  are  permitted  to  use  it, 
hut  they  mu>L  preserve  the  utmost  eaution  while 
they  are  in  so  saered  a  neighborhood.  In  this 
town  is  theso-ealled  tond)  of  Ivvc.  It  is  a  small 
moscpie,  between  two  h  .!^,  low  walls,  one  hun- 
dred and  forty  feet  in  lenj^th  ;  it  is  elaimed  that 
the  mother  of  us  all  is  buried  here.  If  this  is 
her  tomb  and  she  occupies  it  all  she  must  have 
been  a  j^ii;antic  ancestress.  This  town  was  bom- 
barded by  the  Hritish  in  KS58. 

On  a  Sunday  afternoon  the  writer  had  his  first 
j^limpsc  of  the  j^reat  Sinaitic  ranq^e.  It  was 
bathed  in  the  soft  pink  lij^htof  which  mention 
has  been  made.  There  is  a  rujLj^jedness,  a  stran<>e 
auo-ularity,  characteri/intr  its  dilTerent  elevations. 
Perhaps  not  even  in  Switzerland  arc  such  deli- 
cate shades  of  color  and  varied  outline  in  form 
observed.  All  the  richest  shades  on  the  Red 
Sea  and  its  wonderful  shores  are  seen  in  the 
eveniu'i^ ;  then  pink,  oreen,  blue,  and  purple  de- 
lightfully l^lend.  Tliese  shades  change  a*^ain 
and  attain  as  the  evcninj^  approaches.  At  times 
as  we  coasted  alon<^  the  sliorcs  of  Nubia  the  wind 
from  the  land  was  like  a  sirocco.  The  writer  has 
painfully  distinct  memories  of  the  scorchinp^  re- 
ceived for  at  least  two  days  while  sailing  through 
this  sea. 


Tine  Ri:i)  si; A 


4^>5 


Olio  of  tlie  iiiii>on;iiil  ports  of  Arahiu  on  tlio 
Red  vSca  is  Yciibo.  This  is  tlu-  poll  of  Mtdiiia 
which  is  Olio  hiiiKhod  and  tliiity  miles  to  tho 
oast.  Ik'ic  ;ilso  is  Suakiii,  oiio  of  tho  iiiipoitaiit 
towns  on  tlic  wost  side  of  tho  Rod  Soa.  It  is 
still  an  I{oypfian  town,  and  is  all  that  roinains  to 
tho  khodivo  of  tho  vast  vSondan  provinoos.'  Tho 
town  of  lioionico,  founded  !))•  Ptoloniy  IMiiladol- 
i)lins  and  called  after  his  inothor,  was  i)assed. 
Hero  is  tile  hoadland  of  Ras  Bellas.  It  is  opposite 
Yeiiho  oi:  the  Arabian  coast.  There  are  also  sev- 
eral other  i)lacos  nieiitionod  in  history  which  we 
do  not  stoj)  to  particiilari/.o. 

Close  to  tho  soa  is  Johal  oz-Zcit,  "  the  INIoiiii- 
taiii  of  Oil."  It  is  believed  that  pcti-donih  exists 
in  this  vicinity,  and  tho  IC^yptian  j^ovornnieiit 
has  spent  lar^e  siiiiis  of  iiionoy  in  the  attempt  to 
discover  it.  vSomc  oil  has  boon  found,  but  not 
in  snfficioiit  quantity  to  remniiorato  the  govern- 
ment for  tho  amoniit  expended. 

The  Red  vSea  at  Ras  Mohamnied  is  split  by 
♦he  peninsula  of  vSiiiai  into  parts;  one  of  these 
parts  is  called  the  gnlf  of  Suez,  and  is  about  one 
liundred  and  fifty  miles  loii<^v  and  from  ten  to 
oijrhteen  miles  wide;  the  other  i)art  is  the  oulf 
of  /vkabali,  and  is  about  one  hundred  miles  long, 
and  from  five  to  ten  miles  wide.  Between  these 
two  anus  ot  the  sea  rises  the  peninsula  of  vSiiiai. 
What  is  known  as  Mount  vSinai,  according  to 
popular  tradition,  is  not  seen  from  the  sea,  but 
the    Sinaitic    range    is    distinctly    observed,    as 

I  .Since  this,  however,  the  Soiidnn  has  been  reconquered  by  the 
British  and  Kgyptian  forces  under  Lord  Kitcliener. 

21'; 


l,:,i,. 


I.: 


(•*• 


fi  »t  , 


If. 


466 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


already  stated.  The  traditional  mountain  is 
tliirty-seven  ^»eograpliical  miles  distant  and  is 
hid  by  intervening  mountains. 

We  pressed  on  our  way  toward  Suez,  and  soon 
a  wonclerful  change  came  over  the  atmosphere. 
It  now  became  so  cool  that  a  light  overcoat  was 
very  welcome.  All  mariners  are  glad  when  they 
complete  their  journey  through  this  historic  sea. 
Portions  of  it  are  enormously  deep.  Its  shores, 
as  already  implied,  are  peculiarly  dangerous  be- 
cause of  the  coral  reefs.  Small  Arabian  vessels 
keep  near  the  shore,  as  their  captains  are  familiar 
with  their  soundings ;  but  the  great  ships  keep 
nearly  in  the  middle  of  the  sea.  European  sail- 
ing vessels  seldom  attempt  to  navigate  these 
dangerous  waters.  The  color  of  the  sea  is  a 
bluish-green,  or  greenish-blue.  When  the  water 
becomes  shoal  the  color  is  a  pale  green.  The 
sea  is  very  sensitive  to  the  clouds,  becoming  of 
a  dark  indigo  tint  when  certain  clouds  are  re- 
flected in  its  bosom. 

Suez. — Suez  derives  its  chief  historic  interest 
because  it  is  supposed  that  near  it  the  Israelites 
crossed  the  Red  Sea  under  the  guidance  of  Moses. 
INIodern  investigation,  however,  places  this  event 
farther  north.  Two  centuries  ago  Suez  was  only 
a  small  fishing  station,  but  early  in  the  nineteenth 
century  lines  of  steamers  began  to  run  regularly 
from  India  to  Suez.  In  1857  a  line  of  railway 
was  completed  from  Cairo  to  Suez  which  at  once 
grew  in  importance.  In  1863  ^  canal  was  com- 
pleted which  brought  fresh  water  to  Suez  from 


I 


THE   RKD   SKA 


467 


itain    IS 
and  is 

nd  soon 
)sphere. 
oat  was 
en  they 
)ric  sea. 

shores, 
:ous  be- 
i  vessels 
Familiar 
ps  keep 
tan  sail- 
:e  these 
;ea  is  a 
le  water 
1.  The 
niing  of 

are  re- 


interest 
sraelites 
f  Moses, 
is  event 
vas  only 
leteenth 
sgnlarly 
railway 
at  once 
as  com- 
lez  from 


the  Nile.     The  work  on  the  Snez  Canal  broncrht 
a  large   popnlation    to    the   town,    perhaps    not 
fewer  than  fifteen  thonsand  ;  but  when  the  canal 
vyas  completed  the  popnlation  decreased,  and  now 
the  place  is  largely  deserted.     The  transfer  of 
tlie  mails  to  Ismailia  also  greatly  injured  Suez. 
Ihere  is  now  a  railway  running  to  Ismailia 
and  many  passengers  leave  the  steamer  at  Suez 
and  go  directly  to  Ismailia  and   Cairo  by  train. 
I  preferred,  however,  to  have  some  experience  in 
sailing  on  the  Suez  Canal,  and  so  remained  on 
board  the  steamer.     There  are  but  few  features 
of  local   interest  in  Suez.     The  landscape  con- 
sists,  for  the  most  part,  simply  of  sand  and  water, 
and  signs  of  vegetation   are  rare.     Waste  and 
barrenness  are  characteristic  of  the  place.     The 
settlement  of  five  centuries  sprang  into  commer- 
cial importance,   as  we  have  seen,   diirino-  the 
building  of  the  canal,  but  now  it  has  reve-ted 
to  Its  early  insignificance.     The  population   is 
made  up  of  Arabs,  Maltese,  Greeks,  and  Italians. 
Ihere  is  an  Knglish  hospital,  and  on  theheiohts 
above  the  old  town  is  the  cM/^-/  of  the  khedlve. 
Those  who  have  the  time  make  an  excursion 
from   Suez   to  the   wells  of  Moses,  the   "  Ayun 
IMusa,"  or  in  the  singular,  "  Ain  Musa."     These 
wells  form  an  oasis  surrounded  with   tamarisk 
bushes  and  palm  trees.     Dean  Stanley  calls  it 
the  "  Richmond  of  Suez."     It  is  a  place  of  fre- 
quent resort  for  the  people  of  Suez.    Some  Arabs 
and  Europeans  now   live   there,  there  being   a 
few  houses  with  gardens,  fruit-trees,  and  vcoe- 
tables.     One  of  the  wells  is  built  up  of  massrve 


K    ■ 


' 


468 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


It   '  % 


4 


'':'> 


■'1 


5.' 


] 


!        :    ■  ' 


A 

r  ? 

' 

i 

i 

masonry,  and  is  doubtless  of  o^rcat  a(>;e.  These 
wells  are  associated  by  tradition  with  the  spot 
where  Moses  and  Miriam  sang  their  song  of 
triumph  over  the  destruction  of  Pharaoh  and  his 
host. 

Bishop  Hurst  calls  attention  to  the  mountain 
on  the  west  and  standing  back  from  the  gulf  of 
Suez.  It  rises  like  a  great  granite  trident.  He 
reminds  us  that  it  was  here  that  Professor  Palmer, 
of  Oxford,  was  murdered  a  few  years  ago.  A 
little  time  before  his  last  visit,  he  made  a  tour 
through  the  Sinaitic  peninsula  and  gave  us  the 
result  in  his  volume  entitled,  "  The  Exodus  of 
Israel."  He  was  then  in  P^gypt  in  the  service 
of  the  government  helping  to  promote  the  Egyp- 
tian campaign,  and  to  secure  the  aid  and  neu- 
trality of  the  wild  and  dangerous  Sinaitic  tribe. 
Unfortunately  he  carried  with  him  a  large  amount 
of  money.  He  was  seized,  blindfolded,  and 
hurled  down  a  precipice  from  the  top  of  a  moun- 
tain. His  murderers  were  condemned  to  death, 
and  were  taken  to  different  places  and  executed. 

Thr  Great  Canal. — The  Suez  Canal  vas 
opened  in  1870.  Its  length  is  put  down  in  round 
numbers  as  one  hundred  miles.  From  Suez  to 
Ismailia  it  tends  to  the  west,  but  between  Ismailia 
and  Port  Said,  a  distance  of  about  forty-two  miles, 
it  runs  due  north  and  south.  This  canal  has 
changed  populations  and,  to  some  degree,  civili- 
zations along  its  shores  and  in  contiguous  towns. 
It  is  nominally  under  the  control  of  the  French, 
but  as  a  matter  of  fact  a  large  amount  of  the  stock 


THK    RKD   SlvA 


These 

the  spot 

song^  of 

I  and  his 

lountaiii 
:  gulf  of 
■nt.     He 

Pahiier, 
aj^o.  A 
e  a  tour 
i  us  the 
xochis  of 

service 
le  Egyp- 
iid  iieu- 
ic  tribe. 

amount 
ed,  and 
a  nioun- 
0  deatli, 
<ecuted. 

iial  was 
n  round 
Suez  to 
[sniailia 
o  miles, 
nal  has 

',  ClVlll- 

>  towns. 
Prench, 
le  stock 


469 


is  owned  by  Great  Britain.  There  was  an  effort 
made  some  time  ago  to  open  another  canal  run- 
ning nearly  parallel. 

The  present  canal  was  not  and  is  not  of  suffi- 
cient  size  to  accommodate  the  traffic;    but   it 
has   been   widened   and   straightened   at  points, 
and  probably  no  other  will  for  some  time  be 
opened.     Its  width  at  the  water  line  where  the 
banks  are  low  is  three  hundred  and  twenty-eight 
feet ;  in  deep  cuttings,  one  hundred  and  ninety 
feet ;  at  the  base,  seventy-two  feet ;  and  its  depth 
IS  twenty-six  feet.     Stations  are  frequent  on  its 
banks  and  tr  .ffic  is  regulated  by  what  is  known 
on  railways  as   the    block   system.     Additional 
sidings  are  yearly  constructed  and  navigation  is 
thus  greatly  facilitated.     Vessels  pass  through 
in  the  night  as  in  the  daytime,  electric  lights 
being  numerous,  and  no  vessel  must  sail  more 
rapidly  than  six  miles  an  hour. 

Entering  the  canal  Sunday  night  at  Suez  we 
were  early  the  next  morning  at  Ismailia.     Here 
I  was  met  by  a  steam  launch  which  bore  me  to 
the  shore.     No  other  passeiv.ers  left  the  steamer 
at  this  point.     The  weather  was  most  cool  and 
coinfortable,  and  I  much  enjoyed  the  fresh  air 
of  the  morning.     I  was  up  quite  early  so  as  to 
get  a  g  impse  of  the  Bitter  Lakes  before  I  should 
leave  the  steamer.     These  lakes  are  the  ancient 
gulf  of  Herceopohs.     There  is  at  the  north  and 
south  ends  of  the  chief  lake  an  iron  lighthouse 
Some  writers  state  that  the  passage  of  the  Israel- 
ites was  through  this  lake.     The  town  of  Sera- 
peum,  named  from  the  supposed  remains  of  a 


fi 


I  ;* 


',,1! 


m 


470 


AROUND   THK    WORLD 


temple  of  Serapis,  was  in  this  vicinity.  Lake 
Tinisali,  or  the  Lake  of  the  Crocodile,  is  in  the 
vicinity ;  and  it  is  affirmed  by  some  anthorities 
that  the  Red  Sea  once  extended  to  this  lake. 

Jnles  Verne,  in  his  unique  way,  tells  us  that 
there  is  a  subterranean  passage  uniting  the  Red 
Sea  with  the  Mediterranean  Sea,  and  in  the 
same  spirit  he  tells  how  certain  fish  were  caught 
and  marked  with  rings,  then  thrown  into  the 
Red  Sea,  and  that  these  fish  afterward  were 
found  in  tlie  Mediterranean.  There  may  be 
more  fact  than  fancy  in  his  suggestion.  It  is 
not  impossible  also  that  the  Red  Sea  and  the 
Mediterranean  Sea  were  married  long  before  the 
completion  of  M.  de  Lesseps'  great  enterprise  of 
opening  the  Suez  Canal.  There  are  places  of 
interest  on  the  canal  from  Ismailia  to  Port  Said, 
but  these  I  did  not  have  the  opportunity  of  see- 
ing. 

Ismailia  is  a  town  of  perhaps  four  thousand 

population,  and  much  of  the  business  that  once 
was  done  in  Suez  is  now  done  in  Ismailia.  As 
a  rule,  mails  and  passengers  for  Egypt  are  landed 
here.  The  road  which  leads  from  the  landing- 
place  crosses  the  Fresh  Water  Canal  and  is  lined 
with  acacia  and  other  trees.  There  are  in  Ismai- 
lia quarters  occupied  by  Greeks,  by  Italians,  by 
Arabs,  and  by  other  nationalities.  The  resi- 
dence of  the  khedive  was  used  as  a  military  hos- 
pital when  the  English  occupied  the  town  in 
1882.  One  house,  which  is  pointed  out  to  all 
visitors,  belongs  to  M.  de  Lesseps.  There  is  a 
garden   in  which   there  are  objects  of   interest 


« 


.,!'[;' 


.1 


THE   RED  SEA 


471 


Lake 
^  in  the 
liorities 
ake. 
us  that 
the  Red 
in  the 
:  caught 
nto  the 
:d  were 
may  be 
I.  It  is 
and  the 
;fore  the 
rprise  of 
►laces  of 
)rt  Said, 
y  of  see- 

Ihousand 
lat  once 
lia.     As 
e  landed 
landing- 
is  lined 
n  Ismai- 
ians,  by 
le   resi- 
ary  hos- 
own  in 
t  to  all 
ere  is  a 
interest 


taken  from  historic  towns  in  different  parts  of 
Egypt. 

Ismailia  was  really  founded  in  1863,  that  it 
might  serve  as  the  center  for  the  administration 
of  the  work  on  the  Suez  Canal.  This  work  was 
begun  simultaneously  at  Suez  and  at  Port  Said. 
The  canal  was  named  after  the  khedive.  The 
favorable  situation  of  Ismailia,  on  the  northern 
shore  of  Lake  Timsah  and  on  the  railways  lead- 
ing from  Alexandria  and  Cairo  to  Suez,  seems 
likely  to  make  the  town  permanent  and  to  en- 
able it  to  become  a  place  of  considerable  im- 
portance. 

A  Glance  at  Egypt. — Although  I  had  now 
been  in  many  countries,  I  must  say  that  the 
realization  that  I  was  really  in  Egypt,  that 
country  so  associated  with  biblical,  mythical, 
and  classical  story,  gave  me  at  least  a  mild  sen- 
sation. Egypt,  as  we  all  know,  is  a  large  and 
most  important  country.  It  long  has  been  a 
dependency  of  the  Turkish  empire,  bounded  by 
the  Mediterranean  on  the  north  and  by  the  Red 
Sea  on  the  East. 

Egypt  proper  extends  south  to  the  first  cata- 
ract of  the  Nile,  and  west  beyond  the  oases  of 
the  Libyan  Desert  to  the  frontier  of  Barca. 
The  rule  of  the  viceroy,  however,  has  been  ex- 
tended over  a  vast  region  to  the  south,  officially 
called  the  Soudan,  and  comprising  Lower  Nubia, 
Dongola,  Kardofan,  Khartum,  the  provinces  of 
the  White  Nile,  and  since  1865  also  the  coasts  of 
the  Red  Sea  to  the  seaport  town  of  IMassowah. 


472 


AROUND   THK   WORLD 


^;^l 


ii  ( 


i  ' 


M 


V 


,■ 

n 

t  ' 

'1 

ill 

..: 

Including  all  this  territory,  the  area  of  the 
Kgyptian  empire  is  estimated  to  be  seven  hun- 
dred and  thirty  thousand  square  miles.  It  is 
difficult,  however,  to  speak  with  certainty  re- 
garding the  area,  as  all  depends  on  what  is  meant 
by  the  Egyptian  empire  and  upon  the  exactness 
of  the  terminology  employed.  Some  extend  the 
empire  until  it  embraces  one  million  square 
miles,  and  contains  a  population  of  at  least 
eleven  million. 

The  fertile  portion  of  the  country  is  the  plain 
of  the  river  Nile.  Every  year  in  June  this  river 
rises  and  overflows  its  banks,  the  receding  waters 
leaving  the  land  covered  with  mud.  This  river 
is  an  indescribable  benediction  to  this  great 
country.  The  trade  of  the  country  is  largely  in 
cotton,  wheat,  and  sugar.  It  gave  one  no  little 
pleasure  to  realize  that  he  was  on  the  soil  of 
Egypt,  which  was  once  the  most  powerful  kin/^- 
dom  on  the  globe.  In  this  land  there  are  still 
wonderful  ruins  of  temples  and  other  great 
buildings. 

I  was  obliged  to  spend  the  forenoon  in  Ismailia, 
as  the  train  for  Cairo  did  not  start  until  one 
o'clock  in  the  afternoon.  About  that  hour  I 
started  for  the  attractive  city  of  Cairo.  For  a 
time  there  was  nothing  but  barren  sand  hills 
on  both  sides  of  the  train  as  we  journeyed  on- 
ward. We  made  a  brief  stop  at  Tel  el-Keber. 
Here  the  English  fought  the  battle  with  Arabi 
Pasha  which  virtually  closed  the  campaign  in 
Egypt.  All  about  us  were  still  evidences  of  the 
war  which  had  taken  place.     One  of  my  travel- 


THK   RKD  SKA 


473 


in<^  companions  had  been  a  soldier  in  that  catn- 
])aign  and  had  participated  in  that  closing  battle. 
He  gave  thrilling  details  of  the  night  march,  of 
the  sndden  arrival,  and  of  the  nnexpectcd  open- 
ing of  the  battle.  There  is  the  cemetery  whose 
modest  white  stones  mark  the  last  resting-place 
of  many  brave  soldiers  nnknown  to  fame,  bnt 
who  gave  their  lives  for  qncen  and  conntry. 
No  great  nionnmental  shaft  marks  their  graves, 
but  life  was  as  dear  to  tlif  n,  and  their  death  was 
as  sad  to  those  who  loved  them,  as  the  life  and 
death  of  the  most  honored  generals  of  great 
wars  and  heroic  battles. 

Soon  we  reached  the  region  where  the  Nile  is 
seen  and  its  beneficent  effects  are  produced. 
My  first  sight  of  the  Nile  gave  no  small  degree 
of  pleasure.  All  about  us  were  rich  fields  care- 
fully cultivated  and  laden  with  bountiful  pro- 
ducts of  various  kinds.  Cotton  raising  is  now 
an  important  industry  in  Egypt.  There  are  cer- 
tain kinds  of  cotton  grown  in  that  conntry  whose 
fiber  is  finer,  it  is  said,  than  that  of  the  cotton  of 
any  other  land. 

The  old  methods  of  cultivating  the  soil  are 
still  practised.  Here  are  small  herds  of  brown 
buffaloes,  and  here  peasants  are  irrigating  the 
fields  with  buckets  and  using  the  shadoof.  In- 
stead of  the  sterile  fields  all  now  is  green  and 
smiling ;  on  every  side  we  see  beautiful  rural 
pictures.  We  are  now  approaching  Zagazig. 
This  town  is  in  considerable  part  an  outgrowth 
of  the  building  of  the  Suez  Canal.  Here  we 
see  Frenchmen,  Englishmen,  Arabians,  and  rep- 


>j 


T 


474 


AROUND  THP:   world 


II    I  ', ' 


■M 


'!  i.  'i'-<« 


resentatives  of  many  other  nationalities.  We 
are  liasteninj^  to  Cairo.  Wonderful  tliou<jlits 
filled  the  mind  as  in  silence  this  part  of  the 
journey  was  taken. 

This  is  indeed  Egypt ;  this  is  the  land  of  the 
Pharaohs  who  built  the  pyramids,  the  sphinx, 
and  other  of  the  oldest  and  grandest  monuments, 
and  who  dug  a  canal  from  the  Nile  to  the  Red 
Sea.  This  is  the  land  in  which  the  Israelites 
suffered  and  from  which  they  marched  in  tri- 
umph. Here  the  Pharaohs  ruled  until  about 
525  B.  c,  and  then  the  Persians  conquered 
Egypt.  This  is  the  land  which  Alexander  the 
Great  conquered  from  the  Persians  in  332  b.  c, 
and  founded  Alexandria  as  the  capital.  This  is 
the  land  which  Ptolemy  Soter,  one  of  Alex- 
ander's generals,  ruled,  and  he  and  his  succes- 
sors, thirteen  in  all,  are  known  in  the  history  of 
the  world  as  the  Ptolemys.  Under  these  rulers 
Egypt  was  prosperous.  They  founded  great 
schools,  and  the  vast  library  and  museum  at 
Alexandria,  making  that  city  the  rival  of  Athens 
and  Rome.  This  is  the  land  where  Cleopatra 
lived,  loved,  triumphed,  and  finally  disappeared 
in  defeat,  darkness,  and  death. 

Egypt  became  a  Roman  province  30  B.  c.  In 
A.  D.  640  the  Arabs  conquered  it.  For  two  cen- 
turies they  held  it  as  a  province,  and  then  it  be- 
came an  independent  Mohammedan  kingdom. 
Here  the  great  Saladin  ruled,  here  the  Mame- 
lukes, originating-  as  slaves  brought  from  coun- 
tries near  the  Caspian  Sea,  became  so  powerful 
that  they  ruled  or  chose  the  rulers  of  the  country. 


»  ;■ 
.  I 


THK   RKD   SKA 


We 


475 


In   1517  the  Turks  conquered   tlie  country  and 
are  still  its  nominal  masters. 

Yonder  is  Cairo!  Look  just  a  few  miles  dis- 
tant and  behold  the  dim  outline  of  the  ever- 
lasting pyramids!  We  get  our  first  glimpse  of 
the  pyramids  through  the  shimmering  haze  of 
the  evening  as  they  are  lined  against  the  even- 
ing sky.  The  heart  beats  quickly  ;  a  thousand 
memories  rush  upon  the  tourist ;  he  cannot  but 
think  of  some  of  the  descriptions  in  the  "Thou- 
sand and  One  Nights."  Cairo  was  once  the 
wonder  and  delight  of  all  tourists.  Its  women 
were  spoken  of  as  "the  black-eyed  virgins  of 
Paradise."  Its  houses  were  considered  as  pal- 
aces, and  in  the  glowing  words  of  the  hump- 
back, "  Cairo  ...  is  the  mother  of  the  world." 


I 


U 


t 


m 


^■i 


is' 


(i 


l:: 


XXXVII 


« ») 


CAIRO,    "THE   VICTORIOUS 

CAIRO  was  founded  in  A.  n.  970,  by  Johar, 
wlio  was  a  representative  of  the  P'atiniites ; 
and  in  coninienioration  of  the  conqnestof  Kgypt 
he  called  it  HI  Kahirah.  He  made  PVstat  his 
capital  at  the  first,  bnt  in  the  twelfth  century 
Cairo  became  the  capital.  The  crusaders  lai  1 
siege  to  Cairo  in  11 71,  but  finally  withdrew  on 
the  approach  of  a  Syrian  army,  and  after  having 
accepted  a  large  sum  of  money.  In  1786  the 
Turks  defeated  the  Mameluke  beys  in  a  battle 
before  Cairo,  and  took  possession  of  the  city ; 
but  four  years  later  they  lost  it,  and  it  was  at 
that  time  ravaged  by  fearful  plagues.  It  was 
taken  by  Napoleon  Bonaparte  in  1798. 

With  a  few  general  facts  of  this  kind  in  mind, 
we  drove  rapidly  to  the  hotel,  and  found  that 
here,  as  in  so  many  other  places,  the  tide  of 
travel  had  passed,  or  had  not  yet  come.  There 
are  some  advantages  in  traveling  out  of  season  : 
hotels  and  railway  trains  are  not  crowded,  guides 
are  out  of  employment,  and  prices  of  all  that 
one  desires  to  secure  are  much  lower  than  during 
the  height  of  the  season. 


The  First  City  of  Africa.- 
476 


-The  Arabic 


CAIRO,  "THIC    VICTORIOrS 


.  M 


477 


name  for  Cairo  is  Kaliirali,  incaniii}^  "The  Vic- 
torious." The  fuller  name  is  Musr  el-Kahirah. 
Natives  call  the  town  simply  Musr;  it  is  the 
capital  of  Iv^ypt,  the  most  ])opular  city  of  Africa, 
and  next  to  Conslautiu«)j)k'  the  most  populous 
of  the  Turkish  empire.  It  is  on  a  sandy  plain, 
and  about  one  mile  from  the  Nile  on  its  east 
side.  It  is  about  ten  miles  above  the  apex  of  the 
Delta  of  the  Nile,  and  one  hundred  and  twenty 
miles  southeast  of  Alexandria.  The  population 
must  be  about  four  hundred  thousand,  three- 
fourths  of  wdiom  are  probably  Mohammedans. 
There  are  not  fewer  than  sixty  thousand  Copts, 
and  the  rest  of  the  population  consists  chiefly  of 
Jew.s,  Cireeks,  Armenians,  and  luiropcans.  The 
southeast  part  of  the  city,  including  the  citadel, 
is  built  upon  a  spur  of  the  Mokkatam  Mountains. 
The  circumference  of  the  city  is  not  less  than 
seven  miles.  It  is  surrounded  by  a  wall  divided 
by  a  number  of  parts,  the  Mohammedans,  Jews, 
Christians  and  others,  each  havinj^  a  part.  Some 
of  the  quarters  are  separated  from  one  another 
by  ^aiQS  which  are  closed  at  uij^ht. 

The  city  presents  from  a  distance  a  truly  en- 
chanting spectacle ;  but,  like  most  Oriental  cities, 
when  entered  its  streets  are  seen  to  be  crooked, 
narrow,  and  most  filthy.  The  houses  of  the 
poor  are  made  of  mud  or  of  sun-baked  bricks. 
The  richer  people  live  in  houses  of  brick,  wood, 
or  of  soft  stone  quarried  in  the  Mokattam  Hills. 
These  latter  houses  are  usually  three  stories 
high,  while  the  houses  of  the  poor  are  usually 
one  storv.     Some  of  the  streets  are  so  narrow 


t 


•I  ' 


i. 


a 


If.  .I 


h' 


1/ 


n-  I 


fll'^t' 


478 


AROUND    TIIlv    WORM) 


llKit  loaded  donkeys  and  camels  scarcely  leave 
room  for  people  to  pass  ;  hut  many  of  tlie  new 
streets  are  wide  and  attractive. 

Tl'.ese  newer  streets  are  ])aved  and  well- 
watered,  hut  the  older  streets  are  as  dust)-  as 
they  are  dirty.  Rain  falls  hut  rarely  at  Cairo, 
and  at  times  the  water  conveyed  hy  the  Nile 
hecomes  stai;nant  and  poisonous.  Horses,  until 
comparatively  recent  years,  were  seldom  used, 
the  usual  mode  of  conveyance  heint^  \}\  donkeys; 
hut  the  newer  and  wider  streets  make  the  use  of 
carriages  practicahle.  The  principal  puhlic  place 
is  t!ie  Kshekiyah.  Around  this  i)lace  are  many 
hotels,  some  of  them  hein**-  really  modern  and 
excellent,  jud*^ed  hy  any  standard. 

The  bazaars  are  amono^  the  most  attractive  in 
any  city  in  the  Kast,  almost  as  attractive  as  those 
of  Damascus.  One  has  to  exercise  self-control 
not  to  part  with  all  his  possessions,  and  not  to 
draw  upon  his  letter  of  credit  for  its  full  amount, 
when  he  wanders  throu»^h  these  bazaars  with  his 
drai^^oman  and  several  shopmen  determined  to 
make  him  purchase  the  attractive  wares  exposed 
for  sale. 

There  are  in  Cairo  many  public  fountains 
and  attractive  squares.  Tlie  citadel  is  built  on 
a  hill  overlooking-  the  city.  Within  its  walls 
are  the  palace  of  the  khedivc,  the  mint,  the  bar- 
racks for  soldiers,  and  one  of  the  o^reat  and  beau- 
tiful mosques  of  the  city.  Indeed,  the  mosques 
are  the  o;reat  boast  of  Cairo  ;  there  are  said  to 
be  not  fewer  than  four  hundred  of  them,  and 
some  of   them  are  of   the  noblest  specimens  of 


CAIKO,  "run   VICToKlons"  47n 

lassa,,  ,s  the.  ,„„st   colcl.n.tcl.      L  .    Ir.u  c' 

apMhccnt.      Us  interior  is  a„  >,nro.,f,     "o  „• 

•'>.■..,;„,.  a  part  of  tl,o  sacred  c.lillce   is      ,e 

toiMl,.      1  la-  „ios<,i,c-  !•; l-Azhar  is  well  known  for 

"s  s.vn,n,etr,ca!  architecture,  an.I  fo    a  cZt 

'>  vvlMch   hun,lre,ls  of  stn.lents  resort    cohi'" 

■"."I  .that    this    collcffo    rs    the   ^reat   center  of 
A  al„c   st,„Iy   an,l    of    the    Arabian    lite  at  , re 
1  ic  n,os,|ne  of  Tulnn.  was  fo„n,le,l  in  a   i    X^o 

quarter  ,s  always  a  point  .If  interest  IraT  e  of 
IK-  ancent  Christian  church  fonu.l    he  e       a, 
hccause  o    the  tradition  that   Mary  an.I    -ose 
M.  the   tn  ant  Jesus  resided   in    t1,at  vicin    y 
I.el' rr.uk  quarter  is  the  library  of  the  l^yp: 
a      Society      There   are   also    Protestant  and 
Cathohc  charuable  institutions  in  Cair.,      I  h" 
I  .0  opportnu.ty  of  seeinjr  a   part  of  the  wo?k 
«lo"o  by  an  Au.erican  reliK.ions  society 

At  certain  seasons  of  the  year  Cairo  is  nUe.l 
with   liritons  and  Americans.     Knglisl,  is      e 
spoken   ,1,  all   the  hotels  and  is  often  heard 

e  puMrc  streets.     Now  Kreuch  is  ,>ract  cal 

l.e  lauKuage  of  trade  and  of  social  life.    ?  euch 

s   .spoken    everywhere.      Cairo   strikes   oi  e    as 

'e.ng  to  an  nnn.sual  degree  like  Paris   havu/a 

large  nniuberof  „y/.,.  „n  the  streets  aid  ,a^,;' 

other  suuilar  features.     In  the  hotels  the  "1^ 


/'     i 


1 1 


Mi  , 


pwHt^'i 


480 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


newspapers  in  English,  French,  German,  Greek, 
Italian,  and  Arabic.  This  is  truly  p  cosmopolitan 
and  polyglot  city. 

One  must  visit  Boolak  and  Musr  el-Aatik. 
This  name  is  given  to  distinguish  the  town  from 
Cairo  proper.  This  suburb  is  called  Fostat,  and 
sometimes  by  Europeans,  Old  Cairo.  From  Fos- 
tat a  canal  runs  through  Cairo,  which  probably 
formed  a  part  of  the  ancient  canal  connecting 
the  Nile  with  the  Red  Sea.  It  contains  among 
its  ancient  buildings  one  structure  called  the 
"granary  of  Joseph."  It  is  interesting  to  know 
that  this  building  is  still  used  as  a  storage  of 
grain. 

On  the  island  of  Roda,  which  quietly  nestles 
in  the  bosom  of  the  river,  is  the  celebrated  Nilo- 
metcr.  This  is  a  rude  method  by  means  of  a 
graduated  column  for  indicating  the  height  of 
the  Nile  during  its  annual  overflow.  The  Nilo- 
meter  is  very  old,  just  liow  old  no  one  may  at- 
tempt to  affirm.  This  island  is  reached  by  a 
ferry-boat  and  here  the  courteous,  and  doubtless 
veracious,  gardener  will  point  out  the  exact 
place  where  IMoses  was  rescued  by  the  king's 
daughter.  We  saw  here  also  specimens  of  the 
henna  plant,  from  which  comes  the  dye  in  which 
the  dragoman  and  many  other  men  and  women 
dip  their  finger-nails  and  the  palms  of  their 
hands. 

A  visit  to  the  Shoobra  palace,  in  the  vicinity 
of  Cairo,  gives  the  opportunity  of  enjoying  a 
charmingly  beautiful  drive  through  an  avenue 
of  svcamore  and  lebbcc.     This   is  one  of   the 


Vf 


^i<0,  "THK   VICTORIOUS"  481 

niost  favorite  cirive.7^rdd^;;;rand  ^^ts  in 
the  evening,  twilight.     Here  every  sty^e  o    c. 
nage  may  be  met.      Here  the  hKlieJof  Uie  Inrem 
are   supposed   to   ride  at    tinio^  '^•,p;/''^  ^''^^^"i 

.  g  garde„s  and  tl,e  apartments  of    l,e    '.Uace 

Ijoolnl    M  %.yPt'an  antiquities  in  the 

Boolak  Museum  carries  the  mind  back  to  t  e 
age  of  the  great  Cheops.     There  are  tn  the  dif 

bridge  and   H,",  ^"   '^'  remarkably  fi„e  iron 
onciore,  and   then  drive  over  a   level    rr^n.i        n 

t>irnctnres.     I  was  well   prepared   bv  nil    T   1,0^ 
.ead  and  heard  to  meet  as '^^  a^lUed    he    as 
cay  Arabs  who  make  life  a  burden  to  a  1  who" 
visit  tlie  pyramids.     They  wait  to  beo-    to  as 
sist,  or  to  steal,  and  perhaps  to  n.nrde;  if  tlfe" 
opportunity  afforded.     For'  a   few   pennies   t 

S.riin^:;re3T"aTt"''^ 

lias  been  tested  rdtSf-it  doe^l^'S,^?' '^ 

aDDronrli^r!      'Ti  ^"  ^^  ^^^ro  was 

approached.     They  were  seen  also  from  the  cit- 
adel  as  one  looked  ont  over  the  city,-the  plain, 

21'  ' 


h  )' 


I     '.■ 


'I 


V,      / 


ij: 


ii 


482 


AROUND   THE    WORl.D 


the  river,  the  Mokattam  Hills,  nnd  then  the 
pyramids,  ten  miles  distant.  We  know  thai 
pyramids  are  fonnd  in  Persia,  India,  and  Mex- 
ico, but  the  most  celel)rated  are  those  of  Egypt. 
They  are  built  of  blocks  of  stone  so  large  that 
the  builders  must  have  had  some  unknown  ma- 
chinery for  lifting  them  into  their  position.  Their 
outside,  doubtless,  was  covered  with  smaller 
stones  and  cement  so  as  to  form  a  smooth  sur- 
face ;  but  this  surface  is  now  broken,  leaving  the 
stones  like  stairs  on  which  one  can  readily  climb. 
The  largest  pyramid,  that  of  Cheops,  is  four 
hundred  and  fifty  feet  higl;  and  was  formerly  at 
least  thirty  feet  higher  than  at  present.  The 
others  are  smaller,  but  equally  synnnetrical, 
though  not  so  imposing.  Many  statistics  might 
be  given  regarding  these  wonderful  structures, 
but  it  is  not  difficult  to  become  possessed  of 
these  facts  if  one  desires  them. 

What  is  the  impression  which  they  produce? 
They  certainly  are  large  and  very  old.  There  they 
stand  upon  the  border  of  the  desert  exhibiting 
the  folly  of  the  monarchs  who  built  them  to 
perpetuate  their  fame.  Mr.  Ballou  well  says 
that  they  are  "  symbols  of  ancient  tyranny  and 
injustice,  tears  and  death."  The  builders  erected 
them  to  make  their  own  names  immortal,  and 
now  the  names  of  these  builders  are  unknown  ; 
there  is  a  little  doubt  even  as  to  the  purpose  for 
which  they  were  erected.  Some  say  that  it  was 
to  prevent  the  sand  from  blowing  in  upon  the 
land.  Others  that  they  were  erected  as  great 
granaries.     Others  that  they  were  built  for  as- 


lien  the 
)w  that 
d   Mex- 

Egypt. 
ge  that 
►wn  iiia- 
.  Their 
sinaller 
Dth  sur- 
/inpr  the 
Y  climb. 

is  four 
iierlv  at 
t.  The 
letrical, 
s  might 
iictiires, 
;ssed   of 

"odiice  ? 
^'e  they 
libitiiig 
!iem  to 
11  says 
my  and 
erected 
:al,  and 
cnown  ; 
Dose  for 
t  it  was 
)on  the 
s  great 
for  as- 


CAIRO,  "T.iK   VICTORIOUS"  483 

tronomical  purposes  ;  and  still  other7  that  thcv 
were  intended  to  be  great  tombs.  Doubtless, 
tlie  last  IS  the  corred  supposition,  but  thev 
have  really  failed  of  their  puipose.  ^ 

rhey  Illustrate  no  genius  in  design  or  execu- 
tion.    Given  time  enough  and  money  enough  and 
Americans  to-day  could  erect  far  more  nias.'ive 
s  nic tures      They  exhibit   no  art,  and  no  taste 
and  they  have  no  religious  significance.     They 
are  illustrations  of  gigantic  folly  and  unpardon- 
able  ambition.     They  are  simply  vast  piles  of 
stone  without  proofs  of   architectural   skill    or 
artistic  genius,  or  religious  emotion.     When  you 
Have  said   that  they  are  big  and  that  thev  are 
od,you   have  said  all  that  really  can  be  said. 
Mr.  Ballon  has  well  remarked  that  in  the  cave 
temples  of  Elephanta,  Ellora,  and  Carlee,  in  the 
Idolatrous  Hindu   temples  of  Madura,  Tanjore 
and  Trichinopoly,   the  shrines  of  Cevlon    the 
pagodas  of  China,  and   the  temples  of  Nikko 
there  is  some  thought  of  an  elevating  sentiment 
a  grandand  reverential  idea,  a  suggestion  of  re- 
ligious instinct  .md  aspiration  ;  buHn  the  pyra- 
mids we  have  only  an  embodiment  of  personal 
pride   which   ended    without    accomplishing   a 
worthy  ambition.  ^        ^ 

All  histories  relating  to  these  vast  structures 
aie  involved  in  doubt.  Some  claim  that  Egypt 
was  seven  thousand  j-ears  old  and  was  a  great 
and  prosperous  nation  before  the  building  of 
these  monstrous  monuments,  but  no  one  can 
speak  with  authority  touching  any  of  these  mat- 
ters.    In    the   smallest  of   the  three   pyramids 


l!^' 


r 


■*.■   I 


u 


484 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


that  of  Mycerinns,  a  inunimy  of  a  liuniaii  being 
was  found  vvliicli  can  now  be  seen  in  the  British 
Museum.  Many  romantic  stories  are  told  of  the 
beautiful  Egyptian  princess  who  erected  this 
pyramid,  but  all  these  stories  are  mere  tradi- 
tions, and  they  furnish  no  satisfactory  evidence 
regarding  the  time  when,  the  persons  by  whom, 
or  the  purposes  for  which  these  great  structures 
were  erected. 

The  Sphinx. — The  sphinx,  however,  is  worthy 
of  careful  study  during  repeated  visits.  No  one 
who  has  ever  seen  that  calm,  majestic  face  and 
figure  can  forget  either.  A  few  liundred  feet 
from  the  pyramids  stands  this  colossal  mystery. 
The  Arabs  call  it  "  The  Pother  of  Terror."  Its 
body  and  mos*^^  of  its  head  has  been  hewn  out  of 
a  solid  rock  where  it  stands.  The  paws  and 
body  of  an  animal  are  represented  with  the  head 
and  bust  of  a  human  being.  Tlie  face  is  said 
to  be  thirty  feet  long  and  fifteen  feet  wide.  Per- 
haps this  mysterious  figure  is  much  older  than 
the  pyramids.  It  would  seem  as  if  it  formed 
part  of  an  ancient  temple  and  perhaps  between 
the  lion-like  paws  of  the  sphinx  there  was  an 
altar  or  sanctuary.  Many  archaeologists  believe 
that  human  beings  were  once  offered  between 
these  paws  as  sacrifices  to  some  divinity.  It  was 
a  striking  thought  of  a  modern  painter  to  place 
here  the  child  Jesus,  and  Joseph  and  Mary. 
For  thousands  and  thousands  of  years  this 
strange  figure  has  looked  out  on  the  sand  of  the 
desert.     Its  face  is  now  mutilated,  showing  the 


CAIRO,  "THK    VICTORIOUS"  485 

furrows  of  time  and  of  stornisTbutTtirfthe^sad, 
mystic  peaceful,  fascinating  expression  remains. 
One  who  has  seen  the  bronze  image  of  Dai-Butsu, 
at  kamakura  111  Japan,  cannot  but  observe  tlie 
similarity  in  expression  on  the  countenances  of 
these  two  figures,  and  also  in  the  strange  fasci- 
nation which  both  exercise  upon  the  beholder 
Dynasties  have  risen  and  fallen  ;  republics  have 
danced  into  light  and  died  into  shade  ;  and  all 
the  vvhile  this  mystic,  majestic  figure,  defaced, 
crumbling  in  parts,  has  looked  out  in  its  calm: 

s^ofTg;;:^''^  "^'  "''^^"^^  ^" ''''  ^--^ 

&>  F^^>fei"i.  ^diro.  It  is  a  town  of  inanv 
manufactures,  and  a  central  station  of  the  over- 
land route  to  India.  Once  there  were  here  slave 
markets,  and  although  the  trade  is  prohibited  in 
the  Ottoman  Empire,  it  is  said  still  to  be  carried 
on  clandestinely  in  Cairo.  There  is  a  lucrative 
trade  111  precious  stones  and  jewelry.  H-re 
Italian,  French,  Greek,  Armenian,  and  other  ad- 
venturers, are  found.  Here  immense  caravans 
assemble  annually  to  make  the  pilgrimage  to 

One  sees  in  Cairo  Egyptian  women  of  great 
beauty,  but  also  giving  evidence  of  their  de- 
graded  condition.  Among  them  education  is 
vi  ^  ""known.  They  have  no  intellectual 
lite.  A  Mohammedan  who  can  afford  the  ex- 
pense is  permitted  to  have  at  least  four  wives  • 
he  may  have  many  more,  but  the  children  of 


'  H 


r 


I'l  ' 


'!», 


•'t   I 


li 


I      1 


iri^ii  i 


486 


AROUND    TIIK   WORLD 


four  are  considered  Icfritiinate.  Walking  alonji; 
tlie  streets  and  lookinj^  up  at  the  overlianj^ing 
balconies,  one  can  well  inia<;ine  the  life  wliicli 
the  women  of  the  harem  live.  Occasionally  it 
was  possible  to  o;et  a  «^limpse  of  some  of  them  as 
they  were  stealin<*-  glances  between  the  lattices. 

Here  as  ehsewhere  in  cities  where  ]\Iohamme- 
dans  abound,  the  muezzin  is  heard  calling  the 
faithful  to  their  prayers.  Wonderful  are  the 
street  cries  which  one  hears  in  Cairo.  The 
water  carrier  with  a  skin  slung  over  his  shoulder 
shouts:  "  God's  gift,  limpid  water  !  "  Another 
cries  :  "  Oh,  figs,  Oh,  believers,  here  are  figs  !  " 
Still  another  shouts  :  "  Oh,  woman,  to  the  left !  " 
And  to  the  peddler  of  eggs  he  calls  :  "  Oh,  eggs, 
out  of  the  way  !  "  And  the  beggar  never  fails, 
with  a  strange  mingling  of  authority  and  humil- 
ity, to  say,  "  Oh,  Christian,  backsheesh  !  "  If  you 
give  him  a  generous  amount  your  dragoman 
will  tell  you  tliat  he  is  asking  all  sorts  of  bless- 
ing from  Allah  for  yourself  and  all  your  relatives ; 
but  if  you  refuse  him,  yoii  may  know  that  he  is 
calling  down  Allah's  curses  upon  you  and  your 
family  for  several  generations. 

Most  interesting  was  it  in  Cairo  to  see  British 
officers  riding  through  the  streets,  and  at  the 
citadel  to  see  British  soldiers  everywhere  on 
guard.  I  confess  that  it  gave  me  genuine  pleas- 
ure to  see  our  British  brethren  in  charge  of  this 
ancient  city  and  land.  Britain  has  a  foothold  in 
Egypt,  and  she  will  not  be  likely  soon  to  retiie 
from  that  land  of  the  Pharaohs.  Wherever 
Britain  goes,   law,   order,   liberty,  and   religion 


'it 


CAIRO,   " 


rilK    VICTORIOLS" 


487 


ig  along 
lianging 
e  wliicli 
anally  it 
thciii  as 
lattices, 
•haninic- 
liiig  the 
are  the 
3.  The 
ihoiilder 
Another 
I  figs  ! " 
le  left  !  " 
>1^,  eggs, 
er  fails, 
1  hiimil- 
'  If  vou 
agonian 
)f  bless- 
^latives; 
lat  he  is 
lid  your 

British 
[  at  the 
liere  on 
le  pleas- 
!  of  this 
thold  in 
:o  retire 
'herever 
religion 


also  go.    Speaking  of  the  citadel,  it  seems  strange 
enough  to  be  shown  about  those  ancient  walls  bv 
tho.se    British   officers.     Marvelous   is   the   view 
trom  the  wall  of  this  citadel.     Below  is  the  city 
with  Its  countless  minarets,  its  domed  mosques 
Its  squares,  and  its  terraced  roofs.    Yonder  stretch' 
the  plains  of  lower  Egypt.     Here  are  the  tombs 
ot  the  Mamelukes;  there  the  lonely  column  of 
Heliopolis,  the  famous  "  City  of  the  Sun."     In 
the  distance  is  the  land  of  Goshen  where  the 
sons  of  Jacob  fed  their  flocks;  there  the  mysteri- 
ous Nile,  the  island  of  Roda,  and  beyond    the 
pyramids  rising  in  their  unique  grandeur  and 
glory. 

A1.EXANDRIA.— Too  soon  I  had  my  last  view 
ot   that  great   historic  and    mysterious  citv  of 
Cairo.     In  order  to  save  time  I  went  by  night 
train  to  Alexandria,  whence  I  was  to  sail   for 
Palestine.     Leaving  Cairo  at  eleven,  I  reached 
A  exandna   before  six  the  following  morning 
ihe  night   was  cool.     A  strange   change   had 
come  over  the  weather,  and  an   overcoat  was 
worn  from  the  time  we  reached  Suez,  after  the 
great  heat  of  the  Red  Sea,  until  I  reached  Jop- 
pa ;  and  even  an  overcoat  required  to  be  sup- 
plemented by  a  heavy  rug,  in  order  that  comfort 
inight  be  enjoyed  while  the  night  ride  was  taken 
trom  Cairo  to  Alexandria. 

Tliere  was  time  to  see  something  of  this  inter- 
esting city  before  the  steamer  sailed  shortly 
before  noon  for  Joppa.  We  know  that  this  city 
was  founded  by  Alexander  the  Great,  332  b  c 


kl 


'    I 


Ml!! 


:1| 


If!  '  r 


'/rf^ 


/I  if .  l^ 

v>    1 


.    !■ 


11 


I;.' 


488 


AROUND   Tin<:    WOUIvD 


He  laid  it  out  in  scuiarcs,  and  in  the  center  where 
tlie  streets  met  was  his  own  niansolenni.  His 
l)ody  was  enihahned  in  a  coffin  of  pure  gold,  and 
wlicn  that  coffin  was  stolen,  an  alabaster  coffin 
was  used.  The  whole  world  is  familiar  with 
the  island  of  Pharos  on  which  was  built,  by 
Ptolemy  Philadelphus,  the  famous  lij^hthousc 
which  was  called  one  of  the  wonders  of  the 
world.  We  know  that  it  was  a  larj^e  square 
tower  of  white  marble,  and  that  on  its  top  fires 
were  always  burning-,  which  became  a  guide  for 
mariners  far  out  at  sea.  A  great  mole  or  pier 
was  built  from  the  city  to  the  Pharos,  and  thus 
two  harbors  were  formed. 

The  whole  world  knows  also  of  the  royal 
palace,  the  great  theatres,  and  the  vast  library 
of  Alexandria.  This  library  was  said  to  contain 
four  hundred  thousand  volumes  ;  but  we  know 
that  our  method  of  reckoning  the  number  of 
volumes  would  greatly  reduce  this  total.  Julius 
CcEsar  burned  the  library  of  the  museum  when 
he  besieged  Alexandria.  Cleopatra  afterward 
added  the  library  of  the  kings  of  Pergamos 
which  Mark  Antony  gave  her,  and  finally  this 
library  was  said  to  contain  seven  hundred  thous- 
and volumes ;  but,  as  already  suggested,  their 
method  of  reckoning  volumes  was  different  from 
ours.  Each  part  of  a  book  was  called  a  book  at 
that  day.  For  four  hundred  years  this  city  re- 
mained the  center  of  learning. 

The  Serapeum,  or  temple  of  Serapis,  with  the 
exception  of  the  capitol  at  Rome,  was  said  to  be 
the  most  magnificent  building  in  the  world.    But 


>i 


CAIRO,  "TIIK    victorious" 


489 


r  where 
11.     His 
dUI,  and 
;r  coffin 
ar  with 
uilt,  by 
hthonsc 
of   the 
I  square 
top  fires 
uide  for 
:  or  pier 
ind  thus 

he  royal 
t  library 
3  contain 
^ve  know 
limber  of 
Julius 
im  when 
terward 
erganios 
ally  this 
ed  thous- 
ed,  their 
ent  from 
book  at 
s  city  re- 

with  the 
aid  to  be 
rid.    But 


i 


Tlicodosius  pave  orders  to  destroy  all  h'\it1ien 
temples  in  the  Roman  Umpire,  and  the  Christians 
of  Alexanch'ia  tore  down  the  vSerapenm. 

The  Romans  l)ecame  masters  of  Alexandria 
30  n.  c,  bnt  the  city  retained  its  j;reatness  tnitil 
Constantinople   was    made    the    cai)ital    of    the 


empire. 


Alexandria  lost  her  Kast  Indian   trade 


when  the  passaj^e  to  India  was  made  by  sailing 
round  the  Cape  of  (iood  Mope.  Since  the  open- 
ing;- of  the  Suez  Canal  considerable  trade  and 
traveling  have  gone  to  Alexandria.  Its  popula- 
tion is  perhaps  not  less  than  two  hundred  and 
fifty  thousand.  The  new  city  is  in  the  mole 
between  the  old  city  and  the  island  of  Pharos. 

I  drove  through  the  streets  and  had  the  oppor- 
tunity of  visiting  the  column  known  as  Pompey's 
Pillar ;  it  ought,  however,  to  be  called  Diocle- 
tian's Pillar,  as  it  was  erected  in  his  honor  when 
he  took  Alexandria,  A.  d.  296.  It  is  a  Corin- 
thian column  of  red  granite,  nearly  one  hundred 
feet  high.  Some  suppose  it  was  originally  a 
column  of  the  Serapeum. 

Near  the  shore  formerly  stood  the  two  obelisks, 
called  Cleopatra's  Needles.  This  was  merely  a 
fanciful  name,  as  Cleopatra  was  guiltless  of  any 
relation  to  them.  For  at  least  one  thousand  two 
hundred  years  they  had  stood  in  front  of  the 
temple  of  the  sun  at  Heliopolis.  From  that  an- 
cient city  Julius  Caesar  brought  them  to  adorn 
his  ov/n  temple,  which  was  called  the  Csesareum. 
Mehemet  AH  gave  one  of  them  to  the  British 
government,  and  in  1877  it  was  taken  to  Lon- 
don.   Ismail  Pasha  gave  the  other  to  the  United 


ri 


I*!  ' 


i.l 


'      ( 


I!      ' 


r  I 


II 


490 


AROUND   THK    WORM) 


vStatcs,  and  in  1S80  it  was  taken  to  New  York 
City,  and  lo-day  it  stands  in  onr  Central  I'ark. 

Alexandria  is  still  a  busy  city.  Its  harbor  is 
fdled  with  vessels  representing;  many  nations, 
and  its  docks  j^ive  evidence  of  a  brisk  trade  in 
many  commodities.  It  will  d'^ubtless  increase 
in  importance  with  K^^ypt's  enlarj^in^  prosperity. 

My  visit  in  Kj^ypt  was  qnite  too  short.  There 
was  no  opportnnity  to  ^o  np  the  Nile  or  to  see 
the  conntry  beyond  the  Pyramids,  bnt  a  very 
considerable  amonnt  was  seen  in  the  limited 
time  at  my  disposal.  Near  noon  of  Wednesday, 
the  twenty-tifth  day  of  September,  1H95,  we 
pnshed  ont  into  the  sea,  this  wonderful  Mediter- 
ranean, alonj;  whose  shores  rose  and  fell  the  civ- 
ilizations of  many  ccntnries  and  many  nations. 
He  who  writes  the  history  of  the  IMediterranean 
Sea  will,  to  a  great  degree,  write  the  history  of 
the  hnman  race  in  its  varions  conflicts,  dishonors, 
and  defeats,  on  the  one  hand,  and  its  trinmphs 
and  glories  on  the  other.  A  marvelons  volnme 
it  would  be,  could  one  write  the  history  of  that 
sea  whose  very  name.  Mid-earth  Sea,  indicates 
the  place  which  it  held  in  the  thought  of  men 
and  has  held  in  the  affairs  of  the  globe — Med- 
iterranean, the  center  of  the  earth.  Alexandria 
fades  from  sight ;  its  towers,  minarets,  and  light- 
house finally  disappeared  from  view. 

Palestine,  the  land  of  patriarchs  and  prophets, 
came  before  \\><.  Wonderful  thoughts  filled  the 
soul  as  its  shore  was  approached.  In  the  author's 
volume,  entitled  "  Sunday  Night  Lectures  on 
The  Land  and  The  Book,"  he  gives  an  account 


M 


li-i 


CAIRO,  "TIIK    VICTORIOUS" 


;w  York 
Park, 
larhor  is 
nations, 
trade  in 
increase 
)sperity. 
There 
»r  to  see 
a  very 
limited 
Inesday, 
S95,   we 
^lediter- 
the  civ- 
iiations. 
rranean 
^tory  of 
ilionors, 
iumphs 
vol  n  me 
of  that 
id i Gates 
of  men 
— Med- 
fcandria 
d  light- 


ophets, 
led  the 
uthor's 
ires  on 
iccount 


'/  ♦ 


\  5 

0 


11 


if'-:  ■ 

I  4  I,' 


:■■(  i 


'I  ' , 


CHAPTER    XXXVIII 


f,  ''»' 


...«' 


'('      i> 


"THE   ISLKS  OF  GREECE" 

IT  will  scarcely  be  doubted  that  picturesquely, 
historically,  classically,  aud  biblically,  the 
Greciau  Archipelago  is  one  of  the  most  interest- 
ing regions  on  the  surface  of  the  globe.  Perhaps 
the  Japan  Inland  Sea,  considered  simply  with 
reference  to  its  picturesqueness,  will  compare 
favorably  with  the  ^gean  Sea  ;  but  in  the  other 
particulars  named  the  latter  very  far  surpasses 
the  former. 


!  ■    ) 


Oriental  Passengers. — It  was  a  motley 
group  of  passengers  which  filled  the  decks  of  the 
steamer  on  which  we  sailed  from  Beyrout  for 
Constantinople.  Many  of  these  passengers  se- 
lected small  squares  in  the  second  class  portions 
of  the  deck,  and  surrounded  these  squares  with 
curtains  made  of  shawls  and  various  materials, 
thus  forining  the  enclosed  space  into  miniature 
seraglios.  Among  these  passengers  were  Rus- 
sians, Greeks,  Italians,  Egyptians,  Syrians,  and 
representatives  of  various  other  nationalities.  It 
was  a  strange  allotment  of  bags,  bundles,  and 
people  of  many  nationalities,  heaped  indiscrimi- 
nately togetlier. 

Among  them  were  some  pashas  who  with 
492 


THE   ISLES  OK  GKEECE 


493 


lrLT7  'I"*"""-'''  "'^'^^  '■'^'■''  •■el.,rni„g  fro,,, 
f5>r,a  to  Co,!sta,it„,ople.     So„,e  of  these  officials 

s.lk  a„cl  other  expe,i.s,ve  materials.  Their  hi.^lilv 
colored  r„gs,  c.,sl„o„s,  a„d  robes  adde<l  pi?    r. 

ot  the  cabins  were  wo:.,e,i  of  other  hare„is  rc- 
turmng  w,tho„t  the  pashas,  but  „„der  the  care 
of  older  wo,„e,,  a„d  the  sexless  ,„e„  who  fro,,, 
time  „nme,nonal  have  bee,,  associated  with  the 

ma,i>  of  the  l,are„i  wo,ne,i  seems  to  be  ii,erelv 
"sZ^S/'lf  *'"'•'  '""''  ""Sht  be  described 

diW;  ,  '  Tf  ?  '^'^'■"S  °f  indescribable 

disgust  as  one  watched  the  conduct,  and  listened 
to  tie  remarks  of  scne  of  these  wo,uen. 

Whole  families  of  the  better  class  of  second 
class  passengers  were  within  these  conipLtme  its 
formed  by  cords  and  hangings.  Ueil  wo„!e„ 
and  children  seenied  to  be  prontiscuousi;  ^wde  i 
n  to  these  extemporized  eompartinents.  Sonie 
otthem  seemed  to  be  sca-siek  in  family  group- 
J  lie  sights  and  sonuds  were  not  condudve  to 
coinposure,  even  on  the  part  of  those  who  we  e 

::ir' w"''  '°  "'^  ^^^^^rons  effects  of  ocea.t 
travel.  Women  with  and  without  x-eils  wcTe 
somewhat  indiscri.ninately  associated,   so'iiie  o1 

hlZ  '"!,"'"?  '''■'^S:y  silk  trousers  andgayly  em- 
broidered jackets.  °  '  ^ 

anJothtr^nr  '^"'''c'  °'^""'-'  f™'"  Dauiasens 
H  lonii  ,?rlf'  '"  ^^'I""  >•«'•"•»">?  to  Constan- 
tinople.    With  some  of  these  I  formed  a  travel- 


'    1 

N 

.    1 


494 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


•I 


I'    :p. 


pit- 


't      I 

/'f 


l'-^.^' 


(Ill 


Ijf. 


f 


M 


1J| 

f*l 


m 


"'  , '- ' 


,\ 


h.V 


I 

:■   *'  i, 


ing  acquaintance,  and  found  them  to  be  well-in- 
formed and  really  agreeable  gentlemen.  All 
spoke  French,  and  some  English  with  accuracy 
and  a  few  with  elegance.  The  Moslems  are 
devout,  according  to  their  conception  of  devout- 
ness,  wherever  they  may  chance  to  be.  They 
spread  their  prayer-carpets  on  the  deck,  and  serv- 
ants and  masters  together  repeat  their  prayers  at 
the  appointed  hours  witli  the  customary  kneel- 
ings  and  prostrations. 

One  who  has  never  gone  over  a  bit  of  sea  in 
the  Orient  can  form  but  little  conception  of 
the  commingling  of  nationalities,  bright-colored 
garments,  varied  social  customs,  and  religious 
faiths,  seen  on  the  deck  of  one  of  these  Oriental 
steamers.  A  volume  might  be  written  on  i]:vr> 
part  of  the  journey  alone. 

Historic  Places. — It  is  impossible  to  exhaust 
the  associations,  biblical  and  classical,  which 
gather  about  these  isles  of  Greece.  It  is  neces- 
sary, however,  in  the  brief  space  at  our  com- 
mand to  speak  with  brevity  of  places  so  replete 
with  interest.  North  of  us,  as  we  started  in  the 
journey,  were  Seleucia  and  the  ever-memorable 
Tarsus,  the  birthplace  of  the  matchless  Paul. 

We  passed  quite  near  the  famous  island  of 
Cyprus.  This  island  has  become  especially  in- 
teresting to  Americans  in  these  recent  years 
because  of  the  relation  to  it  and  America  of  M. 
Cesnola.  Cyprus  is  known  to  the  Turks  as 
Kybris.  Its  breadth  is  from  sixty  miles  to  five, 
from  north  to  south,  and  it  is  about  one  hundred 


THE   ISLES  OF  GREECE 


well-in- 
11.  All 
ccnracy 
;ms  are 
devout- 
They 
id  serv- 
lyers  at 
^  kneel- 

■  sea  in 
tion  of 
colored 
iligious 
)riental 
on  tlr"s 


exhaust 
which 
5  neces- 
r  coni- 
replete 
'.  in  the 
lorable 
aul. 
and  of 
ally  in- 
:  years 
Lof  M. 
irks  as 
to  five, 
undred 


________  495 

and  fifty  miles  long.     Its  population  Ts^ perhaps 
two  luiiidred  thousand,  but  is  said  to  have  been 
one   million    when   under   the   rule  of   Venice 
balamis,  modern  name  Koluri,  is  chiefly  remem- 
bered because  of  the  great  naval  battle  there  be- 
tween the  Greeks  and  the  Persians,  480  b  c     Its 
ocation  can  be  traced  by  the  ruins  of  its  founda- 
tions and  buildings.     Paphos  was  seven   miles 
and  a  lialf  to  the  northwest  of  old  Paphos.    The 
goddess  of  the   island   was  Venus,  here   called 
L.ypria.      Perhaps  there  was  no  place  in  which 
iier  worship  was  more  luxurious  and  abominable 
than  at  Paphos.     Her  temple  at  this  place  was 
famous  for  its  wealth  and  for  the  splendor  of  all 
Its  appointments. 

Here   where  superstition  was  so  common  and 
sin  so  fascinating,  Christianity  was  to  be  estab- 
ished.  Here  the  beautiful  creations  of  Greek  art 
liad  ministered  only  to  evil  passions ;  but  here  the 
truth  as  It  IS  in  Christ  was  to  be  proclaimed,  and 
a  Christian  civilization  was  to  be  created.     At 
Uiis  island  the  civilizations  and  religions  of  the 
East  and  West  came  face  to  face ;  here  barbar- 
ism   and    civilization    met.     Here   Greek    and 
Oriental   idolatry  came   largely  into  union  and 
into  conflict.     A  century  ago,  manv  interesting 
busts,  coins,  medals,  and  bowls  were  discovered 
on  this  island  ;  but  within  the  last  quarter  of  a 
century   Cesnola    has    made    discoveries    which 
have  surprised  the  world,  enriched  America,  and 
immortalized  himself. 

Pressing  on  our  way  from  Cyprus,  we  soon  had 
^eiga  in   Pamphylia  on  our  right.     The  word 


'    f 


■PV 


VI 


'li. 


'  '^;  i 


• 


I) 


i:  ! 


til-  " 

\r  Iff 


l!-!l'- 


4 


;jtl 


I  J  1  1'     r 


fill''' 


496 


AROUND   tup:   world 


Pampliylia  signifies,  All-tribe-land.  It  is  said 
that  the  inhabitants  here,  althongh  principally 
of  Greek  extraction,  were  a  medley  of  many 
nationalities.  It  would  have  been  most  inter- 
esting and  instructive  had  time  permitted  to 
visit  all  the  towns  of  Asia  Minor  made  famous 
in  New  Testament  history.  North  of  us  were 
Lystra,  Iconium,  Antioch  of  Pisidia,  and  Derbe, 

On  our  left  lay  the  island  of  Crete  which  is  at 
the  front  of  the  ^gean  group.  It  is  now  called 
Candia,  but  the  Turkish  name  is  Kyrid.  The 
island  is  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  long,  and 
varies  from  thirty-five  miles  to  six  miles  wide.  It 
has  a  population  of  perhaps  three  hundred  thou- 
sand. This  island  in  ancient  times  was  prosperous 
to  a  large  degree.  It  gave  birth  to  the  legislator 
Minos,  whose  laws  largely  shaped  the  civilization 
of  Greece.  The  natives  of  Crete  were  celebrated 
as  archers.  References  to  the  character  of  the 
Cretans  by  many  authors  agree  with  the  quota- 
tion which  the  Apostle  Paul  gives  us  from  one 
of  their  own  poets :  "  The  Cretans  are  always 
liars,  evil  beasts,  slow  bellies."  This  quotation 
is  supposed  to  be  from  the  hymn  on  "  Jove,"  by 
Callimachus ;  but  it  is  said  that  he  was  not  a 
Cretan,  and  there  is  much  doubt  both  as  to  him 
and  the  reference  which  he  makes.  It  is  a  com- 
mon opinion  to  this  hour  that  the  Cretans  are 
the  very  worst  people  in  the  Levant.  The  repu- 
tation of  these  islanders  to-day  is  thus  in  har- 
mony with  the  allusion  which  Paul  makes  to  the 
character  which  they  bore  in  his  day. 

To  us  the  chief  interest  in  this  island  is  its 


THE   ISLES  OF  GREECE 


:  is  said 
iiicipally 
3f  many 
)st  inter- 
litted  to 
e  famous 
us  were 
d  Derbe. 
lich  is  at 
)w  called 
id.  The 
ong-,  and 
wide.  It 
red  tliou- 
osperous 
eoislator 
^ilization 
^lebrated 
er  of  the 
le  quota- 
Tom  one 
e  always 
quotation 
[ove,"  by 
as  not  a 
is  to  him 
is  a  com- 
stans  are 
riie  repu- 
s  in  har- 
:es  to  the 

nd  is  its 


^______  __497 

connection  with   Paul's  voxaoTto^TtVK^      w; 

tnnl     1    u  "^  °[  "'^  '"'a'"'-  '-"«!   tliey  finally 

took  shel  er  at  a  place  called  Fair-Havens    Co„^ 

to  reacli   Phoenice,  a  more  coniniodious  Inrbnr 
on   the  western  part  of  the  island.     Wl   le  at 
tempting  to  reacli  this  harbor  they  we.V crK-en 
by  fnnonswnds  and  wrecked  on^the  inland  o" 

thei'r'lw-'J,"  C''"^"«"^of  Crete  rose  against 

It's"   same  T,^  I-  r'"^  "'"  "'■"°^'  anxiety  to 
„m  K  Tuikish  masters.     Wliat  the  result 

w.ll  be  „o  one  may  attempt  to  prophesy  bnt 

s  sa  e  to  say  ,„  a  general  ^ay  that  the  power  o 
the  "nnspeakable  Turk"  will  before  lo^^ be 
broken  ,f  not  destroyed,  in  almost  every  comitrv 
over  winch  he  exercises  his  abominabk  sway.  '^ 

Rhodes.— Soon  we  were  at  Rhodes  wber^ 
onr  ship  made  a  considerable  stay  and  where 
the  opportnn.ty  was  given  to  see  this  interltW 

A-T'l"  '"'='"''  *'"'  considerable  care      I? 
was  difficult  to  realize  that  we  were  reaUv  ai  the 

mere    s  probably  no  view  in  tile  Levant  more 
celebrated  than  that  from  Rhodes  toward   f^! 

ot  Mount  Taurus  come  down  in  grandeur  to  the 

2G 


w^ 


■V 


1/- 


r*,    ■* 


14;  * 


l'''\\ 


!(l!.? 


498 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


sea ;  a  long^  line  of  snowy  summits  was  seen  on 
the  Lycian  coast ;  and  the  beautiful  blue  waters 
lay  calmly  under  the  equally  blue  and  beautiful 
sky.  The  town  comes  down  to  the  shore,  and 
is  flanked  by  green  hills  and  verdant  gardens. 
These  hills  rise  into  massive  boldness  as  they 
recede  from  the  shore.  It  will  not  be  forgotten 
that  the  word  Rhodes,  Greek  Rhodas^  is  from  the 
word  rodom^  a  rose. 

The  island  now  belongs  to  Turkey.  It  has  an 
area  of  about  four  hundred  and  fifty-two  square 
miles,  and  a  population  of  about  thirty-five 
thousand.  In  this  population  the  majority  are 
Turks,  but  there  are  Jews,  Greeks,  and  different 
classes  of  Europeans.  The  island  is  ruled  by  a 
pasha,  who  holds  his  office  for  life,  and  who  also 
governs  several  of  the  adjoining  islands  which 
belong  to  Turkey.  A  mountain  ridge  divides 
the  island  from  north  to  south.  There  are  on 
the  island  well-watered,  fertile,  and  cultivated 
valleys.  Probably  there  is  no  island  of  the 
Mediterranean  whose  climate  is  finer.  There  is 
a  considerable  amount  of  commerce  carried  on 
in  oil,  oranges,  citrons,  coral,  sponges,  leather, 
and  marble. 

It  is  believed  that  the  earliest  inhabitants  were 
of  the  Doric  race.  The  three  most  ancient  towns 
of  this  island,  Lindus,  lalysus,  and  Camirus, 
formed,  together  with  Cos,  Cnidus,  and  Hali- 
carnassus  on  the  mainland,  the  confederation 
which  was  known  as  the  Doric  Hexapolis.  This 
island  was  once  one  of  the  stations  of  Phoenician 
commerce.     The    Rhodians  with   others   estab- 


14': 


seen  on 
le  waters 
beantifnl 
lore,  and 
gardens. 

as  they 
forgotten 
from  the 

It  has  an 
^o  square 
hirty-five 
jority  are 
different 
led  by  a 
who  also 
is  which 
2  divides 
e  are  on 
ultivated 
1  of  the 
There  is 
irried  on 
,  leather, 

ants  were 
snt  towns 
Camirus, 
nd  Hali- 
ederation 
lis.  This 
hoenician 
:rs   estab- 


THE   ISLES  OF  GREECE 


499 


hshed,  in  578  b.  c,  a  colony  or  the  northeastern 
coast  of  Spain,  calling  it  Rlioda,  and  it  is  now 
known  as  Rosas.  The  island  came  under  the 
dominion  of  Alexander  the  Ckeat,  and  after  his 
(leatli  the  Macedonian  garrison  was  expelled. 
Rhodes  then  entered  upon  her  most  gloiious 
epoch  ;  but  the  city  was  captured  in  42  B  c 
because  of  its  adiiesion  to  the  party  of  Caesar! 
Worn  this  time  the  political  power  of  the  island 
declined.  The  Emperor  Vesj,asian  finally  de- 
prived the  city  of  its  autonomy.  The  island 
was  successively  owned  by  the  caliphs,  the  cru- 
saders, and  the  Genoese. 

A  brilliant  period  of  its  history  is  associated 
with  the  Knights  of  St.  John  of  Jerusalem,  who 
landed  at  Rhodes  in  1309,  after  they  had  been 
obliged  to  evacuate  Palestine.  They  soon  van- 
quished the  Moslems,  and  made  themselves  mas- 
ters of  the  island.  They  held  it  until  Sultan 
Solyman,  the  Magnificent,  advanced  against  it 
with  an  army  of  two  hundred  thousand  men  to 
oppose  which  the  knights  had  a  force  of  olilv 
SIX  thousand.  The  siege  lasted  for  months,  and 
the  defense  was  heroic ;  but  the  knights  were 
obliged  to  surrender,  and  the  city  has  been 
under  its  present  masters  ever  since. 

The  chief  city  has  a  population  of  about 
twenty  thousand.  It  is  built  in  the  form  of  an 
amphitheatre  upon  a  bay  between  two  capes 
Remains  of  the  ancient  walls  and  towers  built 
by  the  Knights  of  St.  John  are  still  seen.  Tlie 
famous  Colossns,  or  "  Statue  of  the  Sun  "  was 
one  of  the  seven  wonders  of  the  world.     It  was 


^T* 


)' 


'] 


!-l 


•I  ', 


500 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


of  bronze,  and  twelve  years  were  spent  in  its 
construction.  Its  height  was  one  hundred  and 
five  feet.  It  was  erected  by  the  Rliodians  to 
connnemorate  their  successful  resistance  of  the 
tenth  siege  of  Demetrius  Poliocertes,  the  em- 
peror of  Syria. 

This  famous  statue  remained  standing  only 
about  fifty  years.  About  two  hundred  years  be- 
fore Christ  it  was  overthrown  by  an  earthquake, 
and  for  nearly  nine  hundred  y<:ars  the  fragments 
lay  upon  the  ground.  They  were  then  sold  and 
carried  away  into  Kmesa  on  nine  hundred  camels. 
When  the  Apostle  Paul  was  at  Rhodes,  the  main 
portion  of  the  famous  statue  was  prostrate ;  he 
saw  only  portions  of  the  buttresses.  It  is  said 
that  there  were  three  hundred  other  statues  in 
this  famous  city.  Rhodes  has  been  frequently 
greatly  injured  by  earthquakes,  that  of  April 
22,  1863  being  one  of  the  severest.  A  terrific 
powder  explosion  in  1856  destroyed  all  the 
principal  buildings,  some  of  which  are  still  heaps 
of  ruins.  Looking  at  this  city  as  we  approached 
it,  one  could  not  help  remembering  the  words 
found  in  Acts  21  :  i,  "The  day  following  unto 
Rhodes." 


Kal 


Apostolic  Associations. — Near  us  as  we 
pressed  forward  was  Myra,  where  Paul  touched 
(Acts  27  :  5).  Near  Myra  is  Patrse,  where  once 
it  was  supposed  that  the  fire  on  the  altar  of 
Apollo  burned.  Myra  is  on  the  mainland  east 
of  Rhodes,  and  in  the  vicinity  is  Cnidus  which 
Paul    reached   with    difficulty,   "  the    wind    not 


TIIK    ISI.KS   OK   GRKKCIC 


t   in   its 

I  red  and 
lians  to 
e  of  the 
the  em- 

ng-  only 
'ears  1)e- 
hquake, 
ig^nients 
>old  and 

camels, 
he  main 
rate ;  he 
;  is  said 
atues  in 
iquently 
)f  April 

terrific 
all    the 

II  heaps 
•reached 
e  words 
iig  unto 


1  as  we 
tonched 
tre  once 
altar  of 
nd  east 
s  which 
ind    not 


501 

suffering  ns  "  (Acts  27  :  7).  We  soo^r;;;;;;;ed  by 
Los  Ins  pace  is  famous  for  the  fortifications 
erected  here  by  Alcibiades  toward  the  close  of 
the  Peloponnesian  War.     It  will  also  be  remem- 

fr/r1^/  f/^  ''"'  ^^'^  ''""^  ''^  ^^'^  "»«^^^^^1  school 
traditionally  connected  with  the  name  of  ^scn- 

eSn;   r/  •  ?'  ^^V  '"''"  ^"gSested  that  donbt- 
ess  the  Christian  physician,  Lnke,  could  scarcely 
have  been  ignorant  of  the  celebrity  of  Cos 

Opposite  Cos,  and  on  the  coast  of  Caria,  was 
Hahcarnassns,  the  birthplace  of  Herodotus,  "the 
father  of  history,"  and  also  of  Dionysin^,  the 
literary  critic  and  historian.  Miletns  is  on  the 
mainland  in  this  vicinity.  It  will  be  remem- 
bered that  It  was  here  the  apostle  had  his  affect- 
ing interview  with  the  elders  of  Ephesns,  who 
came  down  a  distance  of  abont  thirty  miles  to 
meet  him. 

It  is  not  easy  to  describe  the  emotions  with 
which    I   gazed    npon    the    island   of    Patmos 
Wonderfnlly  vivid   were  the  memories  of   the 
letters  to  the  seven  chnrches  of  Asia  communi- 
cated on  that  island  by  the  risen  and  enthroned 
Jesus  to  the  imprisoned  John.     It  is  a  remark- 
able fact  that  we  have  in  the  New  Testament 
not  only  epistles  from  famous  apostles,  but  epis- 
tles also  from  the   Lord  Jesus  Christ   himself. 
Yes,  on  yonder  island  was  the  scene  of  the  Reve- 
lation     Here  the  Lord   in  some   manner  con- 
versed with  his  beloved  disciple.     On  that  island 
visions  of  indescribable  glory  were  opened   to 
the  eyes  of  every  believer.     On  these  mountains, 
islands,  and  waters,  the  eye  of  the  beloved  Johii 


111 


"i 


r    1 


M  t. 


h  ^^l: 


:.;« 


1 


,  < 


11 


-  H:' 


Nl 


-if' 


I       ' 


502 


AROUND   TIIK   WORLD 


rested.  Listening  to  the  sublime  music  of  these 
waters  on  the  rock-bound  shore,  and  lookiufj  out 
over  their  sparkling  surface,  he  wrote  the  words, 
"  and  the  sea  gave  up  its  dead." 

Marvelously  real  were  these  New  Testament 
scenes  as  I  walked  the  deck  of  the  ship  and 
gazed  out  on  the  irregular  mass  of  bleak  and 
barren  rock  called  Patmos.  Its  name  is  now 
Patino,  but  it  was  called  during  the  middle  ages 
Palmosa,  or  the  island  of  palms.  It  is  one  of 
the  ancient  group  of  Sporades,  and  now  belongs 
to  Turkey.  It  is  about  thirty  miles  west  of  tlie 
coast  of  Asia  Minor  and  twenty  miles  south  of 
the  western  extremity  of  Samos.  The  island  is 
about  ten  miles  long,  five  broad,  and  over  thirty 
in  circumference.  A  narrow  isthmus  divides  it 
into  two  unequal  parts.  Its  chief  port  on  the 
eastern  side  of  the  isthmus  is  said  to  be  one  of 
the  best  harbors  in  all  the  Greek  islands. 

The  Romans  used  it  as  a  place  of  banishment, 
and  to  it  Domitian  consigned  the  beloved  disci- 
ple, perhaps  in  the  year  A.  d.  94.  It  is  believed 
that  the  Apostle  John  was  recalled  after  the  ty- 
rant's death  September  18,  a.  d.  96;  but  there 
is  much  doubt  regarding  these  dates,  and  they 
cannot  be  affirmed  with  complete  accuracy. 

There  is  a  village  of  some  fifty  or  sixty  liouses 
and  shops  at  the  landing-place,  but  the  town  is 
on  the  ridge  about  half  an  hour  distant  from  the 
landing.  Still  higher  is  the  celebrated  monas- 
tery bearing  the  name  of  "John  the  Divine." 
It  was  built  by  the  Byzantine  emperors  in  the 
twelfth  century,  and  is  inhabited  still  by  about 


TlIK   ISI.KS  OK  GRKi.;cK 


5f^3 


ic  of  these 
okiiifj  out 
he  words, 

^estaiiient 
ship  and 
bleak  and 
e  is  now 
ddle  ages 
is  one  of 
V  belongs 
est  of  tlie 
south  of 
:  island  is 
^'er  thirty 
divides  it 
rt  on  the 
be  one  of 
is. 

lishment, 
vcd  disci- 
;  believed 
?r  the  ty- 
but  there 
and  they 
racy. 

ty  liouses 
e  town  is 
from  the 
d  monas- 
Divine." 
rs  in  the 
by  about 


fifty    monks.      There   is   a    library   containin..- 
about   one   thousand  printed    volumes.     Below 
the  monastery  is  the  grotto  in  which  the  apostle 
IS  saul   to  have  written  the   Apocalypse.     The 
inhabit.' iits  number   about   four  thousand    and 
are  mostly  Greeks,  whose  reputation  is  anythiii<r 
but  good.     They  live  by  fishing  and  boatini? 
and  by  doing  a  little  agricultural  work.     The 
island  IS  deficient  in  trees,  but  abounds  in  flower- 
ing plants  and  shrubs.     Fruit  trees  are  grown  in 
the  orchards,  and  the  wine  is  said  to  be  the  best 
flavored  of  any  in   the  Greek   islands.     Samos 
and  Irogylhum  are  not  far  distant  from  Patnios 
Atlrogylhum  the  Apostle  Paul  spent  a  night 
and  an  anchorage  there  is  still  called  St.  Paul's 
Port. 

A  Glimpse  of  Athens.— It  was  a  wonder- 
till  realization  when  we  found  ourselves  at  the 
Piraeus  and  within  a  few  miles  of  immortal 
Athens.  Here  we  left  the  steamer  and  took  the 
railway  to  the  famous  city.  All  the  memories 
ot  academic  and  collegiate  days  rushed  upon  the 
mind  with  irresistible  power.  Again  the  dear 
face  of  Dr.  A.  C.  Kendrick  was  seen  and  his 
voice  \yas  heard  as  he  used  to  repeat  the  words 
ot  lyord  Byron  : 

The  isles  of  Greece,  the  isles  of  Greece  ! 

Where  burning  Sappho  loved  and  sung, 
Where  grew  the  arts  of  war  and  peace. 
Where  Delos  rose  and  Phabus  sprung  ! 
Eternal  summer  gilds  them  yet, 
But  all  except  their  sun  is  set  ! 


m 


/ 


i^' 


','■   w. 


yn 


AROUND   TllK    WORLD 


The  words  of  Milton  also  sung  themselves  in 
memory  : 

Athens,  the  eye  of  Circccc  !     Mother  of  arts 

Ami  eh)(|iien(:e  !     Native  to  famoiis  wits  ! 

See  there  the  olive  j;rove  of  Academe, 

riato's  retirement,  where  the  Attic  l)ircl 

Trills  her  thick-warbled  notes  the  summer  lon^'  ; 

There — flowery  hill — Hymettiis,  with  the  sound 

Of  bees'  industrious  murnuir,  oft  invites 

To  studious  musin;;  ;  there  llissus  rolls 

His  whis|)erin);  stream.     Within  the  walls  then  view 

The  schools  of  ancient  sa^'es — his  who  bred 

(ireat  Alexander  to  subdue  the  world, 

Lyceum  then,  and  painted  Stoa  next. 

Could  it  be  possible  that  the  dream  of  years  was 
about  to  be  realized,  and  we  were  actually  with- 
in a  few  minutes  to  be  in  Athens  ?  It  seemed 
almost  too  good  to  be  true.  Marvelous  Athens  ! 
City  of  Socrates,  of  Plato,  of  Zeno,  of  Aristotle, 
of  iVIiltia'^'js,  Themistocles,  Demosthenes  opho- 
cles,  Phidias,  Praxiteles,  and,  greater  th  'ese, 
the  city  of  Paul,  the  apostle  to  the  Gentiles ! 
Soon  we  were  across  the  level  plain  and  were  in 
immortal  Athens  itself. 

Instead  of  a  paragraph,  one  would  like  to 
write  a  volume  on  a  visit  to  this  city,  but  it  is 
better  not  to  begin  the  description  than  to  cut 
it  off  midway.  Soon  we  were  on  the  way  to 
]\Iars'  Hill,  or  the  Areopagus.  We  climbed  the 
stone  steps  to  the  top  of  tlie  hill,  perhaps  to  the 
very  spot  where  the  Apostle  Paul  stood  when 
he  delivered  his  magnificent  sermon.  Wonder- 
ful thoughts  filled  the  soul  as  that  scene  and 


'iHI 


TUIC    ISIJvS  OK   GRKKCI-: 


5»>S 


elves  in 


ncl 


en  view 


2ars  was 
ly  with- 

seenicd 
Athens  ! 
iristotle, 
I  ipho- 
'ese, 

entiles ! 

were  in 

ike  to 
)nt  it  is 
to  cnt 
way  to 
oed  the 
s  to  the 
when 
Vonder- 
ne  and 


aiiditory  were  reproduced.  With  new  nioanin<,^ 
his  allusions  to  Uniplcs  made  with  hands,  forced 
themselves  ui)on  mind  and  heart. 

From  the  Areopaj^us  the  distance  is  short  to 
the  Acropolis.  One  niij^^ht  well  visit  this  place 
every  day,  if  he  were  to  spend  months  at  the 
Grecian  capital.  Perhaps  one  may  he  pardoned 
even  thonjj^h  he  could  not  control  his  emotions 
when  standinjjf  on  that  historic  sjjot  and  j^aziuj; 
out  over  the  city,  the  j)lain,  and  the  mountains. 
Marvelous  Parthenon,  the  pride  of  Cireece  and 
the  wonder  of  the  world  !  It  has  been  calk-d, 
"the  finest  edifice  on  the  finest  site  in  the  world, 
hallowed  by  the  noblest  recollections  that  can 
stimulate  tlie  human  heart."  This  building 
was  completed  in  438  h.  c.  Built  by  Pericles, 
it  was  adorned  by  Phidias,  and  is  said  to  have 
cost  at  least  four  millions  of  dollars  of  our 
money.  I  shall  not  atti  apt  to  describe  these 
marvelous  places  and  structures,  nor  the  Cireat 
Stadium,  nor  the  Theseum.     Matchless  Athens  ! 

On  the  Acropolis  one's  emotions  are  akin  to 
those  experienced  on  the  Mount  of  Olives.  One 
cannot  but  compare  the  two  cities — Athens  and 
Jerusalem ;  Athens  representing-  the  world  of 
culture,  Jerusalem,  the  world  of  revealed  relij^- 
ion.  Athens  was  the  metropolis  of  this  world 
without  revelation.  Jerusalem  was  the  city  of 
the  mighty  Jehovah. 

The  glorious  sunshine,  the  cloudless  sky,  the 
refreshing  breeze,  the  commingled  memories, 
all  made  this  visit  to  Athens  an  epoch  in  one's 
life  and  an  undimnied  light  in  one's  memory. 


la 


1 

i 

4 

1 

i 
i 

/ 

i 

.;.' 


U  Ij-, 


:i\   ' 


1^' 


ft  ^^f 


506 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


Tlier"  is  no  other  city  in  Jie  world,  with  which, 
in  its  own  special  sphere,  "  august  Athena  "  can 
be  compared.  The  last  look  was  taken  at  this 
immortal  city  as  the  train  carried  us  to  the 
Piraeus,  and  the  last  look  at  the  glorious  plains 
and  hills  as  the  steamer  bore  us  on  our  journey 
toward  Constantinople. 

It  was  a  matter  of  regret  that  I  was  not  per- 
mitted to  visit  Ephesus,  the  old  capital  of  Ionia, 
in  L>  Jia.  This  town  is  believed  to  have  been 
founded  about  1043  ^'  C-  ^^  ^^  ^^^^  known  that 
for  many  centuries  it  was  the  cradle  of  Hellenic 
mythology.  It  is  inseparably  associated  with 
the  preaching  of  Luke,  Paul,  Barnabas,  and 
Polycarp.  It  took  high  rank  among  sacred 
cities  as  well  as  among  schools  of  art  and 
philosophy.  It  was  also  prominent  among  the 
seven  churches  of  Asia.  Its  temple  of  Diana, 
glittering  in  beauty  at  the  head  of  the  harbor, 
was  one  of  the  wonders  of  the  world.  I  could 
only  locate  it  in  my  thoughts  as  we  sailed  on- 
ward, but  even  this  suggestion  of  its  location 
fixed  afresh  in  my  mind  the  many  allusions  made 
to  it  in  classical  and  biblical  story. 

Smyrna. — And  now  we  are  anchored  at 
Smyrnri.  Would  that  we  might  take  the  rail- 
way from  here  to  Ephesus,  a  distance  of  fifty 
miles.  It  surely  is  an  evidence  of  remarkable 
progress  that  there  should  be  a  railway  in  this 
ancient  and  distant  city.  The  world  is  moving 
onward  with  rapid  strides.  Smyrna,  Turkish 
Isinir,   is  situated  at  the  head  of   the   gulf  of 


th  which, 
ena  "  can 
n  at  this 
IS  to  the 
us  plains 
r  journey 

not  per- 

of  Ionia, 
ave  been 
lown  that 

Hellenic 
ted  with 
ibas,  and 
g   sacred 

art  and 
inong-  the 
>f  Diana, 
e  harbor, 

I  could 
lailed  on- 

location 
ons  made 


liored  at 
the  rail- 
e  of  fifty 
tnarkable 
y  in  this 
;  moving 
Turkish 
:    gulf   of 


THE  ISLES  OF  GREECE  507 

Smyrra.     rhV^^^Td^^lle^,^^^ 
selves  here  probably  one  hundred  and  fifty    ears 
before  our  era.     Smyrna  has  occupied  a  grea 
P  ace  both  in  secular  and  ecclesiastical  history 
and    he  remains  of  ancient  Smyrna  fuHy  a  te  ^ 
the  high  degree  of  its  civilization.     Columns 

ZZi:t  "  >"^  ^!.^"^^^  ^^  precious  me  1^ 
ad  gems  have  been  dug  up  here  for  centuries 
and  now  adorn  the  museums  of  Europe 

Christianity    was    probably   introduced    into 
Smyrna  during  the  first  century.     Polycarn  a 
disciple  of  the  Apostle  John,  was  one  of  its  eTdv 
bishops.     Smyrna  sent  its  bishop,  Eutyche'    o 
the   ecumenical  council    held  at^Nice'^   '' ' 
Smyrna  is  one  of  the  seven  apocalyptic  churches' 
and  It,  with  Philadelphia,  is  comiuLded    and   t 
IS  a  remarkable  fact  that  tliese  two  cities  are  sti 
flourishing,   while   tue    other  five  are,  ?or   the 
most  part,  a  mass  of  ruins.  ' 

quakes.  The  modern  town  is  built  upon  the 
slopes  of  Mount  Pagus.  The  houses  are^t^^tally 
two  stories  high  and  are  built  of  wooden  beams 
encased  in  stone;  the  beams  are  thus  ^reserved 
from  fire  and  the  houses  stre  gthened  aS 
earthquakes.  Tliere  are  several  Greek  chufcTef 
Protestant   and    Roman    Catholic   churcl les   J; 

wel     supplied   with   schools   and   has   French 

c^iT^'art  fo^'p'""^  "^^'^^>'  P^P-^-     It  is  the 
nor      Tw  M     ^"^«Pf".^o^nmerce  in  Asia  Mi- 
•   uu  V^'l'^^^'^  '"^^'^  '^  ^  »"arked  city  and  its 
neighborhood  is  justly  celebrated  for  its  beauty 


M    /' 


0 


08 


AROUND   THK   WORU) 


■,'W     • 


I*!  '  ,. 


n,  ■  M 


■<   i 


*i  -.'<', 


!■  I 


■''i 


t^: 


.>] 


ii'  ( 


'f  ; 


1   i;ll 


%^  'i 


There  are  fine  groves  of  cypresses,  and  the 
plain  near  the  harbor  abonnd  in  fig  and  olive 
trees  and  vines.  There  seemed  to  he  as  many 
lang-nages  spoken  in  Smyrna  as  at  Rabel.  Cara- 
vans of  camels  ponr  in  from  every  part  of  Asia, 
Syria,  and  Arabia,  while  ships  from  Knrope  and 
America  crowd  the  harbor.  A  jargon  is  heard, 
said  to  be  composed  of  half  a  dozen  langnages, 
and  abonnding  in  nantical  phrases  and  slang  ex- 
pressions representing  almost  all  the  langnages 
of  the  world. 

The  grave  of  Polycarp  is  certainly  one  of  the 
most  interesting  places  in  Smyrna.  Possibly  he 
was  "the  angel  of  the  chnrch  in  Smyrna "  to 
whom  the  letter  to  that  chnrch  was  addressed. 
We  know  that  he  was  bishop  or  pastor  of  that 
chnrch  for  more  than  eighty  years.  We  are  all 
familiar  with  the  heroic  words  which  he  nttered 
as  he  was  led  ont  to  the  place  of  execntion.  A 
cypress  tree  grows  near  the  place  where  his  dnst 
reposes.  When  threatened  with  wild  beasts,  he 
said,  "  Bring  them  forth  "  ;  when  nrged  to  re- 
cant, his  reply  was,  "  I  am  a  Christian  !  "  He 
died  at  the  stake  A.  d.  166.  It  may  not  be 
amiss  to  quote  the  words  with  which  he  affirmed 
his  faith  :  "  Eighty-six  years  have  I  served  him  ; 
dnring  all  this  time  he  never  did  me  any  injnry  ; 
how  then  can  I  blaspheme  my  King  and  Sav- 
ionr  ?  "  Mission  work  is  now  going  forward  in 
Smyrna,  and  the  light  so  long  ago  kindled  in 
that  land  still  continues  to  shine. 

Laodicea  is  sixty  miles  from  Ephesus.  It  is 
said  that  now  nothing  bnt  ruins  remain.     Of  all 


U 


and   the 

and  olive 

as  many 

-1.     Cara- 

t  of  Asia, 

irope  and 

is  lieard, 

moruajies, 

slang  ex- 

anguages 

tie  of  the 
)ssibly  he 
yrna  "  to 
d  dressed, 
r  of  that 
^e  are  all 
e  uttered 
tion.     A 

his  dust 
easts,  he 
:d  \o  re- 

!"     He 

not  be 
affirmed 
Td  him  ; 
'  injury  ; 
nd   Sav- 

ward  in 
idled  in 

5.     It  is 

Of  all 


'I'Hi-:  isij.;s  OF  OKHKCK 


5t>9 


am"   Ionia   i.s  Chios.     Tl^l' ^^^Jf  ^l^'^y^^:^ 
past  tins  ,sla,Kl.     It  will  eve.  be  nienio  al>  i 

connection  with  discussions  co,,ccT,n„. 'tie    irt 
place  of  the  innnortal   Hon.cr.      Nc"ir  Lre  is 
Lesbos,  called  dnrinc.  the  Middle  AfTerMity  en^ 
fron,  ,ts  capital  city,  aii.I  famous  as  the       r  b' 

Alca=ns,  Sapp lio,  and   Anon.      It  was   while   in 
fi,-T^^^;~^^  "^^'^   '''''''  "^''^''  the  scenes  of  the 

T^=::;*wr  ^li -v:^;';? -r^iS'  f 

tbeT,     i  ^^°""-''■"^   P^'"'  fl"-  "'ctropolis  of 
the  T.oad      Tins  comprised  a  broad  plain  slo, 
Iff   ron,  the  foot  of  Monnt  Ida  to  the'sea     T  e 
an    was  den.sely  peopled  by  the  nii.xed  race  of 

itn  •etiS'TrV''''-^'''''''"'  ""''  ■'  »"''■"■"« 
niaii>  cities ;  but  of  these  Tro)-  was  bv  far  the 


5IO 


AROUND    THK   WORLD 


I'!    '    M 


I,    X 


i\   :i^ 


most  splendid  and  powerful.  It  was  founded  by 
Ilus,  the  son  of  Tros,  and  grandson  of  Dardanus. 
It  had  a  fortified  acropolis,  called  Pergamum, 
which  contained  many  royal  palaces  and  tem- 
ples of  the  gods.  Its  highest  splendor  was  at- 
tained under  Priam,  the  son  of  Laomedon  ;  under 
him  also  it  reached  its  downfall.  It  will  be  re- 
membered that  his  son  Paris  carried  off  Helen, 
the  wife  of  Menelaus  ;  to  punish  this  oiitrage  a 
Greek  army  landed  in  Troas,  besieged  Troy  for 
ten  years,  and  finally  destroyed  the  city.  But 
the  kingdom  of  Troy  existed  for  centuries  after. 
The  discoveries  of  the  !ast  generation  have 
brought  from  the  darkness  and  silence  of  three 
thousp.nd  years  the  knowledge  of  the  site  of  the 
ancient  Troy.  This  discovery  is  more  remark- 
able than  that  of  Nineveh  by  Layard.  There 
was  danger  once  that  Ilium  and  the  whole  story 
of  the  Trojan  War  would  be  relegated  to  the  re- 
gion of  myths.  Modern  scholarship  has  accom- 
plished marvelous  results  in  connection  with 
these  discoveries.  Efforts  have  been  made  again 
and  again  to  deny  that  there  ever  was  a  Homer, 
or  that  there  ever  was  a  city  of  Troy,  or  a  Tro- 
jan War.  Now  all  is  changed,  and  many  a 
learned  theory  is  scattered  like  mist  before  the 
sunshine.  The  very  armor  of  these  ancient  he- 
roes is  placed  under  our  eyes.  The  date  of  the 
capture  of  the  city  of  Troy  is  generally  put  at 
1 184  B.  c.  Homer's  immortal  Iliad  and  Odyssey 
have  given  immortality  to  the  city  and  plain  of 
Troy.  The  two  rivers  flowing  from  Mount  Ida, 
Scamander  and  Simois,  so  renowned  in  the  leg- 


it I 


THE  ISLES  OF  GREECE 


nded  by 
ardanus. 
gam  urn, 
lid  tem- 
was  at- 
;  under 
1  be  re- 
Helen, 
it  rage  a 
["roy  for 
y.     But 
2S  after, 
n   have 
>f  three 
of  the 
em  ark- 
There 
le  story 
the  re- 
^ccom- 
1   with 
e  again 
^omer, 
aTro- 
lany  a 
>re  the 
tut  he- 
of  the 
put  at 
dyssey 
lain  of 
It  Ida, 
le  leg- 


511 

rt:""^  t|^^,^roJan  War,  unite  in  7h7p]aiu  of 

Dr  Schlieniaun  has  set  at  rest  all  discussions 
regarding  the   ocality  of  Troy,  or  Ilium,  accord! 
i"g  to  Its  Greek  name.     This  distinguished  dis- 
coverer  was    born    in    Mecklenburg,    in    1822 
When  but  a  child  he  was  arcustomed  to  listen 

hlhl''''^^^  '^''^^'^^  as  repeated  to  him  b" 
Ills  father  In  1869  He  started  on  his  first  tour 
of  research  ;  ni  1870-72  he  continued  his  inve  ' 
t  gations.  He  identified  the  true  site  of  Troy 
showing  that  the  circumference  of  the  walls  s 
about  three  miles  ;  and  he  believes  that  he  has 

stood.     The  story  is  of  fascinating  interest      He 

twen^fi  ''^H  ''  '^5  '^^^^"^^^^^  "^^  f--  than 
twenty-five  thousand   specimens   of    art,    goine 

Manv  of'l'  ""^'"^''^  ^"^^"^^  before '  Christ^ 
Many  of   these,  one   regrets  to  say,  are  of  the 

most  undesirable  moral  significance.'  These  ' 
teresting  facts  can  only  be  mentioned  here  in 
the  briefest  possible  way. 

Trov'^'^^f -"^  ^'-^^^  '''^'  ^^^ar  the  scene  of  ancient 

iroy.     This  name  was  given  it  to  distinguish  it 

rom  the  Troy  of  Homer.     All  this  neihbor 

hood  IS  the  subject  of  legend  and  song,  and  one 

breathes  here  a  truly  classical  atmosph?!-.     Yon! 

fts%nt?r^^''";'  ^^'''  'y'^'  ^ts  beaiitifui  woods, 
its  sparkling  streams,  its  poetic  memories,  and 
mythological  allusions.  ' 

Here  in  the  island  of  Tenedos,  ten  miles  in  cir- 
cumference and  thirteen  miles  from  the  moulh 


I! 


'■*^  H 


512 


AROUND   THE    WORLD 


r..\h 


r,Al'i 


I  p. 


,/ 


of  the  Hellespont.  It  has  a  population  of  about 
seven  thousand,  partly  Greeks  and  partly  Turks. 
It  is  celebrated  for  its  excellent  wines.  Beauti- 
ful was  the  afternoon  when  we  sailed  by  this 
classical  island.  It  lies  like  a  gem  on  the  bosom 
of  the  sea.  Off  in  the  distance  was  seen  the 
nearest  land  of  Europe,  the  lofty  Mount  Athos. 

It  is  said  that  before  Constantine  fixed  on 
Constantinople  as  the  site  of  his  new  capital,  he 
thought  of  selecting  Troas.  To  this  day  Troas 
retains  the  name  of  Eski-Stamboul,  or  Old  Con- 
stantinople. It  is  also  said  that  Julius  Caesar, 
in  his  dream  of  a  universal  empire,  thought  of 
this  beautiful  spot  as  his  capital.  The  Apostle 
Paul  was  at  Troas  no  fewer  than  three  times. 
It  was  here  he  preached  to  so  late  an  hour  at 
night  that  Eutychus  fell  from  an  upper  window 
and  was  killed,  but  was  restored  to  life  by  the 
words  of  the  apostle  (Acts  20  :  10).  At  this 
spot  he  was  called  to  visit  Europe  ;  it  was  here  at 
night  that  there  arose  before  his  vision  the  man 
of  Macedonia,  saying,  "  Come  ever  into  Mace- 
donia, and  help  us"  (Acts  16  :  9).  It  is  impos- 
sible for  any  one  fully  to  comprehend  all  that 
that  call  meant  to  the  history  of  Europe  and  to 
the  cause  of  Christianity  throughout  the  world. 

Dr.  Fish  reminds  us  that  on  many  memorable 
occasions  the  great  men  of  the  world  visited  this 
shore.  Xerxes  passed  this  way  when  he  under- 
took to  subdue  Greece,  and  Julius  Caesar  was 
here  after  the  battle  of  Pharsalia.  Here  at  the 
tomb  of  Achilles  the  entliusiasm  of  Alexander 
of  Macedon  was  kindled.     The  memory  of  his 


Lli^ 


of  about 
y  Turks. 
Beauti- 
by  this 
le  bosom 
seeu  the 
It  Athos. 
fixed   on 
pital,  he 
ly  Troas 
Did  Con- 
s  Caesar, 
)ught  of 
Apostle 
e  times, 
hour  at 
window 
i  by  the 
At  this 
s  here  at 
the  man 
o  Mace- 
s  impos- 
all  that 
e  and  to 
e  world, 
morable 
ited  this 
e  under- 
isar  was 
e  at  the 
exauder 
y  of  his 


,        .  ~ 513 

iieroic  ancestors  so  stirrer?  1,;     •        '- 

"^spired  his  ambition  thnf    "'  ""^'^^^"^tion  and 

throw  the  oldest     'nastofUrf'^^'  ^"  °^'^^- 
here  now  stands  Pn,,  7i  ,     ^^^  ^'^''^-     But 

poin,  out  -  a  nVSe^^^sI^^td^^^^^^ 

liiiiise  f  inciclentillv/,  ,     .  achieving  for 

'>e  brings  i.  mSfrab  1  m'"  •""*''''''""'  *'"'^ 
and  unfiding  glor^to  his  mS"P  '"  """--'"">' 


2H 


Hi  if 


4  It'/ 


"I .,  ii 


XXXIX 


CONSTANTINOPLE 


'  7  ;* 


PASSING  from  the  ^gean  by  the  strait  of 
the  Dardanelles,  anciently  the  Hellespont, 
meaning  "  bridge  of  Greece,'*  we  entered  the  Pro- 
pontis  of  the  ancients,  or  sea  of  Marmora.  This 
sea  lies  between  European  and  Asiatic  Turkey  ; 
it  is  about  one  hundred  and  sixty  miles  long, 
and  fifty-five  miles  wide.  During  a  part  of  the 
afternoon  and  the  night  we  sailed  through  these 
waters.  The  weather  was  not  only  cool,  but 
positively  cold  during  the  night  and  the  early 
morning,  although  it  was  about  the  middle  of 
October.  We  bore  around  to  the  left,  and  en- 
tered the  Bosphorus,  and  thence  into  the  Golden 
Horn.  Before  the  rising  of  the  sun  we  anchored 
at  old  Byzantium,  or  Stamboul,  now  Constanti- 
nople. 

There  was  the  usual  scrambling  for  luggage, 
the  usual  shouting  of  the  runners  for  boats  and 
liotels,  and  the  usual  conflict  of  authorities  before 
we  were  actually  landed.  The  Orientals  love 
noise.  The  excitement  of  landing  from  one  of 
these  steamers  is  enough  to  make  a  man  half 
insane,  nnless  he  has  made  all  arrangements 
before  arrival,  or  is  a  man  of  stoical  character. 
No  one  can  ever  forget  the  beauty  of  the  situa- 
514 


CONSTANTINOI'I.E  515 

tZr^  Constantinople  as  T,e  approadreTTT  by 
water.  While  I  was  arriving  the  snn  arose  and 
mosqnes  with  their  do.nes  and  n.inarerand  ^11 
the  other  public  bnildings  of  this  fasci" mtinJ 
c.ty  were  glittering  in  alf  the  glorfonrspl'endo? 
of  the  morning  sunshine.  It  certainly  was  a 
sight  never  to  be  forgotten.  ^ 

CoNSTANTiNOPLE.-The  name  Constantinoole 

means,  the  "city  of  Constantine."     The  Tu?fc! 

sh  name  is  Istambonl,  or  Stamboul.     This  his. 

! t   L'f  M  ""  '^'P'"''  °f  '^'"'key  and  is  situated 

It  it^  f^KlT'"'.™  ^""•«"^-°f  f'e  Bosphorus 
it   les  in  two  continents,  and  seems  to  be  three 

cities.     The  ancient  Byzantium  is  on  the  long- 
horn-shaped    promontory   between    the    sea    rf 
Marmora  and  the  Golden  Horn.     To  this  citv 
Constantine  gave  his  own  name.     On  what  is 

warioca^d   n,^-^?lio  Point  the  ancient  city 
was  located.     It  is  easy  to  see  wliy  the  Spartans 

and  St   r:^;?"''  "'^  Macedonians,' the  P^ersiaiis; 
thecil^         '  ^°.".'^"<J^''  for  the  possession  o 
Rn,ni  r     ?^  t?"""""  "''■^  «°  important.    Like 

l^v  I  ff^',-"  "^^  surrounded  by  a  wall  which 
followed  the  line  of  the  water  on  three  sideTand 
ran  across  the  base  of  the  promontory  The  land 
wall  many  tunes  saved  the  city  from  the  northern 

aUWr-K"'.  '"■"  "'^  ^'^^'''"  Saracens  and 
although  Its  towers  are  now  battered  and  its 

1  he  second  city  is  on  a  promontory  between  the 


5^0 


AROUND   THE   WORIJ) 


Golden  Horn  and  the  Bosphonis.  It  overlooks 
the  ancient  Byzantium.  It  bears  three  names — 
Galata,  Tophanna,  and  Pera,  which  crowns  the 
summit.  The  third  city  is  Scutari.  This  part 
of  the  city  is  opposite  the  month  of  tlie  (loldcn 
Horn.  It  is  a  little  north  of  the  ancient  Chalce- 
don.  This  part  of  the  city,  it  has  been  well 
remarked  by  Charles  Dudley  Warner,  has  been, 
"  for  over  a  thousand  years  the  camp  of  succes- 
sive besieging  armies,  Georgians,  Persians,  Sara- 
cens, and  Turks." 

Tlie  population  of  Constantinople  is  probably 
about  one  million,  and  perhaps  one-half  of  this 
number  are  Moslems  and  the  remainder  are 
Greeks,  Armenians,  Jews,  Persians,  and  other 
Orientals,  and  also  many  Levantines,  or  native 
Christians  of  European  descent.  Its  harbor  is 
capable  of  containing  more  than  a  thousand 
ships.  It  is  thronged  by  vessels  of  all  nations. 
As  one  enters  the  city  so  famous  for  its  pictur- 
esque situation,  its  charm  largely  disappears. 
In  Athens  one  rejoiced  in  seeing  a  city  possess- 
ing the  best  characteristics  of  modern  European 
cities.  The  tourist  from  the  West  becomes  un- 
speakably weary  of  Asiatic  towns.  Athens  is  a 
delightful  contrast  to  most  of  the  places  which 
he  has  recently  visited  ;  but  now  in  Constanti- 
nople he  is  reminded  again  of  the  towns  in  the 
far  East.  The  streets  are  narrow,  crooked,  and 
fearfully  filthy  ;  many  of  the  houses  are  painfully 
dilapidated  ;  and  the  whole  city  is  filled  with 
abominable  odors.  The  irregularity  of  the  old 
streets  baffles  the  most  skillful  traveler  who  is  a 


t  i'  ♦  fi 


CONSTANTINOI'I.K 


517 


verlooks 
names — 
(vvns  the 
his  part 
}  (loldcn 
:  Chalce- 
een  well 
las  been, 
•f  siicces- 
,ns,  Sara- 

probably 
f  of  this 
uder   are 
nd   other 
or  native 
harbor  is 
thousand 
1  nations. 
s  pictur- 
sappears. 
;  possess- 
uropean 
omes  mi- 
hens  is  a 
es  which 
onstanti- 
ns  in  the 
ked,  and 
painfully 
led  with 
If  the  old 
who  is  a 


stranj^er  in  the  city.  The  pavements  are  bad  ; 
the  streets  are  poorly  lij^hted  and  the  resort  of 
thousands  of  dogs  without  owners  and  without 
anything  else  which  well-conditioned  dogs  pos- 
sess. As  in  other  Oriental  cities,  these  dogs  are 
the  scavengers  of  the  city.  They  are  therefore 
generally  treated  with  kindness  and  are  of  a  peace- 
ful and  gentle  disposition.  Here,  as  elsewhere  in 
the  Orient,  the  dogs  of  each  street  organize  them- 
selves into  separate  colonies,  and  they  will  by  no 
means  allow  the  dogs  of  other  streets  to  intrude 
on  their  territory.  The  boundary  lines  are 
sharply  observed,  and  the  trespassers  are  surely 
punished  by  the  dogs  of  the  invaded  locality. 
These  rules  are  so  stricth"  kept  that  it  is  said  that 
thousands  of  dogs  are  born  and  live  and  die 
without  ever  going  beyond  the  limits  of  their 
natal  territory. 

It  is  striking  to  find  so  many  houses  built  of 
wood  ;  this  fact  accounts  for  the  many  destruc- 
tive conflagrations  which  the  city  has  experi- 
enced. In  the  great  fire  of  1865,  it  is  said, 
no  fewer  than  eight  thousand  houses,  twenty 
mosques,  and  many  other  public  buildings,  were 
destroyed.  The  city  is  divided  into  different 
quarters,  according  to  the  nationality  of  the  in- 
habitants. One  sees  at  once  that  Constantinople 
is  a  city  of  mosques.  I  hastened  at  an  early 
hour  to  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia,  originally 
built  by  Constantine  in  325-326,  on  the  occasion 
of  the  removal  of  the  seat  of  empire  to  Byzan- 
tium ;  it  was  rebuilt  by  Justinian  in  532-538, 
and  it  was  transformed  into  a  mosque  by  Moham- 


'i 


I'l  ■ 


/ 


V      I 


;,;i 


/ , 


/    ll 


I    \ 


m 

A' 


I 


m 


,;( 


518 


AROUND  THK   WORI,n 


nied  II.,  in  1453,  and  renovated  by  the  architect 
Fossati  in  1H47.  The  beautifnl  edifice  is  con- 
strncted  of  li^ht  bricks,  but  it  is  lined  throu^diout 
with  colored  marble.  The  ground  plan  is  in  the 
form  of  a  cross,  three  hundred  and  fifty  feet  long 
and  two  hundred  and  thirty-six  wide  ;  the  diam- 
eter of  the  superb  dome  is  one  hundred  and  seven 
feet ;  and  the  height  from  the  ground  to  the 
cupola  is  one  hundred  and  eighty  feet.  Beauti- 
ful mosaic  work  and  gilt  cover  the  ceiling  and 
the  arches ;  some  of  tlie  columns  are  of  green 
jasper,  and  are  said  to  have  been  taken  from  the 
celebrated  temple  of  Diana  at  Kphesus.  One's 
interest  is  wonderfully  quickened  as  he  remem- 
bers that  it  was  here  that  Chrysostom,  about 
A.  D.  400,  swayed  the  masses  by  his  eloquence 
as  he  had  previously  done  in  the  Syrian  Autioch 
where  he  was  born.  Perhaps  there  is  no  struc- 
ture of  its  kind  more  perfect  than  the  mosque 
of  St.  Sophia.  At  the  very  top  of  its  dome  is 
written  in  golden  Arabic  letters :  "  God  is  the 
light  of  the  heavens  and  the  earth."  There  are 
many  other  mosques  of  great  beauty  and  of  an 
interesting  history,  but  the  mosque  of  St.  Sophia, 
because  of  its  architectural  symmetry,  its  Chris- 
tian history,  ani  its  connection  with  the  capture 
of  Constantinople,  next  to  the  discovery  of 
America  the  greatest  event  of  the  fifteenth  cen- 
tury, will  always  remain  the  object  of  chief  in- 
terest to  the  Christian  tourist  in  Constantinople. 
The  mosque  of  Solyman,  the  Magnificent,  the 
tombs  of  the  sultans  and  Fuad  Pasha,  the  Ser- 
askier  Tower  and  the  tower  of  Galata,  and  the 


C  O  N  ST  A  N  T I N  O  I'  K  V. 


519 


[ircliitect 
e  is  cou- 
ouj^Hiout 
is  in  the 
Feet  long 
he  (liani- 
nd  seven 
i  to  tlie 
Beauti- 
linjj  and 
of  j^reen 
from  the 
.     One's 
I  renieni- 
11,  about 
loquence 
Antioch 
110  strnc- 
niosque 
dome  is 
)d  is  the 
here  are 
id  of  an 
Sophia, 
:s  Chris- 
capture 
very    of 
tith  cen- 
hief  in- 
tinople. 
ent,  the 
he  Ser- 
and  the 


strangely  weird  services  of  the  liowlin^,  whirlinj^. 
and  dancing  dcrvislics,  the  sciaj^lio,  the  l)azaars. 
tlie  offices  of  tlie  Sublime  Porte,  the  museum  of 
the  Janissaries,  the  Hall  of  One  Thousand  and 
One  Columns,  the  «;reat  cisterns  of  IMiiloxena, 
the  Burnt  Column  of  Constantine,  and  esi)ecially 
the  cemetery  of  Scutari,  are  objects  of  };reat  in- 
terest in  visitinj^  this  cit)'.  The  bazaars  are  an 
instructive  scene  in  the  streets  of  this  j^reat  city. 
Here  renuirkable  collections  of  merchandise,  of 
jewels,  of  precious  stones,  of  silken  and  woolen 
fabrics,  of  modern  embroideries,  and  in  fact  col- 
lections of  articles  of  every  Oriental  production 
can  be  found. 

During  my  visit  there  was  great  excitement  in 
Constantinople,  owing  to  the  attacks  made  upon 
the  Armenians.  The  shops  of  the  Armenians, 
and  most  of  the  bazaars,  were  closed,  and  their 
owners  sat  about  the  closed  shops  in  a  state  of 
constant  alarm.  There  was  danger  lest  their 
shops  should  be  looted,  and  they  themselves 
should  be  attacked  and  possibly  murdered.  Some 
of  them  with  whom  I  conversed,  said  they  feared 
lest  the  walls  should  repeat  their  words  and  be 
witnesses  against  them.  Their  condition  was 
truly  pitiful.  Soldiers  constantly  paraded  the 
streets,  and  all  strangers  were  objects  of  sus- 
picion. An  English  gentleman  at  the  same 
hotel  with  me  was  searched  during  my  visit,  but 
his  American  revolver  was  in  his  hat  and  was 
not  discovered.  The  whole  city  was  in  a  state 
of  feverish  excitement,  and  ready  at  a  moment's 
notice  to  break  out  into  any  sort  of  alarm  or  riot. 


Vt' 


1  I 


'I 


52 


o 


AROUND   Till-:    \VORI<n 


i\ 


/;• 


.     11/ 


'I     '    » 

i  ■   ; 


,; 


i 


\ 


ji  1 


J. 
'i'. 

i 


m 

i     .1 


Tine  vSuHURRS. — Woiulcrfuliy  intcrestiiio-  is 
the  bridge  wliich  crosses  the  Golden  Horn.  The 
whole  world  in  iiiiniature  daily  crosses  that 
bridge.  It  ou<>ht  to  be  a  much  better  bridge  than 
it  is,  it  beinj,^  covered  simply  with  wooden  planks. 
One  can  see  there  every  type  of  Oriental  and  of 
Hnropean  life.  Brid<;es  connect  Stanibonl  witii 
the  modern  cities  of  Oalata  and  Pera,  and  jour- 
neys can  be  made  by  ca/t/iu's  or  other  boats  to 
Scutari,  which  lies  on  the  opposite  side  of  the 
Bosphorus  in  Asia.  Every  spot,  every  sc[uare, 
every  town,  every  mosque,  recalls  some  wonder- 
ful historic  event,  or  some  scene  of  fearful  car- 
nan;e.  At  every  turn  of  the  street,  there  are  su<»-- 
oestions  of  mystery,  or  leg-ends  of  the  prowess  of 
a  pasha,  or  the  caprice  of  a  sultana.  The  whole 
atmosphere  appeals  to  the  imagination,  and  bears 
the  tourist  away  to  scenes  of  mystery,  of  horror, 
or  of  shame.  Kvery  Friday  the  sultan  comes 
forth  from  his  palace  on  the  Bosphorus,  and  amid 
the  booming  of  cannon,  sails  down  in  a  splendid 
caiqui\  or  barg-e,  to  his  mosque,  which  is  sur- 
rounded by  soldiers.  Crowds  watch  him  as  he 
makes  this  trip  from  his  palace  to  his  mosque. 
vSonie  of  the  barges  wdiich  accompany  the  sul- 
tan are  glittering  with  gold  and  most  gracefully 
formed.  He  sits  as  a  trembling  tyrant  on  his 
tottering^  throne,  pitied,  despised,  and  hated  by 
the  most  intelligent  nations  of  the  earth. 

Roberts  College  will  always  be  an  object  of 
special  interesi  to  Christians  from  the  United 
States.  And  no  one  can  think  of  the  Crimean 
war  and  its  fearful  horrors,  and  the  ravages  of 


/ill 


CONSTANTINOPI.K 


Stlll*^      IS 

11.  The 
ses  that 
l<4e  tliaii 

I  planks. 

II  aiul  of 
)nl  vvitii 
11(1  jour- 
boats  to 
i  of  the 

square, 
woiuler- 
■ful  car- 
are  su<4- 
jwess  of 
e  wliole 

id  bears 
1 


Horror 


i  comes 
id  auiid 
;pleiidid 
is  sur- 
1  as  he 
iiosque. 
^he  sul- 
icefully 
;  oil  his 
itcd  by 

)ject  of 
United 
rim  can 
ages  of 


521 

disease  amonjr  British  soldiers,  vvithou7tli"i^inir 
of  Moreuce  Nioluin^rale  and  her  visit  to  ScutaH 
111  that  terrible  winter  of  1855.  Th,e  iMmlish 
cemetery,  contaiiiiiijr  the  oodies  of  many  who  fell 
111  tlie  Crimean  war,  is  a  well-kept  flower  irarden 
lyin^-  close  to  the  Hosphorus.  There  is  a  oreat 
granite  monument  to  ei^lit  thousand  nanreless 
(lead.  In  the  cemetery  are  stones  comniemor- 
atiiic|  those  who  fell  at  Alma,  at  Inkermann,  at 
iialaklava  and  other  terrible  battlefields  The 
cemetery  is  the  inevitable,  the  ubiquitous  wit- 
ness  to  the  horrors  of  every  battlefield. 

1  here  is  very  much  of  interest  for  the  tourist 
111   a  1   this  ancient  and    remarkable   city      No 
wonder  Russia  has  longed  to  cret  possession  of 
this  historic  city.     No  man  may  dare  piot)hesy 
as  to  what  shall  occur  to  it  in  the  near  futures 
Its  location  connects  it  and  us  with  ancient  his- 
tory and  lepnd.     The  Bosphorus  joins  the  Black 
Sea  and   the  sea  of  Marmora.     In  the  musemn 
IS  the  old  Cham  that  oncc  stretched  across  the 
streani  to  prevent  the  entrance  of  alien  fleets. 
Here  Darius  crossed  into   Europe  with  a  fleet  • 
somewhere  in  this  vicinity  came  Jason,  haviiicr 
put  to  sleen  the  guarding-  dragon  ;  here  lo  in  the 
orm  of  an  ox  crossed  the  water,  thus  givincr  it 
the   name    Posphorus.     Throuoli    parts  of   This 
city  blood    ;,as  flowed   in   rivers  ;   crueltv    lust 
and  vice  of  every  sort,  togetlier  with   virtues  of 
iKany  kinds,  are  sugj^ested  by  the  name  Constan- 
tinople. 


XL 


CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON 


; 


If 


A  Long  Railway  Ridk. — I  was  not  sorry  to 
leave  this  city.  The  excitement  was  so  great 
that  any  moment  an  outbreak  was  possible.  By 
a  careful  study  of  time  tables,  I  learned  that 
leaving  Constantinople  a  little  before  midnight 
of  Wednesday,  I  could  reach  London  in  time  for 
Sunday.  Immediately  I  put  my  plans  into  vig- 
orous operation.  INIy  passport  had  to  be  ex- 
amined again  and  again  before  T  was  permitted 
to  leave  the  city.  About  eleven  o'clock,  how- 
ever, I  was  on  the  train  for  London.  I  did  not 
take  the  fastest  train,  as  the  additional  charge 
for  that  train  was  about  nine  pounds.  There 
was  but  another  passenger  with  me  in  the  com- 
partment as  -we  started  from  Constantinople,  he 
going  to  Pans,  and  I  to  London. 

Our  journey  was  by  way  of  Adrianople.  This 
is  an  important  Turkish  city,  named  after  the 
Emperor  Hadrian,  its  founder.  It  has  been  the 
scene  of  many  battles  and  sieges.  The  Turks 
took  it  from  the  Christians  in  1361,  and  until 
they  captured  Constantinople  in  1453,  it  was 
their  capital.  In  1829  the  Russians  captured  it 
from  the  Turks,  and  again  in  1878.  We  then 
passed  through  Philippopolis,  the  most  impor- 
522 


\' 

'    ; 

i 

i 

1 

1 

1 

CONSTANTINOPLE   TO    LONDON 


523 


le  com- 


taiit  city  of  Rounielia.  Soon  we  reached  Sophia, 
the  capital  of  Bulgaria  ;  then  on  to  Nisch,  or 
Nissa,  founded  by  Philip  of  Macedon,  and  the 
birthplace  of  Constantine  the  Great. 

We  were  constantly  obliged  to  show  our  pass- 
port to  various  officials  as  we  passed  through 
these  different  countries.  This  became  a  very 
tedious  process.  We  were  glad  to  get  beyond 
the  influence  of  Turkey  an  ^  of  the  countries  in 
the  vicinity  of  Turkish  territory.  We  finally 
reached  Belgrade,  formerly  the  capital  of  Servia 
on  l1  .  Danube.  The  ancient  name  was  Singid- 
ununi;  the  Turks  call  it  Darol-Jihad,  the  "house 
of  the  holy  war."  The  German  name  is  Weis- 
senburg.  The  name  Belgrade  is  of  Slavonic 
origin,  coming  from  biclo^  "white,"  and  grad^ 
or  grod^  a  "fort,"  or  "town."  It  is  situated  at 
the  confluence  of  the  rivers  Save  and  Danube. 
This  is  the  chief  place  of  trade  between  Turkey 
and  Austria.  It  has  been  the  scene  of  many 
sieges  and  battles.  Belgrade  means,  as  v.'e  have 
said,  "white  fortress."  Our  journey  now  led  us 
through  a  district  which  of  late  years  has  been 
very  conspicuous  in  European  political  history  ; 
it  also  was  a  journey  through  the  grand  scenery 
of  til  '  Balkan  Mountains.  No  one  can  be  other 
than  impressed  both  by  the  historical  interest 
and  by  the  na^  ir^l  beanty  attaching  to  this  part 
of  the  journey. 

One  hundred  and  thirty  miles  southeast  of 
Vienna  we  reached  Bnda-Pesth  on  the  Danube. 
This  city  is  made  up  of  the  city  of  Buda  on  the 
south  bank  of  the  river,  and  the  cii  ■  of  Pesth  on 


524 


AROUND   THE   WORLD 


'    "/ 


I'  I 

I 


tlie  north  of  the  river ;  the  two  cities  being 
joined  by  a  snspension  bridge.  Buda  is  on  high 
ground,  and  is  built  around  the  Schlossberg,  or 
''  castle  hill."  We  had  time  here  to  examine 
the  citadel  where  emperors  of  Austria  are  crowned 
as  kings  of  Hungary.  The  park,  grounds,  gar- 
dens, and  the  principal  boulevards  are  very  at- 
tractive. This  is  truly  a  fine  city.  The  crown, 
scepter,  and  mantle  of  St.  Stephen,  the  first 
Christian  king  of  Hungary,  are  seen  in  the 
chapel  near  the  cathedral. 

Pestli  is  on  a  sandy  plain,  and  is  protected  by 
embankments  which  keep  out  the  water  of  the 
river.  About  four-fifths  of  the  population  of  the 
united  cities  live  in  Pestli.  The  Hall  of  the 
Hungarian  Diet,  or  congress,  is  in  this  part  of  the 
city.  The  T'niversity  of  Pestli  has  more  than  two 
thousand  students,  and  also  excellent  museums 
and  libraries.  It  is  supposed  that  the  word  Pesth, 
conies  from  an  old  word  meaning,  "  sand."  The 
Romans  had  a  town  on  this  site.  Buda  and 
Pesth  were  incorporated  with  each  other  in 
1873,  and  the  comjA^und  name  became  the  of- 
ficial name  of  the  citv. 

In  a  few  hours  we  were  in  beautiful  Vienna. 
This  city  aiH,  the  rest  of  the  journey  to  London 
were  comparatively  familiar  territory.  We  had  to 
take  a  most  hurried  carriage  ride  across  Vienna 
from  one  railway  station  to  another,  and  it  was 
with  the  utmost  <  .fficulty  that  we  reached  the 
station  befort  the  train  for  Cologne,  and  eventu- 
all)  ff>r  London,  started.  It  was  already  in 
motion,  and  only  by  courtesy  of  the  guard  was 


I 

V 


s  being 
on  high 
berg,  or 
:xaniine 
crowned 
ids,  gar- 
very  at- 

crown, 
he   first 

in    the 

:ted  by 
:  of  the 
11  of  the 
of  the 
t  of  the 
mn  two 
useums 
[  Pesth, 
"  The 
da  and 
her  in 
the  of- 


CONSTANTINOPLE   TO   I^ONDON 


525 


/ienna. 
vondon 

had  to 
V'ienna 

it  was 
ed  the 
;ventn- 
idy  in 
rd  was 


the  door  opened  to  give  us  admittance.  The 
ride  was  bitterly  cold,  especially  to  one  who  was 
dressed  in  the  light  clothing  suitable  for  India 
and  other  tropical  climes,  even  though  wrapped 
'■••  heavy  rugs  ;  it  was  impossible  to  be  comforta- 
bly warm  until  we  reached  railway  coaches  that 
were  artificially  heated. 

Beautiful  was  the  ride  through  Germany,  pass- 
ing one  historic  town  after  another,  Nuremberg 
being  reached  in  the  morning  after  leaving 
Vienna  on  the  previous  evening.  This  was  the 
first  time  that  the  writer  had  the  opportunity  of 
going  along  the  shore  of  the  Rhine  in  the  autumn 
and  seeing  at  that  season  the  vine-clad  hills  and 
the  castles  so  rich  in  historic  memories,  and  so 
weird  in  legendary  talcs.  Two  interesting  trav- 
eling companions,  one  a  Scotchman  from  Glas- 
gow, and  the  other  a  Swede  from  Stockholm, 
gave  additional  zest  to  this  interesting  trip.  At 
five  o'clock  on  Saturday  afternoon  Cologne  was 
reached.  One  could  not  help  feeling  much  at 
home  in  places  formerly  visited,  after  a  journey 
through  so  many  countries  seen  for  the  first 
time.  Here  we  changed  trains  for  the  first 
time  since  leaving  Vienna,  and  having  made 
no  change  between  Constantinople  and  Vienna. 

At  exactly  midnight  we  prepared  to  cross  the 
channel  at  Ostend,  and  a  few  hours  afterward 
we  were  at  Dover.  The  journey  across  the 
channel  was  made  while  sleep  was  so  sound 
that  it  required  considerable  effort  on  the  part 
of  one  of  the  officials  to  break  the  spell  of  slum- 
ber when  Dover  was  reached.     From   Dover  to 


526 


AROUND   THH   WORLD 


'»'*l' 


r  'i  K 


I'M 


London,  the  journey  seemed  as  nothing,  and 
again  the  writer  had  to  be  aroused  at  Cannon 
Street  that  he  might  be  ready  to  leave  the  coach 
when  Charing  Cross  should  be  reached.  At  five 
o'clock  on  Sunday  morning  he  reached  his  room 
in  the  Charing  Cross  Hotel. 

Days  in  London. — If  there  was  a  grateful 
man  in  London,  it  was  this  scribe  as  he  gave 
thanks  to  God  for  journeying  mercies  and  for 
the  opportunity  of  spending  the  Lord's  Day  in  a 
Christian  city,  and  for  the  privilege  of  worship- 
ing in  the  Metropolitan  Tabernacle.  For  some 
weeks  life  had  been,  so  far  as  public  religious 
services  were  concerned,  rather  heathen  than 
Christian.  Never  was  the  appreciation  of  an 
English-speaking,  Protestant,  and  genuinely 
Christian  country  so  great,  as  when  London 
was  reached  that  morning.  One  felt  almost  as 
much  at  home  as  if  he  were  in  New  York.  We 
seldom  appreciate  our  Christian,  national,  and 
linguistic  privileges  until  we  have  been  de- 
prived of  all  of  them  in  whole  or  in  part  for 
consecutive  months. 

It  was  very  pleasant  to  have  the  opportunity 
of  spending  a  few  days  in  London  before  sailing 
for  home.  London  possesses  a  strange  charm 
to  every  one  who  is  familiar  with  its  history 
and  who  spends  considerable  time  within  its 
limits.  London  is  an  overwhelming  city.  It  is 
not  one  city,  but  a  ccngeries  of  cities.  London 
is  in  a  real  sense  the  heart  of  the  financial  and 
commercial  world.     It  is  the  center  of  the  world 


>!; 


CONvSTANTlNOPLK    TO    LONDON 


527 


and 


in  a  variety  of  senses.  One  day  of  this  grimy, 
smoky,  and  altogetlier  dingy  city  is  better  than 
a  week  of  smiling,  bowing,  and  asseverating 
Paris.  With  profound  gratitude  the  pleasure  of 
spending  Sunday  in  this  city  was  contemplated. 

I  hastened  to  the  Metropolitan  Tabernacle. 
To  me  this  church  is  a  mightier  influence  for 
good  and  f^i  God  than  St.  Paul's  or  Westminster 
Abbey.  The  ever-honored  Charles  H.  Spurgeon 
made  the  Tabernacle  the  center  of  influences 
which  reached  to  the  ends  of  the  earth.  This 
building  will  ever  be  sacred,  because  of  its  mani- 
fold associations.  I  thought  of  the  time,  about 
twenty  years  ago,  when  first  I  saw  and  heard  its 
great  pastor  in  its  pulpit.  Now  I  looked  for- 
ward with  gratitude  to  the  opportunity  of  hear- 
ing Pastor  Thomas  Spurgeon  on  this  particular 
Lord's  Day.  In  his  success  as  the  successor  of 
his  father,  thousands  of  Christians  of  all  denom- 
inations on  both  sides  of  the  Atlantic  feel  a  pro- 
found and  prayerful  interest. 

London,  on  this  last  Sunday  in  October,  was 
peculiarly  gloomy,  smoky,  and  chilly.  Soon, 
however,  Pastor  Thomas  came  into  his  fctther's 
old  reception  room  with  words,  face,  and  hand  of 
welcome.  A  little  Ir.ter  we  were  in  the  great  au- 
ditorium. The  people  were  pouring  in  at  all  the 
doors.  WouM  it  be  possible  on  this  Sunday 
morning  to  fill  the  great  church  ?  The  people 
were  answering  that  question  in  the  affirmative. 
One  is  constantly  reminded  as  the  honored  son 
reads  and  expounds  the  Scripture,  and  as  he 
leads  the  great  congregation  in   prayer,  of  the 


w 


5^8 


AROUND   TIIK    VVOKI.D 


^  :• 


A 


'    't 


beloved  and  now  sainted  father.  The  sermon 
was  on  tlie  words  of  Christ  to  his  parents, 
"  Wist  ye  not  that  I  must  be  about  my  Father's 
business?"  It  was  a  warm-hearted  discourse. 
It  did  my  soul  good  to  participate  in  this  serv- 
ice. At  its  close  many  hearty  introductions 
and  cordial  welcomes  were  given  to  the  visiting 
brother. 

I  had  the  opportunity  of  attending  the  pleas- 
ant Sunday  afternoon  service  in  Rev.  F.  B. 
Meyer's  church.  This  is  a  unique  service.  An 
audience  of  the  better  class  of  workingmen  about 
half  filled  the  church.  The  exercises  were  hearty, 
the  addresses  brief,  pointed,  and  practical.  The 
most  earnest  vspiritual  appeals  were  made  by  Mr. 
Meyer  and  others,  and  they,  as  well  as  the  solos 
that  were  sung  and  certain  patriotic  resolutions 
which  were  offered,  were  all  heartily  cheered. 
One  was  somewhat  shocked  at  the  absence  of 
what  is  usually  considered  to  be  the  appropriate 
decorum  of  a  religious  service  in  a  church  on 
the  Lord's  Day  ;  but  further  consideration  of  the 
object  of  this  service,  as  well  as  its  dominant 
spirit,  modified  any  unfavorable  criticism  which 
at  the  first  one  might  be  disposed  to  make.  The 
whole  purpose  of  the  occasion  was  religious,  and 
the  men  were  deeply  in  earnest. 

The  evening  service  at  the  Tabernacle  was 
stimulating  and  helpful.  F'^or  several  evenings 
during  the  week  the  writer  had  the  opportunity 
of  delivering  addresses  at  the  various  services 
which  were  held.  On  one  evening  there  was  a 
report  of  the  workers  in  one  department,  and  on 


£  scrniou 
parents, 
Father's 
liscourse. 
Lliis  serv- 
Dcluctioiis 
I  visiting 

he  pleas- 
V.  F.  B. 
ice.  An 
len  about 
e  hearty, 
al.  The 
e  by  Mr. 
tlie  solos 
solutions 
cheered, 
sence  of 
^ropriate 
urcli  on 
3n  of  the 
ominant 
n  which 
e.  The 
ous,  and 

acle  was 
ivenin^s 
ortunity 
services 
re  was  a 
and  on 


COXSTANTINOPLK   TO   LONDON 


529 

Other  evenings  reports  of  workers  hi  other  de- 
partments o    the  manifold  services  winch    tlis 
grea     ehurch   is  so  successfully  rendering      A 
all  these  services  the  presence  of  Pastor  Thomas 

sSZ  ^^^^-^^-»'   enthusiasm,  a^^Z 
spiiation.     He  has  enormous  burdens  to  carrv 
bu    he  IS  carrying  them  with  a  brave  heart   and' 
a  strong  faith.     He  has  a  great  place  to  fi    '  a 
lie  IS  filling  It  with  humble  reliance  upon  Go 
witli  earnest  personal  work,  and  in  the  en  o 
ment  of  the  love  and  support  of  the  great  nm" 
Jon  y  of  the  members  of  {his  historie  chureh 

No  man  could  succeed  so  great  a  preacher  and 
pastor  as  was   his  father  without  having  soie 
defections  and  criticisms.     Many  eonsidLtk^  s 
with  which  the  world  is  familiar  tended  trcon 
plicate  the  relation  of  the  church  to  the  paste  " 
but  happily  all  these  complieations  are  pass^iJ 
away.     Pastor  Thomas  Spurgeon  is  a  g  ow  .^^ 
man,    growing   intellectually:   spiritualh      n   d 
practically.     His  whole  spirit  is^ln^r    he 
fluence  of  the  Spirit  of   God,  and  his  p  esence 

SrZf  Tr^'  ^''''''  "^  ^^^^^^«  asimilar   pi  -t 

11  their  re  ation  to  one  another  and  to  all  the 

work  of  the  church.     He   is   a   man    of    mo  t 

ire"ff'rod'""-^'^'^'"^P^^^^-     "^  -alizesh 
leed  of  God's  presence  in  his  work,  and  that 

presence   is   constantly  enjoyed.      A  read v      'e 

crisis  in  the  history  of  this  church  has  pLld 

The  future  is  assured.     There  will  be  hard  'vovh 

bTefsinJ  iTc  TV'  '^  P^^^^--^  "-^'^  e 
wifl  t  ^^'"""^  "^'^  ^'°^"  ^^''^  sanctified  labor 
with  abundant  success.     Pastor  Thomas  Spur- 

21 


it 


530 


AROUND   TIIK   \VORI,n 


I'f 


]\' 


1*    t< 


f:|.'ll-' 


linif; 


g:eon  lias  a  lar^e  and  warm  place  in  the  hearts 
of  his  brclhreu  of  all  denominations  throughout 
the  world. 

A  visit  was  made  to  the  vStockwcll  Orphanajre, 
founded  by  Charles  H.  vSpurgeon.  This  insti- 
tution is  a  home  and  school  for  hundreds  of 
fatherless  boys  and  pi^irls.  It  has  often  been 
described  by  visitors  who  have  desired  to  see  the 
varied  forms  of  work  founded  and  carried  on  by 
the  late  Mr.  Spurgeon.  This  institution  is  a 
monument  to  his  practical  wisdom,  his  Christian 
love,  and  his  varied  forms  of  devotion  to  the 
cause  of  God  and  man.  Rev.  Vernon  1.  Charles- 
worth  is  the  head-master.  Pastor  Tliomas  vSpur- 
geon  is  now  vigorously  engaged  in  tlie  work  of 
the  Orphanage,  as  in  all  the  other  forms  of 
work  connected  with  the  great  church.  It 
would  be  easy  ^  write  many  paragraphs  de- 
scribing the  origin,  history,  and  position  of  the 
Stockwell  Orphanage.  It  is  doing  a  work  on 
which  the  blessing  of  (xod  constantly  rests. 

The  greater  part  of  a  day  vvas  spent  in  visit- 
ing the  cemetery  where  the  great  hero  and  worn 
warrior,  Charles  H.  Spurgeon,  sleeps  after  his 
years  of  service  and  self-sacrifice.  His  monu- 
ment could  not  be  more  appropriate  in  material 
or  in  form.  The  gray  granite  seems  to  be  sym- 
bolic of  his  own  firm  spirit,  unwavering  rer.olve, 
and  enduring  character.  In  form  it  is  some- 
what suggestive  of  the  Metropolitan  Tabernacle. 
Its  plainness,  majesty,  and  tastefulness  are  all  in 
perfect  keeping  with  tlie  character,  life,  work, 
and  fame  of  the  great  man  whose  dust  it  covers. 


|[ 


CONSTANTINOPLK   TO    LONDON 


531 


t  hearts 
jugliont 

iluuiapi^e, 
is  iiisti- 
Ireds  of 
Ml  l)een 
)  see  the 
:d  oil  by 
on  is  a 
christian 
1  to  the 
Charles- 
as  Spur- 
work  of 
onus  of 
ch.  It 
iphs  de- 
ll of  the 
vork  on 
ts. 

in  visit- 
id  worn 
fter  his 

monu- 
naterial 
be  sym- 
rcr.olve, 
i  sonie- 

rnacle. 

e  all  in 
work, 

covers. 


Tender  inciiiories  will  ever  gather  about  that 
tomb,  and  also  about  the  home  in  Westwood,  vis- 
ited the  same  afternoon.  The  love  of  Mrs.  Spur- 
geoii  for  her  home,  her  work,  her  sainted  hus!)and, 
and  her  noble  sons,  no  words  can  adequately 
describe  ;  ^  ut  above  all  earthly  loves,  is  her  love 
to  Christ,  which  constrains  her  in  all  her  .service 
for  the  cause  of  Ciod.  No  words  of  description 
may  be  allowed  to  intrude  unduly  uj)on  the 
.sanctities  of  that  home,  that  study,  and  this  be- 
reaved heart.  The  home  .seemed  vocal  with  the 
memories  of  the  great  preacher,  pastor,  writer, 
and  worker;  and  it  .seemed  radiant  with  the 
glories  of  his  and  our  divine  Master. 

Every  evening  during  this  week  there  was  a 
service  of  some  form  in  connection  with  the 
Tabernacle,  in  all  of  which  this  writer  with 
great  enjoyment  participated.  On  Friday  after- 
noon he  had  the  pleasure  of  meeting  and  ad- 
dressing the  .students  of  the  Pastor's  College. 
The  heartiness,  responsiveness,  and  consecration 
of  these  students,  were  notable.  This  was  his 
last  night  in  London.  The  weather  was  for 
much  of  the  week  wet,  and  for  all  of  the  week 
cold.  A  glowing  grate  fire  was  a  welcome  ad- 
junct to  one's  room. 

Conclusion. — On  Saturday,  the  26th  of  Oc- 
tober, the  journey  homeward  was  begun  from 
Southampton  on  the  .steamer  "  Berlin,"  the  "vSt. 
Louis  "  having  been  so  disabled  that  it  could  not 
make  its  return  passage  on  the  appointed  day. 
The  journey  homeward,  although  thus  late  in 


532 


AROUND  THK   WORM) 


i'<     ■■■!: 

4  1    -•    • 


the  season,  was  exlrcinely  pleasant.  It  was  an 
equal  surprise  and  pleasure  to  find  on  hoard 
the  Hon.  Charles  A.  Boutelle,  with  whom  an 
ac(inaintance  was  hegun  in  Washington,  and 
which  has  been  continued  for  many  years  ;  and 
also  Major  Preston,  of  Hartford,  whose  success- 
ful business  career  is  equaled  by  his  constant 
devotion  to  Christian  work. 

Joyous  was  the  return  to  New  York  on  the 
fourth  of  November  at  9  o'clock  in  the  morn- 
ing. With  a  gratitude  which  no  words  can 
describe,  the  greetings  of  family  and  church 
friends  were  received.  The  time  taken  in  this 
trip  around  the  world  was  just  five  months  to 
a  day.  During  that  time  a  distance  of  about 
thirty-five  thousand  miles  was  traveled.  There 
was  not  one  moment's  sickness,  not  one  serious 
miscalculation  in  plans,  nor  disappointment  in 
carrying  out  those  plans.  pA'ery  moment  was 
marked  by  tokens  of  Divine  blessing  and  by 
manifold  experiences  of  pleasure  and  profit. 

The  world  was  never  so  large  as  now,  nor  so 
small.  We  are  learning  as  never  before  that  the 
interests  of  one  country  are  the  interests  of  all 
countries,  and  that  no  man  can  be  indifferent  to 
the  welfare  of  his  fellow-men  in  any  part  of  the 
world.  A  man  to-day,  and  especially  an  Ameri- 
can, ought  to  be  cosmopolitan  in  sympathy,  in 
knowledge,  and  in  desire.  Still  it  will  ever  be 
true  that, 

The  patriot's  boast,  where'er  we  roam, 
His  first,  best  country,  ever  is  at  home. 


M 


■  \ 


It  was  an 
oil  Ijoanl 
whom  an 
^ton,  and 
ears  ;  and 
e  success- 
constant 

rk  on  tlie 
lie  niorn- 
.'ords  can 
^1  clmrcli 
n  in  tliis 
lontlis  to 
of  about 
.  There 
le  serious 
tment  in 
nent  was 
I  and  by 
rofit. 

w,  nor  so 
:  that  tlie 
its  of  all 
Terent  to 
rt  of  the 
1  Aineri- 
)athy,  in 
[  ever  be 


